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Sanded varnish. We work with varnishes: MS, HS, UHS, express varnishes Varnishing with oil varnishes

Wood varnishing

To get an excellent appearance and protect wood products as much as possible, most craftsmen choose oil-based alkyd or polyurethane varnishes. And all of them are familiar with the frustration caused by settled dust particles, brush marks and drips inherent in these coatings. Do not take these annoying flaws as inevitable, it is better to put these tips into practice, and you are guaranteed the result in the form of flawlessly smooth and great-looking surfaces.

1. Before you start

In most cases oil based varnishes dry slowly, forming a sticky surface on which dust settles. With a cold snap, the drying time is delayed several times, therefore, in the room where the finishing is being carried out, the temperature should be maintained at least + 20 ° C. The surrounding air must be clean, so it is best to do the finishing away from the dusty workshop (if possible). Wipe the floor with a damp cloth, lay down paper and remove dust from the product using a vacuum cleaner, sticky swab, or a cloth dampened with white spirit. When handling any solvents, wear suitable gloves and ensure that the work area is well ventilated.

Choose high quality natural bristle brushes with split tips that increase the number of contact points for more even application. When viewed from the side, the tip should appear pointed.

It is necessary to see well what you are doing. Place a bright light source nearby at a slight angle to the surface. First, apply two to three coats of glossy varnish. For the final coat, choose a varnish of the desired gloss level, glossy or matt. By following this rule, it will be possible to avoid the haze inherent in a multilayer matt varnish film.

If you're applying the varnish under normal workshop lighting, it's easy to miss a spot or miss a puddle. Correct the situation by placing a lamp next to it and pointing it in your direction. Light reflected from a wet surface will reveal all streaks, dust particles and other defects.

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Place a lamp next to it and point it in your direction

2. During work

To keep the finishing compound clean, pour a small amount from the can into a separate container wide enough to dip the brush. For the first coat, dilute the varnish by half with white spirit. This mixture dries in a thin layer, harder than undiluted varnish, facilitating sanding of the characteristic roughness of the first layer and almost without clogging the sandpaper. The second and third coats can be slightly thinned or applied undiluted. However, at temperatures above + 30 ° C, problems arise caused by accelerated drying. As a result of the rapid formation of a surface film, air bubbles do not have time to escape, and the coating becomes bumpy. You can slow down drying and allow air bubbles to disappear by using a mixture of 20% white spirit and 80% varnish.

After each coat has dried thoroughly, lightly sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper to remove any roughness and level the lacquer film. If there are no major defects, treat the surface with N2 0000 steel wool to improve adhesion of the next coat. When applying water-based varnish, use a fine abrasive sponge instead of steel wool. Dampen the cloth with white spirit and wipe the surface to remove any sanding marks. Apply at least three coats of varnish to a tabletop or other highly worn surface. For other surfaces, two coats are usually sufficient, and areas with small raised details will look better with two coats of varnish diluted 50:50.

Three Secrets to Accurate Varnish Application

On a tabletop or other horizontal surface, apply varnish with overlapping stripes running along the entire length of the part. Start the strip about 75mm from the edge and paint all the way to the edge. Then go back to the starting point and move the tool to the opposite edge.

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Wood varnishing

Remove air bubbles and brush marks with the brush itself. First, squeeze the bristles against the edge of a working container or blot with a paper towel to remove most of the varnish. Then, holding the brush upright, run the very tips of the bristles over the fresh varnish along the grain of the wood.

Wood varnishing

If it is not possible to reposition the vertical surface, apply the varnish crosswise to avoid sagging. Apply less polish to your brush, starting from the bottom and working your way up. Apply the varnish in horizontal stripes from the middle to the edges. Then smooth out the varnish layer with long vertical strokes from bottom to top.

Wood varnishing

3. When the varnish is dry

After applying the last coat of varnish, several more steps are required to obtain a professional result. Allow the coating to dry under normal conditions for at least two weeks and then buff it. At the same time, all minor imperfections are removed and the gloss is leveled. It is even possible to change the gloss level of a semi-matt or glossy varnish, resulting in a matte or silky finish (achieving a high gloss with most oil varnishes is very difficult). Tabletops and other horizontal surfaces that are most visible and most likely to be touched require particularly careful polishing. Other details, such as legs, need only light sanding or fine steel wool.

Three polishing steps for a professional finish

When the coating is completely cured, sand it in the same way as for sanding between coats, using only 320 grit stearate sandpaper or waterproof paper and white spirit as a lubricant. In this case, it is enough just to smooth out small irregularities, and then wipe the surface with a soft cloth.

Wood varnishing

After sanding, use fine steel wool (# 0000) for a soft, silky shine. Press down on a thick piece of steel wool with your palm and make long, straight strokes along the grain. Then wipe the surface with a cloth dampened with white spirit.

Before starting the parquet varnishing process, you should carefully study the recommendations of the varnish manufacturer and the accompanying technical documentation, pay attention to the restrictions on the use of varnish and its shelf life.

If, during the application of the lacquer coating, obvious defects related to the quality of the lacquer are found, pause the work and consult the manufacturer or dealer. The varnish should be applied in strict accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. You need to start applying varnish immediately after finishing sanding the parquet.

There are various methods of varnish application: manual application - with a swab, brush, trowel, roller, and mechanical airless spraying with a spray gun. Basically, only the primer or the first coat of varnish is applied with a spatula. The next layers are applied with a brush or roller. If the varnish is applied with a spatula, then the directions of the passages should be perpendicular to one another. This means that if the first passage was along the room, then the second should be across. Spatula strokes are usually made in S-shaped movements, from which the varnish coating is more durable and the joints of adjacent areas are masked. Since the absorption of varnish into the wood with this method of application is negligible, the wood acquires a light tone. The varnish brush should be wide. Brush strokes are usually done in a U-shape. As a result, an overlap of the adjacent area is achieved and no thickening of the lacquer layer is formed. In one motion, apply varnish to an area of ​​such a size that the brush contacts the edge of the area with freshly applied varnish.

After working with two-component varnishes, the brush must be rinsed with a solvent so that the remaining varnish on the brush does not harden. During a break when working with one-component varnishes, the brush can be kept in a container with varnish. This container should be closed during long breaks in work or transportation.

If the varnish is applied with a roller, the directions of movement during work should be oriented crosswise. When moving across, the varnish is applied, when moving along it is leveled. When leveling, the roller should only reciprocate. After that, the roller is lifted, shifted by about 3/4 of its width, and the cycle of reciprocating movements is repeated. In the vicinity of walls, the speed of applying the varnish should be reduced to avoid accidentally touching the wall with the roller. When applying varnish with a roller, do not make M-shaped movements, this can cause the appearance of shadow-like thickenings on the varnished surface. If the roller has been in a container with varnish for a long time, then before resuming work, it must be rolled out well, otherwise dripping is possible when applying varnish.

In accordance with international DIN standards, the acceptance of the surface of the lacquer film is made from the height of a person's height from top to bottom in diffused light. At the same time, one should not kneel down and use artificial sources of illumination (backlight) when assessing the quality.

About 30% of all claims for finished parquet floors are claims for varnishing. It often happens that the customer makes high demands on the lacquer coating, expecting industrial “furniture” quality. At the same time, it is not taken into account that varnishing is performed manually and sometimes in unfavorable conditions of a construction site.

Despite all the efforts of parquet flooring, there is no room with an absolute absence of dust, so that the smallest dust particles do not settle on the fresh varnish. Individual hairs from the brush or small inclusions in the lacquer film are permissible and cannot be avoided. The customer needs to know that these are insignificant defects, they do not have any effect on the overall durability of the coating.

Of course, you should pay attention to significant defects. The surface of the floor must be varnished evenly. However, it is impossible to require the same thickness of the varnish layer due to the different absorbency of the wood. The lacquer film should not have large roughness, sagging, distinct edges of lacquer stripes, missing areas, the coating should have an even shine. Let's take a look at the causes and ways to prevent common varnish defects.

1. The varnish layer does not dry

Possible reasons:

    natural oils contained in wood prevent varnish from hardening, for example, varnish based on artificial oil resins (urethane alkyd, alkyd) does not dry on some exotic wood (olive, teak, cam-she);

    poorly sanded floor surface, residues of wax mastics are preserved in old floor coverings and prevent hardening of the varnish layer, for example, this can happen when using polyurethane anhydrous, acidic, urethane alkyd and alkyd varnishes;

    the hardener was added to the two-component varnish in an insufficient amount, not mixed or poorly mixed, or not applied at all;

    too low room temperature (below 10 ° С);

    the room temperature is high enough, but the floor surface is cold;

    insufficient access to fresh air (lack of ventilation);

    the hardener is incorrectly selected, for example, a hardener for polyurethane varnish has been added to the varnish instead of an acidic hardener.

Remedies.

If the delays in the hardening of the varnish are associated with substances contained in the wood or too low a room temperature, then in most cases it is sufficient to increase the temperature to 20 ° C and increase the ventilation. After a while, the hardening process is activated again and the varnish dries up. If an inappropriate hardener has been used or not enough has been added, then in most cases it is necessary to sand the applied coating. In some cases, when using acidic varnishes, the position can be corrected by applying a clean acidic hardener to the surface of the uncured varnish with a brush. But after such an operation, it is necessary to re-polish the lacquer layer.

2. Whitish influx

Causes:

    the varnish was applied too cold;

    the temperature of the floor surface is too low, the air humidity is too high;

    the total humidity in the room is too high (new building).

Remedies.

Whitish beads indicate that moisture from the air has condensed on the freshly applied varnish. In most cases, the treatment of whitish beads with a solvent helps, after which it is necessary to re-varnish. Before applying the next layer, it is necessary to warm up the room and it is especially important to increase the temperature of the floor surface.

3. Swelling of the varnish layer

Causes:

    incompatibility of different layers of varnish, for example, a front layer of a two-component polyurethane varnish is applied to the layer of water-dispersion varnish;

    the thinner is incorrectly selected; the varnish application tool has been impregnated with a cleaning agent and the varnish has mixed with the cleaning agent, or the tool has not been properly cleaned;

    the intermediate grinding has not been carried out thoroughly enough.

Remedies.

If swelling occurs on small areas of the floor, they can be sanded down and a new varnish coat applied. When the entire surface of the floor is swollen, the situation can only be corrected by completely grinding the applied varnish.

4. Bubble formation

Causes:

    the varnish is too cold;

    the varnish layer is too thick;

    the influence of bright sunlight;

    incorrect selection of a roller or brush for applying varnish.

Remedies.

Bubbles are formed when the lacquer layer hardens only on the surface, but inside it remains liquid. The evaporated solvent cannot penetrate the hardened film and accumulates underneath in the form of bubbles. The situation can be corrected only by polishing the film surface and applying a new layer of varnish.

5. Varnish coating in stripes.

Causes:

    too high room temperature or high floor temperature;

    the layer of the applied varnish is too thick;

    the work is carried out too slowly, the varnish sections have time to dry before they begin to cover the adjacent sections, there is no adhesion between the films of the adjacent sections;

    inaccuracy in work or incorrect selection of a tool for applying varnish.

Remedies.

The viscosity of all varnishes, which means that their technological properties can be slightly improved by adding thinners. When applying the first layer of varnish, the absorbent component is always greater than when applying the remaining layers. To improve adhesion to the substrate and save varnish, a solvent is used. When applying the second and subsequent layers, it is advisable to add a small amount of solvent to the varnish in order to improve adhesion to the already applied layer. In most cases, it is enough to speed up the work rhythm, varnish adjacent areas as quickly as possible so that they do not have time to dry. To slow down the drying process of the film, reduce the heating and ventilation intensity.

6. Crater formation

Causes:

    the varnish tool is out of order (especially with rollers);

    the wrong solvent is selected;

    draft in the room;

    the varnish is applied too cold;

    the so-called "silicone poisoning" of the varnish surface.

Remedies.

In draft conditions, many parquet varnishes form craters, especially if the varnish has been overcooled during storage and has become overly viscous as a result. The situation can be corrected by carrying out a full intermediate polishing of the face layer. The polished film is then sanded with a sharp-edged metal spatula. After filling, the surface is well dried, but it should no longer be sanded. Then a new layer of varnish is applied.

7. Roughness

Causes:

    very fine bubbles are distributed over the film;

    dust has fallen on the film;

    improper intermediate lacquer sanding (polishing);

    the remains of a dried varnish crust from the container for applying varnish fell on the film;

    fatty fingerprints on the instrument.

Remedies.

It is very difficult to give an exact definition of the concept of roughness in most cases. Film roughness can often be detected only by literally armed with a magnifying glass. Most of the claims declared as roughness are related to dirt on the coatings. At the facility where the parquet varnishing process is in progress, it is necessary to maintain by all means the cleanliness of working tools and containers with varnish.

8. Wrinkling ("elephant skin")

Causes:

    too quick application of one layer of varnish on another;

    too thick layers of varnish;

    wrong choice of solvent.

Remedies.

The defect can be corrected only when wrinkles appear in small areas of the coating. If wrinkling extends to the entire surface of the floor, then the applied layer of varnish must be sanded. Varnishes based on artificial oil resins are especially prone to wrinkling if they are applied in an excessively thick layer or if a new layer is applied without allowing the previous one to dry well enough.

9. Glossy or matte finish is stained

Cause:

    The varnish layer is very thick, matting additives settle unevenly in it.

Remedy.

Intermediate polishing and applying a new thin layer of varnish.

10. Cracking

Causes:

    too thick applied layer, for example, in the case of acid-curing varnishes;

    Too much hardener has been added to the two-component varnish.

Remedies.

A cracked layer of acidic varnish should be completely sanded and the surface should be varnished again. At present, factory-varnished parquet has appeared on the market. The varnish on such parquet is mechanically applied by airless spraying in special factory vacuum chambers and cured by ultraviolet or electron-beam irradiation. Factory varnishing technology excludes hand-applied defects and allows you to achieve “furniture” quality. However, sometimes craftsmen are faced with the customer's desire to re-varnish such parquet in the conditions of a construction site in order to hide laying defects (large gaps between the planks) or operating defects (varnish chips, etc.). In this case, you need to know that not every parquet, varnished under production conditions, can in principle be re-varnished. This is due to the fact that bonding varnishes used in industry are not always compatible with hand-applied varnishes.

It is necessary in each case to investigate the problem of compatibility between factory and newly applied varnishes. It is best to consult your lacquered parquet dealer as not all commercially available parquet lacquers can be recoated. Before applying a new layer, it is necessary to sand with the factory varnish with a single disc machine so that after polishing the entire surface becomes evenly matt. However, if the base has a local curvature or the bar is warped, then there is a risk of complete removal of the varnish or the preservation of the intact varnish layer in some places (there is a possibility of delamination due to insufficient adhesion).

Another problem is the visual highlighting of the plank joints. When the varnish is applied to the front surface, then visually the joints between the planks are even more noticeable. Even if the gaps in the joints of the planks are so small that a complaint is out of the question, the appearance of the coating may deteriorate significantly and the customer will be dissatisfied.

It should be added that dust particles deposited on the freshly applied varnish layer will be clearly visible on the front surface of the film of almost perfect quality, which can be a reason for making claims. After analyzing all this, one should come to the conclusion: re-varnishing of the finished parquet can only be done under extreme circumstances.

In conclusion, it should be noted that our recommendations are based on experience and knowledge gained in the production process. These guidelines may not be binding on everyone. Your work result may differ from that indicated in the article. We hope that our tips will help you achieve good quality work.

Every woman who knows how to paint her nails with varnish can have perfectly well-groomed nails. Indeed, both the appearance and the stability of the coating depend on the correct application.

Before proceeding with the application of a decorative coating, it is worth assessing the condition of the nails. The varnish will only look attractive, so if the nails are uneven, there are burrs around, and the cuticle is dry and tough, it is imperative to get a manicure. If you paint up unkempt nails with varnish, then all the shortcomings will only become more obvious.

How to properly varnish your nails

Before applying the coating, the surface of the nail must be degrease, otherwise the varnish will lie unevenly and peel off quickly. You can degrease your nails with a nail polish remover, after which it is advisable to rinse them with clean water. You can simply wash your hands with soap and water.

It is more convenient to apply nail polish if you put your hand on a support - a flat pad or a towel folded several times.

Special products sold in bottles (for example, Dry Kwik Sally Hansen) and in the form of sprays (for example, Sec'n DRY Orly) allow you to quickly dry the varnish on your nails. Sprays are easy to use but sometimes cause bubbles. Therefore, it is better to use those "dryers" that look like varnish and are applied either with a brush or with a special pipette on each nail separately.

Checking if the varnish has dried is quite simple. With the nail of one hand, you should lightly touch the nail of the other hand, as if patting. If the nails do not stick together, the coating is dry.

A manicure won't look perfect if there are polish stains on the skin around the nail. You can remove them with a cotton swab dipped in nail polish remover. But it is much more convenient to use a special corrector. It resembles a marker in shape and has a rather thin rod impregnated with nail polish remover.

How to paint your nails with varnish depending on their shape

  • If the nails are narrow and long, do not varnish the hole, it is better to step back a little;
  • It is better to cover short and wide nails with varnish in the center, leaving narrow strips at the edges unpainted in order to visually stretch the shape. Thick varnish is contraindicated for short nails - such a coating falls on them unevenly;
  • Almond-shaped nails are considered ideal, they can be safely varnished completely without resorting to any tricks.

Any nail polish will thicken over time. If the bottle contains metal balls, then regular shaking will slightly extend the life of the varnish. But in any case, with regular use through 3-4 months there will be less liquid in the varnish. Therefore, sooner or later the question may arise: "How to dilute the nail polish?" It should be noted right away that dilution reduces the durability of the coating, but sometimes this is the only way to revive your favorite varnish.

It is best to use a special varnish thinner. Add a few drops to the bottle and shake it thoroughly. This method can extend the life of the varnish by up to one month. Re-thinning will change the structure of the varnish, it may delaminate, lump, and lose its durability.

It is not recommended to dilute the varnish with acetone or a liquid to remove it, since the coating may have an inhomogeneous structure, and its durability will be significantly reduced.

No matter how gentle the formulas of modern varnishes are, nails still need periodic rest from the decorative coating.

However, the recommendations calling for removing the varnish every day raise a lot of doubts about their validity. First, applying and removing nail polish will be time-consuming. Secondly, nail polish remover is far from a safe product, so you should not be zealous with the frequency of its use.

The optimal mode of wearing nail polish is:
We walk for 5 days with coverage, 2 days without.

How to erase nail polish

No matter how beautiful the decorative coating is, sooner or later it’s time to remove it from the nails. The vast majority of varnishes are removed with a special liquid. Attempts to remove varnish from nails by abrading a gradually peeling coating lead to delamination of the nail plate.

A cotton pad is moistened with liquid and applied to the nail for 10-20 seconds. After that, the disk is passed several times along the nail from the cuticle and tip. Do not rub it up and down with a cotton swab, such movements can damage the nail, especially if the varnish to be removed contains glitter or metal particles.

How to remove nail polish if you don't have a special liquid at hand

In any case, a special nail polish remover will do its job better than any other product. It is only important to choose the right liquid, avoiding those products that contain acetone. Modern products are prepared on the basis of ethyl acetate, amyl acetate, methyl ethyl ketone, which are not inferior to acetone in their dissolving properties, but are less harmful to the nails and respiratory tract.

Additional nail care is provided by castor oil, vitamins, plant extracts that are part of the nail polish remover.

Nail polish remover does not have to be liquid. Manufacturers also offer gel and cream textures. Such products evaporate less and contain more caring components.

Beautifully painted nails certainly adorn a woman's hand. Fortunately, any woman can master the art of applying nail polish correctly. It just takes a little practice, desire and good mood.

Wood is varnished with various varnishes. The main ones are considered alcohol, oil, nitro and polyester varnishes... Lacquered parts look slightly worse than polished or waxed ones. When varnishing, in addition to all the preparatory work carried out during polishing, the priming process is also added.

Special formulations for priming are rubbed into the dry prepared surface of the part with a swab.

According to their consistency, primers are divided into liquid and thick, the former are used for priming microporous wood species, the latter - for large-porous ones.

The table shows the recipes for the most common primers and primer pastes.

Primer name Composition by weight Cooking method Appointment
Shellac primer Boron shellac - 30, raw alcohol - 15 Dissolve shellac in warm alcohol Primer for shellac and alcohol varnish
Rosin primer Pine rosin - 30, raw alcohol - 15 Dissolve rosin in warm alcohol Primer for shellac and iditol varnish
Drying oil Natural drying oil — Primer for oil varnishes
Oil rosin paste Drying oil - 8, rosin - 12, turpentine - 25, desiccant - 1.5, talc - 40 Dissolve the rosin in turpentine, add a desiccant and drying oil, then the filler Primer for oil varnishes for large-porous wood species
Rosin-casein paste Rosin - 6, turpentine - 15, casein - 5, water - 25 Prepare casein glue, heat it up to 50 ° С and pour rosin solution in turpentine into it Primer for oil and alcohol varnishes for large-porous wood species
Nitro primer Cellulose - 15, solvent No. 646-30, castor oil - 0.5 Dissolve cellulose in solvent, add castor oil and mix thoroughly Primer for nitro varnishes
Nitropellulose paste Nitrolac-7, solvent No. 646-7, dibutyl-phgolate - 3, turpentine - 12, talc (or chalk) - 20 Nitrolacquer is poured into talc (chalk) and everything is mixed, everything else is added and mixed again Primer for nitro varnishes for large-porous wood species

For additional coloring of wood, pigments of the corresponding colors can be added directly to the primer.

Varnishing with alcohol varnishes

The varnishing process is carried out with a swab (made in the same way as when polishing), inside which alcohol varnish is poured. The best varnish is shellac.

The varnish is applied to the prepared surface of the part along the grain of the wood, without streaks and evenly over the entire surface. The drying time of the first layer is 3-4 hours, after which it is sanded with sandpaper No. 12 without pressure. Dust from the surface of the part is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. The dried first layer is covered with a second layer, thinned varnish (shellac content about 12%). The second layer also dries for 3-4 hours, then it is sanded with pumice powder with water (wet linen rags are powdered with pumice powder). It should be sanded with light circular motions without pressure, so as not to sand the varnish. After removing the dust, the part is covered with a third layer of varnish (the consistency of which is the same as when the second layer was applied), then the part is dried for 24 hours.

Polishing (final process) is carried out with a linen swab moistened with kerosene and powdered GOI paste. Finally, the part is wiped with a clean cloth.

With the help of shellac varnish, you can varnish coniferous wood with high quality. It is ground, de-resinated and covered with a thin layer of wood glue. After the glue has completely dried, the surface of the wood is covered with 5-6 layers of shellac varnish. Drying time for each layer of varnish 3-5 hours, the last - 1 day.

Sanding block with clips

The dried surface is polished with a sanding bar with cloth, GOI paste with sunflower oil. After polishing, the oil is removed with a swab soaked in alcohol.

Varnishing with oil varnishes.

Varnishing with oil varnishes is not much different from varnishing with alcohol. The drying time for each layer of oil varnish is increased to 2 days. In this case, the varnish is applied with a bristle brush evenly, without drips.

After drying, the first layer of varnish is sanded with sandpaper No. 16 with light pressure along the grain of the wood. Dust from the surface is removed with a rag and then a second layer of varnish is applied. The dried second layer is sanded with pumice powder applied to a slightly damp felt or cloth. Dust after grinding is removed and the surface is wiped with a clean soft cloth.

The third layer of varnish is applied and sanded in the same way as the second. The dried surface is polished (leveled) with a swab made of a washed linen cloth moistened with alcohol. A few drops of sunflower or linseed oil are applied to the tampon.

Polishing is done with smooth circular movements so that each subsequent layer of varnish slightly overlaps the previous one. The polishing operation is repeated 2-3 times. Remove traces of oil after the last polishing with a soft, clean cloth.

Varnishing with nitro varnishes.

When varnishing wood parts with nitro varnishes, special attention must be paid to drying the parts, since nit varnishes adhere very poorly on an insufficiently dried surface.

On sale there are nitro lacquers of the following brands: NTs-221, NTs-222, NTs-224 (transparent), NTs-218 (transparent dark), NTs-243 (opaque), etc. The best of them is NTs-222 nitrolacquer. The lacquer coating obtained after applying nitro-lacquer NTs-222 has high hardness, is easy to grind and polish.

In the room where varnishing is carried out, the temperature must be at least 18-20 ° C, the room must be ventilated.

The varnish is applied to the surface to be treated with a spray gun evenly, without gaps and streaks. Each subsequent varnish coat should be applied in a direction perpendicular to the previous one. Each layer dries for about an hour.

After drying, the first, second and third layers of varnish are sanded with sandpaper No. 20-16 with slight pressure. After applying the fourth layer of varnish, the part is dried for a day and then sanded with sandpaper No. 12, while the surface of the workpiece is slightly moistened with kerosene or gasoline. The part polished in this way is wiped dry with a soft cloth.

The most important and precise operation in the varnishing process is polishing. Polishing (leveling of the surface) is performed with a swab made of linen, moistened with a small amount of a mixture of rectified alcohol and solvent No. 646 (taken in a 1: 1 ratio).

To obtain a high quality varnish film, it is covered (with a swab) with two layers of shellac polish (concentration 6-8%). Drying of the shellac coating lasts two days, after which the surface is degreased with rectified alcohol.

Another way of varnishing with nitro varnishes. The surface of the wood is prepared in the usual way. A colorless nitro varnish (for example, nitrol varnish NTs-222) is applied to a clean and dry surface with a spray gun. The viscosity of the first layers of nitro lacquer should be reduced, i.e. Nitrolacquer bought in a store is diluted with 10-15% solvent. First, 4-5 layers of nitro-varnish are applied to the surface of the wood; drying time between layers 10-15 minutes at a temperature of 30 ° C (at 18-20 ° C the drying time increases to 30 minutes).

The next two layers are applied with nitro varnish diluted with 8-10% solvent, and one more layer - with nitro varnish diluted with 6-8% solvent. Drying times between coats are the same as for the first coats. Final drying - 2 days at a temperature of 18-20 ° C.

The dried surface is sanded with abrasive paper no. 16-12 with white spirit. then the grain of the skin gradually decreases to No. 6.

The surface wiped after sanding is covered with two more layers of nitro varnish. Drying time between layers is 30 minutes, after the second layer - a day.

Next, the surface is polished with GOI paste, applied to a grinding block with a cloth, the cloth of the tool is moistened with white spirit. Then the surface is wiped with a cotton swab moistened with polishing water. Rubbing is carried out in a circular motion until a mirror surface is obtained. After this operation, the surface is wiped with a dry cotton swab.

Varnishing with polyester varnishes.

Polyester varnishes are colorless plastics that are very tough and adhere well to wood.

Craftsmen usually use cold-curing polyester varnishes - multicomponent formulations that are mixed immediately before use. (the pot life of varnishes is up to 16 hours, the time of complete curing is not more than 24 hours).

Advantages of polyester varnishes:

  • when applying one layer of varnish, you can get a film up to 0.4 mm thick due to the fact that the varnish layer does not dry out, but polymerizes without changing its thickness (this indicates that these are plastics, not varnishes);
  • the varnish film is mirror-like, transparent and colorless (very similar to a polished surface);
  • high resistance of the film to the action of many chemicals, sunlight, temperatures, abrasion;
  • simplicity and speed of processing;
  • reduced flammability of the film.

The technology for working with cold curing polyester varnishes is as follows. Mix the components of the varnish in the proportions indicated on the label. The varnish is applied by watering or spraying on a horizontal plane. The edges of the plane are pasted over with adhesive tape so that it protrudes slightly above the plane and does not allow the varnish to drain from the plane. After the varnish has hardened, the adhesive tape is removed.

The surface covered with polyester varnish is polished with a sanding block with a cloth using GOI paste and vegetable oil. After polishing, the oil is removed with a swab soaked in alcohol. Wipe the surface with a dry and clean cotton swab.

The final finishing stage for most carvings is varnishing. Only under the varnish is the master's intention fully revealed, the product becomes bright and elegant. The varnish reveals all the beauty of natural wood, while the faded dry wood stain picks up the tone and emphasizes the relief of the carvings. At the same time, the varnish reveals all the flaws and mistakes made in the process of carving and grinding. So, for example, large scratches and irregularities are immediately visible on the surface of the craft, due to the different reflection of light. In this case, it is much easier to touch up the surface if you worked with the natural color of the wood without staining with stain - just sand the bad spot again and then varnish it again. It is much worse when the product is tinted: you will have to remove all the varnish along with the stain (most likely, cut it off with a knife) and re-grind and tint the craft.

Better to varnish with a brush. Artistic brush No. 6 made of dog hair is suitable for almost all products - it is written on it (brush) - “6. Dog". The coating scheme is simple: two or three layers of nitro varnish, surface sanding and one layer of oil varnish, that is, nitro varnish is used as a quick-drying primer. By the way, it is possible to apply oil varnish over dried nitro varnish, but on the contrary - in no case: the surface will swell sloppily and the entire coating will have to be removed.

Furniture nitro lacquer - the first layer

For the initial coating, a colorless furniture nitro varnish, preferably glossy or high-gloss, is suitable. You can use NC-218 varnish. Now there are lacquers-analogs of NTs-218 with four-digit numbers, they differ in the degree of gloss: matte, semi-mat, semi-gloss, etc., so carefully read the label before purchasing. To thin the varnish (approximately to the viscosity of homemade milk or city cream), use the solvent indicated on the varnish label (usually N 6-16), but never acetone - get extra care to remove the dried varnish layer with numerous bubbles inside ... And one more thing: avoid getting water into the varnish! If this happens, the varnish will be hopelessly damaged - when it dries, a cloudy white plaque will begin to appear on the surface of the products.

Cover the product with an even thin layer, rubbing the bubbles that appear. Do not return twice in one session to the same place, even if the varnish was instantly absorbed there (this usually happens on end cuts). The first layer dries quickly, and after 10 minutes you can start applying the second layer of varnish. After the second layer, the exposure should be given more - up to several hours. Run your finger over the varnished surface. Feeling rough? This is the same nap on wood (it is especially noticeable on linden), which was discussed - after all, the stain is on the water. Now your task is to remove this nap, as well as possible sags and streaks of varnish (which should not be present with careful varnishing) on ​​the surface of the product. To do this, use sandpaper - zero, that is, No. 0. Gently, without pressure, sand the entire varnished surface. If, nevertheless, accidentally somewhere on a sharp edge you erase a layer of varnish along with a stain, touch up the damaged area with a suitable colored pencil. After sanding, it is useful to walk over the product with a soft (shoe) brush. As a result of the work, the surface should become smooth and slightly silky to the touch, and do not pay attention to the loss of gloss.

Coating the product with oil (alkyd) varnish

And, finally, the final stage - coating the product with oil (alkyd) varnish. Here the main requirement is that the layer must be very thin, and drips are not allowed at all. It is always better to repeat the coating (after the first layer has completely dried) than to remove the sag, which, if applied, for example, with PF-283 varnish, will harden “for grinding” not earlier than in a few days. By the way, this varnish (or its four-digit analogue), drying for 36 hours, is the most convenient for a beginner carver: since it does not harden for a long time, it is better distributed over the surface, and the bubbles formed during the coating process disappear by themselves. Before purchasing varnish, carefully read the label on the can. So, the PF-157 varnish, in contrast to the PF-283 varnish, dries much faster, that is, it requires faster and more accurate work with a brush, but it is suitable not only for indoor (indoors), but also for outdoor work. If you make, for example, a carved cane, then it is better to cover it with PF-157 varnish, since it will be used mainly on the street. Do not buy varnish in large cans, since its consumption is small, and the shelf life (for domestic brands) is no more than a year. Then the varnish begins to grow cloudy, and all that remains is to throw it away.

Varnishes "TIKKURILA"

Of course, unpatriotic, but the best varnish for finishing is from TIKKURILA, or rather, made in our company, but using Finnish technology. It is a high-gloss, abrasion-resistant parquet lacquer. True, it hardens very quickly - drying "from dust" takes only a few hours. Well, we just dilute it a little more and apply the layer thinner, and if there are “bulges” on the surface, then we repeat the process. In this case, it is necessary to properly dry the first layer of varnish and it is desirable to lightly sand it. After sanding, by the way, the surface to be coated will be better visible and the likelihood of missing any area will sharply decrease. All oil and alkyd varnishes are diluted with white spirit.

Unlike nitro varnish, oil (alkyd) varnish will give the products a bright "greasy" shine, so that sometimes they look like ceramic ones. But, firstly, this is a matter of taste, secondly, oil varnishes are much stronger, more durable and are not so afraid of water and, thirdly, the shine of the products "calms down" over time. However, if you want, you can limit yourself to three layers of nitro varnish - two primers, then sanding and one final layer. It also shines, but the shine of nitro varnish is softer, "dry". Based on these considerations, jewelry items made of wood of natural colors are covered only with nitro lacquer, but more about this in the article on jewelry.

An alternative is boiling vegetable oil

And one more rather specific coverage option. For example, how to cover the knitting needles in contact with food, the so-called "canapé skewers"? You can proceed as follows: pour the planed from the beech strip and the polished skewers into a frying pan with hot vegetable oil. After a while, they will begin to darken intensely, after which you need to quickly pull them out with tweezers and lay them out on a cloth to dry, and then polish with the same cloth to a light shine. So now they are not afraid of water (of course, it is not worth soaking them, but it is quite possible to wipe them), they look decent enough and at the same time are ecologically perfect.