Open your clothes. Constructing a base pattern is the most understandable way (for beginners). - women's conversations. Let's start drawing the base pattern - take measurements
Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing clothes for your kids, the pioneer's fear has passed. THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new, easy way (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.
No - I won’t give you a single ready-made pattern - I’m not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.
Yes - sewing yourself is very easy and simple. Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.
Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.
I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.
I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:
Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But I wasn’t very good with geometry and drawing during my school years. Even I, who adore both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.
And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.
We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))
But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.
We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.
And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.
- No confusing formulas
- No confusing calculations.
- And without the letter-number cobweb.
So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?
I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.
So... what is a pattern - the basis?
To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.
Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.
I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.
Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.
And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.
All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.
This is how it happens in the fashion world.
One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.
Beautiful? Beautiful.
What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern.
And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.
By the way - since we are already talking about a round yoke - on this site there is already one of my articles on creating a dress for a girl with a simple round yoke and a dress with a round yoke with flounces.
And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.
You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?
That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point...” - ugh!).
I want to awaken the feeling in you. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.
Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.
After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's like you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!
As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”
So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.
Where does the base pattern come from?
So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:
The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.
We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.
And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.
Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.
Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.
To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.
First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.
Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.
So, meet – PROYMA.
When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.
That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.
Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.
Now let's get acquainted with the darts.
DOTS ON THE BACK– shoulder dart + waist dart.
In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.
But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.
Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.
Let's get to know each other next... DOTTS ON HALF FRONT.
Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.
I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.
The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.
For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.
And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail
You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).
Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress of your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.
But that is not all,
what I want to say about the chest dart.
The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.
When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.
And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.
Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.
Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?)))
It's only the beginning…
We continue our walk through the pattern and now get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines
CHEST LINE
The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)
The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:
- We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
- We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
- We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
- We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.
Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).
WAISTLINE
We focus on this line when we draw waist darts - both on the front and back parts. The widest point of the dart is located exactly at the waist line.
HIPS LINE
Along this line we draw the extension of the hem. We will need the classic hem extension of 1.5 cm on the left and right so that when walking, the dress does not rub too much against the body and does not warp.
If you sew from stretchy fabrics, then such an expansion of the hem will prevent one very unpleasant thing - when the hem of a clingy stretch dress, when walking, begins to slowly creep up the hips, clinging to the waist - and then you are forced to constantly pull it back every 5-10 steps .
Also, the expansion of the hem can be greater than the classic 1.5 cm if the girth of your hips is much wider than the girth of your chest. .. Then we will expand the hem in accordance with the magnitude of the difference between these volumes (I’ll tell you in more detail below, when constructing the pattern).
Do you know why drawing a base pattern is easy and simple? Now you will understand...
WHY DRAWING A BASE PATTERN IS EASY AND SIMPLE
I want to draw your attention to 2 wonderful points.
Great moment #1 – the entire pattern is created inside a rectangle (I filled it with pink to make it clear)
Remarkable moment #2 – the most labor-intensive part is drawing the top part of the pattern – where the neckline is, and the shoulder line, and the darts, and the armholes.
And to make it mentally easier for you to draw, I divided the upper part of the pattern into three simple zones. In each zone we will draw 2-3 simple lines - and that’s it - the upper part is ready.
As you can see, if you divide a seemingly difficult job into 3 parts, each of the 3 parts themselves does not seem difficult. As a result, you won’t notice how everything has already been drawn.
It's simple– first we draw a large rectangle, then we divide its upper part into three zones. In each zone we draw 2-3 lines. And all that remains is to go down and draw the waist darts and the hip line. Ha! Business!
Do you feel now how easy it is? Draw your first real pattern base.
Well then let's get started. And we'll draw it all in 20 minutes. Set the timer.
WE START DRAWING THE BASE PATTERN - TAKE MEASUREMENTS.
WE TAKE MEASUREMENTS
Height of the future product (from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the hem of the dress)
Half chest – (bust circumference divided by 2)
Chest center measurement – (distance between the tops of the breasts) in your regular bra.
Back width– (at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades – from hand to hand)
Back lengths(from cervical vertebra to waist)
Shoulder length- (from the lateral point at the base of the neck - to the shoulder joint)
Half neck circumference– (neck circumference divided by 2) the tape passes at the base of the neck without squeezing it
Half hip circumference - (hip circumference divided by 2)
Half waist – (waist circumference divided by 2)
We know how to remove all these girths of the chest, waist, hips and neck.
And to take other measurements, I give you an approximate picture below:
STEP ONE- draw a rectangle.
Rectangle height – this is the height of the future product from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the future dress
Rectangle width – half chest circumference + a few cm for a loose fit.
How many of these same centimeters need to be added for a free fit, now we’ll figure it out.
Conventionally, there are 4 degrees of fit for a sheath dress:
- Tight-fitting dress silhouette
- Adjacent silhouette
- Semi-fitting silhouette
- Straight silhouette
If you need close-fitting silhouette - then choose the fabric that has elastic fibers, that is, it stretches a little (not like a stretch, but slightly) - and then the FITTING FREEDOM ALLOWANCE MAY BE OBSESSED AT ALL - that is, the width of the pattern will be equal to the half-circumference of your chest.
If you are sewing a dress from ordinary non-stretch fabric, then it will not be possible to completely stick it to the curves of your body - and the most we can do is cut it out adjacent silhouette . AND THEN THE INCREASE FOR FREEDOM OF FITTING WILL BE - 3 CM. These three centimeters will need to be evenly distributed between the back area, armhole area and chest area. That is, when we now divide the pattern into 3 zones - and we calculate and measure their width - then we will simply add an additional 1 cm to the width of each zone - and that’s all.
If you need a dress semi-adjacent silhouette (one that hides the “shortcomings” of the figure) - then the FREEDOM OF FITTING ALLOWANCE will be 4-5 cm. (1 cm will go to the back area, 1.5 cm to the armhole area, the rest automatically goes to the chest area.
And if we need a basic pattern for a dress straight silhouette - then add 6-7 cm.
STEP TWO –We zone the upper part of the rectangle into three zones: back zone, armhole zone, chest zone.
The width of the back area is the measurement of the width of the back divided by 2
The width of the armhole area is the half-circumference of the chest: 4 + 2 cm (divide the half-circumference by 4 and add 2 to this figure)
The width of the chest area is what remains.
ATTENTION (!!!) If you made an allowance for freedom of fit at the very beginning, do not forget to add part of this allowance to each zone (as I said just above in the article).
STEP THREE – in the back area we draw 2 lines – neck line + shoulder line.
Neck line - lies on the rectangle eand only its extreme tip is raised upward.
What you need to know:
neck width = 1/3 half-circumference. neck + 0.5 cm
height of the neck edge above the rectangle = 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.8 cm
What do we have to do:
This means dividing the half-circumference of the neck by 3 and adding 0.5 cm. We measure this distance on the top line to the left. We found the width of the neck and marked it with a dot.
Now this point needs to be raised higher above the rectangle. Divide the half-circumference of the neck by 10 + 0.8 cm - and raise the point by the resulting figure.
We have all found the edge of the neckline - now we need to draw a smooth corner. This can be done simply by hand.
Shoulder line
it goes slightly obliquely - from the edge of the neckline and slightly extends beyond the border of the back area.
What you need to know:
Shoulder line length = shoulder length measurement + 1.6 cm for dart.
The slope of the shoulder line - for normal shoulders 2.5 (for tall shoulders 1.5 cm, for sloping ones 3.5 cm) - the level of slope is noted on the side line of the back area (measured from top to bottom).
What do we have to do.
We figured out what type our shoulders are. We measured the required value on the side line of the back area (2.5, 1.5 or 3.5)
Draw a line from the edge of the neck to the marked level of inclination.
And on this line we measure the shoulder length + 1.6 cm for the dart. As a result, the line lengthened slightly and went beyond the back area.
Note:
if suddenly your line turns out to be shorter and DOES NOT GO BEYOND THE BACK AREA - then....This could be for three reasons...
OR THE SHOULDER MEASUREMENT WAS NOT TAKEN CORRECTLY(shorter than necessary) - not FROM the neck itself and not TO the middle of the round shoulder joint)
OR The back width measurement was taken incorrectly (longer than necessary)— perhaps the back was hunched when the measurements were taken, or the centimeter passed higher than at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades)
OR you are sewing a dress of a SPACIOUS FIT TYPE
- and therefore on the pattern they gave - what was required in this case - a large allowance in the back area
— and the backrest area with an extra charge turned out wider (than it would have been in an adjacent silhouette)
and then completely normal that the shoulder line does not reach the edge of such an expanded backrest area
and in that case it shouldn't bother you
Back dart:
What you need to know:
The dart is located 4 cm from the edge of the neckline
The depth of the dart is 6 cm (that is, it goes down 6 cm)
The dart width is always 1.6 cm
The first side of the dart is lowered perpendicularly, and the second is tilted to the side.
Both sides of the dart are equal in length, that is, equal to 6 cm
What do we have to do(see the picture) - we measured 4 cm from the edge of the neckline (put a bold dot) and measured even further 1.6 cm for the dart (put a dot) - these are the edges of our dart.
Now we lowered the perpendicular down by 6 cm, then went up to the other edge of the dart. Moreover, they also rose exactly 6 cm. Yes, yes, we will rise a little above the shoulder line. But it is important for us that the sides of the dart are the same length - we will sew them together (close the dart) - and they must match in length. If they do not match in length, the shoulder line will turn out broken after closing the dart.
STEP FOUR– we find the chest line and in the armhole area we draw a back armhole and a front armhole.
Back armhole line
What you need to know:
The armhole line goes down evenly to the chest line.
And the height of the back armhole is always = 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 7 cm
The extreme (axillary) point of the armhole line is located exactly in the middle of the armhole area (on the chest line).
The upper 2/3 of the armhole height goes almost exactly down
The lower 1/3 of its height + 2 cm - the armhole bends towards the middle point of the armhole zone.
Drawing the chest line
Find the height of the armhole. It is equal to = half chest circumference: 4 + 7 cm. An armhole of exactly this height will be optimal for your arm and will not cut into the armpit or pull on the shoulder.
We found this value - and now we measure this distance down from the edge of the shoulder. We measured and set a point.
We have now found not only the lower edge of the armhole - we have now automatically found the level of the chest line. This very important line can only be found in this way. Its level is always the size of the armhole, measured down from the shoulder.
And to draw the chest line exactly horizontally. We need to measure the distance from this point to the top edge of the square of our pattern with a centimeter. And then measure the resulting value on both sides of the pattern - slap the points - and connect them with a horizontal straight line.
Draw a line for the back armhole.
Now we will draw the armhole line of the back.
The lower extreme (axillary) point of the armhole is always located in the middle of the armhole area on the chest line. We measured the armhole area with a centimeter - found the middle - slapped the dot.
The armhole line starts from the edge of the shoulder, goes down and begins to bend to the side only at 1/3 of its height + 2 cm. We measure this distance from the chest line. That is, the height of the armhole: 3 + 2 cm = the distance from the chest line, where the armhole begins its bend towards the axillary point. But to be honest, I don’t always remember about these extra 2 cm and always draw the bend by eye, by hand - I cut it to about 13 and then start rounding it off.
Front armhole line
What you need to know:
The height of the front armhole is = half chest circumference: 4 + 5 cm (this is not a colon ": " this is a division sign)
The armhole has 2 bends:
The upper bend is deflected away from the border of the armhole line by 1/10 half chest measurement
Bottom curve - starts at 1/3 of the armhole height from the chest line
What do we have to do:
Find the level of the upper bend of the armhole - half chest circumference: 4 + 5 cm - spank the point. Now this point must be moved to the left by a distance equal to = half chest circumference: 10.
Now we find the level of bend of the armhole to the armpit - the height of the armhole: 3. We measure this distance on the side line of the armhole area - spank the point.
And we also have that same axillary point. We get only three points. Now through these three points we draw a smooth armhole line.
STEP FIVE– DRAW THE LINES OF THE CHEST AREA (neck, shoulder and chest dart)
Neck line
What you need to know:
The width of the front neck is the same as that of the back neck = half neck circumference: 3 + 0.5 cm
Neck depth = half neck circumference: 3 + 2 cm
Neck edge height measured from the chest line and equal to = half chest circumference: 2 + 3.5 (or + 2 cm for girls)
The diagonal depth of the neck is equal to = 1/3 half-circumference of the neck + 1 cm
What do we have to do:
We find neck width(half neck circumference: 3 + 0.5 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern to the left - spank the point.
Now raise the edge of the neck- it should be above the chest line by a distance equal to (half chest circumference: 2 + 3.5 cm (or for girls + 2 cm).
We measure this distance up from the chest line– and raise the edge of the neck to this level. And don’t let it scare you if suddenly this point rises too high in your opinion above the edge of the main rectangle of the pattern. The larger your figure, the wider the horizontal plane of your shoulder, and the more you will have to raise this point of the upper edge of the neckline.
For example, with a chest circumference of 80 cm, this point usually rises by about 4.5 cm (plus or minus 1 cm depending on how sloping your shoulders are). And when the chest circumference is 110 cm, then the point can rise above the main square of the pattern by as much as 7 cm. Don’t let this scare yours - feel free to draw, and don’t worry... you’re doing everything right.
Now that you have raised the neck level up beyond the pattern, you need to draw weak intersection lines this new horizontal level And a line that mentally extends upward the side part of the pattern(see in my drawing I drew these lines in a bright light green color). These lines are needed as guidelines - because it is their intersection points that we will measure our next measurements - the vertical depth of the neckline (neckline) and the diagonal depth.
Find the depth of the neck (neck half-girth: 3 + 2 cm) - measure it from the angle of intersection of the imaginary light green lines down - measure and slap the point.
Now, to make it more convenient for us to draw the correct rounded bend of our neckline line, we measure the diagonal size of our neckline. It is measured with a measuring tape from the intersection of the light green lines - diagonally to the left.
Front shoulder line
— you don’t need to know anything. Everything here is generally simple - we connect the edge of the front neckline and the upper edge of the front armhole - the gray line in the figure.
Bust dart.
What you need to know:
The point of the chest dart reaches the bust line.
The point of the bust dart should line up exactly with the top of the bust (this is where measuring the center of the bust comes in handy).
The width of the dart is determined empirically, which is described below.
What do we have to do:
We find the top of the chest on our pattern. To do this, measure on the chest line from the right edge of the pattern half the chest center measurement + 1 cm. Only half, because we only have half of the front front on the pattern.
We put a point - and from it we draw a perpendicular straight line straight up - to the shoulder line. Now we have just determined the location of the chest dart, so that its tip is directed exactly to the top of our chest. The breasts will fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress - without distortion.
Now we need to draw the second side of the dart - BUT for this we need to know its width.
There are no formulas here. The width of the dart is determined experimentally. For this we need
1.) Know the measurement of your shoulder length (we took this measurement at the very beginning)
2.) Measure the length of the shoulder line on the pattern with a centimeter.
3.) Compare these values with each other.
4.) The difference in size will be the width of our dart. For flat-chested children, this difference is zero, which means the width of the dart is zero. That is, she is not there. Well, that’s right, little girls don’t even have breasts - why do they need a dart.
5.) We measure the found width to the left of the edge of the dart. Mark it with a dot. And from this second point we draw a line down to the tip of our dart. Oops! And the tuck is almost ready.
6.) All that remains is to make both sides of the dart the same in length. We measure the first side of the dart. And we measure the same distance on the other side of the dart. So that they are the same and coincide with each other when we close this dart.
7.) The shoulder line turned out to be a little broken (raised after the dart). But that's how it should be. After closing the dart, it will lower and be perfectly level.
NOTE FOR DOUBTERS:
Regarding the large bust dart at the shoulder line.
The fact is that the BIGGER the breast size, the BIGGER, WIDER this dart will be.
Based on my personal pattern - it is also extremely large
and because of this the pattern looks kind of skewed
and not like the neat one in the articles
- but the article shows an average pattern - the same as it would be for a woman with medium breasts (cup size B).
For example, in my case, this is also true - I’m a medium-sized girl, height 162, narrow shoulders, waist 70 - but my chest is D-size - and therefore it turns out that on the pattern the shoulder line is dissected by a huge bust dart.Then, when cutting on the fabric and sewing - when this dart is closed (the flaps of the dart are sewn together) - you get a completely neat shoulder line and a spacious recess - just for my large bust.
For a large bust, you need a large dart - this is the only way you will get a large indentation on the front detail - sufficient for your particular bustAnd in general... when you doubt anything about sewing or a pattern... do this... buy the cheapest fabric from which diapers are sewn for children - transfer the pattern you doubt about to the fabric - cut it out - sew along the side seams - close the darts (then there is, attach the edges of the dart drawn on the fabric and secure with a seam - sew the shoulder seams of the front with the back - put it all on yourself and immediately see that you are wearing a wonderful summer dress made from a diaper)) - you won’t even want to throw it away after that...)))
WE ARE FINISHED WITH THE TOP PART OF THE PATTERN. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
It remains to separate the back shelf from the waist shelf. Then find the waist line and the hip line. At the waist line, draw a side bend and 2 waist darts (on the back and front). At the hip line, draw an extension of the hem to the sides.
Let's quickly do this and that's it - we can open a bar with drinks and celebrate this matter.
Well, let's get started...
STEP SIX - divide the pattern into a back panel and a front panel - that is, into the right and left sides.
What you need to know:
Side seam line - divides the pattern into a back flap and a front flap.
The side seam line does not run in the middle, but shifts towards the back (you need to divide the width of the armhole area into 3 equal parts with two points - and just through the left point, which is closer to the back) and the side line will pass)
What do we have to do:
We measure the width of the armhole zone. We divide it into 3 identical segments - with two points. And through the left point we draw a vertical line. This will be the side line of our shelves (back and front).
STEP SEVEN – draw the waist line and hip line.
What you need to know.
The waist line is located below the cervical vertebra at a distance equal to the measurement of the length of the back.
The hip line is below the waist line at a distance equal to half the back length measurement.
The waist line and the hip line have a slight deflection (1.5 cm) on the front half (this deflection is necessary for the roundness of the tummy, which even the thinnest people have).
What do we have to do.
We measure the level of the waist line - from the top of the pattern down we measure back length measure- we draw a line.
We measure the level of the hip line - from the waist line we measure down half the back length measurement- we draw a line.
On the right side of the pattern, mark the points that are 1.5 cm below the lines - bend the line to this point (as shown in the figure).
STEP EIGHT – draw the side curves of the front and back + waist darts of the front and back.
Calculate the width of darts and side bends
What you need to know:
Width of side front curve = width of side back curve = width of back waist dart = width of front waist dart. That is, in the process of fitting the dress, we remove the same amount of excess fabric in the side bends and darts.
To find out the width of a dart or bend. You need to know the amount of excess fabric, the same one that should be trimmed in the side bend or hidden in a dart. And divide this total amount of excess fabric by 4 (each of these 4 pieces will be tucked away in its own dart or in its own side bend). Means…
Dart width (or side fold) = amount of excess fabric: 4
Amount of excess fabric = pattern width minus waist circumference.
It’s a little confusing, but now I’ll show everything with a specific example….
What do we have to do.
1.) We know the width of the pattern (remember it is equal to half chest circumference + 6 cm)
2.) We know the half-waist circumference (we took measurements at the very beginning)
3.) Subtract the waist circumference from the width of the pattern and subtract an additional 2 cm.
4.) The resulting figure is the amount of excess fabric that will go into the side bend or into the darts.
5.) Width of one dart (or side bend) = amount of excess fabric: 4.
For example, the width of my pattern is 52 cm, and my waist circumference is 36 cm.
The amount of excess fabric in the waist area will be 52 - 36 - 2 = 14 cm.
This is exactly the amount of fabric that should be partially trimmed on the side bend of my pattern, and partially hidden inside the front and back darts.
The pattern has 2 bends (at the side front and at the side back) and 2 darts (one at the front, one at the back).
This means that my excess of 14 cm should be evenly distributed between all these four elements. That is, 14 cm: 4 = 3.5 cm.
That is, 3.5 cm will be the width of the back dart + 3.5 cm will be the width of the front dart + 3.5 cm will go into the bend of the side line of the back + 3.5 cm will go into the side bend of the front line.
Now it’s clear how to find out the width of darts and bends.
We can draw the side curves right away - we measure one size at a time (in my case, 3.5 cm) on both sides of the midline:
And in order to draw waist darts on the back and front, you also need find their correct location on the pattern.
Draw the waist dart of the back.
What you need to know:
The central axis of the back waist dart runs through the middle of the back area. That is, it is located from the left edge of the pattern at a distance equal to = back width measurement: 4
The upper top of the back waist dart is located exactly on the bust line (where the axis intersects this line)
The lower top of the back waist dart does not reach the hip line by 4 cm.
What do we have to do:
First, let's draw the center line of the dart - that is, a straight line that will mark the center of the dart. The tops of the dart will be located on this center line.
The center line of the back waist dart runs exactly in the middle of the back area.
That is, you can simply measure the width of the backrest area and find its middle.
Or measure from the edge of the shelf to the right an amount equal to = back width measurement: 4.
Finding the tops (sharp tips) of the dart: The upper peak lies on the bust line, where the axis of the dart intersects it. The lower one lies on the axis, at a distance of 4 cm from the hip line.
Now we draw the dart: on the waist line on both sides of the axis, measure half the width of the dart. And from these points we draw lines to the top of the dart and to the bottom of the dart.
Waist front dart.
What you need to know:
The front waist dart lies on the same axis as the bust dart. That is, the axis of the dart is also located at a distance equal to = half the chest center measurement + 1 cm
The tops of the waistline are located on the line of its axis: the top one does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower top does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.
What we do:
Find the axis of the front waist dart - either continue down the chest dart line, or measure from the right edge of the pattern a distance equal to = half the measurement of the center of the chest + 1 cm.
We measure this distance along the chest line and along the hip line - put the dots together and get the axis of the dart.
On the axis we mark the tops of the front waist dart - the top top does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the bottom top does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.
On the waist line on both sides of the axis, measure half the width of the dart - and from these points we draw lines down and up to the tops of the dart.
STEP NINE – draw the expansion in the hip area and the smooth roundness of the bottom of the product.
What you need to know:
If the difference between your chest circumference and your waist circumference is small (2-3 cm), then the dress expands in the hip line area by 1.5 cm (this is a classic hem extension).
If the hip circumference is much larger than the waist circumference - then the expansion along the hip line will be equal to half the difference between the HALF circumference of the hips and the HALF circumference of the chest.
And if you want a slightly widened hem (well, so that it is not strictly at the hips, but dangles slightly freely), then also make an extension on the bottom line of the product another additional 1.5 cm.
All the same, when you try it on, you will see the optimal width of the hem and you yourself will sew the side seam under the hip line if you want to narrow the hem.
The bottom of the product also has a slight convexity (1.5 cm) towards the edge of the front and back flanges.
What we do:
We find the difference in the values of HALF hip circumference and HALF chest circumference. For example. Half chest girth 42 cm, half hip girth 45 cm (be careful we are not comparing whole girths, but half girths). The difference in half girths will be = 45-43 = 3 cm.
We divide this difference in half = 3:2 = 1.5 cm. And thus we find out how much we need to expand our hem.
On the line we measure 1.5 cm on both sides from the side line of the shelves (put dots).
On the bottom line of the pattern, we also measure 1.5 cm in both directions (or 3 cm if we want a slightly wider hem)
We connect these points with a smooth line, drawing the side lines of the front and back hems. The side lines of the front and back hemlines are drawn (as you noticed) overlapping each other - crossing each other. Then, making copies from the base pattern, we cut out the back shelf separately, the front shelf separately, that is, we will separate these halves, leaving each of them its own outline of the hem.
Now for the curved line of the bottom of the product - we draw points 1.5 cm lower than the bottom corners of the pattern. We connect these points with smooth lines to the extreme side points of the hem.
Done, fellow girls!!! We, with a sober mind and memory, have just made a basic pattern!!! And at the same time, they didn’t even turn off their brains even once and there were no abbreviations with letters and numbers.
Moreover, you didn’t just draw at my direction, but you understood what was hidden behind each line. And this little thing will come in handy when modeling. And you and I will moderate – a lot and with pleasure, too
That is, with full awareness of what is being done and why.
Learn to think and turn on your brain, and you will be able to model what you like without waiting for my article-lessons.
and one more thing... I decided to write it in capital letters... otherwise many people don’t notice... and then they ask when there will be a lesson on sleeves... - it’s been around for a long time... a whole series.... and not only on the sleeves...
.
What other master classes are there?
in the same clear pictures and explanations.
If you delve into the sewing section on this site, you will find a lot of things useful for the mind and for sewing.
Namely…
How to sew a SLEEVE TO A DRESS... a series of my own lessons
the rules for constructing a pattern (formulas and allowances) are the SAME
for children's and adult clothing
There are already ready-made series of master classes on creating sleeve patterns - and on modeling all sorts of different sleeves - lanterns, wings, puffs, flounce sleeves, etc. And although I created this series of lessons back when we were sewing for children, all these lessons are still exactly ALSO SUITABLE- word for word and letter for letter - to create sleeves for adult clothing.
How to sew shuttlecocks... a series of my own lessons
Plus - a series of 8 article-lessons on creating shuttlecocks. Shuttlecocks are also a very interesting modeling element.
And how to sew FOR CHILDREN...
also in step-by-step pictures... simple and fast
Plus - a sewing cycle for newborns and a cycle for quickly creating dresses for girls.
As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))
And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses
You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series “Sew tops and T-shirts - quickly and easily.” So to be continued))) Let's go....
Happy sewing!
Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site “Women’s Conversations”.
Copying the article is permitted ONLY to a personal computer and only to the pages of a personal online diary WITH MANDATORY SAVING OF ALL WORKING LINKS OF THE ARTICLE.
Looking at glossy magazines, sometimes you feel a feeling of regret that a dress you really like from a fashion show or from the red carpet, even if you can try it on in a boutique, can only be worn to a party in your dreams. Unfortunately, this dress will remain an unrealizable dream if you do not arm yourself with a basic pattern and model exactly the same model.
Modeling stages and rules
The design process begins with a technical drawing and modification of the top or bottom of the main pattern:
- the selected model is divided into correctly constructed parts according to the most accurately taken measurements;
- body features are taken into account;
- allowances are made for seams or loose fitting, depending on the chosen style and material.
The modeling ends with cutting and sewing.
Modeling the bodice by transferring darts
The first step towards modifying the dress is to move the upper chest dart. There are many ways to transfer, for example, into the armhole cut, into the waist or neckline, into the middle of the front, or into the drapery.
To do this, you need to outline its new position so that it is directed to the highest point of the chest. Further along the lines, the pattern is cut and the old dart is closed, revealing a new one.
Below are common options for transferring a bust dart.
To transfer the dart in the shoulder seam to two soft folds, draw two lines on the pattern (in the example indicated by a dotted line) at a distance of 2 cm. Connect the top of the dart with the drawn lines. Close the dart by cutting the pattern along the lines.
Here is an example of a dress with a cutout on the shoulders, where the dart is transferred to the neckline. Then the sleeve is completed and the skirt is lengthened.
Creating draperies
It’s a little more difficult to transfer the dart into the drapery. This is done like this:
- On wallpaper or a sheet of paper, use a pencil to trace the outline of the unfolded front bodice pattern.
- From the tops of the two bottom and top right darts, draw lines to the left shoulder. Close the darts, leaving only the left breast piece uncovered.
- Having moved the darts apart, trace a new outline of the bodice, smoothly connecting the top points of the left shoulder.
You can translate both darts at once:
- On the unfolded front bodice, apply shaped bold lines and drapery direction lines.
- On the left half, move the tops of the darts to the upper end of the shaped line (i.e. F) and circle their new position.
- On the right half, raise the top of the second waist dart to the top of the chest dart.
- First, cut out the pattern along the outline, then cut it along the drawn lines.
The shaded areas on the pattern are fabric allowances when cutting, which are needed to create draperies.
Swing collar
A beautiful drape at the neckline can be created in many ways, but they start with closing the dart.
- Measure the length of the shoulder seam, then draw the shaped lines. Cut them, leaving 1 cm uncut along the shoulder line.
- Expand the resulting parts, draw a horizontal line from the highest point of the shoulder line.
- Create a one-piece lapel.
A few more examples of modeling a “swing” collar.
Modeling a fluffy dress
A short dress with a voluminous skirt and an asymmetrical cutout on the bodice will allow you to be a queen at any celebration.
- On the front bodice, move the left breast dart to the side seam, and the right one to the waist line.
- Move the left dart at the waist 2 cm to the center.
- Reduce the shoulder length to 7 cm and make the neckline higher.
- Make the armholes 2 cm deeper.
- Draw a petal-shaped cutout and cut the pattern along the modeled lines.
- On the back, as on the front, shorten the shoulder and deepen the armhole.
- Draw a triangular cutout, leaving 23 cm along the middle line.
For the skirt, draw a rectangle of the required length, the width of which will be equal to two hip circumferences. If the width of the fabric is not enough, cut the skirt out of two pieces.
The petticoat consists of two parts:
- 1st – top, 25 cm long and one and a half waist circumference wide;
- 2nd – bottom, width equal to two hip circumferences.
The entire length of the petticoat is made 2 cm shorter than the skirt.
Constructing loose dress patterns
A loose-fitting dress is an option that is created in a hurry, because it is suitable for a beginner in sewing. It does not require a zipper, it simply leaves an unstitched area along the back for sewing on a button.
- Mark the back with a dotted line and spread it 12-14 cm. The splendor of the folds will depend on the angle of inclination.
- Round the hem line and make the armhole and neckline deeper.
- On the front of the dress, move the chest dart to the waist. The front should be a little more flared, so add 4 cm to the bottom line of the back and front.
- The side lines of the two parts are straight segments.
If you want a dress that is short in front and long in back, on the back pattern created above, measure the desired length in the middle of the fold and draw rounded lines to the side seams.
Modeling a short dress - the sun is similar to a real flower, as it allows you to create volume with many coattails.
Having drawn a rectangle, create a pattern for the front and back with a shoulder length of about 5 cm. Cut out the parts with a fold.
Dress from Dior
An unusual fitted dress from the catwalk, decorated with a cord and with two pockets, will appeal to many.
When modeling this dress, you need to take into account some nuances:
- The relief from the neckline smoothly extends to the back through the side seam.
- There is a zipper inserted in the side sections.
- The sleeve is made with two seams, one of them will hide the cord.
- Sleeve cuffs are stitched. If the fabric is very dense, the sleeve flap on the inside can be made from lining fabric.
- Patch pockets.
- If the fabric frays, immediately process the cuts, for example with an overlocker.
- The cord is sewn by hand, with hidden stitches, on both sides.
Creating a basic dress pattern with sleeves is the main stage in design. But also the most difficult, especially for a beginner. Today I will show you step by step how I build a pattern, and, as always, I will try to make it clear and visual. I wish you that by the end of this master class, each of you will have your own basic pattern for a dress with a sleeve!
If you don’t yet know how many advantages and opportunities such a pattern opens up for a tailor, I’ll tell you now.
An individual pattern improves the quality of the product’s fit, reduces or completely eliminates the number of changes made during fitting, and also minimizes the number of fittings to one. At first, my clients were surprised that I invited them to try on only once, since they were used to running to the studio three or four times, but my method is about quick and simple. I am a lazy person by nature, and if I can simplify or automate something, I will definitely do it.
Why do you need a basic pattern?
- Ready-made patterns are made to fit a standard figure. Do you have a standard size figure? If not, create the patterns yourself. You will be able to take into account all the features of your figure - breast size, posture, hips, bulge of the abdomen.
- All patterns for different product models are obtained by modeling the base pattern. That is, having built the base once, you will then be able to sew more than a hundred clothing models using it!
- Sometimes creating something new is easier than redoing it. Correcting and adjusting a finished pattern will take no less time than making a new pattern.
- It happens that you want to sew something for which there is no pattern. For example, you saw her in a store, in a photo or to an unfamiliar girl.
- Even if you use ready-made patterns from magazines, you can adjust the product if you only know the principles of design, that is, you know what to adjust and how to do it. And in the basic pattern, changes after fitting are minimal and even a beginner in sewing can cope with them, or are completely reduced to zero.
Well, do you also want to make your sewing easier? Then let's learn how to build a pattern ourselves.
What design technique will I use?
In design I use the EMKO method. It stands for the Unified Method of Clothes Design, it was invented back in the Soviet era, it is time-tested and is still successfully used by leading studios and fashion houses.
In fact, there are many technologies in design - this is the English system, Muller and Son, TsOTSHL and others. And in the end, when building according to one of them, a pattern is obtained for the model that is planned. But from the height of my many years of experience, I can say that the best technique is experience! Only by trying and experimenting, constantly working and learning new things can you find the very system for creating ideal patterns.
The design method is a tool in the hands of the tailor. Therefore, you can not stop at one system, take for yourself the best from each and draw on something new.
Therefore, I advise you not to sin on the methodology; if your product does not fit your figure perfectly, analyze your work, perhaps you made mistakes in the calculations.
To create a basic dress pattern I needed
- Dress measurements that I took
- Tools - a neck pattern, a ruler, a measuring tape, A1 scale paper - two sheets, a pencil, a calculator.
Increases in looseness of fit for the basic dress pattern
Before you start building the base, you need to know that the measurements in the pattern are not laid out “clean”, but with increases. What are these meanings? Increases are a value that determines the freedom of fit of the product. Here we will take increases designed for maximum fit, that is, for a dress.
Increases in calculations are indicated with the prefix - P. In my construction, the following types of increases will appear:
- PG - increase in chest - 3 cm.
- Fri - increase in waist - 1 cm.
- Pb - increase in hip circumference - 0 cm.
- Pspr - increase in armhole freedom - 2.5 cm.
- Pore - increase in sleeve girth - 4 cm.
- Pshs - increase in back width - 1 cm.
- Pshg - increase in neck width - 1 cm.
In the figure you can clearly see how the increase in Pspr determines the level of fit of the sleeve along the armhole. Depending on the value of the increase that you choose when constructing, it will depend on which sleeve you get in the finished product.
Basic dress pattern with sleeves step by step instructions
Creating a dress base design begins with constructing a rectangle or grid and drawing basic lines. In construction I will use the abbreviations adopted for measurements:
- girths with the prefix O are integer values. Example - Og is a measurement of chest circumference
- half girths with the prefix C - half measurements. For example – Сг – half-grip of the chest, that is, this is the measurement Og/2
Mesh calculation
01. I build a right angle with its vertex at point H.
Waistline:
H T - from point H up, measure Du
Neck base line:
T A0 - from point T up, measure Dts
02. Armhole line (chest):
T G - from point T up, measure Vboch - Pspr (2.5 cm)
03. Hip line:
T B - from point T down 0.4 * Sat
04. The width of the mesh depends on the measurement Bust circumference (Og), therefore:
G G3 = from point G I put aside the measure Cr3 + Pg (3 cm.)
Through G3 I draw a line for the middle of the shelf. I designate on the drawing the resulting points - a1, G3, T3, B3, H3.
05. Back width
G G1 = set aside the measurement Shs + Pshs (1 cm), from point G1 I draw up the vertical G1a
06. Armhole width
G1 G4 = Or/3 + Pg*0.5
How to check the correctness of the calculation of the “Armhole width” value? Each size has its own values, so I always check the table:
The remaining value (G4 G3) is the width of the shelf. In this case, the width of the back and the width of the shelf should not differ much.
Back calculation
07. Neck width:
A0 A2 = measurement Ssh/3 + Pshg (1 cm.)
Neck depth:
A0 A = A0 A2 / 3
I build a rectangle and use a pattern to create a round neck.
08. Construction of the final shoulder point - P1:
From point A2 I lay off a segment equal to Shn, while from point T I lay off a segment equal to Vpks. At the intersection of these two dimensions: the Shp measures and the Vpks measures, I get point P1.
09. Construction of the armhole:
P1 P2 = lower the perpendicular from P1 to line G1 a
Backrest control point (P3):
G1 P3 = (G1 P2 / 3) + 2
Bisector (G1 1) = 0.2 * G1 G4 + 0.5
G1 G2 = G1 G4 / 2
From point G2 I lower the vertical line down to the horizontal waist line.
Shelf calculation
10. T3 A3 - traffic accident measure up.
I draw a horizontal line through point A3:
Neck width = A0 A2 (from the back drawing) – 0.5 cm.
A3 A5 - Neck depth = A3 A4 + 1 cm. I build a rectangle and use a pattern to create a round neck.
11. G3 G6 - measure Tsg, through point G6 I draw a vertical line to the waist line, at the intersection of the lines I get point T6.
12. From point A4, using a measuring stick Bg, I make a notch with an arc on the line G6 T6. I get point G7 - the center of the chest. It can turn out either above or below the chest line, or it can intersect with it, it depends on the type of figure.
13. Opening of the chest dart (point A9):
A4 A9 = 2 (Shg2 – Shg1) +2
At the intersection of these two dimensions: the segment (A4 A9) and the segment (G7 A4) - I get point A9.
14. Shoulder cut ( A9 P5):
I get point P5 by crossing the Vppk measure from point G7 at the intersection of the Shp measure from point A9.
I connect point P5 with point A9 and get a shoulder section of the shelf.
15. Shelf opening
G4 P4 = G4 P5 along an arc from point G4
Shelf control point (P6)
G4 P6 = G4 P4 / 3
Bisector (G4 2) = Bisector from the drawing of the back (G1 1) – 0.5 cm.
P6 P5 I connect a straight line and divide the resulting segment by 2 - I get point 3. From point 3 I put up a perpendicular of 0.5 - 1 cm. I connect points P5, P6, 2, G2 with a smooth curve - I draw the armhole of the shelf. I remember that the angle at point P5 is 90
Darts
Calculation of darts = (segment T T3 – (St + Pt))/ 4.
I distribute the resulting difference between the back and front details in the waist and side darts.
Center of waist dart on backrest runs in the middle of the segment G G2, descends from the chest line G G3 4 cm down, descends from the waist line T T1 10 cm down
Dart cent shelf runs along the center of the chest G6 T6, descends from the chest line G G3 4 cm down, descends from the waist line T T1 12 cm down.
In order to construct side darts along the hip line, you need to calculate the difference using the formula: segment BB3 - (Sb + Pb). We divide the resulting value (it can be either positive or negative, it depends on the type of figure) in half.
And with a positive value we retreat along the line of the hips of the back to the right, and along the shelf to the left. For a negative value, the opposite is true. In the picture below, the side slices intersect, which means I got a positive difference.
If the value is zero, the side darts meet at one point.
With a negative value, the side darts are located further away from each other. 
Construction of a drawing of a straight set-in sleeve
The construction of the sleeve also begins with drawing the mesh.
01. Sleeve hem (O1 O2):
In the drawing of the shelf and back, I connect the end shoulder points P1 and P5, divide the resulting segment in half, lower the perpendicular down to the chest line G G3. I measure the length of the resulting segment - a perpendicular.
The height of the sleeve cap (O1 O2) = the resulting segment minus Pspr (increase in armhole freedom) minus “Value for the development of the deltoid muscle of the arm”:
- for sizes 44 - 46: 2.5 cm.
- for sizes 48 - 52: 2 cm.
- for sizes 54 - 56: 1.5 cm.
02. Sleeve width(O1 P1) = O1 P2 = Measure Or + Por (increase in sleeve girth)/2
O1 Рп = segment O1 Р1 /2
O1 Рл = segment O1 Р2 /2
03. The length of the sleeve(O2 M1) = Measure Dr. I draw horizontal lines left and right and get points M2 and M3.
03. Rp 1 = G4 P6 (control point from the shelf drawing). From point 1 I move 0.5 cm to the right and place point 1’
04. RL P3 = G1 P3 (control point from the back drawing). From point P3 I move 0.5 cm to the left and place point P3’
05. I connect P3’ and P2 with a straight line and divide them in half. I get point 4. From point 4 there is a perpendicular (1-2 cm)
06. O2 O6 = O2 O4 / 2
I connect O6 and O3 with a straight line, O6 (3) – the bisector of the angle P3’ O6 O2 = 1 – 2 cm.
07. O2 O5 = O2 O3 / 2 + 2 cm, set aside the resulting value from O2 to O5.
I connect O5 and 1’ with a straight line, O5 (2) – the bisector of the angle O2 O5 1’ = 1.5 – 2.5 cm.
08. Рп 8’ = bisector from the drawing of the shelf armhole (G4 2) + 1 cm.
09. I draw the okat line by smoothly connecting the points: P2, P3’, 3, O2, 2, 1’, 8’, P1.
The drawing located to the left of point O2 is the back of the sleeve, to the right is its shelf. The control point, the center of the O2 sleeve, is transferred 1 cm to the shelf.
After constructing the sleeve, it is necessary to check the length of the edge. It should correspond to the length of the armhole from the base drawing + (1 - 1.5 cm) for fitting.
This completes the basic pattern of a dress with a sleeve, step by step instructions. I hope you were able to figure out all the calculations, and you got your own pattern, which you can now use to sew more than a hundred models of things, and they will fit perfectly on your figure!
Video lesson - building the basic pattern of a dress and sleeves. Taking measurements
Two detailed video lessons lasting 40 minutes:
01. Construction of a dress with a fitted silhouette and set-in sleeves step by step (increases for freedom of fit, checking the pattern for correct construction and calculating formulas)
02. Taking measurements of a woman’s figure for a dress and trousers (tools and terminology for taking measurements, how to properly prepare for taking measurements, basic rules, table for taking measurements)
They will be in full-length video, a format that can be viewed from any device. Access to the lessons will be available immediately after payment on the training platform for 3 months.
You can start creating a base pattern in sizes 44-58 for a dress, blouse or jacket. I have been using this method for 18 years now, its main advantages are that the pattern is easy, quick, logical, and very accurate. 7 minutes is enough for me, along with calculations. When trying on, a small adjustment of volume and length is sufficient.
The principle is the same, only the allowances for a loose fit differ. For the base pattern of a dress and blouse, 6 cm is enough, for a jacket with a fitted silhouette - 8 cm, for a coat, depending on the style, 10-16.
Basic pattern 44-58 sizes for a dress, blouse, jacket.
It’s better to explain this using a specific example, then we will learn how to build a base pattern for a blouse or dress of size 48.
How to do it more precisely in the next article.
Our pattern will be up to the hip line. For a dress with a straight silhouette, it is enough to extend it to the required length.
Basic measurements.
Back measurements.
Dst (back length to waist) – 41
Shsp (back width) – 35
Shoulder width – 12
Front measurements.
DPT (front length to waist) – 43.5
VH (chest height) – 26.5
CG (centre of chest) – 18
Vhk (oblique chest height) – 24
SH (chest width) – 37
Gp (armhole depth) – 20
Necessary preliminary calculations.
The peculiarity of this method is that the main measurement when constructing a base pattern is chest circumference. A control line is drawn through the front OG point, and all other measurements are taken, based on calculations, relative to this line.
We calculate the OG for the base pattern: add an allowance for a loose fit to the OG measurement. In our example - 6 cm. Then divide in half.
OG = 96 + 6 = 102: 2 = 51: 2 = 25.5
According to the rules for constructing a pattern, the basis is, and in order for the product to look beautiful on the figure, the front pattern must be wider than the back pattern. Therefore, to the resulting measurement of 25.5, for the front half, add 0.5, and subtract 0.5 for the back.
Before: 25.5 + 0.5 = 26
Back: 25.5 – 0.5 = 25
Calculation of darts at the waist line.
In order to determine the size of the side darts, front and back, add 3-4 cm to the waist circumference and divide in half: FROM = 75 + 3 = 78: 2 = 39
Then subtract the resulting figure from half the exhaust gas value with an allowance:
(96 + 6) : 2 = 51 – 39 = 12.
12 cm – the sum of all darts. There are 4 of them on the pattern: two side darts, front and back darts.
3 cm - the size of each dart and side seam deflection from the auxiliary line.
Calculation of the hip line.
3-4 cm is added to the hip circumference for a loose fit: 101 + 3 = 104: 2 = 52.
The difference between half the OB with allowances and half the OG with allowances is plotted from the control line. If the hips are narrow, then the side line of the front will be shifted to the right, if they are wide, to the left.
In our example, the calculated half OG = 51, and half OB = 52. The difference is only a centimeter. Therefore, when constructing the front, we will need to set aside 0.5 cm to the left of the control line, and when constructing the back, to the right.
52 - 51 = 1: 2 = 0,5
We build a grid - the main lines of the base pattern.
It is more convenient to create a pattern on tracing paper. If all the measurements are taken accurately and the calculations are made correctly, then you will get the same beautiful and proportional pattern as in the top collage.
From point 1 (upper right corner) draw vertical and horizontal lines. On the vertical line we lay down the accident (the length of the front to the waist). Draw a horizontal waist line.
The hip line is located 18-22 cm lower, depending on height. On average, I draw a line at a distance of 20 cm, both when creating patterns for a dress or jacket, and when creating a skirt pattern.
The chest line is drawn from the waist line at a distance calculated as follows:
From the armhole depth measurement (DPR), 1.5-2 cm is deducted for a sleeveless dress or top, 2-2.5 cm for a dress with a single-seam sleeve, 2.5-3 cm for a fitted jacket, 3-7 cm for coat, depending on the sleeve style.
The value of this measurement for size 48 is 19-23 cm, in our example – 20 cm.
Gpr = 20 – 2 = 18 cm. Set aside 18 cm from the waist line up and draw a horizontal chest line.
Construction of the front pattern.
From the top corner, from point 1, set aside 7.5 cm to the left and down for sizes 46-48. For 50-56 – 8 cm. This value is half the width of the neck. It can be deepened or expanded during modeling. Place point 2.
From point 2 to the left, measure 9 cm on the vertical line of the pattern grid, place point 3, at a distance of 3 cm down from it, place point 4, connect points 2 and 4 - this is the slope of the shoulder line. Set aside 7-8 cm on the line and place point 5.
On the chest line, set aside 26 cm from the center of the front to the left (half of the OG + 0.5 cm) and place a point 6. Draw a vertical line until it intersects with the hip line. Place point 7 on the waist line, and point 8 on the hip line.
We are building the upper front.
From point 5 on the shoulder line we set aside a distance equal to the size of the chest dart.
The size of the chest dart for sizes 42-60.
The first number is the OG without allowances, the second is the dart size.
82 – 84 cm – 6.5 cm
88 – 90 cm – 7.5 cm
95 - 96 cm – 8.5 cm
100 cm – 9.5 cm
104 – 105 cm – 11 cm
110 – 112 cm – 12.5 cm
122 – 125 cm – 15 cm
For size 48, from point 5, continuing the shoulder line, set aside the width of the chest dart to the left 8.5 cm. Place point 9.
From point 2 down, set aside the VG and place the CG point. The distance from it to the line of the middle front is half the distance of the measurement of the center of the chest (CH) with an allowance of 1 - 2 cm:
(18 + 1) = 19: 2 = 9.5 cm
From this point down, draw a vertical line - the center of the front dart. Its width is, for our example, 3 cm. Set aside 1.5 cm on both sides of the line. Connect the CG point and the dart points.
Draw a chest dart.
To do this, connect points 5 and 9 to the CG point.
Chest and shoulder width lines.
In order to carry them out and set aside the measured measurements, we fold the tracing paper with the pattern as in the collage picture: both lines of the chest dart should coincide. Secure the dart with pins.
Then continue the shoulder line and place a point corresponding to the measured measurement: 12 cm
We draw a line for the width of the chest: approximately divide the distance of the height of the front to the waist (Vpt) in half, and draw it 2 cm higher. Set aside a measurement equal to (WG + 1) : 2 = 18. If you are not sure that the front or back width measurements are measured correctly, add 2 cm - you will trim off the excess allowance during the fitting.
The VHA measurement (oblique chest height) is a control measure. Everyone's shoulder angle is different. For sloping shoulders, you will need to draw the shoulder line lower than the drawn line, in accordance with the VGK measurement, and for sports-type figures - higher.
After you have specified the width and slope of the shoulder line, chest width, straighten the pattern and draw the front armhole line through the shoulder points, chest width and point 6.
Side darts.
The side seams of the front and back patterns must completely match, both in curve and length. The size of the side dart, according to our calculations, is 3 cm. Set them aside from the control line, from point 7 to the right.
Hip line.
For our example, according to calculations, it is necessary to move only 0.5 cm to the left of the control line.
Connect all the resulting points: on the chest, waist and hips. The construction of the front pattern is now complete.
Back pattern.
It's much easier to build now. On the fold line of the pattern we put aside, from the waist line up, a measurement equal to the length of the back (Dst) = 41 cm
Just as when constructing the front pattern, set aside the neck width, 7.5 cm for size 48, only to the right - point 10.
From the resulting point we measure 9 cm to the right and 2.5 cm down. Draw a shoulder line and set aside the measured measurement - 12 cm.
The depth of the neckline cut along the back is usually 2 – 2.5 cm. From point 10 to the left, draw a smooth line for the back neckline.
To create a pattern for full figures, I advised measuring an additional measurement - the height of the back from the 7th vertebra to the waist. In principle, you can simply draw a deeper neck line - 3 cm.
On the chest line, set aside the calculated measurement: Back OG (OG + 6): 2) – 0.5 cm = 25 cm Draw a reference line down. Along the waist line, immediately set aside the size of the side dart - 3 cm
Back width line.
Divide the distance between the shoulder line and the OG line of the back in half, and draw 1 cm lower, closer to the OG line. In our example, ShSp = 35 cm
(35 + 2) : 2 = 18.5 cm
Back dart.
Divide the calculated back measurement in half, then set the resulting figure minus 0.5-1 cm from the fold line - this way the dart looks more neat, and the product: a blouse, dress or jacket, fits the back more softly. Dart size – 3 cm
Sometimes, when there is a very noticeable kink in the back, I change the size of the front and back darts. I reduce the front ones by 0.5-1 cm, and increase them on the back.
On the hip line to the right, set aside the calculated value, the same as when constructing the front pattern. In our example, this is 0.5 cm. Draw a side seam line, gently rounding it at the waist line.
In order to adjust the created base pattern, buy a meter of inexpensive cotton fabric - this will be enough for both the main pattern and the pattern for a short single-seam sleeve.
Products with a central seam on the back: dresses and jackets, are easier to adjust during fitting, they fit the figure more accurately and are slimming, since the total volume is “broken” into vertical components.
You can cut out the back with a central seam - the pattern will be more accurate. In order not to change the volume along the waistline, reduce the back dart by 1 cm, and make a smooth bend of 1 cm on the central seam line
When cutting out the front halves of the base pattern, add an allowance of 2.5-3 cm along the middle line, so that during fitting it is more convenient to fix the volume with pins. On the right shelf, fold it to the wrong side and baste it, and on the left shelf, draw or baste the middle line.
When trying on, secure the shelves exactly along these lines. If the cut base is wide or narrow, adjust the volume using side seams and darts.
When basting, it is important to accurately align the notches on the waist line: the front and back should not be shifted relative to each other. If the front half of the product is shifted downwards, oblique creases are formed from the side seam in the direction from bottom to top. If it is shifted upward, the creases can be both on the back and on the shelf in the chest area.
If the measurements are taken accurately and the base pattern is constructed correctly, then you can do the fitting quickly, without significant changes. Learn how to model a dress, jacket or vest using this pattern in the following articles.
I decided to sew myself a little black dress. I invite you to do this with me.
To create a basic dress pattern, we need the following measurements:
ОШ - neck circumference ( POS 18 cm)
OG - chest circumference ( POG 46 cm)
OG1 - a measuring tape passes along the shoulder blades, armpits and lies along the line above the breasts ( POG1 43 cm)
OT - waist circumference ( POT 37 cm)
OB - hip circumference ( FOB 50 cm)
DTS - back length ( 39 cm)
DR - sleeve length ( 60 cm)
Road accident - front waist length ( 37 cm)
Lpl - shoulder length ( 13 cm)
ShS - back width (36 cm)
ШП - front width. We measure along the most convex points of the front from the point of articulation of the torso and left arm to the point of articulation of the torso and right arm ( 37 cm)
CG - center of the chest. We measure along a horizontal line between the most convex points of the breasts. We write down half the value ( 9 cm)
VG - chest height (25 cm)
DI is the length of the product, in this case the length of the dress. It is measured from the back along the back from the waist line along the spine to the waist, and then down to the length you need (100 cm).
Loose fit allowances:
5 cm - along the chest line
2 cm - along the hips
1 cm - along the waist line
We start the pattern by constructing a back pattern
On a piece of paper we draw a vertical line (the center of the back) and at a right angle we draw an upper horizontal line (the neck line).
Determine the line of the hips.
Down from point T we will set aside 1/2 of the DTS and designate the new point with the letter B.
39/2=19.5 (cm)
Let's draw a line from point B to line BH1 and put t.B1.
Let's draw a cut of the neck.
To the right of point A we will set aside 1/3 plus NOS 0.5 cm and put t.A3.
18/3 plus 0.5=6.5 (cm)
Up from point A3 we set aside the value 1/10 NOS plus 0.8 and draw t.A4.
18/10 plus 0.8= 2.6 (cm)
From point A4 we will draw a segment at an angle of 45 degrees to line AB. The length of the segment is 1/10 POSH-0.3 cm. We put t.A5.
18/10-0.3=0.5 (cm)
We connect points A, A5, A4 with a curve.
Let's construct the shoulder section of the dress.
Let us put a segment down from point A1, which is equal to:
2.5 cm - normal shoulders
3.5 cm - sloping shoulders
1.5 cm - high shoulders
My shoulders are normal, so I choose the value - 2.5 cm.
Let's put 2.5 cm down from point A1 and put t.P.
Now let’s connect points A4 and P. From t.A4 towards t.P we will postpone the measurement of Dpl, adding 2 cm to the future dart and set t.P1.
13 plus 2=15 (cm)
Now from t.A4 on line A4P1 to the right we will set aside 4 cm and place t.O. Down from this point we will draw a line that will be equal to 8 cm and put t.O1.
On line A4P1 from point O to the right, set aside 2 cm and put t.O2. Let's connect points O and O2. Segment O2 O should be the same as O1 O. Where the resulting segment goes beyond point O2, we put t.O3.
Let's connect point O3 and point P1.
Determine the depth of the armhole. Down from t.P we will set aside 1/4 LOG plus 7 cm - for a normal figure (or 7.5 cm - for a stooped figure, or 6.5 cm - for a kinked figure) and put t.G.
46/4 plus 7.5= 19 (cm)
Through t.G we draw a parallel line to line AB, mark points G1, G2, G3.
We recheck the received value. To do this, you need to attach a measuring tape to the shoulder line and measure down 19 cm. This should be the point of contact between the arm and the body.