Lesson summary "technological sequence for making a straight skirt." Practical work. Overcast skirt hem
TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF SKIRT PROCESSING
Initial processing of skirt parts
The initial processing will include the processing of darts, folds, joining parts with yokes, overcasting cuts of parts, etc.
Skirts can be made with a lining to prevent the back panel from pulling out. In the lining of the skirt, darts are initially grinded (darts can be replaced with soft folds), the side sections are grinded and overcast. In the left side seam, the lining is overcast and the edges are sewn under the fastener. The bottom of the lining is processed with a hem seam with a closed cut.
The processed lining is inserted into the skirt, in which the fastener is processed, the darts and notches are combined, the upper sections are leveled and connected on a stitching machine at a distance of 5 mm from the upper sections.
Closure processing in skirts
Fasteners in skirts are located on the front, back panel or in the left side seam, fold.
The most common zipper closure is processed in two ways: at the same distance on both sides of the side seam line and at different distances. The links of the zipper when joining should be hidden under the seam allowances. The fastener is processed with stitched, overcast, ironed side seams and with ironed cuts of the fastener.
Processing of a zipper when fastened at the same distance from the folds. When stitching a zipper on a single-needle machine with a special foot, the stitching is placed at a distance of 4-7 mm from the edge of the fastener, depending on the size of the links. At the end of the zipper, the line is laid perpendicular to the cut at a distance of 1-5 mm from the end of the zipper links or at an angle (Figure 17.15, a).
Processing of a zipper when fastening it with an offset of the links under front panel of skirt... Under the ironed fold of the back panel of the skirt, put the right side of the woven tape of the zipper and open it so that the fold of the zipper allowance is located end-to-end to the zipper links, and the lock is at a distance of 15 mm from the upper edge of the skirt. After securing the right side with pins, the zipper is closed, the fold of the fastener allowance from the side of the front panel is brought end-to-end to the fold of the fastener allowance from the side of the rear panel of the skirt and cleaved with three or four pins in the transverse direction, securing the front panel and the zipper. When chipping, the upper sections of the front and back panels of the skirt are equalized and a single line of the side seam is created. Then the zipper is opened and the parallelism of the links relative to the fold is specified from the seamy side.
Stitching is performed from the front side in one step from the upper cut of the front panel to the upper cut of the rear panel. The front part of the zipper is fixed at a distance of 8-10 mm. On the rear panel of the skirt, the line is laid at a distance of 2 mm from the fold.
Rice. 17.15- Processing of zipper on skirts
Zipper finish with full link closure. A feature of processing such a fastener is to secure the zipper with an offset under the front, put the links of the right side of the woven tape (3-5 mm relative to the side seam line). The allowances of the side cuts in the fastener area are increased to 10-35 mm. When ironing out the side seams, iron only the cut of the front panel fastener along the side seam line. The cut of the back panel fastener is bent to the side of the wrong side, releasing an allowance relative to the side seam line by 3-5 mm, and ironed. Under the fold, put the right side of the woven tape of the zipper in the open form so that the fold fits butt to the links.
The right side of the woven zipper tape is stitched at a distance of 2 mm from the fold, ensuring free movement of the zipper lock. The zipper is closed, and the ironed fold of the zipper allowance to the front panel of the skirt is brought to the side seam line, equalizing the top cuts and cleaving them with pins.
Sew the left side of the woven tape along the front side of the front panel from above. Finish with a double - triple transverse stitching perpendicular to the side seam line or at an angle to it (Figure 17.15.c). For the stability of the fastener and to improve the appearance along the fold of its front part, a finishing line is made at a distance of 2 mm from the edge.
Processing the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt
The belt can be one-piece with a girdle or detachable, with a seam along the fold line. In length, it can consist of two parts: with a seam at the level of the side seam or under the belt loops. The ends of the belt usually overlap one by one by 30-60 mm and are fastened with a welt loop and button or a metal hook and loop. An allowance for fastening can be added to each or one of the ends of the belt. The belt is made with a lining of adhesive or non-adhesive fabric, as well as without a lining.
Before joining the skirt with the belt, the upper cut of the skirt is cut, the length and width of the belt are specified.
On the wrong side of the inner part of the belt, a non-adhesive gasket is applied and stitched along the length at a distance of 2-5 mm from the fold (middle) of the belt. The lower cut of the gasket is aligned with the lower cut of the belt when using a thin non-adhesive gasket. When using a compacted non-adhesive or adhesive gasket, the bottom cut of the gasket should not reach 10 mm to the cut of the inner part of the belt.
The belt is bent in the middle along the fold with the front side inward, equalizing the cuts and aligning the control marks. The ends of the belt are grinded and grinded from the side of the gasket. The seam allowances are cut in the corners, leaving 3-4 mm. The belt is turned onto the front side, straightened and the ends are swept out on a special machine.
After ironing, the belt is connected to the upper cut of the skirt. The inner part of the belt is applied to the wrong side of the skirt, equalizing the cuts and control marks, and stitching along the belt with a seam 10 mm wide, while placing the hanger at the level of the side seams. The belt is unscrewed, the seam is bent towards the belt, the lower section of the belt is folded inward and stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge so that the edge covers the seam for grinding the inner part of the belt (Figure 17.16, a). The belt is ready-made when ironing.
In products made of thick fabrics and knitted fabrics, the cut of the inner part of the belt is pre-swept. The belt is sewn to the skirt, equalizing
front sides on the outside of the belt. The belt is folded back to the wrong side and stitched onto the skirt in the stitching seam, securing the inside of the belt (Fig. 17.16.6).
dry cleaning and wet heat treatment.
Figure 17.17 - Processing the upper cut of the skirt with a belt
When processing a skirt on a single-needle machine with a special device, the belt parts are grinded and wound onto a cassette. The belt from the cassette is tucked into
The guide is fed under the foot with bent sections between which the upper section of the skirt is inserted and sharpened. In this case, the line is not brought to the ends of the belt by 30-40mm. The ends of the belt are overlaid without a device, bending the sections inward (Figure 17.16, c).
When processing on a two-needle machine with a device, the sections of the outer and inner parts of the belt are bent (Fig. 17.16, d).
Variants of processing the upper edge of the skirt with a corsage tape with a hook fastener (Fig. 17.18, a) or a stitched belt with a zipper (Fig. 17.19, b).
Figure 18.19 - Processing the upper edges of the skirt
Processing the lower edge of the skirt
The bottom of the skirt, depending on the model and properties of the fabric, can be processed in various ways: with a hem seam with a closed cut (Fig. 17.17, a), a hem seam with an open hemmed cut (Fig. 17.17.6), edged (Fig. 17.17, c) ...
The bottom of the skirt is preliminarily specified according to the pattern and the bottom fold line is applied. Then the bottom section of the skirt is hemmed.
Figure 17.17 - Processing the bottom of the skirt
Finishing the skirt
Depending on model 01, loops are marked on the skirt and overcast on the belt and trimming details. 11ersd by wet heat treatment remove stitch threads, clean off traces of chalk and clean from industrial dust. The pleats of the skirt are fastened at a distance of 10 mm from the bottom.
Wet-heat treatment of the skirt is carried out through a moistened ironing pad from the inside of the skirt, starting with ironing the belt. Then the skirt panel is ironed, starting from the left side seam, without capturing the bottom of the product. And in the process of wet-heat treatment, the product is ironed under the allowances of the darts, the seams of the folds for taking prints. You turn the skirt to the front side and unfold the bottom edge to the rmbopiosh mu. The upper edge is folded to the side and the bottom is ironed on with a gradual movement of the product. Weasels are removed from the front side of the skirt and the skirt is steamed. Then buttons and other accessories are sewn on.
Technical description of the model.
Straight skirt made of one-colored suiting fabric.
On the front panel there are darts and finishing elements along the bottom.
On the back panel there are darts, the middle seam, at the bottom of which there is a slot. The zipper is made in the middle seam at the top with a button.
The upper cut is trimmed with a facing.
Bottom - hem seam with open cut and topstitching with finishing stitching.
Technological sequence for processing
vents on the skirt
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The name of the operation |
Speciality |
Discharge |
Equipment |
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Outline the location |
patterns, chalk |
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Duplicate spline allowances |
UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky |
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Overcast the cuts in the middle of the rear panels |
51 class, PO "Promshveimash", Podolsk |
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Sew the middle cut of the back panels |
1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Cut the allowance at the top of the right side of the spline | ||||
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Press the middle seam open |
UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky |
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Iron the right allowance of the splines on the gasket |
UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky |
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Overcast the corner of the splines along the line-edge |
1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Trim seam allowance | ||||
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Align the corner of the right side | ||||
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Sweep the bottom of the product |
needle, thimble |
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Press on bottom and spline |
UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky |
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Stitch along the edge |
1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Sewing left corner of splines |
1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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Carve out excess seam | ||||
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Align left corner | ||||
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Cover the left edge of the slots and the bottom completely |
needle, thimble |
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Iron the left corner and bottom of the product |
UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky |
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Place a finishing stitch along the bottom and secure the slot with finishing stitching at an angle of 450 to the centerline of the seam |
1022 cl, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
Technological operational map
for processing the slots in the skirt
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Operation: processing vents in the skirt |
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Specialty R M U Discharge 1.3 1.2 1.2 Time rate, from 2400 |
Equipment: 1022 cells, JSC "Orsha", Belarus, 51 cells, PO "Promshveimash", Podolsk, UPP-3M, "Legmash", Gorky, scissors, needle, thimble, pattern, chalk |
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Material: suit one-colored |
The temperature of the ironing surface is 140 0 С, the "Ideal" threads are 50-80, the frequency is 2.5 stitches per 1 cm. |
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Performance requirements |
Processing scheme |
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Check the cut details: The back half with a middle seam - 2 pieces, cut out with an allowance for a slot wide. 4-5cm, the length is equal to the length of the slots plus 1.0-1.5cm. Adhesive gasket 2 pcs. The cuts of the rear panel are swept over. Mark the slot. On the left side, the edge line should be a continuation of the middle seam. On the right cut line, the slots pass at a distance of 0.7-1.5 cm from the cut. Duplicate allowances, the left side is 0.1-0.2 cm from the bend of the spline and the bottom line, the right side so that the cut of the gasket does not reach the side cut by 0.7-1.5 cm, to the bottom line 0.1-0, 2 cm and overlapping the middle seam line by 1.5-2.0 cm |
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The details of the rear halves are folded face inward, equalizing the cuts, grind the middle seam and the upper allowance of the slots by 0.7-1.5 not reaching the side cut, the width of the seam is 1.0-1.5 cm of the upper allowance. An allowance is cut at the top of the right side of the slot before reaching the line of 0.1 cm. The middle seam is ironed out through a damp iron. | |
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The right side is processed: ironed on 0.5 cm per gasket. The corner is grinded, the allowances and excess are cut off. Turn out and cover up the bottom of the skirt, iron it on. Along the edge of the slot, a line is laid 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge. |
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Having processed the left corner, grinding it at an angle of 450 to the bottom line, sweep the edge of the slots and the bottom of the skirt. Iron through a wet iron until moisture is completely removed. A finishing line is laid along the bottom of the product and securing at an angle of 450 to the middle seam, stitching, starting from the middle seam, and finishing, not reaching 1.0-1.5 cm to the lateral allowances of the slots. |
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PROCESSING THE CUT OF A STRAIGHT SKIRT.
FIGURE CLIP SIMPLE
Mark the bartack with three lines in an equilateral triangle.
It is advisable to lay a machine stitch or a line of small manual straight stitches along the contour of the bartack.
You should start from the lower left corner of the triangle, fasten the end of the thread on the wrong side and bring the needle out to the front side of the left corner (point 1 in Figure 01).
Then in the upper corner, sew a very short stitch from right to left (points 2 and 3), pull the thread to the right side.
Stick the needle into the lower right corner (point 4) and sew a stitch from the wrong side, bring the thread out in the left corner just before the first needle puncture (point 5 in Fig. 02).
Perform bartack in accordance with the diagram shown until the triangle is completely filled with stitches.
A ready-made curly simple bartack should have the shape of an equilateral triangle (fig. 04). The stitches must not be tightened, otherwise the bartack will take on a star shape.
DIFFICULT FIGURE CLIP
Mark the bartack with three lines in an equilateral triangle. Machine stitch or small straight hand stitch along the bartack contour.
Bartack in accordance with fig. 05 and 06.
In fig. 07 shows a complex curly bartack in finished form.
FIXING THE SPLINE FROM THE WAYSIDE
To prevent damage to the product during operation
you can fix the beginning of the slots from the seamy side. To do this, a square is cut out of the lining or top fabric, the length of each side of which is approximately 6 cm. Fold the cut out part diagonally in the form of a triangle. Iron on, sweep the cuts. The hypotenuse of the resulting triangle has the necessary elasticity, this will avoid tearing the material when the spline is strongly stretched. Sew a triangle from the seamy side of the skirt, stitching along the edge of the slot when finished. Hem the triangle allowances to the slot allowances with blind stitches.
Outline of a labor training lesson in grade 7 on the topic: "Processing the side cuts of a straight skirt, processing the side seam of a straight skirt with a zipper tape»
Class: 7th grade
Chapter: sewing a straight skirt
Theme: "Processing the side cuts of a straight skirt, processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a zipper tape"
Lesson type: consolidation of knowledge, abilities, skills in the implementation of practical work; combined.
Lesson objectives:
- educational: to consolidate technical and technological knowledge and improve practical skills in processing the side sections of a straight skirt, processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a zipper tape.
Tasks: to consolidate the knowledge of students about the number and names of parts of cuts of a straight skirt, about measurements for building a drawing of a straight skirt; contribute to the formation of systemic knowledge on the manufacture of clothing.
-educating: education of work culture, aesthetic taste.
Tasks: contribute to the formation and development of the best qualities of the individual: benevolence, respect, hard work, dedication, responsibility for the results of their activities; contribute to the formation and development of creative activity.
- correctional: correction of psychophysical disabilities and social sphere by means of labor, correction of fine motor skills of hands.
Methods: visual, problem-search, verbal.
Forms: individual.
Tools and fixtures: needle, scissors, thimble, pins, sewing machine, overlock, ironing board, iron.
Materials: cut straight skirt, sewing thread.
Dictionary: straight skirt, skirt panels.
Lesson structure
1. Organizing students to explore a new topic
2. Checking the assimilation of students' knowledge of the material of the previous lesson (survey, work with patterns)
Actualization and motivation of students' knowledge and skills to study new material.
3. Communication of the topic and purpose of the lesson
4. Presentation of new material
Presentation of theoretical material in accordance with the tasks.
Checking the assimilation of knowledge.
5. Performing practical work
Induction training. Stages of practical work, organization of the workplace, safety precautions, requirements for the quality of work.
Students' independent work (practical work).
Ongoing briefings.
Checking student work.
6. Summing up the results of the lesson
Checking the assimilation of students' knowledge.
Analysis of the work of students in the classroom
Grading
Explanation of homework
7. Cleaning of workplaces
Activity lesson summary
Lesson structure
1. Organizational moment.
Target: mood for the lesson
Good afternoon everyone! And now we smiled at each other so that you have a good mood and sit down quietly. So, we begin our lesson. (Checking student attendance and readiness for the lesson).
2. Checking the assimilation of students' knowledge of the material of the previous lesson (survey).
Target: actualization of knowledge, development of logical thinking, speech, memory.
Girls! What topic did we study in previous lessons?
(Straight skirt).
And now let's recall a little the material covered.
Questions for students:
What products are skirts classified according to the method of wearing? (to belt products)
What kinds of skirts are there for the purpose? (casual, home, sports, uniform, leisure)
What kind of skirts can be cut? (straight, flared, wedge)
What fabrics can a skirt be made from? (from cotton, linen, woolen and silk fabrics)
What are the details of the straight skirt cut? (front and rear panels)
What measurements need to be taken to build a drawing of the base of a straight skirt? (waist circumference, hip circumference, back length to waist, product length)
What is used to process the upper cut of the skirt? (belt, bodice, elastic band). (Students answer questions)
We clarify the work plan for sewing a straight skirt.
Work plan for sewing a straight skirt
1. Process the darts.
2. Process the side sections.
3. Finish the fastener.
4. Process the belt.
5. Process the upper cut.
6. Process the bottom cut.
7. Iron the finished product.
Straight skirt
Now let’s rest a little. Students perform exercises with textual accompaniment. (- Physical education minute)
Well done, my dears! And now we will start exploring a new topic.
3. Communication of the topic and purpose of the lesson.
The topic of our today's lesson: "Processing the side cuts of a straight skirt, processing the fastener in the side seam of the lace-up skirt"
Write it down in your workbooks.
Lesson objectives: to consolidate technical and technological knowledge and improve practical skills in processing the side sections of a straight skirt; develop skills in working with a book; education of work culture, aesthetic taste; correction of psychophysical disabilities and social sphere by means of labor, correction of fine motor skills of hands.
4. Presentation of new material. In the last lesson, we worked with darts. Since there are four of them in the skirt, therefore, we processed all four.
Today we will process the side sections of the straight skirt and the processing of the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a zipper tape.
Processing side cuts of a straight skirt
When joining parts of the cut with a seam seam, the cuts of the seam allowances are processed so that they do not crumble. Sections of the seam seam can be processed: (Page 98 of the section "Technology. Sewing")
a - hand stitches; b - zigzag stitching; в - on an overcasting machine (overlock); d - hem seam with an open cut; d - braid; e - edging seam. We will process with you on an overcasting machine (on an overlock).
We will process side slices in the following sequence:
1. Fold the parts of the front and rear panels of the skirt with the right side inward, equalizing the cuts.
2. Sweep the details of the front and rear panels of the skirt along the marked lines.
3. Set aside on the left side cut from the top cut of the part 16 cm and draw a horizontal line that limits the length of the fastener.
4. Stitch the right side cut from the top cut and the left cut from the horizontal line (from the end of the fastener) to the bottom cut. Joint width -
2 cm from the cut of the parts.
5. Remove the basting threads. Press on the seams.
6. Finish the seams on the overcasting machine.
7. Moisten the side seams, press them in different directions, or press them towards the front panel until they are fully seated.
Side cut of a straight skirt with a zipper tape. The clasp in a straight skirt can be located in the front, back or in the side seam. More often the fastener is located in the side seam on the left side. The length of the fastener does not extend beyond the hip line. For processing the fastener, a braid is used - a zipper, as well as hooks, loops, buttons. These fixtures are called fittings. pp. 98-100 account "Technology. Sewing business
8. Open the zipper tape and direct it under the fold of the slit for the fastener on the back panel so that 1 cm remains from the edge of the skirt to the beginning of the links, and from the side the fold line approaches the edge of the links. Baste the zipper tape from top to bottom to the end of the fastener at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the fold with straight stitches 0.5 cm long
9. Close the zipper tape. Sweep its second side, directing the fold of the front panel to the fold of the rear panel so that they coincide.
10. Sew the zipper tape from the front side from the upper edge of the front panel to the upper edge of the rear panel, laying a line along the front panel at a distance of 0.8 - 1 cm from the fold, and along the back panel, retreating 0.2 cm from the fold. Remove the annotation.
Quality control: the machine stitch is straight, laid at the above distance from the folds of the front and back panels.
4. Performing practical work.
Target: the formation and consolidation of the skills of processing the side sections of a straight skirt.
Induction training. Before starting work, you need to carefully read the instructions and repeat the safety rules. Let's find out together what tools, devices and materials will be needed for work and what safety rules we need to follow.
I will ask you riddles, and you will guess:
I'm a one-legged old woman
I'm jumping across the canvas
And a long thread from the ear,
I pull like a spider web. (Needle)
(Repetition of the rules of safe work with a needle).
Experienced tool
Not big, not small. He has a lot of worries He cuts and cuts. (Scissors)
(Repetition of the rules of safe working with scissors).
In the woolen glade
A thin-legged dancer
From under the steel shoe
The stitch creeps out. (Sewing machine)
(Repetition of safety rules when working on a sewing machine, on an overlock).
It will smooth out all wrinkles. Only you do not touch him, He is hot as fire. (Iron)
(Repetition of safety rules when working with an iron).
After we have figured out what is needed for the job, what steps should be taken? (Answers of the children.)
- True, you should organize your workplace by removing all unnecessary and arranging the necessary items rationally. Prepare the workplace. (Students organize their workplaces.)
Do you have any questions about doing practical work? If there are no questions, we proceed to the task, do not forget to control our actions. We work using the instruction card.
Independent work of students. Students do hands-on work. They talk over their actions, control the implementation of actions and technical conditions according to the instructions.
Current briefing. I control the organization of the workplace, the correctness of the work, the observance of safety measures. In the course of work, students are provided with assistance, errors are corrected.
Summing up the results of the lesson.
Target: the formation of skills of self-control, mutual control.
Questions for students:
1. Why do product seams need to be processed? (Seams of the seams of the product must be processed so that they do not crumble)
2. Where can the fastener in the skirt be located? (The closure in the skirt can be located in the front, back or in the side seam)
3. What can be used to process a fastener? (For processing the fastener, a zipper tape, hooks, loops and buttons are used)
Final briefing.
Accept and evaluate student products as work is completed. Analyze the typical mistakes students make when doing work.
Assessment of student performance, selection of the best work, analysis of mistakes and analysis of the reasons that caused them.
Cleaning of workplaces.
In 3 min. before the end of the lesson, I announce: “We are putting our workplaces in order. We put the tools back in place. We check the number of needles in the needle bed. " (students clean their workplaces).
The lesson is over. Thank you for the attention. I control the cleanliness of the workplace.
"Types of seams" - Stachnoy seam in ironing. Edging. Finishing. Types of machine seams. Tuning. Machine seam diagram. Connecting. The stitching SEAM is ironed. Regional. Connecting seams. Overhead. Open cut stitching. In the hem. Types of seams. Turning. Open hem hem. Edge seams. Stance. Basic concepts.
Skirt Designs - The shape of the skirt has changed many times over the centuries. Then they began to make hoops on hinges. They are presented to clothing for the normal functioning of the human body. Silk linen chiffon poplin satin crepe de chine satin viscose. Rustic fashion has always corresponded to the way of peasant life. We will now define the name of each command.
"Requirements for the skirt" - In the 40s. skirts rise again to the knee. The skirt is similar in shape and cut to the lower part of a dress of various lengths. Performance requirements for clothing. Industrial clothing - designed to be worn in the production environment of various industries. At the beginning of the twentieth century. with the appearance of the modern silhouette, the skirt is cut flared at the back with an elongated front.
"Perpendicularity of lines" - Perpendicularity of a line and a plane. Perpendicularity of lines and planes. Perpendicular lines in space. Theorem. Interbreeding. Parallel lines perpendicular to the plane. Perpendicularity of the planes. Perpendicularity of a straight line and plane Perpendicular and oblique Dihedral angle.
"Manufacturing of hangers" - We process the workpiece along a given contour. Use a stop when sawing wood with a hacksaw. "Guess a riddle". Attention, follow the safety instructions. Tools: ruler, pencil, brace, drills? 5mm.? 10mm. Sawing. Drill 2 holes? 5mm.? 10mm. The creation of hands is a source of pleasure, It will heal the soul and fill the time.
"Making paper" - Use a hair dryer to remove the paper from the screen. Khan Batu makes a census of the population of Rus. Let stand for a few hours to soak the paper. In ancient Rome, they wrote on wax tablets. 5. Immerse the screen in the resulting solution. 1. Tear the old paper finely. 2. Fill the torn pieces with warm water.
The sequence of making a skirt. (approximate plan) 1. Preparation of patterns and fabrics for cutting. 2. Open the skirts. 3. Preparation of cut parts for processing. 4. Preparing the skirt for fitting. 5. Carrying out the fitting. 6. Correction of defects in the skirt after fitting. 7. Processing the skirt after fitting. 8. Processing of the skirt closure. 9. Processing of the stitched belt 10. Processing of the upper cut of the skirt. 11. Processing the lower cut of the skirt. 12. Finishing and finishing the skirt. WTO
Instructional card. Preparation of cut details for processing. Tools and accessories: scissors, needles, threads, measuring tape, cut details, pattern. 1. Transfer the contour lines with copy stitches. 2. Lay control lines in the middle of the front and rear panels (wedges), along the belt fold line. Self-control. Check: 1) the evenness of the stitches made with the basting and copying stitches, 2) the accuracy of the control lines, 3) whether the cut snares do not crumble.
Instructional card. Skirt preparation for fitting Tools and accessories: scissors, needles, threads, measuring tape, cut details, pattern. 1. Chop off and sweep along the outlined lines darts, folds, yoke to the main part from the wrong side. 2. Chip off the sides, sweep along the marked lines, leave cm in the left side for fastening. 3. Bend the bottom cut along the marked hem line of the bottom and sweep.
Instructional card. Fitting. Tools and accessories: work box, sour cream skirt, ruler (1 m), bodice (braid). Sequence of work: 1. Chip a corsage tape at the waist against the fastener on the figure. 2. Put on a skirt, pin it to the bodice, aligning the side seams, the middle lines of the parts with the conditional lines on the figure, chipping off the place of the fastener. 3. Clarify on the right side: the width of the skirt along the waist and hips, the length and location of the darts, the position of the side seams, the middle of the parts, the length of the product using a ruler. 4. Determine defects and their causes using the table. 5. Make corrections, if necessary: 6. Remove the skirt and transfer the correction to the left side of the part using copy stitches or pins, having previously spread the basting stitches. 7. Sweep parts along new lines in the places of correction. 8. Perform the second fitting, specifying the fit of the skirt on the figure.
Ways to eliminate defects of a straight skirt Defect and cause of occurrence Remedy The fold at the bottom diverges. The pleat allowance is not properly sewn to the waistband. Insufficient bevel of the fold downwards Position the fold along the waist line exactly along the cut of the skirt. Increase the bevel of the fold.
Processing darts Sequence of work: 1. Find the middle of the part. On the seamy side, draw a small line in the middle of the part. Lay straight stitches 1015 mm long along it. 2. On the seamy side, mark the darts with lines: middle, two lateral and transverse, limiting the length of the dart. The length of the dart must be three to four times larger than its solution, otherwise it cannot be processed correctly. For example: solution 3 cm, length 912 cm 3. Fold the part right side inward along the center line of the dart
Dart sewing (continued) 4. Sweep close to the side line of the dart, starting from the top edge to the end of the dart, securing the thread at the beginning and end of the stitch. 5. Stitch symmetrical darts along the side line from top to bottom. When sewing at the top, secure the dart with a 710 mm machine bartack. At the end, gradually reduce the line to nothing, leave the ends of the threads 56 cm long and tie them in a knot. Cut off the ends of the threads. Process the second dart in the same sequence. Remove the basting threads. 6. Iron the darts first, then iron to the middle of the part. 7. Press the slack at the end of the dart by moving the iron from one place to another, rather than sliding it over the fabric. Press to reduce the size of individual sections of the part to obtain the desired shape)
Processing a one-sided fold 1. On the wrong side of the part, mark a one-sided fold with three lines: middle (fold line), side (seam line) and a line defining the end of the fold. Mark the depth of the fold as desired. For example, the depth of the fold is 4 cm. The allowance for the fold is equal to the depth of the fold multiplied by 2, i.e. 4 x 2 = 8 cm. Mark the line that defines the sewing length at random. 2. Bend the part along the centerline with the front side inward. Sweep along the side line along the entire length of the fold. Stitch length 1015 mm. 3. Sew the fold to the marked line and finish with the machine bartack so that the seam does not tear the fold at the end of sewing. Bar tack length 710 mm. Remove the basting threads in the sewing area. 4. Lay the part face down along the ironing board. Press the crease allowance towards the left side cut. 5. Sew a finishing stitch or bartack on the right side of the part according to the model. b. After sewing a finishing stitch or bartack, remove the basting threads along the entire length of the fold. Wet-heat the fold.
Securing an opposite fold 1 Calculate the fold allowance. H is equal to the depth of one fold multiplied by 4. For example, if the depth of one fold is 3 cm, then the allowance for the fold is 3 cm x 4 = 12 cm 2. Mark the opposite fold on the seamy side of a 20x20 cm part with three lines: middle (fold line ), side and line defining the end of the fold. Freely mark the line defining the sewing length
Processing the opposite fold (continued) 3. Bend the part along the centerline with the right side inward. Sweep along the side line along the entire length of the fold. Stitch length 1015 mm 4. Stitch the fold to the marked line, finishing with a machine bartack 710 mm long. Remove the basting threads in the sewing area 5. Lay the part face down on an ironing board. Spread the crease allowance along the entire length, aligning the center line with the seam line; iron 6. Secure the pleat from the right side with a finishing stitch according to the model to prevent the pleat from shifting.
SIDE SECTION PROCESSING. 1. Fold the details of the front and rear panels of the skirt with the right sides inward, chop with pins, sweep. 2. Stitch the side cuts, leaving free space for the fastener. Make bindings. Remove the basting. 3. Neaten the side seam allowances, unfold the seams and iron them out.
Processing the zipper in the side seam of the skirt 1. Guide the opened zipper under the fold of the allowance on the back panel fastener so that the beginning of the links is 10 mm from the top edge of the skirt, positioning the fold of the fabric along the edge of the links. Baste, starting from the top edge of the skirt down to the end of the fastener, at a distance of 12 mm from the fold with straight stitches 5 mm long. 2. Close the zipper. Sweep its second side at a distance of 79 mm from the fold, directing the fold of the front panel to the fold of the rear panel so that they coincide. 3. Sew the zipper from the front from the top edge of the front panel to the bottom corner of the zipper at a distance of 1 mm from the basting. At the bottom, leave the needle in the fabric in its lowest position, raise the foot, unfold the skirt, lower the foot, sew a line perpendicular to the side seam. On the back panel, repeat this technique, sew the line at a distance of 1 mm from the basting and finish attaching the zipper at the level of the upper cut of the back panel. Remove temporary threads.
Finishing the zipper in the middle seam of the skirt 1. Open the zipper, attach it to the wrong side of the side seam and pin with pins. Baste so that the edges of the cut cover the zipper teeth on both sides. 2. Sew from top to bottom, starting from the left side of the side seam, with a mm seam from the edge of the cut, sew across at the bottom end, unfold and sew across, unfold and sew on the right side from bottom to top, bartack. 3. Remove the basting, iron through the iron.
PROCESSING THE SUSPENDED P O YAS 1. Bend the belt along the fold line with the right side inward. Chop off and sweep off the ends of the belt. 2. Overcast the ends of the waistband, securing the stitching. Remove the basting stitches, cut off the seam stock in the corners and notch the seam allowance. 3. Unscrew the belt, straighten the seams, sweep and iron. Mark with notches on the waistband at the midpoint of the front and back of the skirt.
Connecting the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt 1. Open the zipper. Fold the belt with the product right side inward, aligning the cuts. To release the allowances for turning the ends of the belt beyond the edges of the fastener: along the front panel 10 mm, along the back mm. Baste from the side of the belt with straight stitches at a distance of 8 mm from the cuts 2. Stitch from the side of the belt with a seam width of 10 mm 3. Remove temporary threads, press the seam towards the belt
Connecting the belt with the upper cut of the skirt (continued) 4. Bend the belt in the middle with the right side inward, equalizing the cut. Sweep and overstitch the ends of the belt with a seam width of 10 mm. Remove the basting threads. Cut off the seam allowance in the corners, leaving 2-4 mm (depending on the fabric shedding) 5. Turn the corners of the belt to the right side. Bend the belt along the fold line (in the middle) and sweep at a distance of 5-7 mm from the fold 6. Bend the cut of the inner part of the belt by 7 mm and sweep. Baste, overlapping the seam of the belt stitching by 3 mm 7. Place the machine stitch from the front side of the product into the seam of the belt stitching 8. Remove the temporary threads and iron the belt.
PROCESSING THE BOTTOM CUT OF THE SKIRT 1. Tuck the bottom of the product from the wrong side along the fold line and stab. 2. To sweep the allowance for processing the bottom cut, retreating 0.5 - 1 cm from the folded edge. 3. Hem the bottom of the product in one of the ways. Methods for processing the lower cut of the skirt and with blind stitches; b with a special tape; in -cross stitches; d hem and blind stitches.
FEATURES OF PROCESSING OF PARTS AND UNITS WHEN SEWING SKIRTS
Sewing in "zippers". When cutting out the skirt, do not forget to make a 3 - 4 cm allowance for the hem for the "zipper". Most often it is done on the left side. Therefore, do not sew the left side seam to the end, but fasten the line. Attach the zipper foot (single-edged) to the sewing machine. There are two ways to sew a zipper.
1st method. For a one-sided fold. Draw the contour stitches along the side of the back half of the skirt using bright threads. With chalk, draw a second line at a distance of 2 - 4 mm (towards the allowance) from the first. Bend the allowance along this line and press it on. Place the resulting fold over the right side of the zipper. Pay attention to the beginning of the zipper - the zipper should be 2 cm below the waistline. Baste, then stitch the fold against the teeth. At the same time, slightly pull the "zipper". Make sure that the line does not go beyond the side line (Fig. 15.1, a). Then fold and press the front half allowance. Place it over the closed zipper and baste to the line marked with bright thread. Draw a line on the front panel. distance 1 - 1.5 cm from the fold. On this line, baste the "zipper" and stitch it on (Fig. 15.1, b). Leave the small bump on the top of the clasp, where the lock is, unstitched. Then take out the basting, open the zipper and sew the top. Erase the chalk marks and baste the edges of the zipper to the seam allowance.
2nd siob. Under the opposite fold. Fold the allowances of the front and rear panels. Attach the resulting folds and sweep to the "zipper" so that the teeth are slightly visible. Sweep the folds together. Sew a "zipper" at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm from the fold and take out the basting (Fig. 15.1, c).
Press the zipper tape and the resulting crease over the ironing pad, placing the iron under the iron.
Hangers for skirts. They are necessary so that the skirts wrinkle as little as possible while in the closet. The hangers can be made of cotton or lining fabric or from flat silk tape 0.7 - 1 cm wide.If you decide to make hangers out of fabric, cut 2 lobe strips 10 - 12 cm long and 2.5 - 3 cm wide. bend it inside out 0.5 cm, fold the strip in half lengthwise with the wrong side inward and stitch at a distance of 1 mm from the folded edges. On skirts with a belt, sew the hangers under the belt vertically, on skirts with a bodice, attach them to the corsage ribbon also vertically.
Processing the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt. The width of such a belt can be different. It depends on the model you choose. The belt can be one-piece or two-piece, that is, with a seam along the fold line. The length of the belt can consist of several parts, make sure that the seams of the belt coincide with the side seams of the skirt or are located under the belt loops (belt loops). The ends of the belt, as a rule, go over one another and are fastened with a button with a welt loop or a metal hook with a thread loop. For such a belt, a gasket is required, which can be made from coarse calico, silk corsage tape, non-woven fabric, as well as from adhesive fabric. Cut a gasket made of coarse calico or non-woven fabric without allowances for seams and already ready-made belts by 5 mm. Baste it and stitch along the contour to the lower part of the belt 2 - 3 mm below the belt fold line. Cut out the glue pad with small allowances and glue both parts of the belt with it. Before sweeping the belt, sweep the prepared hangers to the waistline at a distance of 2 cm from the side cuts (see above for manufacturing).
The belt manufacturing technology is quite simple. Measure around your waist and add 1.5 cm for a loose fit. Cut a rectangle out of the fabric that is the same length as your waist plus 2.5 cm for the loose fit, plus 9 cm for the closure and the seams at the ends of the closure. To determine the width, you can use an iron-on cushioning tape for the belt with marked lines along the entire length. Measure the width of the intermediate tape and add 1.5 cm of seam allowance. Press the gasket along one of the cuts, and leave seam allowances along the other. Neaten or turn over long sections of the belt. The top of the still unfinished skirt should be 1.5 cm larger than the measurements you took for the finished product. This will give you the opportunity to make allowances below the waistline according to the characteristics of your figure. Mark the middle and side seams on the future belt, spreading an additional 2.5 cm into 4 pieces of 6 mm among the quarters of the belt. 
Place the upper part of the belt on the skirt face to face, baste and stitch to the upper edge of the skirt, aligning the side seam of the belt (if any) with the side seam of the skirt, evenly distributing the fit and aligning the control marks. Sew the belt to the skirt with a seam 0.5 - 0.7 cm wide along the laying line (15.2). Secure the ends of the stitches with a machine reverse stitch. Press the seam down to fit the skirt. Trim the seam allowances by different amounts, keeping the seam allowance on the base fabric as large as possible. Press the seams towards the waist. Fold the belt inward and stitch it into the hem or the stitching seam to tack the long edge of the belt from the inside of the garment. You can hem it with blind stitches. Sew a hook on the upper end, and on the lower loop (see section). If the model has decorative stitching, machine stitch (topstitch) from the front of the waistband around the entire perimeter, starting from the bottom edge, while also stitching the bottom edge of the inside of the waistband. Place the line at a distance of 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the edge. Press the finished belt from the inside through a damp iron.
Processing of the upper cut of the skirt by stitching. If you want to sew a skirt without a belt, the so-called skirt on the hips, its upper cut must be processed with a cut-off trim. First, build a pattern for this piping. On paper patterns of the front and back panels, fold and glue the depths of the darts. From the middle line to the side seams, draw lines parallel to the upper edge on the front and back panels at a distance of 6 - 7 cm from the upper edge. You will receive cut-off seam patterns along the top edge of the skirt. Transfer the seam patterns to transparent paper, while drawing the direction of the share thread, midline and other lines. Cut out the trim pieces and cut the trims from the base fabric and padding over them. Join the piping to the gasket by sweeping the bottom edges of the piping together. When sewing from knitted fabric, overcast the lower cuts on the overlock, on the woven fabric, the lower cuts can either be overcast, or wrap inward to a width of 6 mm and stitch. To the open edge of the piping, baste the tape or reps tape at a distance of 0.3 cm from the edge of the piping. Place the edge of the trim with tape face to face on the skirt and stitch. Iron the seam and stitch to the edge from the front side along the facing. Fold the piping over to the wrong side and iron the top edge. Wrap the ends of the seams inward and sew to the "zipper" with blind stitches. Sew the piping either in the side seams or with bartacks to the seam allowances and dart depths. The top cut can be trimmed in the same way. women's trousers without a belt.
Finishing the cut in the ironed seam. Sew the seam and sweep the cut. Then iron the seam and incision, remove the basting threads. Fold the cut edges inside out by 0.5 - 0.1 cm and stitch at a distance of 0.2 cm from the folded edge, fold the bottom of the product, not reaching the side cuts by 8 - 10 cm, iron. Bend the cut allowance to the right side along the ironed cut lines and grind the cut corners along the hem line. Turn the corners out and baste on the seam allowance side with straight stitches. After finishing the hem, hem the bottom corners of the cut at the hem width with blind stitches. From the front side at the top, the cut can be secured with a transverse machine stitch, double or with bartacks at the ends.
Processing of the cut-slots in the ironed seam. When cutting a skirt with a slot, allowances must be made for processing the slots along the middle seam of the back. To do this, give an allowance of 3 - 5 cm or an allowance for a one-sided fold of 6 cm. Fold the allowance to the left side of the panel, sweep and iron it. To process the underside of the slots, cut out a trim from the lining fabric, overcast its cross section. On the front side of the bottom side of the slots, place the facing with the front side inward, baste, aligning the cuts. Fold the second cut of the facing inside out by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, stitch at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and stitch the facing. Process the corners of the slots along the hem line in the same way as the corners of the cut. Secure the upper end of the splines with two transverse or oblique stitches along the entire width of the allowance from the front side along the marked line.
Skirt lining. In order for the skirt to sit better and not stick to the body, you can sew it on the lining. Cut the lining of the skirt according to the details of the main pattern. If the skirt is pleated, when cutting the lining, the folds should be “closed”, that is, laid, and the excess fabric at the waist should be removed into the darts. At the bottom, the lining should be 2 - 3 cm shorter than the skirt. If there are no slots or cuts on the skirt, leave cuts in the side seams (15 - 20 cm long) on the lining to ensure freedom of step. If there are slots or cuts on the skirt according to the model, then the cuts on the lining must correspond to them. After all the darts and seams of the lining have been sewn, baste it to the top of the skirt, folding the skirt and lining with the wrong sides inward.
Only then proceed to the processing of the belt. In the place of the cut of the skirt, sew the lining by hand or by machine to the allowances (Fig. 15.3, a). In a skirt with a slot, when cutting the lining, provide a seam that should coincide with the allowance line for the slot (Figure 15.3, b). Sew the lining along the seam extension to the slot allowances (Figure 15.3, c). There is also an easier way. Cut out the lining without additional seams, and in the place of the cut or slots, cut an arched section of the fabric to the height of the slot or cut. Neaten the edges of the cutout (its width is 4 - 5 cm), bend it by 0.5 cm on the wrong side and stitch it (Figure 15.3, d). There is no need to attach the lining to the cut - it will not be visible when walking. This is a very simple and convenient type of processing.
Processing the bottom of the skirt. If you have a standard figure and you have outlined the exact length of the skirt while still on the pattern, the bottom can be folded without trying on the skirt and without using the bottom line. If the skirt is straight, fold the edge of the skirt straight to the specified depth and press the fold by moving the iron along the length. Then hem the bottom in one of the ways to process the bottom of the product (see section).
Specify the bottom line, if necessary, after processing the "zipper" in the side seam. Put on the shoes that you intend to wear with this skirt, as well as matching underwear. Stand in front of a large mirror. Using a ruler or a special device, mark the bottom line at the required height (see Fig. 5.15). The hem of the hem can be fixed with an iron, and then the excess fabric can be trimmed. After that, lay a reinforcement stitch along the cut and hem the bottom. This can be done in any way of processing the bottom, but traditionally it is customary to use the "goat" seam - it provides a strong and at the same time invisible from the front side hemming of the bottom of the skirt. If there are flounces or wedges along the bottom of the skirt, the allowance should be folded very carefully, making sure that it lies flat from the inside out, without small gathers. It is best to carefully sweep the hem in advance. At the seams connecting panels or wedges, the basting should be interrupted, leaving long ends of the threads.
Suppose you are finishing the hem on a four-piece skirt. Place a basting stitch (2 - 3 stitches in 1 cm) at a distance of 0.5 cm from the cut along each wedge, interrupting the stitching at the seams of the connection and starting over on the next part.
If you are sewing a flared skirt with two side seams, first let it "hang down" for a day or two, attaching it to the belt by the shoulders. Then refine the bottom line again, fold the allowance, distribute it evenly from the inside out and sweep. When sewing the basting stitch, interrupt it several times. Starting from the side seam, fold the skirt along the marked bottom line around the pattern - for this it is better to use a special pattern for ironing with a rounded edge - and press the fold, then, moving the pattern, press the fold in the middle of the panel, on the other side seam and in the middle of another panel ... At the point where you ironed the fold, begin basting the hem by wrapping the beginning of the thread around the head of the pin, pierced perpendicular to the bottom line. Evenly distributing the seam allowance, carefully baste it around the circumference of the skirt, then wrap the other end of the thread around the head of the pin. Press the fold along the entire length by moving the iron in the direction of the threads. Now you can hem the bottom.
The technology of sewing godet skirts requires special attention. To sew such a skirt correctly, you need a certain treatment of the seams, which consists in the following: in skirts with one-piece wedges, before sewing them, straighten (pull) the curved line of the side seam of the wedge with an iron. Or, in the place where the wedges are sewn (at the beginning of their expansion), make cuts, not reaching the sewing line of 1 - 2 mm, in skirts with additional wedges, first connect one side of the stitched wedges with the main wedges of the skirt, and then grind all the wedges together with the stitched part ... Joint width 12 - 15 mm. Iron the seam seams. Sometimes the seams of the stitched parts of the wedges are pressed together "on the edge", thus creating folds along the bottom line. In godet skirts for stitched gussets, pleated parts and various other fabrics are used as decoration, giving the skirts a special decorative finish. In multi-seam skirts, the wedges can be divided into parts in different directions, which allows you to diversify the models, as well as rationally use the remnants of the fabric.
STRAIGHT SKIRT. SEQUENCE OF PROCESSING AND SEWING
Take the fabric consumption for such a skirt from the calculation: length plus 10 cm, with a fabric width of 140 - 150 cm.
Cutting and sewing. When cutting, the share thread of the skirt should run along the middle of the front and rear panels. Give seam allowances to the cuts: to the side - 3 cm, to the top - 1.5 cm, to the hem of the bottom - 5 cm. Mark with intermediate stitches the lines of the midpoints of the front and back panels of the skirt. Machine-stitch the waist and side lines to prevent stretching. Sweep the darts from the ends to the cuts of the parts (to the waist line) and 5 mm above the waist line vertically, but not in the continuation of the dart (Fig. 15.4, a). Sweep away all seams. Baste the belt. Try on the skirt. Refine it in width and length. Side and back seams should be vertical. Unfold the skirt and adjust the cut. Overcast open cuts.
Sew the darts in the opposite direction, nullifying the stitching, and remove the ends of the threads without a knot in the fold of the darts. Press the darts: first, from the inside out along the fold, pulling slightly so that the fold of the dart becomes slightly convex. Place the folds of the darts in the middle of the product and continue to press the resulting bulge at the end of the dart. And so that the dart does not print on the front side, put thick paper under its fold. Moisten the section of fabric at the end of the dart thoroughly by placing a cloth soaked in water on it and holding the iron over it. Then, slightly collecting this section of fabric with the fingers of your left hand, begin to rearrange the iron from the edges to the center from one section to another until the bulge disappears completely and the fabric dries out (Fig. 15.4, b). 
There are "dry" dense fabrics (with the addition of synthetic fibers), which take a very long time to "fight" during the described operation, in several steps as the swelling of the skirt section at the end of the dart decreases.
Most importantly, don't despair. The guarantee that the skirt will "fit" perfectly is, to a large extent, long and high-quality work with the iron. There is a way that eliminates the "fight" with "dry" fabrics, carried out with an iron: when cutting, take into account the quality of the fabric and do not make darts with a large solution or replace 1 dart with a large solution with two with a smaller solution. Sweep the side seams and, if available, the middle seams of the back and front, sweep from top to bottom, and stitch, on the contrary, from bottom to top, remembering to secure the seam with a reverse machine stitch and leave a slit for the zipper. Iron the seams of the skirt, straightening them in both directions. Place heavy paper under the cut edges of the seam allowances, and be careful not to bend the seam line when ironing. Iron the section of the fastener only in a creamy form. Sew in the zipper. Refine the bottom line of the skirt.
The processing of the belt, which should be the next step, is the same for all skirts (except for elasticated skirts), it is described in detail above. Hem the bottom of the skirt. This completes the processing of a straight skirt without a cut or slots and lining. For those who decided to sew a straight skirt with these details, the description is given above. But keep in mind that all this must be done before the stages of processing the belt and bottom. Finish the cut or slot (see above). Sew the lining in the same order as the skirt, making sure to leave room for the fastener. Then join the lining to the skirt with the wrong sides inward, chipping them together along the waistline, and then sweeping along the waistline. Attach the lining cut to the "zipper" by hand, carefully bending the lining seam allowances to the required amount; sew on the belt (see above).