Fundamentals of color - color theory. The transition from one color to another, or Theory of color for beginner hairdressers. How to properly dye your hair using the color technique

25.04.2019

From ancient times to the present day, color has been an integral part of human life. Color can control our attention, draw attention to the main thing, distracting from the secondary, or vice versa. This material talks about color theory and harmonious combinations, perception and psychological characteristics of different colors.

Coloring. The color theory of W. Ostwald.

From ancient times to the present day, color has been an integral part of human life. Turning to the art of past centuries, we see that man was in constant search of refined color solutions. Color has always been a way of artistic self-expression of this or that people. Color can control our attention, draw attention to the main thing, distracting from the secondary, or vice versa.

Created the first coherent color system Leonardo da Vinci. He not only established that the variety of color can be limited: " simple flowers six: white, yellow, green, blue, red and black" - but also identified two possible aspects of colors: artistic and physical.

famous german poet Johann Wolfgang Goethe created a huge (1400 pages) "Work on the nature of color" and he himself valued it above all his poetic works. Goethe considered color in a complex way, taking into account the psychological and physiological aspects.

coloring (from lat. color - color, paint)- the science of color, including knowledge about the nature of color, primary, secondary and complementary colors, color characteristics, color contrasts, color mixing, coloring, color harmony, color culture and color language.

coloring

One of the most important means of emotional and artistic expression is color.

coloring- this is a system of color correlation, which forms a kind of unity and is an aesthetic expression of the colorful diversity of reality.

The nature color combinations the color can be calm or tense, cold or warm, light or dark, and according to the degree of saturation and color strength - bright, restrained, faded, etc. In any work of art (which is the costume) color is formed by a complex and unique interaction of colors.

Color characterizes not only the aesthetic meaning of clothing, but also its symbolic meaning that unites people. Our eyes are able to distinguish great amount colors. But all this variety is divided into only two groups: achromatic (i.e. unpainted) - black, white and their mixture - gray; chromatic (i.e. colored) are all other colors and shades. In order to competently and harmoniously combine colors in a suit, the designer must know their main characteristics.

Characteristics of chromatic colors

1. Hue is the presence of impurities in one color of another. Hue characterizes the difference between one color and another.

Example
AT raspberry color blue is present, and yellow is present in red-orange. Thus, these colors are obtained by mixing two colors: in the first case, red and blue, in the second, red and yellow. This means that the tone of these two colors is different.

2. Saturation is the presence of pure pigment in a color (eg rich blue, rich green, etc.).

3. Lightness is the presence of a white or black pigment in a color. by the most light color is white, the darkest is black.

Example
The same color tones, taken in different light ratios, produce a different emotional impression. The addition of black to the color creates a feeling of heaviness, and the same color with the addition of white seems light, joyful and tender.

The more colors differ from each other in lightness, saturation and color tone the less they harmonize with each other.

Theory of color separation by W. Ostwald

The whole variety of basic color characteristics was presented by a German scientist W. Ostwald in his theory of color separation. He presented all colors in the form of a closed color body, consisting of two cones united by a common base. The single axis of the cones is an achromatic series: the top point is White color, lower - black.

Around the circumference of the base are the most saturated spectral colors (colors of the rainbow), which are arranged in a certain sequence: red - orange - yellow - green - blue - indigo - violet. (You probably remember the playful patter in which the first letter of each word is the first letter of the color name: "Every hunter wants to know where the pheasant sits.")

Color circle

Based on this figure, a color circle - one of color harmonies. The color wheel is built on contrasting pairs (red - green, yellow - blue), or on four primary colors located at the ends of the diameters of the circle. Between the primary colors are streamers of intermediate colors (from yellow to red, from red to blue, from blue to green, from green to yellow).

If we divide the color wheel by primary colors into four quarters, then each will have its own harmony of related colors. Let's look at each of them.

Upper right quarter (I). In it, the yellow color gradually turns into red.

Lower right quarter (II). It turns red into blue.

Lower left quarter (III). Blue turns to green.

Upper left quarter (IV). Green turns to yellow.

If we pay attention to each quarter, we will see that within each quarter there are related colors. And if you take the right and left halves of the circle separately, then the color combinations will already be related and contrasting.

Related color combinations- this is a restrained and balanced color scheme, there are no sharp contrasts in it.

Combinations related- contrasting colors - These are combinations of related colors and contrasting pairs. They are brighter and give more wide opportunities for creativity.

But when combining related-contrasting colors, you need to be careful. Ideal combinations are combinations of two colors in which the number of unifying main color and the number of contrasting main colors are the same.

Combinations of two colors, which are located in a circle at the ends of vertical and horizontal chords, have a special harmony.

Now we conditionally divide the circle into upper and lower halves. In the upper half is all the warm scale, in the bottom - all the cold.

Harmonious color combinations

As mentioned earlier, the color wheel is built on two contrasting pairs located opposite each other (red - green, yellow - blue).

There are harmony of contrasting colors. If we draw diameters through the center of the circle, continue from red to green, we will see that each shade of red corresponds to a certain shade of green. But in design, combinations of two colors are quite rare. Combinations of three colors are considered the most expressive.

Consider several options for a harmonious combination of three colors.

1. Harmony is formed by a combination of colors located at the vertices of an equilateral triangle inscribed in a circle, in which one vertex is the main color, and the opposite side is a vertical or horizontal chord.

2. Harmony is made up of colors located at the vertices of right-angled triangles, in which the hypotenuses are the diameters of the circle, and the legs are vertical or horizontal chords.

3. Harmony is made up of colors located at the vertices of obtuse triangles, in which the apex of an obtuse angle is one of the main colors, and the opposite side is a vertical or horizontal chord.

4. In addition, there are also combinations of four related-contrasting colors. You can get such harmonies by inscribing a rectangle in a circle. The colors located at the ends of the diagonals of the rectangle are contrasting, the other pairs are related-contrasting.

The impact of colors

We have already said that color has a symbolic meaning and serves as a means of self-expression. In addition, color also has a strong psychological impact. Goethe noticed that different colors cause a certain state of mind: yellow causes joy, blue evokes sadness, green calms.

Already in ancient times, colors had a symbolic meaning. So, white was assigned to the aristocracy, and green, gray and brown colors were the usual colors of the villagers. Black, purple, dark green and gray expressed sadness.

When designing a suit, the designer must always remember that the suit is the closest household item to a person. When we put on clothes, we often unconsciously form a certain mood in ourselves.

Certainly, color is integral element costume shapes. With the help of color, we are able to obtain additional aesthetic information about the function of the costume, about its purpose for a particular social or age group, etc.

In addition, color is a signal of our personality, reflecting our attitude, lifestyle and temperament.

Example
People who prefer bright colors are sensitive, emotional. If preference is given to neutral colors, then such a person is characterized by strict self-control, pedantry and a low-emotional attitude to the world.

The mental impact of color was formed and developed along with the evolution of man. For millennia, certain relationships of colors with living conditions have formed in the minds of people.

Colors were symbols of life and death, joy and sorrow. But different peoples the same color served to express different emotions.

Example
In Europeans, white represents purity and innocence, while in Japan white clothes- a symbol of mourning.

Perception of colors

Emotional perception is just as complex and multifaceted. So, we perceive the colors of fire and sun (red and orange) as warm, and the colors of water and ice (blue and blue) are cold. All light colors seem to us light and airy, while dark colors seem heavy and solid.

When choosing the color of a party suit, remember that under artificial lighting, colors change their characteristics. So, in low light, orange and red colors fade, "extinguish", and blue and blue-green become more active and bright, in poor twilight light, red and orange become deeper and seem to fade into the background, while green and blue, on the contrary, brighten. and come to the fore.

Warm, fresh, pure colors evoke a feeling of joy, cheerfulness and well-being (these are golden, yellow, orange, and pink), cold and low-saturated colors seem sad, sad and dull.

It has long been known that people's reactions to color are very similar and that colors have quite objective properties, knowledge of which will help to correctly select and harmoniously combine colors with each other, achieving the desired image with the help of clothing.

Color Meanings

- Red color in clothes reflects readiness for action, impulsiveness, authority. It has a positive effect if it makes up no more than 50% of the entire appearance.
- Blue colour gives solidity, confidence, spirituality and adherence to traditions.
- Yellow introduces sociability, inconstancy into the costume. Tiresome in large quantities. In combination with gray and blue creates an effect of intelligence.
- Dark green color is stability, creditworthiness, conservatism.
- clothes in brown tones evokes a feeling of trust, stability, predictability.
- Light gray the suit is restraint and intelligence. Gray combined with pink - elegance.
- White creates distance, so business suit must be used with caution.

Of course, a person has a huge number of shades of mood, and the number of color shades is just as large. Many artists turned to the problem of the impact of color on the psyche and even tried to build theories on how to create certain colors using a color solution. emotional states.

Emotional and psychological characteristics of color

- If you are creating an ensemble of two or more light shades, make sure that one of them is dominant, otherwise your image will be blurry.
- White is considered a chameleon color: it is easily combined with all other colors.
- It should be remembered that the pink color is full. It is better to use it for decoration, and choose a darker one as the main tone.
- Do not allow borders between color, texture or fabric pattern in the place that you would like to hide.

At the end of the lesson, we note that modern fashion very democratic and has no preference for any color. A huge number of new colors appear: the color of metal, silver, gold, old bronze, soap bubbles, shiny surfaces and luminous "acid" colors. Each designer prefers one color or another and has his own color strategy.

Example
Japanese designer I. Miyake uses only "joyful" colors. He believes that clothes should evoke positive emotions and joy. French couturier C. Lacroix possesses a rare coloristic gift. In his models, he uses unexpected combinations of fabrics, patterns and textures.

Choosing individual colors, shades and combinations, the designer gives the costume a certain emotional coloring: festive, businesslike, sad or tragic. As we have repeatedly said, modern fashion does not dictate, but recommends. Therefore, when choosing a color scheme, consult the fashion trend, but give preference to the color scheme that suits you the most.

An article on the topic: "hair coloring. technique for mixing paints and colors. coloring rules" from professionals.

Most women are constantly striving for change - haircuts, perms, hair color changes. The latter is the most relevant, because the constant shade of the strands bothers, and over time loses its depth and brilliance.

However, there are also such women of fashion who are tired of even the classic monochromatic coloring, or they themselves do not know what they want - light strands or dark, or all at once. It is in this case that the coloring of the hair saves.

Combining competently different colors, your hair will look stylish and harmonious.

Basic concepts of color

Weight of coloring variations

Coloring is a method of dyeing hair that uses several colors and their shades, of which there must be at least two.

Among the main advantages are the following:

Gives hair a fresh look and feel.
It is able to emphasize the character of the hair, and rejuvenate the owner for a couple of years.
Emphasizes and refreshes classic haircut making it complete.
Can reshape the face.
Visually increases the volume of styling, especially if the hair is thin.
Hides the imperfections of the face and is able to emphasize the expressiveness of the eyes.
Suitable for strands of any length - short, medium or long curls, with well-carried out coloring, they will look amazing.

Theoretical basis

The theory of hair color is primarily based on the study of the color wheel and the laws of subtractive color mixing. It is based on three primary colors - blue, yellow and red, which, when mixed, give additional colors.

So by mixing:

red and yellow can get orange;
blue and red - purple;
blue and yellow-green are all secondary colors.

Tertiary ones come out when secondary ones are combined with primary ones, etc.

primary colors

When studying the basics of color in hair coloring, a color wheel with a limited number of colors is used to simplify work and understand it. Basically, these are primary, secondary and tertiary colors with 12 sectors of a variety of ways of execution.

Creating Secondary Colors

So, if you mix 3 primary tones in equal amounts, then the result is a neutral shade - gray or black.

Important! In coloring, a series of natural pigment strands is taken as a neutral (achromatic) scale. Therefore, all the laws of color neutralization converge to one goal - to obtain a neutral natural pigment.

Also, neutralization occurs if you mix shades in equal amounts that are opposite each other in the color wheel.

Formation of tertiary shades

The neutralization technique is used to combat unwanted shades of strands. But, as practice shows, complementary colors are almost never used in equal amounts. They are added to a small amount- so the brightness of the unwanted hue is muted without the formation of a gray tone.

Color neutralization

On a note! In general, the instruction for achieving a good result is as simple as five cents and boils down to the following equation: the existing strand pigment (lightening background) + Artificial pigment = Final hair shade.

But in order to solve the problem correctly, it is very important:

Determine exactly how deep the tone is.
Select the desired shade.
Determine if lightening is required.
Find out if neutralization is required, and decide on a neutralizing tone.

Color spectrum

A hair colorist can use even 15 shades to achieve a good result. At the same time, the hair is divided into zones, and each individual strand is dyed according to a predetermined plan. The price of such work is quite high, since it is a laborious and rather complicated process.

Advice! When choosing a colorist, try to pay attention to his work experience, because a real colorist must have real skill, this is the only way to achieve the desired visual effect with a smooth color transition, and not ridiculous contrast differences.

Ombre is the most fashionable in recent times coloring option

In the event that your goal is to refresh thin dull strands, it is better to carry out the procedure within the same color. Basically, a natural pigment is taken and a composition is built on the basis of it - dark or light.

The transitions from dark to light tone look intriguing, which are replaced, starting from the root and ending with the tips. Especially today, ombre and California coloring are very popular, creating the effect of burnt hair. Single thin strands also look unusual, which contrast with the main shade of the hair.

In general, when choosing shades, it is necessary to take into account the color type of appearance:

Fair-haired beauties will suit shades of brown or red palette.
For brown-haired women and brunettes, cyclamen, coral and other shades of red are most suitable for brunettes and brown-haired women.
Red curls will also look new if you add a coffee, copper, golden hue.

Hairdresser on hair can create whole pictures

It is important to take into account the age of the woman. So, for older ladies it is better to choose shades in one related range.

Too bright unnatural tones are out of place here. A bright, smooth overflow of color will give a woman charm and elegance.

At different lengths of strands, the same coloring looks completely different. On short ones, the coloring looks more clear, on long ones patterns will appear. It looks especially attractive in a variety of weaves - an ordinary spikelet will play in a completely new way if you make such a painting.

Methods for the procedure

Hair coloring and coloring is done with various dyes.

Basically, they are divided into five main groups:

Different coloring agents have different effects and functions.

Permanent dyes – aggressive means, which completely replace the natural pigment of the strands.
Semi-permanent dyes- compared to permanent ones, they act less aggressively, while not affecting the natural shade of the hair.
Lightening dyes– their function is to brighten dark curls completely removing the natural pigment. Very traumatize the hair, making them brittle and dry.
Tint products - wonderful option for everyone who wants to change the shade for a short time. At the same time, the curls remain in the same state, and only the upper shell of the hair is dyed.
natural dyes- with their help, you can achieve light shades, and at the same time curls are also nourished useful substances. To natural dyes include chamomile, henna, tea leaf, basma, sage, coffee, etc.

If we talk about technology, then there are longitudinal and transverse staining methods.

With the longitudinal method, the coloring agent is applied along the entire length of the strands.

The transverse method is considered more progressive - the strand is visually divided into several parts and painted in different tones. The master's virtuosity and subtlety of taste are above all here.

Do not colorize yourself

Despite the fact that using modern coloring agents at home is convenient and simple, you should not even try to do coloring with your own hands. Although at first glance everything seems easy and simple and there are no difficulties, in reality we have a completely different situation. Experiments lead to a ridiculous and even funny appearance.

Carrying out coloring with your own hands is a risky step

That is why it is better to entrust your hair to professionals who will make a competent selection of shades, and coloring will be carried out in accordance with all the rules. At the same time, taking into account the mass of those subtleties that a specially trained person cannot even guess about.

What can we say about the correspondence of shades with the color of the eyes, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, and with the general type of appearance. Therefore, it is better not to even try to carry out coloring on your own, because if you are not a hairdresser, you are unlikely to achieve that stunning effect, and it’s good if your experiments can be corrected!

Results

Having chosen the right colors and correctly carried out the procedure, you can be satisfied with the result for a long time.

Hair coloring is not just coloring, it is a whole science with its own rules and subtleties. Only truly gifted hairdressers can master this skill. Turning to those, your hair will sparkle with new colors, and the image will become lively.

If you want to change your image by coloring, then you will learn more about this by watching the video in this article.

If you want to thank, add a clarification or objection, ask the author a question - add a comment!

Hair coloring - fashionable way color changes of curls. When it is carried out, many shades are often used that have one gamut.

Coloring is often used by the fair sex. After all, in this way they try to look attractive, bright, not like others.

In the article we will analyze this new direction in hairdressing using photo and video materials.

Coloring - what is it?

Coloring has another name - color science. It is a science that is important to know in order to correctly match colors.

The basis of science is the Oswald circle. It is based on the laws of the formation of shades, the process of creating colors for coloring.

The circle will tell you the principles of forming a new color, taking into account the tone of the hair, will help you choose colors that are in harmony with each other and with the external data of the client. Training can be done via video.

Primary colors

Oswald's circle contains in the basis of 3 main tones, which are considered primary: red, blue, yellow. If these colors are mixed together, you can get any other tone.

Of these, blue is considered a strong color. If this cold tone mixed with other shades, you can achieve a dark, deep shade.

Red is the second most powerful color after blue. When added to blues, the colors will appear lighter.

If you mix it with colors made on the basis of yellow tones, then the shade will be dark.

The weakest is yellow.

It can be added to all shades, making the tone lighter.

secondary colors

Secondary tones can be composed by mixing primary tones in equal parts.

So, orange can be obtained by combining yellow-red.

If you mix blue and red, it will be purple. Green is obtained by mixing yellow with blue.

Tertiary tones

A tertiary tone can be obtained by mixing primary and secondary colors. Thus, you can get red-orange, yellow-green, yellow-orange, blue-green, blue-violet.

All other colors are considered complex. They are obtained by connecting various colors, shades.

When studying the science of color, only a part of the colors that are located on the circle are used. So you can quickly understand the principles of mixing shades.

The Oswald circle contains primary, secondary, tertiary tones located on the sectors of the circle.

Primary shades are located at an equal distance from each other. The angle between them is 120 degrees. All other colors are located between primary.

Video training involves the use and skillful combination of shades.

You should know about the primary colors - if you mix them in equal proportions, you can get a neutral (achromatic) tone as a result, as in the photo.

Color saturation affects black or gray tones. This property primary colors makes it possible to remove the color that did not work when stained. In the same way, you can return the curls to their natural color.

To get a neutral tone with a circle, you can use more than just primary colors.

Those tones that are located opposite each other relative to the center can also create a neutral tone.

Such shades are called complementary or complementary. So, the same tone can be obtained by mixing green-red or blue-orange.

Application of color

Knowledge of the science of coloring makes it possible to show imagination, creating vivid images, playing with the tone of curls. Mixing colors will help you choose an individual style that is different from others.

Coloring strands in various shades can be applied to hair of any length. Short haircuts, medium length, long curls will gain expressiveness and brightness.

The photo shows an example of staining curls.

But not only highlight the beauty of hair or haircuts with a combination of colors.

Combining certain tones, you can correct the shape of the head, face, highlight bright facial features, mask imperfections.

The leading role is assigned to the main color, it must be in harmony with skin tone, eye color.

The remaining tones will complement and create a fashionable look.

Another fashionable direction in coloring has appeared. It's called "hair manicure". Despite the fact that they have been used not so long ago, the direction has gained great popularity.

The essence of the staining method is in the preparation of the coloring composition. The paint contains only natural coloring ingredients mixed with a nourishing mask.

To give curls various colors using natural pigments. They are obtained from food extracts.

After staining, the curls receive the desired shade. Together with that natural ingredients feed them with nutrients.

After such a procedure, the strands will look elastic, shiny, healthy for a long time.

Performing such coloring, there is no need to visit the salon or hairdresser often to update the colors.

It is enough to support coloring several times a year, and the hairstyle will always be in excellent condition.

Despite the fact that the color of the hair shapes the style of the hairstyle with any length, it is important to know the sense of proportion when choosing shades.

The color palette must match certain type, color, shape of eyes, hair. Otherwise, people will find resemblance to a parrot.

He will evaluate the appearance of the client, his physical parameters and as a result, he will select shades that will decorate a person. All flaws will be skillfully disguised.

After watching the video, you can get trained yourself and see how skillfully the masters change the image, make the client fashionable, stylish.

Applying coloring compositions to strands is quite simple, but when coloring, it is important to follow all the stages of coloring. You can follow the steps in the video.

Only a professional will be able to fulfill all the technological conditions, go through all the necessary stages in order to qualitatively change the style of the client.

In the process of coloring, the client can accept Active participation. After all, a personal sense of color is important when choosing shades.

The client will tell you what shades he would like to see on his hair. The wizard will analyze all the data and suggest the best option.

When carrying out staining, the specialist divides all the curls into certain zones. In turn, each zone is divided into strands, after which it is exposed to the coloring composition.

When coloring, the number of shades can reach twelve, so the professionalism of the stylist is extremely important in this coloring.

Color types and coloring

In order for the dyed hairstyle to look harmonious, when choosing colors, it is important to take into account the color type of the client:

fair-haired girls will suit the tones of red, brown shades;
brown-haired women, brunettes will look attractive if their strands are painted in tones of coral, cyclamen, and other shades of red;
redheads should choose coffee, golden, copper tones.

When coloring curls, it is important to take into account the age of the client. The method of applying paint, the choice of tones will depend on this.

But with unnatural colors, an aged lady will look at least strange.

Hair length plays important role in color. The same type of staining will look completely different on short haircut and on long strands.

The transition from one tone to another should look as natural as possible. Only in this way will the desired effect be produced. Contrasting tones should be chosen carefully so that the hairstyle does not look tasteless, flashy;
When dyeing thin hair, it is better to choose a color close to the “native” for the base. All other shades should vary in the direction of darkening or lightening from the main tone;
If you need to create additional shine, radiation from curls, then it is recommended to stain from dark tones to light, moving to the ends of the strands. There is an additional plus in this technique - regrown roots will not be evident, so new staining will not need to be carried out soon. How to carry out such staining is shown in the video;
After the procedure, it is important to properly care for the strands. For this, it is recommended to use special products whose action is aimed at improving the strands and preserving color. Most often, these are professional formulations that gently cleanse and nourish curls.

When to mix and when not

Coloring requires some experience. If you have never worked with professional dyes at home before, it is better to put aside the complicated mixing process and practice with simple flowers. But even if you have been doing staining with your own hands for a long time, the process should be approached with caution.

Mixing colors is not always acceptable.

Do not mix colors of different series. The fact is that different dyes do not have the same mechanism of action and therefore it is impossible to predict the final result. It is better to always take funds from the same series - they are guaranteed to be compatible.

It is better not to experiment with ready-made tones. For each series of Estelle paints, there is a table of colors that are basic. It can be shades of brown, black or light brown. They can be corrected with colored pigments, but not mixed with each other.

Don't mix tones if you can't imagine the result. There are many ready-made schemes that give a guaranteed effect.

How to choose paint colors for mixing?

To correct the tone, color pigments are added to the composition. Usually they have unusual tones: red, blue, purple and others. The fact is that such radical shades interrupt the colors opposite to them.

To get rid of the redhead, you need to add a blue pigment to the dye mixture.

The copper sheen will disappear when green paint is added.

Unwanted yellowness in blondes will be blocked by a purple dye.

If you want the color to be warmer, you should add a yellow or orange pigment.

The more corrector you add to the color mixture, the more it will affect the result. For example, to get a cold ash color, you need to add purple and blue pigments to the paint, and the brighter the original red hair, the more of them should be in the composition.

In 60 grams of base paint, you need to add 4 grams of corrector to dilute the color. If you want to get an interesting tint, for example, a blue sheen on dark hair, the amount of corrector increases to 10 grams.

Ready-made schemes for preparing paint with a corrector can be taken from the Estel table. To find necessary funds in the store, be guided by the numbers in the catalog of paints and tubes.

Add oxygen

After mixing the basic paints, they are diluted with oxygen and activating capsules are added. Oxygen is needed to lighten hair, which guarantees even coloring.

Understanding what oxygen you need is quite simple: the higher its percentage, the more it will lighten the hair.

Remember, since coloring always starts at the roots, they will be lightened 2-3 tones more than the rest of the hair.

Plan B: if something goes wrong

If, as a result of mixing paints, you did not get the effect that you expected, in no case should you panic and grab the clarifier. You will damage your hair more and get dirty color. It is better to contact a professional for tone correction - he will be able to explain to you the mistakes in preparing the mixture and return them to your hair. natural color. You just have to organize complete care that will keep them healthy.

Listen to the master's answers to your questions in order to avoid missteps in the next independent attempt.

Do you dye your hair yourself or go to a master? What paint do you prefer to use? Have you tried mixing paints yourself? Please share your feedback on the results and tips for successful blending!

Modern hairdressing coloring is the art of color modeling. Hair color can spice up and enhance many hairstyles. It is delightful and pleasant if the desired color comes out exactly. Our handy hairdresser's guide to changing hair tone will surely help you avoid numerous mistakes.

Basic color system

Without exception, all the tones found in nature are a combination of 3 key colors: blue, red and yellow. From these pigments, without exception, all familiar tones are made, except for black and white.

Our skin and hair tone is made up of different combinations and ratios of blue, red and yellow.

Blue is a single cold base tone, while red and yellow are warm.

When tinting hair, it is important to understand that the key pigments differ in molecular volumes and have different weight. The theory of color for hairdressers says that blue has the largest molecular volume and weight of the pigment, followed by red and yellow.

Although blue is the largest, it is not difficult to remove it when staining. Blue molecules are located closer to the cuticle, while red molecules are deeper in the cortex and are more difficult to remove. The most difficult thing is to get away from yellow, which is located deep in the cortex of the hair. This is why red and yellow tones are more difficult to remove during lightening.

How to connect colors

The colors of the spectrum are displayed in a circle, which is used in the basic theory of color for hairdressers. It shows how one tone flows into another. It can be used to determine how the tone of the hair will look, as well as how to correct unwanted tones and perfectly toned curls. With the support of the circle, you can achieve optimal color combinations and smoothly transition from one nuance to another.

Red, blue, yellow are key tones.
Purple, green, orange are secondary.
Red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-greenish, yellow-greenish, yellow-orange - tertiary tones.
Yellow and purple, blue and orange, red and green - neutralize each other.

Secondary tones consist of a combination of two key colors. The theory of color for hairdressers notes that in order to create secondary tones, it is necessary to find out the midpoint between the two main colors on the color wheel. Thus, for example, the tone between red and indigo on the color wheel is violet. The color between red and gold is bright orange, and between amber and blue is green.

Tertiary tones come from combinations of primary and secondary colors. Looking at the color wheel, you can understand that yellow-orange is considered a tertiary color, since it is located between the main color (yellow) and the secondary color (orange).

Color theory for hairdressers shows that neutralizing colors, when combined, tend to form brown. They are in pairs of opposites on the color wheel, thus red and green, blue and bright orange, yellow and lilac. These tones balance each other and can be used to correct coloring errors. For example, if the tone contains unnecessary crimson tones, then green can be used to neutralize it. Lilac tonics work in a similar way to neutralize yellowness on bleached hair. It is very important to take into account the depth of tone. So, 2 tones should be of the same saturation and balance each other.

For example, take a purple toner for bleached hair. If you apply too deep a tone, then the curls will become lilac, and if the tone is very light, then the curls will have a yellowish tint. As a rule, it is better to miss on the second side, since it is easier to complement the tone than to take it away.

Also mixing two neutralizing colors such as red and green produces brown.

The transition from one color to another, or Theory of color for beginner hairdressers

For example, let's take bright red hair that needs to be painted green. And if you do it with a sharp green dye, the result can be brown or greenish brown. Therefore, a gradual change will quickly lead to the final full color. It is much easier to compensate for one tone with another, which is located next to it on a multi-colored wheel.

The initial tone of red and the expected color of forest green are almost opposite. If you gradually switch from scarlet to greenish, then there are 2 ways:

Red - red-orange - bright orange - orange - yellow - yellow-greenish - green.
Red - Red-lilac - blue-lilac - blue - blue-greenish - green.

So, in each route there are 6 steps. How to choose the right one? It all depends on the nuance of green that is needed. Thus, if you want a dark green tone that contains cyan tones, it's easier to work your way through lilac and blue. And if pale green is needed, then the first path will be more successful.

With the help of the color wheel it is possible to make beautiful and precise compositions. Maximum contrast is achieved using colors on the reverse faces of the circle:

green and red;
purple and yellow;
orange and blue;
blue-green and red-orange;
yellow-green and red-violet;
yellow-orange and blue-violet.

At the same time, when mixed, these colors will produce brown, which is also a secondary color.

To avoid unwanted dirty bindings, one should use common color. It is determined at their intersection. For example, purple is made up of blue and red, and green is made up of blue and yellow, and their common color blue is perfect color to be used as a buffer between green and purple. Putting this color between them can give you the perfect result that will help you transition smoothly.

These are the basic principles of color for hairdressers, and the theories of "Londa", "Estelle" and "Matrix" are based on these general sections.

Using colors to create depth

By selecting 4 or 5 colors from the same range, you can create a depth of tone for stripes and chunks. Let's start with one color, for this example we'll choose purple.

By mixing it in varying proportions with the color next to it on the color wheel, blue or red, you can get a good range to create bright and dim shimmers. For a more adventurous option, shades are chosen on either side of the base color and mixed in varying proportions. So, purple can be mixed with blue and red to get blue-violet. And at the same time, if you add blue and red stripes, it will destroy the effect.

"Estelle"

The theory of color for hairdressers using the products of this brand is as follows:

For coloring, the consumption of paint for hair of medium thickness and length up to 15 cm is 60 g.

Ratios:

dark nuances (levels 1-7) - 1 hour Estel Sense de Lux dye + 2 hours 3% De Lux activator.
light nuances (level 8-10) - 1 hour Estel Sense de Lux dye + 2 hours 1.5% De Lux activator.

Color correctors are used to remove unwanted nuance, toned down, and to enhance color aspect. Ammonia corrector is used to lighten the dye and cosmetic base. The intermediate corrector stretches the pigment along the light line; it is possible to use it for active toning with multi-colored correctors. To deepen the color aspect, add up to 13 hours per 30 g of paint.

Tone Depth Level

Brunette - 1, 2.
Brown hair - 3, 4.
Light brown - 5, 6.
Blond - 7, 8.
Light blonde - 9, 10.

Oxidizer:

Lightening by 1 tone - 3%.
Tone on tone - 3%.
For dark tones - 3%.
Blonde toning - 3%.
For 2 tones - 6%.
Red and copper colors - 6%.
Gray hair - 6%.
Lightening by 3 tones - 9%.
Gray hair on coarse hair and glass gray hair - 9%.
Lightening by 4 tones - 12%.

The company conducts seminars and training courses, where the basics of working with Estel products, the theory of color for beginner hairdressers are taught in depth. There are also many free videos about this topic on the Internet.

matrix

The brief theory of "Matrix" (coloring for hairdressers) also deserves attention. Matrix has a gentle effect and is an ammonia-free dye. This line is used to form a fresh tone on natural and unbleached strands. And it can also correct the tone. It contains ceramides that remodel the spongy texture, allowing you to uniformly color the strands and add natural shine.

There are several product groups:

Extra - semi-permanent dye, which is used for in-depth painting gray hair. The color scheme consists of six tones and an oxidizing agent. The dye stays on for a long time. Strands after staining will become tender and radiant.
Beauty - made for dyeing natural shade and gray hair. Caring ensemble with oils and latest formula do not allow the texture to be damaged. The color scheme of this series consists of 58 nuances. They can be combined to obtain fresh solutions. The tone of the hair is made spectacular, looks at ease, intense. The color of the paint can be chosen according to your color type.
Matrix SoRED - the series presents colorful creative colors. Paint is allowed to highlight curls. The color result lasts up to 20 washes.
V-light - bleaching powder. The group is well suited for deep clarification, and in addition, for highlighting. Curls can be bleached in 7 steps. Despite the fact that the powder has a strong effect on curls, it contains panthenol, which protects against overdrying. The result of its use will depend on the initial shade.
Master - accelerated whitening pigment. By using this tool curls can be bleached in 8 steps.

"Matrix" has created a separate palette, which includes more than 50 colors.

color guide

According to the theory and basics of color for hairdressers, before embarking on any chemical treatment, you need to make sure that the hair is in good condition. It will also be better if you color the curls two tones lighter or darker from the natural color.

Semi permanent hair color is an easy way to create subtle changes. In this way, it is easy to fill in unwanted color spots, increase shine and texture without aggressive interference. This color is gradually washed off, and its wearing time is about 4-6 weeks. Semi permanent can only darken hair and will only temporarily tint gray hair. This technique allows you to tame curly strands, make them healthier and, of course, is the most gentle and sparing procedure.

Permanent hair color will help to get resistant paint. It destroys the cuticle and pigment deposits in the shaft. Unlike semi-permanent, this method can be used to lighten hair. This is achieved by bleaching the hair and adding color in one step. Permanent hair color is more effective for covering gray hair. Although the color will wash out over time, it cannot be washed out or removed completely. Permanent color can be destructive, and long-term use of permanent dyes can lead to an irreversible harmful process. Careful care and vitaminization will help protect your hair from damage as much as possible.

Hair bleaching

Hair bleaching almost always occurs in two stages. First, the hair is bleached to remove the natural pigment, and then a tonic is used to achieve the desired shade. This double process is quite rough on the hair and is very harmful.

This is a labor intensive process. After the procedure, the hair becomes so fragile that you need to be especially careful when choosing styling products and use protective oils and creams. It is not recommended to dry such hair with a hair dryer, curl it with a curling iron or use a straightener. After hair treatment with bleach The best way their recovery is the permanent removal of damaged or split ends.

Masters do not advise to conduct experiments with coloring curls in the field of coloring on their own. This operation should be entrusted to a specialist with skill. According to the theory of color for hairdressers, in the task of the master is grade appearance and the image of the client, after which the staining will begin. The master skillfully chooses colors that will decorate a person, and all the minuses will be masked as much as possible.

Laws of color combinations. Caloric in creating an image.

"A well-dressed person is one who considers himself and others"

Pierre Cardin

A harmonious image consists of a combination of colors in clothes, makeup, accessories. If the colors are combined

unsuccessfully, a feeling of “something is not right” in the image is created. In order to be adequately greeted by clothes, it is important to learn

to feel and understand all the nuances of the color palette that nature has given us. The sense of color is

important component of a creative personality.

1 . Golden mean - variety and sense of proportion.

In order not to make a dull impression and make the image complete, 2 to 4 colors should be used.

A monochromatic dark-colored suit requires bright accessories, at least in the form of accents: shoes, a bag, a brooch, a scarf. Bright makeup required. (E. Khromchenko)

Nothing ages a woman like a too rich suit (K. Chanel).

2. Base background (or backgrounds) and accent(s) give the image a finished and stable look.

Four colors are present not equally, but, for example, in such a ratio: two main and two complementary (in accessories: scarf, handbag, gloves, jewelry). An accent can be presented, for example, in the form of an active detail (let it be one: a bright belt emphasizing the waist), a complex cut or color contrast. Complementary base color a less bright and unsaturated transitional one appears - from one tone to another, related to both colors in the color wheel or achromatic.

Monochromatic (or mix with achromatic tones):

nuanced combination - base color and shades close to it.

Veil shadow:

Achromaticity. Monotonous black, unfortunately, is not suitable for everyone. More often, the face of a woman in black (especially light-skinned and light-eyed blondes, brown-haired women) "fades" and looks older.

Universal gray

2. Contrast.

related colors. When a combination of related colors decreases the feeling of their saturation.

Contrast. Polar colors: yellow-violet, red-green, blue-orange.

The combination of contrasting colors allows you to increase the overall saturation.

3 . " In fashion, as in architecture, the main thing isproportions " , - Coco Chanel

The areas of color accents are inversely proportional to their brightness.

Horizontals and verticals in clothes will help change the proportions of the figure.

Emphasis on "problem" areas emphasize the shortcomings.

For example, a light skirt (lighter than the top) will look good on long, slender legs.

A full woman can wear black, which will help her hide her flaws. But you should not forget about the advantages. Add a couple of active elements, for example, in the chest area. (E. Khromchenko)

4. Balance

Equally bright colors of the same temperature can be considered neutral relative to each other. Therefore, all pastels (a lot of white) are combined with each other. This rule applies primarily to sets with polar contrasts.

Add a small handbag to your everyday day dress, large sunglasses and a bright scarf of dense silk.

There is a rule for an evening set: one thing should shine. That is, either a dress or accessories. (E. Khromchenko).

5. Clarity and ease of perception

When the fur thing and the hair begin to merge together, the fur begins to work like your hair. It looks funny. (E. Khromchenko).

My only art is to use scissors to cut and simplify clothing while others complicate it. (Coco Chanel).

Avoid drawings that "ripple".

6. relevance and relevance.

Bright, very open and non-standard things are best worn in hot places, that is, in a resort. They will look great there. (E. Khromchenko).

In fact, all color schemes are just a hint, a help at a time when there is no inspiration, it is only a support. There is no dogma here. Because color for a person is, first of all, a feeling. These are emotions and associations that every color nuance pulls with it. The wider your experience of color perception of the world, the more diverse feelings a color can cause, the more number color combinations that you consider acceptable, interesting, beautiful.

Fundamentals of Caloric. Nature .

Currently, they use a form of color theory, improved German theorist art by Johannes Itten. Since the time of Aristotle, people have tried to somehow arrange all visible colors in a single system and generalize their observations. All systems of color constructions have one goal - to make color knowable, predictable, modelable. Johannes Itten developed "color chords" and changed the color wheel. The circle is based on three primary colors- red, yellow and blue. Composite colors are formed by mixing two main ones (blue + red = purple). complex colors(intermediate, noble) is a mixture of basic and component:

red-orange (saffron),

yellow-orange (amber),

yellow-green (citrus)

blue-green (turquoise),

blue-violet (lilac)

and red-violet (magenta) shades.

Polar the colors are opposite each other. related- border on the color wheel.

The main classification divides all colors into chromatic and achromatic. Achromatic(colorless) are white, black and the whole gamut of shades of gray. To chromatic colors include all colors of the visible spectrum, as well as brown (it is not on the color wheel, because there is no black).

Temperature of colors and shades

Blue, purple can only be conditionally warm or neutral. Neutral colors do not spoil anyone, and if they do not emphasize the natural color, they will not spoil anyone. Cold colors visually make the figure slimmer.

Green \u003d yellow + blue, the more yellow impurities in the color, the warmer its temperature.

Pure black is cooler than brownish black.

Milky white is warmer than snowy or pure white.

And mouse gray is warmer than steel, ashy.

Saturation (intensity, chroma)- color purity/strength, depends on the concentration of the coloring matter. The colors of the circle have the highest saturation.

Brightness expresses the degree of proximity of colors to white or black. Achromatic colors differ only in brightness - light or dark

monochromatic- unity of color tone.

Color combination tables

Color selection. Colors of nature.

The easiest waymake no mistake- use the theory of the seasons: autumn and spring types are warm shades, and winter and summer - cold. The face of a warm color type against the background of cold shades seems pale, tired, wrinkles stand out, the corners of the eyes droop. To a "cold" face, they give brightness, expressiveness, blush and favorably emphasize the eyes. warm tones make a "cold" face painfully yellowish.

Saturated bright colors look more harmonious on contrasting winter and autumn women. Summer and spring faces with weakly pronounced pigmentation are lost and fade against their background.

It is believed that the woman-summer type prevails in Russia. Black color looks spectacular on dark or contrasting winter women (it is cold), it adds age to everyone else and gives a mournful look. Gray hair is considered a cool shade.

The combination of light and related "dull" ones (brown, purple, dark green and blue) will give your look a spring sound. The same "dull" colors in combination with dark ones - autumn-winter.

April 18th, 2014

it's so funny today. I sit doing business, I mow with the other eye on Skype. Girlfriend asked a question correct staining, trying with me to solve pressing problems from the series - I want something like that, but I don’t know what. And I have a principle - first formulate what you want, then I will answer. Therefore, I don’t get into throwing, I nod from time to time and throw up new questions. We finally reached a certain line, we deal with the current color and which paint to choose - i.e. already look shades. I, therefore, look at the links with the girls on the boxes, and she chooses these girls. As a result, I couldn’t stand it, I’m sorry - I won’t go for girls, let’s look for a decoding of the paint encoding. I don't even remember exactly. A friend searched and searched. says - in, look, I found a post here in LiveJournal and a link. And I already see at the address of the link that my post. I was surprised, but I kept quiet. Gru - where did you find this post? and nowhere, he says, Yandex issued. I was pleased. uh...

I will broadcast how to predict shades when coloring

in the previous parts of the saga, we found out that if there is no Master at hand, and only felt-tip pens get confused, you need to approach the choice of paint for home experiments with feeling, sense and placement. Find out your current lightness level (tone depth level) and find out where we are going
- to give a shade without changing the depth (not darker, not lighter, just a shade),
- brighten and tint
- either "darken" and also give a shade

After that we can choose the "paint type". In order to become lighter, we can only choose ammonia paint. If we don’t need it radically, we can do without ammonia and either tint (maybe not even with paint as such) the current level of tone depth (color) to the desired shade, or “darken” also to the desired shade.

Let's deal with the shades first.
when I swore that manufacturers of household paints do not put any information into hint books. I didn't do it in vain. Hues cannot randomly flow from one to another at the behest of the heart. Color, any color, not only in hair, obeys general laws. The general laws were derived by Isho Goethe and created the color wheel. Then it was trimmed and modernized for their needs by both Itten and Oswald and maybe Ivan Ivanovich Ivanov, but about last story is silent. But the color circles of other authors are very successfully used in the world for different color combinations, basically.

coloristics also loves combinations, but it still cannot escape from the physics of color. and colorists really use this layout of the classic color wheel

I emphasize that there is nothing new in this circle-oval. This is a classic color spectrum, where the three primary colors - yellow, blue and red - are closed in a circle through "transitional colors". First I will tell, then I will return to this circle.

What does this circle show us?
- firstly, here are marked numbers with a slash are pigments. These are those that are in the paint encoding after the dot. 5.33 - golden pigment at the 5th level of staining. 3.55 - saturated dark red (some kind of bloody sunset or crimson would fit the description of such a code).

encoding numbers, as we remember, different manufacturers may vary, I even argued how to navigate with a particular manufacturer. So if in the hint book you see a color wheel, numbers and symbols of pigments - this is the most important hint for you on how to choose the color direction.

maybe like this

or in any other way. The main thing is that there is a color wheel and digital or letter designations the main pigments, which will determine the direction of the color (hue) when stained.

Secondly, the color wheel divides the primary and transitional colors into two parts.
yellow-orange-red - warm
purple-blue-green - cold

Thirdly, such a color wheel shows us the possible movements with color.
By big circle arrow goes clockwise

from yellow to orange, then red, purple, and so on. Between them there are still pontaykany machaon, beige, ashy - additional pigments

So you can easily walk between the shades along the color circle in a clockwise direction. Be especially careful when transitioning between warm and cold.
there you are now a golden blonde and you want to paint yourself in a copper dy-dynts, you looked at the arrow - it’s right next to it, it’s coming. Or in red from golden or in machaon - pzhalsta. We add the necessary pigment to our golden one - red, copper - we get what we wanted with a high degree of probability.

and now you have a machaon, but you want a copper one. We looked in a circle, it seems that there are shades nearby, but we will drag ourselves counterclockwise before that. And if clockwise, then go around the whole circle. We will not be able to add yellow and immediately become golden. Those. if you add copper pigment to the current machaon, then you will immediately become copper figurines. Colors don't fade like that. First, the swallowtail must be lime, and then the copper must be applied to the exhausted base.

With cold ones, it’s just that the colors are not so expressively called there and are not visualized in real life.

And it was all about that situation when you chose the paint of your level of lightness (depth of tone), but you want to change the shade. From golden to copper is easy. From copper to become golden by adding a golden pigment will not work. It is necessary to take another paint, harass the copper pigment, add golden.

if you originally wanted to lighten and add new. And you remember about unwanted shades of lightening. And you thought that he would crawl out of you for sure. Again we look at the color wheel and remember that neutralizing colors, correctors, mixtons are opposite each other.
Mikston is the designation of the purest pigment. It can act as a dye and as a neutralizer (corrector)

as a dye pure form- this is such a vigorous saturated color. In coloring, in different creative color stains. crimson hair, blue, etc. The manufacturer of paints in different ready-made versions has already mixed different mixtones for us, received a certain direction of color (shade) and indicated on the box with a letter or number.

as a corrector, you should use these colors from the color wheel, which are opposite each other

The most common with home coloring the trouble is the appearance of various undesirable shades. As we remember good master, this will be taken into account even when staining and immediately add a mixton. The master felt-tip pen will blame the quality of the paint, the client's hormonal surges, bad water, and anything extra. However, a color neutralizer can also be used after staining. Let’s say you took paint for self-coloring, didn’t calculate, yellow crawled out of you - we run to the store in a hat and buy colored shampoo purple. Exactly, friends, shampoo! not a balm, not a tonic, not a tinting paint, but a shampoo of a thick beautiful color)
they are not only purple, because there are more unwanted shades. And there are blue and red to neutralize the green.

The peculiarity of the shampoo is that it is not a paint, it lasts 2-3 washes and gradually fades away.
ash blondes keep such blue-violet shampoos on their shelves to maintain color.

in general, the shampoo will not solve major staining jambs, of course, you should not place serious hopes on it, but it will help to keep some more or less intelligible color until the next dyeing, wait until the hair has moved away from strong oxidants.

well, colored shampoos can be used concentrated for a temporary shade before Halloween. chamois will be washed away. (here the shampoo will act not as a corrector, but as a dye)
but, I repeat, even so I REPEAT! I'm talking about SHAMPOO! not about tonic, not about balm, not about temporary washable paints.

_______________
in the coding of paints in numbers, the direction of color and the mixing of mixtons are indicated in numbers. *.10 ink and *.01 ink are two different colors. Not drastically, of course, but different.

*.10 main pigment blue (blond)
*. 01 - the main pigment is natural, and a little blue is added.

in the situation with *.10, the blue pigment acts as a dye. In a situation with *.01 - as an undesirable shade corrector (in this case orange).

Those. if you want to get light brown shade, then you need to choose a paint with numbering * 10. And if you understand that a redhead will come out when lightening, you need to take *.01.

BUT! all this is beautiful, although a little confusing, works with professional paints and with the Master, who not only understands colorimetry, but also knows what dyes he works with.
with household paints, knowing all this science, we can at least somehow predict the result, but it still remains optional.

true, there are positive side medals. if you delve into colorimetry, apply all the knowledge when choosing a paint, and then nothing comes of it, then you can at least understand how to fix it with small sacrifices (neutralize) or correct your logic and get a more predictable result with further experiments.

________________________________

As promised, I return to the circle.
this is a normal color wheel.

Those. if you see a circle like this

or any other (and such circles can be taken in hardware stores that mix paints for painting work. Or from artists)

so all these circles do not differ in a set of colors. Everywhere yellow turns to green, then to blue, then to red, to orange and again to yellow.

feature is this.
if in a circle from a hardware store we go clockwise, as the color layout and arrows around us tell us, then we will turn red into yellow, yellow through green into blue. And if we go counterclockwise, then red will turn into blue, then through green into yellow.

again and carefully

COUNTERCLOCK-WISE
yellow - orange - red - purple - blue - green - yellow

CLOCKWISE

yellow - green - blue - violet - red - orange - yellow

color circles are built like this

the arrows go clockwise, but we go from yellow to red, and so on.

those. unlike the circle from the hardware store, in which clockwise turns yellow into green.
from the point of view of color theory and all sorts of spectra, a circle is like a circle, but the movements around the circle are different.

we need to remember that if in the paint shop they didn’t slip you a color wheel, but you have a classic one in your purse or phone, then in the classic one we step counterclockwise. And this is a very important note.

remembering who goes where in what state is not necessary. Use visualization.
if you take yellow and red gouache and start mixing it, add lots and lots of red to the yellow and you will eventually beat the yellow completely and get a red color. Those. from yellow it is easy to get red by adding a large number red.
And if you want to get yellow from red? if you add a lot of yellow, then nothing will come of it, and so it will slip either red or orange, pure yellow color you won't succeed.

If you understand better with other colors - draw an analogy yourself. When we look at the color wheel, we choose two pure colors side by side and from one we can get another pure one, which means we apply it with hair. We walk along this circle in a given direction clockwise or counterclockwise.

Clear? or even more confused?