How to crochet the edges of the product beautifully? How to turn a simple T-shirt into a stylish and fashionable one - master classes

25.09.2019

From an ordinary knitted T-shirt, you can make a cute thing that you can already wear, say, to a meeting with friends. To do this, tie the neck with cotton thread with beads:

Materials: T-shirt, thin cotton yarn, thin thread, beads of a contrasting color50 gr. with a thick eye, a thin needle for threading beads, hook 1.25 (photo1).

To begin with, we put on all 50 gr. beads through a needle on a thread. To the end of the main thread, you need to tie a thinner thread, insert it into the needle and string the beads. We untie the auxiliary thread and leave the beads on the yarn (photo2). The binding takes place from the inside, so we turn the T-shirt inside out (photo 3).

We start tying the neck of the T-shirt from left to right with a single crochet (photo 4). To do this, we insert the hook directly into the knitted fabric (photo5), grab the thread with a hook and pull it through the fabric (photo6),
again grab the thread and stretch through two loops at once
(photo 7). We knit the entire first row without beads.

We are already starting to knit the next row with beads with a single crochet (photo 8). We thread the hook into the base of the row, on the reverse side we grab thread 1 with beads (photo 9), we drag the thread into the loop, leaving the beads on the front side (photo 10). Thus, we knit two rows with beads.

We make the last, openwork row from chains of air loops with beads (photo 11). For the chain, we knit three air loops, each with 1 bead: insert the hook into the base of the row, grab the thread with 1 bead, knit the thread through the loop, leaving the beads outside, then grab the thread with beads again and pull it through the air loop - and again 2 times (photo 12). We knit the resulting chain of loops once in the base of knitting, skipping 2 loops of the base. That is, the column of air loops should, as it were, “hang” with a loop in the air, forming a lace wave.

Carefully close the last openwork row, hide all the threads on the wrong side in connected rows. Turn the T-shirt right side out and you're done!

You can knit a T-shirt-top for a party, it is also relevant for going to the beach. Lightweight breathable blouse will be more useful than ever in everyday life, especially in the summer heat. Today we will talk about beautiful crochet t-shirts with a description, diagrams and detailed tutorials for beginner craftswomen.

White summer tank top for beginners

We will need:

yarn (70% cotton, 30% viscose, 350 meters per 100 grams), 2 skeins;
cr. No. 3;
about 1.5 meters of a white narrow satin ribbon.

patterns

Cups: stick to cx. 1, where cr. R. from 1 to 6, etc. and arr. from 7 to 16.
Back: x. 2, where pr. and arr. rr..
Openwork: CX. 3, where cr. R..

Finished size: 36.

Scheme

Model Description

We carry out the work in stages.

bodice

Knitting is carried out in the direction from the bottom up.

The rise to a new row is determined in the middle of the front side, between the cups.

Having knitted 6 cm from the typesetting row, close 53 p. of the back and continue knitting each cup separately with straight and reverse rr. 1 from 7 to 16 rr.

Without cutting the thread, we start knitting straps (about 20 cm in length), repeating in height 17-18 rr. Sew the free end to the back.

We knit the second cup in exactly the same way, make another strap and sew it on.

Bottom part

Here we will use circular knitting from top to bottom, knitting an openwork pattern according to cx. 3 (about 10 repetitions). At this stage, we place the line of transition to a new row on the side.

Assembly

We finish the top of the bodice and along the edges of the straps (see figure 4). At the transition point from the top to the bottom, we thread a satin ribbon, which will regulate the volume under the chest and serve as a decor.

T-shirt with open back: video master class

Sunny T-shirt with an openwork stripe

We will need:

yarn (60% cotton, 40% polyacrylic, 130 meters per 50 grams), 5 (7) hanks;
cr. No. 3.5.

Finished product dimensions: 36/38 (42/44).

Main pattern: number of p. cr. 3 + 2 + 3 in. p.p. Knitting is carried out according to the scheme. with p. before rapp., rep. rapp., order. n. after rapp .. Replace the first s. from n. each r. for 3 in. p.. Repeat x 1 from 1 to 3 p., then alternate 2-3 p..

Knitted flowers x 10 (x 12): 6 c. p., ss. We continue knitting kr. R. according to cx. 2, each new cr. R. we start from v. p.p. instead of the 1st p. and finish ss. in the last c. p.p. Repeat from 1 to 3 cr. R. x 1. The second motive and then join. in the last cr. R. in the places indicated by the arrow with the help of ss. to the previous motive, to get a circle, we connect the last motive also with the first.

Density knitting osn. knots: 24 p. x 9.5 p. = 10 x 10 cm, flower 8.5 x 8.5 cm.

Scheme and pattern

Model Description

Back

We knit a chain of 101 (122) in. n. + 3 c. p.p., osn. pattern within 8 (9) cm.

For the top, we again make a chain of 101 (122) in. n. + 3 c. p.p., osn. pattern until a length of 16 cm is reached, where we leave 9 p. for washouts on both sides and 2 p. in each. x 3 p. = 71 (92) p..

Having knitted 26 (27) cm from the embankment. row, leave the central 39 (46) p. (neck section), finish each side separately.

For rounding, we leave from the inner edge in each p. 2 x 3 and 1 x 2 p. We finish the work after 35 (36) cm on the remaining 8 (15) p. of the shoulder on both sides.

the front of

It is knitted in the same way as the back, but with a deeper neckline: after 21 (22) cm from the emb. leave the central 27 (34) p. and in each p. 4 x 3 and 1 x 2 p..

Assembly

We carry out seams of the lower and upper parts. We connect a strip of flowers with the top and bottom with chains from c. p.. We tie all the edges of 1 cr. R. “Shells” (= * 1 s. without n., skip 1 p. pr. p., in the next p. 5 s. with n., skip 1 p. pr. p. *, from * to *).

Top T-shirt Fillet crochet diagonally: video mk for beginners

Air top for beginners

We will need:

yarn (50% cotton, 50% acrylic), 150 grams;
cr. No. 3.

Finished product size: 46-48.

Knitting density: 22 p. x 17 p. = 10 x 10 cm.

Scheme and pattern of the model

Model Description

Back

At the height 42 cm from beg. for openings, we decrease the item on both sides, as shown in the diagram..

At the height 59 cm from beg. leave 59 p. in the center and then knit both sides separately (1 rapport + 1 p. symmetry). Finishing work in 2 p.

the front of

Knit in the same way as the back. To make a deeper cut, at vys. 37 cm we leave the central 27 p., We knit the sides separately.

To cut the neck, leave on the inside in each p. alternating 3 p. and 2 p. until we get 1 rapport + 1 p. symmetry. We finish knitting at a height of 60 cm.

Assembly

We carry out side and shoulder seams, we do the processing of the edges of the armholes and the bottom of the product with a hook and 3 p. With. without n., and then - 1 p. "crawl step".

Knitting openwork T-shirts for beginners

We will need:

yarn (57% viscose, 20% linen, 8% cotton, 15% popiacryl, 105 meters per 50 grams), 5 hanks;
knitting needles number 4;
cr. No. 3.5.

Finished size: 36-38.

Lace square: chain from 6 c. p., ss., further along cx. crochet 1. Knitting each cr. R. we start marked in. p. instead of the first p.

We finish 1 and 4 kr. R. 1 ss. in the last v. p.p., second cr. R. finish 1 s. from n. and 8 ss. 1st cr. r., third cr. R. finish 1 s. without n. in c. p.p. Repeat 1 x 1-4 cr. R..

Fringing from arches (number of p. kr. 9): according to cx. crochet 2 directly on 5 cr. R. bottom edge, this kr. R. is given under cx .. We start from the 1st century. n. instead of the 1st s. without n. and n. before the rapport, we repeat the rapport, having finished. 1 ss. in c. p.p..

Important! We knit arches in purl and facial rrs. The arrows indicate the direction of knitting.

Openwork pattern (23 p. + 2 edging): according to cx. for knitting needles (only facial pp. are indicated, in purl pp, we knit all stitches and crochets with purl ones). We start and finish. 1 edge loop, repeat 1-12 rr..

Knitting density: square - 9 x 9 cm; openwork - 25 p. x 28 p \u003d 12.5 x 10 cm; front surface - 18.5 p. x 28 p. = 10 x 10 cm; 20 s. from n. bottom = 10 cm.

Important! The direction of knitting changes in the process, follow the signs on the pattern!

Scheme and pattern of the model

Model Description

Lower front side and back

We need to make 8 squares, then sew them into a strip, connecting the first and eighth, resulting in a circle, where 1-4 motifs are the front, 5-8 are the back.

For the upper finishing plank, we tie the right long edge of the strip 4 cr. r., each cr. R. starts from the 1st or 3rd century. n. instead of the first s. without n. or the first s. from n. and finished. 1 ss. in the last replacing c. P..

1 p.: 152 p. without n. (= 19 s. without n. per square).

2 p.: 1 s. s n., * over 1 s. without n. etc. cr. R. do 1 in. p., 1 p. from n. in sl. With. without n. *, from * to *, 1 c. p. and 1 ss. in the 3rd c. p.p..

3 p.: in each s. from n. and in. n. 1 s. with n..

4 p.: p. without n. The height of the top bar is 3 cm.

For the bottom plank, we tie the left long edge of the strip 6 cr. R.:

1 p.: 160 s. from n. (= 20 s. s. per square).

2 p.: p. without n..

3 p.: 2 c. n. instead of the first semi-st., * over 1 s. without n. etc. cr. R. do 1 in. n., 1 half-st. in sl. With. without n. *, from * to *, ending. 1 in. p. and 1 ss. in the 2nd c. p.p..

4 p.: in each semi-st. and every c. n. 1 s. with n, while in the 1st and 80th c. n. you need to connect 2 s. from n. = 162 s. with n..

5 p.: 3 c. n. instead of the 1st s. from n., * over 2 s. without n. previous cr. R. do 2 in. p., 1 p. from n. in the next With. without n. *, from *, over 2 s. without n. previous cr. R. 2 in. p., 1 ss. in the 3rd c. p.p..

6 p .: we knit 1 edge of the arches according to cx. crochet 2 (= 18 rapports, incl. beginning p.). The height of the bottom bar = 6.5 cm.

Center front and back

We crochet 25 sts and press between the hem sts with an openwork pattern. Through 72.5 cm = 204 p. from emb. the edge is all p. closed. We sew the first and last pp, the left long edge of the openwork strip to the final edge of the strip of squares is slightly seated.

Upper back

We crochet 66 sts, front surface. For bevels approx. from emb. edges from two sides in each 4 p. 6 x 1 p. = 78 p. After 10 cm = 28 p. from emb. to. closing for washouts of two sides 2 p. and in each 2 p. 4 x 2 and 7 x 1 p.

Having knitted 18.5 cm = 52 p. from emb. to. close for the neckline, last 44 sts..

Top front

66 p., facial surface. After 2 cm = 6 p. from set. to. we mark the 16th and 51st p. for the bust shape. In the next. persons. R. do on both sides of the marked. n. 1 yarn over and knit them in the out. R. purl (= 4 inc. p.); these increases rep. another x 3 in each. 2nd river After 5.5 cm = 16 p. from set. to. approx. for bevels from two sides 1 p. and in the next. 6th river 1 more x 1 p. = 86 p.

Important! Approx. and ub. for the bust on the pattern are not taken into account; on the contrary, it is based on the dimensions of the back.

We carry out the openings as on the back. Simultaneous with the 1st decrease in the proyochek, we perform one double for the bust shape. prot.: remove the marked item from the previous one. n. together as a front, trace. we knit the front stitch and stretch it through both removed stitches. These decreases are repeated. x 3 more times each. 4th p.. Simultaneously. with the first decrease in the openings, close. for the neckline, the central 2 p. and both sides finished. separately. For bevel cutout close. crochet in each. 2 p. 4 x 2 and 6 x 1 p. back we knit the remaining 3 sts with each. double sides. prot.; do not cut the working thread.

Assembly

We carry out side seams of the top of the back and front; sew the upper back and front along the pattern to the right long edge of the openwork strip. For straps, we include a loop and a working thread on the upper toes of the front, we knit a chain from 60 in. n. + 1 c. p., we tie the set. chain edge 60 s. without n. and finished. on the toe front 1 ss ..

For the final edge, we tie the common edges of the straps, armholes and neckline with 2 cr. R..

1 p.: p. without n., pay attention to an even number of stitches. In the corners of the back we knit for rounding by 4 s. without n. in the edge p..

2 p.: 3 c. n. instead of the 1st s. s n., * over 1 s. without n. prev. cr. R. need to do 1 in. p., 1 p. from n. in a trace. With. without n. *, repeat from * to *, order. 1 in. p. and 1 ss. in the last c. p.p.; sew on straps.

Openwork top: video instruction

White beach top

We will need:

yarn (100% cotton, 125 meters per 50 grams), 5 (6) 6 hanks;
cr. No. 3;
3 buttons.

Finished product sizes: 34-36 (38-40) 42-44.

It is important to prepare the pattern in advance and carry out approx. and ub. crochet, checking the workpiece with it.

Openwork at. (number of p. kr. 8 + 3 v. p, p.): circular pp. according to cx .. Beg. with p. before rapp., rep. p. rapp., order. n. after rapp., no. 1 x 1-7 rr., then alternate 2-7 rr.

Border: 1 s. s.n., pass. 2 p., 5 s. from n. in 1 p. bases, pass. 2 p. *, from * to *.

Knitting density: With. from n. - 18.5 p. x 12 p. = 10 x 10 cm; openwork y. - 22.5 p. x 12 p. = 10 x 10 cm.

Model Diagram

Model Description

right cup

34th c. n. + 3 c. p.p., p. with n., while kazh. R. beginning from the 3rd c. p.p. instead of the 1st s. With. n. After 9 cm from the set. leave on the left side 17 p. After 18 cm from the set. we finish work.

Left cup

Symmetrical right.

Bottom

224 (240) 256 c. p., ss. in a ring, openwork. at .. In the 13th p. decrease for fitting 40 p.: prop. 40 x across. each 5 and 6 s. without n. (40 x each. 6 s. without n.) 35 x each. 6 and 5 x each. 8 s. without n. = 184 (200) 216 p.

These ub. repeat in the 25th p., pass. 40 x across. each 4 and 5 s. without n. (40 x each 5 s. without n.) 25 x transversely. every 5 and 6 and 16 x every 5 s. without n. = 144 (160) 176 p..

After 24 cm from the set. for the cut, we divide the work at the beginning of the cr. R. and knit pr. and arr. rr.. After 32 cm from the set. do 3 p. With. with n..

Assembly

Issue. crochet the central seams of the cups, we tie them on both sides with a border. Sew them to the bottom so that the lion. cup of the beginning at the cutout. For each strap we attach a thread to the corner of the cup, we make a chain from v. p. 30 cm long and tie it with a border. Sew on straps, tying. cut 1 p. With. without n., while doing 3 loops for buttons. We sew buttons.

Top T-shirt: video mk for beginners

Elegant summer white top

We will need:

yarn (100% cotton, 150 meters per 50 grams), 4 skeins;
cr. No. 3.

Finished product sizes: 34-36 (38-40).

Flower at. (number of p. kr. 19 + 18 (5) + 3 v. p. p.): according to ..

Knitting density: 24.5 p. x 10.5 p. = 10 x 10 cm.

Model Diagram

Model Description

Back

94 (100) c. p. + 3 c. n..

After 17 cm from the set. to. we add two sides 1 s. from n. = 96 (102) p..

After 27 (28) cm from the embankment. we finish work.

Front side

The same, but with cutouts for the bust. We draw and cut out the pattern in full size and after 20 cm from the embankment. issue reductions under the bust, applying knitting to the pattern.

Bust (x 2)

6th c. p., ss .. According to cx. 2 direct and reverse pp. We replace the 1st s. from n. or half art. each r. for 3 or 2 in. p.p..

Repeat 1 x 1-4 rows, then alternate 3 and 4 rows, while continuing to increase in the middle. After 18 (19) p. from emb. we are finishing.

Assembly

Sitting down a little, we sew both honors of the bust, then vol. crochet side seams. We tie the bottom 1 cr. R. With. without n. and “shells” (1 v. p. p., * 2 v. p., prop. 4 p., issue in the next p. n., 1 s. with n., 1 semi-st. *, from * to *).

We tie the top 1 cr. R. "shells". To knit the straps, we attach the thread to the upper cape of the bust, we knit along the chain from c. n. 35 cm long, and tied. their 1 p. semi-st. Straps are tied around the neck or sewn to the back.

Selection of schemes

Crocheting is such a vast art that even tying the edges of a variety of products allows you to choose from many possible options. Moreover, such a detail as a crocheted border can give a simple thing, like the most ordinary dress or blouse, an elegant sophisticated look, or, conversely, turn into a ridiculous-looking product that you don’t want to wear, even if it turns out to be the only one in the wardrobe. Therefore, it is so important to learn how to combine crochet styles and successfully apply them in the details that play their role in shaping the style - the edges of the crochet product.

Tablecloths, handkerchiefs, napkins, towels, curtains, sleeves and the neck of any component of the wardrobe will look completely new if you choose the right pattern for crocheting the edge. By the way, this technique is also used if there is a need to “hide” the craftswoman’s mistakes, which can be easily seen with the naked eye on the edges of the products. And also finishing the edge with different knitted patterns that can give a second life to any old little thing that you don’t want to part with at all.

Crocheting the edge of the product - diagrams and description

Choosing the right pattern on the border is already half the battle. This issue has its own subtleties that are important to consider when choosing a pattern for the edge of the product:

narrow border (up to 1.5 cm) - suitable for light knitted items with openwork motifs, and also ideal for children's clothing;
Border that passes into the collar (5-8 cm or 15-20 cm) - goes with most knitwear.
Wide trim pattern (1.5 - 4.5 cm) - looks good on products made of yarn of medium thickness, namely, on the edges of the sleeves and the neck of jumpers and pullovers.

A beautiful pattern along the edge can be knitted directly when creating the whole thing - then you don’t have to suffer by fitting the openwork ribbon to the product, but you can sew on the finished border by tying it in advance. Here the choice is quite simple.

But the options for patterns for tying the edges provide much more space. So, what are the possible options for finishing and decorating the edge of a knitted product with a hook do needlewomen have?

crayfish step

The most favorite crocheting option among beginner knitters is the crochet step, consisting of single crochets that are knitted from left to right: starting to the right of the working loop. This pattern allows you to maintain the original shape of the canvas, preventing the edge from stretching. This method of tying the edges also has its own varieties.

step from left to right

The hook is inserted into the first loop on the right and a single crochet is knitted. Insert the hook into the next loop on the right and knit a single crochet again. And so on to the end of the row.

step from right to left

This option of tying the edges is considered more complex, but also more familiar. With the working loop on the hook, insert the hook into the loop on the left and grab the working thread. Pull up the thread and with both loops on the hook, turn the nose of the hook counterclockwise (see diagram above). After twisting the loops on the hook, yarn over and pull it through both loops on the hook. With one working loop on the hook, insert the hook into the loop on the left (moving away from you) and grab the working thread. Pull out the loop. After twisting the loops on the hook again, yarn over and pull it through both loops on the hook. Continue in the same way. The resulting rad should look something like this.

Pico

Crochet pico crochet patterns.

Pico tying consists in chains of several air loops closed in a circle - from three or more. These loops are ideal for tying cuffs and sleeves.

A row of pico is performed on the front side of the product. Chain 1, skip first single crochet, work 1 single crochet into next single crochet. Work a chain of 4 stitches, then single crochet into the first stitch of this chain to make a picot. Work 1 single crochet into each of the next 2 single crochets. Continue knitting picot and 2 single crochets around the edge of the product in the same way. There are also several other options for knitting pico (see diagram above).

Arched harness or Shell

The pattern is obtained by knitting loops of different heights with the highest loop in the center. The shell can be done in a row, knitted with single crochet, half crochet and double crochet. The binding is performed on the front side of the product. Chain 1, single crochet 1 into the next stitch. Skip 1 st, work 1 half double crochet, 3 double crochets and 1 half double crochet - all in the next loop. Skip 1 st and single crochet 1 into the next st to secure the edge of the shell. Continue tying the edge of the product with shells in the same way.

Border of decorative openwork patterns

Here, the form and all kinds of schemes are not limited by anything but the imagination and capabilities of the knitter. There are so many options for crocheting an openwork border, from the simplest to the incredibly complex. Often they are crocheted separately from the entire product and then sewn to the desired edges. Consider several schemes and how to use them on different things.

Neck strapping

Very often, needlewomen are looking for ways to crochet the neck of a sweater or sweater so as to hide the open cuts of the product, and at the same time, the thing has acquired a more interesting and special look. There are many ways to do this, you just have to choose from dozens of schemes the most appropriate strapping style. Consider a few examples of how to beautifully crochet a neck to improve the look of a knitted thing and not ignore the principle of completeness.

Quick neck tying

This step-by-step design option is suitable for beginners and those needlewomen who do not have time to perform more complex neck processing. It turns out beautiful and simple.

A knitted product can be decorated with a neck made in a circle, or the ends of the neck can be joined with a seam.

We take the finished fabric and crochet from the wrong side of the working thread, pull the loop to the front side.

Thus, we collect several loops on the hook. Important: the loops must not be cast on loosely.

Then these loops are thrown onto the knitting needle, after which we continue to dial loops with the hook. We pull the loop with a hook, transfer it to the knitting needle, etc.

Loops are set. Now we knit the first row in such a way that there are front loops from the inside, and purl loops in the front row. If we knit the neck in a circle - we knit the wrong loops. If with a seam - facial.

If you want to achieve a “factory effect” of connecting the collar with the product, we knit the first row with knitting needles as follows: on the wrong side of the product, the first row is knitted with facial loops (the loops will be purl on the front side), and then the first row on the front side looks like the collar is pinned needle.

According to the first knitting option of the first row, the following result is obtained:

Then we knit the neck of the desired length. If this is a loop lapel, close it with knitting needles or crochet, if desired. If it is a stand-up collar, it is better to close the loops with a needle.

Nice neck finish

This is also a simple crochet option for a beautiful edge, in which the most difficult and important thing is to correctly calculate the rapport of the pattern.

The height of the rapport is the width of the bar. The width of the rapport is the number of loops by which the number of loops of the entire length of the neck is divided without a remainder. For example: plank height 16 rows. 16/2=8. Rapport cannot be less than 8 loops. On 8 loops we will have an openwork decker.

In this case, the neck is 180 loops. The rapport of 12 loops 180:12=15 was determined by the selection method. 15 repetitions of rapport.

It is better to have 2 additional loops for stitching the strap. In my case, this is not the case, but the difference in the neck pattern on the shoulder line is not noticeable.

You need to knit according to the following scheme, in which only odd rows are indicated:

floral pattern

The pattern for tying is a bush of a chain in three air loops and two double crochets. It is knitted from one point - the base of the chain. The bushes are fixed with a half-column at a certain distance from each other (for example, in two loops of the fixing row of the neck). At the beginning of the row, make one air loop for lifting. Follow the pattern.

Nice sleeve finish

Often, the sleeves are crocheted in the same pattern as the neckline - in this way, the thing is designed in the same style, which means it looks harmonious. Let's try to knit a few simple patterns.

Sleeve scallops

First of all, dial a chain of 5 air loops.

Insert the hook under the cast on chain, grab the working thread and pull up the loop.

Grab the working thread again and knit the elongated loop. This is how the first single crochet was obtained, knitted from under the chain, and 2 loops remained on the hook.

Knit the elongated loop, another loop will be added to the hook.

When there are 11 loops on the hook, grab the working thread and knit through all the loops from the hook.

Now secure the scallop by single crochet, stepping back 3 loops from the beginning of the scallop. Scallop to end of row following step by step photo.

It is necessary to work according to the following scheme:

Large lace border

At the beginning of the row, knit an air loop. Insert the hook under the nearest braid of the edge to be tied. Knit a single crochet. Knit the air loop again.

Insert your hook into the front loop of the upper braid of the single crochet knitted earlier and then insert the hook into the left side loop of the same single crochet. Insert the hook under the nearest braid of the edge to be tied. Pull out the loop. Pick up the thread and knit a single crochet. You need to repeat from 4 to 8 points. The result is such a binding of the edge, which, due to its elasticity, will not tighten the bottom of the product.

Product bottom

You can crochet the bottom of the product in a variety of ways, but we will consider one of the easiest options, and a more complex and beautiful tying method, suitable not only for knitted items, but also for towels, tablecloths and other material products.

Binding the bottom of the Pico item

Along the edge of the product, start knitting with two single crochets.
Next, chain 3 stitches and guide the hook into the base of the single crochet as shown in the photo. Then double crochet again and 3 chain stitches after them.

floral border

A row with a floral motif is knitted as follows: ch 3. lifting, 3 CCH in the first arch from the vp, 1 CCH in the next arch. We begin to knit a flower: ch 3, 3 unfinished dc on one loop of the base, knit all loops on the hook = 1st petal. Ch 4, remove the hook from knitting, insert into the upper part of the connected group of columns from right to left, grab the last loop of the chain and pull it through all loops = ringlet.

Next petal: *ch3, dc 2 in ring, ch3, sc in ring* (= 2nd petal), repeat from * to * 2 more times. Last petal: ch 3, 3 unfinished dc, work through all loops on the hook (= 5th petal). The flower is ready.

3 CCH through one arch of the previous row, 1 CCH into the next arch, and we begin to knit the next flower.

Video lesson

Decorating the edges of knitted products with a crochet is not an easy task, because first you need to choose a beautiful pattern, then knit it correctly and without unnecessary broaches, and then sew it on so that it looks perfect, and most importantly, in its place. It may be difficult for beginner craftswomen to cope with this task at first, but do not despair. You can always "peep" the secrets of this craft from more experienced craftswomen.

Crochet the edge of the product video:

Somehow I bought the simplest knitted T-shirt under one openwork cape, but the color did not fit and the T-shirt lay idle with me. That is to say, unworn. I don't just wear these. And so, when she completely smeared my eyes with her stupid lying, I had the idea to transform her. I picked up suitable cotton threads for it and started.

Master class №1

At first I wanted to knit small sleeves for her, and later I wanted to decorate the back with an openwork insert. Of course, there were many options, but I settled on this one.

I knitted such fragments for sleeves from four quadrangles and two triangles, and assembled the insert from four quadrangles. Tied up with ropes.

Didn't cut off the hem on the sleeves.

When sewing, the edge will not stretch and does not need to be processed.

I thought it would be thick and stand out, but everything turned out fine. I stitched the finished sleeve to the armhole of the T-shirt with a small zigzag.

It is better to tack it with threads to the fabric so that it does not move out and does not stretch, but, relying on my experience, I simply pinned it with pins, which I later regretted. I attach with a zigzag. If you pick up threads for sewing the same as the insert, then the lines are not visible at all.

Next, turn it inside out and gently

Stepping back half a centimeter from the line, cut out the T-shirt under the insert. In general, that's all!

It remains only to slightly steam so that the fabric does not wrinkle.

It turned out like this:

Master class №2

For the black shirt I needed:

- T-shirt;
- black cotton threads;
- black viscose for finishing;
- hook;
- pins.

Since the black color cannot be called summer, I wanted to make the T-shirt more closed. I will decorate with an openwork yoke with a lowered sleeve, in front with buttons, according to the scheme.

I dial a chain of 172 ch. + 3 lifting loops. I gain with a margin, a little more, then the extra tip can be cut off or dissolved. Each report consists of 14 air loops.

Then I distribute: 1 rapport in front, 3 rapports on the sleeves and 3 rapports on the back, 1 more rapport in front. I will replace the third front report with a button placket. I will tie it at the end.

I knit according to the scheme to the desired size, when the width of the back is equal to the width of the T-shirt (or the half-girth of the chest). I managed to repeat the pattern 3 times.

Next, I knit a bar on both sides of 10 rows of single crochets, not forgetting to make three loops on the right.

I connect the front and back, overlapping one half on the other, and tie the bar, neck and bottom of the yoke with shells with a finishing thread.

I sew a knitted yoke to a T-shirt. In the right place on the T-shirt, I simply drew a line along the ruler where the seam will pass, and divided it by the number of rapports. This makes it easier to distribute.

I attach with a small zigzag.

I remove the basting, steam the finished product and sew on the buttons. This is how the jacket turned out.

Master class number 3

For the white shirt you need:
- white shirt;
- white cotton threads;
- a few large beads;
- plastic rings for the belt;
- hook;
- pins.

The T-shirt will become a romantic top with a lace frill, which we will knit according to the scheme:

I made the shuttlecock narrower, starting to knit from the 14th row, but you can knit it all over the pattern (as you like). I dial a chain of 298 ch. I will have a shuttlecock consisting of 24 rapports. I'm stocking up on a chain.

I do not connect it into a ring, but I knit the first row in the opposite direction. This is necessary if you suddenly want to add one or two more rapports in the process of knitting the first row. It will be easier then to cut off the excess than to dissolve and add the missing loops.

Having connected 24 rapports, I connect the first row with a half-column, making sure that the tape does not twist.

Then I return to the chain. In fact, it can be done at any time. The extra loops of the chain, if any, I dissolve, insert the hook into the last loop of the chain, grab the loose tip and connect with a half-column.

We tie the upper side of the finished shuttlecock first with two rows of single crochets, one row is a double crochet 1 ch. (we will insert a cord into these holes to correct the upper edge) and make the last row decorative from fans. In fact, this harness can be the most diverse, as you like. It remains only to sew the finished shuttlecock to the inlay of the T-shirt itself. First, I pin with pins, evenly distributing the assemblies.

I sew a shuttlecock for each column from the wrong side.

The blouse can optionally be decorated with a flower in the form of a rose, a belt of tied rings with beads. I decided to tie the bottom of the blouse in the same way as the top of the frill, to give romance and airiness.

Here is the result:

Blouse can be worn with dropped shoulders:

Master class number 4

To remake the red T-shirt, I need:
- red T-shirt;
- red cotton threads;
- hook;
- pins.

In fact, the color of the T-shirts can be any, and the threads can be chosen both in tone and in contrast.

Here are the options for the schemes, I knitted on the top:

What should happen in the end, I had a very vague idea. At the beginning, I wanted to knit two wide straps according to the scheme, but when I started knitting, it turned out to be very wide for one strap. I had to cut the drawing in half. I decided to leave the wide part on the back, as the option with an openwork carved back was originally conceived, and then move on to the shoulders.

Next, I decided to connect these two stripes on the chest. This is the insert I ended up with:

Now the most important thing is to sew it exactly to the T-shirt. To do this, on the T-shirt in front and behind we answer the center and the main contours.

We pin:

And sew with a small zigzag:

Here's what happened on the front side:

I agree, the machine does not sew jersey very well.

Steam the shirt from the inside out.

It could stop there. But, for the most daring, for whom this option was created, the fun begins: cutting out the back! Stepping back about 0.5 cm, cut out the inside. I was so carried away by the process that I did not photograph this stage. But, I think that's how everyone understood. I cut out everything, even the straps waved away so that they would not interrupt the insert pattern.

This is what the shirt looked like:

Front view:

And this is the back:

Here are the shirts:

Before conversion: After conversion:

Master class number 5

I decided to show you another option for altering a factory jumper. I must say right away that I have been redoing this for a long time, so the quality and quantity of photos are not up to par.

Once a friend came to me in a factory teenage blouse, an imitation of a two-piece (the bottom is black with some kind of inscription on the back, and on top is a gray vest), which did not suit her age at all. The blouse itself was of decent quality, and the straps of the vest were fairly stretched out, twisted and sagged during wear. Seeing how she suffers, constantly adjusting them on her shoulders, I offered her to chop them off :) During our long friendship, a friend got used to trust me and would gladly give me even a new thing for alteration. Then the girlfriend no longer participated.

I needed:
- knitted jumper;
- yarn of a suitable color;
- hook;
- scissors.

I cut off the straps in front and behind approximately along the red lines:

Found the right pattern. It can be any napkin pattern that fits the size. The diameter of mine is equal to the width of the back

I started knitting from the back, knitting a semicircle of the desired diameter, I moved on to knitting straps according to the scheme:

Gradually narrowing them to the width of the front straps. After tying them to the desired length, I sewed them to the front. Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of how I did it, but I think you don’t need to teach this.

It remains only to tie around the armhole and neck. Here are some examples of binding:

The straps have become wider and no longer twist.

The openwork back covered the incomprehensible inscription on the back.

I also tied the neck of a black sweater with such fans for combination.

Well, that's it! The whole village is in shape. Girlfriend is delighted!

Details, as you know, can ruin or save any thing. A product knitted in a variety of techniques will have a complete look if it is supplemented with a strapping that is suitable in style. A hook is an indispensable tool for making the original edge of a knitted blouse, dress, napkin or tablecloth. The strapping patterns are so diverse that they allow you to decorate with a crochet not only the finished thing, but also hide the flaws that often occur when making the edge of the strap, bottom and other details of the knitted product. In addition to interestingly completing the edge, crochet patterns are used to gracefully finish knitting cuffs, collars, tying necks and knitting borders for interior items. Tying the edge with a hook after this article will not be a problem, because we have selected patterns for work especially for you.

The most common ways of processing the edge are the step step, pico, lacing, arched from air loops.

The method of tying the edge with a crochet with diagrams and descriptions

This type is considered the easiest way to make a beautiful neat edge, it is especially in demand in children's models. It is most often performed with single crochets, which are knitted into a loop to the right of the working loop. Such an unconventional move - from left to right - explains the fixed name.

There are several options for knitting a crayfish step, we will show one of them in the video:

Method 2: pico for beginners

Pico is a slightly more complicated way to crochet an edge. Interesting for tying the edge of the sleeve, cuff, hat, beret. There are several ways to knit a picot, based on the thickness of the thread, the number of air loops connected in a picot is selected. The diagram shows different options for this knitting.

Method 3: arched strapping from air loops

It is performed with air loops according to the scheme, it is often used in the border of stoles and shawls, it can be supplemented with a variety of brushes.

Method 4: we knit beautiful openwork

How to tie the edge of the product we need with a hook? Laces that combine all of the above patterns, as well as many others that require more complex patterns to create a beautiful product. The choice of an openwork pattern is always determined by the style, the purpose of the product, it depends on the taste of the knitter and her skills in crochet work.

To decorate the bottom of the tablecloth, a large napkin, where you want to knit a beautiful border, you can use the schemes:

We have collected the most common openwork patterns in a selection of ideas, the schemes are taken from sources found in the public domain:

An unusually beautiful crocheted border will require certain skills and experience from the knitter, but the result will be impressive:

Video on the topic of the article

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