Do-it-yourself sweatpants. How to hem trousers with a blind seam. Processing methods depend

18.06.2019

I will not presume to judge how relevant the topic of how to hem pants on your own is nowadays, especially when you consider that any center selling clothes has on its territory special departments for minor repairs, where they will quickly and relatively inexpensively perform the necessary work. However, it is possible that there are those who want to master this rather simple process, because today almost everyone wears trousers, and it is not always possible to buy a finished product that is ideally suited in length, so there will always be plenty of such work in the house.

How Before giving advice, I would like to clarify what kind of trousers we are talking about. The hemming technique directly depends on the style, fabric structure, style, and also on whether they are male or female. As for jeans, there are some secrets here, because if you cut them in the usual way, then the spectacular branded edge will disappear, without which they will not look. The work will also depend on how much you want to shorten them.

And now I will talk about how to hem. Consider the option of hemming a model from a dense one, for example, Before starting work, you need to properly measure (here the saying “Measure seven times, cut one” is very appropriate, especially with little experience) , by how many centimeters you need to shorten the legs, and for this you need an assistant. This should be done in the shoes with which you will wear these trousers. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that when they are worn, they are "pulled up" a little, since we constantly sit down and bend our knees.

Once you've determined the length you want, mark this area with tailor's chalk or dry remnants. Now the pants need to be removed and laid out on the table. Take a ruler, measure the required number of centimeters from the bottom of the legs and draw lines - this is the finished length. It is necessary to leave a hem allowance and draw a second line along which we will trim. We draw it at a distance of 4 cm below the first.

On finished products of this type, the edge is usually overlapped and sewn with a blind seam. Most likely you do not have an overlocker, since those who do have one will not be interested in the question of how to hem the pants. Such equipment is usually available from experienced seamstresses or tailors.

Now your task will be to overcast the edge. If you have a sewing machine, you are sewing using a zigzag operation. This, of course, is not a branded finish, but for such a case it will do quite well, especially since on dense fabrics "zigzag" turns out to be tolerable. There are two ways to do this. Trim the pant legs first, then overcast, or sew along the second bottom line first, and then trim carefully so as not to damage the threads.

When the overedge is ready, it needs to be steamed through a damp cloth as the zigzag will lightly shave off the fabric. At the same time, try to drive the iron only along the very edge so as not to erase the fold line drawn with chalk or soap.

It's time to sweep the allowance, making a fold along the marked line. On dense woolen trousers, as a rule, do not fit. How do I sew my pants by hand? This will require accuracy and diligence. If the fabric is loose and uneven in color, then it will be easier to work, since the puncture marks will not be noticeable on the front side. If the fabric has a pure color and a smooth surface, then there is a risk of the appearance of dots on the "face" in the places of the stitching. Therefore, we choose the thinnest needle and thread, while the second must be strong.

Now directly about using your hands You need to start at any vertical seam and move from right to left. Keep the leg edge away from you. First, fasten the thread to the vertical seam allowance, then insert the needle under the zigzag stitch from the wrong side about 1 cm, pull the thread and hook one leg of the leg with the needle in the place where the allowance adjoins, pull out and insert the needle again by the threads " zigzag ". Continue doing this until you have fully sewn. In this case, the thread should not be tightened - the allowance should not be tightly pressed against the leg. This will make the punctures less noticeable and the hem will be more accurate.

Finally, iron the allowance and arrows. Through a damp cloth, we draw an iron along the edge of the fold, without going over the bent section of the leg, otherwise it will be imprinted on the "face".

You have to do this kind of work if you cut your trousers much, for example, by 10 cm. If you need to shorten it by 1.5 - 2 centimeters, then the task is greatly simplified, since the trousers do not need to be cut. For tight trousers, a rather wide hem is allowed. This way, you don't have to overcast the hem and it stays branded. In this case, you need to rip off the existing allowance, steam out the fold, outline a new hem line, baste, sew manually with a blind stitch and iron it.

As you can see, hemming trousers at home is not difficult at all. It will take a couple of workouts on the strength, and then the process will improve.

The processing of the bottom of men's trousers is carried out by sewing along the bottom of the trousers with a special tape. This is the only correct way to handle the hem of the trousers. A trouser tape or a trouser tape, first of all, protects the fabric of the trousers from abrasion, and secondly, it stiffens the lower part of men's trousers. The braid is not used in women's trousers.

The hem with a stitched tape is sewn with a blind stitch by hand or on a special sewing machine that is used only in the atelier.
Processing the bottom of trousers with adhesive tape (cobweb) is short-lived and after several washes you still have to hem the trousers with threads.

On how to properly hem trousers on a sewing machine using a trouser tape.
The master class was performed on a training sample that imitates a trouser leg. Contrasting threads are used for clarity.

The hem of men's trousers should be at least 4 cm, and for children's trousers, 5 - 6 cm can also be noted.

The advantage of the trouser tape is that it keeps the fabric in the place of its fold from wiping, and after six months or a year, the hem can be turned off and made smaller (2cm). Having performed such a trouser repair, you can increase the leg length by 3-4 cm, and at the same time extend the period of wearing children's trousers for another season, saving on the purchase of new trousers for your child.

If you have an overlock at home, then, of course, it is best to overcast the cut of the leg fabric. If there is no overlock, then you can use a zigzag stitch, but it is much better to choose an overlock stitch in combination with a special foot, imitating an overlock seam.

It is good if your sewing machine has the ability to detach or fold the work surface (table). Without a table, it is much more convenient to attach a trouser tape along a narrow trouser leg.

A hem line must be drawn, preferably with a thin fabric pencil. Along this line, you need to attach the sealed edge of the trouser tape.

The first line must be laid strictly along the edge of the tape by 0.1 or 0.2. The more precisely you perform this operation, the neater the hem of the trousers will look when finished and ironed.

Going in a circle along the leg, leave a small piece of tape to neatly close the cut of the tape.

If the tape cut is not covered in this way, the edge of the tape will become frizzy over time.

Without removing the needles from the fabric, turn 90 degrees and sew this section.

You can now start sewing the second stitch along the other edge of the trouser tape. It is no longer necessary to sew it with a minimum indent from the edge (0.1), it does not affect the appearance of the hem.

It is not necessary to tie the trouser tape to the leg with thread, even if you are inexperienced. But it is important to properly tighten the tape while sewing to the leg.
If the tape is not pulled at all, then the fabric of the pant leg will sit down, and then the tape will puff up. If the braid, on the contrary, is pulled unnecessarily, then as a result, the hole in the leg will be too tight and this will be very noticeable on the trousers.

Therefore, it is advisable to learn how to pull both fabric and tape at the same time. In this case, you will avoid over-fitting the fabric of the trousers and the tape. However, do not pull too hard, or the needle may break.

Hemming of jeans and hemming of men's trousers is done differently. In addition to stitching the braid, you will also need to sew the hem with a blind hand seam.
Fold the hem inside the leg as shown in the photo.

You will now need a sleeve ironing shoe and a steam iron.

Before ironing, make the trouser tape "protrude" 0.1 or 0.2 from the edge of the fabric.

This is what the hem of the trousers will look like after wet heat treatment.

You will need a thin and not long needle, thin and not twisted threads that match the main tone of the pants fabric, and a thimble.

From the side of the leg, try to grab two or three threads of the fabric with the point of the needle, no more. Otherwise, the thread will be visible on the front of the pants.

But you can safely grab the hem with a needle.

This is what the finished hemming stitch will look like. It is important to note here that the blindstitch thread should not be overtightened. Otherwise, the trace of this seam will be visible on the front of the trousers. It is advisable, while sewing, to tighten the thread only slightly, removing its excess, but leaving some slack in the stitches.

If you managed to hem men's trousers in the same way as in my photo, then the trouser tape, which does not even match the color of the fabric of the pants, will not be particularly noticeable under the hem. Therefore, in the atelier, black tape is most often used. But you can search in stores for sewing accessories, braid that exactly matches the color of your trousers.

Last but not least, don't use a glue spider web to hem your trousers. It is convenient to use a spider web for temporary fastening of a hem, since the effect of the glue is limited to 2-3 washes. The water will weaken the glue and the hem of the trousers will still have to be manually sewn with a blind seam.

There are several ways to finish the bottom of jeans. In this article, you will learn how to restore the frayed bottom of men's jeans.

The sequence of actions when changing (shortening) the length of the trousers depends on the type of fabric of the product. For example, hemming trousers made from lightweight knitted fabrics will differ slightly from hemming classic trousers made from natural or mixed fabrics. In addition, new products made from natural fabrics must first be steamed or soaked in hot water. This is done to determine the degree of possible shrinkage of the trousers.

Work begins with determining the desired length of the product on one leg. This should be done in the same shoes in which the pants are supposed to be worn. It will be better if someone else measures the required length. The length you choose should look good in different body positions. Tailor's pins, a crayon or a special marker should be used to mark. The pants are removed and the desired length is measured on the other leg. Sometimes the hem line is made slightly obliquely, slightly increasing the length of the product at the back. The bottom of the trousers is folded, steamed with an iron, marked with stitches. Now you need to draw two lines, marking the bottom of the product and the place where the excess fabric is cut. The hem allowance should be 4-5 cm. The size of the allowance depends on the density of the fabric, the thicker the fabric, the more its margin should be. It is also important to take into account how the cut of fabric will be processed: bend inward or overcast on a typewriter with a special stitch (overlock). In the second case, the supply of fabric for the hem may be less. Then the excess part of the fabric is cut off along the lower line, if necessary, the cut of the fabric is processed with an overlock. When hemming trousers made of dense fabrics, the trouser tape is sewn along the hem line, picking it up in color. It is necessary to sew the braid (with two lines) 1 mm below the marked line, so that in the future, when wearing the product, the bottom of the trousers will wear out less. That is, as a result, after the trousers are tucked in, the braid should "look out" by 1 mm. When combining the sides of the braid, it is better not to tuck its edges, but to overlap, having previously singed the sections of the braid with a burning match. It is important to take into account that the trouser tape tends to shrink after washing, therefore, before using it, it must either be soaked in hot water or well steamed with a hot iron. The trousers can now be folded up (once if the hem has already been overlocked) and hemmed. They do it in different ways. With adhesive tape (cobweb). The tape is laid inside the fold and steamed with an iron through cheesecloth. This method is not durable, as the adhesive tape gradually loses its properties after washing. In addition, adhesive tape, due to its stiffness, is undesirable for use on knitted or lightweight fabrics. Use of duct tape can be combined with subsequent manual blind stitching.

You can hem the pants on a typewriter. This option is suitable for heavyweight natural or mixed fabrics such as jeans or sweatpants. In this case, the line can act as a decorative element.

Hello dear friends! Today I want to turn to a moment that occurs in the life of almost every person. Bought trousers, but they don't fit in length. Legs dangle on the floor, or gather in a huge accordion around the foot. Of course, they need to be shortened.
There are quite a few ways, but they all depend on the model of the trousers. This primarily applies to classic models, on which the mark from the hem should not be visible.
How do you sew your trousers by hand? And how to do it beautifully on a sewing machine?

The first way. Manually

For example, I took men's pants. I will note one nuance. In order for the work not to be done in vain, you first need to very carefully measure the length of the trousers on a specific person who will wear them in the future.

If you do not have this opportunity, then you can take other trousers of this person and measure the length of the leg along the step seam, which is located on the inside of the trousers. This time I did just that. With soap, I mapped out the desired length and got to work.

For convenience, I transferred the mark to the outside of the leg and laid the trousers flat on the table.

The next step I measured the right angles with a corner, which coincide with the position of the mark and the direction of the arrows on the back and front halves of the pants. Drew straight lines.

Then the resulting line needs to be floated a little in its middle part.

From the resulting line down, I set aside 3.5 cm. This is the minimum value that should be set aside.

There are several reasons for this:

Trousers can suddenly sit down and have to be folded. We need a supply.
Less hem gives a visible seal.
In order for both legs to be cut equally, they must be folded exactly along the entire length of the trousers, and sometimes it does not interfere and pierce with needles from top to bottom. Be sure to connect both legs with needles along the marked fold line.

Now you can safely cut it off. If it is difficult to cut four layers of fabric at once, then do it gradually. First cut off the excess length on one leg and then on the other.

I transferred the position of the needles with soap to the other side.

I did the same thing separately with each leg. Although you can do this with the help of a centimeter tape, measuring 3.5 cm from the bottom along the inside of the trousers. For a high-quality hem, it is advisable to process the resulting lower cut with an overlock, and thread the tails of the threads with a hook inside the line.

After that, you can start manual hemming. Turning the trousers to the wrong side, I pinned the width of the hem with needles. Be sure to join the side seams on the hem and on the leg. Similarly, I inserted the needles 1 cm from the top edge of the hem. This must be done so that the pant leg does not move.

Next, I sewed the hem to the leg with a blind stitch. To do this, you need to insert the needle exactly into the stitch from the overlock (you can even get into the stitches themselves) and grab one or two threads of the leg. Then bring the needle back to the overlock line. The distance between punctures should not be more than 0.5 -1 cm. Thus, we hem the trousers along the entire length.

That's what I did. It remains to iron them. If you are dealing with trousers, but which have arrows, then at the beginning, you need to iron out the places where they are.

Turning the pants over to the right side, I ironed the allowance on the inside of the leg. It is undesirable to do this from the face, as an overlock can be printed. We steam the arrows from the front side through a cloth.

That's all. This is where the whole process ends.

Now you know how to sew trousers by hand, and you are sure that if necessary, you can easily cope with this operation.

Of course, for greater confidence that everything will be fine in the future, it is advisable to design a new thing. Either expose it to good steam or wet and dry. This will allow the product to shrink as needed, and will save you from worries in the future. Everyone knows that natural fabrics tend to shrink.

But you can take a chance and hem the trousers without preliminary processing. This is at your discretion.

But, hand hemming of trousers is not always necessary. Often it is enough to do this with a typewriter.

Second way. On a typewriter

How to hem pants on a sewing machine? This question arises quite often in everyday life, but not everyone knows how to deal with it easily. There are many ways of this operation, and it all depends on the model of trousers and the client's wishes. Or from your desire.

I have already talked about how classic trousers are sewn by hand. But, often it is not necessary to do this and you can trim the trousers on a typewriter. It is, of course, faster and easier. On one of these examples, I will show you how to do it correctly and beautifully.

These trousers are made of dense stretch fabric and are almost ready. I grinded all the seams and worked with an overlock. If you do not have such equipment as an overlock, then the seams can be processed manually. In terms of time, it will be longer, but no less neat if the fabric is not very fray.

The trousers are ordinary classic wide leg trousers. I gave the allowance for the hem, which is large enough, equal to 5 cm (at the request of the client). The first thing I did was overlock the bottom of the legs and iron it. This must be done so that the bottom is steamed and leveled, so that there are no bumps and puffs, which can then be imprinted on the front side.

After that, I marked 5 cm from the bottom and drew lines on both legs.

Then she bent the allowance along these lines to the seamy side and stabbed at the very bottom with needles. And from above, stepping back from the edge about 1 cm, I swept it by hand.

After that, I took off all the needles and steamed the hem of the legs from the wrong side. Precisely the edge, without touching the hand basting and overlock seam. If you accidentally hit the stitches, they can dent the fabric. There are materials on which such places are very difficult to restore later.

Then, I twisted the pant legs to the right side and drew lines with soap, at a distance of 4.5 cm from the edge. This is enough to grab the hem. It will hold well and will not dangle inside your trousers.

I sew the final line on the front side according to the markings. This is much more convenient, because you can see both the edge of the legs and the quality of the stitching.

This completes the whole operation and I just have to steam the bottom from the wrong side again.

I showed you how to sew pants on a sewing machine and I hope this tutorial will be useful to you. If you do everything, as I told you, then you will get a very neat and beautiful hem, the quality of which determines the whole appearance of the product as a whole.

The stock should be at least 3 cm wide for it to look decent. Depending on the idea and model, it can reach 6 cm, but not be too wide, so as not to make the legs heavier.

I will be glad if the master - class will help you to cope with this operation without outside help. I wish you success in mastering new skills, knowledge and little sewing tricks!

Very often we are faced with the need to hem trousers. The classic situation: bought pants, they fit well, but do not fit in length. For children during the period of their intensive growth, parents try to buy pants with a margin in order to delay the need for another purchase of clothes for the grown child at least a little. There are countless situations, and there is only one way out, or rather two: either you take the trousers in the atelier, or you are trying to solve the problem yourself. By learning to do this once, you will be relieved of the need to use the services of a tailor every time. So, let's figure out how to hem the pants correctly?

Fitting

To begin with, of course, we need to determine the length of the trousers we need, how much to cut so that instead of trousers we don't get breeches. The best option is to put them on the future owner, it would also be nice with shoes for greater clarity.

Consider the following points when trying on:

If the trousers are of a classic cut, then the back of the leg should be below the middle of the heel on the shoes.
For jeans, you need to leave the leg length slightly over the heel.
For women's flared trousers, the leg should be up to the middle of the heel.
Skinny trousers should be ankle-length.

If it is not possible to try on pants directly on the owner, then you can take other pants of this person and make a mark on them. The mark can be made with soap, chalk, or something else, such as pins.

Important! Having measured the desired length, you need to leave a few centimeters for allowances:
for men's trousers leave 4 cm;
female - 3 cm;
for children, you can leave 5-6 cm.

There are several reasons for this:

Necessarily need a stock, suddenly after washing the pants will shrink a little.
A small hem gives a visible seal.

Leg preparation:

Cut the legs as much as possible. It is best to fasten the legs with pins, combine the side and inner seams and cut two legs at once with scissors.
The cut points are best processed with an overlock, zigzag, or simply sheathe the edges with a loop seam.

Important! This is done so that the threads do not crumble and the edge is neat.

We sew trousers by hand

There are a lot of ways how to properly hem men's trousers, each craftswoman can choose a convenient option for her. Here's one easy one:

You can use a special adhesive tape in the place of the fold, but it must be duplicated with a blind seam, since after the first wash the glue will come off and the tape will fall off. It is used rather for fixation, so that it is convenient to handle the seam.
The trouser leg, turned inside out, is bent 3-4 cm, the fold is smoothed through gauze, then adhesive tape is laid along the edge and ironed on it.
Then the folded part is sewn on with a blind seam. The product is turned inside out and the arrows are ironed with a steam iron or through cheesecloth.

Sewing trousers on a sewing machine

Many people use a trouser tape that holds the fabric in place where it folds. This tape is sewn only on men's trousers. How to hem pants correctly on a sewing machine? It would seem that there is something difficult, took the tape and stitched it on. But there are some tricks here:

It is not necessary to tuck the edge of the tape at the point of its connection, then the butt seam will be very rough. Maybe on tight trousers it will not be very noticeable, but on light fabrics the hem will be stuck. It is better to do this: singe the cut section of the trouser tape, singe it and overlap it.

Important! The braid for trousers is usually synthetic, so it melts well.

When sewing the tape, try to accurately align the edge of the tape with the hem. The top line must be sewn exactly 0.1 m from the edge of the tape so that the tape looks out a little in the finished product. This is to keep the pants from rubbing along the hem.
The color of the tape is best matched to the color of the pants.
When sewing the tape, try not to pull it too tight and make sure that neither the fabric nor the tape shrinks under the presser foot.

Important! It is advisable to pull on both the fabric and the tape at the same time, just do not pull too hard, otherwise the needle may break.

Buy tight-knit trouser tape. It is a little more expensive, but over time, "shaggy" areas will not appear on it.

Important! You can hem the trousers on a typewriter with a blind seam. To do this, you need a special blindstitch foot.

Sewing jeans

Jeans should not be difficult, they are very easy to hem. In this case, the leg is tucked in two turns 1.5 cm wide and sewn with a straight stitch. In order for it to look no different from the factory one, you just need to choose the threads by color.

Important! It is not necessary to take a special thread for jeans, it is not possible to work with it on every machine, many do it simply: they make a double seam with ordinary thread of a suitable color.

It also happens that the pants have an original design and it is necessary to preserve the factory decorative seam in order to preserve the model features of the product. Then you need to consider the option of how to properly hem the trousers while preserving the factory edge. For this:

First you need to determine the desired length of the trousers and put a mark.
Then the factory edge is measured, the mark is moved to the desired distance.
Next, fold the pant leg so as to combine the offset line and the base of the factory edge, then make a line on a sewing machine.
The resulting excess part is cut off and swept over with a zigzag or overlock.
The lapel is attached to the leg with glue tape and an iron.
At the end, a line is laid along the very edge of the combination of the pant leg and the factory design of the bottom of the pants.