Color 6 clarity 6. What is diamond clarity and color? How to determine the clarity of a stone

Despite the apparent complexity, diamond grading is largely unified. There is a system of price lists that determine the approximate cost of stones. It is common in the world to describe the characteristics of diamonds by taking into account the four characteristics of the stones: Color, Clarity, Carat and Cut.

The classification of diamonds based on these characteristics is called "4C".

Diamond color

Although diamonds are mostly colorless in color, some have pale yellow, yellow or brown shades of varying intensity. Diamonds that are absolutely transparent without flaws are said to be of "pure water". Such stones, when they do not have any color shade other than bluish, are valued most highly. Diamonds with a faint yellowish tint are called "impure water" stones and are much less valuable.

Canary yellow diamonds have a certain appeal. Greenish stones are also common, although a really good shade of this color is rarely kept within the whole crystal. Brown stones are not uncommon, especially from South Africa. Pink stones are less common, while ruby ​​red, mauve, and blue stones are rare. Stones with the last of the listed colors, as a rule, have a "steel" shade. Sapphire blue diamonds are extremely rare and very expensive.

A number of terms have been used to describe the color of diamonds, such as "yager", "river", "wesselton" and "cape", many of these terms are derived from the names of South African deposits. About half a century ago, these "old terms" were largely supplanted by purely descriptive definitions, such as "bluish white", "pure white", "light yellow". However, the term "bluish white" was deemed meaningless and discouraged. German jewelers used a numerical classification of colors from the first to the sixth color. To facilitate the procedure for determining the color of stones, a device was invented that made it possible to directly compare the color of diamonds with standard colors.

In Russia, color characteristics are usually denoted by numbers. Depending on the weight of the diamond, the range of the color characteristic scale is different. So, diamonds with 57 facets and weighing up to 0.29 carats have colors from 1 to 7 groups. Diamonds of the same cut from 0.3 carats and above are divided by color shades into 9 groups:

Group number	Decryption
Group 1	colorless higher, and also with a shade of blue
Group 2	colorless
Group 3	with a subtle shade
Group 4	with a slight shade of yellow
Group 5	with slight yellowish, greenish, aquamarine, purple and gray shades
Group 6	with visible yellow, green, aquamarine, gray and slight brown tints
Group 7	with clearly visible yellow, green, lemon, aquamarine, and gray shades
Group 8	yellow (with yellow, green, lemon color in the whole diamond)
Group 9	brown or yellow-brown

Different designations for the color of diamonds are adopted abroad. "Diamond World" provides a summary table of standards for assessing the color of stones in different countries. The most common of these is the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) color scale.

G.l.A.	C.I.B.J.O.	I.D.C./H.R.D.	U.K.	SCAN.D.N. (up to 0.5 ct)	SCAN.D.N. (0.5 ct and above)
D	Blanc cxeptionnel +	Exeptional white +	Finest white	Rarest white	River
E	Blanc cxeptionnel	Exeptional white
F	Extra blanc +	Rare white +	Fine white	Rare white	Top wesscllon
G	Extra blanc	Rare white
H	Blanc	White	White	White	Wesselton
I	Blanc nuance	Slightly tinted white	Commercial white	Slightly tinted white	Top crystal
J			Top silver Cape		Crystal
K	Blanc legerement teinte	Tinted white	Silver Cape	Tinted white	Top Cape
L
M	Teinte	Tinted	Light cape	Slightly yellowish	Cape
N
O			Cape	Yellowish
P
Q
R
S-Z			Dark cape

Clarity of diamonds

Almost all diamonds contain inclusions of non-crystallized carbon or small foreign crystals. Most of them are invisible to the naked eye and require multiple magnifications to detect them. The fewer such inclusions in the stone, the cleaner and more valuable the diamond. In other words, the term "clarity" is used to define the flawlessness of the purchased diamond. According to the degree of their clarity, diamonds are subdivided into several groups. Diamonds are distinguished from pure, through various gradations of imperfect, to the so-called "pique", which contain inclusions that are visible to the naked eye.

In Russia, the characteristics of the quality of diamonds, as well as the characteristics of color, are usually denoted by numbers. Diamonds with 57 facets weighing up to 0.3 carats are numbered from 1 to 9. Diamonds of the same cut from 0.3 carats and above are divided into 12 groups.

As with color, different countries have different standards for evaluating diamond clarity.

Table of international standards.

G.I.A.	C.I.B.J.O.	SCAN.D.N.
Flawless	Flawless	Flawless
IF	-	IF
VVS1 VVS2	VVS1 VVS2	VVS1 VVS2
VS1 VS2	VS1 VS2	VS1 VS2
SI1 SI2	SI	SI1 SI2
I1	P1	P1
I2	P2	P2
I3	P3	P3

Weight of diamonds

When evaluating large diamonds, clarity and color are important. Small stones, on the other hand, are rated by weight, not by their individual qualities. In general, the weight of stones plays a major role in determining the value of diamonds.

The unit for measuring the mass of diamonds and brilliants is the carat. The word "carat" itself comes from the name of the seeds of the Caribbean tree, which in ancient times served as a natural measure of the weight of diamonds. One carat is 0.2 grams. The carat division scale consists of 100 units.

Small diamonds are considered to have a mass of up to 0.29 carats, medium - from 0.3 to 0.99 carats, and large ("solitaires") - 1 carat or more. Diamonds weighing more than 6 carats are usually sold at auctions.

Small diamonds of various sizes, made either by cutting a small rough diamond or by cutting portions of a larger gem cut and weighing less than 0.25 carats individually, are called melee. The term melange is used to refer to larger stones of various sizes.

Diamonds are evaluated according to the so-called "Tavernier rule": the cost of a stone is equal to the product of the square of the mass (weight) of the crystal in carats by the base price of one carat. So, a 2-carat diamond is 3 times more expensive than a one-carat diamond, and 3 carats is 10 times more expensive. This "progression" grows up to 5 carats. A 10-carat diamond is estimated to be 100 times more expensive than a single-carat diamond. Diamonds over 25 carats are given their own names.

The weight of diamonds is measured with an accuracy of 0.01 carats. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams or 1/5 gram. The mass of diamonds is measured on special carat scales, and approximately it can be determined by the diameter of the stone:

• Weight 0.03 ct = diameter 2.0 mm;
• Weight 0.10 ct = diameter 3.0 mm;
• Weight 0.30 ct = diameter 4.3 mm;
• Weight 1.00 ct = 6.5 mm diameter;
• Weight 1.50 ct = diameter 7.5 mm;
• Weight 2.00 ct = diameter 8.2 mm;
• Weight 3.00 ct = diameter 9.4 mm.

Cut diamonds

The most popular and most expensive round-cut diamonds are K-57. These diamonds have the brightest game of all cuts. With strict observance of the proportions, a round diamond is able to reflect almost all the light that falls on it.

Fancy cut forms - marquis, princess, heart, pear and others, have a special peculiar appeal and look great in jewelry.

Diamond elements

Top view of a diamond

Bottom view of a diamond

Diamond cut shapes

Diamond color

Diamonds vary in color from colorless to yellow. To correctly determine the color, the diamond is compared with the standards and the corresponding index is assigned to it on the color scale. Other colors - fancy (orange, pink, blue and others), are quite rare.

In accordance with the international system G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America) color gradations are characterized by letter designations from D to Z, according to the domestic scale - by numbers from 1 (colorless) to 9 (brown).

Diamonds Color Scale Ratio Chart

THAT up to 0.29 ct	1		2	3		4		5	6	7
THAT from 0.30 ct	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8 (1-5)	6 (1), 9 (1-4)
GIA	D	E	F	G	H	I	J	K-Z

Clarity of diamonds

Diamonds, like most other minerals, are characterized by natural inclusions and defects.

In order to establish the degree of clarity of a diamond, it is necessary to determine the number and nature of defects, as well as their size and location. The examination is carried out at 10x magnification using a magnifying glass or a special microscope.

The ratio of the diamond clarity scales

THAT up to 0.29 ct	1	2	3		4	5			6		7	8	9
THAT from 0.30 ct	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	7a	8	9	10	11	12
GIA	IF		VVS1	VVS2	VS1	VS2	SI1	SI2	SI3	I1	I2	I3

• 1 - clean
• 2-3, 3-4 - very small inclusions
• 5-6 - very small minor inclusions
• 7-8 - small noticeable inclusions
• 9-10, 11, 12 - inclusions visible to the naked eye

Diamond certificate

Diamond certification is widely used all over the world. The most famous certification centers are C.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America), E.G.L. (European Gemological Laboratory), I.G.I. (International Gemological Institute).

The certificate is issued on the basis of an independent expert assessment. The gemological laboratory that issued this certificate guarantees the accuracy and reliability of the information it contains.

A certificate is a kind of diamond passport, which indicates its individual characteristics: shape, size, proportions, weight, color, clarity, cut and polish quality.

According to Russian law, all loose diamonds sold to retail must be certified.

"Girls' best friends are diamonds," says the famous song. And each friend needs to be known, as they say, to the depths of the soul. Diamonds are no exception. How to understand the world of jewelry terms and choose the right stone? What to look for when making such a meaningful purchase? Let's try to figure it out.

Why diamonds are valued

Everyone knows that a diamond is a cut diamond. And the fact that nature creates not so many of these stones is also a well-known fact. And even the fact that diamond is the hardest known mineral is also nothing new. So what is the most important characteristic of diamonds?

And what attracts jewelers to a diamond? There is only one answer - shine. The very name of the stone is translated from French as "brilliant". When light is reflected in a diamond, it shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow. Diamonds reflect best of all It is in the light of lamps that the brightness and playfulness of the stone are manifested in all their glory. By the way, this is one of the reasons why wearing diamond jewelry before 5 pm is considered not entirely decent.

Profitable investment

Now the fashion for wearing diamonds "everywhere and always" has passed. Buying a diamond ring is seen more as an investment than a definition of status in society. Compared to other gemstones, diamonds do not age over time. They are afraid of being hit directly by a hammer or stone. All other external factors are insignificant for them. And from the point of view of investment, it is necessary to study how and how diamonds differ from each other. And what characteristic of diamonds is preferable in different cases.

Assessment according to the 4C system

There are not many diamond mining countries in the world. And they are located in different parts of the world. But there are many more buyers. And everyone wants to buy, if not the most beautiful, then the most "correct" stone. The world practice of evaluating diamonds has developed long ago and is based on the fact that the characteristics of diamonds are described by four indicators: weight, color, clarity (transparency) and cut. Until the stone has been cut, it is just a diamond. No play of light and jewelry significance. Only properly and professionally cut stone is able to refract light and sparkle. And be called a diamond. Actually, the 4C system got its name from the first letters of the words of the English language, which characterize the class of the stone: carat (mass), color (color), clarity (purity), cut (cut).

Diamond weight

Weight, as with all gemstones, is measured in carats. 1 carat is 0.2 grams. This is how much 1 grain of a carat tree weighed, which has been used since ancient times as a reference measure of weight for jewelry. The modern carat is divided into 100 parts. Because the weight (and size) allows a diamond to be classified into one of the groups: small (up to 0.29 carats), medium (from 0.3 to 0.99 carats) and large, or solitaire (more

Which exceeds 6 carats, is destined to be sold only at a closed auction. Of course, other characteristics are still important here, but already one weight is enough for the cost of such a giant to be transcendental. Therefore, those wishing to purchase prefer to do it behind the scenes.

Small stones are rated by diameter, not weight. But for large and medium stones, it is a mistake to believe that the larger, the heavier the diamond. The characteristic of the stone sometimes allows you to make a unique cut, which, with a large diameter, will give a relatively low weight.

Defectiveness of diamonds

Of course, you always want to buy the best. But in life we ​​are guided by the rule: to choose the optimal price-quality ratio. And diamonds are no exception. There are very few absolutely pure stones in nature. And, accordingly, they are very expensive.

Diamonds with inclusions of carbon and foreign crystals are most often found in nature. Specimens with internal cracks are very rare. On the one hand, it is impossible to see all this with the naked eye. But on the other hand, when you buy a diamond that does not shimmer in the light (or is very dull), and even more so when you invest in stones, you want the characteristics of diamonds to be worthy.

There are several standards by which the quality of diamonds is judged. For example, the scale according to which all stones are divided into categories depending on the quantity and quality of inclusions, according to the Russian standard, consists of 12 groups, where the 1st group is the purest diamonds, and the 12th is "dirty". In fact, only starting from the 9th group can the inclusions be seen without a microscope. And before that, you need at least tenfold magnification under a microscope to detect stone defects.

This is probably why the American clarity of a diamond, which has a scale of 9 groups, does not treat the purest stones and stones with subtle inclusions differently. They belong to the same category.

Diamond color

Of course, the most popular are white diamonds. But just like absolutely pure stones, there are few of them. Most often, in jewelry we are offered yellowish diamonds. But it is impossible to determine this by eye - human vision does not perceive such a subtle difference.

In nature, diamonds of different colors are found - from white to black. Until recently, the concept was not applied at all, and such stones were not used in jewelry. They were literally considered trash. But fancy yellow and blue diamonds are another matter entirely. When framed in an interesting way, they can become a real decoration of the collection.

In general, the concept of diamond color is very complex. The Russian standard uses terms such as "subtle", "bloom", "barely noticeable", etc. That is, the assessment of the color of the stone can be very subjective. Nevertheless, this characteristic of diamonds (a table that will help to understand the ratio of different standards should be in every store) plays an important role in determining the price. Up to the eighth color group, diamonds are considered white with various shades. Starting from the 8th, the color is defined as yellow. But here, too, there are 3 subgroups.

Cut

Cutting a diamond is a very tricky business. The quality of the cut can be described by three characteristics: symmetry, proportionality and polish. It is by these parameters, according to the American standard, that any diamond can be evaluated. In the Russian system, in terms of cut quality, a stone can be assigned to one of the groups from A to G. Diamonds whose cut does not fit into the parameters specified for these groups are not subject to TU assessment.

Besides the quality of the cut, there is also the shape. This is something that can be judged by the simplest principle: like it or not like it. The round shape of the cutting of stones is considered classical (it is sometimes called Russian). Oval, marquis, emerald, drop - all these are options for cutting diamonds.

How to choose a diamond

The price of a diamond is made up of the ratio of all four quality indicators. To ask for a diamond marked 1/1 in the store (the first class of class in color and clarity) means to prove yourself not just an ignoramus, but also a pompous snob. It is also indecent to demand that the 2/2 characteristic of diamonds be. Most often, diamonds with color parameters 3-5 and clarity 3-6 go on sale.

From the point of view of capital investment, when choosing a diamond, it is better to yield in color than in clarity. Because various inclusions change the refractive power of the stone, which means that the diamond does not play in the light. In addition, many defects can cause a diamond to split if dropped. It will not be just a shame here.

When choosing diamonds, pay attention to how the stone is hidden in the setting. The more the setting or its elements hide the facets of the diamond, the more likely it is that a low-quality stone is used in the product.

Each diamond has a tag. All the parameters are indicated on it: shape, number of faces, weight, color, clarity, cut group. It looks like this: 1 Cr57 - 0.43 - 4 / 3A. The first number indicates the number of diamonds in the piece.

Diamonds of different clarity

As already noted, diamonds of different quality are on sale. The most common are 3/5, 4/5, 6/6. What are the characteristics of 3/5 diamonds, and how do they fundamentally differ from 2/2 diamonds, for example? Everything in order.

High grade diamonds

In nature, these stones (with a 2/2 characteristic) are as few as absolutely pure. But according to the standards, several light points are acceptable in diamonds of the 2nd clarity group. Several are no more than two. And it is impossible to see them from the side of the site with the naked eye. If the stone is marked 2/2 in the store, you need to check its certificate, and you need a GIA (American Gemmological Institute) certificate.

The most popular diamonds are round, with a color and clarity of 4. The gemological characteristic of 4/4 diamonds makes these stones a safe investment. The price for them never falls and gives a steady increase. In addition, it is these indicators of defectiveness and color that are beyond doubt.

So what is a 4 clarity diamond? Such a diamond can have 2 minor blotches in the central part or 2-4 small defects in the rest of the parts. Moreover, all this can be considered only with multiple magnification.

By the way, diamonds with a defectiveness of 5 may already turn out to be much cheaper than representatives of the 4th group. This is due to the fact that on small (up to 0.29 carats) stones, defects of the 5th category can already be seen without a microscope. But on large stones, inclusions are still not visible to the naked eye. The characteristics of 4/5 diamonds mean that there is a small “cloud”, crack or 5-6 tiny lines in the middle of the stone. If the inclusions are on other surfaces of the stone, then a small crack is allowed.

Large Medium Stone

If a mid-range buyer wants the largest diamond, then grade 6 clarity should be considered. The larger the stone, the more the inclusions are dispersed in it. Again, they can only be seen at multiple magnifications. But the cost of such diamonds is significantly less than their purer "counterparts". Characteristics of 6/6 diamonds: 8 light dots or a small dissemination of graphite are scattered over the entire area; up to 5 dark points are permissible.

It is believed that the size of the stone on the bride's finger determines the degree to which the groom falls in love with her. Since in natural light, the defects of stones of the 6th group are indistinguishable, you need to choose a ring with just such a stone - large and beautiful.

The characteristics of diamonds (the table clearly illustrates this) significantly affects their value. The table shows the dollar price of medium and large diamonds.

Before you buy a tiny, but purest diamond, think about it: it might be worth lowering the quality criteria, but increasing the size.

Diamond color is one of its most characteristic features. As you know, visible white light is a mixture of rainbow colors from red to orange, yellow, yellow-green, green, blue-green to blue. Separate components of visible light are absorbed inside the diamond - this is caused either by the presence of various trace elements or by the peculiarity of the structure of the diamond. The non-absorbed parts of the light form the visible color of the diamond. Conversely, if all light components are absorbed evenly, the diamond appears colorless.

Different color diamonds

An important diamond color feature the color is relatively weak in saturation. Most diamonds used in jewelry are pale in color tones and shades and appear colorless to most. An untrained human eye will not distinguish diamonds adjacent to the color table, but colored diamonds are unlikely to leave anyone indifferent.

The photo shows 8 loose diamonds from the side of the pavilion. It is impossible to look at a diamond from this side when the diamond is set in a frame, but the difference in color is clearly visible when viewing diamonds from the pavilion side. The first diamond on the left is colorless (color group 1), and the rightmost one has a slightly noticeable shade - its color designation according to the Russian classification system 8.2. Some diamonds with a yellow tint are preferred over colorless ones because such "sun stones" have a warm shade of color. In the catalog of certified diamonds, you can select large diamonds with a color group from 1 to 8.2 and small diamonds with a color from 1 to 5.

Diamonds color table according to the classification of diamonds GOST R 52913-2008 * for diamonds weighing from 0.30 carats

	Diamond color
Colorless higher, also with a bluish tinge
Colorless diamonds
With a subtle shade of diamonds
Diamonds with a slight yellowish, lilac and gray, as well as a slight brown tint
Diamonds with visible yellow and gray tint
Diamonds with visible brown tint
Clearly visible yellow, lemon and gray diamonds
Very faintly colored yellow diamonds
In the presented diamonds weighing from 0.30 carats with a range of colors from 1 to 8.1.
Faintly colored yellow diamonds
Lightly colored yellow diamonds
Light yellow diamonds
Yellow diamonds
Lightly colored brown diamonds
Lightly colored brown diamonds
Brown diamonds
Dark brown, black diamonds

Table of the color of diamonds according to the classification of diamonds GOST R 52913-2008 * for diamonds weighing up to 0.29 carats

Characteristics of diamond color groups	Diamond color
Colorless supreme, colorless diamonds
Slightly tinted diamonds
Diamonds with a slight yellowish, lilac, gray and subtle brown shade
V catalog of certified diamonds Diamond Expert presents diamonds weighing up to 0.299 carats with a range of colors from 1 to 3.
Diamonds with clearly visible yellow, lemon, gray and subtle brown shades
Yellow - with yellow, lemon color throughout the diamond, as well as yellow diamonds with a slight brown tint
With a visible brown tint and gray diamonds
Brown and tan, black diamonds

* Classification of diamonds by color groups is valid from 01.01.2009

The simplest way to assess the color of a diamond requires appropriately folded white paper, reference diamonds, and a northern sky (northern light) daylight source. Diamonds are placed on the paper in a row near the center fold, with a pad down to compare the color and color shades, while there should be no darkening, and the light should be diffused to exclude reflections and brilliance of the diamonds that interfere with color assessment. The gaze should be directed perpendicular to the surface of the diamond. In this position, one can very quickly recognize the subtle color shades of each of the diamonds with a brief, focused viewing. In the process of evaluating the color of a diamond, you need to change the position of the paper relative to the light source. Also, to evaluate the diamond's own color, one should breathe on the stone - light color shades are most clearly visible when the plaque from breathing begins to evaporate from the surface of the diamond.

Features of evaluating diamond color: fluorescence

Some diamonds exhibit the property of fluorescence in light blue, even light green, yellow or reddish light. The fluorescence of a diamond is caused by saturated exposure to ultraviolet rays. In most diamonds, fluorescence is so weak that it can be neglected when evaluating color. In the rarest of cases, fluorescence is caused by ordinary daylight enriched with ultraviolet rays.

Diamonds under ultraviolet light

Characteristics of diamonds to look out for first

Usually, independent certification of stones in many cities of the world is carried out by special gemological certification centers and private gemologists. But, no matter how you trust the experts, additional knowledge will not hurt you when choosing diamonds. Of course, without substantial practice, it is unlikely that it will be possible to see all the subtleties of the purchased stone, but, nevertheless, you will not get lost in all these letters-numbers after reading the basic information.

So, the value of a cut diamond is influenced by four main characteristics, which add up to system "4C"... This diamond grading system includes the following concepts: "carat" (ct, k) - weight, "color" - color, "clarity" - clarity and "cut" - cut. From the combination of these characteristics, the price of the stone is formed.

Estimating the value of a diamond.

There are quite a few subtleties in this process, but in general terms, we can say that the cost of diamonds with other similar characteristics always increases exponentially with increasing weight of the stone. The smaller the number (or closer to the beginning of the alphabet a letter) that characterizes the color and clarity of the diamond, the more expensive it is. The quality, appearance and proportion of the cut are also important when evaluating. Fancy diamonds are rated on a special scale. Further - the nuances of the characteristics:

Carat (weight).

It is impractical to measure the weight of a diamond in grams. In nature (and on sale), cut diamonds weighing even in the region of 1 gram (5 carats) are extremely rare and very expensive, and there are much more small and medium stones (up to 0.2 grams, which exactly correspond to 1 k). Therefore, since antiquity, a constant value for measuring the weight of a diamond has been adopted, which is based on the weight of 1 seed of the Caribbean tree "carat", equivalent to 0.2 grams.

For convenience, all stones weighing up to 0.29 carats are considered to be small, over 0.3 and up to 0.99 carats - medium, and more than 1 carat - large. By the way, the term "solitaire" refers exclusively to large diamonds. And proper names ("Korloff Noir" - 88 ct, "Great Mogul" - 279 ct, "Orlov" - 190 ct, etc.) are given to cut diamonds weighing more than 25 carats. A diamond weighing less than 1/100 (0.01) carat is not specified and is considered a diamond grit.

Transitional masses of diamonds.

Although with an increase in the mass of a stone, its cost increases, this process is uneven (jumpwise). A sharp jump in prices occurs at certain values ​​(0.3 ct, 0.5 ct, 1 ct 1.5 ct, 2 ct, etc.), which are called "transitional masses of diamonds". Knowing this pattern will allow the buyer to save money by purchasing, say, a stone of 0.48 ct, and not 0.5 ct - the difference in weight (and visually) is negligible, but in price it is very significant.

Color.

Often the average person sees the color of a diamond as “steel”, “white”, “transparent”. For a specialist, all the nuances of colors and shades are important - from this, the price of a stone can rise and fall with a huge difference. An important condition for determining the color of a diamond is a 10-fold increase and comparison with the standard by the matching method, since the difference between the "neighboring" colors is very arbitrary. It is even more difficult to determine the color of a stone in a product - for certification, its removal is required.

The color of a cut diamond can range from very rare, virtually colorless ("pure water"), along a grayish and yellowish scale, and up to brownish.

A separate type is fancy ("Fancy") diamonds, which have clear saturated shades - black, brown, green, pink, blue (the most unique are bright red and blue). They are extremely rare and are rated on a different scale; they are often fabulously expensive, eclipsing "white" diamonds. It is important here to tell the difference between a unique fancy diamond and its cheap dark-colored cousin.

Different countries use different color scales for diamonds, but they are easily comparable and have similar criteria.

A system for evaluating the color of diamonds in Russia.

In domestic jewelry practice, the weight of the stone is important, therefore, three scales are used:

• for 17-facet cut diamonds, the number of colors is divided into 4 groups;


• for 57-facet cut diamonds from the “small” group (up to 0.29 ct), the number of colors varies from 1 to 7;


• for all other diamonds of 57-facet cut (from 0.3 ct), a different scale is applied, implying 9 groups of colors.

International Diamond Color Grading System .

The international system (GIA) differs from the domestic one by the absence of separation of color scales by weight category of stone.

All color values ​​for "white" diamonds are in the range of letters from D to Z, where the price falls as the letter range increases to the right (and the color "darkens").

Fantasy colors of diamonds are assessed according to a special scale of color standards, where, on the contrary, the darker, richer the shade, the more expensive the stone.

Clarity

The quality and, accordingly, the price of a diamond is also influenced by the presence (absence) of inclusions of natural origin inside the stone, such as bubbles, turbidity, cracks, inclusions, etc. This is a completely natural phenomenon for the mineral, but that is why a large number of diamonds are of very low cost. And only a small part of the extracted raw materials is turned into high quality diamonds.

As with the determination of color, a 10x magnification is used to establish the imperfection of the stone. The degree of visibility of these inclusions through a magnifying glass, as well as by the "naked eye", is the criterion for the clarity of a diamond.

Domestic system for evaluating the clarity of diamonds.

Our system, just like with color, takes into account the weight and cut of the stone, only the ranges of groups increase slightly: diamonds of 17 and 33 facets - from 1 to 6, for diamonds of 57-facets - up to 0.29 carats from 1 to 9, for stones from 30 carats and above - from 1 to 12.

International system(GIA).

In contrast to the alphabetic (in alphabetical order) designation of color, the international scale of diamond clarity is indicated by an abbreviation with the addition of numbers (degrees) of defectiveness of stones. For example, the ideal clarity of a diamond is indexed "F" (Flowless - flawless, free of inclusions), and the worst case is indicated by the letter "I" (Imperfect - imperfect, with noticeable inclusions) with an index of 1, 2 or 3.

Cut

The processing of the mined mineral is certainly of the utmost importance. In most cases, it depends on the professionalism of the jeweler whether a dull, shapeless stone will sparkle with an amazing shine or become a mediocre "glass".

Rough diamonds can be cut in a number of ways, of which the round brilliant cut is the most popular, preferred in more than 90% of cases, despite the high cost. This type of cut allows from 57 ("classic") to 17 (simplified) facets. "Diamond" processing is the most optimal for revealing the unique optical properties of the stone.

All other types of cuts belong to the group of fancy cuts, which, in turn, are wedge-shaped (round-oval proportions) and stepped (angular, polygonal).

The most popular types of fancy cuts are: "oval", "marquis" (oval with pointed top and bottom), "pear" (in the form of a drop), "princess" (square), "heart", "baguette" (rectangle), "Emerald" (polygon).

Diamond cut quality groups.

The maximum brilliance and play of a diamond is achieved as a result of the most accurate observance of proportions calculated according to a certain formula, which takes into account the following ratios: depth - diameter of a stone, diameter of a platform - diameter of a stone.

According to the international GIA system, the cut quality of diamonds can be: "Ideal" (ideal), "Premium" (excellent), "Very Good" (very good), "Good" (good), "Poor" (good quality). The foreign system of cut quality (geometric conformity, polishing quality, symmetry) is very convenient from the point of view of clarity, in contrast to the domestic one, denoted by the letters:

• for Kr-57 - ranges from "A" to "G";


• For Kr-17 and fantasy forms - "A" and "B";


• unconventional cut proportions are usually attributed to the "B" group.

By the way, the proportions of the cut of a diamond are often violated not because of the unprofessionalism of the master, but because of the need to preserve the size of the stone as much as possible.

What's on the tag?

After reviewing the characteristics that make up the price of a diamond, we can understand what the tag attached to the product is about. The characteristics of the stone are placed opposite the "insert" column. Usually, information is indicated in this form:

Br. Cr. 57 1 Pcs. 3/4 A 0.07 ct

"Br. Cr. " - type of cut, here - "round diamond";

"57" - the number of faces;

"1 PC." - the number of stones with the same characteristics in the product;

"3/4" - color / clarity;

"A" - cut quality;

"0.07 ct" is the carat weight.

In addition, the condition of the tag itself is important, because it is the “face” of the manufacturer, and reputable offices do not save on it. Typically, the tag is located on a heavy-duty thread attached to the product, where there should be a seal-imprint with the manufacturer's logo. It must contain information about the manufacturing plant and its legal address, product name, metal and sample, insert (characteristics of all stones), article number, regulatory documents, price for the entire product, size, have an OTK stamp.

Images: "© Depositphotos.com/Norman Chan"

"Brilliant of pure water" ... Such a familiar expression. And what does it really mean? In this article, SA&GA Jewelry House consultants will talk about characteristics of diamonds, on how to correctly read the tag to the products.

Every woman wants to have diamond jewelry. And when buying, it is important to correctly decipher the characteristics indicated on the tag, because the price of the jewelry depends on them.

Jewelry tag characteristics

A sealed tag for jewelry is a quality certificate. It indicates the manufacturer of the jewelry without fail, the main characteristics of the gem, encrypted in a special code, as well as the sample of the metal. The tag is your jewelry guarantee.

Now let's take a closer look at what each digit means.

Diamond grading system "4c"

There are generally accepted characteristics of diamonds... We will analyze each in detail.

The 4c ​​system is a classification of diamonds based on their characteristics:

Color– color

Clarity - purity

Carat - carat weight

Cut - cut

All four of these factors directly affect the beauty and value of a diamond.

Carat (weight) + Color (color) + Clarity (clarity) + Cut (cut) = diamond value

Color– color

Basically, diamonds are colorless. To a layman it seems that all diamonds are transparent. But in reality, diamonds have different shades - ranging from pale yellow to brown. This can only be determined by a specialist gemologist.

A pure diamond is a completely pure diamond without flaws. These are the most highly prized and also the most expensive. Diamonds with a yellowish tint are no longer valued so highly. It is quite rare to find diamonds with a sapphire blue hue and they are very expensive.

According to the current specifications, the color characteristic of diamonds is indicated by numbers. So, diamonds with 57 facets and weighing up to 0.29 carats are divided into 7 groups. Diamonds of the same cut, weighing over 0.3 carats, are divided into 9 color groups.

Group number	Decryption
	colorless higher, and also with a shade of blue
	colorless
	with a subtle shade
	with a slight shade of yellow
	with slight yellowish, greenish, aquamarine, purple and gray shades
	with visible yellow, green, aquamarine, gray and slight brown tints
	with clearly visible yellow, green, lemon, aquamarine, and gray shades
	yellow (with yellow, green, lemon color in the whole diamond)
	brown or yellow-brown

Diamonds of the third class are considered optimal in terms of price and quality of a diamond with 57 facets.

In the international system GIA diamond ratings the color of a diamond is indicated by letters of the Latin alphabet.

Carat - weight

The generally accepted measure of the mass of diamonds, as well as other precious and semi-precious stones, is usually measured in carats. One carat is equal to 0.2 grams.

Tables have also been developed to roughly estimate the size of a diamond.

Clarity - purity

Diamond clarity depends on the state of the crystal lattice. It can only be determined by gemologists using a special gemological 10-fold magnifier and a microscope.

The most ideal option is when there are no inclusions at all, either inside or on its surface. These are unique stones that are not found on the mass market, they are auction stones and they are very expensive.

In international practice, it is customary to denote the purity of a stone with numbers and it looks like this:

In jewelry, the optimal clarity groups are 2 and 3. For KR-57 diamonds up to 0.29 carats - groups 4 and 5, and for diamonds over 0.3 carats - 4 - 6.

Cut - cut

A sparkling diamond is an expertly cut diamond. It is the cut that allows you to reveal the magic and beauty of the stone, and it is selected individually.

The proportions of an ideal cut in terms of the refraction of light rays were presented by a mathematician of Russian origin at the beginning of the 20th century, Marcel Tolkovsky, in his work "Diamond Design". Round diamonds with 57 facets all over the world are considered the world standard.

The quality of the cut depends on how the facets of the diamond refract and transmit light, and not on the type of cut (emerald, marquise, heart, etc.). Such a magical property of the return of light is possible only in a diamond, in its highly skilled artistic and technical cutting work.

According to TU, the geometric parameters of diamonds are divided into categories - from A to G. The highest quality cut, in which all recognized reference measures are observed, is considered "A".

There are several types of diamond cuts: