How to sew pants with your own hands. How to quickly sew women's trousers without a pattern with your own hands. Cut out from the main fabric

The pattern and tailoring of women's trousers is a complex process that requires serious attention and precision. The key to success is the precise implementation of instructions. Each action must be performed sequentially, not forgetting the small details. Below is a step-by-step guide to successfully creating women's trousers with the perfect fit at home.

To increase the speed of tailoring, you need to prepare in advance for this process. Tools you may need:

  • sewing machine with spare replaceable needles;
  • threads;
  • scissors;
  • crayon or washable felt-tip pen for cutting fabric;
  • sheets of paper (preferably graph paper) for making patterns; pencil;
  • meter wooden ruler;
  • flexible measuring tape;
  • pattern;
  • iron.

It is also necessary to prepare material for potential trousers. It is advisable to use only one type of fabric for one thing, because different types can react in their own way to washing, ironing, etc.

Before sewing, the material must be washed and dried. This is done in order to get rid of natural shedding and possible shrinkage.

IMPORTANT! In order for the fabric to be obedient, it should be “compacted”. To do this, generously rub the fabric with a simple solid soap and squeeze out the remaining liquid a little without rinsing. Next - dry and start cutting. After finishing work, wash again with a double rinse. If you follow these rules, the resulting thing will not shrink much and will have a perfect seam.

The process of creating any new thing is divided into several stages:

  1. Development and construction of patterns.
  2. Carrying out cutting of material and connection of component parts.
  3. Fits.
  4. Final tailoring.

Let's get started!

How to sew women's pants with the perfect fit

For a perfect fit of sewn trousers, it is necessary to take measurements accurately and according to all the rules, and also clearly follow the instructions for building a pattern.

It is necessary to take into account the features of the human figure, because for obese women a special style of things is suitable. A very important role is played by the quality of raw materials for the manufacture of new clothes, because the properties of the thing depend on the type of fabric. The greater the advantages of the material, the more functional and high-quality clothes will be.

Building a pattern takes up most of the whole process. The success of the final result depends on it. The pattern drawing is applied to plain paper. First, the basics of the pattern are drawn, and then the classic style of women's trousers.

ON A NOTE! The pattern pattern is conveniently applied to a cellophane sheet, which can be purchased at a hardware store. It is very convenient and practical, because the service life of this material is high!

We take measurements for the cut of women's trousers

It is advisable to take the correct measurements in underwear using a centimeter flexible tape. This will eliminate measurement errors as much as possible, which is necessary for a better result. Hold the tape with the numbers facing out.

During this process, you need to stand straight, trying not to hunch your back.

ON A NOTE! Before performing measuring work, for greater accuracy, a small rope can be tied to the waist. With this technique, the measurement lines will be clearly visible.

How to take measurements correctly

When taking measurements, wrap around the desired circle should not be tight, while not wide. A snug fit of the tape to the body with the possibility of its sliding is required.

For tailoring women's trousers, you need to measure the following quantities:

  • Semicircle of the waist and hips. The waist is measured at the narrowest point (it is located above the navel). Hips - on the widest in the buttocks. The result obtained by both measures is divided by two.

ON A NOTE! To accept all the features of the figure, you can define a segment in the "breeches" area. This is the maximum length of the bulge on the hips. If it is larger than that calculated on the buttocks, this result should be taken to calculate the pattern.

  • Knee length. This is the distance from the waist to the knee of the model. The measurement is taken from the front.
  • Side length. The distance from the waist to the bottom end of the leg. Measured from the side, the measuring tape fits snugly around the waist and hip.
  • bottom width. The desired width of the trousers is taken into account based on the style of the product.
  • Half knee. Measured parallel to the floor; measure is divided in half.
  • Hip girth. This is the largest upper part of the leg, which is located below the groin.
  • Leg circumference. The maximum width of the calf muscle, which is below the knee, is measured horizontally.
  • Ankle circumference. Horizontal dimension.
  • Seat height. This measurement is taken while sitting. The distance from the waist to the seat surface is taken into account. A vertical measurement that is taken perpendicular to the floor.

The main designations of measurements on the pattern

A pattern drawing is a scheme, following which any fashionable thing can be made from a piece of ordinary fabric. In this figure, the main designations of measurements and their sizes are clearly and concisely applied.

For tailoring trousers, the following abbreviations are used:

  1. St - Semicircumference of the waist.
  2. Sat - Semicircumference of the hips.
  3. Dbk - The length of the trousers to the knee.
  4. dB - Side length.
  5. Shn - The lower width of the trousers.
  6. SK - Half circumference of the knee.
  7. Sun - Seat height.
  8. Fri - An increase in the waist (for free relief).
  9. Pb - The increase in the hips of Fri and Pb depends on the individual characteristics of the human body and on the style of the trousers. On the average figure is allowed: Pb = 1 cm; Pb=0.

How to build the basis of a women's trousers pattern step by step

The basis of the women's trouser pattern is two correctly drawn figures. For their accurate calculation, all measurements taken are transferred to a sheet of paper. Stages of building a drawing:

  • We measure the length on paper based on the scale of the picture.
  • We make designations in width for greater convenience.
  • We indicate additional designations that are needed for the correct creation of trousers.

For example, we use the calculations indicated in centimeters:

Hips=108

Waist=82

Development of the front half of the base for women's trousers

Calculate the width of the front half of the trousers using the formula:

Shppb=1/4*Hip circumference-1 centimeter=1/4*108-1=26

Width of the back half of the trousers:

Shzpb \u003d 1/4 * Hip circumference + Pb + Fri \u003d 27

¼ Shzpb \u003d 6.75

  1. For the correct construction of the pattern, it is required to draw two perpendicular lines, where O is the point of their intersection. From it you need to postpone the segment OA \u003d Shppb \u003d 26.
  2. From the same point we draw a vertical segment OB=Vs=27.6; perpendicular Shppb. In the same place, we measure OK \u003d Dbk \u003d 59 and OH1 \u003d Db \u003d 103.
  3. From point B upwards we measure BB1=1/10*Sb+3=8.4
  4. We draw horizontal perpendicular lines from points B, B1, K, H1.
  5. From point A, lower the line down to the line coming out of B. We got the intersection points B2, C.
  6. Segment B2B3 \u003d 1/10 * Sat + 1 \u003d 6.4
  7. B1B3 must be divided into two equal parts, from which the point B4 is obtained.
  8. The dividing line of the pants arrow is drawn through this point. A2, B1 are formed.
  9. From point B1 in both directions along the line, you need to measure the segments: H1H3 \u003d H1H2 \u003d 1 / 4Shn-1 \u003d 5.
  10. Draw segments B1H2, B3H3. From this, points B0, C1, K2, K3 are obtained.
  11. Measure 0.5 from B2.
  12. Measure point С1=С2 up vertically in a straight line. Draw line segment C1C2.
  13. A1A3 is approximately equal to 1. Draw a rounded line from A1 to C1C2. Connect A3 and C1 using the pattern.

The front base is ready.

Development of the back half of the base of women's trousers

After drawing the front of the trousers, the back is drawn.

  • From B4 you need to measure 1 cm. The result is a segment B4B5 = 1 (this is necessary to remove the arrow of the back half of the trousers). Draw B5K1 with a thin line.
  • From B5, draw B6 to the right, where B5B6 \u003d 1/4 * Wzpb \u003d 6.75.
  • From B0 set aside 4 cm up the picture.

ON A NOTE! On trousers for figures with lush buttocks, this coefficient will be 3; with a body structure with flat buttocks - 5.

  • Cross G and B6. From B6 draw a perpendicular to GV6 up and down.
  • Make a segment G1G2 \u003d Wzpb \u003d 27.
  • Draw the segment G1G2 parallel to V6G so that G2 is on segments H.

ON A NOTE! When developing and drawing patterns, it is convenient to use a measuring triangle.

  • Create point Г3, where В5Г2 = В5Г3.
  • Draw a point K4 and K5, setting aside 2 cm from the line of the side and step seams. Form a segment K5G3.
  • Draw a line from K4 through G2 to the waist - point T has come out.
  • Draw T1, where K1T1 = K1T, while T1 must lie on the straight line of point B6.
  • Connect segment TT1. Measure 0.5 from T1 and get the segment T2B6.

This part is also done. It remains only to transfer them to the fabric and cut them out.

Pattern of classic women's trousers

To build a pattern of classic women's trousers, you need to calculate the darts of the back and front halves and correctly draw up the lines of the middle seam for further work with the material.

Front half tuck.

  1. Measure A3A4 \u003d 1/4 * Waist circumference + 2 (for tuck) + 0.5 (for fit) \u003d 23.
  2. Raise A4 by 0.5 and connect the resulting curved segment with a pattern.
  3. Divide the length between A2 and 0.5 equally, draw a perpendicular to the line of points B.
  4. Make a tuck line, 10 deep and 0.5 wide.

Back half tuck.

  1. T2T3 \u003d 1/4 * Waist girth + 3 (tuck in the back half) + 0.5 (for a good fit) \u003d 24.
  2. dB = 103, as on the front.
  3. T2T3 is divided equally. The tuck will be 13 cm long and 2 - 3 cm wide. It is drawn perpendicular to the waist.
  4. K5G4 \u003d C1C3-0.5
  5. Using the pattern, connect V6G4. This will be the middle seam line.

How to sew women's trousers with your own hands: step by step instructions for beginners

For tailoring trousers with minimal material costs, you need:

  1. According to the calculated patterns, cut the fabric.
  2. Sharpen all details of the drawing.
  3. Carry out the adjustment of the material.
  4. Carry out the final assembly of components.

Let's take a closer look at all of the above steps.

Making fabric cuts

For convenience, the formed patterns must be cut with scissors from sheets of paper, using chalk or a washable felt-tip pen. On the fabric, all the details are distributed starting from the largest, ending with the smallest.

We grind the details

After the distribution of the components, you need to mark all the side control points of the drawing for the correct drawing of the lines of the drawing. The width of the lines should be one or two millimeters.

It is necessary to take into account seam allowances, which depend on the quality of the material.

IMPORTANT! If the threads fall out abundantly from the cut edge, then there is more retreat (about 3-4 cm).

After rechecking each size separately, you need to cut out all the components.

We carry out the adjustment

In order to ensure that the trousers are the correct size, the front and back pieces are secured with sewing pins and compared to the model's proportions. At this stage, errors are corrected, if any error was made, the convenience of landing is taken into account.

Only after making sure that the measurements are correct, the parts are assembled and the product is sewn.

Final assembly of parts

Instructions for the correct tailoring of trousers:

  1. Sew darts.
  2. If there are pockets, they need to be stitched (connected on one side).
  3. Sew and overcast side seams.
  4. Sew the inner cuts.
  5. Sew the seam of the seat.
  6. Overcast the existing fastener.
  7. Stitch the belt and braid.
  8. Tuck the trouser leg allowances and process.
  9. If there are buttons, sew on.

Now you can wear custom made trousers.

To keep things running smoothly, consider the following tips:

  • for tailoring classic women's trousers, you need to choose a dense, high-quality fabric that can tolerate systematic ironing (for example, cashmere or cloth);
  • always use decating before work (washing and drying the material);
  • when connecting the component parts, it is advisable to use an iron to smooth the seams;
  • after finishing work with the sewing machine, you need to iron the trousers again, not forgetting the front arrow.

If you follow all the instructions completely, you will get great classic women's trousers with a perfect fit! Good luck with your work!

Trousers have been a staple in every woman's wardrobe for over a century. This is a fairly durable item that can be combined with a lot of other clothes. And this greatly expands the set of images for everyday work and special occasions.

zarina.ru

Even if you have just begun to master the intricacies of sewing and have never taken on women's or men's pants, it will be quite easy to fill this gap with detailed instructions.

Sewing trousers with your own hands is quite simple, if you immediately decide on a style that is in harmony with the type of figure.

Modern fashion has a wide range of interesting styles. For the first time, it is recommended to focus on the classic, straight type of trousers without pockets. They are suitable for all types of figures, so any of the sewers will be able to replenish their wardrobe with their own original model. According to this method of modeling, it is possible to perform other types.

Modeling based on a classic trouser pattern

  • Tight pants with arrows.
  • Jeans with a low waist.
  • Flared pants.
  • Trousers-pipes.
  • Trousers.
  • Boyfriends.

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Textile

The choice of fabric is the most important step before the main work on creating trousers, since the level of complexity of tailoring will depend on the material. The process also takes into account the season of planned wear.

There is a conditional division of materials into two types: spring/summer and autumn/winter. For the first type, light materials are suitable: linen, silk, cotton fabrics. For winter and autumn, it is preferable to take woolen and half-woolen.

Also, the fabric often dictates and determines the style. For example, corduroy pants are more often used for sportswear, while classic noble natural materials (tweed, cashmere, angora) will be more appropriate for official events.

alicdn.com

The amount of fabric needed to create trousers depends on two main criteria:

  • clothing size;
  • selected style.

There is also some advice when buying fabric. In order not to be mistaken, add 25-30 cm to one length of the product for processing. Processing costs consist of the number of finishing fragments (pockets, belts, decorative elements). For the lining of trousers, it is customary to buy fabric equal to one length of the product.

Required measurements

  • Waist circumference.
  • Hip circumference.
  • Seat height.
  • Hip height.
  • Desired product length.

Take measurements with a measuring tape. All measurements, except for seat height, are taken while standing. The seat height is determined in a sitting position, taken from the surface of the chair or armchair to the waist.

Tailoring of trousers

For work, it is permissible to use an already formed drawing or take your purchased trousers and model a new product according to them. We have developed a master class in which the trousers are sewn according to the finished pattern. However, for convenience, we present a variant of the pattern for normal work with the drawing.

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Materials and tools

  • A pair of old trousers that fit you well.
  • Paper.
  • Pen.
  • Scissors.
  • Chalk or soap.
  • Needles.
  • Material according to size (about 2 m).
  • Sewing machine.
  • Rubber.

These charming tapered trousers are the perfect fashionable combi partner to any top or jacket. Not a single fashionista can do without such trousers. Shortened and tapered at the bottom, the trousers perfectly fit the figure due to soft folds and at the same time allow you to demonstrate beautiful shoes. Combine these trousers with a short jacket that matches the color - and a spectacular look is ready!

Pattern of tapered trousers - details

Rice. 1-2. Sketch of skinny pants front and back

Skinny Pants Pattern - Modeling

The pattern of skinny trousers is modeled according to. The length from the waist is about 97 cm, the width of the legs along the bottom is 29 cm. On the pattern-base of women's trousers, apply modeling lines as shown in Fig. 3. Pattern of skinny trousers - modeling the front and back halves.

IMPORTANT! The waist line of the trousers is underestimated, so before you start modeling the trousers, set aside 3 cm from the waist line down (on the front and back halves of the pattern-base of the trousers), draw a new low waist line, cut along the line.

Rice. 3. Pattern of skinny trousers - modeling the front and back halves

Modeling the front half of the trousers

Draw the pocket entry line, leaving 4 cm along the waistline to the right and 14 cm down, and pocket burlap. Turn the tuck into a pleat. Make an increase for a one-piece valance 3-4 cm wide and about 14 cm long (for sewing a zipper).

Taper the bottom of the trousers to 14 cm, and shorten to your measurements (the length of the trousers depends on your height).

For the second fold, additional volume is needed. To do this, cut the pattern along the line of the arrow and spread it 4 cm apart - you got a second fold and additional volume on the hips.

Modeling the back half of the trousers

Narrow the back half of the trousers to 15 cm and shorten. The width of the back leg at the bottom should be 1-2 cm more than the width of the front leg at the bottom. Draw pocket entry lines 15 cm wide and 1.5 cm high.

Pattern of tapered trousers - cutting

On fig. 4. details of the cut of skinny trousers are presented. Please note that the detachable barrel, one-piece with pocket burlap, is cut out of a plain black fabric. Fabric consumption for trousers is 1.4-1.5 m with a width of 145 cm.

Rice. 4. Pattern of skinny trousers - cut details

From the main fabric cut out:

  1. The front half of the trousers - 2 parts
  2. The back half of the trousers - 2 parts
  3. The belt of the front half of the trousers is 4 parts 8 cm wide (5 cm in finished form) and the length along the tail section of the front half, taking into account the entry into the fastener.
  4. The belt of the back half of the trousers is 4 parts 8 cm wide (5 cm in finished form) and length along the tail cut of the back half, excluding the tuck.
  5. Side pocket burlap - 2 parts
  6. Back pocket burlap - 4 pieces 18 cm wide x 20 cm long
  7. Back pocket lining - 2 pieces 5 cm wide and 18 cm long
From plain black fabric cut out:

Cutting barrel, one-piece with burlap - 2 parts

Seam allowances - 1.5 cm, on the bottom of the trousers - 2 cm.

How to sew skinny pants

On the front halves of the trousers, perform. On the back halves of the trousers, perform.

Lay the pleats on the front halves in the direction indicated by the arrows.

Sweep and stitch the side and step sections, the middle seam, leaving an open area for attaching the zipper. Front .

External details of the belt. Stitch the reinforced and non-reinforced parts of the belt together along the side seams and the middle seam of the back at an angle (in order for the belt to fit snugly around the waist, the connecting seams should be laid in such a way that the belt along the top cut is narrower than along the bottom, so each seam should be laid at 0 .5 cm to the left to the top of the intended line). Cut and iron the allowances.

Stitch the outer reinforced part of the belt into the trousers, aligning it along the side seams, put the unreinforced part of the belt face to face on the stitched-in part, sew along the upper allowance and short allowances, unscrew, sweep cleanly, tuck open allowances and baste. Sew the belt along the edge, sew on the loops according to the markings.

Overcast the bottom allowance of the trousers, fold it over and hem it manually with blind stitches.

Your skinny pants are ready, wear them with pleasure! You will find even more new interesting ideas on the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School website. Subscribe to free lessons and sew fashionable clothes with us!

Skinny pants have remained relevant for many years, and are unlikely to leave fashionable Olympus in the near future. The details change a little, but the tapered cut itself remains unchanged. So, high- and medium-rise trousers, shortened at the bottom, are popular today. The pattern of just such trousers is presented in today's article. In addition, I offer 2 options for stylish skinny trousers by Marlene Mukai. So, first things first.

Pattern of cropped trousers, tapered down

Any trouser fabric is suitable for tailoring trousers. If you want the pants to be elastic, then it is better to give preference to fabrics with the addition of elastane. Otherwise, you can choose fabrics that hold their shape well. Since cropped jeans are in fashion now, you can choose thin denim, or cotton fabrics dyed to look like jeans.

At the end of the sewing description, you can download patterns of cropped trousers for sizes 40,44,48.

cutting

  • 1. The front half of the trousers - 2 children. (bottom hem allowance not less than 4.5 cm)
  • 2. The back half of the trousers - 2 children. (bottom hem allowance not less than 4.5 cm)
  • 3. Front of the belt - 4 parts
  • 4. The back of the belt - 2 parts with a fold
  • Pocket lining - 2 parts (copy from part 1) Rectangle 6 cm wide and equal to the length of the zipper, plus allowances (for fastening)
  • 5 strips 2.5 x 5 cm plus allowances (for belt loops)

Cut out from the lining material:

  • Pocket lining - 2 parts

Sewing cropped trousers

Duplicate two parts of the front part of the belt and one part of the back part with adhesive cushioning material.

On each front half of the trousers, make a welt pocket with a leaflet with set-in ends in waist products: pin one part of the lining from the inside along the pocket marking, inside out down. Cut out a leaflet in the longitudinal direction of the warp threads from the base material - a strip, the width of which is equal to twice the width of the leaflet plus seam allowances on both sides, and the length is equal to the length of the entrance to the pocket plus seam allowances on both sides. Duplicate half the width of the leaflet with adhesive cushioning material. Iron the leaf along the center inside out. Sew the leaflet on the main part according to the marking with the front sides, directing the leaflet with a fold towards the middle of the main part (or down if the leaflet is horizontal).

On the other side of the pocket marking, sew a gap (cut out from the base material in the form of a strip with a length equal to the length of the leaflet and a width of about 5-6 cm) of the faces. side down so that the area between the lines is equal to the width of the leaflet in finished form (= length from the fold of the leaflet to the stitching line).

Cut between the lines of the main part and the lining with diagonal notches to the ends of the lines, bend the leaf forward (or up - according to the model), the gap is inside out. Sew the seam edges of the stitches with a zigzag stitch. leaflets on the lining of the pocket. According to the model - stitch the seam to the edge of the stitch. leaflets.

Over the valance, lay the 2nd part of the pocket lining. Straighten the valance and sew the inside of the valance onto the pocket lining with a zigzag stitch. Secure the ends of the pocket by sewing along the base of the corners of the seam allowances. Stitch the edges of the pocket lining. Lay a through line in the seam of attaching the leaves and along the seams at the ends of the pocket from the front or back side. According to the model - lay the line to the edge along the seam of the stitches. leaflets and at the ends of the pocket. Baste the pocket lining to the cuts of the main piece.

Treat the tuck on each back half of the trousers.

Stitch the sides of the trousers from the top to the bottom, leaving open areas for the slots on the side of the trousers and on the side of the hem allowances (3.5 cm from the bottom line on both sides).

Sew the crotch and mid-section of the trousers (leave the zipper section unstitched in the front middle seam).

Treat the fastener with a zipper and a slope.

Process the stitched belt with loops.

Bend the bottom hem to the faces. side and grind the side cuts of the slot. Bend the hem of the bottom of the cropped trousers to the wrong side, straighten the turned edges; iron and hand-hem the bottom hem with blind stitches.

At the ends of the belt, sew a loop; sew on a button.

Iron the front and back folds of the trousers (“arrows”).

Download patterns of cropped trousers, tapered down:

Patterns of skinny women's trousers from Marlene Mukay

And two more models of skinny women's trousers from Marlene Mukay. The sizes are in Portuguese, the table is attached below.

Size 36 Size 38 Size 40 Size 42
Size 44 Size 46 Size 48 Size 50
Size 52 Size 54 Size 56

After building a pattern of women's or men's trousers, you can start sewing them.

To sew well-fitting trousers with your own hands, you must adhere to a certain sequence of work. In this article, we will look at the typical technology for sewing trousers.

In order to correctly cut the fabric, you need to familiarize yourself with some recommendations for cutting.

Cutting the details of the trousers

First of all, the fabric must be prepared for cutting before it starts, that is, if necessary (treated to prevent shrinkage).

Carefully consider the right side of the fabric: the direction of the grain thread, pile, pattern, etc. As a general rule, the warp threads on the fabric run in the direction of the edge of the fabric.

If the fabric for cutting has a pile coating (plush, velvet, velveteen) or the pattern of the fabric is directed in one direction, then all the main details are laid out in one direction.

On fabrics with a large pattern, the details of the pattern are laid out so as to preserve the pattern as much as possible or arrange it symmetrically.

On striped fabrics, the middle of all details should coincide with the middle of the central strip. On fabrics in a cage and a strip, the details of the pattern should be laid out so that the cells and stripes coincide at the points of their connections.

As a rule, the layout on the fabric begins with the main details, then additional ones are placed in the remaining gaps.

When laying out on fabric, do not forget to leave room for seam allowances.

Be sure to check that the direction of the grain thread on each part matches the direction of the grain thread on the fabric, fixing each piece with pins to prevent displacement during cutting.

Seam allowances:

  • for hem hem 4-6 cm
  • on the side and step seams 1-1.5 cm
  • on the middle back seam 2-3 cm (if you need to expand the pants)
  • along the line of the middle of the front on a one-piece facing for a zipper 3-4 cm
  • the width of the remaining allowances 1 cm
  1. Marking the position of pockets and darts;
  2. WTO (wet heat treatment) of the front and back of the trousers;
  3. Trying on trousers;
  4. Processing pockets and darts on the front and back of the trousers;
  5. Zipper processing;
  6. Stitching side and step sections of trousers;
  7. Stitching the middle sections of trousers;
  8. Harness preparation;
  9. Processing the upper cut of the trousers with a belt;
  10. Processing the bottom of the trousers;
  11. Finishing product.

Stage 1. Pockets and Darts

It is recommended to mark the position of the pocket and darts on the front and back of the trousers before starting any processing. After wet-heat treatment, this will be difficult to do, since the parts will acquire a given volume.

After marking the pocket and waist tuck lines on one part, it must be transferred to a paired part. Then lay straight stitches manually along the marked lines so that the marking lines are preserved during processing.

See pocket options.

Stage 2. Wet-heat treatment of trousers (WTO)

Under wet heat treatment understand the pulling and shrinking of individual sections of the trousers to give them a shape corresponding to the contours of the body.

For tight trousers, the WTO is needed to a greater extent than for loose-fitting trousers. Striped and plaid fabrics are better not to be subjected to WTO, as suturing and pulling the fabric will disrupt the pattern.

WTO can be omitted on wide or short trousers (it is enough to iron the arrow), as well as when using fabrics made of cotton, viscose or silk.

In trousers made of fabrics containing a large percentage of synthetic fibers, the WTO is not performed.

WTO front halves of trousers

1. Both front halves are folded right sides inward, aligning the control lines and ironing lines.

2. At the same time, on two halves, step and side cuts are pulled down at the level of the calf from the knee line down. The slack in the fabric formed in this area is sutured to the line of the arrow.

The bulge in the thigh area is slightly sutured only for stretchy fabric and steep hips. If the thigh is very convex, then in the step area along the line of the arrow, a guy is performed.

If the fabric is stretched and there is a wave along the bow line when cutting, then in this area you can make a suture using machine stitching.

4. Separate the front halves and fold each one along the ironing line with the wrong side inward and lightly iron along the fold.

The step and side cuts are aligned in the knee area so that there is no broken line. You can remove it with a light pull or correct it with scissors.

The ironing line is stretched under the knee, and the side and step cuts are stretched. After that, when a beautiful shape of the leg appears, the ironing line is finally ironed.

5. Check the equality of the front halves by laying them on top of each other and aligning the control lines.

WTO back halves of trousers

1. The back halves of the trousers are folded together with the front sides inward, aligning the control lines and the ironing lines.

2. At the level of the knee, the side and step sections are pulled back, the resulting slack in the fabric is sutured to the line of the arrow.

At the level of the calf, the side and step sections are sutured, and along the line of the arrow, a guy is performed.

The seat line is pulled, while tightening the resulting slack in the area of ​​the subgluteal fold.

If a bulge has formed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe thigh line, then it is sutured or simply fixed with a machine stitch.

3. Both halves of the trousers are turned to the other side and all operations are repeated.

4. Each half is folded separately along the ironing line inside out, aligning the control lines.

A small pull is performed along the fold in the calf area, and the resulting or remaining slack in the area of ​​​​the seams is sutured.

The knee area is sutured along the arrow, and pulled along the seams.

They fit well in the region of the subgluteal fold.

5. Check the equality of the back halves of the trousers by laying them on top of each other, aligning the control lines.

After wet-heat treatment, the length of the step and side cuts of the front and back halves of the trousers is checked by superimposing them one on top of the other.

Stage 3. Trying on trousers

Sweep the details of the trousers along the marked lines, while controlling the alignment of all control marks.

Pants prepared for fitting are put on, the clasp is stabbed with pins. Inspect and, if necessary, clarify or correct:

  • the width of the trousers along the waist, hips, knee, bottom.
  • pants length and seat line depth
  • the correct position of the ironing line
  • the location of the darts and their depth
  • pocket layout
  • belt position

After trying on, unfold the trousers, if you want to complete the WTO of all halves separately, check their equality and finally iron the ironing line.

Stage 4 . Processing pockets and darts

Stitch the darts along the marked lines on the front and back halves of the trousers. First iron the seam allowances on the darts, then iron them to the middle cuts, tightening the slack at the ends of the darts.

Process pockets on the main details:,

Overcast all sections of the main details, except for the waist line.

Secure the waistline in each half of the trousers from stretching by laying a small line or gluing with a strip of interlining.

Prepare the bottom of the trousers for stitching the crotch and side seams. If the hem is a regular hem, then you can immediately glue the wrong side along the hem and its allowance, and if the hem with a cuff is glued, depending on the type of cuff.

Step 5. Processing the zipper

Stage 6. Stitching the side and step cuts

Put the front halves of the trousers on the back halves of the front sides.

Chip off the side and step cuts by aligning the lines of the thigh, step and knee.

Stitch the cuts from top to bottom, pulling the seam well.

Iron the seam allowances.

If a finishing line is performed along the side seams of the trousers, then the sections are ironed to the front halves and adjusted until the step seams are sewn.

Stage 7. Stitching the middle sections

Turn one half of the trousers inside out. Put the halves of the trousers into one another with the front sides.

Pin and stitch the back middle sections with two lines, laying the second line at a distance of 0.1 cm from the first, while pulling the seam.

Iron the seam allowances from the top to the step rounding.


Stage 8. Harvesting of belt loops

The number of loops and their width depends on the model of trousers. On average, the width of the belt loop in finished form is 1 cm.

Take a strip of fabric 4 cm wide and iron the longitudinal sections to the middle with the wrong side inward. Next, fold the strip in half lengthwise inside out. Sew along the longitudinal edges and topstitch the fold along the edge.

Cut the belt loop piece into six pieces.

Loops are located two on the front of the trousers (above the darts / between the pleats and above the side pockets) and one on the back (above the waist darts).

On the right side of the trousers, put the belt loops right sides down, pin and baste.

After sewing on the waistband, fold the upper sections of the belt loops inward and sew the folds onto the waistband of the trousers.

Stage 9. Processing the top cut of the trousers

Stage 10. Processing the bottom of the trousers

Iron the hem allowances to the wrong side, pin and sew by hand with loose stitches or lay a machine stitch.

Stage 11. Finishing the trousers

Remove traces of chalk, industrial waste from ready-made trousers, cut the ends of the threads.

Carry out the final WTO of the trousers using an iron.

WTO start from the top of the trousers: process the belt, fastener, darts, front and back pockets, middle seam. Then iron the bottom of the trousers, matching the crotch and side seams. Straighten the lines of the front and back folds of the trousers. Iron the bottom of the trousers.

To fix the form (for drying), the trousers should be hung on a hanger for 30-40 minutes.