What is a men's shirt for? What color to choose? What fabric to choose a shirt from

27.03.2019

The shirt, perhaps, is the same integral part men's wardrobe like the shoes. Just imagine a world where only T-shirts or alcoholic T-shirts are worn - a terrible reality in which the very concept of good taste. It's good that it's not like that. We put on a shirt everywhere and everywhere: on an important business meeting, on a date with a friend, on a party with friends, to a bar, to a cinema, and even when we go to the forest. However, we often make mistakes when buying. The wrong size, the wrong color, the terrible quality of the material - these are just some of the problems that arise due to the banal ignorance of shirt theory. Today we decided to fill this gap in your head and help you make a choice by sharing secret knowledge that has been passed down from generation to generation. If you read carefully, absorb our guide, then in your wardrobe there will always be a couple of great shirts for every occasion, and each of them will fit perfectly. More is not needed.

Brand

The quality of the shirt, no matter what anyone says, directly depends on the brand. Having made a “profitable” deal on the market, you will, of course, save money at first, but in a more serious perspective, you will squander them aimlessly. Chinese shirts are shamelessly torn, wear out quickly, and in general are made of materials that have, apparently, extraterrestrial origin, hence the sweat and discoloration after the third wash. In turn, branded shirts that have half a century of history behind them, or even more, can be worn for decades without any visible damage.

There are many manufacturing companies. Some specialize only in sports representatives, others prefer to make exclusively official shirts. You also need a manufacturer who:
a) thoroughly knows the intricacies of manufacturing technology;
b) has an impeccable history and reputation;
c) whose product does not look pompous, ridiculous or boring.

Based on strict selection criteria, we have chosen a men's and women's clothing(based in the USA), who became famous primarily for his shirts. They have been producing them since 1949, and during the entire existence of the GANT brand, they have radically changed the idea of what the perfect shirt should be several times. They are responsible for the creation of a number of design solutions. An obvious example is the loop on the back, which makes it easy to hang up a shirt without wrinkling it. By the way, at the Ivy League universities (the best educational establishments not only in the United States, but all over the world) it is customary to cut off this noose when you have a steady girlfriend.

Closely connected by their history with the student culture of the States. Mainly because they looked great at the time of passing the session, in front of the professor there was no shame, and at the time of the violent parties of student fraternities. The manufacturer was distinguished by his zeal of innovator, which for the rebellious youth and the new generation successful people has always been a plus.

In addition to the loop on the back, GANT introduced special type collar - botton down. It is a collar with three buttons (1 in the back and 2 in the front). The back button keeps the tie from squirming, and the front button keeps the edges of the shirt straight so they don't fold. Also on shirts bow pleat in the form of a triangle. It is located at the back and was created over 60 years ago. You may be asking why is it needed? The fact is that it was created not for the sake of beauty, but to give more free cut which gives the shirt wearer more freedom of movement. It would seem a trifle, but it seriously affects the sock.

Now GANT regularly releases new lines of shirts that combine both classics and innovations, and, of course, beauty and comfort. We are confident that investing in this brand pays off in any case. This is the case when clothes serve not one or even two seasons, but for many, many years.

Shirt classification

This ubiquitous element of the wardrobe differs, of course, not only in color, but it’s also not necessary to talk about some kind of strict typology. However, there are generally accepted criteria that define a particular shirt in a separate group.

The first thing that comes to mind is the distinction between sports and business (classic) shirts.

In sports, no one goes in for sports, but they are worn everywhere, with the exception of serious official receptions. They differ from the classic ones primarily in terms of fabric. These shirts are made of durable material that can withstand heavy loads, does not require careful handling. The collars are soft. You can work in such shirts, or you can go out for a beer and not seem out of place in the establishment. They wear sports shirts with jeans, weekend trousers and even breeches. Choosing a sports shirt, you get access to an extensive range of colors, a huge database of patterns and various accessories(epaulettes, pockets, fasteners). If there is no strict dress code at work, then a sports shirt is perfect for her.

Dress shirts are made from softer, thinner fabrics, an example of which is oxford fabric. The collar is made rigid so that it is possible to use the shirt with a tie or bow tie. Now there is no such rigor in color as it used to be. Must have in wardrobe White shirt, other colors should be chosen according to your style. There should not be any pockets on the classics, although there is an opinion that one pocket still has the right to exist. We, by the way, fully share this opinion.

Separately, it is worth highlighting a group of Hawaiian shirts. Some consider them a misunderstanding, others beautiful way stand out. If your goal is outrageous and fun, then why not? Hawaiian shirts are the first thing that comes to mind office worker when vacation starts.

Another way to classify shirts is their cut. This topic is quite extensive, given that the cut standards of manufacturers may be different. But we can first distinguish two groups, namely: loose shirts and fitted shirts.

Loose shirts are a tradition that has stood the test of time and are suitable for any body build. Such shirts do not taper to the waist, are straight, can hide excess body fat or, on the contrary, highlight chest. So for frail guys and guys from a thick-skinned tribe, we recommend loose-fitting shirts in the very first place. But always remember that loose shirts should not hang in a bag. This common truth, it seems, few people know.

There are also fitted shirts. They should be worn by those who regularly play sports, have decent muscles and read our fitness section. Such shirts are demanding on their owner, as they open the contours of the body, and excess lard has never painted anyone.

GANT shirts, on the other hand, have shirts that you might like:
– RUGGER HUGGER – fitted and slightly shortened;
- FITTED - tight-fitting, in modern style;
– REGULAR – looser than the “Fitted” cut, in classical style;
- E-Z - light, unobtrusive.

The truth is in the details

Everyone wants to have a versatile, stylish and durable shirt in their closet. The GANT Diamond G line, launched in 2015, provides all these qualities. Colors range from classic white and blue to pink and yellow. As a material, the manufacturer chose the good old oxford fabric and pinpoint. An excellent choice if you value quality.

You have saved money for a decent shirt, chosen the right cut, agreed with our opinion about the brand and are already going to the store. This is where the most important thing begins. It is not enough just to put on a shirt and look at yourself in the mirror, you need to have an idea of the details that we are sure play huge role when using any clothing.

Sleeve length

Short sleeves look ridiculous, and even a couple of centimeters can create such an impression, but long sleeves will always look bad. You need to find a balance that will fit your individual size. The simplest rule that concerns sleeves is the rule thumb. That is, the edge of the sleeve should reach the beginning of the joint of this very finger. open wrist - bad decision when it comes to long sleeved shirts. You can, of course, measure your hand in order to choose a shirt according to numbers, and not personal feelings. To do this, raise any arm to shoulder level, bend at the elbow so that the arm is in horizontal position. Ask your friend to measure from the base of the neck to the elbow, and then from the elbow to the base of the thumb. The output number will be required size sleeves.

Collar
Pay Special attention on the collar: it should not squeeze the neck when the top button is fastened. If you feel a lack of air, then even the “thumb” method (the finger should be placed between the neck and the inside of the collar) will not save. Why big and not index? The fact is that after washing the size of the shirt, as a rule, changes slightly, this should be taken into account when buying.

There are a huge number of types of collars, but we will highlight four that we ourselves like:
- oblique collar - perfect for tight ties;
- button-down collar - loose style, but nevertheless looks neat;
- aristocratic collar - similar to the classic GANT collar, but with a higher neckline;
- shark - great for a tuxedo, you'll be like James Bond.

cuffs
We recommend cuffs that leave room for a bracelet or watch. If you take a shirt with narrow cuffs, then you will lose the opportunity to wear such things. Of course the best option There will be adjustable cuffs.

Shoulder seams
There should be no discomfort in movement, even if you are wearing a fitted, tight-fitting shirt. The seams of a well-chosen shirt must be located in their place, namely: where the shoulders end and the arms begin.

You can and sometimes need to roll up your sleeves. A more informal environment screams at you: "Keep it simple." So it is worth turning up the sleeves by two cuff widths.

Not in every case you have to tuck in your shirt, especially when it comes to shirts. sports type. On the other hand, it’s not the 90s now, and you don’t live in the Bronx, so the length of the shirt should not exceed the middle of the pants pocket, otherwise it’s better to tuck it in after all.

For residents of some cities, from us is not just a gift, but a real gift. We are talking about a promotional code that should be said aloud at the checkout to get a 25% discount! Repeat after me: GANTSHIRTS! The discount applies only to shirts and is valid until June 13 inclusive, only in stores in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kazan.

Be moderate in colors when it comes to everyday life, work and ordinary leisure. Too much bright spots on the shirt - a sign that you are falling into senile insanity. A shirt should always be appropriate.

If you bought a checkered shirt and want to wear a tie with it, then choose a tie so that its pattern does not overlap the pattern of the shirt. The same size of cells is an unfortunate solution.

The shirt cannot live separately from the bottom, and indeed from all your clothes. For this reason, you should buy it with an eye on the entire wardrobe. If it looks phenomenal but doesn't match any of the jeans and trousers you have, then what's the point of buying it?

When trying on, be sure to pay attention to the following details.

gate

The collar of the shirt is framing. If it is chosen unsuccessfully, it will break the whole image. If the collar is too tight, it will compress the neck and cause discomfort. Too loose collar (when four fingers are placed between the neck and collar) also looks bad. Perfect option- when two fingers fit freely between the collar and the neck.

Shoulder seam

If shoulder seam too high means the shirt is too small for you. If it hangs too low, then the shirt is too big. Ideally, the shoulder seam should be located where the arm meets the shoulder joint to allow for freedom of movement.

Landing

If the fabric on the chest is very stretched, then the shirt is small for you. If the tucked-in edges of the shirt hang over the belt or the shirt looks baggy, then it's too big for you. Look for smaller size or another brand. Ideally matching shirt should taper towards the middle, repeating the outlines of the figure.

Sleeve width

Sleeves should not be too tight, otherwise they will restrict freedom of movement. Too loose sleeves, the fabric of which hangs down, is also an unsuitable option. The sleeves of the ideal width fit close enough to the arm, while no more than 2.5-5 centimeters of fabric remain free.

cuffs

If the cuffs are very tight around the wrists, the shirt is too small for you. If the arm passes freely through the buttoned cuffs, the shirt is large. In both cases, you can change the button, but first try on a shirt in a different size. If you normally wear watches, find the perfect cuffs for them.

Sleeve length

If the sleeves end above the knuckle of the wrist, they are too short for you. Try on shirts from other brands. If the sleeves partially cover the palm, they will have to be shortened. Ideal sleeves cover only the wrist.

Hem length

If the shirt barely covers the belt, it is short for you. If the hem also covers the fly, then it is long, try on a smaller size. Ideally, the hem should end a few inches below the belt so that the shirt won't come out when you raise your arms.

Just remember that no ready-made shirt from the store can fit perfectly. For her to sit, you have to take her to the studio.

When trying on, be sure to pay attention to the following details.

gate

The collar of the shirt is framing. If it is chosen unsuccessfully, it will break the whole image. If the collar is too tight, it will compress the neck and cause discomfort. Too loose collar (when four fingers are placed between the neck and collar) also looks bad. The ideal option is when two fingers fit freely between the collar and neck.

Shoulder seam

If the shoulder seam is too high, then the shirt is too small for you. If it hangs too low, then the shirt is too big. Ideally, the shoulder seam should be located where the arm meets the shoulder joint to allow for freedom of movement.

Landing

If the fabric on the chest is very stretched, then the shirt is small for you. If the tucked-in edges of the shirt hang over the belt or the shirt looks baggy, then it's too big for you. Look for a smaller size or another brand. An ideal shirt should taper towards the middle, repeating the outlines of the figure.

Sleeve width

cuffs

Sleeve length

Hem length

Just remember that no ready-made shirt from the store can fit perfectly. For her to sit, you have to take her to the studio.

We decided to dedicate this article to women, without whom modern men, alas, nowhere. So, we present to your attention a small guide to men's shirts and sizes for a real hostess: how to choose a shirt for a man in size?

Every man should have at least a couple of stylish and high-quality shirts. Even if his work does not involve official dress code they will come in handy anyway. There are many occasions: weddings, birthdays, social events, funerals…

The choice of shirt must be approached with all seriousness, given several important rules. ABOUT men's sizes clothes you can read here, and in this article we will look at some of the nuances that will help you choose a good shirt.

Measuring the circumference of the neck
This is the most important thing, since the size of the shirt in inches or centimeters will primarily correspond to this particular parameter. Just do not forget that there should be a small distance between the collar and the neck, equal to the thickness of the finger.

If your man has a strong, thickened neck to the bottom, then a one and a half centimeter distance will visually lengthen it. For a thin neck, a distance of one centimeter will be more than enough, because a larger gap will only emphasize thinness.

Calculate sleeve length

Ask the man to bend his arm at the elbow, and raise the elbow horizontally at shoulder level, parallel to the waist. Please note that you need to measure only the bent arm.

Attach the measuring tape to the base of the neck, then slowly stretch it along the arm to the base of the man's thumb.

How else can you choose a men's shirt size?

Be sure to ensure that the seam connecting the sleeve to the shoulder is clearly at the edge of the shoulder. If the seam is lower, then you have chosen too big shirt, above - on the contrary, too small.

Also, the shirt should be long enough so that your man can easily tuck it into his trousers by about ten centimeters. It is under these conditions that it will sit perfectly, and not look stretched like a guitar string, and will not try to climb out after each movement.

What other nuances should be considered when choosing a men's shirt?

After you have learned how to choose a shirt size, let's move on to " technical specifications» of this wardrobe item.

Collar

With the help of a properly selected collar shape, you can very successfully adjust your face. If your man's face is narrow, then he fit collar with shortened or slightly rounded corners. The classic collar hides perfectly full face, and a small chin visually enlarges the collar with elongated corners. An overly elongated neck is perfectly hidden by a high collar.

Pay attention to the presence of a plate in the collar. A good shirt in the collar must have a plate - this prevents loss of shape after washing.

shirt material

The classic version is soft cotton. Such material "breathes" in the heat, looks attractive and is also very pleasant to the body. True, cotton has one drawback - it quickly wrinkles.

For winter and autumn, a cotton shirt with the addition of synthetics is perfect. Models made of such material are worn well, almost do not wrinkle, and are easy to iron and wash. By appearance they are indistinguishable from pure cotton, but on a hot summer day a man will not be very comfortable in such a shirt. Main advantage synthetic material- Divorces and stains from sweat are practically not noticeable on it.

Sewing

The most important criterion when choosing a shirt: the more stitches per centimeter of the seam, the better the tailoring. A good indicator is eight stitches per centimeter.

Buttons

Of great importance is not only color combination buttons and fabric, but also the location of the buttons. It is worth paying special attention to this nuance if your man is tall and plump. Otherwise, he may encounter such an incident when, with any movement, the bottom button slips out from under the belt and exposes his stomach.

Make sure that the last button is sewn no less than eight centimeters below the belt. One of the indicators of a quality shirt is hand-stitched buttonholes.

cuffs

Make sure that the cuffs of the shirt do not fit snugly against the arm, so that the man can easily look at his watch. The cuff should stick out from under the sleeve of the jacket no more than one centimeter. Sleeve length is below the wrist.

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