What footage of fabric is needed for sewing a dress. Correct fabric calculation for women's clothing. Fabric consumption depends on the width of the fabric
Dear visitors of our site, if you are a coat manufacturer or are just going to do this - this article is for you!
How much fabric does it take to create a conceived model?
There are some points that need to be remembered when calculating the material and on which it depends how many meters of canvas you will take!
Silhouette and style of the product- the consumption of fabric directly depends on the style of the product model you have conceived, and the more complex the silhouette, the greater the consumption of the fabric will be.
Size and height of the figure- these elements are always taken into account. Today, on the Internet and on store shelves, there are many forums, magazines and articles where you can find tables and tips for calculating fabrics for a particular product. If the figure of a person is standard, then you can safely use these tables. And if the figure is not standard and has its own nuances, then you need to take them into account. When counting the fabric, they use measurements - this is the length of the product, the length of the sleeve and the width of the widest part of the product according to the pattern. How to take measurements correctly - we will tell you below.
Width of fabric- the fabric is produced in different widths - this should not be forgotten and always check the information with the seller. For example, fabrics with a width of up to 1 meter will take almost twice as much for a product than fabrics with a width of 140-150 cm. And canvases with a width of 180 and more sometimes turn out to be much more profitable when cutting.
Fabric pattern- this point is also of great importance when calculating the fabric! For example, if the fabric is in a cage or strip, then it is imperative to add a percentage to finalize the pattern. On parts that are connected to each other, the drawing must be combined in order to avoid curvature and not a beautiful general appearance of the product. Very often the drawing has to be adjusted and because of this, the material is consumed a little more than usual. Sometimes in some models of striped fabric, they "play" with its direction and this also needs to be taken into account.
The composition and texture of the fabric- fabrics are of different composition. If you have a fabric made from natural raw materials, be sure to take into account the percentage of shrinkage. Because before sewing it, it is necessary to design it (iron the fabric through a moistened linen cloth until it dries completely), the canvas will shrink, and only then start cutting. This must be remembered and always add a few centimeters.
Fabric consumption chart that can help you.
| Type of clothing (short description) | Fabric width, cm | Height | Fabric consumption, m, depending on the size | Product length in finished form, cm | |||
| 44-46 | 48-50 | 52-54 | 56-60 | ||||
| Coat female straight or semi-adjacent silhouette | 140 | Short Average High | 2,5 2,6 2,7 | 2,6 2,7 2,85 | 2,75 2,85 3 | 2,85 2,95 3,1 | 107 113 119 |
| Lining fabric for coat | 100 | Short Average High | 2,55 2,65 2,75 | 2,7 2,85 2,95 | 2,85 2,95 3,1 | 2,95 3,05 3,15 | |
| Jacket, extended loose fit (with a hood) | 140 | Short Average High | 2,5 2,6 2,65 | 2,6 2,7 2,75 | 2,7 2,8 2,9 | 2,8 2,9 3 | 68 76 76 |
| Jacket lining | 140 | Short Average High | 1,6 1,65 1,75 | 1,65 1,75 1,8 | 1,8 1,9 1,95 | 1,9 2 2,1 | |
Attention! If the products have additional details (patch pockets, leaflets, shoulder straps, valves, folds, collars of complex styles, finishing details) or fabric with a complex directional pattern, pile, in a cage, strip is used, then the consumption of fabric increases by 30-40 cm
How to take measurements?
Basically, when counting fabrics, they are faced with 4 basic measurements:
- Chest circumference - measured horizontally at the level of the armpits through the protruding points of the chest.
- Hip circumference - measured horizontally through the protruding points of the buttocks in the back, thighs on the side and in the front, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen.
- Product length - measured at the highest shoulder point at the base of the neck, through the protruding point of the chest to the point of the intended bottom of the product.
- Sleeve length - is removed with a slightly bent arm, from the lowest point of the shoulder (the point of articulation of the shoulder and arm) through the elbow to the intended bottom of the sleeve.
We wish you good luck in your endeavors, and our store will always be happy to help and make the sewing process a pleasure.
Admin 2012-07-15 at 8:08 am
Hello dear dressmakers. With this article, I begin a whole series of posts on how to correctly sew a sheath dress... And not just sew, but also simulate
I've been working with clients all my life and I'm used to the fact that: you have to sew quickly (such a dress had to be sewn in one day without compromising quality), take into account all the wishes (and whims) of the client.
From experience I know that everyone wants, for example, a dress that perfectly fits the figure, but does not restrict movement. And there are many more details to be taken into account.
You will learn all of this by going through this series of articles to the end. It will be a voluminous work and I will tell you everything you need to know in order for you to get a well-tailored dress with the correct fit on the figure.
In this article, you will find out.
We will disassemble a dress without sleeves, with darts at the waist, chest and shoulder darts and with a slot.
Distinctive details of the dress - a case: nothing superfluous, laconic cut, simplicity of lines, the dress repeats the curves of the figure (hence the name "case" or "dress - pencil case").
What do you need to know for this? I divided the whole process of sewing a dress into 4 stages.
2 - preparing the dress for the first fitting
3 - sew a dress for the second fitting
4 - final finishing and ironing of the dress case
And I repeat once again that in this article we will dwell in detail on the first stage: how to prepare fabric before cutting how to lay it out on the table, how to arrange the patterns on the fabric, how to apply all the necessary lines - in general, everything in order to correctly cut the dress sheath.
Regarding the pattern, I will say separately: you can take it from a magazine and adjust it for yourself, or use a special program for building patterns RedCafe (cool thing, I downloaded it for myself, figured it out for two days, and really liked it).
But this is a separate topic and I will write about it in more detail in the future, follow the blog news.
So, let's begin, nevertheless, cut dress!
If the fabric for the dress has been picked up with a stretch, then be sure to iron it to shrink. If you do not do this, then after the final ironing of the product, it may “shrink” and you will lose the length or size of the product. I had a case when the pants "sat down" in length by 5 cm, it's good that the stock was good. So do not be lazy and do ironing (decating) without fail.
All natural fabrics still shrink strongly. Before opening them, they must be soaked in warm water (in the store, when buying, ask the seller about the rules for caring for the fabric).
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise and fold it out on the table with the fold toward you. Level the edges - the fold of the fabric should lie flat along the edge. There should be no distortions or folds on the fabric. Place the shelf detail on the first one (as in the photo).
The shelf is usually without a middle seam, intact. On the pattern of the shelf, there may not be a designation of the share thread, but be aware that the share shelf is always parallel to the center of the front, with the exception of models with draperies on the bodice.
The photo shows a way to lay out fabrics up to size 46 - 48. If the size is larger, then more fabric will be needed.
In general, to count how much fabric is needed for a dress it is possible like this: for a straight dress - if in size you go to the same width of the fabric plus on the seams and the slot, then take one length of the dress, + the length of the sleeve, + 50 cm for the cut details and stocks of seams. Example: I have size 46, dress length 96 cm, sleeve length 15 cm = 92 (full volume) +8 (reserves of side seams) +14 (reserve per slot) = 114. I go through the width of the fabric, so I take one length of the dress 96 + 15 (sleeve) +50 cm = 160 cm. I need to buy 160 cm of fabric for a dress case.
If you do not go in one width, then take 2 dress lengths. If the sleeve is short, then it can be cut from the remaining fabric and the fabric for the sleeve is not counted. Such a common scheme.
1 Move the bottom of the shelf from the cut of the fabric by 4-5 cm.
2 The center of the shelf perfectly matches the fold of the fabric - no deviations, even 1-2 mm! Pin the shelf.
3 Apply the backrest detail with a middle seam to the edges, the cut of the splines should not reach the edge of the edge 2-3 cm, since it must be taken into account that there will still be an increase in the seams and the gnarled edge of the edge should not fall into this stock, it will be ugly.
The lobar dorsum coincides with the lobar tissue. In a sheath dress, the lobe back runs along the middle seam. But since we have a curved middle seam, focus on the area below the thigh. This is a straight section and is initially parallel to the center of the backrest.
The shoulder cuts and the armhole of the back should not intersect with the shelf, taking into account the reserves for the seams, back off enough, 3-4 centimeters. If all this has been done, then pin the back with pins.
Now circle the patterns with a thin remnant. If your soap is dull, then it can be corrected with a clerical knife (sold in the office, costs 7 rubles). The chalk should be very sharp. I almost always use soap, not chalk, the chalk is quickly shaken off the fabric, or vice versa, you can't wipe it off, and the soap disappears after ironing and draws more precisely.
Apply all construction lines and darts that are indicated on the pattern.
Be sure to note: on the side seams of the back and front, the waist line (no need to translate the entire waist line, a short line is enough), the center of the front. On the back, insert a continuation of the middle seam under the slot.
If you have noted everything that is possible, then we proceed to the next stage: we postpone the amount of stocks for the seams. They are different, depending on the type of fabric, types of seams, processing methods, etc. In our case.
How much fabric is required to sew a dress, skirt, trousers? This can be easily calculated by referring to the standard standards used in factories that sew clothes in large quantities. In that case, of course, if you do not take each specific human figure as a reference point, but what is there, and not a human, too, figure ... For the second case, progressive, closed mankind came up with - "Atelier Method" !!!. This method is clear and simple to everyone.
For example, consider the consumption of fabric for a men's jacket. Very simply, - Length of Cut = Length of Product + Length of Sleeve + Hem of Bottom. This is, of course, in the case when the figure of the client, without excessive deviations from the norm. Agree, it will take more fabric for Alexander Semchev than for Peter Dinklage. By the way, you can also calculate the consumption of fabric for a shirt, blouse.
It's even easier with trousers. Length of Cut = Length of the Product (measured from the waistline to the floor) + 15 - 25 centimeters for the belt, codpiece, valances, belt loops. On jeans there are also patch pockets at the back, and a pocket for a watch. Such a small piston for the valance of the front pocket. This must be taken into account. Then the formula changes - Length of Cut = Length of the Product (measured from the waist line to the floor) + 30 - 40 centimeters for the belt, codpiece, valances, patch pockets, piston, piping, belt loops.
What is the fabric consumption for the skirt? As a rule, a cut (with a width of 150 centimeters) equal to the Length of the Skirt + Hem is sufficient.
For a robe, dress, or coat, fabrics must be purchased by calculating the flow rate as follows - Product Length + Sleeve Length + Hem Bottom. If you are interested in the amount of coarse calico for sewing a double bedding set, then this requires about seven meters of coarse calico, with a width of 220 centimeters.
Of course, the numbers are very approximate. Factors such as fullness, growth in the end are not taken into account. Therefore, you need to make more accurate calculations that take into account all factors. Fabrics are often expensive. A couple of tens of centimeters of fabric remaining after the cut will be a mute reproach. Money down the drain, I don't do quilting. What are these factors?
Well, the first thing is that the consumption of fabric when sewing a skirt, or dress, or trousers will increase decently if the thigh line marked on the pattern does not fit 150 centimeters (one fabric width). Read more about such cases below.
Second, the presence of additional decorative elements, and these can be draperies, folds, frills, or the above-mentioned patch pockets, tabs, patches and much more, will also greatly increase the consumption of fabric. A completely different material consumption is present when cutting well-known models of skirts, well, for example, a sun skirt. In this case, fabric costs reach 5 meters. A half-sun skirt spends less fabric, but still significantly.
And now in more detail about the cost of sewing certain products, including sewing bed linen.
Material costs for dress, skirt, trousers.
It's time to mention that the consumption of fabric directly depends on the width of the fabric. In addition, from the style of the thing, the dimensional characteristics of the figure, and the completeness of women or men. In the case of using a narrow fabric (90 centimeters - 110 centimeters), the consumption almost doubles. There is no mistake here. Consumption is counted in running meters. Hence the increase. In square meters, the consumption is approximately the same. It is not worth focusing on the "narrow" fabric. Millet fabrics are now produced mainly with a width of 150 centimeters. But there are subtleties here too. For example, a fabric of this width, namely one and a half meters, is not recommended for sewing bed linen. The most "optimal" flooring for bed linen comes out of fabric (chintz, calico) with a width of 220 centimeters.
The model or style of the product being sewn has a direct impact on the material consumption. I repeat once again that with an increase, on a skirt, or dress of ruffles, folds, the amount of fabric also increases. Even the hood needs about half a meter of fabric. It is possible to accurately calculate the cost of fabric for such details after creating a pattern and laying out patterns.
It is also necessary to take into account the fact that other fabrics allow you to cut out details in a mirror (in a cell, a strip), and this can significantly save the fabric. This is most clearly seen when cutting out skirts and trousers.
When calculating the consumption of tissue, they take into account the circumference of the chest, waist, hips, the height of a person, what is called dimensional characteristics.
The figure shows the approximate rates of tissue consumption for products designed for a person of normal build and average height. This picture is useful for quickly calculating the total cost of fabric needed for sewing in a store. And you don't have to ask the seller anything.
Fabric consumption for full figures is almost doubled
With the same size of the product, but different heights of a person, the consumption of fabric will not be the same. Of course, with high growth there is a need to purchase more fabric than with medium and low growth.
The height of a person is determined by the dependence on the height of the figure. For a female figure, for example, the approximate division by height is as follows:
But, if the difference in height adds 20 - 30 centimeters to the flow rate, then the fullness can almost double the fabric consumption. This is determined by the fact that the pattern of trousers or skirts with a hip circumference of more than 120 cm does not "enter" the width of the fabric. If the width of the fabric is 150 centimeters, something else may work, but with a width of 140 centimeters, it will not work. You will need to purchase two lengths.
All these calculations change greatly upward if the product has a large number of additional trim elements.
Fabric consumption for basic types of clothing
Men's jacket = Jacket Length + Sleeve Length + 15 - 20 centimeters increase.
Straight skirt (cut width 140 centimeters) = OneSkirt length + 10 centimeters (hem, belt, seam allowances).
Women's blouse (cut width 90-110 centimeters) = Two Blouse Lengths + One Sleeve Length. With a width of 150 centimeters = One Blouse Length + One Sleeve Length + 10 - 15 centimeters.
Men's pajamas (with a cut width of 90 centimeters) = Two Lengths of Trouser + Three Lengths of Jackets + Two Lengths of Sleeves + 20 - 30 centimeters (collar, pockets). Or half the size for a 150-centimeter wide fabric.
Pants (cut width 140 centimeters) = One Length + 10 - 15 centimeters (children, adolescents) or 20 - 30 centimeters (adults).
Teenage or children's coat (cut width 140 centimeters) = TwoCoat lengths + 15-20 centimeters (hemming the bottom, taking into account future growth).
Women's nightgown (width 90 centimeters) = 2.5 Lengths of Shirts.
Sleeveless dress = 130 - 150 centimeters of fabric.
Dress with long sleeves = Dress Length + 20 centimeters (hem, seam allowances) + Sleeve length + Turndown Collar (20 centimeters).
Linens. (fabric width 220 centimeters).
One and a half (2 pillowcases 70x70) need 6.2-6.4 meters.
Double (2 pillowcases 70X70) fabrics will need 6.8 - 7.2 meters.
Family set about 10 meters.
How to most accurately determine how much tissue is needed
You can determine how much fabric is needed for a product using the method given below.
On a scale of "one to four", or "one to five" build a drawing of the pattern according to the measurements taken.
In case the style provides for modeling, the scale drawing of the pattern is modeled.
After that, on the same scale, the width conceived for the product is drawn, the length is taken free.
It makes sense to build the fabric to its full width only when the cutting is done "in a turn". Often cutting is performed "in the fold", in this case, the fabric is folded along the lobe. Then, in this case, the width of the fabric is drawn at half its width.
Then the patterns are laid out on the drawn width of the fabric, taking into account the increase in the seams and observing the direction of the share thread. The final step will be to determine the length of the cut.
An innovative method in determining the amount of tissue is to use a computer. I do not consider professional programs. They can do anything. Even automatically optimize the layout (flooring) of the patterns. Specialized, such as Cutter too. There is no freehand drawing option. But RedCafe will do. Take a trouser pattern, for example. Let's add a piece of fabric with a width of one and a half meters to the same working field. Move the pattern. Let's decide on the length.
The laid out details of the pattern make it possible to find out how much fabric is needed to sew a given product.
But the simplest solution is to take the pattern with you to the fabric store ...
Correct fabric calculation for women's clothing
An important stage in the implementation of cutting clothes is the calculation of the material. Thanks to the exact calculation of the fabric for the desired product, the master will be able to correctly place all the details on the fabric, avoiding unnecessary costs. This article will focus on calculating a sufficient amount of material for a dress, skirt, trousers.
An important indicator is the width of the material
When calculating the fabric for clothes, you should first take into account its width. Basically, the standard fabric width is 145 centimeters. The traditional width of natural fabrics, for example, silk and chiffon, is sometimes less - 90 and 120 centimeters. Lace is characterized by a similar width.
Calculation according to rule number 1:
The width of the material is considered the main indicator for calculating the length of the product.
How fabric is calculated for a straight skirt
The main measure for calculating the length is the hip circumference.
Calculation according to rule number 2:
When the hip girth indicator does not exceed the width of the material minus ten centimeters, the fabric consumption is equal to one length of the skirt, to which 15 centimeters are added (for the hem of the bottom and the allowance at the waist).
- To sew a model of a skirt with folds, it is necessary to make a calculation taking into account the number of folds. For example, a skirt with pleats in a circle involves calculating three lengths of skirts and increments.
- The sun skirt is performed on the basis of the following calculation: if the length of the skirt is not more than 72 centimeters, the length of the material should be 150 cm.When the length of the skirt exceeds the width of the material folded in half, it is necessary to provide seams on the sides, but the consumption of fabric will immediately double.
- For a half-sun skirt, you will have to have two lengths of the product with two radii of the notch for the waist and ten centimeters.
When the measured hip circumference is no more than 100 centimeters, with a fabric width of 145-150 centimeters, all the details will fit into the same length of trousers. In such a situation, the material consumption for women's trousers will be the length of the product + 20 centimeters.
For trousers with bulky pleats, add another 20 centimeters. The calculation of the fabric will be: the length of the trousers according to the pattern + 40 centimeters.
When calculating the fabric for trousers with cuffs, it is worth adding the length of the cuff. The belt is cut out along the fabric along the lobar thread: pants length + 20 + 8 centimeters.
For a hip girth of more than 116 cm, the fabric consumption will be 1.5-2 of the length of the trousers.
When the hip circumference is no more than the width of the fabric minus 10 centimeters, the material consumption for a dress without flaring folds is calculated as follows: product length + sleeve length + 15 cm for hem + fabric on the collar, processing and additional details.
Advice to the master:
There are exceptions to any rule, and therefore if there are no skills, before purchasing the material, it is worth making a layout in full size (approximately). Having laid out the patterns on the floor, you can measure the approximate length of the product.
How to count fabric with pile and pattern
As noted by the masters, the consumption of material depends on the width of the material and the style of clothing, as well as on the direction of the pile and pattern. In this situation, the details of the pattern must be spread out in one direction, and the direction of the pile must be downward. When there is a pattern on the fabric that suggests alignment, for example, a cage, the tissue consumption will be increased by 30-40 centimeters.
It is necessary to lay out parts on fabrics with a pile in one direction, and the material consumption increases by 40 centimeters.
Important to remember :
If the product provides additional details in the form of patch pockets, shoulder straps, folds, valves, collars with a complex cut, the fabric consumption always increases by 30 centimeters.
Owners of a standard figure can purchase ready-made clothes without any problems. But what if you have some body features, or just want to have an exclusive outfit? You can contact a good fashion designer and order an individual tailoring of the product. In this case, it is very important to accurately determine, since such things are usually sewn from rather expensive cashmere, crepe, gabardine.
To give an accurate answer to this question, you need to take into account a lot of factors. So, the consumption of the canvas directly depends on the style, the presence of patch pockets, a voluminous collar, a hood, and other additional elements.
Growth and volume are paramount. For a standard figure, you can use tabular data, but it is best to take measurements from a specific figure as accurately as possible. When measuring volumes, shoes or boots should be worn, which will be combined with the outfit, since this determines the accuracy of the indicators and the correctness of the pattern.
Also, the width of the material, its appearance, texture, drawing deserves close attention. For example, in the presence of a large print, stripes, an increase should be made for the combination of the elements of the picture. Completely natural fabrics shrink when wet, so their footage should also be taken with a margin. Before cutting it is recommended to carry out processing of the material - decating. Since the outer outfit is not washed, but is handed over to dry cleaning, the material should be ironed well enough with an iron.
Tissue consumption for a coat up to the knee
There is a fairly simple formula for calculating the required amount of material for sewing outerwear. This algorithm is used in sewing factories, in ateliers. So, to determinehow much fabric is needed on a coat up to the kneestraight or fitted silhouette, it is necessary to add the length of the sleeve to the length of the product and another 20 cm for the hem. This technique is suitable for simple silhouettes and standard sizes 48-50.
As a rule, professional fashion designers take measurements by which they start cutting the product. This allows you to accurately determinehow many meters of fabric do you need on a coat, as well as create a thing that will fit perfectly on the figure.
To cut the coat, you need the following parameters:
- length of the product- the measurement is carried out along the shelf, from the protruding point of the shoulder through the most protruding point of the chest and to the knee;
- thighs- the tape is pulled along the most protruding areas of the thighs and buttocks, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen;
- breast volume- measured at the level of the armpits along the protruding points of the bust;
- sleeve- it is measured on a slightly bent arm, from the intended place where the sleeve is sewn in to the place where it ends.
For sewing a flared model up to the knee, as well as, if material with a width of 80-100 cm is used, two lengths must be taken in the calculations.
Fabric consumption for a medium coat
You can determine the amount of fabric on a coat of medium length using the above formulas or use the tabular material:
| Style | Cut width, cm | Height | Consumption m, according to the size | Product length, cm | |||
| 44/46 | 48/50 | 52/54 | 56/60 | ||||
| Straight or semi-adjacent | 140,0 | 150-159 163-166 170-179 | 2,5 2,6 2,7 | 2,6 2,7 2,85 | 2,75 2,85 3,0 | 2,85 2,95 3,1 | 107 113 119 |
| Lining fabric | 100,0 | 150-159 163-166 170-179 | 2,55 2,65 2,75 | 2,7 2,85 2,95 | 2,85 2,95 3,1 | 2,95 3,05 3,15 | |
Tailoring experts suggest makingcalculation of fabric for a coatusing a pattern. The first thing to do is to take measurements correctly. After that, a pattern is drawn on a generally accepted scale - one to four or one to five. For this, a conventional unit is determined - the centimeter is divided by 4 or 5. In the accepted scale and conventional units, the width of the canvas necessary for the product is set aside. The length can be arbitrary. If cutting is carried out on a fabric folded along a transverse thread - with an edge on both sides, then the width is depicted in real size. A more common method is cutting into a fold, when the canvas is folded along the shared thread and the edge remains only on one edge, and on the other there is a fold. In this case, the width on the pattern is set aside two times less than the real indicator. For example, if the cut width is 150 cm, then in the accepted ratio, 75 cm is laid in the drawing.
After that, the pattern elements are laid out within the boundaries of a certain width of the canvas, taking into account additional centimeters for seams and processing. With the help of such the methods calculate the required material in accordance with individual parameters.