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Painting tool. Universal applicator for applying varnishes, stains, impregnations and oils Applicator for applying oils and varnishes tikkurila

Even the most common applicator for applying paint has all these advantages, and there are also unusual solutions that give their owners additional opportunities in the field of design and surface decoration. In our store there is a wide range of applicators from the best manufacturers - we offer exclusively high-quality products with the greatest number of positive aspects, and each item in the assortment is in stock. With us, you can buy an applicator for applying varnish or paint at a bargain price, either separately or together with other products, and receive it with home delivery. We offer our clients convenient terms of purchase and a lot of additional services and opportunities.

Applicators: what do they give?

With applicators, you can do more than just work with convenience and material savings. In the assortment of our store, you can find solutions for creating various effects, for example, to imitate the texture of a tree. Special grooves allow you to exactly repeat the structure of the cut of oak or pine - the result is very attractive and impressive. In addition, there is an applicator on sale for applying varnish to the floor, which will allow you to work with convenience, without the risk of getting dirty. Those who have tried it in practice are well aware that it is always more convenient to work with a specialized applicator than with a brush - both on horizontal and vertical surfaces.

These products can be supplied with special handles that increase the convenience of their use, or just be sponges - there are many options. We have different solutions, and you can choose any of them to complete the finishing work and create an exclusive design without the hassle - you can do it, even if you have not tried it before. If you have any problems with choosing a tool - just call us or consult through the form on the website, our specialists will certainly help you find the best solution.

Universal applicator made of synthetic lambswool.

New multifunctional applicator for applying varnishes, stains and paints oil-based, polyurethane, latex and water-based, made of artificial sheep wool, consisting of a body and a nozzle, greatly simplifies painting and surface finishing.

The synthetic lambswool nozzle is durable, easy to replace and releases more paint to cover more meters of the board in less time than a brush. The 10 "(25 cm) nozzle is used with the standard ZAR Universal Applicator Body.

The attachments are designed in such a way that they can be removed for easy cleaning and simply put back on. For a quick and easy finish, use the extended handle.

The applicator can be used on parquet, wood floor, deck and concrete surfaces.

Advantages:

  1. Evenly spreading the composition, leaves no streaks or bubbles.
  2. Has a threaded hole for attaching an extension handle.
  3. Replaceable attachments can be easily removed and reused up to three times.

The Zar Fast Pad varnish and oil applicator is a professional painting tool for quickly and evenly applying various paints and varnishes to wooden surfaces. Made of artificial sheep wool, convenient and easy to use and clean.

The applicator has a dense working surface structure and is designed for applying the following materials:

  • Polyurethane varnishes;
  • Oil varnishes;
  • Water-based varnishes;
  • Paints on any basis;
  • Morilok.

When applied to the surface, it does not leave streaks or bubbles, it is applied in a uniform layer without spots and other surface defects. It is used for professional work when covering furniture, decorative wood products of any kind and type with decorative and protective means. It can also be used for painting floors and facades made of wood and concrete. Glides well on the surface, simplifies the work with paints and varnishes, providing an economical consumption.

Zar Fast Pad Specifications

The applicator has a body with a hole for the handle, which allows you to handle surfaces that are at a height or in hard-to-reach places without additional effort. The attachments have removable attachments; after work, the attachment can be removed, cleaned and washed. The length of the standard nozzle is - 25 centimeters and it covers a significant surface area in one pass. Synthetic wool earbuds have extra-strong bristles, which means they wear out slowly and evenly.

You can order the applicator by calling us right now. We will help you find the necessary paints and varnishes and tools for working with them, we will offer favorable prices to significantly save your budget. Call now to order goods with prompt home delivery.

The line of products for finishing work is constantly expanding and offers more and more perfect and interesting ways to decorate a room. Painting and plastering tools were no exception.

Based on the method of use, the painting tool can be divided into automatic and manual. The latter successfully helps to cope with the repair of small areas, and it is with him that we will get to know better.

General information about the painting tool

Brush. It is one of the most popular and demanded types of painting equipment. There are paneled, radiator, flywheel and other varieties that allow you to quickly and conveniently achieve the desired result of painting or applying glue.

Roller. Its variants are particularly diverse. Different types of rollers are suitable for different paints and adhesives: foam, fur, polyester, etc. They may also differ in the pattern of the work surface and in size. Selected views help you work with corners, paint pipes, and apply a pattern.

Putty knife. His lot is "dirty" work. With a spatula, the old coating is easily removed and the surfaces are leveled. The size range of this painting tool ranges from 25 mm to 450 mm.

You can also buy painting tools auxiliary character. These can be squeeze baths, telescope handles, etc.

Where is the paint shop?

Professional painting tools from renowned manufacturers will never let you down at work and will survive more than one repair, you can buy it both on our website and in our color studios. When placing an order, we will offer you a profitable bonus program, and the price will depend only on the manufacturer.

Rice. 37. Applicator for applying varnish

Some rules for working with varnish

On the surface of oil paint, enamel, varnish, even if they are placed in an airtight container, a rather thick film forms, which must be removed.

To avoid this, you need to cut a plastic wrap around the perimeter of the container and close the contents of the jar with it. Instead of a film, you can use a sheet of thin thick cardboard, soaked with the contents of the container and dried.

All varnishes thicken at low temperatures and lay down in a coarse layer.

Therefore, they are heated, mixed well and only then applied to a prepared and well-dried surface.

It is necessary to apply varnish in very thin layers, with the second one on the well-dried first one.

Surface preparation

The varnish should only be applied to a clean and dry floor, regardless of whether it is made of parquet, planks or cork. In order for the film to be even, the floor must be additionally sanded.

If there are stains on the floor, they must be cleaned, otherwise they will show through the varnish.

If the stains cannot be removed by sanding, you can treat them with undiluted bleach. Apply a small amount of bleach with a spatula to the center of the stain. If the stain begins to fade, the bleach can be applied to the entire stain. After the stain has disappeared and the color of the entire floor is uniform, you need to wash it with warm water and dry it.

The gaps in the floor must be repaired. Slots more than 3 mm wide should be filled with thin wooden planks, less than 3 mm - filled with putty or paste made from varnish and wood sawdust. A floor with a large number of gaps can also be repaired with slats. They are made of dry wood, and the thickness of the slats should be slightly greater than the width of the gap. They are greased with carpentry or casein glue and driven into the gaps between the boards with a hammer.

After the glue dries, the protruding parts of the rails are cut off with a plane.

To seal gaps and cracks in plank floors, use the following composition (in parts by weight): sawdust - 1, cement - 1, tile joiner's glue - 0.4 and water - 2.8.

Sawdust, cement are poured into a hot glue solution and everything is thoroughly mixed. Pigments can also be added to match the floor color.

The putty is used warm, applying it with a piece of plywood or with a spatula.

After all the work is over, the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, then treated with a solution of turpentine with a solvent and dried well.

Varnish application

The varnish should be applied from a place located at the maximum distance from the door, and then gradually move towards the exit.

It is more convenient to work with an assistant to cover the entire surface with varnish in one step, otherwise it will dry unevenly.

If you have to do the work alone, it is recommended to first apply the varnish to the part of the floor near the walls and in the corners (with a small brush), and then in the center (with a large brush, roller or applicator).

After the first coat of varnish has been applied, wait a while (from several hours to several days) for the varnish to dry completely.

The varnish dries in three stages. At the first stage, the solvents contained in it evaporate from the varnish, due to which the thickness of the varnish layer decreases, and the surface becomes viscous.

To apply varnish, you can use a brush, roller or applicator. Using any of these tools, the varnish should be gently rubbed into the wood, being careful not to sag and drip.

At the second stage, the varnish dries so much that dust and small hairs do not stick to it, and with a light touch with a finger, no marks remain.

However, if you press on the varnish with your finger, a mark will remain on it. At the third stage, while continuing to dry, the varnish completely hardens, turning into a hard film.

Then you can start polishing. The process should be carried out using a polishing machine (fig. 38) with a pad having fine steel filaments. After that, the next coat of varnish can be applied.

After the floor has been varnished, you need to wait another day, after which you can install skirting boards, door stops, furniture, etc.

Rice. 38. Polishing machine

Possible defects of the varnish coating and how to eliminate them

When varnish is applied to the floor, all kinds of coating defects can occur: poor drying of the varnish, whitish beads, swelling and peeling of the varnish layer, etc.

Poor drying of varnish

The reasons for this can be different. For example, often the varnish dries poorly due to the fact that the floor surface was poorly sanded and dust-free. This is especially true for parquet floors, from which it can be very difficult to remove the remnants of the mastic.

Another reason for poor drying of the varnish can also be a low room temperature (below 10 ° C) or simply a cold floor surface. In this case, the problem is solved quite simply: you just need to heat the air in the room to about 20 ° C, and the varnish will dry quickly.

In this case, the room temperature should be increased and the room should be ventilated more often.

The varnish can dry poorly even if a two-component varnish is used, to which the hardener is added in an insufficient amount or poorly mixed.

In the absence or insufficient amount of hardener, nothing can be corrected. You have to remove the varnish layer, re-grind the surface and reapply the varnish. If the hardener was poorly matched to the varnish, you can apply a suitable hardener to the varnish with a brush. Then, if the varnish does dry out, its layer must be carefully polished.

A varnish made on the basis of urethane or alkyd oil resins practically does not dry if it is applied to floors made of teak, olive and some other exotic species.

As a rule, most varnishes smell unpleasant, and their fumes can even be poisonous, so rooms in which the floors were varnished are usually ventilated. Recently, varnishes have appeared that do not have toxic fumes, which is why they often forget to ventilate the room. It can also cause the varnish to dry poorly. It is enough just to open the window in the room - and the varnish will begin to dry.

White nodules

There may be several reasons for this defect:

- the varnish is not warmed up well enough;

- the room has too high air humidity and low temperature of the floor surface;

- high humidity of the room itself (as a rule, it is observed in a newly built house).

Before that, you should warm up the room, increase the surface temperature of the floors themselves and lower the humidity.

Peeling or swelling of the varnish layer

- low speed of work, due to which the areas already covered with varnish have time to dry before the varnish is applied side by side, and there is not sufficient adhesion between adjacent varnish films.

In order to avoid this defect, the following rules must be observed during work:

- increase the pace of work in order to quickly varnish adjacent areas;

- to reduce the air temperature in the room, which will help to reduce the drying rate of the varnish film.

The appearance of bubbles

The reason for their formation may be an incorrectly chosen varnish application tool, insufficiently heated varnish, or exposure to sunlight on a wet varnish. In addition, bubbles can form if the varnish is applied thickly on the floor. In this case, the varnish dries, a film forms on its surface, and the solvent has not yet had time to evaporate and solidifies in the form of bubbles.

For whatever reason bubbles are formed, there is only one way to eliminate them: it is necessary to polish the surface of the film and reapply the varnish in a thinner layer.