We sew a down jacket. Pattern of a down jacket. How to sew a children's quilted down jacket How to sew a jacket from an old long down jacket
Appearance description:
Women's down-padded coat, insulated with a central side zipper and six buttons. Coat silhouette "cocoon", with a curly bottom line, the length is below the knee line. A shelf with a tuck-undercut from the side seam, in which a pocket with a finishing flap is processed. The back is one-piece. The sleeve is set-in one-sutural. Collar - stand, fastens with buttons. Down jacket with a detachable hood fastened with a zipper. The hood can be decorated with a "fur trim".
Level of difficulty: not difficult, but it takes time and patience
Technical drawing of the model:
Structural additions to this model: to chest circumference 20 cm, to waist circumference 32 cm; to the circumference of the hips 15-18 cm.
Material recommendations: the main material is monophonic from the group of raincoat fabrics; insulation - (artificial (synthetic winterizer) or mixed layer with natural additives (cotton, sheep or camel wool) or their substitutes (bamboo, swan's down) surface density - 200-300 g / m2. Lining material - based on viscose fibers and threads in color combination or contrast with the main material.
Pattern sample:
* PRINTING ON A4 PRINTER:
When printing a pattern in A4 size, open Adobe Reader and check "Real Size" (or uncheck "Fit to Page") in the print settings.
Pay attention to the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the print scale is correctly configured on your printer. Before printing the entire pattern, print out the sheet with the red square and measure it. 10 cm sides? this means that you can print the rest of the pattern sheets. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale of your printer. Otherwise, the pattern will not print correctly.
After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the order indicated: the letters (A/B/C+) indicate the column, and the numbers (01/02/03+) indicate the row. The first (top left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.
*PRINTING ON PLOTTER:
When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the "Poster" print mode in the "Page Size and Handling" section. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes "Cutting Marks", "Labels" and "Split Large Pages Only".
The following designations are adopted on the pattern:
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Parts specification
Main material
Backrest - 1 piece
Right shelf - 1 piece
Left shelf - 1 piece
Selection - 2 parts
Part of the right selection - 1 part
Sleeve - 2 parts
Hood - 2 parts
Hood insert - 1 piece
Hood lining - 1 piece
Hood strap - 1 piece
Top rack - 1 piece
Bottom rack - 1 piece
Turning the neck of the back - 1 piece
Turning the line of the bottom of the back - 1 piece
Facing the line of the bottom of the shelf - 2 parts
Pocket flap - 4 parts
Burlap (lining) pocket - 4 parts
lining material
Back - 1 piece (with a fold)
Shelf - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 parts
Hood lining - 2 parts
Hood insert - 1 piece
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Attention! When cutting out the details, it is necessary to add 1.5 cm allowances for seams on all sections. The allowance for processing the lower cut of the sleeves depends on whether you will bend the sleeves and form them from the allowance for processing the cuffs. If the lining material is strictly in the color of the main one and along the bottom of the sleeve you decide to stitch the finishing line and leave the sleeves without turn-down cuffs, then the processing allowance is 1.5 - 3.5 cm.
Approximate consumption of the main material 3.0-4.0 meters (depending on size and height), with a canvas width of 150 cm.
Attention! The figure shows the layout of parts on the canvas for size / height - 44/170 cm.
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To make a down jacket you will also need:
- lining material - 2.0 - 2.5 m;
Detachable zipper - 70-85 cm, depending on height;
Insulation - 2.5 - 3.5 m, depending on its width and size and the growth of the product;
Buttons - 8 (9) pieces;
Zipper for fastening the hood - 35-45 cm, depending on the size (you need to measure the length of the lower cut of the hood part - 2 parts + insert);
Fur trim for a hood made of natural or artificial fur.
Technological sequence of processing
1. Baste all the details cut from the base material onto the insulation. Apply a pattern quilt stitch to all parts on the right side of the fabric.
Attention! In the store you can find special felt-tip pens or crayons that are removed after heat treatment. You can apply a pattern, and after quilting, remove the lines with a warm iron.
Attention! To simplify the process of quilting the base material with insulation, try gluing it. Yes! I use a simple glue stick. I lightly grease the edges of the parts of the base material with glue from the wrong side, put a heater on it, press it and leave it for 5 minutes. It is possible to lubricate the material pointwise and along the quilting lines. Don't overdo it! First try on the lunges that will remain from cutting. Believe me, it's really easier.
2. Sew the quilting stitch according to the pattern. Stitch length - 0.4-0.5 cm (Fig. 1).
Attention! Do not overtighten the thread, and if possible, use a walking foot.
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Process the pockets on the shelves as shown in fig. 2 and fig. 3.
Turn the valve with a lining, turn the valve right side out and stitch the seam allowances of turning the valve on the lining;
Lay the pockets on the shelf (Fig. 2), according to the control signs and stitch the valve and the parts of the pocket burlap to the shelf in succession;
Sew the seam allowances for attaching to the lining;
Stitch pocket burlap pieces
Sew darts on the shelf in the area before and after the pocket entry line
Sew the front and back along the shoulder seams. Iron the seam allowances.
Stitch the front and back of the coat along the side cuts. Iron the seam allowances.
Determine the length of the strap by the length of the zipper. Turn the sides of the zipper bar and iron it in half.
Baste and stitch the bar on the front side of the product along the cut of the neck, strictly in the middle relative to the middle of the back, aligning the cuts;
Sew one side of the zipper along the seam of the bar
Stitch the seams of the bottom line of the shelf and the seam of the line of the bottom of the back along the sides. Seam allowances are best ironed out
Attention! Ironing operations must be taken very carefully. The process of ironing the seams should not lead to flattening of the insulation.
Get your collar ready.
The algorithm for assembling the collar is classic and practically does not differ from the processing of the stand-up collar of the jacket:
Grind the top stand of the bottom stand, turn right side out, baste the edge and iron.
Sew the top collar into the neck of the down jacket. Iron the seam allowances onto the collar.
Finish the clasp.
The design of the clasp is also very simple. The right shelf is wider than the left by the width of the bar. The bar is designed for attaching buttons. On the edge of the bar, a collar is sewn from the inside and one side of the zipper is inserted into this seam. The second side of the zipper is inserted into the seam of turning the cut of the side of the left shelf with a selection (Fig. 4).
Rice. 4
- sew one side of the zipper to the inner edge of the hem (line 1);
- sew the bar to the pick-up (line 2);
- stitch the facing of the neck of the back to the pick-ups along the side cuts;
- sew the lower stand into the collar and facing of the neck of the back;
- grind the cut of the side of the right shelf with a selection, while turning the side of the collar;
The use of warm and cold seams in down jackets. For several years I worked at an enterprise for tailoring down clothes, headed by the author of the book "Tourist's Atelier" Brink I.Yu., which describes in detail the technology for manufacturing such products.
I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth (we just did it) and I will not touch on the very basics of sewing clothes with down filling, so I omit the questions of what materials the down bags are made of, how many layers they include, how the filling is done with down, how the compartments are closed and etc.
Cold seams - this is the connection of the layers of the down package with a line through. This technology allows you to create compartments of the desired size and shape, but does not provide the same thickness of insulation (it is minimal near the stitching and maximum in the middle of the down compartment, A is not equal to B). If you really want a beautiful stitch, then cold seams are quite applicable. 
If the thermal protection of the product is more important, and beauty is a little less, it is logical to use warm seams. I most often saw warm seams on products of a straight silhouette and a rather large volume - these were suits for the harsh northern oil workers))
Warm seams are a method of sewing a down bag, in which narrow (3-5 cm) strips of braid or fabric are sewn between the layers of material over the entire width of the part, the so-called. bulkheads. Bulkheads allow you to maintain the stability of the thickness of the insulation in the product (A equals B). 
You need to understand that a product with warm seams no longer turns out to be as beautifully “inflated” as with cold seams (although a certain bulge of the compartments is preserved). Therefore, most often I saw such seams on internal insulating down bags. At the same time, the product itself can have constructive lines of arbitrary shape, they can not be tied to the geometry of the stitches (or not to quilt the top layer at all). 
First, the individual parts of the product are prepared:
Bulkheads are adjusted to individual parts of the insulation package - on the shelves, on the back and sleeves according to the markup, first on one part of the down package, then on the other. Only after that, a partial line along the contour is performed on the part (below I described the methods for processing shoulder seams and sewing the sleeve into the armhole, in which this contour line is not needed), holes are left for filling and the compartments are filled with fluff.
Bulkheads are dissected near the cuts of the parts. 
Often, ordinary edging tape is used as bulkheads, which is 15-32 mm wide. (Using the width of this tape, you can adjust the thickness of the down layer). Sometimes narrow strips of the same material from which the fluff bag is made are cut out for bulkheads. If the bulkhead does not end at the cut of the part, then the next strip is overlapped on the previous one and the line is continued. The braid should be soft enough, keeper and rep ribbons will not work, they are hard. 
1. Shoulder seams can be assembled in the usual, cold way, or otherwise (it will be warmer): the upper compartments closest to the shoulder seams are made smaller in height than the lower ones, about 2 times: 
Shoulder seams are connected in layers separately: 
It turns out a single compartment of the down package in the shoulder area. Under the weight of the package, the layers on the shoulders of course flatten a little, but with this method it is then convenient to sew the sleeve into the armhole using a bulkhead.
2. The side seams of the product, the lower seams of the sleeves and the crotch seams of the trousers (this is if you suddenly sew trousers with down filling) can also be collected both in a cold way, as well as to make them voluminous. Most often, these seams are joined in a cold way, i.e. they simply grind off, flattening the ends of the bulkheads. I have been thinking for a couple of days about whether it is worth making a voluminous and unflattened down bag in the side area? To do this, you must first connect the side seams of the product, and then stitch the bulkheads on the camp from one side through the back to the second side. And the sleeves can be confused and assembled with ring bulkheads. Can. But why? Probably, we do not need extra volume under the arms, so we connect the side seams of the back and front and the lower seams of the sleeves in the most usual way, as in any other product.
3. But the sleeve is sewn into the product with a bulkhead so that its upper compartment does not flatten: the bulkhead is sewn along the line of the sleeve, first to one part of the package, then to the other. Then the sleeve is sewn into the armhole of the product in the same way, in 2 steps. With this method of sewing in the sleeve, the preliminary contour line on the armhole of the shelf and back is not laid, the compartments are filled with fluff after the sleeve has been sewn in. 
4. The collar in a down product, as a rule, is a single compartment and is sewn into the product in the usual way.
Lastly, the compartments of the prepared down package are filled with down through the previously left holes and these holes are sewn up.
A down jacket is a fairly versatile and functional element of outerwear that can protect you even from the most severe frosts. Sometimes, unfortunately, for some reason, the products offered on the market or in stores simply do not fit. But don't give up right away. We will tell you how to sew a down jacket with your own hands. As a result, you will receive a high-quality sewn and designer product that will suit you, taking into account the characteristics of your figure, and the costs will be several times less.
How to sew a down jacket with your own hands? Master Class
To sew this type of outerwear, you will need the following tools and materials:
- 1.5-2 meters of main fabric for exterior decoration;
- 1.5 meters of lining fabric;
- 500-600 grams of fluff;
Important! You can use both natural down and its various synthetic analogues, such as isosoft or thinsulate, for filler.
- 3 meters of fabric for the inside;
- Detachable zipper 80-85 centimeters long;
- Narrow and flexible braid;
- Tailor's needles;
- Tailor's marker or remnant;
- Tape measure;
- Threads in color;
- needles;
- Scissors;
- Sewing machine.
Important! Pay attention to the fact that for the exterior finish, the fabric must be water-repellent with a special impregnation.
Once everything is prepared, you can safely proceed to the process of making a down jacket with your own hands. The procedure is as follows:
- First, build a full-size pattern for the future product. For these purposes, you can use absolutely any model you like.
Important! The pattern should be one size larger. This is due to the fact that the finished product is compacted due to the down lining.
- Cut out the elements of the blanks for the outer and inner parts.
Important! Remember to leave 1.5-2 centimeters of fabric for allowances.
- Make side and shoulder seams on the elements intended for the inside of the product. After - fold them with the front sides and stitch the necks and fasteners.
- Stuff the finished blank with fluff and quilt with squares measuring 6x6 centimeters.
- Fold the elements of the sleeves with the right sides and stitch them, while leaving a cut along the armhole.
- Stuff the sleeves with down and quilt them in the same way as the main workpiece.
- Stitch the elbow sections of the sleeves, then sew them into the armholes.
- Connect all the details of the hood, stitch it into the upper part of the down jacket.
Important! For a hood, instead of a lining, you can use a regular synthetic winterizer.
- Sew all cuffs. To do this, cut out a rectangle equal to the width of the cuff x2, and a length equal to the girth of the wrist + 3 centimeters from the main fabric. Fold them in half and stitch the side seams.
- Fold the finished part inside out and lay parallel lines, while leaving an unsewn space equal to 1 centimeter on each line.
- Using pins, pull the braid through the unsewn hole.
- Insert the inner and lining into the blank for the upper part.
- Align all the cuts, fix them with tailor's pins.
- Sew all three layers of the future product along the side and shoulder seams.
- At the neck of the lining, fold the cut to the wrong side. Stitch it to the hood sewing seam.
- Sew finished cuffs to the bottom of the sleeves.
- Bend the bottom hem to the wrong side, stitch it.
How to update a down jacket with your own hands?
If you have an old down jacket lying around in your closet, do not rush to throw it away immediately. Having basic skills in cutting and sewing, you can create a unique designer item from an old piece of outerwear. In order to sew such a down jacket with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:
- Old down jacket;
- 60 centimeters of synthetic winterizer;
- Water-repellent fabric 2.5 meters;
- Lining fabric 1.7 meters;
- Detachable lock 70 and 40 centimeters long;
- Sewing machine;
- Scissors;
- needles;
- Threads in color;
- Tailor's pins;
- Tailor's marker or remnant.
Important! Please note that the indicated fabric parameters are for size 46-48. If your parameters are different, then the amount of fabric must be purchased based on them.
Once the necessary inventory has been prepared, you can proceed directly to work. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Pull out the filler from the old down jacket, then cut it into pattern details.
- Applying the old parts to the main fabric, cut out new ones. Thus, you should get:
- 2 shelves;
- Back;
- 2 sleeves;
- Collar;
- 2 details of the middle of the hood;
- 4 side hood details.
- From the padding polyester, cut out 2 side and 1 central part of the hood, as well as 1 part of the collar.
- Cut out from the main fabric of the selection and 2 burlap pockets.
- From the lining fabric, cut out all the main details.
Important! All details that are cut out of the lining fabric should be 1 centimeter shorter than the same ones, only from the main one.
- Attach the upper parts from the main fabric with the same ones from the insulation, grind them.
Important! On the right shelf, the insulation should be sewn manually.
- From the wrong side, pin a piece of padding polyester to the bar so that it goes over the old insulation.
- Stitch the synthetic winterizer to the insulation along the edges of the plank.
- Lay the seams with a sewing machine from the neck to the bottom of the shelf.
- Lay the zipper with the outer side on the upper shelf from the neck to the cut, directing it down. Attach the zipper.
- Fold the right shelf with the left front side inward so that the middle of the front remains free.
- Unscrew the zipper on the left shelf to the cut, and pin the right side to the cut of the right shelf.
- Stitch the shoulder seams and iron the allowances.
- Stitch the side seams from the armhole to the top edge of the pocket opening. Iron them.
- Attach the pocket burlap from the main fabric to the back, turn it forward, align it. Attach in this form to the back.
- Stitch the lining shelves to the pick-ups, iron the seams.
- Sew side and shoulder seams, as well as allowances.
- Attach a loop of tuck cord to the center of the back.
- Fold the top of the down jacket with the lining facing inward, sew the sides.
- Chop off the collar with a padding polyester, grind along the edge.
- Put a zipper from the hood on the cut and, combining the middle of the collar, stitch.
- Unscrew the free ends of the zipper tape to the cut.
- Fold the collar in half lengthwise with the front side inward, sew the sides. Unfold and straighten the corners.
- Baste the collar with the neck of the down jacket, as well as the upper part of the back and lining. Stitch them with a sewing machine.
- Stitch the seams on the sleeves, planting them along the okats.
- Turn the sleeves inside out and sew them into the lining.
- Align the shoulder seams of the top and lining, while matching them with the sleeves.
- Turn the hem of the bottom of the down jacket to the wrong side, sweep a centimeter from the fold, not reaching the middle of the front.
- Fasten the bottom hem in several places.
- Turn the down jacket right side out through the gap in the lining.
- Stitch the bar, sew buttons in several places.
- Sew the side elements of the hood to the middle part.
- Unfasten half of the lock from the collar and put it on the bottom of the hood with the outer side, align the middle, stitch.
- Sweep the outer sides of the hood together, lay a machine line 2 centimeters from the fold.
- Stitch the bottom of the hood, fasten it to the down jacket.
- Remove all threads from the running seams.
Your new down jacket is ready!
It's getting colder outside, so it's time to warm up. In this article, we will consider how to sew a women's down jacket with our own hands. The task is quite difficult, but quite doable. Let's add some unique elements that will make our product exclusive.
Let's take the oversized style as a basis, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we will try to sew quilted down jacket with a hooded collar.
Materials and tools
The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them consist of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not wrinkle, do not let moisture through and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes evaporation and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness, increased water and steam resistance properties.
ATTENTION! If you intend to wear a jacket in conditions of high humidity, then it is better to choose a material with water-repellent impregnation.
In classic down jackets, waterfowl down is used as a filler. because it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff will never stick together or fall off, since sweat and human skin fumes do not settle on it. But it will be very difficult for a beginner dressmaker to sew a jacket with such a filler, and it is not cheap, so let's focus on the simplest option - synthetic winterizer.
Choose polyester for lining- synthetic knitted fabric, outwardly similar to wool. It is affordable, easy to care for, anti-static and virtually wrinkle-free.
From the accessories, we need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a fastener.
Standard set of tools:
- sewing machine;
- overlock;
- scissors;
- tape measure;
- graph paper;
- pencil;
- needles, pins.
Down jacket pattern
The pattern will be as simple as possible, so we make a minimum of measurements:
- down jacket length;
- back width;
- armhole height;
- the length of the sleeve
IMPORTANT! When taking measurements, it is necessary to immediately lay in them an increase in the freedom of fitting. For outerwear, it is about 8 cm.
We build a pattern drawing
- Down lay the collar width 25–30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. Draw a horizontal line at the level of the collar. From the upper left point to the right, lay off the width, which is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the smell (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
- Mark the central axis. From it, at an equal distance, lay armholes, 5 cm wide, 25–30 cm high.
- To build a sleeve pattern, we build a rectangle. It can be made straight or tapered. We measure the width of the armhole according to the drawing of the main part. We make the head of the sleeve rounded.
Cutting materials
- We cut out the main part from the outer material and synthetic winterizer.
- Additionally, from the same fabric we cut two parts of the selection and one collar.
- We cut out the sleeves immediately from the outer fabric, lining and synthetic winterizer.
IMPORTANT! It is necessary to leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for processing the bottom.
Stages of sewing a down jacket
- Sections of details from outer and lining fabrics we process on an overlock or on a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
- We fold the main rectangle with the additional detail of the gate face to face, accept, and then grind down them on a sewing machine. Similarly, we sew two selections on the sides.
- We proceed to cutting out the lining for the main part. We cut a rectangle of this size to fill the space on the wrong side between the bands and the collar.
- Carefully we put a synthetic winterizer inside matching corners.
- On the front side, with the help of a remnant, we outline the lines of lines along which we will quilt the fabric. So that the lines do not part, we fix them with safety pins and lay basting ties using a thin needle. On the collar and collars we sew (quilt) 3 layers of material, outer, synthetic winterizer, outer. In the place where the lining will be, we quilt 2 layers - outer material + synthetic winterizer.
ATTENTION! So that the synthetic winterizer does not slip on the fabric, it should first be sewn around the perimeter. Since the fabric turns out to be quite dense, it is more advisable to use a walking or Teflon foot of a sewing machine.
- The same way we quilt the sleeves. When applying a synthetic winterizer to the sleeves, it is necessary to step back 5 cm from the bottom edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the bottom allowance, because it is designed to be folded inward and connected to the lining.
- Machine stitching the shoulder seams. So that in the future the down jacket does not slip off the shoulders, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm between each other and insert a lace into them, which will be pulled around the neck. The lace can be taken ready, but it is better to sew from the main fabric.
- Sewing the side seams of the sleeves from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with padding polyester) from the wrong side, then we grind the side seam of the sleeve lining. We fold the lining and the main sleeve face to face, sew the lower sections. Turn it inside out and insert the lining inside. Then he tucks the cuff inward, basting, ironing and laying a decorative seam along the front side at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
- We sew the sleeves into the "body" of the jacket. To do this, we find the centers of the okats and connect them with the shoulder seams. We stick them into the armholes with safety pins and tack them in such a way that a small fit is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should pass along the part of the sleeve.
- We sew the main part of the lining. To do this, we put the main part with the synthetic winterizer up and connect it with the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
- Through the bottom edge, turn the down jacket inside out and pin, tack, and then sew on a typewriter lining to the main material. We make a line not reaching the middle of about 10 cm. On the other hand, we do the same operations. Turning out the jacket. We bend and iron the middle. With the help of safety pins, we fix the unstitched area and manually sew it with hidden ties. The lining is sewn on.
- Sew on magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
- In addition to buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it immediately on the fabric. The width of the belt detail, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For additional rigidity, we glue non-woven or dublerin with the wrong side. We sew short sections from the inside. We twist, we iron. We make a hem along a long cut by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, iron. We outline and lay a decorative stitch on the front side at a distance of 1–2 mm from the edge.