The emergence of fashion and style. Fashion: from ancient times to the present day

24.06.2019

Class

At all times, women have strived to look beautiful. Clothes play an important role in creating a beautiful look. Modern women of fashion adhere to different styles, there are a lot of alternatives in fashion nowadays, the choice of clothes is amazing. But I propose to plunge into the past and see how fashion has changed over different decades.

30th year

In 1929, the world was gripped by an economic crisis, which made its own adjustments to the world of the fashion industry. Clothes were treated sparingly and carefully, old things were darned, altered.

To get an elongated silhouette that was fashionable in those years, frills, ruffles, flounces were sewn to old dresses.

The length of the dresses and skirts reached to the ankles, and, moreover, the skirts were cut obliquely. Mandatory elements of women's clothing were lantern sleeves, deep cutouts in the neckline and on the back, and turn-down collars.

The film industry has had a great influence on fashion. The main style icons were famous film actresses of the 30s, such as Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn. These women showed what is now called "Hollywood chic": dresses with trains, decorated with fabric flowers, bows, with a long peplum.

Fur was considered a chic accessory, fur capes and capes were especially popular. Handbags, various hats (with wide brims, small pill hats, berets) and gloves are the must-have attributes of the fashionistas' clothes of the 30s.

Outstanding designers of that time include Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Chanel offered conservative, classic designs. Elsa Schiaparelli amazed with her extravagant, avant-garde outfits.

40s

For fashion of the 40s. was greatly influenced by the Second World War. Silhouettes with broad shoulders, in the military style, came into fashion. Women's jackets resembled the military uniform of men. The length of skirts and dresses has become shorter, just below the knees. The lack of accessories led to the fact that they began to make homemade buttons covered with fabric.

Regarding headwear, hats were replaced by kerchiefs. In the USA and Europe, the turban, which was made from scarves and tied in various ways, was considered a special chic.

The most desirable wardrobe item of every fashionista was thin nylon or silk stockings. But it was practically impossible to get them, since nylon and silk were used for sewing parachutes, so the use of these fabrics for other purposes was prohibited. Women were forced to imitate stockings by drawing a seam on the back of their legs.

At the end of the war, in the mid-40s. there are changes in fashion. In the 45th, Cristobal Balenciaga was the first to show models of dresses with elongated skirts. At the beginning of 1946, dresses and sheath skirts that accentuated the hips became fashionable, and by the end of the year, fluffy skirts and asymmetrical hems became popular.

50s

The most iconic style of the 1950s was Christian Dior's New Look. Dresses were supposed to emphasize the dignity of the figure: a magnificent bust, a thin waist, rounded hips.

The hourglass silhouette was a complete contrast to the straight, broad-shouldered silhouette that was fashionable in the 40s. At first, the public was shocked, because it took about 40-50 meters of fabric to sew one dress from Dior. This was considered an exorbitant waste, an impermissible luxury after the ascetic minimalism of the war years. But Christian Dior insisted that femininity and grace should return to fashion.

In the early 50s, the sun-flared skirt was especially popular. A little later, a sexy and more practical pencil skirt came into fashion.

An obligatory element of a woman's wardrobe was a corset, which tightens the waist up to 50 cm. At the same time, skirts were generally fluffy, multi-layered.

Of the accessories, small pill hats, multiple jewelry, sunglasses, various handbags, scarves were relevant.

60s

The fashion of the 60s brought great changes to society. If initially the image of a luxurious mature woman was cultivated, now fashion has purposefully taken a course towards youth. French designers have faded into the background. British fashion designers became popular, who came up with the image of the London dandies.

Geometry of cut, bright saturated colors, psychedelic patterns, fabrics with lurex, glitter, polyester, nylon - all this characterized the clothes of the 60s.

At the same time, the hippie style became popular with the image of the London dandy. The clothes were distinguished by their simplicity of form - flared trousers, mini-dresses, mini-skirts. But much attention was paid to accessories and footwear: high suede boots with fringes, huge plastic glasses, voluminous jewelry, wide belts.

Another innovation was the unisex style. Many girls parted with their long hair without regret, having made a haircut "like a boy". The unisex icon was the famous Twiggy model. Legendary group "The Beatles" can be called striking representatives of men's fashion in the 60s.

70s

In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, we can say that it was in those years that people had more means of expressing themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction, everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time there were a-line skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-shaped dresses, and shirt dresses.

In addition, it should be noted that the clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe has appeared, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other.

In terms of footwear, platform shoes have become popular.

Of the designers in the 70s, Sonya Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonya Rykiel created comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses from woolen knitwear and mohair.

Also popular was Giorgio Armani, who suggested combining fashionable jeans with tweed jackets in one ensemble.

In the late 70s, the designer Claude Montana gained recognition, creating military-style clothes with a fitted silhouette and, at the same time, a wide shoulder line.

80s

The 1980s style was associated with the expression "too much", too much: too provocative, too bright, too provocative. Outright sexuality in outfits has come into vogue. It was demonstrated at the expense of tight-fitting clothes, mini-skirts, leggings (now called leggings), open neckline, shiny fabrics. Large gold-like jewelry was also held in high esteem.

Haute couture was distinguished by rich embroidery and decor; disco and punk reigned in democratic fashion.

The main silhouette of clothing in the 80s is an inverted triangle. Emphasis was placed on broad shoulders, a raglan sleeve or a "bat", trousers with a high belt narrowed to the bottom (the so-called "bananas").

Stretch jeans and boiled jeans appeared in fashion. Mini-skirts, windbreaker jackets made of raincoat fabric, T-shirts with inscriptions, leather jackets, elements of sportswear were also relevant.

Business women wore suits in the style of Chanel and Margaret Thatcher. Basically, these were wide double-breasted jackets combined with a mini-skirt or trousers, and straight-cut jackets decorated with piping.

In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decor elements were successful: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The positions of Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Issei Miyake, Kenzo, who in their collections focused on deconstructivism, played with geometric shapes and colors, also consolidated their positions.

90s

In the 1990s, the entire world was under the influence of the economic crisis. Many youth subcultures have emerged, whose slogan was a departure from standards and rejection of imposed morality. It was then that such a style direction as grunge arose. Things that have a worn out look, specially aged are becoming actual. Layering, negligence, hippie and ethnic elements are welcome.

A little later, clothes made of synthetic materials, bright neon colors, came into fashion. It was usually worn by representatives of the neo-punk subculture.

In the mid-90s, glamor returned, from the pages of glossy magazines there was propaganda of luxury, shiny materials (brocade, satin, silk), furs, jewelry.

In the late 90s, many designers gave a second wind to retro style, using elements of historical costumes in their collections.

In the 90s, the world recognized the now cult supermodel Kate Moss, who was the founder of a new style direction - heroin chic.

Nothing is so connected with a person's life, with the peculiarities of his life and culture, as a suit. Having emerged as a means of protecting a person from the influences of the external environment, throughout the history of human society, it has reflected and reflects a change in aesthetic ideals and social taste.

Clothing satisfied not only the utilitarian needs of a person, but also purely aesthetic needs. She shaped the appearance of people, indirectly reflecting their inner qualities: character, habits and, of course, artistic taste. When did fashion actually begin? Naturally, much later than the appearance of a stable national costume. Of course, he also changed, but these changes were so slow that he had nothing to do with our fast-moving fashion, and most importantly, these changes were spontaneous, and the only thing that caused them was the emergence of new materials.

Many Soviet art historians, including E. Wende, believe that fashion was born in the 12th-13th centuries with the development of international relations and the intensification of trade exchange, when elements began to appear in clothing, the use of which cannot be explained by the need or the development of aesthetic taste: for example, a one-meter-high hat, fathom trains, super-narrow men's trousers, in which it was impossible to sit down, or bent toes of shoes tied with cords and chains.

Some Western scholars call a later date, defining fashion as one of the phenomena of neo-mania (mania of novelty) that arose in our civilization with the emergence of capitalism.

It is difficult to say who is right in this dispute. What is important is that almost until the end of the 19th century, the circle of people involved in the orbit of fashion was extremely small. Not everyone could afford to enjoy its fruits and respond to her suggestions.

The costume of a slave, farmer, artisan was always simple to the point of primitiveness. Until the 13th century, it was most often a loincloth or a long, knee-length shirt. But the clothes of the nobility abounded with such "finds" of tailors, such extraordinary details that if we take as a basis one of the comic signs of fashion - ignoring the basic requirements for clothes - medieval dressmakers achieved colossal successes, and the authority of the styles, was incredibly high. True, it should be noted that he was supported by such serious arguments as the army, court and church, since the trendsetters at that time were most often the royal courts.

For example, in the 16th century, the Spanish court introduced the fashion for short puff pants. To give them more roundness, the pants were stuffed with horsehair or tow. A cover made of expensive fabric was put on top. How “comfortable” it was in these pants in hot weather is not worth explaining.

At the court of Louis XIV, it was customary to wear hats in the hand. Because of his introduction to the fashion of huge wigs, the hat has become a completely useless attribute of the costume. But at the Burgundian court in the 15th century, dandies wore two hats. One on the head, the second on a strap behind the back. The history of fashion knows a lot of such casual attire, although I consider the skirts offered to men by the Dutch ambassador in Paris Reinggrave van Salm to be the pinnacle of all. Despite the absurdity of this skirt, which was worn over pants, the fashion for it lasted almost forty years.

In any case, each new fashionable proposal worked for only one goal - to emphasize the privileged position of the nobility and its rejection of labor in any form.

You don't have to go far for examples. Let us recall, for example, the boyar ferryaz - a special type of caftan made of expensive fabric. They sewed it on a lining, sometimes on fur. Feriaz was wide at the hem, up to three meters, with long sleeves hanging down to the ground. They put it on in the following way: only one hand was threaded into the sleeve, collecting it in many assemblies, while the other sleeve was lowered to the ground. Thanks to this caftan, the expression “to work carelessly” appeared.

Over the centuries, hundreds and thousands of tailors and artists have invented completely unusual styles designed to emphasize the place that the feudal lord occupied in the hierarchical ladder. As early as the 13th century, the first laws against luxury were issued, limiting the splendor of the clothes of the vassals in comparison with the overlords. At the same time, laws on rank in clothing appeared, prescribing strict restrictions on the choice of fabrics and the shape of a suit for various classes of society. For example, burghers, unlike nobles, did not have the right to wear silk clothes, long trains, etc. In a word, fashion was at the complete disposal of palaces, not streets.

The same situation developed in Russia. Noble nobles wore closed caftans with multi-colored embroidery, raincoats were sewn from expensive materials, which were fastened with a large gold or silver buckle with precious stones. They did not lag behind men and women. The sundresses that appeared in the women's wardrobe in the 14th century in wealthy families were sewn from oriental fabrics that Russia had just met - brocade, satin, taffeta. Kokoshniks and kichkas were decorated with pearls.

In principle, the same forms of clothing existed among other strata of the population with the only difference that the poor sewed it from canvas and sermyagi. The European costume introduced by Peter I somewhat supplanted the folk costume, but this affected only the wealthy strata of Russian society. The masses of the people remained, in spite of everything, faithful to the usual clothes, the traditions of which passed from century to century.

Perhaps, for the first time, the street dictated fashion to palaces during the Great French Revolution. After all, the appearance of men's pantaloons belongs to this period. During the revolution, pantaloons were a peculiar form of members of the Jacobin club (before that they were worn only by peasants and sailors). The Jacobins wore pantaloons to distinguish them from the aristocrats, who at that time wore short pants - culottes. 15-20 years passed (the pace of fashion was then somewhat slower), and the whole world recognized the convenience and functionality of trousers.

The French Revolution! The call for Freedom, Equality, Brotherhood sounded all over the world. Inspired by the example of the democrats of antiquity, trying to transfer to today not only the ideas of democracy, the severity of morals, but also aesthetic ideals, the Convention orders Jacques Louis David costumes for the citizens of the republic.Unfortunately, they turned out to be too theatrical from the artist and did not enter the life of Parisians. However, these ideas were not completely forgotten, and after a while antiquity again became popular.

During the Directory period, on the streets and boulevards of the French capital, one could meet people dressed in costumes of ancient heroes. Men wore a short, knee-length tunic, cloak and sandals. Of course, women could not keep up with them. The tunic has become the most popular clothing among them. By the way, women turned out to be more consistent, because with the onset of cold weather, men returned to their usual warm suit.

In general, it should be noted that this time was characterized by an unusual mixture of styles and trends: from the "victim's hairstyle" - it was worn by the relatives of those killed on the guillotine - to the "dog's ears" hairstyle, which consisted of a mass of long, unevenly cut hair that covered a large part of the face.

After 1789, the bourgeoisie took over from the aristocracy the baton of Parisian elegance. The expansion of the clientele immediately caused an increase in the workshop of tailors-couturiers, who gradually managed to seize power over the minds of Parisians and Parisians. If before the tailors only fulfilled the orders of their customers, now they risked imposing their proposals on them, which were more likely to obey the moral requirements of the time than the true purpose of clothing. Class elegance - the embodiment of futility and artificiality - reigned until the turn of this century.

With the expansion of the circle of consumers, there is a need for specialized clothing: for work, leisure, holidays, sports, travel. A new concept of clothing emerged, giving women freedom of choice. Fashion fully satisfied the demand, and although at times it went in a roundabout way, it still moved forward and forward.

But then an English costume appeared on the scene - one of the revolutionary innovations of that time. The insular position of England, the colonialist style of the era itself, frequent travel, the way of life of the bourgeoisie in power, playing sports - all this required a new, comfortable, practical suit. England was much more democratic than neighboring France, and most importantly, the representatives of its ruling class were much more practical. Even the nobles were busy making money.

Fashion in England in the 18th century developed very vigorously. It should be noted that initially the English style was adopted in France with hostility. Readingot was declared a fellow traveler of licentious morals. But, despite all the controversy surrounding the proposals of English tailors, after a while the French distrust of British fashion was replaced by complete Anglomania. French cognac began to be replaced with Scotch whiskey, Parisian convertibles were replaced by London carriages. It has become fashionable to walk the streets not with poodles, but with bulldogs. The French even stopped grazing, and, finally, all of Paris dressed in redingots.

English fashion was mastered so rapidly and so unconditionally that a foreigner, who considered Paris as a trendsetter, quite naturally thought that all these new phenomena were inventions of the windy French.

Nineteenth century. Powerful technological progress, changes in the social composition of society, a sharp increase in the population of cities create conditions for the completion of the process of forming a single European urban costume. It is losing more and more features of local and national originality. The development of fashion is very intensive, but it affects mainly women's clothing.

Many at that time were literally shocked by such a frequent, in their opinion, change in tastes. For example, the Russian magazine Library of Theater and Art wrote:

“Only one thing in the 19th century does not occur particularly often: that some fashion, whether in painting or at home, in clothes or mood, would forget all other fashions and would capture everyone for a long time. Now are the times of eclecticism. Fashion comes and goes. And until the very end of this century, unbridled joy reigns over something of its own, due to the lack of traditions (of course, only seemingly), everything unfashionable, everything historical, is tyrannically driven into the very back closet of the house or the brain apparatus, and the unstable tribe of the transitional era is constantly rushing about between baroque and zapfstyl, between idealism and romanticism, between Frenchmania, Hellenism and Anglomania. Is this colorful fashion destined to continue in the future, and another new one will join the old fashion - the fashion of the present, the style of youth? Everything viable is becoming fashion, and this can be consolation for the time being; only that which does not carry any germ of strength, does not attract followers, does not break through. "

At the same time, such a bacchanalia in women's fashion, it seemed, did not affect the costume of the "strong half" of humanity at all. On the contrary, he became more and more stable and became conservative. Men resolutely refused variegation and ornaments.

It was in the 19th century that a practical everyday jacket appeared, very similar to the present one. Since then, changing only the name, it has remained a staple of men's clothing. Little by little, the vest is becoming less and less colorful and bright, and the only colorful spot is the tie.

The color scheme was also very poor, muted and consisted of black, gray, brown and blue tones. Simplicity and unpretentiousness have become the basic principles of men's clothing.

The beginning of the 20th century brought about the emergence of the Art Nouveau style. Extravagant clothes made of velvet, taffeta, chiffon came into fashion. Again, women are styling their hair into tall hairstyles. Huge hats, lavishly decorated with ostrich feathers, artificial flowers and stuffed birds. Boa made of swan down. Luxurious stoles and chiffon scarves that cover bare shoulders.

The era of decadence brought with it new, sophisticated forms, sophistication and sophistication, pretentiousness and deliberate disregard for the worries and worries of its time.

One of the researchers of fashion V. Fred in his work "The Psychology of Fashion" in 1907 described the ideals prevailing in bourgeois society: "... Not even two years later, in Germany and Austria they first started talking about the Pre-Raphaelites; Several people here and there in poetry and painting have created for themselves the ideal of a gentle, untouched, flower-like woman. With love and penetration, an image was created from these aspirations, the opposite of a woman by vocation and a woman-mother. Painful features "were already intended in advance for such a fragile, wonderful beauty, albeit timid, pale and sterile; the sweet scent of the rarest flowers, like languid orchids, long draped clothes, a quiet voice, an unknown sadness before the coming misfortune, a vague sense of duty, renunciation of the world, - here are the elements of this beauty. "

With the war, the Art Nouveau style goes out of fashion. It is replaced by simplicity of clothes, short hairstyles. Pants for women are firmly in vogue. This was due to the fact that during the war years, many women had to do dirty, hard work, which was transferred to them after millions of men went to the front. Women drove trams, worked at machines in factories and factories, worked as electricians, and collected bread. Work clothes were not seen as part of fashion. On the contrary, she was more of an “anti-fashion” in the sense of her anti-aesthetic, uniform. Nevertheless, trousers entered the fashion vocabulary, as well as individual elements of military uniforms.

After the war, women became more self-confident, more independent. Many of them no longer wanted to be housewives, cooks, nurses, or dressmakers. As a result of years of rationing food, they have become leaner and fitter. In the post-war period, sportswear became popular, in which it was easier to live and work. Business, casual fashion became the main direction of the development of the suit for the next decade.

Analyzing the development of "costume during this period, art critic N. Kaminskaya writes:" A new type of female beauty - a woman-boy, thin, long-legged, flat-chested, with narrow hips, without an accentuated waist, with a boyish haircut. This is no longer a defenseless, weak creature , guarded by a man. In her appearance - determination, adaptation to the conditions of work and life. However, there is a special femininity in him: beautiful, smooth skin, brightly painted lips, thinly drawn eyes and eyebrows "...

A new stage in the history of fashion began after the Great October Socialist Revolution. In the difficult times of revolutionary transformations, of course, the question of the problems of clothing as a special art was not raised. The people and the country faced many important and urgent tasks. But the history of Soviet modeling and clothing dates back to the October days of 1917.

The revolution, changing the inner content of life, affected its external forms, in particular, and on clothing. The victorious class - the proletariat - brought a qualitatively different attitude to the world of things. Citizens of the workers 'and peasants' state, people of emancipated labor, needed a suit that was in tune with the ideals of the epoch that had come.

As T. Strizhenova notes in her book From the History of Soviet Costume, “The Great October Socialist Revolution for the first time in world history erased the social differentiation of costume. A new concept has emerged - a mass suit for workers. Differences in the nature of clothing are no longer associated with social issues, but with living and working conditions (town and country), climate (regions of the north, south, Far East), cultural and national traditions of the peoples that make up the Soviet state. " The beginning was extremely difficult. To the difficulties of the post-war devastation were added intervention, counter-revolution, famine, epidemics. And nevertheless, even in this tense time, many were already thinking about how the person of the new society would be dressed.

In 1919, in a country with a population of millions, there were only ten sewing associations, most of which worked for the army. Naturally, these small factories could not cope with the demands of the domestic market. There was a shortage of fabrics, textile enterprises mainly produced linen, canvas, soldier's cloth, low grades of wool, bikes, garus, calico and chintz.

The equipment was also bad. The bulk was made up of antediluvian machines with hand and foot drives. There were not enough personnel. Among the seamstresses there were many people who had not previously had anything to do with the production of clothes. There was no experience in working on a costume for the masses, such as, for example, what was in Western countries. Before the revolution, the entire Russian garment industry consisted practically of ateliers and handicraft workshops.

This was the starting point from which Soviet modeling had to start. And yet, despite these difficulties, the task of creating a domestic garment industry was put on the agenda. Two years after the revolution, the Central Institute of the Garment Industry was organized. The memo said about him: “The transition to socialist construction of production puts forward the need to liquidate small-scale workshops and create large factories of factory production with the best technical and sanitary-hygienic equipment on the basis of the lowest labor energy consumption and neutralization of harmful production conditions, on the one hand, and the establishment of new forms of clothing in relation to hygiene, convenience, beauty and grace - on the other. "

In 1922, the first in the country House of Models was founded in Moscow - "Atelier of Fashion", originally called "The Center for the Formation of a New Soviet Costume". Among its creators were Olga Senicheva-Kashchenko - the first director of the Fashion Atelier, Vera Mukhina - the future famous sculptor, Ekaterina Pribylskaya, who later became a major specialist in the field of applied arts, easel painter and theater decorator Alexandra Exter, famous painters B. Kustodiev, I. Grabar, K. Petrov-Vodkin.

A special place in the history of Soviet modeling is rightfully assigned to Nadezhda Petrovna Lamanova. In the past, the dressmaker of the empress, Lamanova, whose fame crossed the borders of Russia, without a moment's hesitation, immediately accepted the revolution, devoting all her talent, all her experience, all her strength to the service of the people.

With her works, she paved the way for the creation of a domestic, socialist school. Her articles and statements became the first theoretical substantiation of the principles of this school. Lamanova's formula "What is the suit intended for - its purpose, what the suit is made of - its material, for whom it is made - the figure and how it is made - what is its shape" was fundamental for many Soviet designers.

One of the tasks of the Modern Costume Art Workshop, headed by Lamanova, was to create simple and functional clothing for workers. Nadezhda Lamanova demanded simplification, but not primitivization. She was practically the first fashion designer to appeal to such a wide audience. Not a single artist in the world has ever worked for such a customer. To make the clothes of the people interesting, varied, beautiful and at the same time practical and comfortable - no one has set such a goal before.

For the first time in history, fashion designers turned to the broad masses, hundreds of workers and peasants, citizens of the new world, became customers, consumers of model houses. We can safely say that the current school of Soviet modeling is a natural continuer of the traditions laid down in the 1920s by Lamanova and her associates.

Blogger Donna Julietta writes: “Today I looked through various retro photographs that capture the history of people's lives and then thought it would be nice to see photographs that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how interestingly fashionistas dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review related to fashion by decades. I will make a reservation right away that I will not cite as an example women who were popular at a certain time, it is better to pay special attention to them. Let's just talk about fashion. "

(43 photos total)

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Source: Journal / make-your-style

Let's start from the 10s of the XX century.

1. Corsets held back women for years, made their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and life was harder. The inability to inhale and exhale once again, constant diseases due to too tightly tightened "shells" - all this made the corset, although a significant item of the era, but very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally breathed out - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses became fashionable - that is why the tenth years were remembered as the years of "liberation" of women from the oppression of one of the most uncomfortable items of dress, and Paul Poiret became a real deliverer for ladies of high society.

2. In the tenths, Russian chic was in vogue - the “Russian Seasons”, which were brought to Paris by the famous Sergei Diaghilev, were in vogue. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could adopt the art of high fashion among Parisians.

3. It was then that all the familiar to us nowadays attributes of "chic life" in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.

Smoothly moving to the fashion of the 20s

4. During this period, sports, male-type sports figures entered fashion with confident steps, and female forms began to gradually lose their relevance and popularity. The ideal is a slender lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called the reformer and revolutionary of the fashion of this period. Along with her in these times, fashionable clothes were created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionne, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille ", the house of fur fashion" Jacques Heim "and others.

5. Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 1920s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of jewelry, embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called "Art Deco", and came from the name of the exhibition of modern decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

6. It was the style of embellishment and embellishment. Decor elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

7. Shoes, decorated with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. Art Deco is an eclectic style, in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with geometric forms of cubism; unconventional inexpensive and simple materials are mixed with expensive traditional materials of good quality.

8. Such a combination of incompatible, mixed in one style.

9. As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:

- the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
- fashionable coat with a straight cut tapering to the bottom and with a fur collar;
- Pajama pants and pajamas, in which they went to the beach at that time, are in fashion;
- the first swimwear for women appeared - a revolution in beachwear;
- clothes were sewn from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- sporty style is in fashion, not only trousers appear, but also shorts;
- the appearance of the classic little black Chanel dress;

30s fashion

10. In these times, tailoring became more complex. The quality of ready-to-wear, mass-produced, has improved markedly. Hollywood is the trendsetter in the United States. But even here firms began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These firms distributed new fashionable models in millions of copies.

11. Long skirts became the standard of fashion in the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to offer long dresses and skirts, the waistline of which was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses extended their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached the middle of the calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends have lengthened their clothes on their own. They sewed on wedges and various frills.

12. A very popular garment of the 30s was the women's streetwear, which existed in a wide variety of versions. Outerwear - coats and jackets were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

13. Each type of clothing, including a suit, was characterized by a wide variety of shapes and finishes. The cut of the suits became more complicated, began to rely on geometry, which gives the silhouette clarity.

14. Decorative details and adornments were widely used in the costume. Hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in the same color scheme. Accessories were chosen very strictly. As a rule, they were black or brown, and in summer they were white.

15. Accessories selected in this way easily fit any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years, except for a hat or a handbag, could not afford anything else.

40s fashion

16. The dominant fashion trend in the early 40s was multi-layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of vertical stripes, lantern sleeves. It is worth noting that at the time, striped clothing was the most popular. The war broke out and the world went into a militarized state, so the fashion of the 40s underwent significant changes. Women have no time to think about makeup and replenishment of their wardrobe.

17. During this period, the appearance of outfits was greatly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics are no longer used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

18. Floral designs are returning to fashion: ornaments, small flowers have become the main decoration of fabric and dresses made from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to take root in fashion. The discovery of the war period was the popular and nowadays style of "military"

19. At the same time, a new model of footwear was released: shoes with stiletto heels.

20. Another innovation was the production of turtleneck sweaters, these models with a high collar under the throat deservedly received the recognition of fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

22. In the post-war years, social differences sharpened markedly. Wives have again become a symbol of their spouses' well-being, as a kind of showcase for those around them. Visiting a hairdressing salon and applying makeup has become a mandatory ritual for every woman. An ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully equipped in the early morning: with the perfect hairdo, heels and makeup, stand by the stove or vacuum the carpet.

23. Even in the Soviet Union, in which the way of life was significantly different from that of the West, it was customary to do hair styling in a hairdresser or perm at least once a week, which also began to come into fashion with particular impetuosity.

24. The '50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, extended shoulder silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, special requirements were imposed on the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

25. To meet these standards, women wore tight corsets, tucked cloth or cotton wool into their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of the beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Clara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

26. Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. A fashionable and stylish woman of the 1950s style resembled a flower in silhouette: a fluffy floor-length skirt, under which they put on a multilayer petticoat, high heels with stiletto heels, nylon stockings with a seam. Stockings are a must-have accessory to complete the look and are extremely expensive. But women did not go to any lengths to look attractive and feel like beauties following fashion trends. It was problematic to buy fabrics at that time, they were released into one hands no more than a certain amount, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt under the "new silhouette", it took from nine to forty meters of material!

60s fashion

The legendary 60s were the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. A new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. 1959 saw the release of the French film Babette Goes to War with Brigitte Bardot in the title role. A casually whipped hairstyle with a pile, despite the fact that it takes a lot of time for fashionistas to create it, is becoming super popular.

27. Accessories became very popular: beads made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, macro glasses that covered the half of the face.

28. In London, the most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born - a miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, legendary Mary Quant showed the first collection of mini-length pieces. The new style, called "London style", very quickly conquered the youth of the whole world.

29. 60s - the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics are widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, as they do not wrinkle and are easy to wash, in addition, they are cheap.

30. Fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, jewelry. High women's boots with low heels, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go go, are becoming super popular. Boots became widespread with the emergence of the mini length fashion and the dance style of the same name.

Fashion from the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Young people opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, the hippies emphasized the denial of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately sloppy and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric bags over the shoulders. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair symbolizes freedom.

70s fashion

31. In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, we can say that it was in those years that people had more means of expressing themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction, everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

32. The motto of the 70s was the expression “Everything is possible!”. The couturiers presented several styles for the choice of progressive and active young people, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

33. Also in the wardrobe of women of fashion of that time were trapeze skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, dresses of the A-shaped silhouette, dress-shirts.

34. In addition, it should be noted that clothing has become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other, appeared. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

35. Of the designers in the 70s, Sonya Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonya Rykiel created comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses from woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

36. In the fashion of the 80s, retro images intertwined, reinterpreted by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance trends, the continuing boom of sports.

37. Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, break dance, snowboarding, skateboarding, roller skates, step aerobics - all these phenomena were reflected in the style of the decade.

38. The list of iconic items from a decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari style clothes, kimono, bat and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, worn denim, so-called dumplings, black leather jackets, lurex, massive jewelry, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of "wet hair", cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair of decorative flowers, such as "eggplant", highlighting "feathers". A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.

The massive 1980s can be described as excessive. Everything is, as it were, "too" - too narrow, too voluminous, too catchy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decor elements were successful: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

39. The style of the 90s in clothes, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to the choice of clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your own image is changing, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main appeal of the nineties is "to be who you are!" In those days, special attention was paid to denim clothing - only the lazy did not go in it. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called "denim", since every person had such a thing in more than one copy.

40. In the nineties, unisex fashion spread around the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

41. Nineties - the time of sneakers and flat shoes. This unisex style is very fond of large Italian and American companies such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. The costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when along with strict asceticism in the costume there is a deliberate theatricality with a bright gamut of colors. Fashion changes depending on the social orientation and territoriality, as in Europe, bohemians prefer conceptual designer clothes.

42. The main fashionable accent of the nineties is not on clothes, but on its owner. A fashionable look is created by a slim figure with tanned or milky-white skin. The culture of the body flourishes as in the days of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and women of fashion visit not only sports clubs, but also beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Runway supermodels become role models, with television and fashion magazines making a significant contribution to this.

43. Well then. This concludes my review. I would like to say that of all times, the 30s, 50s and 70s are closer to my preferences. In general, everything new is a long forgotten old.

Fashion at all times promoted the cult of the body, fashion trends were determined by public moods and events taking place in the life of society, changing the way of life of people. Many girls do not even realize that there is a lot in common between today's fashion trends and the fashion of the 1900s. Let's plunge into history and look at the fashion of the past century.

Fashion 1900

Women's fashion in the era of the 1900s changed along with progressive changes in society and global events such as the First and Second World War, the transition from a woman housewife to an independent woman, which was naturally reflected in fashion.

Today many people think: “the more I undress, the more success I will have”, in fact it is not. The more I hide everything that I have, the more interest I will arouse in a man. To make the illusion of the waist, chest and hips, not to show everything at once - this is what attracts a man. On a subconscious level, a man understands that you are not a slutty woman and that you can build a relationship with you.

The attitude towards nudity in the 1900s was completely different than today, women at this time wore long dresses and were strongly pulled by corsets so that their waist became like an hourglass. If today many actresses are ready to undress for filming in glossy magazines and most people consider this to be normal, then in the 1900s women did not allow themselves such acts and it was considered debauchery. The fashion of this time tried to emphasize the feminine nature, to show the man what he loves most, namely the contrast between the chest, waist and hips, but veiled. Even the makeup slightly emphasized the facial features and was almost invisible. The fashion of those years created a unique way of life and the models of this time correspond to the grace and fragility of the Art Nouveau period. A tightly drawn waist, open sleeves, a large hat, dresses made with a beautiful tren, trimmed with a long train - all this is now back in fashion. Rounded shapes were in vogue, a woman's fullness meant her health, if a girl was thin, it was considered that she was not healthy.

Russian ballet made a big revolution in the fashion of the 20th century. S.P. Diaghilev in 1909 brought Russian ballet to Paris at the Châtelet Theater. To gather a large audience, the dancers of his troupe wore bras instead of corsets, which were introduced in fashion in 1903, but became popular only after the days of Russian ballet in Paris, they had an open stomach and open arms. Diaghilev's troupe was also not thin, the ballet in those days was different from today.

In the First World War in 1914, fashion changed dramatically. The men go to the front. For the first time in human history, women are becoming lonely. All male duties fall on the shoulders of women, women go to work as sisters of mercy in the army, in trade, in factories and factories, being trained in male professions, which was the beginning of emancipation. In connection with this, the cult of female beauty is changing - rounded shapes are out of fashion. Since there were no such women left by the end of the war in 1918, the war brought stress, hunger and suffering, women had to work hard, wear work clothes that were previously worn only by men. The cult of magnificent ladies is leaving, because due to lack of food they are not left.

At the end of the war, designer Paul Poiret, famous in those days in France, changed his attitude to women's clothing, he completely excluded the corset from women's clothing. Clothes are kept around the neck, it becomes possible to bare the back. The back becomes the main subject of interest for men. The new silhouette resembles rather a board - it is straight, completely simplified, the haircut was made up of short hair, the style was called "la garçonne" - from French into Russian it can be translated as "girl-boy" or "kid". Women allow themselves even more - they dress up in transparent muslin dresses, embroidered with beads and bugles, which are often worn on a naked body. The woman's makeup became bright.

The length of the skirts is getting shorter. This led to the rise of sexuality, women felt more relaxed and free. An emphatically free lifestyle was fashionable in those days, women were given the right to vote.

1920s fashion

The beauty canon of a woman of the 20s - she has a short haircut with bangs, black eyelids, small lips, a flat chest, a short knee-length dress without emphasizing the waist, which is held on a strap around her neck and a cigarette, smoking was fashionable in those days.

And those women who discovered the world of male power and male professions: they did hard work in the rear, worked in factories and provided all possible assistance to the front fighters, these women entered sports independently in the 1920s, women's amateur football teams and hockey teams were created, women's boxing. Women begin to lose traits of femininity, they have a desire to show their strength.

In the 1920s, many women's clubs appeared. There are not enough men for everyone in the post-war years. A woman is forced to bear the burden of duties that men used to carry. And this is reflected in the fashion of the 20s. Women are gradually changing into men's clothes, pants and boots, short haircuts and a men's jacket.

Mixed beaches are allowed, previously there were sections for male and female beaches. The first mixed beach is the Floria beach in Constantinople. Women now spend more time on the beach to meet men. A tanned body is coming into vogue.

Fashion of the 30s is a setback. Lush forms and flowing lines that emphasize the grace of the female figure are returning to fashion, the sensual thirties came to replace the chaotic emancipated years. Long dresses are in fashion again, hiding everything that emancipated women showed. However, the makeup remained bright. Having received the same rights as a man, a woman realized that she did not have to become like a man and compete with him in brute strength, her role is to be fragile, sensual and vulnerable.

40s fashion

The fashion of the 40s was inspired by the Second World War. Especially during the war, there was a shortage of fabrics, many dresses were changed from old ones, platform shoes were in fashion, women lost the opportunity to take care of their hair, so the main accessory of a woman was a turban, long hair was combed up and hidden in turbans, thus women wore high hairstyles. Wide shoulders in women's clothing. Military style and dark practical shades are in fashion: dark brown, burgundy. Bags were often square in the form of a bandolier, python and crocodile leather is in vogue, because all other types of leather are used for soldiers' uniforms. The zipper in the back became popular and was on almost all women's dresses.

After the end of the Second World War, a sporty and fit female body, large forms and an accentuated waist, a cult of sports and women's activism are in vogue. This is due to the fact that women took an active part in labor activities in the post-war years.

50s fashion

In the 1950s, corsets that accentuated the wasp waist of a woman again came into fashion, just like in the 1900s, the only differences were in the openness of modern outfits, since some of them had a wide neckline. The fashion of the 50s copies almost everything from the fashion of the early twentieth century. Plaid tight-fitting trousers, plaid jackets and dresses, and polka dot dresses are in vogue. Women's shoulders become narrow again. The main feature is slimness and grace, round hats and pointed shoes - all this emphasizes the independent image of a woman.

60s fashion

In the 1960s, petite women were in vogue. The sexual revolution gave rise to special looks - doll faces, thinness, loose straight hair, short loose haircuts, little dresses or daring miniskirts. Space flights are reflected in fashion, in the form of unusual outfits of girls, which are not widely spread among the masses. The hippie movement in 1968 makes its own changes in fashion, so the unisex style appears, shirts and trousers of a man's cut, from men, women are distinguished only by a slim figure, high boots and long hair, stripes and stickers "love" and "peace".

70s fashion

The 1970s saw several styles: the increasingly popular hippie style, as well as punk, glam rock, unisex and bohemian styles. Flared trousers, flowing fabrics, clothes with bright prints and fringes are in fashion. Among hippies, light summer dresses in bright colors are most popular in combination with a denim jacket or denim vest, hippies preferred sandals or light boots from shoes. Their arms and neck were decorated with beads made of natural materials and baubles. The hippie style is an American style, it was considered folkloric and took its inspiration from the Indian tribes. The bohemian style was represented by dresses and sundresses using chiffon. Bohemian style emphasized romance and femininity using wide sleeves, pleats and lace embroidery in the images of women.

80s fashion

The 1980s are the years when several styles predominated:

youth hip-hop - street style,
sports style - aerobics and fitness (became fashionable and gained popularity),
aggressive sexuality - this style of a woman passed from television screens and was embodied in life.

The concept of the beauty of the female body is changing - slender, athletic girls are in fashion. The film industry has had a significant impact on women. It became fashionable what the main characters of the films wore, but mostly they were fashion brands from Versace, Valentino, Emanuel Ungaro, Cerutti, Chanel, Christian Lacroix. The women tried to be like the main characters of the blue screen and bought clothes of famous brands with great desire.

In the eighties, women prove to society that they are capable of doing business no worse than men. They do business, create financial corporations, or hold key positions in many millions of companies - this is how the concept of a business woman appears. The image of a business woman is a strict and graceful style of a business woman: fitted dresses, trouser suits, blazers and jackets with wide shoulders, evening dresses.

90s fashion

In the 1990s, grunge and hip-hop styles are most popular among teenage girls, as in the world of youth music, stars showcase the street style of hip-hop. Another reason for the popularity of the style is the convenience in everyday life of this clothing: jeans, T-shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, you could wear comfortable sneakers and boots from shoes.

Thanks to the group "Nirvana" in the nineties, the grunge style became popular, the group had a huge success among young people and teenagers wanted to be like Kurt Cobain. Young girls wore sweaters two sizes up and baggy jeans, showing their indifference to fashion. A characteristic feature of the style is casual dress. The adherents of the style wore: shirts with outstretched elbows, ripped jeans, T-shirts, leather jackets, sneakers and heavy boots. Grunge with its features vaguely resembled the hippie era, but was devoid of the lightness of that style.

In the nineties, after the collapse of the USSR, clothes came to Russia from Western Europe, as well as Turkey and China. Many clothing markets offered clothing of varying quality at reasonable prices. Everything that was fashionable in the West after the fall of the Iron Curtain was happily accepted in Russia along with Western films and consumer goods.

2000 fashion

The year two thousand has come. Frank outfits have come into fashion, apparently due to the lack of materials and the depletion of the planet's resources, all clothes are becoming shorter in exactly two. In fashion: short tops, mini-skirts, open sleeves and deep neckline, minimalism in clothes, and it doesn't matter if the girl has a slender body or she has curvy shapes. Of course, the priority is for girls who devote time to fitness.

Short cocktail dresses are replacing long evening dresses and at the same time a clutch is replacing a handbag.

Among teenagers, denim is in vogue, which has changed a lot since the days of hip-hop in the nineties. Denim style has changed, it has become brighter and more feminine - skinny jeans, jeans with a low waist, with holes in the knees, decorated with a pattern of rhinestones, fitted denim jackets and jackets. This style of clothing is not at all similar to what teenage girls wore in the nineties.

In conclusion of the article, I would like to note:

Beauty is a unique aesthetic representation. As soon as beauty becomes replicated, it ceases to be beauty and often becomes vulgar. Therefore, fashion is always an effort on yourself, and as soon as you dress comfortably and comfortably (as hundreds of thousands of other women do), you already become not fashionable, but replicated. Therefore, always in any era, beauty requires sacrifice and suffering from a woman, suffering in heels, from diet, from false eyelashes. Beauty is effort.

Usually, fashion changes dramatically every ten years, minor changes occur every six months. Fashion can only be seen through the prism of the past, no one could ever foresee fashion, we can only assume. Fashion depends on global changes in the world, on events that make people look at things differently and change their lifestyle, and accordingly update their fashionable wardrobe. Fashion helped people find themselves, fashion is a lever with which a woman achieved self-expression.

In order to guess the couturier's allusions at a glance at the silhouette and cut, it is worth understanding the history of fashion of the last century. ELLE has compiled a short "cheat sheet" on fashion eras, which will not allow you to be mistaken.

Belle Epoque (translated from French - "beautiful era") with the characteristic hourglass silhouette is replaced by Art Deco. The new canon of beauty - natural, unrestricted forms of the female body. Europe is dressing up in exotic outfits, inspired by the ballet Scheherazade, presented by Diaghilev as part of the Russian Seasons in Paris.

Fashion designer: Paul Poiret is a fashion reformer, it was he who freed women from corsets and bustles, offering loose tunic dresses in the ancient Greek style, as well as capes, montoes and harem pants inspired by the East. Poiret introduced exotic and orientalism into fashion, cultivating luxury and abundance in clothes: expensive fabrics and a lot of decor are the hallmarks of his creations.

Styles: a dress with a high waist, a skirt narrowed to the bottom, a skirt-trousers, harem pants, a kimono cape, a sari dress, a turban, a pouch bag.

Fabrics and decor: brocade, silk, velvet, taffeta, oriental ornaments, gold thread embroidery, precious stones, batik.

Style icons: Isadora Duncan made Poiret's loose tunic dress famous all over the world, appearing in a translucent outfit on stage - an unheard-of audacity. Another fashionable icon of the era - Ida Rubinstein, the star of the "Scheherazade" ballet - did not leave the image of an oriental beauty even outside the stage, choosing silk kimonos for every day.

An emancipated woman drives a car, writes novels, smokes, and dances the Charleston dashingly in a comfortable straight dress with a low waist - a symbol of the era. Coco Chanel's discreet elegance is juxtaposed with the excesses of the "jazz era": feathers, boas and fringes. The garcon style (translated from French - "boy") got along with art deco, which is still popular.

Fashion designer: Coco Chanel dressed women in men's clothes and proved that a little black dress, complemented by a string of pearls, is an evening version no worse than a beaded dress. Jeanne Lanvin was responsible for a more feminine fashion direction.

Styles: cylindrical dress, fur monto, jacket, cardigan, loose canvas pants, beach pajamas, cloche hat, headbands and hair bands with abundant decor.

Fabrics and decor: lace, silk, velvet, wool, boucle, jersey; basic colors - black, white, gray, cream, beige; pearl jewelry, a minimum of decor - at Chanel, a maximum - at the rest (embroidery, feathers, bows, bugles).

Style icons: Silent film actress and dancer Louise Brooks became famous not only for her freedom of morals, but also for her love of cloche hats. Tennis player Susanne Lengle introduced the fashion for sportswear for women.

The new era decisively abandons the androgynous style of the dress, which hides the sensual curves. Fashion designers proclaim a different silhouette - an accentuated waist, from which a flowing long skirt extends. Following the athletes, the girls begin to wear jersey. The luxurious decor of the past decade has been forgotten - the Great Depression and the feeling of an imminent war set completely different moods.

Fashion designer: Elsa Schiaparelli invents a dress-sweater, a jumper with a print, for the first time uses viscose and a zipper. She is the first provocateur and surrealist from fashion. What is even a dress with a lobster and parsley or a hat in the shape of a shoe!

Styles: a floor-length dress with an accentuated waistline, a sweater dress, a jumper, pleated tennis skirts, polo dresses, sweatpants, silk gloves to the elbow, trains, the first bathing suits.

Fabrics and decor: tulle, silk, velvet, wool, knitwear; noble saturated and pastel colors - dark blue, burgundy, pearl; lace trim.

Style icons: Women of cold beauty, Hollywood stars - Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, alluring from the screens with perfection and sophistication.

The war breaks out, and the girls are forced to abandon luxurious elaborate outfits. Clothes in the military style appeared - women's things, sewn from the same fabrics as the uniform of the military. While fashion in Europe is constrained by the limitations of World War II, the United States creates its own "haute couture".

Fashion designer: The main "trendsetter" of the decade is the shortage of fabrics, buttons, decorative elements. It is he who determines the innovations in the women's wardrobe: shortens the length of the skirt, prohibits fluffy frills due to the high consumption of fabric, deprives of stockings and stilettos, and girls have to wear hats and scarves to hide untidy hair.

Styles: a fitted jacket with false shoulders, a double-breasted coat, a pencil skirt, a blouse with lantern sleeves, a shirt-cut dress with an emphasis on the waist, a dress in a nautical style, a hat with a veil, a belt, brooches, beads.

Fabrics: dark green, khaki, brown, gray, dark gray, black, blue, white, light yellow, red; wool, cotton, flannel; cage, polka-dot print.

Style icons: America's sex symbol, Hollywood actress Rita Hayworth and pin-up models Betty Grable and Betty Page. Images of beauties were so fond of American soldiers that they repeated them even on airplanes.

Paris is returning the title of fashion capital. New look - Christian Dior's new look for women is gaining popularity. During the war years, everyone was too tired of hardships! Girls strive to look as feminine as possible and spend a lot of time and money on toilets.

Fashion designers: Christian Dior lavishly spends yards of fabric on one high-waisted full skirt (outrageous and delightful luxury!) And again tightens women into corsets. Cristobal Balenciaga takes a different path and prefers a straight silhouette and architectural experiments with Dior's "buds" and "hourglass". Coco Chanel returns to the world of fashion and presents a tweed jacket with a skirt, and Hubert Givenchy creates elegant, aristocratic outfits for his muse Audrey Hepburn.

Styles: a bustier dress to the floor, a flared pleated skirt, a short narrow jacket at the waist, an A-line coat with three-quarter sleeves, gloves, a small hat, a clutch bag, pointed toe shoes, pearls, necklaces.

Fabrics and decor: velor, flannel, wool, silk, satin, suede; embroidered flowers, lace, small floral patterns, horizontal stripes.

Style icons: Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn dictate fashion from the screens, showcasing the latest models of the most popular designers.

Freedom of morals is the fashionable anthem of the era! A mini-skirt, jeans, a trouser suit, a-line dresses and an A-line coat appear in the women's wardrobe. Fashion designers, following contemporary artists, experiment with might and main and create clothes from vinyl and synthetic materials.

Fashion designers: British designer Mary Quant gave the world a mini skirt. André Courrez and Yves Saint Laurent almost simultaneously presented a short trapeze dress, which became an absolute hit. In addition to Haute Couture, couturiers are starting to create pret-a-porter collections.

Styles: miniskirt, high-waisted trousers, jeans, a-line dress, coat with a round collar, peasant-style shirt, sundress, knee-high boots, bag with a long strap, wide-brimmed hats.

Fabrics and decor: cotton, denim, knitwear, wool, viscose, stripes, checks, polka dots, small patterns; strings, bows, collars, lace trim.

Style icons: Brigitte Bardot made the sensual look ultra-trendy: her tousled brushed styling and bright black arrows were copied everywhere. Jacqueline Kennedy has reconciled trends and timeless classics in her stylish looks and has served as a model of elegance for thousands of women from all over the world.

The denim boom is sweeping the world: blue and blue, ripped and frayed denim are at the peak of their popularity. Following the growing movement, hippie couturiers are turning to folklore and ethnicity. Unisex style is gaining ground - men and women dress in the same, simple and comfortable clothes. Contemporary music dictates its dress code - this is how the disco style emerges. Shocking punk - the style of rebellious youth - was adopted by Vivienne Westwood. New fashion centers appear - for example, in the first Milan Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace and the Missoni family presented their collections.

Fashion designer: Yves Saint Laurent gave fashion a feminine tuxedo, sheer blouse, safari style, abstract prints, African motifs and much more. "Japanese in Paris" Kenzo Takada was an apologist for Asian sensuality and street style. Sonia Rykiel made a sweater dress from fine knitwear her trademark, and Oscar de la Renta opened a brand in New York.

Styles: turtlenecks, shirts, jeans, bell-bottomed trousers, sundresses, knitted sweaters, cardigans, hats, ponchos, canvas bags, baubles, overalls.

Fabrics and decor: linen, cotton, wool, silk, denim, bright colors, colorful ornaments, embroidery, oriental and floral patterns, beading.

Style icons: Jane Birkin shocked the audience with revealing outfits, for example, a mesh dress worn over a naked body. Model Lauren Hutton showed off how to dress in safari style in her daily life, while Jerry Hall was a disco fanatic and advised adding glamor to any outfit.

The business woman is the new ideal of the era. Designers come up with a whole wardrobe for an independent and successful woman. And then they go further, presenting defiantly sexy outfits that prove the power the so-called weaker sex has over men.

Fashion designer: Karl Lagerfeld becomes Chanel's Creative Director in 1983 and launches the House's first ready-to-wear line. Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo declare themselves a completely new trend in fashion - deconstructivism, which transforms and breaks the usual silhouettes of clothes.

Styles: classic trousers with arrows, jackets and tuxedos with overhead shoulders, sheath dresses, dresses and sweatshirts with bat sleeves, leather jackets and raincoats, leggings, bustier tops, mini and midi leather, platform shoes, boots.

Fabrics and decor: leather, mohair, velor, velveteen, suede, silk, satin, viscose; rich and neon shades, animal prints, vertical stripes.

Alexander McQueen and Jean-Paul Gaultier and supports their couture frenzy. The mass market is spreading all over the world, penetrating even into the USSR - already disintegrated, but still closed. Sports style, grunge and punk are relevant to young people around the world.

Fashion designers: Marc Jacobs showcases his grunge collection at Fashion Week on behalf of Perry Ellis. John Galliano shocks critics with his theatrical shows. Calvin Klein brings androgyny back into fashion.

Styles: T-shirts, pullovers, denim jackets, low-waisted jeans, denim skirts, sundresses with thin straps, hoodies and sweatshirts, sneakers and sneakers, rough boots.

Fabrics and decor: cotton, denim, leather, flannel, viscose, chiffon, all colors, prints with logos and names of famous companies.

Style icons: Supermodels Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss, who became not just faces of the era, but role models for millions.