Addictions 

Construction of various silhouettes of women's clothing designs. Stage iii: building the midline of the back

Building the midline of the back drawing patterns of shoulder products.

For straight products

It carries a structural load in the upper part of the backrest, a dart is created to fit the convexity of the shoulder blades.

From point A the top of the midline deviates to the right by 0.5 cm for typical figures and by 1 cm for stooped figures, denoted by a dot A*.

Deviation from the vertical at the waist line T T1 = 1 cm.

Points A * U T1 connect with a smooth line. Point T1 connect with a straight line to a point B1 and continue it down. The point of intersection of this straight line with the bottom line is denoted by H1.

For semi-adjacent and fitted forms

1) The middle line does not bear the structural load T T1 = 2-2.5 cm.

Points A and T1 connect with a straight line, which we continue down to the point H1.

2) The middle cut line bears the structural load

А А * = (from 0.5-1 cm)

T T1 = 1.5 cm

T1 T11 = (from 0.7-1.5 cm) tuck solution at the waist.

Draw the line of the middle cut of the back through the points A * Y g T11 B1 H1

Through points T11 and B1 draw a straight line, continuing it down to the intersection with the horizontal from the point N... The intersection point is denoted by H11... Draw the middle cut line through the points A * Y g T11 B1 H11.

For free-form products and expanded downwards

We deviate the middle line in the drawing to the left. H H1 = (from 6 to 10) cm.

Point A or another point that determines the level of the beginning of expansion, connect to the point H1.

To Draw Side Slice Lines

The side seam can be positioned in the extreme left position - pass through the point D1 or even go on the back by 0.5-1 cm.It can be located both to the right and to the left of the point G1 to 0.5 G1 G4.

The position of the side seam line on the waist line in products of a straight silhouette with a deflection in the side seams and a semi-adjacent silhouette is not determined by calculation, but is found graphically. To do this, we connect the points that determine the position of the side seam on the chest line and on the line of the hips (or bottom) with straight lines, and then with concave lines, the degree of concavity of which is determined by the posterior size of the darts opening.

In fitted products, the position of the side sections of the back and the shelf on the waist line is found as follows: we determine the difference between the width of the product on the chest line and the waist line. The difference is:

(Cr2 + Pg) - (St + Pt) - T T1.

The resulting value is the sum of the solutions of the darts and side seams and is denoted ΣB... We distribute it between the darts and side cuts.

In the side section of the back, as in the side section of the shelf, we design 1/5 of the total solution of the darts (Σ B) or 1/4 ΣB in both side cuts.

In the drawing, the size of the solution of the tuck, projected in the side cut of the back, is measured along the waist line from the vertical drawn down from the point G5 to the left, and the size of the solution of the tuck projected in the side cut of the shelf - to the right.

To determine the position of the side slices on the hip line, we find the difference between the finished product width along the hips and chest lines. The difference is:

(Sat + Pb) - (Cr2 + Pg) + B B1.

When building a drawing, the width of the product on the hip line must be increased by the resulting value, which is evenly distributed between the shelf and the back relative to the vertical G5 H2... Or, to a lesser extent, the obtained value is attributed to the back and to a greater extent - to the shelf. This applies to products with an open seam on the back side, the smooth design of which is given great attention.

B2 B4 = B2 B5 = ((Sb + Pb) - (Cr2 + P1) + B B1): 2

Then we find the width of the back and the shelf at the bottom. In products of a straight silhouette, the width of the back at the bottom should be equal to the width under the armhole or more by 1-2 cm; the width of the shelf at the bottom should be equal to or greater than the width under the armhole by 1-2 cm for dresses and more than the width under the armhole by 3-5 cm for a coat. For free-form products, the expansion at the bottom is much larger.

We determine the width of the back and shelves at the bottom in the products of semi-adjacent and fitted silhouettes, adding 3-10 cm to the width of the product on the hip line.

From the waist line to the hip line, the side cuts are usually drawn with a convex line.

From the line of the hips to the bottom, draw the side sections with straight lines.

In the drawing of products of a straight silhouette of large and medium volume, we draw out the side sections with straight lines, connecting the dots G51 N4 N5

Having drawn the lines of the side slices, they are aligned: G51 H5 = G51 H4 or G5 H5 = G5 H4

In semi-adjacent and fitted products, the side cuts are aligned in sections: up from the waist line, and then down from the waist line.

Bottom line.

The line of the bottom of the back in its middle part is always perpendicular to the line of the middle of the back. In products that are significantly widened to the bottom, it is necessary to align the side cut of the back from the waist down in length with the middle cut of the back, therefore draw the bottom line in the side with a smooth convex line.

Draw the bottom line of the shelf (front) with a smooth convex line, connecting the points H3 H5.

: "Where on the back will the share thread pass, along which line - along the vertical line of the grid or along the outlet line?"
The answer was so obvious that it did not last long for a long article. Of course, it is the vertical lines of the grid that must be positioned in accordance with the shared direction of the threads of the fabric, so that there are no distortions in the overall fit of the dress.
Arguments:

  • Both the axes of the darts and the relief seams in the classical case run parallel to the drawing grid.
  • The vertical of the base of the matter allows you to beautifully flow around the figure without distortions and creases. This is in the general case, and there are also special Dizaneir techniques, which we are not talking about today.

But - "word for word" - we got into a conversation and found out that the question was not asked from scratch and the answer was not so clear-cut. I propose to deal with an interesting design technique

What is the back midline bend? What is it for?

When we sew clothes with a one-piece back, for example, a blouse, shirt or jacket, then everything is simple: the middle line is strictly vertical and coincides with the warp thread.

But jackets, jackets, coats and dresses of fitted silhouettes require a more precise fit and a beautiful back fit. Here the middle seam comes to the rescue, and it is not cut vertically. The middle seam helps shape the garment around the shoulder blades, waist and hips. It follows the natural curve of the spine, which is different for all people. Often, the waist darts on the back are not enough for a perfect fit, and more deflection and lengthening of the back are required.

The abduction of the midline of the back (the bevel from point 7 of the cervical vertebra to the waist line) is made 1-2 cm for female figures and 1.5-2.5 cm for men. And even 3.5 cm for men's jackets.

Posture in people is different, including the deflection of the lower back and the protrusion of the buttocks, therefore, the abduction of the midline must be "done" for a specific figure. See how it might look:


Design techniques, as a rule, unify and average out the constructed patterns, but in custom tailoring there is a lifeline - fitting.

I looked through my design library and found the difference in the authors' approach to the center seam of the back. Not all of them suggest making a challenge.

Here's an overview of the most popular techniques:

EMKO CMEA - there is a branch
Müller is
Lin Jacques-there
Zlachevskaya G.M. - not in the general case, but there are exceptions for non-standard figures with a large deflection along the back.


in many good techniques, there is no middle suture abduction.

More options:
Kryuchkova G.A. - there is a lead
Roslyakova T.A. -there is.

The question was asked to me just according to Roslyakova's method. Look closely at the construction diagram: Yes, there is a midline lead. But along with the shift in the direction of the midline, the waist and bottom lines are also corrected: they make up a right angle with the abducted line of the back. The axes of the darts are drawn parallel to the abducted line of the back.

This means that the answer will be correct: the thread of the warp (share) when cutting out the back will coincide with the middle line, and not with the grid of the drawing.

The fact is that when applying a particular design technique, it is necessary to adhere to the philosophy and logic of a particular author. All construction nodes are interconnected and you need to be able to see the forest for the trees, that is, to understand the purpose of each constructive line in a specific technique. Roslyakova "shifts" the direction of the back, thereby shortening the side line. I personally did not make constructions using this technique, so I will not undertake to deeply analyze.

To do or not to abduct the backrest?

And what about this middle seam and a bunch of clever techniques, if they were wrong?

Let's get closer to practice, to sewing jackets, coats and well-fitting dresses. Stop at the technique that is understandable and close to you. Remember, this is a myth.

I always make the middle seam on the back bounced (except for shirts, of course). I make a standard bend along the waistline of 2 cm (like Muller's), and then I look at the figure:

  • There may be protruding buttocks (I add a positive abduction along the hip line), there may be fat deposits in the cervical vertebrae (I add a positive abduction along the neck line).
  • There may be a strong deflection in the lower back (I do a large bend along the waist line)
  • I leave a sufficient allowance along the midline of the back and, when trying on, I pin the middle back to get a beautiful posture. Obviously, this line will not be straight, as in the drawing. Be careful here: you cannot take all the excess volumes and simply "capture" in the middle seam. The balance of width and the distribution of excess CO allowances should be harmonious.
  • I outline the line for attaching the zipper in dresses at the last fitting, when the fit of the product is completely satisfied.

Semi-girths (we divide the measurements of the girths in half and get half-girths):



Rice. 1


Ssh - half-girth of the neck
Cr1 - first half-girth of the chest
Cr2 - second chest half girth
Cr3 - third chest half
St - waist half-girth
Sat - half hip

Lengths:



Rice. 2


Di - product length
DP - shoulder length
Dts - back length to waist
Accident - the length of the shelf to the waist



Rice. 3


Width:

Шп - shoulder width
Wg - chest width
Shs - back width



Rice. 4

Heights:

Vpkg - oblique shoulder height chest



Rice. 5

Vpks - shoulder height oblique back



Rice. 6


Bg - chest height

We take measurements from the figure according to Figures 1-4. When taking measurements of the girths of the chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the measuring tape should be located strictly horizontally at the narrowest / widest point (depending on the measurement). When removing the loops, there is no need to tighten the tape, as this can lead to a narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and shelf, as well as to determine the projected line of the shoulder seam.

Increases for freedom of fit

The increments depend on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when constructing. We will take average values ​​as an example. And you also need to take into account that we use the increments to build half of the product.

For an example of building a dress, we will take size 48 (this is a size of 96.0 cm across the chest) for height 164.

Measurements:

W = 18.5 cm
Cr1 = 45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat = 52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Accident = 44.4 cm
Shp = 13.3 cm
Wd = 17.3 cm
Ws = 18.3 cm
VPC = 43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Bg = 27.5 cm

Increases:

Pg = 6.0 cm
Fri = 3.0 cm
PB = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr = 4.9 cm
PDT = 0.5 cm
PDTP = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Pspr = 2.0 cm

Meshing calculation:

Net width (A0a1) = Cr3 + Pg = 48.0 + 6.0 = 54.0 cm
Back width (A0a) = Shs + Pshs = 18.3 + 0.8 = 19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2) = Wr + (Cr2-Cr1) + Pshp = 17.3 + (50.4-45.9) + 0.3 = 22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2) = Shpr = Shset- (Shsp + Shpol) = 54.0- (19.1 + 22.1) = 12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) = Vprz + Pspr 0.5 * Pdts = 21.5 + 2.0 + 0.5 * 0.5 = 23.8 cm
Waist line position (A0T) = Dts + Pdts = 42.9 + 0.5 cm = 43.4 cm
The position of the thigh line (A0B) = Dts / 2-2 = 42.9 / 2-2 = 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A "H1) = Di + Dts = 90.0 + 0.5 cm = 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be postponed after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will postpone the length of the product from point A1.

Meshing

Step 1



Rice. 7


We take point A0 as the first point of construction and from it we put off to the right the width of the grid - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.

To the right of point A0 on the line A0a1, we set aside the width of the backrest, we get point a.

To the left of point a1 on the line A0a1, set aside the width of the shelf and get point a2.
The segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.

Downward from point A0, we postpone the height of the mesh and put point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).

From point A0 downwards we lay down the position of the chest line on the line A0G and get point G.
Also, from point A0 on the segment A0G, it postpones the position of the waist line and we get point T.
And the position of the hip line is postponed from point T on the segment A0G and we get point B.

From point a1 downwards we also postpone the height of the grid and get the point H3. We close the rectangle.

From points G, T and B we draw horizontals and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with the line a1H3.
In turn, from points a and a2, we lower the vertical to the chest line ГГ3 and get points Г1 and Г4.
The first and important step in building the mesh should look like the one shown in Fig. 7.

Building a drawing of the back

Step 2




Rice. eight


From point A0, we set aside to the left on the line 0.5 cm - this is the retraction of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0 ".

From point A0 "down the line A0H, we postpone the level of the blades, which is 0.4 * Dtc = 0.4 * 42.9 = 17.2 cm and we get point Y. connect point Y with point A0" with a time line.

We build the depth of the neck of the back A0 "A = A2A1 = 7.2 / 3 = 2.4 down from the point A0" on the line A0 "Y. We finish building the rectangle and draw the line of the neck of the back with a curved curve.
This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eight.

Step 3



Rice. nine


From point T to the left on the TT3 waistline, we postpone the withdrawal along the waistline = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.

To build the middle seam of the back, we set aside from point H to the right a bend equal to the bend along the waist line of 1.5 cm and we get point H1. We draw the middle seam of the back through the points A-U-T1-H1.

From the neck of the back along the middle seam, put the length of the back down and get the point H (of the correct length).

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. nine.

Step 4



Rice. ten


We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Шп + tuck solution = 13.3 + 2.0 = 15.3 cm, where the tuck opening is 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 is equal to Bpk + Pvpk, where Ppvk = Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case = 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 = 43.7 cm.

At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1, set point P1.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. ten.

Step 5




Rice. eleven

We begin construction of the shoulder dart by determining the position of the dart along the shoulder seam. The dart should be located at 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 = 4.4 - 3.3, take the value 4.0 cm.

When constructing the shoulder seam, we took the solution of the dart = 2.0 cm. We set aside point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 with a step of 2.0 cm. Further, from points I1 and I2 we draw a radius equal to 7.0 cm and we get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to raise the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.

We connect the sides of the darts with the points of the neck A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular, we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eleven.

Step 6




Rice. 12


We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of the line P1G1 - the length of this section is 18.9 cm.To build point P3 = 18.9 / 3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm.Put P3 from point G1 from the chest line by segment Г1а1.

From the angle Г1 of the armhole, we draw a bisector with a length = Spr * 0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8 * 0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.

Auxiliary point Г2 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole, i.e. Shpr / 2 = 12.8 / 2 = 6.4 cm.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 12.

Step 7



Rice. 13


The armhole line of the back is drawn with a smooth line, while point P2 should have a right angle.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 13.

Building a shelf drawing

Step 8



Fig. 14


To plot the center point of the chest, the distance Г3Г4 / 2 - 1.0 = 22, ½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from the Г3 point to the right and we get the Г6 point.

For the products of the dress group, we draw up the descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we set aside 0.5 cm from the point T3 and get the point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of G3G6.

To build the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh / 3 + Pshgor = 18.5 / 3 + 1.0 = 7.2 cm, set aside from point A3 to the left on the horizontal and get point A4. The depth of the neck is calculated using the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and wires with a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and we get the point of the neck A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make notches and we obtain an auxiliary point A3 "from which we draw an arc of the neck of the shelf.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. fourteen.

Step 9



Fig. 15


We postpone the position of the highest point of the mammary glands from point A4 with a radius equal to Bg = 27.5 cm and get point G7.

At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the chest height from point G7 and the radius of the tuck opening from point A4, we find point A9.

We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and we get a chest dart of the shelf.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 15.

Step 10




Rice. 16


To determine auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of point P4 on the segment a2G4. For this, the distance П1Г1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm = 18.9 - 1.0 = 17.9 cm, we obtain the distance П4Г4. Further, this distance is Г4П4 / 3 = 6.0 cm and we postpone this distance from the point Г4 upwards and we get the point П6.

Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.

We draw a shoulder line through points A9P5.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 16.

Step 11




Fig. 17


To build the armhole of the shelf, draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.

From the angle G4, to build the armhole, we draw the bisector Spr * 0.2 = 12.8 * 0.2 = 2.6 cm.

Through points П5 - П6 - Г2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 17.

Drawing side lines

Step 12



Rice. eighteen


We will start the construction of the side lines along the chest line from the point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. Draw a vertical downward from point G4, this is the centerline of the side seam.

At the intersection with the waist line, hips and bottom, we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.

For the design of the side seam, take 0.4 * P-p tuck = 0.4 * 11.5 = 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete solution of the tuck in the side seam. To do this, 4.6 / 2 = 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from the point T2. And we get points T21 and T22.

Next, we calculate the extension along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 = (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 = 2.0 cm.We also divide it in half 2/2 = 1.0 cm, so that postpone the extension on the thighs on both sides of the B2 point. And we get points B21 and B22.

In this example of construction, we will leave the dress with a straight silhouette at the bottom, therefore, along the bottom line along the side seam, we postpone the same values ​​as for the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.

Through points G4-T21-B22-N22 and G4-T22-B21-N21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the shelf and back.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. eighteen.

Step 13



Rice. 19


To build a dart along the waist line of the back, we determine the position of the dart along the waist line on the back, for this distance T1T21 / 2 = 21.8 / 2 = 10.9 cm and we get point T4.

Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line (P-r elongated - P-r elongated side) * 0.55 = (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 = 3.8 cm.This solution is also halved 3.8 / 2 = 1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.

The height of the dart from the waist line up and down is 15.0 cm each - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 19.

Step 14



Rice. twenty


To build a dart along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf, for this, down from the waist line from point T6, we lower the vertical to the line of the hips - we get point T5.

Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line P-p elongated - P-p elongated side-P-p elongated cn = 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 = 3.1 cm.This solution is also halved 3, ½ = 1.55 and set aside from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.

The height of the dart from the waist line up and down is the same as on the back of 15.0 cm - we get points K3 and K4.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. twenty.

Step 15




Rice. 21


To build the relief lines, it is necessary to translate a part of the breast dart of the shelf. To do this, set aside 4.0 cm with a notch equal to the distance from the neckline to the dart of the back = 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.

We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the translation radius of the chest dart = 26.3 cm.

Now, from point A4, set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 = 4.0 cm, set the first notch, and from the point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii we get point A8. Then we connect the points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get the shoulder line to the line of the shelf relief and a section of the shelf relief.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 21.

Step 16



Rice. 22


To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the center line of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.

We lower the lines of the reliefs of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get points H4 and H5, respectively.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 22.



Rice. 23


The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look like the one shown in fig. 23.

Step 17



Rice. 24


Next, you need to translate the main parts of the shelf, the barrel of the shelf, the back and the barrel of the back to tracing paper and add allowances for the seams.

This stage of construction should look like the one shown in Fig. 24.

If these are your first steps in design, then the design must be checked, that is, the dress must be sewn from the mock fabric and the fitting must be carried out to be sure that no errors occurred in the calculations and construction.

Also, after construction, it is necessary to add details of the neckline and armholes of the back and shelf. And also, if desired, decorative elements - yokes, flounces, edging, etc.

Photo: website
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
Prepared by Anna Soboleva

To construct this drawing, we take conditional measurements of the 48th size:

Back drawing

Armhole depth.

Length to waist. From point A, lay down 40 cm (measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm; 39 + 1 = 40 cm) and put point T.

Hip line. From point T, we put down 17.5 cm (1/2 measurements of length to the waist minus 2 cm; 19.5-2 = 17.5 cm) and put point B.

Dress length. From point A downwards we put off 100 cm (measure the length of the dress) and put point H.

From points A, D, T, B, H to the right we draw horizontal lines of arbitrary length, then we connect these points, drawing the middle line of the back.

Sprout. From point A to the right, set aside the width of the sprout 6.5 cm (1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm; 6 + 0.5 = 6.5 cm) and set point A1. From it we set aside 2.2 cm upwards (1/3 of the width of the sprout; 6.5: 3 = 2.2 cm) and set point A2. We connect points A, A 2 with a smooth curve, drawing the line of the sprout.

Back width. From the point G to the right, set aside 19.8 cm (measure the width of the back plus 1.8 cm for a free fit; 18 + 1.8 = 19.8 cm) and put the point G 1. From it we draw a vertical line upwards and at the intersection from point A 1 we put point A 3.

Shoulder seam. From point A 3 downward vertically, set aside 3.5 cm and set point P. From point A 2 through point P, set aside 15 cm (measure of shoulder width plus 1 cm for a slip; 14 + 1 = 15 cm) and set point P 1.

Armhole. From the point G 1 to the right horizontally, set aside 5.8 cm (1/2 of the width of the armhole) and set the point G 2. The width of the armhole of the dress is the difference between the width of the entire dress and the sum of the widths of the back and front, taking into account the increase in free fitting.

From point G 1 upward vertically, set aside 8.2 cm (1/3 of the length of the segment G 1 P plus 2 cm up) and set point P 2. From point G 1 we draw a bisector (a line dividing the angle in half) 2.5 cm long and put the number 1. Connect points P 1, P 2, 1, G 2, drawing the line of the back armhole.

Side seam. Draw a vertical line from point G 2 downwards and at the intersection with the horizontal line from point H set point H 1. We connect points G 2, H 1, drawing a side seam.

Bottom. We connect the points H, H 1, drawing the bottom.

front drawing

We draw a right angle, denote the top by point A.

Armhole depth. From point A downward vertically we set aside 22 cm (1/2 measurements of the half-girth of the second chest minus 2 cm; 24-2 = 22 cm) and put point G.

Length to waist. From point A, lay down 40 cm (measure the length of the back to the waist plus 1 cm; 39 + 1 = 40 cm) and put point T.

Hip line. From point T downwards we put aside 17.5 cm (1/2 measurements of the length of the back to the waist minus 2 cm; 19.5-2 = 17.5) and put point B.

Dress length. From point A, we put down 100 cm (measure the length of the dress) and put point H.

From points A, D, T, B, H to the left, draw horizontal lines of arbitrary length

Front width along the chest line. From point A to the left horizontally, set aside 22.7 cm (measure the width of the chest, the difference between the second and first half-girth of the chest, an increase in the width of the front; 17.5 + 4 + 1.2 = 22.7 cm) and set point A1. We lower the vertical from it DOWN, on the line of its intersection with the horizontal from the point G we put the point G 1.

Chest dart position. From point G to the left horizontally, set aside 10.3 cm (1/2 of the front width along the chest line - segment ГГ 1 minus 1 cm; 11.3-1 = 10.3 cm) and set point Г 2. Draw a vertical line of arbitrary length upwards from it.

Top of the neck. From point T up the vertical line through points G, A we put aside 44 cm (measure the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm; 43 + 1 = 44 cm) and put point A2. From it to the left we draw a horizontal line, set aside the width of the neck 6.5 cm along it (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm; 6 + 0.5 = 6.5 cm) and set point A 3.

Neckline. From point A 2 downward vertically set aside the depth of the neck 7.5 cm (width of the neck plus 1 cm; 6.5 + 1 = 7.5 cm) and set point A 4. From points A 3 and A 4 we draw perpendiculars, at their intersection we put point Ш. From it we draw a bisector 3 cm long and set point Ш 1. We connect points А 3, Ш 1 А 4 with a concave line, drawing the neckline.

Front line. We connect points A 4, G, T, B, H, drawing a line in the middle of the front, lengthen it from point H down by 1 cm and set point H1.

Chest dart. From point A 3 with a radius equal to the measure of the height of the chest (26 cm), we make a notch on the vertical line from point G 2 and put point G 3. From point A 3 to the left along a horizontal line, set aside 4.5 cm (1/3 measurements of shoulder width, 13.5: 3 = 4.5 cm) and set point A 5.

From it to the left in an arc we set aside the solution of the tuck 10 cm (the solution is equal to the doubled difference between the measurements of the second and first half-girths of the chest plus 2 cm; 48-44 = 4x2 = 8 + 2 = 10 cm) and set point P. We connect this point with point G 3 in a thin line. From point P to the right along an arc, set aside 4.5 cm (segment A 3 A 5, that is, 1/3 measurements of the shoulder width) and set point A 6.

Top of the armhole. From the point G 1 upward vertically we set aside a distance equal to the length of the segment G 1 P (in the drawing of the back), and put the point P 1.

Armhole. From point Г 1 upward vertically we postpone 1/3 of the measurements of the segment Г 1 П 1 and set point П 2. From it, with a radius of P 2 P 1, we draw an arc to the left. On it, from point A 6, we make a notch with a radius equal to the measure of the width of the shoulder (13.5 cm), and set point P 3. From point G 1 we draw a bisector 2 cm long and put the number 2.

We connect points P 2, P 3 with a thin line, divide it in half, denote the middle with the number 3. From it to the right, set aside 1 cm and put the number 4. Connect points P 3, 4, P 2, 2, G 2, drawing the line of the front armhole.

Side seam. Draw a vertical line from point G 2 downwards and set point H 2 at its intersection with the horizontal bottom. We connect points G 2, H 2, drawing a side seam.

Bottom. We connect the points H, H 2, drawing the bottom.

Shoulder seam. We connect points A 6, P 3 with a thin line, at the intersection of it with the line from point P below we put point P 4. We connect points P 3, P 4, drawing the shoulder seam.

From the point G 3 upward vertically we postpone the distance equal to the measurement of the segment P 4, G 3, and put the point A 7. We connect points A 7 and P 4 with point G 3, drawing a chest dart. We connect points A 3, A 7, drawing the rest of the shoulder seam.

After the design of the entire armhole of the dress, we connect the points P 1, P 3 with a dotted line, denote the middle with point O. From it, draw a vertical line downwards and at the intersection with the horizontal line of the armhole, set the point O 1. From point O downward, set aside 2.7 cm and set point O 2. The distance between the points О 1 О 2 determines the vertical diameter of the armhole used when constructing the drawing of the sleeve.

Notes:

1. A tuck is a structural element. With its help, a volumetric shape is created where it is needed. For example, a bust dart forms the volume of the chest. In modern designs of dresses, blouses, jackets, coats, darts with a direction from the shoulder seam to the center of the chest are not made. They, as a rule, are located in the armhole, under the armhole, sometimes in the side cut, on the waist line, in the yoke line, in relief, etc. However, when building the base of the drawing, the dart is designed precisely from the shoulder seam and is the initial desired location.

In this example, in the drawing of the base of the pattern, the place of the beginning of the new position of the dart is marked by point B. It is connected to the lower end of the primary dart - point G 3. The line between these points is cut, the solution of the primary tuck (points P 4 and A 7) is closed by cleaving it with a pin. After that, a solution of a new tuck is formed, the beginning of which is designated by point B 1 and connected to point G 3. In the drawing of the base of the dress of a straight silhouette, the dashed lines show the outlines of a new dart and new lines of the armhole and shoulder seam obtained after closing the original dart. In the same way, she moves to any other place on the bodice. It is not necessary to calculate the gap of a new tuck regardless of its length, because its angle always corresponds to the angle of the opening obtained when calculating the primary tuck.

In all cases of movement of the dart, its end should be directed to the protruding point of the chest. The opening of the dart ends at 1.5-2 cm to its end, which ensures a smooth grind of the dart and its processing.

For a figure with large breasts, the bust gap is too wide. In this case, it is better to move it into two darts - into the side and tackle or into the neck and tackle.

Sometimes the dart is replaced with soft folds, drapery, gathers.

2. If the fabric is dry and does not lend itself to stitching, a dart is made in the shoulder section of the back. Its solution is 1.5-2.5 cm, depending on the structure of the fabric. Its length is 6-8 cm, and its location in the shoulder section depends on the features of the figure (shoulder blades protrusion, back curvature). But in all cases, the dart is built parallel to the middle of the back.

In the drawing of the back, the shoulder width expands against the measure, taking into account the solution of the dart.

3. Based on the drawing of a straight silhouette dress, you can build a dress of adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes. To do this, it is necessary to place the top of the side seam - point G 2 at a distance of 1-5 cm from point G 1, that is, shift the side seam from the middle of the armhole closer, towards the armhole of the back.

For example, from point 1 on the armhole line, draw down a vertical line, at the intersection of it with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, respectively, denote points m 1, b 1, H 1.

Side cuts on the waistline of the dress are made with a sag, and darts are designed on the back and front. The amount of deflections, as well as the number of darts, the location, length and size of their solutions depend on the silhouette, physique, fashion and are specified on fitting.

The amount of dart solutions is determined by the difference between the width of the dress along the chest line and the width along the waist line.

Let's give an example. The width of the dress along the chest line is equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the chest 48 cm plus 6 cm, that is, for free fitting = 54 cm.The width of the dress along the waist line is equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the waist 38 cm plus 2 cm, that is, for free fitting = 40 cm.

The difference is 14 cm. This excess at the waist is taken into the darts and into the deflections of the side seams.

In the drawing of the base of the dress, dotted lines show an approximate diagram of the location of the darts and deflections of the side seams of the back and front. Since the grid of the base of the drawing is built on the basis of the half-girth of the chest, which is usually less than the half-girth of the hips, it is necessary to check the correspondence of the width of the product along the line of the hips in the drawing with the measurement of the half-girth of the hips and the increase in the free fit provided for in the table, and correct the width of the hips along the back and on the front.

The width of the dress at the bottom is determined by the silhouette of the model.

Drawing of a straight sleeve of a dress

The construction of the sleeves is carried out on the basis of measurements of some values ​​taken from the drawing of the dress.

We draw a vertical line, denote the top by point O.

The length of the sleeve. From point O downward vertically, set aside 53 cm (measure of the length of the sleeve) and put point H.

Okat height. From point O downward vertically we postpone the measurement value of the segment O 1 O 2 (the vertical diameter of the armhole in the drawing of the dress) and put the point O 1.

From points O, O 1, H to the left and to the right, draw horizontal lines of arbitrary length.

Sleeve width under the armhole. From point O 1 to the left and to the right horizontally, we set aside 17.5 cm in each direction (1/2 of the sum of the measurement of the arm girth and the increase in free fitting; 29 + 6: 2 = 17.5 cm) and set the points to the left, respectively - P, to the right - P 1.

Anterior and elbow rolls.

From point O 1 to the left and to the right horizontally, we lay aside 8.8 cm 1/2 of the width of the sleeve under the armhole; 17.5: 2 = 8.8 cm) and set the points to the left - Р 2, to the right - Р 3, respectively. From these points we draw vertical lines upward, at the intersection of them with a horizontal line from point O to the right we put point O 2, and to the left - point O 3.

Divide the distance between points O, O 2 in half, minus 1.5 cm and put point O 4. Divide the distance between points O, O 3 in half, denote the middle by point O 5.

Okata line. Divide the segment P 3 P 1 in half, denote the middle with the number 1. From it, put 0.7 cm upwards and put the number 2.

From point P 3 upward vertically we set aside a distance equal to the length of the segment G 1 P 2 (in the drawing of the front of the dress) minus 1 cm, and put the number 3. From it to the right, set aside 0.5 cm and put the number 4. Connect point O 4 and number 4 with a thin line.

From point O 4 down the oblique, lay off 2 cm and put the number 5.

From point Р 2 upwards vertically we postpone the distance equal to the length of the segment Г 1 П 2 (in the drawing of the back), and put the number 6. We connect the point O 5 and the number 6 with a thin line. From point O 5 down the oblique, lay 1.2 cm and put the number 7.

We connect the point P and the number 6 with a thin line, divide it in half, denote the middle with the number 8. From it, down the oblique, set aside 1 cm and put the number 9.

We connect the points P, 9, 6, 7, O, 5, 4, 2, P 1 with a smooth line, drawing the line of the okat.

Point O is the place of the control notch, which coincides with the shoulder seam of the dress.

Sleeve seam. From point H to the left and to the right horizontally, we set aside 14 cm (conditional width of the low sleeve) and set the points to the left - H 1, to the right - H 2, respectively. We connect points P, H 1, then points P 1, H 2, drawing the middle seam of the sleeve.

Bottom. Divide the distance between points H, H 1 in half, denote the middle by point H 3. We put 1.5 cm down from it and put the point H 4.

Divide the distance between points H, H 2 in half, denote the middle by point H 5. From it we set aside 1.5 cm upwards and put the point H 6.

We connect the points H 1, H 4, H, H 6, H 2 with a smooth curve, drawing the bottom of the sleeve.

Having received the base of the set-in straight sleeve, we can build a narrow sleeve on it. To do this, it is necessary to determine the line of the elbow and the width is low - 11 cm.First of all, we underestimate the tops of the anterior and elbow sections by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, as shown by the dotted lines on the horizontal PP 1, and set points A and A 1, respectively.

Elbow line. From point O downward vertically we set aside 33 cm (1/2 of the length of the new sleeve plus 5 cm; 56: 2 = 28 + 5 = 33 cm) and put point L.

The length of the sleeve. From point O downward, lay aside 56 cm (a conditional measure of the length of the new sleeve) and set point B. From points L and H to the right and left, draw horizontal lines of arbitrary length.

Middle line. From point B to the right horizontally, set aside 3 cm and set point B 1. We connect points L, B 1, drawing the middle line.

Width at the bottom. From point B, to the left and to the right, we set aside 5.5 cm (1/2 of the width of the sleeve at the bottom) and set the points to the left - B 2, to the right - B 3, respectively.

Front roll. We connect points P 3 and B 3 with a thin line, at the intersection of it with the horizontal line of the elbow we put point L 1. From it to the left, set aside 1 cm and put a point L 2. We connect the points P 3, L 2, B 3, drawing the line of the front roll.

Elbow roll. From point P 2 we draw a vertical line down to the horizontal line of the elbow, at the intersection we put point L 3. From it to the right we set aside 1 cm and put point L 4. We connect points P 2, L 4, B 2 and outline the elbow roll. After that, we unfold the sleeve along the line of the elbow and below around the front and elbow rolls as follows.

Front cut. Along the line of the elbow from point L 2 to the right horizontally, we postpone the distance equal to the length of the segment LL 2, and set the point L 5.

Along the bottom line from point B 3 to the right, set aside a distance equal to the length of segment B 1 B 3, and set point B 4.

We connect points A 1, L 5, B 4, drawing the line of the front cut.

Elbow dart. Along the line of the elbow from point L 4 to the left horizontally, set aside a distance equal to the length of the segment LL 4 plus 1 cm, and set point L 6. We connect points L 3, B 2 with a thin line. From point L 6 downward, draw a vertical line 2 cm long and set point L 7. We connect points L 3, L 6, then L 3, L 7, drawing a dart. Its solution is 2 cm.

Elbow cut. Along the bottom line from point B 2 to the left horizontally, set aside a distance equal to the length of segment B 1 B 2, and set point B 5. From it we draw a vertical line 2 cm long (equal to the tuck solution) downwards and set point B 6.

We connect points A, L 6, then points L 7 and B 6, drawing an elbow cut.

Bottom. From point B 3 we put 1 cm upwards and put point B 7.

We connect points B 6, B 2, B 7, B 4 with a smooth curve, drawing the bottom of the sleeve.

Note. The length of the armhole of the sleeve, that is, its entire circumference, must exceed the length of the armhole of the dress at the rate of 5 to 10 percent for each centimeter of the armhole. This percentage is given for the fit of the sleeve and depends on how much the fabric lends itself to stitching. For dry fabrics that cannot be pulled together, the fit can be partially replaced by a dart in the sleeve (at point O). The height of the ridge, the total length of the armhole of the sleeve and the planned fit are finalized after trying on the product.