Preparations 

Bathrobe pattern for beginners. How to sew a wrap robe with a shawl collar

Hello. I don’t know about you, but here in Siberia two weeks of brutal heat came right on schedule. Running from store to store, I rushed into the fabric and bought cotton calico for a dressing gown. And on the same day she sewed it.

I filmed the cutting process, though the photos turned out to be darkish for some reason, suddenly, the pencil is hard to see. So I drew on it somewhere. I hope everything will be clear.

Measurements from the figure


Building a back pattern

I fold the fabric in half. From the fold I draw horizontals:

top line- I retreat from the top 4 - 5 cm;

armhole line Back length to waist divided by 2.

Waistline- from the top line down the measure Back length to waist.

If you are unable to measure Back length to waist, for example, you have no one to help, then take height / 4. For example, height 160 - set aside 40 cm for the waistline, and armholes 20 cm.

thigh line- from the waist down Thigh height. Thigh height from 17 to 20 cm, somewhere like that.

And from the waist down the length of the robe skirt. She is not visible in the photo.

Neck.

Along the lines of the chest and hips, I lay off quarters of the girths, plus a small increase. For example, Og \u003d 100, I postpone 25 + 1. On the waistline I make a deflection. If you want to fit the robe, you can even make waist darts.

Shoulder and armhole lines. I lower the shoulder to the top line, and draw the armholes by eye.

I cut out the back. There are no allowances on the neck and armhole, there will be edging.

shelf pattern

  • I put the back on the fabric, pin it. I designate the fold of the back as the center of the front.
  • I raise my shoulder. Start by 1-2 cm (up to size 50 by 1 cm, after - 2 cm), end by 0.5 cm.
  • I raise the side seam by the size of the tuck. In general, you need to focus on the following values:

for sizes 42 - 46: 6 cm;

48 - 50: 7 cm;

52 - 54: 8 cm;

56 and over: 9 cm.

  • I draw the opening arbitrarily, I deepen the bottom more than on the back.

I smell 15 cm.

The tuck goes into the side seam anywhere you draw it.

I cut out the shelf.

I swept it, tried it on, and it turned out that the smell line needs to be made concave.

Sewing

I prepare piping, belts.

  • Darts, shoulder seams.
  • I turn over the top of the smell and the neck; edging armholes.

  • Side seams

I inserted one belt into the side seam at the waistline, the second was sewn to the edge of the shelf.

  • The bottom of the smell just tucked up and stitched.

The side seam is folded over and stitched at the bottom of the armhole.

You can make ties for the inner smell, and I sewed a button.

Turn the bottom of the robe over twice and stitch.

The invoice pocket is also edged.

Here is my wrap-around robe ready. Now I feel more comfortable at home.

From an ordinary terry sheet measuring 180 by 130 cm, you can sew a dressing gown with a hood. There is only one condition - the measurement of the circumference of the hips should not exceed 110cm, otherwise the robe will not fit in width.

The design of the bathrobe is extremely simple and economical: not a single centimeter will go to the rags.

Fold the fabric across and mark the center center line. From it to the left and to the right, set aside ¼ measurements of the circumference of the hips. Mark the length of the product, the length and width of the sleeve, how to do this can be seen in the drawing. Cut the armholes and shoulder seams, cut out two squares measuring 17 by 17 cm - they will go to pockets or gussets if you want to make the sleeves looser. Please note: there is no need to make an incision along a 16 cm long line - the hood and the robe are connected here.

Sew into the armhole. Then stitch the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam at the same time - they continue each other. Sew the corners of the hood and sew the bottom of the hood to the neck. The floors of the dressing gown and the bottom can be edged with braid or hemmed on the machine with a zigzag seam.

The bathrobe can be made long, but then the sheets are not enough, you will have to use the usual terry cloth.

The armhole (the place where the sleeve is sewn to the “body”) is half the width of the sleeve. Naturally, where it says "armhole", you need to make an incision.

As in the designer - cut and folded. There will be no problems at all.

Information for those who like to dress beautifully and fashionably. I found an interesting website http://www.stock-center.ru, this is the official website of the Stock Center chain of stores, which have been leading the market for over ten years. Goods in stores for buyers with low and average earnings, but despite this, the models are very rare, high quality and beautiful. Here you can find branded clothes and at very low prices. Stylish ladies will not be disappointed by visiting the site, there are a lot of not only clothes, but also shoes and other goods. Shopping, as you know, is the best cure for depression, and if it doesn’t hit your pocket, then a great mood boost is guaranteed!

Home clothes should be comfortable and loose, but at the same time, you want them to look no less attractive than the day off. This is especially true of the most common option for the home: a bathrobe. If you can't find an attractive model in the store, you can sew it yourself - for example, a wrap dressing gown: elegant, but spacious, and even though it is not at all fitted, well emphasizing the figure. How to sew a wrap dressing gown?

A classic wrap dressing gown can be made without side seams - just the top ones, between the shelves and the back. In addition, it often lacks even sleeves and buttons, which are replaced by a belt. However, you can simply make a hidden clasp so that the product does not lose its lightness. For such a dressing gown, it is recommended to take thin and not too smooth fabrics: cotton, chintz, cambric.

  • A pattern for a wraparound robe can be built without even performing complex calculations: its silhouette is free, as a result of which special errors of 2-3 cm do not play a role. In addition, there are no tucks in it, which also simplifies the sewing process.
  • The basis of such a bathrobe is a rectangle. The full width (MN segment multiplied by 2) is equal to the hip circumference with the addition of 5-8 cm. The NP segment, which marks the smell, is set to a width of 15 cm, and is relevant for the left and right shelves.
  • The length of the product is chosen arbitrarily, so this value is not indicated on the pattern. The height of the side (from the waist to the bottom of the opening of the sleeve) is 17-20 cm, depending on how loose the sleeve should be. The same applies to the depth of the neck.

There is no particular problem in combining the details: first, process the opening of the sleeve with a zigzag or using an overlock, then sew along the top of the shelves and back, and then also process the neck and edges of the product. If you need to make a hidden fastener, it is recommended to put it at the intersection of the waist line and the vertical from point N.

  • The finished dressing gown can be supplemented with a slanting inlay, put on the edge of the shelves and neck. It is not recommended to process the bottom. For plain robes, the trim is cut out of the same material; for fabric with a pattern, a satin or satin ribbon is taken so that it does not argue with the main pattern.
  • If you want to make sleeves for such a robe, refer to their classic pattern, but do not narrow them to the wrist: the main idea of ​​wrap robes is lightness and freedom, which can be seen in every detail.

This version of home clothes also belongs to products with a wrap, however, it has some peculiarities: in particular, a kimono robe is not sewn fitted - it is always loose clothing, if we turn to traditional oriental clothing, and also suggests the presence of a wide sode sleeve. In addition, such a robe has a belt, which can be either a standard width (2-3 cm) or closer to the Japanese obi - 10-15 cm.

  • The kimono robe pattern consists of 6 parts: a one-piece back, left and right shelves, as well as sleeves and 2 belt parts. Even a novice craftswoman will cope with the construction. The recommended material for such a product is silk, as required by traditional rules. But you can replace it with another lightweight fabric.

All details are built from classic rectangles, so it’s quite difficult to make a mistake here. The length of the belt is chosen arbitrarily, depending on how it should be tied. The most commonly used formula is OT + 40 (45) cm.

  • The length of the classic kimono robe is up to the middle of the leg: it is with this calculation that the silhouette will look elegant and attractive. The width of the back is calculated as the "width of the back" multiplied by 1.2-1.5. In this case, the front half and back are equal in width to each other.
  • The bevel on the shelves, coming from the neckline, ends at the waistline, and the lower points of the side cuts for the sleeves should be about 15 cm higher.

The parts are sewn together as follows: first, the shelves are sewn to the back with the top seam, and the fabric left for allowances is ironed back. Then the sleeves are added, and the shelves are connected to the back along the side seams. It remains only to sew the details of the belt so that it is dense and empty inside, and the kimono robe is ready to move into the wardrobe.

Construction of a drawing of a pattern for a men's dressing gown.

Another pattern for our beloved men is a dressing gown. It is also called a bathrobe. There are other names for this product, but the essence remains - a bathrobe.

This topic was thrown by our visitors, for which we are very grateful to YOU, dear ones.

There were some doubts, there are more relevant topics, and it seemed that a bathrobe is not the most necessary part of a man's wardrobe, but ...

Conducting a survey among our acquaintances about the importance of a bathrobe in a man’s life, we noticed that during the discussion, the mood of all participants in the conversation improved markedly, since a beautiful, warm, homemade bathrobe is involuntarily associated with prosperity, luxury, tranquility and comfort. What else is there to think about?

Decision is made. Cut, sew, give and be happy!

The presentability of this product is completely dependent on the fabric from which it is sewn. Therefore, if you want the owner of the bathrobe to be truly happy, do not skimp on the choice of fabric!

A very beautiful dressing gown is obtained from double-sided terry knitwear, designed specifically for such things.

Such dressing gowns are worn on the smell, without a fastener with a belt along the waist line. It is quite voluminous, providing its owner with freedom of movement and comfort. Turn-down collar, shawl type. On the left shelf there is a patch pocket. Sleeves are set-in, direct. The length of the sleeve can be different, the bottom of the sleeve can be decorated with cuffs.

To build a pattern for a home dressing gown, we need several measurements.

Half neck ................39 cm

Bust..............48 cm

Semi-waist..............42 cm

Back length to waist.......44cm

Product length.................120 cm

The amount of the allowance for a free fit depends on the style, on the degree of desired fit to the figure, on the type, composition and properties of the fabric.

A home dressing gown is loose clothing that does not restrict movement and provides comfort, so the increase along the chest line should be within 8 - 12 cm.

In our example, we will take the average value of the increase along the chest line for this type of clothing Pg \u003d 10 cm.

Construction of a pattern.

In the upper left corner, draw a right angle and denote the top with the letter A.

Bottom line.

The length of the bathrobe can be different: from the level of mini to maxi. In our example, this is the average length for a man of average height.

From point A down, we set aside the length of the product (Di) and set point H. In our example, it is 120 cm, and you put off your measurement.

AN = Di = 120 cm

From point H to the right we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

Waistline.

From point A down, we set aside a measure of the length of the back to the waist (Dsp) and set point T.

AT = Dst = 44 cm

From point T to the right we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

chest line.

From point A down we set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the semicircle of the chest plus 8-10 cm and set point G.

AG \u003d 1/3 Cr + 10 \u003d 48: 3 + 10 \u003d 26 cm

From point G to the right we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

This line defines the depth of the armhole.

In loose, non-restrictive clothing, such as our dressing gown, the indentation of the armhole can reach to the level of the waist.

The width of the product along the chest line.

From the point G to the right horizontally, we set aside the width of the product, which is equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the chest (Cg) plus an increase in free fit and set the point G1.

In our example, the increase is 10 cm.

GG1 \u003d SG + Pg \u003d 48 + 10 \u003d 58 cm

And you do not forget to substitute your numbers in the formula.

Draw a vertical line through point G1 down and up.

The point of intersection with the upper horizontal line is denoted by the letter B;

the point of intersection and the waist line is denoted by the letter T1;

the point of intersection and the bottom line is denoted by the letter H1.

Back width.

From the point G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the chest (Cg) plus 5 cm (half the amount of the increase in free fit) and set the point G2.

GG2 \u003d SG: 3 + 5 cm \u003d 48: 3 + 5 cm \u003d 21 cm.

Do not forget that in all formulas you must substitute your own values!

From the obtained point G2, we draw a vertical line up to the intersection with the upper horizontal line and set the point P.

Front width.

The width of the front can be determined using the same formula as the width of the back: 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the chest (Cr) plus 5 cm (half the amount of the allowance for a loose fit).

From the point G1 to the left, we postpone the result obtained and set the point G3.

G1G3 \u003d Cr: 3 + 5 cm \u003d 48: 3 + 5 cm \u003d 21 cm

In other words, in this technique, the width of the back will be equal to the width of the front.

From the point G3 we draw a vertical line up to the intersection with the upper horizontal line and set the point P1.

Armhole width.

The distance between points G2 and G3 is the width of the armhole.

Note. When designing men's clothing, the armhole width is determined as the difference between the total width of the product along the chest line and the width of the back and front, but it cannot be less than the accepted values, which are usually given in a separate table and experienced designers know these numbers by heart. I will not give the whole table, you can see it in any reference book or textbook on clothing design, I will only note that for size 48, the width of the armhole should not be less than 14.8-16.6 cm, depending on the type of clothing.

If the width of the armhole during construction is less than the limit values, it is necessary either to increase the total width of the increase along the chest line, or to reduce the increase in the sections of the back and front in the sections GG2 and G3G1.

Lateral line.

Divide the distance G2G3 in half, mark the division point with the letter G4, from which we draw a vertical down to the intersection with the bottom line and set the point H2.

The point of intersection of the side line with the waist line is denoted by the letter T2.

The width of the sprout (the neck of the back).

From point A to the right horizontally, we set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 - 1.5 cm and set point A1. In our example - plus 1.5 cm, and you can choose a different value based on your tasks.

It is very important to consider the type of fabric used, its thickness and volume. The thicker and more voluminous the fabric, the larger the neck should be.

AA1 \u003d Ssh: 3 + 1.5 cm \u003d 19.5: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 8 cm

The height of the sprout (the neck of the back).

From point A1 upwards at a right angle, set aside 1/2 of the width of the sprout, i.e. distance AA1 and set point A2. There are other ways to determine this value, we will talk about them in the following articles and demonstrate them with other examples.

A1A2=AA1:2=8:2=4cm

We draw the line of the sprout (neck of the back) with a smooth curve, as shown in the figure below.

The neck line should approach the line of the middle of the back at a right angle.

Back shoulder line.

We set aside 2 cm from the point P down and set the point P2.

From point A2 through point P2 we draw a straight line with a length equal to the measure of the length of the shoulder plus 1 cm for the fit (or plus 2 cm if a tuck is provided) and set point P3.

Assuming that you do not have the opportunity to take a measurement of the length of the shoulder, in this case you just need to extend the shoulder line beyond the P2 point by 1 - 2 cm and put the P3 point.

Make your calculations, and in our case, the distance A2P3 will be equal to:

A2P3 \u003d Dpl + 1 cm \u003d 16 + 1 \u003d 17 cm

Back armhole line.

The distance P2G2 is divided in half, the division point is denoted by the letter P4.

Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/4 of the width of the armhole minus 0.5 cm along the bisector of the angle and set point G5.

G2G5 \u003d G2G3: 4 - 0.5 cm \u003d 16: 4 - 0.5 \u003d 3.5 cm

Note: since this value in calculations is most often in the range of approximately 2.5 - 3.5 cm, you can not calculate it according to the formula, but postpone 2.5 - 3.5 cm from the G2 point and put the G5 point.

We draw the armhole line of the back with a smooth curve, connecting the points P3, P4, G5 and G4.

Back construction completed.

Front Neck Width

The width of the front neckline is 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. equal to the width of the back neck.

BB1 \u003d Ssh: 3 + 1 cm \u003d 19.5: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 8 cm

Set aside 8 cm from point B to the left horizontally and set point B1.

You can not make this calculation, but measure the width of the neck on the drawing of the back and set aside the corresponding value on the drawing of the shelf.

Front neck height equal to its width. In other words, the width and height of the front neck are equal to each other. Therefore, from point B down, we lay off a segment equal to the width of the neck and set point B2.

The front neck line is drawn with a smooth curve, as shown in the figure below.

Front shoulder line.

From the point P1 down the vertical, set aside 4 cm and set the point P5. Draw a straight line from point B1 through the obtained point, on which we plot the length of the shoulder. In our example, this is 16 cm and we put the point P6.

If we assume that you do not have the opportunity to take a measurement of the length of the shoulder, in this case you just need to extend the shoulder line beyond the P1 point by 1-1.5 cm and put the P6 point.

Front armhole line.

We divide the distance P5G3 in half, the division point is denoted by the letter P7.

Divide the angle at point G3 in half and set aside 1/4 of the width of the armhole minus 0.5 cm along the bisector of the angle and set point G6.

G3G6 \u003d G2G3: 4 - 0.5 cm \u003d 16: 4 - 0.5 \u003d 3.5 cm

Note: since this value in calculations is most often in the range of approximately 2.5 - 3.5 cm, you can not calculate it according to the formula, but postpone 2.5 - 3.5 cm from the G3 point and put the G6 point.

We draw the line of the armhole in front with a smooth curve, connecting the points P6, P7, G6 and G4. See the picture below.

Board of the bathrobe.

From point T1 to the right horizontally, continuing the front waist line, set aside half the distance T2T1 and set point T3, from which we draw a straight line down, parallel to the midline, indicating the edge of the bead. The point of intersection with the continuation of the bottom line is denoted by the letter H3.

Shawl collar.

Before building a collar, consider the following: Note: If voluminous terry knitwear is used for tailoring, it is possible that the width of the neck (both back and front) will need to be expanded by 0.7 - 1 cm. To do this, set aside the indicated value along the shoulder line from the neck and adjust the neck line. How to do this is illustrated in the figure below.

We connect points T3 and B1 with a straight line, continuing it upwards beyond point B1 to the length of the neck of the back and set point B11.

We measure the length of the neck of the back on the drawing of the back along the curve between points A and A2.

In our example, 9 cm, and you measure the length of the neck of the back according to your drawing.

From point B11 to the left at a right angle, set aside 3 cm and set point B12.

Connecting this point with a smooth line to point B1, we get the line for stitching the collar.

From point B12 upwards at a right angle to the collar stitching line, set aside the width of the collar at the back. The average value of the collar width in this type of clothing is usually in the range of 8 - 10 cm.

We set aside 10 cm and set point B13.

The collar fly-off line can have any configuration. We opt for the classic version and in accordance with this we draw up the outer edge of the collar. To do this, connect points B13 and T3 with a smooth line, remembering the main rule:

To the line of the middle of the collar, the line of departure must always approach at a right angle.

See the picture below.

The width of the selection in this product can be different and, in accordance with this, the technology for its processing is selected.

In our example, the pick-up line is indicated by a dotted line. See picture below.

It remains to determine the size and location pocket.

We take average values, taking into account the size of the product, the type of fabric and the wishes of the client. Width 18 cm and height 21 cm.

The pocket is located below the waist line by about 5-10 cm and 3-5 cm from the side line.

The gown belt is cut approximately 140-160 cm long and 3.5 - 4.5 cm wide in finished form. Consider the size of the product and the type of fabric.

You don't have to be a professional seamstress to make a dressing gown. You can sew a cozy bathrobe without a pattern. Choose a good and beautiful fabric. It can be cotton fabric with or without print, it can be viscose, it can be silk. There are a lot of options. It is better to pre-wash the fabric, iron it.

Let's start from complex to simple

How to sew a kimono robe

The robe-kimono is uncut along the waist line, it is spacious and long. Three-quarter length sleeves, wide and comfortable. The neckline and edges of the sides are edged with two wide inlays folded in half. The dressing gown does not have a fastener, it is wrapped around and at the waist line is pulled together with a belt made of finishing fabric.

Size: 48-50. According to the proposed pattern, you can sew a bathrobe for yourself and for your husband.

You will need:

  • fabric (cotton, velvet, satin, silk): with a width of 1.50 m - 2.40 m, with a width of 0.90 m - about 4 m;
  • oblique trim 10 cm wide and 3.30 m long.

Cutting: Lay out the patterns on the fabric, taking into account the direction of the shared thread. Allowances for seams - 1-1.5 cm, for hemming the bottom - 4 cm.

1. Shelf - 2 parts.
2. Back - 1 piece with a fold.
3. Sleeve - 2 parts.
4. Belt - 1 detail.
5. Oblique trim for sleeves - 2 parts.
6. Bias binding for shelves - 1 piece.

Description of work:

Stitch shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances towards the back.
Stitch the sleeve into the open armholes, matching the reference marks. Iron the seam allowances to the sleeves.

Stitch the side seams with one line at the same time as the seams of the sleeves. Iron the seams to the shelves. In places where the seams are rounded, when ironing, slightly pull the shelves with an iron. This is done so that in these places the fabric does not shrink.

Sew the inlays, fold in half lengthwise and iron the folds. Fold the inlay and robe right sides, sew the seam on the typewriter. Bend the trim in half, tuck and sew it by hand with a blind seam. You can sew both inlays to the front side and on a typewriter, but manually it turns out more accurately and the seam does not turn out.

Do the same for the sleeves.

Stitch the belt, cut off the corners and turn it on the face. Stitch the remaining open seam to the edge, bending 1 cm inward on each side. Iron the belt and stitch to the side seam.

Tip: if the dressing gown is made of plain fabric, you can sew a pocket to it. The pocket and back in this case can be decorated with embroidery.

If the fabric of the dressing gown has a pattern, then the oblique trim should be plain and in harmony with the color of the fabric.

How to sew a kimono robe without a pattern

Kimono robe with one-piece sleeves

For such a bathrobe, you can take a light fabric or a terry towel and you will get a soft bathrobe, which will be nice to wrap up after taking a bath or shower.

Simple patterns for bathrobes

Pattern of a dressing gown based on an oval (you can also make a rectangle).

Such a dressing gown can be worn not only at home. And if you sew a dressing gown from a beautiful knitted fabric, you get a chic evening dress. Watch the video tutorial at the end of the article.

We take a piece of fabric 150 by 150 centimeters. This size of the canvas will allow you to create a dress for a figure up to size 52. To build an armhole, you need to measure the width of the back. Cut out an oval from a square of fabric. Visually divide it in half. From the top edge, set aside points 25 centimeters on each side, mark. This will be the upper border of the armhole. We make the opening at our discretion, but in general twenty centimeters are enough. We process the edges with either an oblique trim, or lace, or a knitted strip.