How to make ball joints for a ball-jointed doll. How do-it-yourself articulated dolls are made

15.06.2019

The limbs of textile dolls can be attached to the body in various ways to make them articulated. This article is about connecting with a ball or bead.

Option with a tied soft bead

The first way

At the fold (elbow or knee), a ball twisted from fabric is sewn in. It can also be made of padding or a regular bead. You will need to thread it on both sides of it. The remnants of the threads are hidden inward.

Ball-jointed doll with fastening of joints through a soft bead

Second way

You can sew an arm or a leg in two parts (for example, a forearm and a hand), and a small ball of stuffed fabric will be sewn between them.

As a rule, in the future, such connections are closed on top with a cloth, in most cases - with doll knitwear.

Using regular beads

You will need a bead with a large hole. It is good if it is a wooden bead, as it will make the doll's joints more stable and dense, and will not slip.

Bead-hinged fastening.

Suitable made of wood, matching the color of the main material of your toy, or, on the contrary, contrasting. You can also glue the beads with the same material from which you sewed the doll.

They can also be used as a decoration, if you pick up original beads, as here:

Beads can be attached to the limbs not only with threads, but also with braid, fishing line or ribbons. Alternatively, you can arrange them horizontally or vertically. For example, when you want to attach the thread drawn through the ball to the sides of the limbs, the hole will be horizontal. Another option is to pull the thread through a vertically positioned ball. Here's an example:

Hidden bead

This is a discreet way to connect parts when the hinge is in the body of the toy and padding holds it in place.

A do-it-yourself articulated doll is quite real. And confirmation of this is the mass of master classes for novice needlewomen. If you have perseverance and scrupulousness, you have good sculpting ability and artistic taste, then it is likely that you will understand the first time how to make a ball-jointed doll and everything will work out.

We will try to tell and show in detail for beginners everything about the process of creating a do-it-yourself articulated doll. The whole process will be accompanied by a photo. The photos were taken from different master classes, since after reviewing many, we did not find the ideal ones, which show everything in full. But at the heart of 2 of them: from the author Minchenko Tatyana Vladimirovna and tatala.

Jointed dolls are cast and molded (plastic, papier-mâché, clay, porcelain). Let's see the 2nd option, as it is less expensive. And materials can be purchased as a set.

The whole process of creating your own doll can be divided into 3 large stages:

Preparation of tools, materials, idea of the doll and sketching.
Modeling, baking, initial processing and the first assembly of the doll.
Decorating and artistic transformation.

Preparation of tools, materials, idea of the doll and sketching

The tools need to be prepared in advance, so that later you do not get into a hopeless situation and not spoil the work. You will need your manicure set, and preferably a dental one. You will need tiny drills, files, needle files, an awl, wire of different thicknesses, an elastic band (round), sandpaper of different textures, as well as brushes. We need something like this set. And most importantly - plastic is a self-hardening material, capricious - it does not tolerate drying out!).

Even before starting work, you need to come up with an image of your doll to the smallest details: age, gender, physique. We advise all sketch. For a natural looking body, you need to study anatomical structure... Of course, you can do it easier - just take sketch from the internet, but then the doll will be devoid of individuality. But for a start, you can do that. Also take optimal size: 15-20 cm - small and requires special meticulousness and skill, 50-60 cm - large and will take a lot of time and costs, 25-30 cm - it is the most!

So, you can take such a sketch

Modeling, baking, initial processing and the first assembly of the doll

We proceed to the second most laborious stage. I propose to sculpt body parts in the following order:

torso and head;
hinges (slopes);
legs-arms and fit with hinges.

All parts should be hollow except for the hands and feet.

The torso can be sculpted in several approaches. 2 optimal ones - on the basis of foam (take with a fine texture - it will be easier to cut the desired shapes) and on the basis of foil (wrap in cling film, so that it will be easier to pull it out later). In both versions, we make the base 8-10 mm smaller than the sketch and try to fit the base as closely as possible to the sketch.

We build up the blinded base with clay (with gradual baking for 15 minutes and put in a cold oven) or with plastic to the desired proportions. Do not forget to constantly attach the blank to the sketch and check for symmetry. Of course, we rub it with sandpaper until smooth. In the lower part of the body, you need to make round notches for the hip joints. The same should be done for the coat hanger, only smaller. In the same way, we make blanks for legs and arms.

This is how the head turns out. There is a lot of work here - you need to gradually come up with the desired facial expression. The phased sculpting can be mastered with the help of albums for sculpting people.

When the torso and head are relatively ready, proceed to the hinges. We need such a set.

You can simply roll them to the desired size (we put them in the recesses on the body), or you can use cling film. It is very important to mold the hinges into the correct spherical shape so that the pupa moves well.

While it dries, you can blind the hands and feet.

Now we proceed to the next stage. We need to cut the torso with a nail file like this and draw out the foil or foam.

It will turn out.

Now carefully cut out the upper part until the cut is smooth and reduce the inner part in thickness so that it can be put on the upper part.

We also cut the legs and arms at the places of the supposed fold. We clean out the foil.

As you can see, the upper legs and arms are already glued in. We apply the necessary hinges and glue them to the bottom of the plastic, tighten the necessary shapes, clean them. We clean the upper part and rub in a semicircular shape so that the hinges go well.

We also make legs. With pasted balls it turns out like this.

But you can make not a ball in the knee, but a hinge. This is how it looks.

If we do it with balls, then before inserting them into the legs, you need to cut holes in the hinges with a drill. Like this.

Preparing feet and hands for assembly. To do this, we saw through the holes with a nail file and insert the hooks.

So we prepare the head.

Provided that you like all the shapes, everything is polished and smooth, we are preparing for the first assembly. To do this, we type the rubber bands as follows.

This is an arm attachment. The elastic is held from top to bottom and clings to the hook of the wrist.

The next elastic is for joining the head and legs. Also, using a homemade crochet hook, we stretch the elastic to the feet.

We try to see if our creation is worth it, if all the details are in place, if it doesn't rub anything.

Decorating and artistic transformation

Now we disassemble, cover with pink pastel, tint the body and face. And we collect again. Next, we make hair, paint, dress!

Created in the image and likeness of man. Ball-jointed dolls are an art, not a simple production of moving parts.

Little people can be made from plastic, porcelain, and even fabric. Read how to make a ball-jointed doll with your own hands.

Someone considers Ancient Greece to be the birthplace of art, others fully support the idea of the development of Japanese anime and the influence of artistic creativity on the creation of BJD toys.

A ball-jointed doll is a model that resembles a human in appearance and has movable joints.

It is important thanks to the special details that the puppet figure comes to life, it can be seated or put in any position.

Such models are usually made of solidifying plastic, there are porcelain, polyurethane and even textiles. Any appearance can be given to the doll.

Private firms or entrepreneurs who are engaged in articulated art can recreate the appearance of a client in a doll, give the same body type, skin color and style of clothing.

The handmade doll will be individual and unique. Large firms can print done on a 3D printer.

Advice! The little man "draws" an image to the smallest detail: blush, eyelashes, freckles and moles.

To revive the doll, the girl is sculpted with a small tummy, natural-shaped breasts and other imperfect, but natural inaccuracies of the figure.

Everything for beginners: Barbie textile pattern and making

At home, you can easily create a custom-made girlfriend for your little daughter or for interior decoration. But it will take a whole day to make it.

Collect from Craft Bins:

Fabrics: cotton fabrics, knitwear.
Filling: cotton wool or synthetic winterizer.
Sewing kit: threads, needles of different sizes and colors.
Wooden buttons, beads, washers, discs and other accessories.

The textile version of the Barbie doll does not require additional hooks and elastic bands; additional stitches can be made in places of joint mobility.

The fabric version will not stand if it is poorly stuffed, but if it is tightly filled, the arms and legs will not bend.

When all the materials are collected, follow the step-by-step instructions:

The fabric layer should be in two layers. According to the pattern for beginners, the following parts need to be sewn in separate parts: torso, legs, arms and head.
Sew the knit piece from the wrong side, similarly create a cotton mockup. Leave a small hole to turn the fabric over your face.
Fill the knitted part tightly with padding polyester. Similarly create 2 legs and arms without covering the cotton filling hole.
Now seal the body parts with a cotton pillowcase. Thread each part into a shell made of natural material.
Join the doll together with a seam or blind stitch. On your knees, elbows, sew a few stitches on a typewriter. Now the limbs bend in different directions like a classic ball-jointed doll.
Like a Barbie doll, you can sew on the fabric chest of a beauty to complete the look. Attach the head, draw the eyes, mouth and nose.
Create a real make-up with make-up: apply eye shadow, blush and brows. You can use simple colored pencils.
There is a second option - a built-in mechanism. When sewing, hinges and discs are inserted into the legs and arms. Wooden beads are inserted between the knee padding as movable joints.

You can start the most enjoyable - creating a style and tailoring.

Unleash your imagination and turn a small semblance of a beautiful woman into a racehorse or stewardess. The doll will become an unusual interior decoration.

Advice! Some craftsmen insert disks into the torso, head and limbs so that the doll can not only sit, but also stand.

How to mold a polymer clay doll with your own hands

You can make an unusual gift for a child from plasticine. But it is better to use plastic or polymer clay.

Craftsmen also use cold porcelain and clay. The choice of material depends on your ability to use it. The simplest option is polymer clay.

To mold a doll, you need materials of different colors. Use body dough to create your body.

In addition to the main material, the creator's arsenal should include: foil, scissors, working tweezers and similar tools.

Follow the step-by-step master class:

Determine the mobility of your doll. The hinges can only be installed in the elbows and knees, but in the full version - in the shoulders, elbows, hands on the hands, heel, knee and thigh on the legs.
Make a rough drawing with the location of the joints. It is at these points that the hinges will be.
To create a leg, there will be a joint between the heel and the main leg, and a stopper will also be needed in the knee area.
Thus, the lower limbs are created in three parts. Roll up pieces of foil of the required size, stick the blank with polymer.
Create both legs parallel to keep them symmetrical. Make hands according to this scheme.
Connect all the details, including the head, put the clay in the oven. Roasting time can vary from 2 to 15 minutes. Read the recommendations on the packaging carefully.

Such a doll can be a gift for the eldest daughter. It is better for small children not to play with the model, as the dried clay hardens, the ball-jointed doll is easy to break.

Create any fantasy figure, from chubby beauties to slender fashionistas.

Master class for making a ball-jointed anime doll

Japanese cartoons have taken the world by storm. You can create a toy from any materials, only the peculiarities of the beauty's appearance should be taken into account.

You can read the tips for creating an anime doll in the table:

Imagine and create unique dolls!

Useful video

The popularity of ball jointed dolls is easy to explain. After all, it reproduces an exact copy of a person, with all the anatomical features. The design, using hinges at the joints, makes them very flexible, and endows with the ability to take a variety of poses and even express mood.

Many people mistakenly believe that we owe the invention of ball-jointed dolls to countries such as Japan, Korea or China. Far from it. The first models made in a similar technique were known in ancient Rome, Egypt and Greece. Clay and wood served as the material for them, and they were collected with the help of ropes and pegs.

Nowadays, the value of these dolls is not only in the fact that they look like people, but also in their personality. And for this it is not necessary to do it yourself. It is enough to buy even a serial one, and due to the properties of the material from which it is made, change its appearance.

Japanese ball jointed doll

Although it was not the Japanese who invented and created the first toy on hinges, it still owes its revival to this country. The Japanese company Volks was the first to offer a model that the owner can create for himself, feeling himself in the role of Pygmalion playing his Galatea. I also call them Super Dollfie, or BJD for short.

Despite its diversity, BJD still has certain standards. They are in proportion and in size. Since only due to the large size, it is possible to create a model with full detail of all anatomical features.

The very first BJDs had a standard size of 60 centimeters. Then the product began to grow. At first, up to 65, then up to 70 centimeters and one gets the impression that this is not the limit.

There are other categories of hinged toys, smaller ones - tiny and mini. Quite crumbs from 9 to 35 centimeters, somewhat resemble standard dolls and therefore are created with all the attributes inherent in them.

The average size is 35-45 centimeters, this is a compromise between quality, since you can already work with such a model, giving it individuality, and the price - it is cheaper. Well, everything above 45 centimeters is considered large.

The material also distinguishes Japanese BJDs from ordinary toys. They are not made of plastic, but polyurethane resins. This material is more pleasant to the touch and resembles porcelain. It is thanks to him that products can be modified, armed with sandpaper, a file and other cutting tools.

The process of creating such a product is rather laborious and expensive. In the beginning, the sculptor-designer makes all the details by hand. Then silicone blanks are created on them, in which parts of the body are molded. But such blanks do not last forever and can only be used to create a few prototypes, and then the process starts over.

Naturally, taking into account the cost of material, equipment, rent, salary costs and other factors, the cost of one product on hinges is off the charts. The price of one base model is $ 300-700.

But that's the cost of the new model. And due to the fact that they are usually produced in a limited edition, then getting to the secondary market, its price rises even more. And this is a great incentive to learn how to make articulated dolls with your own hands, even if not for sale, but for yourself.

DIY articulated dolls

Getting started, get used to the idea in advance that your doll is unlikely to be a masterpiece. This is still a long way off. But the fact that it will be bright, individual, with its own name and character, with its own history of creation is for sure.

In the process of creation, each person turns into a creator, so it is not surprising that the resulting product turns out to be animated. And, quite possibly, it will become a talisman of good luck. The main thing is, do not forget to all materials and tools, stock up on a good mood.

There are many technologies for creating such dolls. In order to decide which of them to work in, first select the material from which it will be created.

Material for jointed dolls is divided into types:

self-hardening such as papier-mâché and Efaplast;
baked - all types of plastic, polymer clay;
injection molding - porcelain and polyurethane.

The first two suit us. The injection molding method is already a factory one. The whole process of creation actually depends on what model will be - textile, made of papier-mâché, self-hardening clay or other material. For example, a textile jointed doll is sewn from a special milk or flesh-colored doll textile. And to create it, you will undoubtedly need a pattern.

There are many master classes on sewing textile articulated dolls on the Internet, and patterns in the required size are also given there.

If the product is made of solid material, then the pattern will be replaced by a diagram on which the model is drawn in profile and full face with all the maximum possible details. Naturally, the pattern and scheme of the textile and polyurethane ball-jointed doll is drawn in full size.

Master class on creating a ball-jointed plastic doll

Let our first doll be made of plastic for modeling. This material is sold in a specialist store. You will also need foil and cling film. Using the scheme, we make the frame of the base-body, arms, legs and head from film and foil.

This is done as follows:

First, we sculpt the parts necessary in size and contours from the foil. In order not to deviate from the diagram, constantly attach them to the drawing. This is necessary in order to maintain the desired dimensions and proportions. Then we wrap the parts with foil, and then we wrap the frame with a thin layer of plastic, 1-1.5 mm thick. Next, using the instructions, we bake the plastic in the oven;
After the parts are baked, using our knowledge of anatomy, using sandpaper or a nail file, we begin to grind the parts, giving them the necessary depressions and bumps. Where, in your opinion, there is not enough plastic, we are building it up. Just remember, after each build-up of plastic, the product must be sent to the oven for hardening. This is both creative and routine work;
After the parts are processed, the torso, arms and legs are cut, and the frame is carefully removed from them. And in its place are flexible tubes or rubber cords. Hands and feet are cut in one place, where a person's joints are fastened - elbow and knee;
In their place, hinges are molded to fit. You also need to make blanks for palms, fingers and feet. Everything is tried on to the legs and arms, filed and rubbed until, in your opinion, it fits perfectly together;
Loops or metal hooks are inserted into the ankle area, as well as the joints of the forearm, palm and neck. The whole model is assembled on two rubber cords. They go through the whole body. One extends from one ankle to the neck and then to the other ankle. And the second cord runs from one wrist across the shoulders to the other. Take into account the degree of tension on the cord so that the product does not come out loose or pinched. Also, feet, palms and head are attached to their hooks on an elastic band;
Further polishing and decoration work begins. "Leather" is polished with a soft cloth to perfect smoothness, then primed and painted over with acrylic. A small indentation is made on the head for the hair. Then the bulges on the body and face are covered with crushed pink pastel, everything is fixed with varnish;
In continuation of work on the design, you need to paint your face, attach hair and glue or draw cilia. Any image can serve as a prototype for a face. It might be a famous actress or singer, or it might just be a face you like.

About doll hinges

About hinges as structural elements of a theatrical puppet

Reflecting on the topic, for a long time I could not understand what could become its logical core. The answer was found in the question itself - “rod”, the very rod, which is the axis of rotation in mechanics, the connecting rod in the structures of hinges and mechanisms.

At first glance, I am showing trifling things, one might say, from the category of little tricks. Don't be fooled. Small, not small, and without them you won't go far in puppetry, I know from myself. Young and impudent, I hear the advice of a seasoned old man and think, what's so cunning, I myself would have thought of this, and that he is an old man who goes wherever they ask him. If you think the same of me today, it will be a pleasure for me to smile with you.

Beautiful and incomprehensible words, "theatrical puppet constructor"! What is it in the theater, what does he do? You can't explain it right away. Let's start with a little thing, with a simple movable connection of two elements of the doll.

Even a simple design of a flat paper doll, and they are used not only in working with children, can puzzle a beginner in this business. How to make the connection of parts easy to move?

Don't be surprised, but I found this compound in the patent library. Americans manage to cut money from anything. Cardboard parts of a flat puppet doll are cut out on machine tools, they are supplied with “pivots” of hinges, for assembly at home (“do it yourself” toy).

Sometimes a thick fishing line with melted candle or a soldering iron flattened ends is enough. And the durable plastic rod is also suitable for more serious parts made of plywood and wood. The ends are also melted with a soldering iron.

Flat movable dolls can be very effective if you pay attention to their decoration (painting, invoicing, collage). Paper is not the best material, try thin wood or foam plates (making dolls bigger), leather, etc.

I once used plastic counting sticks and buttons with large caps to make hinges. I cut the stick to size, and hammered the buttons into the holes of these sticks.

Do not neglect ordinary buttons and tailor's buttons for a swivel connection. They are very decorative: wooden, metal, cylindrical.

Self-saboy, industrial rivets for clothes, eyelets, etc. are used.

The axis of the hinge is in the form of a nail with a head driven into the part. There is no simpler hinge.

Wooden “pencils” with caps are tightly inserted into the hole from both sides. We get a gurney on wheels.

When the axle does not have a head, studs or wedges are used.

It is clear that you cannot achieve much with pieces of paper and toys; sooner or later you will grab onto soft printed forms. The doll will be able to freely jerk its legs-arms, dangle its head on the sides, if you shake it well.

I will not repeat the obvious things, I will just remind you of the detachable connections of such dolls, and they are not necessarily toys, this technology is actively used in the theater. Take the same parquet doll, her body. Of course, I'm talking about small dolls, you won't run around the stage with a mattress.

I like detachable connections, they themselves look soundly and effectively if you choose the right elements (carabiners, straps, thick colored cords), and most importantly, they allow you to assemble different dolls on the stage from the same parts. Evaluate the advice, drape the same doll in different ways, attach paper masks to them ...

I will not draw anything here, everything is clear. It's time to move on to the pieces of wood.

There are sea varieties of hinges, but most of them differ from each other in manufacturing technology. The theater requires reliability and ease of manufacture, the ability to quickly repair or replace structural parts.

Even in such primitive hinges, your thought must be present. Two sticks on a rawhide strap or on a cord. A belt or cord, their thickness, the width of the gap between the sticks, the shape of the ends of the sticks with the belt, these issues need to be solved in each case in different ways. If the belt is glued with nails, then this is one hinge, if the ends of the belt rotate freely in the grooves of the tree (on nails), this is another hinge. Whether limiting the range of motion or leaving it as it is depends on where the hinge is applied. Elbows, knees with restraints, the head can and freely work.

One of the easiest and most reliable ways to connect moving parts of a doll. Ring hooks of the right size are easy to make yourself from wire, but it is easier to buy screws with rings in showrooms that sell frames. The neck of the head and shoulders of the puppets, practically all joints of parquet dolls and much more, are interlocked with such hooks.

Metal hinges can often be replaced with a double-folded strap that is nailed to the tree with studs. This loop does not clang with metal.

The hinge hinge is well known to all, as apartment doors or casements of windows and wardrobes are known. Movable binding of one part to another along the line of the axis of rotation is constantly required in the design of doll mechanics. Think of the work of the jaw on the loop, the elbows of the hands or the knees of the legs.

Structurally, such hinges are made in various ways. The most demanded is the coil spring and the axle paired with it.

There are many devices for obtaining springs from wire.

Let us dwell on the most antediluvian, which does not require such adaptations.

In a vise, we clamp a rod of a suitable diameter (I use a set of drills of different diameters for this choice) with the end of the wire as shown in the figure. Holding the end of the rod with your hand, we wind the spring of the required length coil by coil.

For a free hinge-hinge, a copper wire is taken, and for a tight hinge, we take a springy steel wire. If a tighter movement of the hinge is required, turn the ends of its spring in opposite directions before attaching to the part (the spring is slightly compressed in diameter, grasping the axle).

Such hinges differ in many ways of installing an axis in them.

The wire steel axle is stapled into the drilled holes. A simple and reliable way to manufacture hinge pins.

Studs with a semicircular cross-section bent with a ring in the center are very convenient as a hinge axis. They are quickly and easily mounted on a hinge with round-nose pliers, and just as easily removed when repairing a doll.

I want to illustrate the topic of hinges on the construction of a typical market puppet (Germany). Everything here is extremely unified, which allows you to launch the production of a doll on a stream. The elements of the hinge plates with holes for the axle-pins are cut out of sheet vinyl plastic with a thickness of 1.5 - 2 mm. Legs and arms from wooden round timber, foam is laid on the frame of the body. It is clear that you can always vary the proportions of the doll. The size is within 50 cm. A very decent suit is sewn, wigs are laid in the finished form of the doll and painting is done.

Dolls go in batches with characters to a certain performance. Orders with a clear division of labor are distributed at different points. Structural blanks are made by some workshops, assembly in others, sewing work is given to homeworkers, etc. You can learn from the Germans "small" entrepreneurship. I am silent about the sale of products, I do not understand anything about it.

Forgot to say, wagu for this type of doll can be found in the diary (German).

Puppet toy. From the point of view of technology, an extremely rational design. Everything is subject to obtaining the minimum cost. It can be seen that the parts are fastened with a textile stocking using a stippler. The hinges are quite distinctive. The construction will be hidden by a plowing suit.

A small example from the field of technology. The bar is given the desired profile, so that later on to cut many of the same parts of the doll's pelvis from it. Cheap and cheerful!

Popular, especially in packaged dolls, are no less simple "hinge" in the form of a rope. As cheap and cheerful as a stocking on a piece of wood. Under a loose suit, such simplifications are acceptable.

A typical vaga for children. Arms and legs are suspended from a removable front rail.

Brass ballpoint pens are used in dolls' pivot joints. Axles are made of them, or they are tightly driven into the hole for the axle as a strengthening of the walls from wear.

Much depends on the profile of the wooden parts of the hinge, on which the degree of mobility and the appearance of the doll's structure depend.

In this case, the hinge has no special limitation of mobility, a free “door hinge”. When the doll is in the suit bag, there is no point in wasting time on the aesthetics of the pieces of wood.

By rounding the corners of the hinge, we reduce the gaps between the parts.

A hinge with limited range of motion (elbows, knees) requires special attention during manufacture. It takes a lot of time to adjust the profile of the parts to each other.

If the design of the doll is not hidden by the costume and is visible to the audience, you have to transform it into a "sculpture", you need to worry about the appearance of the hinges. The most dirty job, time consuming and long.

Easy-to-use hinge. It is relatively simple to make and is useful in the waist of dolls, prevents their clothes from wrinkling in the slit when bending.

If the door hinge allows the movement of parts around the axis connecting them, then the ball joint allows you to smoothly change the inclination of the axis of rotation of the parts in all directions. For its unique mobility, it turned out to be the most popular among the designers of theatrical puppets and, especially, among the designers of animation dolls.

Traditional artisanal technology prefers to make wooden hinges on lathes. The word "handicraft" in this case is used as a respectful attitude to the traditions of folk crafts.

We know how the ball joint works, but we don't yet know its design. What does it mean. This means that the hinge has to be adapted to the specific conditions.

A hinge concept is shown.

It remains for the designer to decide on the type of spring, to think over the ways of attaching its ends, in other words, to adapt its shape to the requirements of his doll.

Obviously, the spherical piece must be attracted to the center of the ball piece. We screw in a screw with a ring for attaching the spring to the center of the ball.

If this is a head with a nose, then look at the principle of the ball joint.

Ball truncated on both sides (rectangle in plan). This was the body of the Iron Woodsman in the belt.

We have to look for a constructive solution every time a new one.

The connection point of the two strands is motionless, as if the spring was not tensioned.

In a gapit with a ball joint, the parts are tightened with a rawhide belt. Hence the desire to leave a hole in the cane, which, in principle, is not needed. Take a look at the following design with a ring screw in the center of the ball.

A more rational solution.

Ball joints for cartoon dolls.

The axis of rotation can always be constructively converted into points of rotation.

A little trick goodbye.

The plastic ring from the fishing rig is split in half (a cone-shaped pin is driven into the hole) and the halves are screwed with a wire to the inner surface of the papier-mâché of the doll's head. Unlike copper rings with micro-scratches, through which mechanical lines are usually pulled, plastic rings do not fray the line during operation.

The details of the mechanics of the head should be covered on a separate page.