Better oil floor polish. Oil or varnish for parquet boards and parquet, whichever is better. Ultra-matte hard wax oil surface

25.09.2019

Choosing the right product depends on the properties you want your floor covering and how much time you are willing to spend on caring for it.

Pros and cons of different coatings

First, let's define what we are dealing with.

Butter for covering floorboards (with or without additives) is a natural composition, usually based on one basic component, for example drying oil or linseed oil. It penetrates into the pores of the wood and impregnates several upper layers, protecting it from moisture, but without creating a vapor barrier.

Varnish- a whole group of artificially created coatings, very different in composition and properties. Of the common features of all varieties, one can name a hard film that they form after drying; on the one hand, it is more resistant to scratches, on the other hand, those scratches and abrasions that do appear become very noticeable.

Wax for parquet floors it is created on the basis of natural beeswax and performs primarily a moisture-protective function, giving the wood hydrophobic properties. It can be used both as part of an oil (for example, oil with hard wax), together with it (as a topcoat), or separately.

Now let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each type.


Butter	without creating a vapor barrier Environmentally friendly Allows the tree to "breathe" Preserves the natural beauty of wood Masks scratches and scuffs Does not crack when wood deforms	Requires gentle application and regular maintenance Emphasizes wood imperfections, if any
	Protects the tree well from moisture Eliminates wood imperfections A varnished surface does not get dirty as quickly as an oiled one	Vapor insulates the tree and does not allow it to "breathe" Any scratches on the varnished surface are very noticeable Cracks in any floor deformation Not always environmentally friendly; requires compliance with safety precautions when applied Do-it-yourself lacquered floor restoration is extremely difficult
Wax	Protects the tree well from moisture Gives the surface a beautiful matte sheen	Requires periodic refurbishment and regular maintenance Makes the floor slippery

Thus, you will have to choose between excellent moisture protection, beauty and labor-consuming care and a non-"breathable", but not very demanding composition. For some places, some properties are important, for others, others. Let's figure out where varnish is optimal, and where is oil or wax. After that, it will become clear how to make a choice.

Applying oil, varnish or wax

For floors in living quarters, which are easy to care for daily and weekly, you can safely choose oils, including oils with wax (see below for different types of oils). Such floors are mostly cleaned dry, sometimes, if necessary, washed with clean water or water with liquid soap based on vegetable oils; it is advisable to polish the floors after washing. Wax can also be used here, either alone or as a topcoat.

If a “warm floor” system is installed in the house, oil is generally irreplaceable, since, unlike varnish, it does not crack when warmed wood deforms.

Floors in corridors, hallways, halls can be treated with both oil and varnish. On the one hand, scuffs and scratches are not so noticeable on the oil, which is generally a common problem in these rooms, on the other, these rooms already require more careful maintenance. The same can be said about terraces; in addition to increased abrasion, there is also increased humidity.

For floors in the baths oil is also optimal - it allows the wood to "breathe", which means it does not accumulate moisture and does not rot.
The varnish is good where only functionality is needed from it, and the owners do not have much time to care for the coating, for example in change houses, outbuildings, summer kitchens and outdoor toilets.

Different types of varnishes, oils and waxes

Now it became clearer where and what we will use. It remains to figure out which type of selected coating is most suitable.

Lucky

One-component water-borne varnishes dry quickly and adhere well to wood. True, they have a relatively short service life: 2-3 years.
Two-component water-borne varnishes have the same qualities as the previous type, but last about ten years even with intense abrasion. Naturally, this line of products is much more expensive.
Alkyd varnish better than other types of varnish, withstands deformation of wood (for example, under the influence of heating and cooling). It nicely emphasizes the natural structure of the tree.
Anhydrous polyurethane varnish after drying, very resistant to abrasion.

Oils

Pure oils (up to 99% natural) environmentally friendly, dry quickly, are consumed in relatively small quantities compared to oils that contain additives (see below).
Resin-added oils have the best adhesion to the floor and require the least frequent renovation.
Oils with added wax after drying, they give a beautiful matte shade.

Wax

Parquet wax on a natural basis, it is used both separately and in combination with oils.
Oil wax Is a translucent substance of several different shades, which, after drying, is recommended to be coated with a colorless oil.

There is, perhaps, no universal composition, but you can always choose the ideal one for a particular case, and the site will always help you make the right choice.

For various reasons, it may be necessary to replace one protective composition with another after their application or after some time of operation of an already treated surface. The desire or need to treat the surface with Oil and wax, which was previously coated with varnish or to apply a harder and more wear-resistant varnish instead of oil and wax to the surface may be required due to the initially incorrectly selected protective coating for a particular surface of the house or bath, or due to an error in the selection of a protective composition by the processor. And also if the customer overestimated the protective characteristics of the composition he had chosen, made mistakes during the operation of the treated surface as a result of the irregular renewal of the applied protective topcoat or in cases where there is a need to restore damaged areas of wood, which is possible only by impregnation of a different class.

watchapplying Oil and Wax to Varnish.

The choice between varnish, paint, wood oil and wood wax is best done right away. This will avoid additional costs and some difficulties that may arise when changing the protective coating of different types.
.
In order to apply oil or wax to a wooden surface previously treated with varnish or paint, the varnish and paint will have to be COMPLETELY removed. These requirements will have to be met, since through a hard film of varnish or an oil film, even if it is cracked and partially, it will be impossible to evenly soak and correctly apply oil for wood, and even more so thick wax. The only thing that makes the task easier is that the varnish lies directly on the surface of the wood and can be quite easily cleared with a looping machine, grinder, grinding a log or bar or scraping a floorboard or parquet. As soon as the layer of varnish or paint is removed from the wood, oil for wood and log wood and beams can be applied to the wood surface with wood wax or hard wax mastic.

If for some reason you decide to apply a protective layer of varnish on a wooden surface that has been previously treated with oil or wax, then the possible result will depend on:

The type of oil or wax previously applied to the surface
The operating time of the oil-treated surface,
The number of oil layers during surface treatment,
How many times has there been a mandatory renewal of the protective layer,
The time that has passed since the last update of the protective layer with oil or wax.

Wax and wood oil penetrates deep enough into the structure of wood capillaries and it is usually very difficult to completely remove it, as it is most often recommended by many manufacturers, including manufacturers of varnishes and paints.
Therefore, we can assume that you will have two ways of a possible solution to the task:

If the oil or wax layer is dense enough, then you can try to cycle the surface with a scraper or grind it with a grinder with abrasive nozzles with different grains. Looping and grinding can occur to a depth of 2 mm. Further, it is recommended to treat the cleaned, sanded or scrubbed wood primer. The primer will allow you to bind oil residues that have penetrated into the wood more than 2 mm. As a primer, you can use impregnating primers that are recommended by the varnish manufacturer or which you have chosen.
You can try to use a universal one that quickly polymerizes, i.e. will thicken and harden the plastic residues of oil that have penetrated and are deep in the capillaries of the treated wood.

We recommend that you carefully choose a protective coating, depending on the conditions of its use and purpose, and do not forget to periodically perform the recommended renewal of the protective layer of your chosen protective impregnation.

Learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of different impregnations for floor treatment on individual pages of our site by clicking on the links at the bottom of this page or by choosing a ready-made answer to your question in the "" or "" section in the header of the site. If you have any difficulties in the selection of the necessary impregnations, call the phones indicated on the website and get a round-the-clock FREE consultation from our specialists.

LEARN DETAILS all about finishing coatings, wood oil, wax, floor varnish, paint and glaze on wood:

← impregnation

← "

← , Oil for wood, Oil for furniture, Furniture oil, Impregnation with linseed oil

← ... Furniture wax. Furniture wax. Liquid wax and Hard wax for wood. Wax mastic.

← , Varnish for a log house from a log and a bar, Varnish for a floor, Varnish for a parquet, Paint for a tree. Azure.

← . Colored oil wax. How to tint wood oil. Oil tinting with pigment.

The heated debate about what is best for parquet: varnish or oil does not subside. Adherents of oil coatings refer to the environmental friendliness of the product, the possibility of local restoration, but those behind the varnishing argue that oil mixtures quickly lose their appearance. At the same time, matte varnishes are no worse aesthetically, but they win in practicality. But it is better to choose a floor covering based on your own preferences, the ability to care for parquet, visual effects and other nuances. Today there are 4 variants of parquet coating: varnish, oil with hard waxes, without waxes and with soft waxes.

Parquet varnish

To understand the benefits, definitions should be given according to several indicators:

The principle of protection is based on the absorption of the first layer into the wood and in the formation of a protective film of each of the subsequent layers. You can apply a couple of strokes of varnish, but still get a durable, wear-resistant finish, but use a two-component, water-based polyurethane varnish.

Important! In case of high permeability, a layer of varnish can be applied in 6 or more layers.

Visual properties are selected depending on preference: matting agents give a different reflective effect and degree of gloss: from glossy to ultramarine.
Tactility is an important point. Even when the composition is completely dull, varnishing creates a certain effect. Choose for yourself whether you like to walk barefoot on the varnish film that covers the parquet, or you want to feel the natural wood under your feet.
The environmental friendliness of the composition depends on the presence and volume of solvents. If these are water-based mixtures, then the coating is uniquely clean. When combined with chemical solvents, the varnish becomes unsafe not only during operation, but also for several more months due to the evaporation of harmful substances.
Care and cleaning. Like any professional parquet mix, varnish requires special tools. Delicate, without abrasive substances, supplementing the protection with a special strengthening composition - such means will come in handy. It is important to remember that when the varnish is abraded, it will not be possible to carry out a local restoration; you will have to remove all the varnish and completely overlap the layer on the parquet.

Substrate varnishing implies easy maintenance or is characterized by the preference of the client, who prefers to see a smooth and aesthetic level floor. It should be noted that varnishing does not require a special tool, a roller or brush is enough. But minimal experience is required. Therefore, if the user has no idea how to varnish the floor, it is better to contact those who do it professionally.

Hard wax parquet oil

Compared to varnish, the composition has few differences, but they should also be disassembled:

The coating imitates “bare wood” after drying, retaining protective properties comparable to varnish. In fact, this is varnishing, but with the content of oil and wax components. After drying, the protective layer is practically indistinguishable from the varnishing one by its characteristics.
Visually, it represents thin layers, 2 in number, and not 3-4, like varnishing, due to which a matte base that imitates a natural wood mass is obtained, with the finest oil impregnation. The imitation is so perfect that it gives the impression of open pores, although in reality the pores of the wood are reliably clogged with wax oil.
The tactility is also excellent. You might think that you are walking barefoot on natural wood, feeling the whole structure of the dies, but the parquet is reliably protected with a film.
Environmental friendliness. A surprise awaits the user here: many manufacturers are actively promoting their products, relying on wax compounds. But it is not always the case. Truth: all solvents and chemical components in terms of their content fit into the norms adopted by the standards of sanitary and hygienic norms.
Ease of care is not threatened here. You will have to buy products that are compatible with the brand of protection, giving additional qualities after drying. Local restoration is impossible, in case of wear of the layers, it will be necessary to carry out a complete regrinding and recoating, as in the case of varnish.

Such a tool is chosen by users who are not ready to thoroughly care for the parquet, but at the same time want to get the effect of a floor with a natural covering. A roller or professional brush is used to apply the composition. At the same time, oil with hard wax does not require polishing, so you can carry out the procedure yourself, of course, with at least minimal experience.

Soft wax oil

This tool is for those who love their parquet, are ready to take care of it as thoroughly as possible and spare no expense. And for valuable species of wood, this composition is the most acceptable due to the following qualities:

Deep impregnation... Being a coating that does not form a surface film, the composition is literally soaked into the upper layers of the wood, and the wax clogs the pores, firmly solidifying in them. Today the best example of such a composition is Berger 100PrOil. This is a parquet flooring that requires constant maintenance. Without procedures, the layer will quickly lose its appearance and meaning. Unlike varnishing, a composition with soft wax quickly attracts dirt and requires timely cleaning of the parquet and re-treatment of the base. The process is constant, but you can use wood dice for a very long time without regrinding, while the coating can withstand rather heavy loads.
Visual effect magnificent is an all-natural wood with an elegant matte sheen.
With tactile contact the warmth of the wood is preserved, the entire structure is visible. But from time to time, the effect of wet wax and oil adhesion will be created, which the user does not always like.
Environmentally friendly material it is clean, odorless and very comfortable for constant use.
Cleaning and maintenance is required daily. A special soap composition is used, added to the water, and you can use a rag or a single disc machine. After cleaning, a soft wax oil is applied to the base, the composition dries up and the floor is ready for use again.

Important! The use of the mixture allows you to make both local renovations of the parquet, you can also completely remove the entire layer and clean the base.

Wear resistance... This composition is most often used in rooms with high traffic, where it is not possible to carry out frequent resurfacing of the floor, but it is necessary to keep the parquet in perfect condition as long as possible.

Professional tools are used for application: a floor polisher, a single-disc machine with a white pad, they are also used for cleaning. The wax mixture is applied in two layers with a daily interval.

Natural parquet oil without wax

Perhaps one of the most common formulations, after varnishing. It has a lot of advantages and is characterized by the following qualities:

Deep impregnation... According to its principle of protection, it is a whitish or slightly tinted coating with open wood pores. The effect is achieved through the penetration of oil into the upper layers of the floor, while the excess mixture must be removed immediately after saturation of the parquet.
Visual effect natural wood with a matte shade when the pores are open. Both colorless oil and toned in a certain shade are used.

Important! Color tints can be mixed to create new floor colors.

Tactile characteristics ideal: contact with the natural warmth of the wood without sticking.
Environmentally friendly 100%. The oil, consisting only of natural components, does not emit harmful vapors and has all the properties of a hypoallergenic product.
Cleaning is required constantly. Wet cleaning by means of mild soap compositions is acceptable, and it is better to take natural substances specially offered by manufacturers.

The process of using a base with such an impregnation implies some washing out of the oil from the tree, so you will have to renew the protective layer. Unlike varnish, wood will immediately "show" the lack of oil mixture by tarnishing and worn areas. Therefore, it is better not to run the floors and carry out the impregnation procedure locally. With all its advantages and naturalness, wax-free oil is considered one of the most difficult to care for. It can be used both in high traffic areas and at home. The frequency of care in the first case will be higher, but the whole procedure will not change. The main advantage of the composition is the extension of the service life of the parquet. It is better to apply it with a spatula, but remove the excess with a polisher with a white pad; in local areas, you can remove excess oil with a highly absorbent cloth.

Finally

When choosing parquet compounds, pay attention to the advice of professionals when choosing an oil is much better than varnishing.

Starting a conversation about the types of protective coatings for parquet flooring, I want to ask you a question with which I usually begin all practical seminars in VERNISSAGE, when we talk about varnishes, oils or parquet care products. "Which is better: varnish or oil?"

LACQUER OR OIL - WHAT IS BETTER?

CLIENT QUESTION: What is better for parquet: varnish or oil?
ANSWER: Here, as a rule, a heated debate begins. Some immediately argue that oil, referring to environmental friendliness and the possibility of local restoration, others - that varnishes, operating by the fact that the oil quickly loses its appearance, to which the former immediately retort that the oil looks more dignified and generally more modern, and the latter, after that ultra-matt varnishes also do not shine, creating the illusion of bare wood, but at the same time are more practical to use. And then a dispute, a dispute, a dispute ...
And only a few, whether more balanced, or more experienced, will say: “Who is our client? What is the functional purpose of the premises? Is he ready to take care of the parquet or, on the contrary, should he be offered a problem-free coating option from this point of view? " And just at this moment I propose to consider all the currently existing types of protection for wooden surfaces and do it from different aspects. The principle of protection, visual properties, tactile characteristics, environmental friendliness, cleaning and care, a portrait of a consumer, a tool for application - only by analyzing each component in detail, we will understand where the truth is in each individual case.

So, today there are 4 most popular principles for protecting parquet floors: varnish, oil with hard wax, oil with soft wax, oil without wax. Let's consider each type in more detail.

Parquet varnish

Parquet covered with Berger Aqua-Seal 2KPU glossy two-component varnish

Parquet under matt two-component lacquer Berger Aqua-Seal 2KPU

Hard wax parquet oil

Parquet floor with Berger Classic Hard Oil

Ultra-matte hard wax oil surface

Visual properties: What is the profanation? The fact that it is applied in 2 layers (and not 3-4, like varnishes) and these layers are very thin. The result is a matte surface that imitates uncoated wood, like a natural oil coating, the optics of open pores (in fact, they are closed).
Tactile characteristics: despite the lack of gloss, the presence of a protective film means that on contact with a surface covered with oil and hard wax, you can feel the structure of the wood and the pores of the wood, but between you and the wood there is a full-fledged barrier - the film coating.
Environmental friendliness.

ATTENTION! It should be understood here that when selling oils with hard wax, many manufacturers are actively operating on the fact that this is an environmentally friendly material. This is not true! The Berger-Seidle line also contains Berger Classic Hard Oil (and we love it very much, as one of the most problem-free in terms of ease of application and the resulting optical effect), but we do not claim that it is 100% environmentally friendly. Simply, the solvents contained in it fit into European and Russian environmental requirements, and the maximum permissible concentration of harmful substances in the air meets sanitary and hygienic standards.

Cleaning and maintenance: gentle cleaning and maintenance is carried out using compatible polishes (for example, Berger Aqua-Satin Polish), which delicately clean the surface during washing without disturbing it, and also form additional waxy films on the surface when dried. For general maintenance of oiled parquet with hard wax, use a care wax (eg Berger Fitpolish), which is applied by hand with a soft cloth and, after drying, is polished over the surface. However, despite the possibility of periodic maintenance to replenish the worn-out wax on the surface in case of complete wear to bare wood, a complete re-grinding of the room is necessary, just as with the varnish layer.

Consumer portrait: a person who wants to get the optical effect of a natural wood with open pores, but is not ready to care for parquet.

Application tool: oil with hard wax is applied in 2 layers (when working with highly absorbent rocks - 3 layers) with a professional roller or brush and DOES NOT REQUIRE polishing with a disc machine.

Soft wax oil

Room with high traffic under oil with soft wax Berger Classic 100Pro Oil

Principle of protection: in fact, the term "Oil with soft wax" has not been used before and was introduced by me in seminars to better understand the method of protection and the difference between oil and hard wax. So, oil with soft wax (Berger 100ProOil, by the way, I don't know any other analogs!) Is a coating that does not form a film on the surface of the parquet. When applied, the oil saturates the upper layers of the wood, and the wax hardens in the pores, closing them. A coating that requires constant cleaning and maintenance! Without systematic maintenance of the floor, the appearance quickly deteriorates and simply loses its meaning.

During operation, dirt adheres to the soft wax, after which, as necessary (determined by visual inspection and assessment of the surface condition), it is cleaned and removed together with wax and the surface is re-treated with oil and soft wax. This process is constant, but it makes it possible for a disproportionately longer time than film coatings (varnish or oil with hard wax) to use parquet with heavy loads without regrinding and restricting the passage of premises.

Visual properties: matt surface of natural wood.

Matt surface of the parquet covered with oil and soft wax

Natural parquet oil without wax

Naturally oiled parquet floor

Protection principle: a colorless or tinted open-pore wood coating that does not form a film, protects the wood from the inside by penetrating into the upper layers of the dies (Berger Classic Base Oil). After saturation of the parquet, excess oil must be completely removed using a white pad (when applied with a disc machine) or a highly absorbent cloth (eg flannel, when applied by hand).
Visual properties: matt surface of natural wood with open pores (the only one of all the above open pore surfaces). For the solution of design colors it is produced in colorless and tinted versions (33 base colors of Berger Classic Base Oil Color and the possibility of mixing them with each other allow you to achieve any desired shade).

Natural oil shades palette Berger Classic Base Oil

And in conclusion of all of the above, I hope that after carefully reading this material, to the question with which this article began - What is still better: varnish or oil? - You will answer in the only correct way: It depends on whom!

P.S. You ask: What is covered with parquet in my house? The answer is: a two-component matt varnish. Why? Of course, I like natural wood without a film, but I am definitely not ready to take care of the parquet, so a few years ago I chose the most problem-free coating for domestic premises (although the most expensive, it is worth it). But the next time when sanding (though it is not clear how soon it will come, because the parquet still has its original appearance), I will definitely cover it with oil and hard wax, succumbing to self-deception. I will have an absolutely matte surface of the parquet, imitation of uncoated wood, despite the fact that it, like varnish, does not need to be constantly looked after. And you choose with your heart, common sense and be honest with yourself. Good luck!

Wood is considered the first building material that people began to actively use in their life. In addition to natural origin, it has a solid set of benefits. This ensures the high popularity and demand for wooden products and structures. At the same time, this material still has one, but a significant drawback: it needs protection from moisture. For this purpose, not only wood sealants are used, but also acrylic-based oils and varnishes. They differ in characteristics, composition and properties.

What is acrylic varnish

In general, acrylic paints and varnishes are made on the basis of acrylic polymers. They were first obtained in 1952 by specialists from the famous American company DuPont. The polymers were easy to color, did not react to the effects of water, acids, alkalis and ultraviolet radiation. These materials laid the foundation for the creation of a line of acrylic varnishes. In addition to polymers, they contain water and plasticizers. The latter are necessary to increase the elasticity of the varnish after drying. Such mixtures are one-component. Two-component varnishes additionally contain hardeners to increase the strength of the coating.

Types of acrylic varnishes

In appearance of the final coating, acrylic varnishes can be matte, glossy and semi-matt. In addition, they differ in purpose. On this basis, compositions are distinguished for the floor, for external and internal work. After drying, floor varnishes create an elastic yet durable film. It maintains its integrity in the event of deformation of parquet or boards, which was the result of a change in temperature. A feature of formulations for outdoor use is resistance to ultraviolet radiation, water, high and low temperatures. Varnishes for interior use have similar properties, with the exception of frost resistance.

Characteristics of acrylic varnishes

Externally, acrylic varnishes are odorless viscous liquid. The final protective coating is formed by the evaporation of water from it. The resulting elastic film protects surfaces from mechanical damage and UV radiation. In a liquid state, it is allowed to add up to 10% water to acrylic varnishes, but after drying they cease to be water-soluble. They can be applied with rollers or brushes. Additionally, it should be noted that such mixtures are characterized by high adhesion to the surface.

Application of acrylic varnishes

Acrylic varnishes have several uses:

Finishing wood flooring;

External and internal woodwork;

Processing of interior elements of premises (chairs, railings, decorative figurines, flights of stairs, bedside tables, etc.);

Decoupage works;

Reconstruction or renovation of old wooden buildings.

How does varnish work

After being applied to wood, when hardened, the varnishes form a strong and elastic film, without penetrating deep into the pores. Such compounds level the surface without absorbing into it, while they change the texture of the surface, making it resistant to abrasion.

Advantages and disadvantages of acrylic varnishes

Acrylic varnishes have a number of undeniable advantages. The main one is the absence of a harmful odor and toxic emissions. In addition to environmental friendliness, the following advantages of the compositions can be distinguished:

good antiseptic properties: acrylic varnishes protect wooden surfaces from mold or mildew;
fire safety provided by the water base;
resistance to mechanical stress and ultraviolet radiation;
high decorative effect.

When using acrylic varnishes, it is necessary to take into account their disadvantages. So, they are able to form a strong and elastic film on the surface of a tree, but at the same time completely deprive it of the ability to absorb and release moisture. For this reason, the ability of the material to maintain an optimal indoor climate is impaired. In addition, with changes in temperature and humidity, the tree begins to change its volume up or down. Despite the elastic properties of the lacquer film, deformation and peeling of its top layer become noticeable after a while, therefore restoration is required. In addition, damaged areas lose their protective properties and as a result, mold or mildew can form in them.

Wood processing oils and their types

Oil treatment is another effective and common way to protect wood. They can be used for outdoor and indoor use. For this purpose, various formulations are used on a natural basis. They are divided into three categories: non-drying, semi-drying and drying.

Non-drying ones are represented by almond, palm, olive and castor oils; semi-drying - cotton, rapeseed and sunflower; drying - hemp, linseed, perilla, walnut and poppy seeds. To increase wear resistance, special chemical components can be added to the oils.

The most popular are linseed and hemp formulations. The former contain a large amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids, harden faster and penetrate the wood best. Hemp oils are similar to flaxseed oils, but, in addition, they contain substances that perform antiseptic functions.

Any wood surface can be treated with oil compositions. In this case, the moisture content of the material should not exceed 14%. Outdoor work should be carried out on a sunny day, and indoor work with an air humidity of no more than 70%.

Characteristics of oils

Oils are thick liquids with a mild natural odor. Once applied, they harden under the influence of oxygen and sunlight, forming a protective coating. Such compositions successfully mask mechanical damage on the surface of the tree. The final finish retains its original texture and is pleasant to the touch. The oils give wood products an attractive matte sheen and provide protection against moisture, burnout, rotting and fungal attack. Such compounds need to be rubbed in, so they are applied with a special stiff brush, and the excess is removed with a rag.

Application of oils

Oils have a scope of application similar to varnishes. All used compounds can be divided into three large groups, differing in composition and properties:

Facade protection products are characterized by resistance to temperature extremes and external atmospheric influences;
Oils for walls, ceilings and interior items contain wax in small proportions to increase strength characteristics;
Floor compounds are highly resistant to abrasion. For this purpose, natural waxes are added to them. They increase the service life of the coating and make it dirt-repellent.

Additionally, it should be noted that all types of oils are UV resistant.

For processing precious woods, it is better to use a linseed-based wax.

How does oil work

Unlike varnishes, oils, after application, penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree. At the same time, they do not change the texture of the surface, but emphasize it. The surface remains embossed, acquiring a light matte sheen. After solidification, the oils do not form a protective film and have high vapor permeability. They tightly envelop the tree, increasing its strength characteristics, durability and wear resistance.

The oil hardens for the longest time on products made of abachi (exotic wood). Products made from it can begin to be used only two weeks after applying the composition.

Advantages and disadvantages of oils

Natural oils contain only environmentally friendly ingredients. They can be used fearlessly in premises for any purpose. In addition, such formulations have the following advantages:

well cleaned of dirt;
do not change the natural color of the wood;
do not exfoliate, deform or flake off during operation;
have high wear-resistant and water-repellent properties;
reliably close even the smallest pores of wood;
create a non-slip, shock-resistant shell;
allow air to pass through, which ensures ventilation and maintenance of the natural microclimate in the premises.

At the same time, some disadvantages of natural oils should be noted. So, they are somewhat more expensive than acrylic varnishes. In addition, after solidification, the oils contribute to the accumulation of dust, so the surfaces treated with them need regular maintenance.

conclusions

Oil protects wooden structures more reliably, but any coating will sooner or later require updating. The influence of the sun, weather conditions or mechanical influences inevitably makes itself felt. As a result, for example, characteristic abrasions appear on the floor, differing in shade in places of greatest stress. The facade fades noticeably, some parts of the wall become lighter than others. A similar picture is inside the premises. Thus, sections of walls protected by paintings look fresher and brighter than those nearby. In such cases, the difference between the two remedies is best shown.

If there is an oil coating, it is enough to treat only the damaged section of the wall, product or floor. The difference in shades will be imperceptible. This will not work with varnish. You will have to change it entirely, because the difference between the old and new layers will clearly stand out. In addition, the average consumption of varnish is 150-250 g / m 2, and the same indicator for oil is 50-70 g / m 2. Taking into account the peculiarities of the restoration, it is it that is the more profitable option. Also, do not forget that oil, in contrast to acrylic compounds, preserves the natural beauty and texture of wood.