Straight skirt short description. With cropped top. Leather pencil skirt
Burova Olga Vladimirovna, technology teacher
MBOU "Main comprehensive school No. 2",
Kemerovo region, city of Tashtagol
Theme: Straight Skirt Project
Introduction
Modern fashion does not dictate strict rules regarding styles and lengths of skirts. From a wide variety of proposals, you can always choose a model according to the figure, mood, style of the costume. Everyone wants to be dressed elegantly, beautifully and in fashion. But fashion, as you know, is very fickle. In this regard, following her trends, you often have to change your wardrobe.
However, the classic straight skirt stands alone in this row and, in fact, never goes out of style. At the same time, the process of its manufacture is simple and can become a good basis for improving the skills of beginner dressmakers.
But where can I get a new skirt so that it is not only fashionable, but also pleasing in every detail, fits well on the figure and is not very expensive? It is best to sew it yourself.
Our product must meet the requirements:
aesthetic
Hygienic
Operational
Convenience
To ensure normal
human life
Strength
the beauty
Hygroscopicity
Breathability
Thermal protection
Selection required material and tools
Here are the materials and tools that we needed in order to sew a straight skirt:
Needle; threads; sewing machine; the cloth; graph paper; scissors;
Soap (to transfer the drawing from graph paper to fabric).
Description of the skirt.
The skirt is straight two-seam with four darts along the waist line.
Fastening in the left side seam with a hidden zipper.
The upper section of the skirt is finished with a stitched belt, fastened with a loop with a button.
The length of the skirt is just below the knee.
The lower edge of the skirt is finished with a hem seam with an open overcast cut and secured with hand blind stitches.
Cutting Requirements
To begin with, I highly recommend viewing the cut of your choice in the light to determine hidden defects, for example, elongated threads, knots, and so on. If any artifacts are found, they can be bypassed when laying out the patterns.
Open the straight skirt.
Before proceeding with cutting, let's calculate the fabric consumption for a straight skirt.
Fabric consumption
Fabric consumption for a straight skirt is planned based on the calculation:
with a width of 140 cm - one skirt length plus 8-10 cm,
with a fabric width of 80-100 cm - two lengths plus 10-15 cm.
With a narrower width of the fabric, you need to take two lengths, and this is very irrational. Don't buy fabric rashly.
Measure the half-circumference of the hips (Q) plus the increase (Pb) plus 4-5 cm for two side seams, multiply all this by 2, add the width of the strip to the belt (8 cm) and compare the resulting figure with the width of the material.
For example, for my skirt there will be the following data: (48.5 + 1 + 5) * 2 = 109 cm, if there is a belt, add the width of the strip on the belt - 8 cm, 109 + 8 = 117 cm.
Building a drawing of the base of a straight skirt
Initial data
To build a drawing of the base of a straight skirt, the following measurements and additions are required:
St - waist half circumference;
Sat - semi-girth of the hips;
Dts - the length of the back to the waist;
or
Dtb - the distance from the waist to the hips (for low hips);
Dsp - the distance from the waist line to the floor in front;
Dsb - the distance from the waist line to the floor on the side;
Dsz - the distance from the waist line to the floor at the back;
Du - skirt length;
Fri - an increase in the half-circumference of the waist;
Pb - an increase in the semicircumference of the hips;
In addition, we find the level of the lower edge of the skirt. To do this, subtract the length of the Du skirt from the measurement Dsb. The resulting value is subtracted from the measurements of Dsp and Dsz, we obtain, respectively, the measurements of Dusp (length of the skirt in front) and Dusz (length of the skirt at the back).
Drawing base grid construction
The construction of the base drawing begins with the construction of the base grid.
The size of the base mesh corresponds to the dimensions of the side surface of the skirt from the middle back to the middle front line.
We build a right angle with the vertex at point T. Down from it, we lay off the length of the skirt behind Dusz vertically. We get point N.
Define the line of the hips. The hip line for a skirt is usually at the level of 18-20 cm down from the waist line, with a smaller value for small figures, a larger one for tall figures.
TB \u003d 0.5 * Dts - 2 or TB \u003d Dtb.
For figures with low hips, we use the Dtb measure.
We postpone the value of TB from the point T vertically down, set the point B.
Through points T and B to the right we draw horizontal lines - the waist line and the hip line, respectively.
The width of the skirt at the hips: BB1 = Sat + Pb. We postpone this segment horizontally to the right of point B.
The position of the sideline determines the segment BB2, which is laid horizontally to the right of point B:
BB2 \u003d (Sb + Pb) / 2 - 1.
The position of the back and front tucks is determined by the segments BB3 and B1 B4:
BB3 = 0.4 * BB2;
B1B4 = 0.4 * B1B2.
The segment BB3 is laid horizontally to the right of point B. The segment B1B4 is laid horizontally to the left of point B1.
Through points B3, B2, B4, B1, a vertical is drawn up to the intersection with the waist line at points T3, T2, T4 and T1.
The vertical lines continue down through points B1 and B2 until they intersect with the horizontal at points H1 and H2.
Calculation and construction of a drawing of the base
First of all, let's clarify the position of the waistline by determining the location of points T20 and T10.
From the point H2 vertically upwards, we set aside the measurement of Du. We put the point T20. From the point H1 vertically upwards, we postpone the measurement of Dusp. We put the point T10.
We connect the points T, T20, T10 with straight lines. This broken line is the refined waist line.
We extend upward the verticals of the back and front tucks until they intersect with the refined waist line at points T30 and T40.
We determine the total solution of tucks along the waist line.
∑ darts \u003d (Sat + Pb) - (St + Fri).
The direction of the tucks, their size and number depend on the physique and features of the figure of the customer. For typical figures It is customary to design three tucks: back, side and front.
In this construction, we will focus on a typical figure.
Side tuck placed on the sideline. AT general case the value of ∑ tucks is distributed as follows: rear tuck solution 0.35 ∑ tucks, front tuck solution 0.15 ∑ tucks, side tuck solution 0.5 ∑ tucks.
To build the sides of the tucks along the waist line from points T30, T40 and T20, set aside to the right and left half the solution of the back, front and side tucks, respectively. Dart length: back 15-17 cm, front 10-12 cm, side 17-20. If we are building a skirt with side seams, then the top of the side tuck should lie on the hip line and coincide with point B2. We lay off the length of the tucks from points T30, T40 and T20 down the vertical.
We align the sides of the tucks along the larger of the sides. We make out the side tuck smooth lines, back and front - straight. We draw the waist line with a smooth curve with closed tucks.
If we expand the straight skirt somewhat along the bottom line, then we draw the side line from the vertical to the right and left from point B2 to points H21 and H22.
H2H21 \u003d H2H22 \u003d 1 - 6 cm.
The lower end of the tuck, point B2, is connected to points H21 and H22.
If a straight skirt is designed with a seam or a fold in the middle, then we draw the line of the middle of the back panel through points B and T0 in a straight line until it intersects with the bottom line at point H0, and the line of the middle of the front panel - through points T11 and B1 in a straight line until it intersects with the bottom line at point H10:
TT0 \u003d T10T11 \u003d 0.5 - 1 cm.
At the same time, we align the length of the lines:
BN = BN0;
B1H1 = B1H10.
It is necessary that the slot or crease in finished product did not disperse. It is clear that if the skirt has, for example, only a slot in the middle of the back panel, and the front panel is cut out in one piece, the above indents should be made only in the middle of the back panel of the skirt.
We make out the bottom line with smooth curves. We draw a clear line around the contours of the back and front panels of the skirt.
cutting
1. The fabric intended for sewing a skirt must be either decaded (washed, according to the conditions of use of the fabric) before cutting - if it is cloth or wool that shrinks, or well ironed - if it is silk, cotton, etc.
2. The fabric should lie flat on the table, without distortion.
3. The edge is cut, not included in the width of the seam.
4. When cutting, the fabric is folded “in a fold” or “in a spread”.
5. When laying out the details on the fabric, the direction of the shared thread, the structure of the fabric, the pattern and pattern of the fabric are taken into account.
6. Once again, we recall that when laying out parts on fabric, it is necessary to achieve the most rational and economical layout.
7. Fold the fabric front side inside, put the patterns strictly along the shared thread of the fabric, in the middle to the fold.
8. Circle the patterns, apply the first chalk line strictly along the contour of the pattern, the second - with an allowance for the seams and for the bottom hem.
The clasp is placed on the left side, its length is 16-20 cm.
Pattern layout of a straight skirt on fabric with a directional pattern
Layout of a pattern of a straight skirt on a fabric 140 cm wide without a seam on the back panel
Pattern layout of a straight skirt on a fabric 140 cm wide with a seam on the back panel
For cutting, we lay a fabric on the table, folded in two additions face inward with a fold along the longitudinal thread. We lay out the details of the pattern on the fabric so that the bottom of the product is located along the transverse thread. We cut out the front panel in one piece with a fold, the back - with a seam in the middle, giving an allowance for the slot (more details below).
Grinding seam allowances:
Side: 3-4 cm (large enough allowance will allow you to further expand the skirt if necessary).
Slots: along the entire height of the middle of the back panel of the skirt 7 - 8 cm (during the fitting, the height of the slots will be specified, the excess will be cut off) - indicated by a black arrow in the photo.
Bottom hem allowance - 4 cm.
We do not give an allowance for the upper cut. We make a slight rise above the darts and side seams.
Cut out the belt, preferably along the share. Immediately glue it along the entire length and width with a dense interlining and iron it in half lengthwise with the right side out. The length of the belt should be equal to the full volume of the waist + 8-10 cm. The width is equal to twice the desired width of the belt in ready-made+ 2 cm for seams (you can, for example, take a width of 8 cm for a finished belt with a width of 3 cm).
We cut out the lining using the same patterns. We cut out both the front and back panels of the skirt lining in one piece (with a fold). We do not lay the allowance for the slot, the allowance for the bottom hem is also not needed, since the lining should be shorter than the top of the skirt. The allowances for the side seams and upper cuts are left the same as for the main fabric.
Preparing for fitting
We transfer the chalk lines of the seams to the second side in any of the following ways:
Using a wheel and carbon paper (or chalkboard);
With the help of tailor's pins and a ruler;
Silkami.
We sweep the front and back tucks, starting from the waist line, reducing to nothing at the ends. At the beginning and end of any basting seam, we make a backtack.
We notice the tucks front and rear towards each other.
We sweep the middle seam of the back half of the skirt from top to bottom. We notice the slot at this stage!
We sweep the side seams, leaving an allowance for the fastener 15-16 cm long on the left side.
We lay the seam lines in the area of the allowance for the fastener hand stitches threads in a contrasting color.
We sew a belt in two additions 1 cm from the edge to the upper cut of the skirt.
We notice the hem of the bottom of the product.
Fitting
During the fitting, we specify the volume and length of the product, note the height of the slots, and make the necessary changes.
If the product is wide, we fasten the excess with pins, and if it is narrower, we open the side seam and release the fabric from the seam stock, after pinning the middle of the panels to the linen with pins.
We make the same changes to the details of the lining fabric.
After trying on, we tear off the belt, unfold the hem of the bottom, mark the height of the slots with a thread.
We mark with a piece of chalk or soap the position of the pins stuck in the fitting, we overcast the seams.
We notice the section of the side seam under the fastener, previously left uncovered.
Machine processing
We grind the front and back tucks, starting from a wide section and ending the line to nothing. We grind the side seams, while we sew one part at a time and in one direction (for example, both seams along the back of the skirt from top to bottom). In the left side seam, we start the line from the "fastener" mark.
We grind the middle seam of the back half of the skirt from the top cut to the mark "Height of the slots" (this mark, I remind you, was made by you during the fitting). At the corner we make a rounding (such a seam is more resistant to tearing). We do not complete the slots 1 - 2 cm to the cut. We cut off the extra allowances above the slots, leaving an allowance along the middle seam 1.5 - 2 cm wide.
We perform all seams with a bartack, with the exception of the tops of the tucks, where the ends of the threads must be tied by hand.
We perform similar machining on the lining parts, with the only difference that the middle back seam there is no skirt on the lining (later the lining will be cut out above the vent in the shape of an arch).
We glue the allowance of the upper side of the slots with interlining along the entire length and width. If in doubt which side to glue, imagine the skirt worn inside out on ironing board so that the bottom of the product is with right hand, and the back middle seam of the skirt lay on top. Turn both allowances of slots towards you. The non-woven fabric should be glued with the allowance of the slots that lies on top.
Slices of the skirt - side, slots (from the bottom to the mark "height of the slots") - we overcast separately. We sew the middle seam above the "height of the slots" together. We sweep the sections of the lining separately.
Wet heat treatment.
We perform all wet-heat treatment only from the inside, using a wet iron (so that the allowances do not shine if we ever let them out of the seam). It is very convenient to use a seam roller for ironing (for straight seams) and a tailor's ham (for darts and roundings).
We put the skirt on the ironing board so that the bottom of the product is on the right hand. We iron the tucks front and back to the middle of the part.
We iron the back panel of the skirt in the buttocks area:
The area of the top of each back tuck, laid on a tailor's ham, is abundantly moistened, covered with an iron and driven in a circular motion iron very close to the surface of the fabric, but without pressing it completely. We dry the iron in this way. At the end, we press the iron and finally dry the fabric. As a result, the skirt in the buttocks area will take on a slightly rounded shape and the sharp protrusions of the tops of the tucks will be removed.
Side seams iron out so that there are no blockages from one part to another. We iron the middle seam of the back half and the slot that has been swept up so far away from us.
We iron the darts on the lining of the skirt to the edges of the parts. Iron the seams of the lining. It is not necessary to shoe the tops of the back darts on the lining.
Skirt base.
An essential step that greatly facilitates further sewing!
We turn the product on front side, fold in half with a fold in the middle of the parts, cleave with pins along the upper and lower sections. Side seams and darts must match. We cut all the irregularities, mark the hem line along the bottom of the product and transfer this line to the second side. We do the same on the lining of the skirt, with the exception of the mark of the bottom hem line.
We overcast bottom cut overlock or zigzag skirts.
Assessment of the quality of the completed project
If you evaluate your work on a ten-point system, then I think it's nine points.
When sewing a skirt, I had some difficulties. For example, when sewing a zipper into a skirt. This operation did not work out for me the first time, and I had to practice on a sample.
Now, when we sewed a straight skirt, I can sew any other skirt. I really enjoyed sewing.
During the work we used:
Fabric (Pikachu 1m X 180 rubles)
Interlining (0.4m X 45 rubles)
Lightning (1 piece x 10 rubles)
Button (1 piece x 2 rubles)
Threads (1 spool x 8 rubles)
In total, we spent 245 rubles on our product, excluding the cost of our work. It is more profitable to sew a product with your own hands than to buy it in a store. Moreover, the skirt is made according to my figure!
List of used literature:
Kuksa V.A.; The art of sewing. Saratov: Privolzh. Book. Publishing house, 1988. - 208 p.: ill.
Mirgorodskaya E.A.; Sewing secrets. Complex operations. Moscow. The world of the book. 2005 - 320s.
The pencil skirt is an important item women's wardrobe, which will never go out of fashion, and this is good reason- it looks on almost every figure. The main thing is to know what to wear with a pencil skirt: with a tucked-in shirt or a shirt with a belt, it will create a long, even line. In addition, she shows her legs, which clearly gives more femininity.
For example, a black skirt is classic version, a wardrobe staple, and can be worn with everything from a formal jacket to a sophisticated evening camisole. With the right clothes, you can create spectacular image that will win over those around you.
We select a skirt according to the figure
Weight and height are the two most important details which you should pay attention to when choosing a pencil skirt. The most best length- when the hem ends at the knees. But it can be a little higher or lower, but not shorter. The skirt should start at the waist and slide down the hips.
Do not wear a skirt with a too tight belt, you should be comfortable sitting in it. If you see horizontal lines developing along the thigh area, then this is also a poor match. If you choose a skirt according to your height and weight, it will gracefully follow your natural curves and be comfortable to wear.
If you want to look more slim, then give preference long models. Curvy girls at the same time, you can complement the skirt with a blouse with V-neck or a tunic to hide their fullness. The color of the clothes should not be too bright. In addition, clothing should not be too tight, it is better to choose an option where the waist is high.
If you are wearing a skirt high waist or with a thick belt, then the blouse on top will look best. It is better to wear shirts tucked into your clothes, as this will create thin waist, will do appearance more sophisticated, which is especially suitable for the office, and for little girls it creates the illusion of longer legs.
But if the figure is flat and it is difficult to see the waist, then it is better to choose a skirt with a low waist. Pair it with a button-down blouse or shirt and a tank top with a gathered bodice at the top.
Girls vertically challenged perfect pencil skirt just above the knee and shoes on high heels. The same option will look great on chubby ones.
It is important to choose the right shoes. For a pencil skirt, it is better to choose high-heeled shoes, let it be stilettos. Shoes without heels do not always fit well into such clothes, but if you wish, you can pick up something from these shoes.
Pencil skirt material
You will find on sale pencil skirts made from the most various materials: leather, jeans, knitwear, lace. And it is important to choose the one that is right for you. Think about what you will wear under it. Match a leather skirt with an elegant top or wear a jacket made of the same material.
If you have denim skirt with a high waist, then blouses, shirts, preferably white color, models in a cage, or cropped tops. And if you have leopard skirt, then you can complement the outfit with stilettos.
A pencil skirt with a peplum made of lace fabric. It gives room for imagination and allows you to combine it with the most different clothes. Shoes are also suitable for any - from classic pumps to sports boots.
Knitted skirts certainly do not fit under Office Style, but will still give attractiveness. However, you should be careful with clothes made from such a fabric, as it can show all the flaws in the figure. Wear a knitted skirt with a t-shirt, put on leather jacket, put on sneakers and conquer those around you with your beauty on your day off.
We select the color of the skirt
The best thing to have in your wardrobe different colors so that you can pick it up for any event. classic color- it is black, so a skirt of this color is a must-buy, especially if you businesswoman. gray and beige color will also blend well and be suitable for creating many looks.
If you want to wear a pencil skirt in winter, then give preference to checkered models which you can combine with many winter things- cardigans, turtlenecks. Any colors are in fashion now, there are absolutely no prohibitions. Therefore, you can choose any bright color- orange, lemon, green, turquoise, etc., the main thing is that it suits you.
by the most the best combinations are:
- Red and black,
- gentle light shades,
- white with any colors
- all shades of denim
- mustard with brown
- beige, pink, burgundy with black white, gray,
- gray with green, blue with white and beige.
What to wear under a pencil skirt
These models can be combined with feminine blouse or more men's shirt depending on your style and the skirt itself. You can choose any simple, multi-colored or striped model and combine it with a colored blouse with interesting neckline details or embellishments. If you prefer to divert attention from the waist or hips, then this best style For you.
Alternatively, you can opt for a skirt with eye-catching details such as vertical lines, a frill, a belt or accented pleats. Looks great pencil skirt leopard or white. In this case, you should wear more plain blouse or a shirt. This style works well on flat figures. Consider what to wear with a pencil skirt. There are many options, let's focus on the most interesting ones.
With a top or jacket
With a tank top with a bodice gathered at the top or with a jacket, this is one of the most fresh ways wear a pencil skirt. The belted silhouette makes your waist look tiny, it gives your figure beautiful combinations, it looks like an hourglass.
Well, a long pencil skirt visually makes you taller and slimmer. If you have a boyish figure, then this combination of clothes is perfect for her. And those who have full waist manage to hide it. Either way, it's a chic and glamorous look that never goes out of style.
With a women's blouse
One of the most attractive ways to wear a pencil skirt is to wear it with women's blouse. Choose something lacy, ruffled, or just a sheer top.
Floral and other beautiful prints will also look beautiful. And there's nothing more timeless than a bow blouse and pencil skirt look. Add traditional pearl accessories for more femininity and style.
in one color
Try to wear a skirt in the same color as the top, but with different shades. Want to enhance the effect more? Add shoes and a bag in two colors. simple lines and classical form skirts allow more experimentation with colors than with other clothing.
With a T-shirt
While many women associate pencil skirts with office wear, you can easily dress her up for the weekend. Try dressing her up with a t-shirt. This look is perfect for a date night or a night out.
dress up plain t-shirt and a pencil skirt with a necklace, or opt for a graphic printed tee for a more sophisticated look. But you should not use this combination for a formal office environment.
With cropped top
Cut-off tops are back in style, but in a smarter way than their '90s predecessors, so you don't have to worry.
This is no longer the simple cotton top, but made in a variety of luxurious fabrics and attractive prints. Pairing a cropped top with a pencil skirt can create a sexy yet chic look.
Leather pencil skirt
A leather skirt looks great, but leave aside all the other models, and give preference to a pencil skirt. Upstairs, you can wear whatever you like - a lace blouse or jacket.
However, be careful as this skirt fit slim girls. However, if your figure allows you to dress her, then you can afford to wear a leather skirt not only in night club, but also in the office and it will look very stylish.
With prints
You can create vivid images using a pencil skirt with prints. Upstairs it is better to wear plain clothes, but if you like to stand out from the crowd, you can pick up printed things. This option is great for fall, and it can easily transition into winter with tights, matching accessories.
more color
If you want to freshen up a gray office style (or just need a fun, colorful update), try wearing a pencil skirt in a bright, rich color, such as blue or blue-green. The yellow skirt looks great.
By knowing what to wear with a pencil skirt, you can always look great!
This is a straight, tight, figure-hugging skirt, knee-length (plus/minus five centimeters).
The fashion for this detail of women's wardrobe was introduced in the 40s by the great Christian Dior. The model very quickly became popular among fashionistas of those years.
In part, this success can be explained by the difficult economic situation in the post-war period, when fabrics were quite expensive and it was considered wasteful to sew puffy, wide-brimmed skirts.
The pencil skirt was further spread largely thanks to the first lady of America and style icon Jacqueline Kennedy, who was very fond of this style.
And until now, the pencil skirt does not lose its relevance and is almost always present in fashion collections regardless of the season.
Bally Pre Fall 2011
And this is easy to explain: nothing better emphasizes the waist and the graceful curve of the hip, it allows you to create a classic, elegant and at the same time very sexy look.
Versace spring summer 2011
Gicci spring summer 2011
Carolina Herrera spring summer 2011
Escada spring summer 2011
A pencil skirt is simply an indispensable thing for girls who are forced to comply with a strict dress code (and there are probably a lot of them among us). With what to combine it? Thousands of options! It's all about your style and personal taste. Perfect combinations with a white shirt and shirts pastel shades, all kinds of cardigans, tops, turtlenecks and jackets.
Ideally, if the neckline at the top of your image is V-shaped - this will help visually stretch the silhouette and slim the figure. The only rule that must be strictly observed is heels! elegant shoes / sandals with stilettos, platform or open toe ... and you are a goddess!
And among the famous fashionistas, the pencil skirt is very popular. They wear them in Everyday life and on red carpets. Let's look at the images created by celebrities, and maybe we can take note of something.
Always elegant Jennifer Aniston
Gwyneth Paltrow
Jennifer Love Hewitt
Carmen Electra
Speaking of a pencil skirt, it is impossible not to mention Victoria Beckham
Hayden Panettiere
charming Scarlet Johansson
Great image of Ashley Tisdale
Halle Berry
Freida Pinto looks very fresh
Baby in a million Hillary Swank, feels great in a gray pencil skirt... the guys in the background seem to like it too :)
Penelope Cruz
Paris Hilton can be smart whenever she wants... and look great!
And here is evening look performed Mary Elizabeth Winstead
Poppy Delevingne in a skirt from new collection Gicci
Malin Akerman
Jennifer Lopez in an outfit Gucci
The most beautiful presenter of Spanish television - Sara Carboner
Keith Hudson
Agyness Deyn
Leather skirt- the pencil has become a real hit among celebrities
Kate Moss
Christine Cavallari
Charming Eva Langoria
Kate Bosworth in a skirt with an interesting decor
Madonna looks amazing going out to dinner with Stella McCartney
To im kardashian not afraid to emphasize their forms
Jennifer Garner
Marion Cotillard
If these images inspired you, and you are thinking about buying such a skirt (first or next), I suggest you look where you can find interesting options:
1. A couple of interesting gizmos from H&M
3. Gorgeous skirts offered by the brand Victoria's Secret
4. B at last Asos:
When I was finishing writing the publication, I suddenly remembered a shot from the movie “Proposal” (Proposal) with Sandra Bullock, that moment when she proposed marriage to her assistant ... she still had to kneel on a busy New York street and how funny she tried to rise to her feet in a tight skirt and crazy Louboutin heels.. :)
Well, perhaps in everyday life this thing can bring some inconvenience, but we must admit that in a black suit with a pencil skirt, Sandra looked simply stunning!
Pencil skirt - perfect solution not only for women who want to demonstrate graceful forms, but also in order to hide excessive fullness. Due to the absence of folds and gathers, the pencil skirt fits snugly According to one version, the legendary Coco Chanel invented the pencil skirt, according to another, the British ...
figure, gradually narrowing down. The length of the pencil skirt can be different - from short to midi (just below the knee). If you want to sew long skirt pencil, the cut should be made at the back, without a cut in such a skirt it will be inconvenient to walk.
Sewing a pencil skirt is very easy. In order to model and sew such a tight skirt, you first need to build a base pattern of a straight skirt according to your own measurements, this can be done in just 15 minutes.
To build a drawing of a pattern for the base of a straight skirt (Fig. 1), you need to take the following measurements:
- Skirt length………………………72 cm
- Semi-waist………..36 cm
- Hips………50 cm
Pencil skirt pattern - construction
Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Pencil skirt width The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 51 cm (half circumference of the hips by measure plus 1 cm for all sizes): 50 + 1 \u003d 51 cm.
Pencil skirt length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are 72 cm (the length of the skirt to measure).
Rice. 1. Pencil skirt pattern
The side line of the pencil skirt. From point A, lay off 1/2 of segment AB to the right and set point T. From point T, lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the line DC.
The line of the hips of the pencil skirt. From points A, T, B they lay down 20-22 centimeters, put points L, L1 and L2 and connect them with a dotted line.
Calculation of the depth of darts on the waist line of a pencil skirt. Determine the difference between the semicircle of the hips according to the measure (together with the increase) and the semicircle of the waist according to the measure with an increase of 1 cm: 51-37=14. The difference is 14 cm. 7 cm (half of the difference) is removed into the side tuck, 3 cm into the front and 4 cm into the back (the remainder of the difference).
Side tuck skirt. The side tuck is 7 centimeters. From the point T to the right and left lay 3.5 cm each (half the depth of the side tuck): 7: 2 = 3.5 cm.
From points 3.5 up lay 1 centimeter. Points 1 are connected with dotted lines to point L1, divided in half, and from the division points left to the right and right to the left, 0.5 centimeters are laid aside. The line on the left is drawn through points 1, 0.5, L1, the line on the right - through points 1, 0.5, L1.
Front tuck of skirt. The depth of the front tuck is 3 cm. Set aside 5-6 cm from the side line to the right, draw a perpendicular down, the length of the front tuck is 9-10 cm. From the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the waist line, lay 1.5 cm to the right and left (half the depth of the front darts) 3: 2=1.5. The lower end of the tuck is taken 0.5 cm to the side seam.
Back tuck of skirt. The depth of the back tuck is 4 cm. AT is divided in half and 2 cm are laid from the division point to the left and right.
The length of the back tuck is 12-13 cm.
The waist line of the back half of the skirt. Point 1 is connected to point 2 (darts).
The waistline of the front half of the skirt. Point 1 is connected to point 1.5 (darts).
Note. If the difference between the semi-circumference of the hips according to the measurement with an increase and the semi-circumference of the waist according to the measurement with an increase is more than 14 cm, 2 tucks are made on the back half of the skirt. The first one is placed at a distance of 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, the tuck solution is 3-4 cm, the length is 13-15 cm. The remaining distance is divided in half, the second tuck solution is 2-3 cm, the length is 12-13 cm.
After building the main pattern of the skirt, you need to determine the length of the skirt. For a pencil skirt about 60 cm long, from the side line of the front and back of the skirt, it is necessary to set aside 2-2.5 cm (for narrowing) and draw straight lines from the hip line (red lines in Fig. 2).
Rice. 2. Modeling a pencil skirt
If the length of your pencil skirt is about 40 cm, then the pencil skirt must be further narrowed down by 1-2 cm along the side line.
IMPORTANT! If there is a “breeches” zone, it is necessary to control the volume of the pattern 10 cm below the hip line. If necessary, lower the upper points of the red construction lines 10 cm below the hip line.