Pattern of a modern military uniform for a girl. Step-by-step master class on how to sew a children's gymnast with your own hands with photographs

15.06.2019

Several ways of constructing a pattern for a soldier's shirt for a child and a detailed sewing process.

This year the whole country is actively preparing for the Victory Day. In kindergartens and schools, children are told about the war and the importance of victory for the whole people. We will definitely go to the May 9 parade and congratulate the veterans. We also decided to arrange a thematic photo session with children, so a soldier's gymnastics shirt was needed as an element of military uniform.

A step-by-step master class on how to sew a children's gymnast with your own hands with photographs.

To sew a military gymnast you will need:

1m thick fabric (I have batiste)

6 buttons with a star (available from the army store)

2 simple buttons for epaulettes

Building a pattern for a gymnast.

There are several simple ways to make a pattern for a children's gymnast.

- Based on a shirt, which fits in size. You just need to reshoot all the details from the finished product. You just have to cut out decorative elements such as shoulder straps and pocket flaps. How to reshape a pattern from a finished product without unstitching it

If there is no suitable shirt, then you can do it T-shirt. But keep in mind that the T-shirt is knitted and stretches well, and the fabric for the tunic is not so elastic, so you need to add a couple of cm in width.

By finished pattern... To simplify the construction of a shirt pattern, there is a pattern for a height of 95 and 110 cm.

Below are shown additional details of the flap on the pocket and shoulder straps.

Sewing a military shirt for a child.

Cut out a rectangle of 12 * 3 cm from paper.Apply it in the middle of the front and circle it. We do not throw out the strip of paper itself.

Cut in the center and to the corners as shown in the photo.

We make strips for the collar, for this we cut out two strips of fabric measuring 16 * 7 and bend them as shown in the photo. For easier bending, use a rectangle that has already been cut out of paper.

We make two planks of the same size.

We pin the strips to the tunic on both sides exactly along the drawn lines, leaving 3.5 cm below for the hem.

Check that the planks are level and that the lower one is completely covered by the upper one.

Sew on with a sewing machine. You can see that there is an unused "triangle" in the middle, you do not need to cut it off.

Bring the ends of both planks forward. Shorten the lower one a little. Fold the "triangle" to the front side too. But the photo shows a front view and from the inside.

Bend the tip beautifully, sew along the contour and cross to the cross.

Decorative items for the gymnast.

We will not make pockets, we will only make valves for them.
Cut out a pentagon from the fabric, leaving allowances for the seams. Sewing on four sides, then turning it inside out, ironing it and re-stitching it around the edges.

We make shoulder straps in the same way.

We mark the places for sewing on the pockets. First we sew upside down, then bend down and sew again.

Fold the back and in front of the front sides inward and sew along the shoulder seams.

Sew on shoulder straps from the front side along the armhole line.

We sew the top of the sleeve and tuck it slightly so that it fits better on the shoulder.

Sew on the sleeves to the tunic by matching the centers.

You don't need to do the cuffs on the sleeve, but the tunic looks more impressive with it, so it's better to spend half an hour of your time on the cuffs.

We make the cuffs in the same way as the collar, but use a paper rectangle 8 * 1 cm.

Sew on the strips and match them together.

We bend the tip and sew along the contour.

After sewing in the cuff strips, we sew the tunic along the side seam.

The shirt must have a stand-up collar. In the original, it is cut out in an arc, but for a product of such a small size and not a high stand, you can cut an even strip. The width of the collar strip should be 2 times the desired collar height + 1 cm for the seams. Those if you want a collar for a stock of 2.5 cm.Then the width of the strip should be 6 cm.
Sew on a strip along the neckline.

We check that everything converges in the overlap areas.

We bend it inward and stitch it. The stand-up collar is ready.

In the same way, we finish the cuffs with the only difference that we make folds on the cuffs.

The military tunic for the child is ready, all that remains is to hem the bottom, make loops and sew on the buttons.

This is how the tunic will look with a belt. A belt buckle can also be purchased at an army store (price 180r).

I liked this material, tell your friends about it on social networks.

Several ways of constructing a pattern for a soldier's shirt for a child and a detailed sewing process.

A step-by-step master class on how to sew a children's gymnast with your own hands with photographs.

To sew a military gymnast you will need:

1m thick fabric (I have batiste)

6 buttons with a star (available from the army store)

2 simple buttons for epaulettes

Building a pattern for a gymnast.

There are several simple ways to make a pattern for a children's gymnast.

By finished pattern... To simplify the construction of a shirt pattern, there is a pattern for a height of 95 and 110 cm.

Below are shown additional details of the flap on the pocket and shoulder straps.

Sewing a military shirt for a child.

Cut out a rectangle of 12 * 3 cm from paper.Apply it in the middle of the front and circle it. We do not throw out the strip of paper itself.

Cut in the center and to the corners as shown in the photo.

We make two planks of the same size.

We pin the strips to the tunic on both sides exactly along the drawn lines, leaving 3.5 cm below for the hem.

Check that the planks are level and that the lower one is completely covered by the upper one.

Sew on with a sewing machine. You can see that there is an unused "triangle" in the middle, you do not need to cut it off.

Bring the ends of both planks forward. Shorten the lower one a little. Fold the "triangle" to the front side too. But the photo shows a front view and from the inside.

Bend the tip beautifully, sew along the contour and cross to the cross.

Decorative items for the gymnast.

We make shoulder straps in the same way.

We mark the places for sewing on the pockets. First we sew upside down, then bend down and sew again.

Fold the back and in front of the front sides inward and sew along the shoulder seams.

Sew on shoulder straps from the front side along the armhole line.

We sew the top of the sleeve and tuck it slightly so that it fits better on the shoulder.

Sew on the sleeves to the tunic by matching the centers.

You don't need to do the cuffs on the sleeve, but the tunic looks more impressive with it, so it's better to spend half an hour of your time on the cuffs.

We make the cuffs in the same way as the collar, but use a paper rectangle 8 * 1 cm.

Sew on the strips and match them together.

We bend the tip and sew along the contour.

After sewing in the cuff strips, we sew the tunic along the side seam.

We check that everything converges in the overlap areas.

We bend it inward and stitch it. The stand-up collar is ready.

In the same way, we finish the cuffs with the only difference that we make folds on the cuffs.

The military tunic for the child is ready, all that remains is to hem the bottom, make loops and sew on the buttons.

This is how the tunic will look with a belt. A belt buckle can also be purchased at an army store (price 180r).

I liked this material, tell your friends about it on social networks.

To construct a drawing of a tunic pattern, the same measurements are taken as for a man's top shirt, only the sleeve in the tunic is made 2 cm longer (Fig. 1).
OW = 19.5 cm O D = 48 cm WD = 19.5 cm
SHS = 19.5 cm CI = 80cm DR = 60 cm
We find additional data for the measurements taken from the figure (calculations are made in the same way as for the shirt.)
1. The depth of the back armhole is 24 cm (OG: 3 + 8).
2. The width of the back of the tunic is 21 cm (SHS + 1.5).
3. Armhole width 16 cm (OG: 3).
4. The width of the tunic along the chest line 58 (OG + 10)
5. Place the side seam 4 cm from the back.
6. The width of the sprout is 7 cm (OR: 3+ 0.5).
7. The height of the sprout is equal to the width of sprout 3, that is, 7: 3 + 2.5 cm.
8. Decrease of the shoulder back 3 cm.
9. Back shoulder protrusion 1 cm.
10. Auxiliary point along the armhole of the back from the chest line up 8 cm, that is, 1/3 of the depth of the armhole.
11. Auxiliary line from the corner along the armhole of the back Z cm.
12. Extension of the side of the back on the bottom line 2 cm.
13. The depth of the front neck is 8 cm (sprout width + 1)
14. Front neck width 7 cm (sprout width).
15. Lowering the depth of the neck 1 cm.
16. Decrease of the front shoulder by 5 cm.
17. The front shoulder is 1 cm less than the back shoulder.
18. Auxiliary point along the armhole of the shelf from the chest line up 8 cm (1/3 of the depth of the armhole).
19. Auxiliary point from the corner along the armhole of the shelf Z cm.
20. Expansion of the side of the shelf on the bottom line 4-5 cm.
21. Elongation of the front of the floor Z cm.
22. Length of front slit for stitches 30 cm.
Building a pattern drawing
sewing a man's tunic

Men's tunic

A drawing of a tunic (Fig. 2) we build according to the grid of a shirt plan (see item 11)
We draw the back. From point A to the left along the line, set aside the width of the sprout according to the calculation of 7 cm, set the point P, and from it, up in a straight line, set the height of the sprout 2.5 cm, set the point P1. We connect points P1 and A with a concave line. We get the cutout line of the sprout.
From point D down the line, we postpone the decrease in the shoulder of the back by 3 cm, set point D1. We connect point P1 with a straight line with point D1, extending it beyond the line of the back by 1 cm - the protrusion of the shoulder of the back, set point D2. We get the shoulder section of the back. From point Г1 up the line we put off the auxiliary 8 cm along the armhole of the back, set the point Г5. From the point Г1 from the corner we put aside the auxiliary one along the armhole of the back of 3 cm, set the point Г6. First we connect point D2 with a straight line with point G5, then draw a concave line through point G6 to the middle of the width of the armhole. We get the back armhole cutout.
From point H2 to the left along the line, set aside 3 cm, set point H3. We connect point G4 with point H3. We get a side cut of the back.
We draw a shelf. From point P down the line, we postpone the depth of the neck according to the calculation of 8 cm, set point P2. From point P to the right along the line, set aside the width of the front neckline of 7 cm, set point P3. From point P3 down in a straight line we postpone lowering the depth of the front neckline by 1 cm, set point P4 and connect it with a concave line to point P2. We get the front neckline.
From point D1 down the line, postpone the reduction of the front shoulder by 5 cm, set point D3. We connect point P4 with a straight line with point D3 and on this line to the right of point P4 we postpone the length of the front shoulder according to the calculation of 15 cm, set point P5. We get the shoulder cut of the shelf. From the point G2 up the line, we put off the auxiliary shelf along the armhole of 8 cm, put the point G7. From the point Г2 from the corner we put off the auxiliary shelf along the armhole of 3 cm, set the point Г8. We connect point P5 first with a straight line with point G7, then with a concave line with point G8, continuing the line to the middle of the width of the armhole. We get the cut of the armhole of the shelf.
From point H2 to the right along the line, set aside 5 cm, set point H4. We connect point G4 with a straight line with point H4. We get the side cut of the shelf.
From the point H1 down in a straight line we postpone the lengthening of the floor of the front of 3 cm, set the point H5 and connect it with a smooth line to the point H4. We get the bottom cut of the shelf.
From point P2 down the line, set aside the length of the cut of the fastener 30 cm, set point P6. From point G2 to the left along the line, set aside for drawing a pocket Z-5 cm, set point K. From it to the left along the line, set aside the width of the pocket 12 cm, set point K1. From point K upward in a straight line, set aside 2 cm, set point K2, from point K1 upward in a straight line, set aside 1 cm, set point K3. We connect point K2 with a straight line to point K3. We get the cut line of the pocket. Pockets can be slit or patch.
We draw the sleeve of the tunic.
To build a drawing, you must have the following data:
1. Sleeve length 60 cm.
2. The width of the sleeve is equal to: OG: 3 + 6, that is, 48: 3 + 6 = 22 cm, or the width of the back of the shirt in the drawing is +1, that is, 21 + 1 = 22 cm.
3. The height of the sleeve is equal to the line G1Dz in the drawing of the back, that is, 16 cm.
4. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to: OG: 3 + 3, that is, 48: З + 3 = 19cm.
5. Bevel of the bottom of the sleeve 1 cm.
sewing a man's tunic
We build a rectangle along the width and length of the sleeve 22x60 cm, put points A, B, H, H1. From points A and B downwards, we postpone the height of the sleeve ridge according to the calculation of 16 cm, put points O and O1. Divide the AB line in half at the O2 point, connect the O2 point with the Oz point (the middle of the OO1 line). From point O up the line, set aside 5 cm, set point O4. Divide the AO2 line in half, put the point O5 and connect it with a straight line with the point O4. We also divide the O5O4 line in half, put the point O6 and connect it with a straight line with the point O2. Then we connect the same points up one centimeter from the О6О2 line, as shown in Fig. 3. From point B down the line, set aside 5 cm, set point O7. We first connect the O2 point with a straight line with the O7 point, and then in the middle of this line, just like on the O6O2 line, raise the straight line by 1 cm and connect the O2, O7 points. The О4О6О2О7 line is a cut of the upper part of the sleeve.
Line О4Н is the fold of the front of the sleeve, we divide it in half, find the elbow line, set point L, from it to the right we draw a straight line parallel to OO1, at its intersection with line О1Н1 we set point L1. From point H to the right along the line, we postpone the width of the sleeve at the bottom according to the calculation of 19 cm, set the point H2 and connect it with a straight line with the point L1. Line О7О1Л1Н2 is the elbow seam of the back of the sleeve.
From point H upwards along the line we lay aside the bottom of the sleeve 2 cm, set point H3, connect it with a straight line with point H2. We get the bottom cut of the sleeve.
From point O7 to the left along the line, set aside 5 cm, set point O4. We connect it with a straight line to the point Oz. Then we find the middle of this line, put the point O9, and the middle of the line O O3, put the point O10. We connect points O4, O10, O9 and O8 with a concave line (Fig. 3). We get the upper cut of the lower part of the sleeve.
When making a sleeve pattern, fold the paper in half, the fold of the paper is the line AH. We draw all the lines of the drawing on the paper. Then we cut the pattern in half, first along the line О4О6О2О7О1Л1Н2 Нз, and then cut the top paper along the line О4О10О9О8Л2Н2 and unfold the pattern.
We draw the sleeve cuff.
1. The length of the cuff is equal to OG: 2 + 4, that is, 48: 2 + 4 = 28 cm.
2. The width of the cuff is 14 cm, in the finished form, the width of the cuff is 6 cm (Fig. 4)
We draw a stand-up collar.
1. The length of the collar is equal to the full OR + 6 cm for the entry and seams, that is, 39 + 6 = 45 cm.
2. The width of the collar to be cut out is 9 cm, in the finished form the width of the collar is 4 cm (Fig. 5).
We draw strips for sealing the front cut of the fastener.
1. The length of the top strip 37, width 8 cm.
men's tunic

Men's tunic

Male gynaster

Men's tunic

2. The length of the lower plank is width Z2 cm (Fig. 6).
We draw a valve.
1. Valve length 13.5 cm.
2. The width of the middle is 7 cm, the sides are 4-5 cm (Fig. 7).
We draw a pocket edging.
Length 16 cm, width 6 cm (p. 8).
We draw a burlap pocket.
Length 40 cm, width 16 cm (Fig. 9).
We draw a patch pocket.
1. Length 16 cm.
2. Width at the top is 15 cm (fig. 10), at the bottom is 16 cm.
Cool
We fold the fabric in half with the front side inward, then put the pattern details on the fabric and cut it out, making an allowance for seams along the neckline and armholes, shelves and backrests 0.5 cm, along the shoulder and side cuts 1.5-2 cm, along the lower cut 2 cm.
In the sleeves, along the upper and lower cuts, we allow 1 cm, along the side cuts, 1.5-2 m. We cut out the rest of the parts without allowance for the seams.
As always, the cuffs, collar, straps for closing the fastener, facing capman, burlap pockets, patch pockets are cut out so that the share thread of the fabric runs along the length of the part. The share thread runs along the width of the part only in the valves.
The subvalves are cut out of the lining fabric and are narrower than the valves by 0.2 cm.
Sewing
The tunic should be sewn with a stitch seam. First, we process the shelf. We close the front section of the fastener with planks (the same as in the top man's shirt).
We process patch pockets. We fold the valves with the sub-valves with the front side inward, sweep and grind down by 0.5 cm along the side and bottom cuts, along the valve for an easy fit. Iron the seams, turn the valves out, iron them well and make loops in the designated places. We fold the pockets along the upper cut, first by 0.5 cm, then by 1 cm and sew. We fold the side and bottom cuts by 1 cm, cut out the excess fabric in the corners and fix it with hand stitches, iron it well. On the fold of the middle of the pocket, you can make a bow or counter fold, when cutting pockets, this is taken into account and an allowance for the folds is made.
We apply the prepared valves with the front side to the designated places of the pockets on the shelf (also from the front side) with the lower cut of the valves up, mark and stitch them 0.5 cm from the edge, then fold the valves down and sew along the front side along the valves 0.5 cm from the edges of the fold. We fix the ends. We apply the prepared pockets with the seamy side to the shelf, the upper cut of the pockets should not reach the seam of the stitching of the valves by 0.5 cm.
We process welt pockets. We apply the prepared valves with the front side to the front side of the shelf, with the upper cut of the valve to the upper part of the pocket cut line, we mark, and to the lower part of the pocket cut line we apply the pocket edging face to face. Then, on top of the facing, we put a burlap of the pocket on one side and all together we outline and sew with a frame, 0.8-1 cm wide, strictly according to the level of the valve length. Then we cut the shelf along the line of the pocket, we cut through all four corners. Fold the burlap and edging inside out. We release the edging into the edging and sew on the front side along the edge of the cut. We fold the trimmed edge of the facing and stitch it onto burlap. We bend the burlap so that its trimmed edge is 2 cm higher than the valve stitch line.
Bend the trimmed edge of the valve inside out and sew on the front side along the seam of the valve stitch, together with burlap. Then we grind the cut edges of the burlap with a double inverted seam. We make bartacks at the ends of the pocket.
Sew the shoulder and side cuts, bend the bottom, iron the seams and overcast with a buttonhole seam.
Fold the collar in half with the front side inward, sweep and grind along the side cuts 0.5 cm from the edge, iron the seams and turn the collar out. We apply the prepared collar with one side to the seamy side of the tunic, sew in, making a light fit along the neck, we sew it 0.5 cm from the edge. We fold the second cut edge of the collar by 0.5 cm and sew on the tunic from the front side. Then we sew the entire collar along the edge.
We process the sleeves. Fold the cuffs in half with the front side inward, sweep and sew along the side cuts. Iron the seams, turn the cuffs out, and iron them well again. We grind the sleeves along the seam, leaving them 4-5 centimeters unstuck at the bottom. We fold the cut edges of the seams along the cut and sew them with hand stitches, at the end of the cut we make manual bartacks. On the lower edge of the sleeve, we make clamps one after the other towards the incision.
We apply the cuff with one side to the wrong side of the sleeve, sew it 1 cm from the edge. We fold the cut edge of the cuff and sew it onto the sleeve, sew the cuff around the edge.
We sew the prepared sleeves into the armhole, placing them with the O2 point on the shoulder seam of the tunic, along the upper part of the sleeve there is an easy fit. If the tunic is made of woolen fabric, then simultaneously with the sleeve, an oblique strip of lining fabric is sewn to seal the seam of the sleeve stitching from the wrong side.
On the upper bar along the length (strictly in the center) and on the cuffs, on the upper part, we make loops, then sew on the buttons on the lower part.
We iron the finished tunic well.

Svetochka, bravo! While I was swinging and just going to sew such a shape, you beat me to it. Honestly, I was going to make the same topic, only there was no time. I recently found a doll with the same body as your Smile, but with a different head. Here is the same as the dolls below.
She seemed very funny to me, well, very much. I began to look for information about her, and found the same dolls released for the 40th anniversary of the Victory in 1985 and even a little later for the 45th anniversary. I also wanted to sew such a suit, but of course, with such skill as you, I could not do it, and besides, I will definitely not leave the doll for myself. Therefore, it makes no sense to make a separate topic. Then let me supplement your topic with photos from the Internet, I hope their authors will not be offended, I apologize in advance. Which factory produced these dolls in a soldier's uniform, I don't remember.

here is a view from the back

And I did not sew such a suit on my doll for the simple reason that her hair is pink. I don't like it at all, and the doll itself is not to my taste. Here is her photo

And this is with a similar Smile.

As you can see, their bodies are the same, but their heads are different. And as I understand it, your Smiley's eyes are drawn. And my plug-in sleeping and blinking. I love her gorgeous hair. I want to make Little Red Riding Hood out of her. Well, now, almost a topic in a topic ... I beg your pardon if out of place.

Olga Martynenko prepared a master class for the "Box" website

For work, I needed 0.8 m of fabric. A green calico fabric was used. Size 98. and a hidden zip lock.

I modified the original model. The sleeve from the pattern did not fit me, but it was replaced by a sleeve from another model. From this:

To begin with, we lay out the pattern on the fabric, circle it, and make allowances for the seams of 0.7 cm, along the bottom of the dress and sleeves 2 cm and cut it out.

1.Stitch shoulder seams. Overcast. Iron out.