Collar that covers the face. An important detail: types of coat collars. Fold-over collars - types

02.04.2019

Choosing a shirt, not every man will pay attention to such a miniature detail as a collar. Meanwhile, it is he who complements the image, makes it complete and bright. In addition, it is easy to determine by the collar whether it is worth making a purchase: to do this, you just need to button the shirt with the top button. If the neck does not tighten and you feel comfortable, take it.

How to choose the right collar?

The invariable rule is: be sure to consider your face type as well as the length of your neck. For example, if you are the owner of too long face in the shape of an oval, then a short wide collar will visually adjust it without any problems.
A high collar is a taboo for a man with short neck, but a low stand-up collar or a flat version will look perfect.
If you, on the contrary, Long neck, then a high stand-up collar is the best fit.
For those whose parameters can be characterized by the word "average", experiments are prohibited: you need to choose a simple collar of medium length.
Men with a round face and thick neck should never wear a shirt with a collar that fastens with buttons. A small turn-down collar will not work either, but a model with sharp corners is fine.
Keep in mind that the collar and lapel of your jacket should be approximately the same width.

Collar types

There are several basic types of collars, and each one has its own unique characteristics... If you are free to navigate in them, then you can easily choose the perfect shirt.

Classic collar

Best for those who prefer timeless classics regardless of the choice of wardrobe details. Per last years this model has undergone some changes, and now the distance from the top button to the end of the collar is 7 cm, but otherwise it is the same.

Looks best with a double-breasted blazer and pinstripe suits.

Italian collar

This collar is a salvation for short, thin men who are not satisfied with their appearance: it visually expands the cheekbones and shoulders. Now this type of collar is very popular.

Kent

This collar can be described as a cross between the two previous types. Its main difference is sharp corners, the ends of which are directed downward. it universal option that fits into any wardrobe. It looks appropriate and stylish regardless of the setting.

To make the image more vivid, you can buy a shirt with such a collar plain tie with jacquard weave.

Butterfly

The name of this type speaks for itself: it looks best in combination with a bow tie. Is not big collar- a stand with pointed ends that bend to the side (at an angle of 45 degrees).

There is also another version of it - a double butterfly collar. It consists of two layers of fabric, while the upper one is slightly smaller and opens the lower one.

Mandarin

It is a low, tight-fitting stand-up collar. A shirt with such a collar is difficult to combine with something, but in its defense it should be said that most often the mandarin collar is preferred by designers who turn to bold, unusual options.

This collar is very stiff and strict, more popular in the West than here. His distinctive feature- a strap on a special fastener, thanks to which the ends of the collar are attracted to each other, and its position is rigidly fixed. You should not wear it with the top buttons unbuttoned and ignore the tie.

In our review, we have collected the maximum number of collar models with detailed description, pictures and photos. Highly useful information for everyone interested in fashion and style, as well as for sewing lovers.

The collar is a piece of clothing that decorates the neckline of the product and gives it a finished look. Various models collars perform several functions at the same time, depending on the purpose of the product: they protect from cold and wind and decorate the suit, creating a fashionable and stylish image... Consider what collars are.

Collar models can be divided into the following group:

standing;
standing-turn;
flat-lying;
jacket type;
fancy collars.

By the method of alignment with the neck there are several types of collars:

set-in;
one-piece cut with product details;
removable.

Collar models: stand-up collars

Stand-up collars give products a strict, laconic look, therefore they are popular in uniform and office clothes... Thanks to high degree Closure of clothes with this type of collar, it is popular in products for the cold season: jackets, coats, windbreakers. There are many styles of this type of collar, the most popular of which are:

Stand-up collar- makes a single whole with shelves and backs of products.
Trumpet-collar- a high, rather rigid collar used in coats and jackets.
Funnel stand-up collar- the style of the collar not adjacent to the neck.
Collar Mao- a stand with a vertical slit without rounded collar edges.
Chinese stand-up collar- with a cut in the center and rounded edges; found in models of military uniforms, but in female suit popular as a Chinese collar.
Stand-up collar with fold-over corners- used in men's shirts XIX century; occasionally found in women's fashion.
Collar- soft stand-up collar, lying in the form of soft folds.
Collar "Stuart"- Stand-up collar decorated with lace at the top.

Collar models - photo: 1. Soft hood collar. 2. Stand-up collar. 3. Flounce collar. 4. Turtleneck collar (golf). 5. Wide flat collar. 6. Nautical collar... 7. Wing collar. 8. Flat-lying dog-ears collar. 9. English collar with cuffs. 10. Turndown jacket collar with lapels. 11. Chelsea collar. 12. Shawl collar... 13. Clamp. 14. Collar tie. 15. Collar Peter Pan. 16. Sharp shirting.

Collar styles: stand-up collars

Stand-up collars consist of two parts - a fly-off and a stand-up collar. The inner, hidden part of the collar is called the stand-up, and the visible part is called the fly-off. There are the following types of stand-up collars:

Shirt collar- It has big variety departure configurations with pointed or rounded edges.
Collar polo- small stand-up collar with three-button closure.

Collar types: flat collars

Flat collars are widely used in women's and children's clothing: dresses, blouses. There are the following types of flat-lying collars:

Collar "Peter Pan"- small collar round shape, appeared in 1904 and named after the hero of a literary work.
Collar "Berta"- a large collar that covers the shoulders is most often made of lace, but other options are also possible.
Jack- sailor collar - large rectangular collar of blue color with three white stripes along the edge; it is believed that at first it was made in the form of a piece of leather that protects the suit from stains due to the hairstyle in the form of a braid; according to another version, a pea jacket was transformed into a collar, protecting the head from splashes.

Types of collars in pictures: 1. Stand-up Chinese collar. 2. Stand-up lace collar. 3. Bertha collar. 4. Golf collar. 5. Collar-collar. 6. Polo collar. 7. Stand-up collar of Mao. 8. Padded "Dog Ears" collar. 9. Shawl collar. 10. Peter Pan. 11. Collar with cuffs. 12. Collar with cuffs and lapels. 13. Collar-bow. 14. Frill. 15. Marine collar.

Collar types: jacket collars:

English collar- the most common style of a collar for jackets, coats, raincoats of the classic style.
Thanks to the indomitable imagination of designers, there are many options for decorating the neck of clothes that are not subject to any classification. All these collar models can be combined into a group of fancy styles.
Collar - shawl (shawl)- turn-down collar with one-piece cuffs rounded shape, a feature of which is the cutting out of the upper collar along with the hem; used in jackets, coats, robes, dresses, etc.
Collar apache- a stand-up collar with wide lapels, lying freely on the shoulders; appeared in a man's suit as a sign of a freedom-loving character, because it is impossible to wear a tie with him, and is named "apache" after the tribe of American Indians, which in French means "hooligan, robber".

Collar models: fancy collars:

Frill collar- consists of several frills sewn into the neck.
Chill collar- in the form of a shuttlecock, cut obliquely or in a circle and sewn into the neck.
Collar-hood- a hood is sewn in place of the collar.
Collar bow- introduced into fashion in the 50s of the XX century and is a kind of two-layer scarf tied with a bow, which gives the image of a woman a romantic look.

Collar models play important role in a suit, being the bearers of fashion: they can give a zest to the image of a woman!

Collar styles - photo: Chinese, shirt, apache collar, polo, frill collar, Bert's collar, flounced collar, chill collar.

When choosing a shirt, many underestimate the importance of such a seemingly small detail as a collar. Today we'll talk about what they are, and which collar suits you best. It should be noted that the size classic shirts is indicated on the collar and if you doubt whether the shirt really suits you - fasten it with the top button, if you feel comfortable - then take it without hesitation.

When choosing a shirt with a particular collar, stylists advise to pay special attention to your face type and, based on it, choose a collar with opposite characteristics to create balance. It's too long Oval face Easily visually corrected with a slightly wider collar than usual. Should not be worn with a short neck high collars, they will remove a few more cm from you purely outwardly (I recommend low collars - stands, preferably flat collars), if you have the opposite problem, then you should use just such high collars (I recommend high collars - stands, preferably collars on a stand). If you have a face and neck of approximately medium size, then, as you might guess, the law of combining opposites does not work - the collars of medium-sized men's shirts will suit you. If you have a problem like round face and it so happened that a thick neck should not be carried away by shirts with small turn-down collars, and collars that are fastened with buttons are contraindicated for you (I recommend collars with sharp corners).

Don't forget the golden rule: gate male shirt should be approximately the same width, with the lapel of the jacket, in fact, the law of combining opposites, described above, will help you choose the right suit.

Let's start with the simplest, oldest, kind classic collar

Type of men's collar: Classic

Of course, if you prefer menswear classic style, then, undoubtedly, you have been seriously and for a long time familiar with this type of collar. Although, what we now call a classic collar, in fact, has already modernized its appearance: the distance from the top button to the end of the collar has decreased by 0.5 cm (now it is 7 cm), the collar itself, as a result, has noticeably decreased. It's your luck to starch collars like this men's clothing there is no longer a need, now they are initially equipped with special stripes in the corners, which allow them to keep their shape. The classic collar is ideal when paired with a double-breasted blazer or pinstripe suit.

Collar type: Italian

Who would have thought, but this type of collar, which is quite popular today, is suitable for people who are slender, have a thin physique, and also do not differ tall... A collar like this contributes to the visual expansion of the cheekbones and shoulders.

Men's Collar Type: Kent

In fact, it is a cross between the two types of shirt collars described earlier. The Kent collar is characterized by sharp corners, the ends of which are directed downward. A sure sign such a collar is an acute-angled triangle formed by its ends. A shirt with such a collar, as with a classic collar, can be bought safely, because it will be appropriate in any bow and suitable for people with absolutely different physique, the structure of the face. Be sure to have such a shirt in your wardrobe. A good addition to a men's shirt with such a collar will be a jacquard-weave tie, preferably plain.

Men's Collar Type: Butterfly

This collar of a men's shirt is very easy to recognize, it usually goes in combination with a bow tie. His characteristic features are: pointed ends bent to the side (45 degree angle) on a stand-up collar. He dresses, as I have already mentioned, under a tie - a bow tie and a tuxedo, a tailcoat, a business card. There is a kind of butterfly collar: a double butterfly collar. In my opinion, it looks very stylish, unlike a simple butterfly collar, it seems to consist of two layers, while upper layer smaller and opens the lower one.

Collar type: Mandarin

Men's shirts with such collars are perfect for french jackets, by and large they are ideally combined only with him. Stand-up collar in its most usual sense, low, tightly fits the neck. This type of collar requires a small distance between the ends under the chin. When you dryly describe this mandarin collar, it seems like the most boring type of all. I would like to justify him. A shirt with a similar collar, as a rule, is quite interestingly solved, for example, the buttons are closed with a strap with embroidery or cuffs, a strap and a collar are made in fabric that is different in texture from the main canvas.

Men's Collar Type: Tab

To be honest, I don’t remember seeing such a collar anywhere in Russia, they say that it is rather popular in America. A men's shirt with such a collar is unlikely to look good with the top buttons unbuttoned or without a tie. Distinctive feature- a strap on a special fastener, which attracts the ends of the collar to each other and rather rigidly, thus, fixes the position of the collar. The placket is subsequently hidden under the tie knot.

By the method of alignment with the neckthere are several types of collars:

set-in;
one-piece cut with product details;
removable.

Collar models can be divided into the following group:

Collar types

Stand collar (band collar)
Single-cut stand-up collar - makes up a single whole with the shelves and backs of the products.
A stand-up collar is a high, rather stiff collar used in coats and jackets.
Stand-up collar in the form of a funnel - the style of the collar not adjacent to the neck.
Collar Mao - stand-up with a vertical slit without rounding the edges of the collar.
Chinese stand-up collar or Mandarin collar (mandarin collar) - with a cut in the center and rounded edges or straight edges; found in models of military uniforms, but in a women's suit is popular as a Chinese collar, p Remarkably, such a collar is also called the Nehru collar,
Stand-up collar with folded corners - has been used in men's shirts since the 19th century; occasionally found in women's fashion.
Collar - golf (turtleneck collar, roll-neck collar) - soft stand-up collar - high collar, rolled down, tightly attached to the neck. At its core, it is broad, double collar resistant. It almost completely covers the neck. Very common in jerseys, classic turtleneck collar
Vorotkin-cadet is a soft, high (up to the chin) stand-up collar, usually fastened with a zipper. It can turn away and become turn-down. Most often, it is sewn from a contrasting fabric with a “ribbed” texture. The cadet collar is classic type collar for men's and women's sports jackets and olympics made of jersey, nylon or bike

Collar-collar - a soft stand-up collar, lying in the form of soft folds.
Collar "Stuart" - a stand-up collar, decorated with lace at the top.
Shirt collar - has a wide variety of departure configurations with pointed or rounded edges.
Polo collar - small stand-up collar with three-button closure
An English collar is the most common style of a collar for jackets, coats, raincoats in a classic style.
Chelsea collar.
Collar - shawl (shawl) - shawl (shawl collar) - standing-turn collar with solid rounded cuffs, a feature of which is the cutting of the upper collar together with the collars; used in jackets, coats, robes, dresses, etc.
Collar-apache-stand-up collar with wide lapels, freely lying on the shoulders; appeared in a man's suit as a sign of a freedom-loving character, because it is impossible to wear a tie with him, and is named "apache" after the tribe of American Indians, which in French means "hooligan, robber".
Collar "Peter Pan" (Peter Pen collar) - a small round collar, became popular in 1904 and is named after the hero of a literary work.
Flat-lying dog-ears collar
Collar "Berta" - a large collar that covers the shoulders, most often made of lace, but other options are also possible.
Guys - sailor collar - a large rectangular collar in blue with three white stripes along the edge; it is believed that at first it was made in the form of a piece of leather that protects the suit from stains due to the hairstyle in the form of a braid; according to another version, a pea jacket was transformed into a collar, protecting the head from splashes.
Collar-jabot (jabot) - consists of several frills sewn into the neck
The chill-out collar is in the form of a flounce, cut in a bias or in a circle and sewn into the neckline.
Collar-hood - a hood is sewn in place of the collar.
Collar ascot (ascot collar) or Collar-bow - type of collar - stand, the edges of which go into wide ribbons, which can be tied under the chin in an arbitrary way. For example, ribbons can be tied in a bow at the very base of the neck, or they can hang tied in a loose knot. Sometimes it is tied in the form of a tie. In some models, the central part of such a collar is offset to the side. In this case, the ribbons are tied with a bow on the side. The ribbons themselves can be either very narrow or quite wide. The length of these tapes may also vary. It all depends on the style of a particular women's blouse. V It was brought into fashion by Coco Chanel in the 50s of the XX century in the form of a collar of a kind of two-layer scarf, tied with a bow, which gives the image of a woman a romantic look. It is noteworthy that in fashion "ascot" is called the method of tying neckerchief under the shirt and is a specific type of classic men's tie- men's scarf Ascot (escot), also Plastron. It should be noted that female ascots appeared in the 19th century. In such collars with ties, the mistress of Louis XIV, Louise de La Vallerie, loved to flaunt. However, then they did not become ubiquitous in fashion and were rather a symbol of bright originality.

Fake collars, oddly enough, have been relevant for several seasons in a row. Although few people decide to purchase them. Why? The answer is banal: not all women of fashion know how and with what to wear such accessories.

What is a patch or detachable collar?

The main task of any detachable collar is to decorate the neckline and neck area (it does not matter if it is worn on a coat or on a blouse). In fact, this product acts as a "necklace" or "choker". Also, with the help of a collar, you can create the illusion of a blouse or shirt - it looks elegant and original when compared, for example, with the same toppings that are the top of the blouse.

Detachable collars are bright enough by themselves, which means they can be classified as full-fledged decorations that do not require any additional accessories or accents.

What kind of overhead collars are

To choose a stylish collar for a dress or coat, it is advisable to know the most popular models, and indeed the width of the assortment.

It would seem, well, what is there to study? Most likely, the concepts of such products are rather limited. And this is a deep misconception. Designers never cease to amaze the sophisticated audience with more and more new models of false collars.

So, detachable collars are divided into the following types:

With a rack. These products resemble the collar from a shirt familiar to everyone, respectively, and fit to the neck in the same way.
Overhead turn-down - very simple form, but a wide field for imagination - you can wear and combine with anything. In addition, the size of such collars is easy to adjust as you wish.
Frill or necklace-mantles - the width of the products is equal along the entire length, and the style itself is borrowed from the royal outfits of the Byzantine rulers. Usually, as a decoration, a detachable collar has a bright "evening" decor.
Sharp corners. Pointed shapes are present here, making the collars seem austere and a little cocky. But, at the same time, they visually lengthen the neck, making it more beautiful.
With rounded corners - products that can only be worn by very young or even young girls.
With front, back or bow closure. In this case, it is the clasp that performs the main aesthetic functions. "Bows" can be very different: white, green, red, blue, etc.
Multilayer. Due to the layering, the volume of the collar visually increases.
From beads, chains and beads. These jewelry are very similar to a necklace or choker. Lovers of pearls and dresses will especially like this detachable collar (a great combination).
Fur or with feathers. But here you need to be careful - the rich texture of these products requires a competent choice and the rest of the outfit. This, of course, does not apply to ordinary fur collars for a coat.
Knitted and textile. Thanks to the use of textiles, false collars are made in the most bizarre forms: a lace collar, vintage items, etc.
Fully decorated. These are models that have a large number of decorations. With the advent of a new trend, it is women's collars (both removable and not) that have become a favorite place for such decor: buttons, rhinestones, sequins, embroidery, beads and much more.
Partially decorated at the edge or at the corners. Another popular type of decoration for false collars, although somewhat "lazy".

Why detachable collar

It will add completeness and a certain amount of gloss to any of the dresses. It can be romantic, elegant, chic, evening, austere or playful fake collar.
As a rule, many outfits look boring and simple without additional decorations. Using a layered collar will correct the situation.
A fake collar focuses on the face, which means it distracts from other parts of the body that you would like to hide.
The model with a high stand in white or black is a full-fledged "tuxedo". Such a collar will instantly turn regular dress in evening dress.

What to wear with a false collar

Here, as mentioned earlier, there is a huge selection. But so that this stylish accessory looked harmonious, it doesn't hurt to find out a few rules for its use:

Wearing such a product with clothing that has its own "native" collar (for example, a coat) provides for the choice of a model that completely covers it.
Best of all, a false collar is combined with things that are simple in cut and style, without additional, and even more pretentious decor.
Almost all models are suitable for different options necks: coats or dresses with a high neckline, V-shaped, asymmetrical, in the form of a drop, boat and heart.
Collars that perfectly match the color of the main clothes will also be an excellent solution. And products with sharp corners will look beautiful not only with everyday, but also with strict outfits.
The detachable stand-up collar will suit an evening dress, and just as a regular accessory.
Model with a lot of decor - the best choice for owners of a thin graceful neck.

Designers advise taking into account the shape of the face when choosing false collars. For example, triangular models are suitable for ladies with round facial features, and for girls with oval shape it is worth taking a closer look at the traditional slightly rounded products and stand-up collars - perfect choice for a winter coat.

Shoes, bags and other jewelry

For an overhead collar, as with any other outfit, it is important to choose the right shoes. If the product is quite strict (office style, etc.), then it is better to wear boats with it on low heel or women's ankle boots. Of course, the design of the shoes directly depends on the finish of the collar and the main clothing - it is advisable to complement a simple outfit (coat or blouse) with brighter shoes (not in terms of color) and vice versa.

As for the bag, its models are also determined by the style of the overhead collar. Too bulky bags with a lot of decor are not suitable for multi-layered options. The color should be contrasting.

Naturally jewelry on the neck in in this case not required to wear, but complementing the image with such items as silver or gold earrings, bracelet, etc. will not hurt. Original women's jewelry will be quite appropriate, but not too bright and, moreover, not vintage.

Types of collars of women's coats

Surprisingly, there is still no uniform classification of collars for outerwear (despite the fact that this detail is more than 500 years old!). Some divide them by the way they are combined with the neck into set-in and one-piece cut, others by the type of fastener into open and closed, others are generally perplexed: “How can you combine hundreds of different styles into some groups and classes, where each collar is a small masterpiece of tailor's art? ! " The most general "breakdown" is given in the textbooks on cutting and sewing: "Models of outerwear can have standing, standing-turn-down, flat-lying, jacket and fancy types of collars." Let's stop at it.

1. Standing collars

"Racks" were the first collars to appear on outerwear. Stand-up collars give products a strict, laconic look, therefore they are popular in uniforms and office wear. Due to the high degree of closure of clothes with this type of collar, it is popular in products for the cold season: jackets, coats, windbreakers.

Today, the stand-up collar is mainly used for sewing outerwear, and its height varies between 2-5 centimeters. The most popular types of stanchions are “mandarin”, “clamp” and “pipe”.

"Mandarin" (aka "Chinese" and "Mao")

Already from the name it is clear that this collar came to us from Imperial China, a country with a strict hierarchical ladder and the same strict dress code. "Tangerines" here long time called officials and civil servants wearing suits with a short, tight-fitting neck, stand-up collar, the edges of which either touch in the middle, or run over each other a little.

A coat with such a collar will surely appeal to women who know a lot about subtle beauty east or preferring clothes in the style of minimalism. And in men's collections "Mao" - as a symbol of authoritarianism and power - is most often found on brutal picots, uniforms as strict as those of Napoleonic marshals and laconic denim jackets.

"Clamp"

And this is greetings from the recent Soviet past. The "collar" was born from an English knitted sweater, more precisely from its neck (this fashion came to the USSR in the 60s). At first he very much resembled his ancestors - he was knitted, soft and tall. Later he began to sew from other materials: cashmere, wool, satin.

"Clamp", as this type of needlewoman and fashion designers affectionately call it, softens the lines of a classic coat, gives it a touch of charming femininity. In recent years, the cowl collar increasingly prefers to perform solo, becoming a separate subject women's wardrobe.

"Pipe" and its variety "Funnel"

The same as the "collar", but made of a tougher fabric, without numerous cozy folds and waves.

2. Standing-turn

They consist of two parts: a hidden stand and a visible pointed or, conversely, rounded departure.

Despite the variety of stand-up collars ("kent", "butterfly", "vario", "tab", etc.), usually only one model is used for sewing coats - "shark". Its peculiarity is the departure corners widely spaced (like the mouth of a predator). So wide that they form an obtuse angle. Other types of stand-up collars adorn men's and women's shirts.

3. Flat-lying

Purely women's collars brought into fashion ... by a man. The cutesy king of England, Henry III, was passionate about dressing up. And also to scent, wear white stockings and curl your hair. Once, the king thought that the popular "millstones" were very heavy and not elegant enough and ordered a camisole with a light lace collar to be made for himself. Well, what the head of state wears is worn by everyone. Later, such collars were sewn from satin and velvet, for greater beauty they were pinned with a brooch and tied with a ribbon.

Today, finding outerwear with a flat collar is a great success. Such coat models are beautiful, a little naive, incredibly feminine, but not very practical (they barely cover the neck), therefore they are supplied to stores in limited quantities.

4. Blazers

These are collars that have switched to outerwear with formal suits, men's jackets and tailcoats.

"English"(more commonly referred to as "classic")

The most popular and perfect collar style. Strict and elegant like an English aristocrat, he has been out of fashion and time for three centuries in a row, not without reason that almost all coats of the President of Russia are decorated with this respectable collar!

East and West are fighting for the right to call him their own. The former argue that national Chinese robes had a similar collar shape, the latter are sure that Schalke- the invention of the Byzantines, who have long loved to decorate the sides of outerwear with fur. Of these disputes, only one thing is known for sure: in the old days, only a rich and noble person could afford a shawl collar. (The poor preferred more practical styles).

"Apache"

A strongly open rectangular collar, vaguely reminiscent of a jack in shape. It was popular in Russia in the 60s of the last century. In Europe, he has been known for a long time, but is considered the collar of rebellious youth and hooligans - apaches. These young people from the country of noble wines and tangled streets wore such wide collars to show their independence, a disdainful attitude towards the "stranglehold" - tie, because it was simply impossible to put it on an "apache" shirt!

5. Fantasy

This group can safely include everything that was not included in the four previous ones. Fancy collars rarely stay "afloat" for a long time, they are, as a rule, fashionable models that should be purchased in two cases:

1) You like to frequently update your wardrobe and be in trend.

2) You already have a pair classic coats and not enough original cut for a special occasion.

The collar is a very important and expressive piece of clothing. It not only gives the product a finished look, but also visually influences the outlines of the face and chin. the shape and length of the neck. The collar must be fashionable. the shape and proportions of clothing.

The collars are very diverse in shape. They consist, as a rule, of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - a rack, between which there is an inflection line. According to the method of connection with the neckline and the principle of construction of the drawing, the collars are divided into two types: sewn into the neckline and cut out together with the main part, most often with the front (one-piece). In shape, they are standing (rack height 3.5-4.5 cm), standing-turn-down (rack height 2.5-3.5 cm), semi-standing (rack height about 2 cm), flat-lying (rack height about 0.5 cm ). Collars also differ in departure width, which can vary from 4 to 24 cm.

When building a drawing, you need to keep in mind that the straighter the stitching line, the higher the collar stand will be. For each type of face, you can choose your own collar shape. All fluctuations in fashion, as a rule, are accompanied by a change in the shapes and types of collars, which are characterized by a great variety. The main factors affecting collar design are:

Method of connecting the collar with the neck of the product (set-in, one-piece, combined);

Neck line shape; the degree of adherence to the neck (tight-fitting, flat-lying, lagging behind the neck);

Clasp type of the product (blind, open).

When constructing patterns for any collars, the shape of the stitching line into the neck and the height of the stand are of primary importance. The shape of the collar departure can be very diverse and depends on the model and the author's imagination.

The construction of the stand, its dimensions, the configuration of the neckline determine the shape of the collar, the degree of its fit. With the maximum height of the stand and a straight or convex line of insertion into the neckline, the collar fits snugly around the neck. With a decrease in the height of the stand and the concave stitching line, the collar lies more shallow. In the absence of a stand, the stitching line coincides with the neck in shape and the collar becomes flat-lying. Collars usually consist of two parts: an upper collar and a lower collar (collar).

According to the construction method, collars can be divided into three groups:

Set-in to products with a clasp to the top (or to a closed neck); one-piece and set-in for products with an open fastener; set-in and one-piece flat-lying and fancy.

SET-IN COLLARS TO THE CLOSED NECK.

The patterns of set-in collars to the neckline with a blind fastener are built separately from the pattern of the bodice and the neck of the product. Depending on the configuration of the stitching line, the collars can be: standing-turn-down; semi-emergency; apache; flat-lying

Stand-up, turn-down collars have a lot of varieties and are characterized by the presence of a rack of various heights at the site of stitching into the neck of the back and coming to naught to its ends. In the area corresponding to the neck of the back and the upper third of the neck of the shelf, it is straight or slightly concave, and in the section of stitching into the rest of the neck it has convex shape... The amount of curvature (in height along the line of the middle of the collar) ranges from 1.5 to 4.5 cm. The shape and size of the fly-off part of the collar and its ends are determined by the model.

1.Stand-down collar to the neckline with fastening to the top.

Mid line - the vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. From point A on the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm, - the length of the collar and put a point A 1

A A, = POSH + 0.5 = 18 + 0.5 = = 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.) A 2 - 4 cm are laid along the middle line and put a point a:

Aa = 2- 4 cm

Points a and A 1 A 1 and // draw down a perpendicular on which 0.2 cm is laid. Points A 1, 0.2, II. 0.5 cm and a connect with a smooth curve.

Departure cut. From point a up the middle line lay 8 - 10 cm - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point A, on the segment a A 1 ; put the points accordingly V and V 1 .

aB = A 1 V 1 = 8-10 cm

Points V and IN 1 connect an auxiliary straight line, which continues to the right by 3 -6 cm (the size of the corner protrusion).

From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore the perpendicular upward, on which 1 - 1.5 cm is laid. A smooth curve going out of the point V at right angles to the line segment AB, connect the dots V, 1-1.5 cm and 3-6 cm. Points A 1 and 3-6 cm are connected under the ruler.

2. Semi-stand-up collar to the neck with a fastener to the top.

Mid line - the vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. From point A on the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck, – the length of the collar stitching line, and put a point A 1 :

AA 1, = POSH = 18cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.)

From point A lay 5 7 cm along the middle line and put a point a:

Aa = 5-7 cm

Points a and A 1 connect an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. Divisions represent / and //. From the point /, restore the perpendicular upwards and lay 0.7 cm on it.From the middle of the segment between the points A 1, and // draw down a perpendicular on which 0.4 cm is laid. Points a, 0.7 cm, //, 0.4 cm and A 1 connect with a smooth curve.

Departure cut. From point a 8-10 cm are laid up along the middle line - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point A 1 to straight aA 1 . Put the points accordingly V and IN 1 .

aB= A 1 V 1 = 8-10 cm

Points V and V 1 is connected with an auxiliary straight line, which continues to the right by 2-4 cm (the size of the corner protrusion). From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore the perpendicular upward, on which 2-2.5 cm is laid.A smooth curve emerging from the point V at right angles to the line segment AB, connect the dots V, 2-2.5 cm and 2-4 cm. Points 2-4 cm and A 1 connect under the ruler.

3.Single stand collar.

Build a right angle with the apex A, whose sides are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

Middle line- the vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. From point A on the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm, - the length of the line of stitching in the collar and put a point A 1:

AA 1 = POSH + 0.5 = 18 + 0.5 = 18.5 cm

From point A 1 to the right horizontally lay 2-2.5 cm - the allowance for the half-line and put a point A 2:

AA 2 = 2-2.5cm

From point A lay 2-4 cm along the middle line and put a point a:

Aa= 2-4 cm

Points a and A 1 connect an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. Divisions represent / and //. From the point /, restore the perpendicular upwards and lay 0.5 cm on it.From the middle of the segment between the points A 1 and // draw down a perpendicular on which 0.2 cm is laid. A 2 by 0.3-0.5 cm.Dots 0.3-0.5 cm, A 1 , 0.2 cm, //, 0.5 cm and a connect with a smooth curve.

Rack. From points A 1 , and A 2 2.5-3.5 cm are laid up vertically - the height of the rack and the points are set accordingly a 1 and a 2:

A 1 a 1 = A 2 a 2= 2.5-3.5 cm

The protrusion of the rack can be formed with a rounded curve connecting the points a 1 and 0.3-0.5 cm.

Departure cut. From point a up along the middle line lay 7-9 cm - the width of the collar at the back and put a point V:

aB= 7-9 cm

From point V A 1 , denote by the letter V 1 . Line BB 1 continue to the right by 1-4 cm and put a point IN 2 .

V 1 V 2 = 1-4 cm

Point IN 2 a 1 ; the line continues up and on it from the point a 1 lay 7-15 cm - the length of the corner; put a point v:

A 1 in = 7-15 cm

Section BB 1 divided into 3 parts and the right dividing point is connected by a smooth curve with a point v.

4.Collar with a detachable stand.

Build a right angle with the apex A, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

Middle line- the vertical side of the corner.

Line for stitching the rack into the neck. From point A to the right, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point A 1 |:

AA 1 = POSH + 0.5 = 18 + 0.5 = 18.5 cm

From point A 1 restore the perpendicular upward, on which they lay 2-4 cm and put a point A 2 :

A 1 A 2 = 2-4 cm

Point A connect under a ruler with a point A 2 , the line continues to the right by 2-2.5 cm (allowance for half-skewer) and put a point A 3 ;

A 2 A 3 = 2-2.5 cm

Line AA 2 divided in half. From the point of division, a perpendicular is restored downward, on which 1 cm is laid.The edge of the half-slug is raised from the point A 3 0.5 cm.Dots 0.5 cm, A 2.1 cm and A connect with a smooth curve.

Top cut of the rack. From point A lay along the middle line 3-4 cm-the height of the rack and put a point a:

Aa = 3-4 cm

From points A 2 and A 3, restore upward perpendiculars to the cut AA 3, on which they lay 2.5-3 cm, and put points accordingly a 1 and a 2 .

A 2 a 1 = A 3 a 2 = 2.5-3 cm

Points a and a 1, connect with an auxiliary straight line. From its middle, a perpendicular is restored downward, on which 1 cm is laid. a, 1 cm and a 1 connect with a smooth curve. The protrusion of the rack can be made with a rounded line connecting the points a and 0.5 cm.

Collar stitching line make out with the same bend as the upper cut of the rack. Build it as follows. From point a 1, swipe to the left horizontal line, which is the axis of symmetry. Its intersection with the middle line is denoted by the letter v. From point v up along the middle line, lay a segment equal to av, and put a point v 1 :

cc 1 = aw

Point v 1 connect the auxiliary line to the point a 1 . Section a 1 v 1 divide in half and from the point of division restore the perpendicular upwards, on which 1 cm is laid. Points in 1 , 1 cm and a 1 connect with a smooth curve.

Departure cut. From point v 1 up along the middle line lay 4-5 cm - the width of the departure and put a point in 2:

V 1 v 2 = 4-5 cm

From point v 1 draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from a point a 1 denote by letter v 3. Line v 2 v 3 continue to the right by 1-5 cm and put a point v 4:

v 3 v 4 = 1-5 cm

Point v 4 connect under a ruler with a point a 1 The line continues up and on it from the point a 1, lay off 9-14 cm - angle length; put a point v 5:

a 1 a 5 = 9-14 cm

Section v 2 v 3 divided into 3 parts and the right dividing point of the smooth curve is connected to the point v 5 .

5.Cut-off stand-up collar.

Build a right angle with the apex A, whose sides are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

Line, middle - the vertical side of the corner.

Top cut and seam line. From point A along the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point A 1 ,:

A A 1 = POSH + 0.5 = 18 + 0.5 = 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.

From point A along the middle line, lay 3-4 cm - the width of the collar and put a point V:

AB= 3-4 cm

From point V draw an auxiliary horizontal line to the right, and from the point A 1 upward vertical. Their intersection is denoted by the letter V 1 .

The front edge of the rack can be raised by 1 cm. To do this, from the points A 1 and V 1 up vertically lay 1 cm each. AA 1 and BB 1 divided into 3 parts and the right dividing points are connected in pairs by smooth curves with dots of 1 cm. The length of the upper cut at the middle of the front is reduced by 0.5 cm.

The stand-up collar has many options. Set-in stand-up collar in the form of a rectangular strip lags slightly behind the neck. To build it, you need the length of the neckline and the height of the rack. The upper cut line is parallel to the seam line.

If you want to give the collar a funnel shape, the stitching line is bent in the same way in the opposite direction.

The collar-collar pattern also has a rectangular shape, but its height is twice the height of the stand. A collar pattern of this type is usually built with a slightly widened neckline. Cut it out at an angle of 45 ° to the warp threads and double width, that is, the upper and lower collars are cut from one single piece of fabric, placing the departure line in the fold of the material.

Patterns of collars that turn into a bow or scarf are built similarly to a collar-collar and a rectangular stand, but the height and length of the collar are chosen depending on the model and type of fabric.

Fancy models of stand-up collars.

What makes clothes more interesting and original? Details, of course. (ascot collar), which has English roots, is an excellent confirmation of this. Thanks to its great variety, it is able to transform even the most common product. Add zest, femininity and charm to it.

In modern fashion, this collar has firmly established itself in the women's wardrobe. But, like many objects and details, he got there from the masculine. And today no one can be surprised by men's clothes in a women's wardrobe. Women have long considered them theirs entirely.

The history of this collar dates back to the English village, 40 km from London, which is called Ascot. The fact is that since the 17th century, the largest horse races in Europe have taken place there. Horse races are still held today at the city's Ascot Racecourse once a year at the end of June.

One of the unusual details male suit, for such events, there was an oblique ribbon made of expensive fabric, tied around the neck. She was decorated beautiful brooches decorated with pearls and stones. Subsequently, this detail turned into a men's neck tie, which was tied around the neck and the ends were hidden under the shirt.

Coco Chanel, known for her love of men's things, took over many details in the women's wardrobe. And the ascot collar was one of them. She turned it into a bow and tied it elegantly around the lady's neck.

In the second half of the last century, fashion designers decided that the ascot collar could be made more variable. Thus, women have another opportunity to diversify their images. During - - - ies this collar model, one way or another, was present in women's products.

V modern interpretation this model of collar - stand is a long strip of fabric sewn to the neckline. It is cut out either along the oblique or along the lobar thread. Its ends can be tied in different ways, depending on their length. Their width can also be different. Thus, at the base of the neck, you can tie a bow, tie or an original knot, in the form of a flower, for example.

The dimensions of this part can vary greatly. Either it is a bow with long and narrow wings, or it is a huge bow that covers almost the entire bodice. In the latter case, it plays an active role and becomes the center of the composition.

The ascot collar fits perfectly into the business style. A blouse with a graceful bow will always make the image more gentle and romantic than a shirt buttoned up to the very top. So either a blouse with this collar model is very good decision for those ladies who want to look feminine at work.

This collar is suitable for blouses, dresses and cardigans. Due to the variability of use, the product will look different in each case. A collar that turns into a tie will add a business-like look and pull the figure up. on the contrary, it will make a woman more graceful.

Designers offer many of the most different ways embedding an ascot collar into the product. I bring to your attention some of them.

As you can see, the necklines, collar sizes, tying methods and combinations with other collars delight with variety and give unexpected results... There is a great opportunity to choose the option that suits the most. Even the position of the bow can change and move from a central position to an asymmetric one.

To many, such details are reminiscent and this is quite justified. But everything is new, it is well forgotten old. If there are moments that can emphasize feminine attractiveness and add zest and charm to the image, you must certainly use them.

Is there an ascot collar in your wardrobe?

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Surprisingly, there is still no uniform classification of collars for outerwear (despite the fact that this detail is more than 500 years old!). Some divide them by the way they are combined with the neck into set-in and one-piece cut, others by the type of fastener into open and closed, still others are perplexed at all: “How can you combine a hundred different styles where every collar is a small masterpiece of tailor's art ?! " The most general "breakdown" is given in the textbooks on cutting and sewing: "Models of outerwear can have standing, standing-turn-down, flat-lying, jacket and fancy types of collars." Let's stop at it.

1. Standing collars

The uprights were the first collars to appear on outerwear. In the 13th century, they were narrow strips of fabric - no more than two centimeters - on Burgundy cloaks and jackets. At that time, jackets were called warmed trapezoidal jackets of knights, worn under armor. From the 15th century, standing collars began to grow in height and breadth, resulting in the appearance of such phantasmagoric styles as the "millstone". It is said that the edge of this starched pleated collar was so cruel that without removing it, it was impossible to reach your mouth with your hand. And I wanted to eat. Therefore, the Italians, who had a special love for the "millstone", had to invent a fork.

Today the stand is used mainly for sewing outerwear, and its height varies between 2-5 centimeters. The most popular types of stanchions are “mandarin”, “clamp” and “pipe”.

"Mandarin" (aka "Chinese" and "Mao")

Already from the name it is clear that this collar came to us from Imperial China, a country with a strict hierarchical ladder and the same strict dress code. For a long time, “mandarins” were called officials and civil servants who wear suits with a short, tight-fitting neck, stand-up collar, the edges of which either touch in the middle, or run over each other a little.

A coat with such a collar will surely appeal to women who know a lot about the subtle beauty of the East or who prefer clothes in a minimalist style. And in men's collections "Mao" - as a symbol of authoritarianism and power - is most often found on brutal picots, uniforms as strict as those of Napoleonic marshals and laconic denim jackets.

"Clamp"

"Clamp", as this type of needlewoman and fashion designers affectionately call it, softens the lines of a classic coat, gives it a touch of charming femininity. In recent years, the collar-collar increasingly prefers to perform solo, becoming a separate item of women's wardrobe.

"Pipe" and its kind "Funnel"

The same as the "collar", but made of a tougher fabric, without numerous cozy folds and waves.

2. Standing-turn

They consist of two parts: a hidden stand and a visible pointed or, conversely, rounded departure.

3. Flat-lying

Purely female collars, which were brought into fashion ... by a man. The cutesy king of England, Henry III, was passionate about dressing up. And also to scent, wear white stockings and curl your hair. Once, the king thought that the popular "millstones" were very heavy and not elegant enough and ordered a camisole with a light lace collar to be made for himself. Well, what the head of state wears is worn by everyone. Later, such collars were sewn from satin and velvet, for greater beauty they were pinned with a brooch and tied with a ribbon.

4. Blazers

These are collars that have passed to outerwear from formal suits, men's jackets and tailcoats.

English collar

The most popular and perfect coats of all time are English collar coats similar to these models. Strict and elegant as an aristocrat of England, he has been out of fashion and time for three centuries in a row, it is not for nothing that almost all coats of the President of Russia are decorated with this respectable collar!
First appearing as a part of men's clothing, the English collar has become, and still remains, an integral part of the business style, for both men and women. He has more and more fans due to the fact that he fits well into any dress code. It occurs in many forms women's clothing: coats, dresses, blouses, which allows you to diversify your office wardrobe... If we talk about a coat with such a collar, then for a successful set it is recommended to wear a turtleneck under it or cover your neck with a beautifully tied scarf, but do not leave it open, especially in cold weather.

Schalke

East and West are fighting for the right to call him their own. The former argue that the national Chinese robes had a similar collar shape, the latter are sure that the “shalke” is an invention of the Byzantines, who have long loved to decorate the sides of outerwear with fur. Of these disputes, only one thing is known for sure: in the old days, only a rich and noble person could afford a shawl collar. (The poor preferred more practical styles).

"Apache"

Wide open rectangular collar, vaguely reminiscent of a jack in shape. It was popular in Russia in the 60s of the last century. In Europe, he has been known for a long time, but is considered the collar of rebellious youth and hooligans - apaches. These young people from the country of noble wines and tangled streets wore such wide collars to show their independence, a disdainful attitude towards the "stranglehold" - tie, because it was simply impossible to put it on an "apache" shirt!

5. Fantasy

2) You already have a pair of classic coats and lack an original cut for a special occasion.

Need a coat with an unusual collar? Pay attention to the following novelties of the PokupkaLux online store: