Tajik national costumes. Pictures on the theme “Tajik national costume. Women's national clothes of Tajiks

16.10.2019

Despite the fact that a certain part of Tajiks, especially in cities and workers' settlements, now wear widespread urban dress and shoes, the national Tajik costume continues to be used, mainly among the rural female population. To the greatest extent, it has been preserved in remote mountainous areas.

Women's costume in the mountainous regions (Karategin and Darvaz) consists of a dress-shirt-kurt, sharovar - ezor or poitsom, a quilted robe - tsoma, a headscarf - rumol (numol), soba, dock. In recent years, in the regional centers, they also began to wear a camisole - outerwear in the form of a coat narrow at the waist, borrowed from the inhabitants of the plains. Shirts are usually sewn from paper and silk factory fabrics, plain white, colored, or from printed chintz and satin with bright ornaments; in some places there are also kurtas made of handicraft paper and silk fabrics. The tunic-like cut of the kurta serves as both underwear and outerwear; they sew it from one piece of fabric folded in half on the shoulders; beveled wedges are inserted into the sides, the sleeves are made long and straight along the entire length and sewn to the main panel.

Most of all, the shirts differ from one another in the cut of the collar, which is associated with their name: shirts with a wedge-shaped deep cut on the chest - peschokak, with a standing collar with pleated assembly - parpari, with a standing collar without assembly - TsazoTs, a dress with a detachable yoke and a turn-down collar - Uzbek; Previously, a girl's shirt, unlike a woman's, was sewn not with a vertical slit in the front, but with a horizontal slit on the shoulder, now this difference has already disappeared. Shirts for girls and young women were decorated with embroidery along the collar, at the ends of the sleeves, and at the hem.

Women's harem pants are usually wide cut and reach the ankle, the bottom of the legs is folded and hemmed; sometimes it is sheathed with patterned braid - hierosa; wide trousers are often sewn from two types of fabric; the upper part - the bodice is made of handicraft cotton fabric - carbos, the top is folded and hemmed, passing the ribbon. The lower part (legs and wedges in stride) is made of colored chintz, satin, silk, semi-silk fabric bekasab or adras.

Female bathrobe almost does not differ in cut from the man's. In the old days, women in mountainous regions did not wear robes at all; it was believed that a woman did not need outer clothing.

Headscarves are made of white muslin; factory-made white knitted headscarves, silk or half-woolen, are also worn; a scarf is usually large (up to 2 m on each side), it is folded diagonally and thrown over the head with the ends behind the back; young women often tie a headscarf over their foreheads and tie the ends at the back of their heads. Recently, women began to wear skullcaps - totsi, which was not customary before. Women comb their hair in a parted part, then weave thin pigtails in front - a stove, braiding the forehead, and also on the sides, above the ears - thorak; the main two braids weaving behind the ears are called geese; thorak braids are braided to them. Artificial ones made of simple or woolen threads of black color - chura, kokul, ending in tassels of multi-colored threads and beads, are usually woven into their own braids.

Shoes are now worn mainly from the factory, mostly shoes or rubber galoshes with pointed toes. Sometimes they also wear mousey - soft shoes with high tops, worn with galoshes, which at one time was borrowed from the Tatars. Sometimes there are also ancient local wooden kaugi shoes with three spikes. In the warm season, shoes are worn on bare feet, and in the cold season, on woolen ornamented uurob stockings; local women knit such stockings from multi-colored woolen threads.

A permanent adornment for women is beaded necklaces - gulu-bandakj necklace - muura, which are made of coins and coral beads. They also use bracelets - metal and made of beads, some beads are given a magical meaning; rings are also worn, sometimes with a colored glass eyelet.

The man's suit consists of from a shirt, wide trousers, robe, belt scarf and skullcap. Shirts and trousers are now sewn from light factory fabrics. Men's shirt - kurtai kitfak has the same cut as the women's kurta, only they make it shorter, with slightly narrower short sleeves, sometimes slightly beveled, with a semicircular cut on the neck and a horizontal slit along one of the shoulders (there are shirts with a vertical cut on the left side of the chest). Another type of shirt, kurtai yaktagy, was widely adopted, possibly borrowed from the population of the Fergana Valley. Pants - ezor are made, like women's, at the back, wide at the top and tapering at the bottom, but shorter than women's. The shirt is worn outside, over the pants and girded with a large scarf folded diagonally - a glove or a chorsu embroidered along the edges (literally - four sides). A robe is put on over the shirt and trousers. An unlined summer robe used to be made from a special handicraft cotton fabric - satrash (in its texture resembling a waffle towel), and now - from a factory fabric called yaktagy. In winter they wear quilted robes made of colored factory fabrics, lined. However, the most typical male outerwear for mountainous regions in cold weather is wide trousers - hyoraza and a wide wrap-around robe with very long sleeves - chakman; both are sewn from handicraft narrow woolen fabric - raza, very dense and solid workmanship; the collar of the chakman is decorated with an ornament of colored woolen threads; Chakman and Shoragza have a natural coat color - white, black or brown. Shoragza and chakman are usually worn in cold weather or on a long journey, while the robe worn under the chakman is also tucked into the shoragza. In winter, a belt scarf is usually worn over a quilted robe or chakman.

The headdress of men of all ages is a skullcap. A cone-shaped skullcap with a round band is typical for mountainous regions; such a skullcap is sewn, and into the stitches diverging from its top, between the top of the skullcap and the lining, a vatapilta rolled into a tight roller is inserted for strength; along the rim, the line goes around in horizontal rows. In most cases, skullcaps are embroidered with floral or geometric patterns; the band is sheathed with an ornamented braid sheroza, sir, embroidered with a chain stitch. In recent years, the skullcap has penetrated into the mountainous regions (see below). The turban, common in other regions, is hardly worn in the mountains.

In cold weather, the head is wrapped over the skullcap with a woolen scarf or fur hats are worn. Men, as a rule, shave their heads, Tajiks in national clothes. Northern leaving the mustache; a beard is grown at an older age.

Mountain Tajiks wear colored djurab woolen stockings. The calves of the legs, especially on a long journey, are tightly bandaged with a wide band - as if, according to the existing idea, gives the leg strength when walking. Shoes made of rawhide leather - chorutz, or mukki, made of more carefully crafted leather, are sewn from two halves, with a seam in the middle, on a soft sole; in some places they also use wooden shoes - kaush.

The flat Tajiks of the northern regions (Leninabad and adjacent regions) no longer use the handicraft fabric that is still partly still in the mountains (with the exception of some types of silk fabrics made by weaving workshops). Women's clothing among the Tajiks of the northern regions also consists of a kurt shirt and ezor pants. From childhood and up to 40-45, women now wear kamzulburish shirts (camisole-cut shirts). This is a long shirt, reaching to the ankles, with a detachable yoke, seams on the shoulders and long sewn-in straight sleeves; the waist of the shirt is cut straight and collected at the yoke in assemblies or folds, the yoke is cut in front vertically and the edges of the cut are hemmed, the collar is made turn-down. Elderly women wear tunic-cut shirts, similar in style to the shirts of mountain Tajik women, but with a standing collar fastened in front, these shirts are called ittiko. Shirts are made of chintz or silk, from fabrics with patterns, brighter for girls and young women, darker for older women, light or white for old women. Pants are made wide at the top, narrow and trimmed with an embroidered silk braid (tsiyak) at the bottom. A short jacket is used as outerwear for both home and weekend wear - caste m; everyone except little girls and very old women wear it. Young girls and girls wear a short vest. Along with jackets, women also wear dressing gowns - chapon. Dressing gowns are always made with cotton wool (summer ones with a thin cotton stitch). These robes look like a waist-fitting coat with a turn-down collar and wide lapels, with a tab at the waist. Outerwear is made mainly of plush, corduroy, velvet.

The head is covered with a scarf- the king, now mainly silk, colored, lighter and brighter - young women and darker - the elderly. There are many ways to tie a scarf; most often, the scarf is folded diagonally and, throwing it over the head, is tied with a simple knot at the back of the head, leaving the ears open; sometimes, for example, during work, the scarf, crossing the ends at the back of the head, is tied in a knot in the front; in winter, a woolen or downy one is worn over a regular scarf. Nowadays, it is becoming increasingly common in everyday life as a summer women's headdress skullcap; it is worn mainly by girls and young women, often without a headscarf, sometimes putting braids around it. The skullcap as a woman's headdress appeared only after the revolution, as well as in the mountainous regions; before the revolution, only women from the lower Zeravshan valley (Tajiks of Samarkand and Bukhara) wore a skullcap under a headscarf. Girls, as well as girls and young women, plait their hair in many braids, both in the front and in the back; with age, women stop braiding their hair in the front. Recently, many women have begun to style their braids around their heads, which is caused by the convenience of such a hairstyle during work.

Little adornments are now worn, of which earrings are the most common.

Mahsi with galoshes are now usually worn by older women, and the rest wear them only in cold and dirty weather; mostly women switched to factory shoes - open shoes or low shoes, which are worn outside the house with stockings.

A man's suit consists of an oversized shirt, usually white, trousers tucked into boots, a belt and a skullcap; in cold weather they wear robes.

Boys and young men wear shirts straight Russian cut with a high collar. Older men wear the kurtai yachtak shirt typical of the Fergana Valley. It has a tunic-like cut, beveled, flared sides and sleeves tapering downward; a deep cut is made in front, sewn on, the collar standing behind comes off in front to nothing. This shirt originates from the Yaktagi underwear, worn back in the 19th century. Trousers of local cut, wide, at the top at the shutter, are gradually falling out of use, they are now worn only by the elderly. The shirt is worn over the trousers, belted with a scarf-like square of silk or paper fabric, embroidered on four sides; the ends of the scarf are tied in a knot at the waist or hips, slightly to the side. In some places, it is customary to tie two scarves at once, one of them serves as a kind of pocket (bread and various little things are wrapped in it, a knife in a scabbard is hung from it). Dressing gowns, like women's, are made on cotton wool; they have a tunic-like cut; they are sewn mainly from satin or from semi-silk fabrics produced by local enterprises.

Of the skullcaps, which are literally worn by everyone, from children to old people, the most common skullcap is chust (literally “Chust” - usually black, square, with four images of “cucumber” or “pepper” embroidered with white threads). In the cold season, men, as in the mountainous regions, tie headscarves over their skullcaps or wear a fur hat. The head was usually shaved before, now the hair is cut more often, young people often leave long hair. Most young men now shave their beards and mustaches, or leave mustaches. Only elderly people wear a beard.

They wear factory shoes - high boots, sometimes canvas shoes and boots in summer.

As can be seen from the above, there are differences in the national costume of Tajiks, the most significant in the clothing of mountain and lowland Tajiks. But some differences can be observed in individual regions. Thus, the Ferghana Tajiks are characterized by a shorter, figure-hugging dressing gown with narrow and relatively short sleeves, while the Tajiks of other places, in particular Gissar and the Zeravshan Valley, wear more spacious robes with wide sleeves; The dressing gowns of Fergana Tajiks are sewn from fabrics of dark colors - black, blue or green, the dressing gowns of the Hissar maidens, Samarkand is a young collective farmer in festive clothes, the Tsev and Kulyab people are of brighter colors, and the favorite colors of the Bukharians are striped, pink and black. The types of skullcaps and their ornaments also vary in individual regions (skullcaps of Isfara, Kanibadam, Leninabad and some other places are peculiar), as well as women's hairstyles and the manner of braiding hair.

However, the Tajik costume even in the old days, with the significant isolation of individual regions, in particular mountainous, did not remain unchanged. It was said above about the penetration of such elements of clothing as the makhsi into the mountainous regions, taken from the plain, where they, in turn, were borrowed from the Tatars, or as a yachtak-type shirt. Elements of costume, new fashions, which again penetrated into this or that region, were naturally perceived by the younger, less conservative generation, while the older generation continued to adhere to the old days.

It is quite natural that with the elimination of the former isolation after the revolution and in connection with the spread of factory clothing using national motives, the penetration of individual elements of national clothing from one region to another became even wider; A striking example of this is the distribution of the skullcap chusti almost everywhere among Tajiks and Uzbeks.

Along with the national costume, every year more and more common urban dress and shoes are included in everyday life. As a result of this, at present, the costume of a Tajik and a Tajik woman, especially in cities and industrial areas (among workers, employees, intelligentsia), in regional centers, is already entirely urban or mixed, in which national clothes are combined with urban ones.

Typically, various types of local footwear disappear the fastest; in men, they are replaced by boots and boots with galoshes; in women, by shoes (usually with low heels) worn over stockings and socks. This “is due to the much greater comfort and durability of factory-made footwear. The most staunchly preserved are national headdresses - skullcaps (which, as already mentioned, not only do not disappear, but have become common among women), as well as bright and colorful headscarves, which are now produced taking into account the national tastes of the peoples of Central Asia, including the number of Tajiks.

Jacket and trousers are becoming more widespread; they are often combined with such accessories of the national costume as a belt scarf and skullcap, as well as often a dressing gown as outerwear. After the war, military-cut tunics and trousers were introduced, which do not hinder movement and are comfortable. The intelligentsia, both in cities and in regional centers, in warm weather wears white suits - a white jacket and trousers outside. Women, although they preserve mainly the local national cut in their clothes, use factory fabrics for dresses and outerwear, usually bright and richly ornamented in accordance with the national taste.

Men's underwear, local outerwear and women's clothing are sewn at home. Many homes now have sewing machines. Men's suits are sewn in state tailoring workshops. Many clothing accessories are bought ready-made in the store, especially outerwear and suits. Gradually comes into use and ready-made commercial underwear, in particular T-shirts and underpants, shirts, as well as stockings and socks.

Thus, from the accessories of the national costume, mainly those that are the most colorful, elegant and at the same time comfortable are preserved: skullcaps, women's headscarves, women's dresses, belt scarves and a robe typical for the peoples of Central Asia.

A Tajik woman, endowed with a beautiful appearance, sought to observe a sense of beauty in clothes. Unlike the fairer sex of other nations, the opportunity for a variety of wardrobe, due to the country's convenient location at the intersection of trade routes, she had centuries before the word fashion itself appeared. Perhaps that is why the national dress of Tajik women has been very diverse since ancient times, and the styles of dresses in most of its regions (including historical ones) can be very different.
We have already published material about some dresses in the photo feed earlier. In this photo strip, which is the second part of the album, we will continue our acquaintance with the clothes of Tajik women, as before, with the help of our beautiful Tajik models, examining each attribute in detail and turning to history.

(Models: Rudoba Makhmudova, Anisa Ismailova, Assistant: Dodkhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

Tajik women, especially young women, loved bright colors in their clothes and always tried to combine shades. And we must pay tribute to their taste - they did not overdo it.

“The range of favorite colors of fabrics for clothes among Tajik women was extremely diverse, bright, cheerful, without being at the same time cutting eyes, although the color combinations were based on the principle of sharp contrast,” wrote anthropologists N. Ershov and Z. Shirokova following the results research conducted half a century ago in Tajikistan.

(Model: Anisa Ismailova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

The clothes shown in the illustration were mostly used by artists who have always had a special place in Tajik history. This is how singers, dancers, etc. could look like in the old days. Although usually the costumes of musicians, who then performed mainly shashmaq, were distinguished by richer colors and fabrics (they were sewn, for example, with gold threads on dark matter), as was shown in our previous photographic tape:

(Model: Rudoba Makhmudova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

One of the myths of today's Tajikistan is that the skullcap has been traditional for women since ancient times. This attribute, according to the studies of Soviet anthropologists, gained popularity and began to be used by girls in almost all regions of the country, as well as neighboring Uzbekistan, only in the 20th century, after the revolution. At the same time, it is mainly only girls and young women who wear it.

The most traditional headdress for Tajik women was a headscarf - rўmol, қars, soba or latta. There were many ways to tie a scarf, many of which are practically nowhere to be found today. Of course, many regions had their own scarves, traditionally used only in this city or area.
For example, in Bukhara, they wore large headscarves called ridos. Kulyab girls traditionally wore muslin shawls in the form of wide long scarves, throwing one end over their heads, approximately as shown in the photo. True, the edges of the former scarves were embroidered, and they were called lattai nahshinӣ (painted fabric) or sarandoz.

Instead of skullcaps under headscarves, they usually wore soft hats made of cloth, which were called tўppi (the same as toқӣ - skullcap in translation from Tajik). They, apparently, are the ancestors of today's women's skullcaps.
Elderly and old women wore a similar headdress - hats made of fabric (of a special shape), which were called kulўtapўshak. Skull-caps, as we wrote earlier, are still worn mainly by girls and young women.

(Model: Madina Kadamova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

In the case of the girl in the photo, over a silsila headdress (or usually over a silk shawl), a burqa made of heavy semi-silk cloth, local banoras, trimmed with silk braid and embroidery is draped over. Usually, such capes were monotonous and dark in color, only over time they began to be made brighter.
Such capes were worn in Khujand and the surrounding area (today's Sughd region). Usually, the set should also include a chashmband (literally "blindfolding / closing the eyes") - a hair net that a woman put on under a veil, covering her face, before leaving the female half of the house.
The ears are pierced with earrings made of spiral wires with pendants, into which rubies and emeralds were previously inserted. Decorations were more common in Bukhara, although there was a period when some areas of the modern Sughd region were part of the Bukhara Khanate, and the regional center Khujand was part of the Samarkand region. Therefore, the confusion of traditions (including in clothing and jewelry) of these three ancient settlements is quite understandable, especially since this closeness, expressed in dialect and customs, can be traced even today.

(Model: Zebunisso Avezova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

This is how girls used to put a scarf over their skullcaps in the mountainous regions of Tajikistan, for example, in Ishkashim, in the west of the Pamirs. And the silsila silver jewelry, which consists of figurines of various shapes connected by rings with pendants along the lower edge, was usually worn, on the contrary, over a scarf, under which there was another scarf, rўmol, folded diagonally. This was the headdress of brides in the Kulob districts. However, the scarves in this case were of bright colors, mostly white. That is, in this case, in the illustration, we see a mixture of styles (attributes and wearing customs) of different regions.

(Model: Takhmina Ibragimova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

The large necklace was called ҳikal or zebi sina. It usually consists of plates (usually seven) connected by multi-row chains, inlaid with colored glass eyes, turquoise and decorated with overhead filigree, grain and pendants, where the lowest plate was made larger than the rest. Over the dress, the girl is wearing an analogue of a lace-up tulle bedspread, which was called sarandozi tўr.

(Model: Madina Nazaramonova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

As outerwear, Tajik women wore light swing gowns with narrow and short, wrist-length sleeves, slightly tight at the waist and sometimes without a collar. They were distributed mainly in the plains and were called Munisak or Kaltacha.
Quilted wadded long robes called ҷoma or chapon were especially common. Under them, in the lowland areas, they sometimes also wore sleeveless jackets - kamzўlcha, sewn up to the waist or slightly lower. In this photograph, a painted brocade burqa (a mandatory attribute until the beginning of the 20th century) is thrown over the girl's head, which is usually accompanied by a hair net to cover the face - chashmband.

If the dress was the most important attribute of a woman's costume in Tajikistan, then its second main part was deaf trousers, which are called, depending on the region of the country and style, poyҷoma, lozimӣ, ezor / izor or tanbeӣ. They are still definitely worn if they wear national dresses. At the waist, they used to be pulled together by a belt made of braid, threaded into the upper edge of the trousers curled up with a scar. They were usually sewn from the same fabric as the dress.

(Model: Mehrangis Mamadnazarova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

The dress of the girl in the photo is traditional for the mountainous regions of Tajikistan, such as Darvaz, for example; these were sewn mainly from local fabric. The cuffs of the sleeves, sarostins, were usually decorated with cross stitching, and below the elbows, stripes embroidered with a cross, also called cho-bik, were sewn onto the sleeves. In this case, instead of crosses, they are trimmed with patterns in the form of flowers.

(Model: Nigina Ismailova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

A modern interpretation of an antique costume that combines the styles of gowns worn by Tajiks performing shashmaqom or young women from the upper class (in this example, styles are mixed). Such clothes made of rich red fabric with yellow embroidery (gold threads) could be afforded mainly by women from wealthy families or representatives of art, who were often gifted by their patrons. Standing collar in former times was called kurtai sarostindori girebonash kazoқӣ, which literally translates as “a dress with cuffs and a Kazakh collar”.

(Model: Zebunisso Avezova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

This illustration shows another example of using a standing "Kazakh collar". However, in this case, the cut and style of clothing is already closer to what people from the class of musicians, singers and other representatives of the arts could wear. A headpiece in the form of a small crown inlaid with pearls, with a light transparent shawl threaded partly from under it, is also customary for their style of clothing.

(Model: Mehrangis Mamadnazarova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

In the old days, in some mountainous regions of Tajikistan, unlike other regions, the sleeves of dresses were made narrow at the wrist, and the waist of the dress was narrow at the waist and wide at the hem. The photo shows an example of such an outfit, but in a modern interpretation it is shorter and more revealing. A light large scarf is thrown over the skullcap, which is widespread in the mountainous regions of the republic.
For more styles of the regions of Tajikistan, see the previous photographic tape "National clothes of the regions of Tajikistan":

(Model: Manizha Shakar, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

The examples of the clothes of Tajik women presented in this part of the photo album (and earlier in the previous one) and, first of all, their descriptions, of course, do not pretend to be historical. This material is just an attempt to show all the splendor and abundance of styles in the attire of women in Tajikistan through vivid professional photographs, beautiful faces of modern Tajik women, ancient costumes and attributes, as well as their history based on meager and scanty studies of Tajik ethnology.
Perhaps this kind of work will be able to contribute to the greater use of national styles and clothes that are historically close to Tajiks in everyday life, although recently it is the use of national Tajik ornaments in modern clothes and attributes stylized as traditional ones that has become more and more popular. The next film "Russia for All" will be dedicated to more modern outfits in the national style.
In the meantime, see more styles of national clothes of the regions of Tajikistan in the previously published photographic tape "National clothes of the regions of Tajikistan".

(Model: Madina Nazaramonova, Assistant: Dodhudo Tuychiev, Costumes: Sharafat Rashidova, Editor: Khurshed Khalilbekov)

In Tajikistan, each of the districts has its own national costume. In cut, it is about the same everywhere, but it differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of jewelry. Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but the national Tajik costume is still very popular among the villagers.

Men's and women's national clothes of Tajiks are very similar in cut - tunic-like, loose, hiding the figure well. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessive fitting in clothes.

Tajik national clothes are distinguished by their brightness. The costume of Tajiks reflects the degree of wealth. The more luxurious the outfit, the more expensive decorative details it contains, the richer its owner.

Separately, it should be said about the fabrics. Tajiks live in hot climates, so they prefer cotton and silk fabrics. Purely national Tajik fabrics include alochu (iridescent striped fabric of different colors, composed of cotton and silk), snipe (semi-silk fabric, striped or patterned) and brocade (silk fabric with gold and silver threads).

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the lower layer of clothing is usually made from cheap fabric, and the upper one is made from more expensive fabric.

National clothes of Tajik men

The traditional costume of a Tajik man includes: a cotton shirt - "kurta", wide trousers, a robe and a wide waist belt. The shirt is sewn from one piece of fabric. It is wide and does not restrict movement. Men wear it outside, girdle it with a long narrow cloth or a special scarf folded diagonally. The scarf performs several functions: it is both a belt that supports harem pants and a kind of pocket.

It is interesting that you can find out about the well-being of a man by looking at the waist. So, young poor guys wore belts twisted from square scarves with embroidery along the edges of "miyonband" or "belbog". And wealthy men could afford wide velvet belts ("kamarband"), embroidered with gold thread.

Wide trousers ("ezor" and "ishton") are also sewn quite wide, but tapering towards the bottom. Over the shirt, men wear a loose-fitting robe ("chapan"), usually striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with an embroidered ornament on the collar.

The dressing gown can be quilted with wadding if it is a winter version of clothing. Classic chapans have become museum exhibits, replaced by modern counterparts - from velvet. The main advantage of the classic chapan is that it keeps warm in winter and cool in summer. Since ancient times, men have been given chapan for important events - weddings, birthdays and even funerals. At the wedding, the bride's brother will not allow his sister to enter her husband's house until the groom's relatives give him a chapan.

And today, in the 21st century, young Tajiks on the first day after the wedding go out to people in chapans, and not modern suits. But in ordinary life, modern men are increasingly combining traditional clothes with European ones. For example, they can wear harem pants with a jacket or chapan and classic trousers.

Women's national clothes of Tajiks

Traditional Tajik women wear long shirt dresses (kurts) and loose-fitting double-layered harem pants. Shirts with sleeves widening to the bottom are decorated with embroidery and have different names depending on the type of collar. In the old days, gussets (inserts, wedges) of a different color were sewn into such shirts, this had a magical meaning and, according to lending, provided a woman with fertility.

The shape of the collar neckline depended on whether the Tajik woman was married: young girls wore dresses with a horizontal neckline and strings at the ends of the slit. And after marriage, women began to wear dresses with a vertical neckline, decorated with embroidered braid. As underwear, women wore white dresses with a stand-up collar. At the same time, the neckline of the upper dress was such as to show the embroidery on the collar, but nothing more.

Women's outerwear is a quilted robe (tsoma) of the same tunic-like cut as that of men, or a munisak with a slightly different cut (there is no sewn-on collar, and there are gathers under the sleeves). Older women, starting in the 19th century, wear Munisaki without braid or lining, they are simply hemmed with a narrow strip of fabric of a different color.

Separately, it should be said about the burqa ("faranji"). Tajik women wore them mainly in cities where there were many strangers. The burqa symbolized purity, chastity, modesty and fidelity. Today it is an integral part of the bride's attire. In addition, it is believed that the veil protects a pregnant woman from dark forces. And, finally, such an element of the costume allowed a woman to feed her baby even in public.

Headdresses of Tajiks

The man's headdress is a skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap their heads with a woolen scarf. The turban, which is worn over a skullcap or a "kulokh" hat, is also still popular.

Women traditionally cover their heads with a headdress of three components: a turban, a hat and a "lachak" - a kind of scarf. Sometimes these elements can be used separately from each other.

The bride's head is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women began to wear skullcaps (tozi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik footwear

For Tajik townspeople - both men and women - soft boots "makhsi" are familiar shoes. They were worn with leather ears. Quite popular were ichigi (light boots with a soft toe and a hard back), made of goat leather and famous for their durability.

The villagers had a more varied selection of shoes. In particular, men and women, in addition to light shoes, wore high-heeled boots or wooden shoes with three legs, the so-called "kafshi chubin".

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successfully combine traditional decorations with modern ones. Women love to wear necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. It can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry - forged and chased, is made of silver, and is somewhat massive. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

Do Tajik men wear jewelry? In different periods of history, Tajik men in some regions wore beads with pendants along with women. Earlier, men also wore headbands and earrings; they indicated belonging to a particular ethnic group and a person's status in society. Today, jewelry is only worn by women.

This is, in general terms, the national dress of Tajiks. In our time, it has undoubtedly undergone changes, but traditional skullcaps, wide trousers and shirts of various colors are still very much loved by Tajiks, including young people.

The government of modern Tajikistan in a very peculiar way popularizes the traditional Tajik costume - representatives of ministries are regularly called upon to strengthen control over the wearing of the national dress.

Dress among employees and prevent the propaganda of alien - European - clothing. The country actively conducts special fashion shows and contests for fashion designers. And the presenters of state TV channels go on the air in stylized Tajik clothes.

Tags: Tajikistan, history

"TAJIK NATIONAL COSTUME" Project - research of a student of the 4th "a" class of the MCOU secondary school of the village of Zvezdny Latipovoy Gandzhins Project leader teacher of the highest category Ionesyan Larisa Viktorovna

Introduction My work is devoted to the study of the national Tajik costume. This topic interested me unexpectedly. I myself was born in Tajikistan in the city of Dushanbe. My dad is a military man and he was transferred to serve in Nalchik, in a military town. Everything here surprised me very much. People in the city dress in a modern way, you won't see anyone in national costumes. And in my homeland, many people always wear their national costume. Recently, at a drawing lesson, we drew national costumes of Kabardino - Balkaria. And so I got the idea to talk about my national costume. After all, he is also very bright and beautiful.

My main goal is to acquaint classmates with the Tajik national costume, to tell about the history of the origin of the Tajik atlas, famous all over the world. My hypothesis is that although the traditional clothes of Tajiks differ depending on the area of residence, they have common features. The methods that I used include the following: my observations, the stories of my relatives, the analysis of publications on the Internet on this topic.

Female Tajik costume. The women wore loose-fitting dresses of smooth fabrics. In the mountainous southern regions, especially in Darval and Kulyab, dresses were richly embroidered and were examples of folk decorative art. The costume was complemented by wide trousers with slouching at the ankles. Headwear - scarves, skullcaps. Female townsfolk and lowland Tajik women wore a swinging robe and local footwear. The mountain women did not have robes. Traditional jewelry - necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings, rings.

The female costume, according to the composition of the obligatory elements, was similar to the male one, it was in the same way a shirt ("kurta") and wide trousers. The women's shirt was cut in the same way as the men's shirt, but unlike the latter, it was much longer and was decorated with rich embroidery. "Kurta" could be monochromatic or bright, multi-colored, decorated with a pattern. Women's harem pants were usually sewn from two types of fabric: the upper part was made of cheaper cotton, which was pleasant for the body and “breathable”, and the lower part, which can be seen from under the shirt, was made of elegant and more expensive fabric. The harem pants ended with a beautiful braid that tightened around the ankle.

Tajik women did not have outerwear at all; in the cold they were ordered to stay at home. However, if it was necessary to go out into the street, they simply put on several dresses, and on top they threw a quilted robe made like a man's. Leaving the house, each woman had to wear a special type of cloak - the burqa ("faranji"). It was a stylized sack robe with sleeves folded and sewn behind the back, in front of the burqa was decorated with a black hair net (chachwan).

Modern clothes of Tajiks combine traditional elements - an outer robe, a skullcap with city clothes. Tajik women keep more traditional elements of clothing. Girls and young women mostly wear a dress with a yoke, which is widespread in Central Asia (except for Turkmenistan). Wide trousers are sewn already, in young women it is much higher than the ankle. Traditional jewelry is combined with modern: necklaces, pendants, earrings, rings.

Men's Tajik costume Men wore a tunic-like shirt, wide-step pants, a swinging robe, a scarf-belt, a skullcap, and a turban. Shoes were leather boots with soft soles, leather galoshes with a pointed toe (they were worn separately, sometimes worn on boots), in mountainous areas - clogs-type shoes with three spikes on the soles for the convenience of walking along mountain paths. In modern Tajik clothing, traditional elements (top robe, skullcap) are combined with urban clothing, and in women's clothing, national elements dominate today.

So, for the male set of the mountain, or plain population, the following were typical: a wide shirt - "kurta" made of cotton fabric, trousers - wide trousers, a dressing gown worn on top, a belt scarf and a headdress - a skullcap. The shirt was usually sewn from one piece of fabric, folded over the shoulders and cut in the middle for the neckline. The sides and sleeves were simply sewn to the base. The result was a wide product that did not restrict movement, called among ethnographers - tunic-like.

Trousers - wide trousers ("ezor") were sewn wide, not constraining a step from above and narrow to the bottom. The shirt was worn outside, belted with a diagonally folded belt scarf. It should be noted here that the scarf, in this case, served as a belt and pockets at the same time, supporting trousers and making a long shirt more functional. A dressing gown ("chapan") was put on directly over the shirt, with a swing, straight cut. For summer, a light version of it was provided - without lining, for winter - more dense, on cotton wool, which had a quilting along the entire field of the product. Robes, as a rule, were sewn from striped (in stripes along) or colored cotton fabric.

Inhabitants of the mountainous regions preferred to wear "chapans" made of undyed homespun wool, the gates of which were decorated with an embroidered ornament. The highlanders' wardrobe was complemented by high, knitted with colored thread, stockings ("djurab"), on which they put on boots made of rawhide leather with soft soles - charyki ("choruk").

Plains inhabitants put on soft high boots-stockings made of dressed leather - "makhsi", into which they tucked in wide trousers, and when leaving the house they put on leather galoshes right on them. In everyday life there were also leather boots with a heel and a curved nose, used for riding.

The headdress for Tajiks has always been a skullcap, which was a low conical cap, intricately decorated with embroidery, the pattern of which, better than any document, indicated the origin and place of residence of the owner. Plain Tajiks also wore a turban over the skullcap. By the 20th century, a flat square skullcap, black with white embroidery, became fashionable among Tajiks. Women who had previously used only a headscarf as a headdress began to wear it willingly.

From the history of the Tajik atlas The first mention of this matter dates back to the 2nd century AD, during the Great Silk Road. But nothing concrete, specifically about the pattern of this matter, is not said anywhere. I asked my grandmother where such a wonderful drawing came from, and she told me this old legend: “In time immemorial, one of the rulers of Margilan decided to marry for the fifth time. His choice fell on the young daughter of a poor weaver. Upset, the girl's father threw himself at the feet of the old khan, begging him to back down from the girl. The khan replied that he would fulfill the poor man's request if by the next morning he would create something so extraordinary that it would make the khan forget about the beauty of the girl. A saddened weaver sat on the bank of the ditch, not knowing what to do next. And suddenly - I saw in the water the reflection of clouds, colored, after the last rain, in all the colors of the rainbow. “Oh heaven, thank you for the idea!” He exclaimed and ran home to immediately get to work.

The next morning he weaved an extraordinary fabric in the image of what he saw - light and airy like a cloud, cool like clean mountain air, and shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. When the master brought this extraordinary fabric to the khan, he was shocked by its magical beauty "How did you do that?" He asked the weaver. To which the weaver replied: "I took the green of the foliage washed by the rain, added the color of tulip petals, the blush of the dawn, the blue of the night sky, the glare of the sun on the fast-flowing water of the irrigation ditch, the glitter of the eyes of my beloved daughter and mixed everything." The unusual fabric was named "khan-atlas" ("khan's silk"), and the khan gave the weaver's daughter to his beloved son as wife. "

The project took 3rd place in the II Republican competition of research papers and projects of schoolchildren "First steps into science"

Chakan is the name of the national Tajik dress, decorated with embroidery. And those who know how to embroider it are called chakanduz. We met one such embroiderer Olambi Nazarova when we visited the village of Tudakavsh Kulyab.

So what is chakan? Chakan is a wide dress, decorated with hand embroidery, always made of natural material - silk or cotton. Chakan embroidery has been used as a craft among women in mountainous regions of Tajikistan for hundreds of years. Today it is more than just a dress with pictures. It overshadowed the rest of the traditional outfits. No festive concert is complete without dancers in embroidered dresses with long sleeves. Chakan is considered a festive dress of the population of the southern part of Tajikistan, and is worn on holidays, most often in spring, on Navruz. That is why this dress is so bright and catchy: patterns of seven colors are embroidered on the red fabric.

Nobody knows exactly when the chakan appeared. Some historians attribute it to the period of Zoroastrianism and associate it with the cult of the sun. Therefore, many dresses of Kulyab beauties are sewn from red linen. Even the basic embroidery pattern in the center of the hem has the outline of a circle, that is, the sun. As the researchers describe the chakan, according to old legends, earlier girls threw sweets into the wide sleeves of such outfits and carried gifts home. However, in the last century, Tajik women preferred simplified outfits, and the chakan, as a relic of the past, was hidden in chests. In addition, in Soviet times, this type of national dress was not welcomed. It was believed that this is the clothing of the feudal past.

Today, chakan is a beautiful and comfortable dress in which you can not only feel the spirit of history, but also surprise those around you: the oriental ornament is woven into European fashion lines ...

The revival of the chakan began in Kulyab. Here in almost every village you can find needlewomen embroidering chakans.

Olambi Nazarova has been embroidering chakan since childhood. She learned this craft from her mother, and that from hers. This skill is passed down from generation to generation in Kulob.

Usually, two types of craftswomen are engaged in manufacturing: kalamkash (draftsman) and gulduz (embroiderers). “The first ones apply a drawing, indicating the tones. Others embroider these patterns with colored threads, mostly silk. Usually we gather all the embroiderers at home and finish the work on long evenings, talking and singing, ”says Apai Olambi. According to her, it takes from 3 days to 2 weeks to embroider one dress, depending on the complexity and density of the pattern. After the embroidery is ready, the fabric is cut and the dress is sewn.

“We use different colors for chakan. But mostly it's red. Previously, we mainly embroidered bright ornaments on red fabric. It was believed that this way he looks more elegant. You can't wear such a dress every day, you have to take care of it, ”explains the embroiderer.

According to her, this work is laborious and requires perseverance. “It is also important to understand the meaning of the patterns. The difficulty is also in the fact that the different patterns at the end formed into a single picture and harmonized with each other, ”explains the craftswoman and shows us the varieties of dresses, from the brightness of which the eyes run up - one is more beautiful than the other.

Chakan can be found not only on dresses, but also on the so-called "bardevoir" - suzane or panels, on bags and on decorative items that the craftswoman embroiders. In the workshop run by Apai Olambi, you can sew a chakan with machine embroidery - potpuri, but according to her, among the people and foreigners who buy products from her, especially handicrafts, it is believed that any craftswoman puts a part of her soul into such a product.

According to Olambi Nazarova, among the many orders she is especially proud of the fact that for the 2700th anniversary of Kulyab, together with their 20 wards, they embroidered 700 chakan dresses, the same number of national men's belt scarves and skullcaps. Another source of pride is the embroidered chakan-style suzane depicting the Sangtuda HPP-1 at its official opening in 2009, which they prepared in a week. The works of Kulyab craftswomen were exhibited at many domestic exhibitions, and in 2015, Olambi Nazarova herself took part in the X International Festival of Craftsmen "Oimo" in Bishkek.

… The traditional chakan is not just a beautiful pattern embroidered with satin stitch. Each pattern has its own meaning. For example, blue wavy patterns are a symbol of long life. The big red circle is the sun, which means warmth and light. And the image of pepper scares away evil spirits.

“So that the traditions of this embroidery are not lost, because every year there are less and less craftswomen, I recruited a group of 18 young girls and now I am teaching them to embroider,” says Olambi Nazarova.

Now products with such embroidery can be found in special departments and boutiques of national products. The average price of a women's chakan dress is between $ 70 and $ 500. According to ethnographers of clothing, dresses used to be wider and longer, which testified to the national charm of Tajik beauties, but today they are more often sewn in a European style, that is, already more open, according to the preferences of modern youth, combining fashion and classics. “Chakan is especially often purchased by foreign guests as a symbol of Tajikistan. On an individual order, I can embroider them with discreet flowers, for example, on linen fabrics with a modern design. It all depends on the order itself, ”says the craftswoman.

In order not to lose the unique traditions of the chakan, Tajik experts proposed three years ago to add it to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. If it is included in the list, it will contribute to the advancement of Tajikistan on a global scale. By the way, the chakan dress has already won the hearts of people in China, Kazakhstan, Russia, the USA and Europe, where it was presented at various exhibitions and festivals. And it is well deserved. After all, national dress is an element of our history, culture, tradition, and it must be treated with great respect.