Jacket under a red shirt. Men's shirt - a versatile wardrobe item

People who wear suits often tend to choose shirts in soothing colors: white, blue, striped, and plaid. It so happened that the jacket and trousers must be darker than the shirts. The same applies to casual wear. But what about black shirts that don't fit into the usual concept? There are separate rules for them to help you look great.

Why do I need a black shirt?

White is usually associated with purity, red with passion, but black carries a certain shade of mystery. Who believe that this color is associated with power and strength. If you want to try on the bad guy look, a black shirt is just what you need. Another plus: black is combined with almost all colors, however, too much contrast can add unnecessary drama to you.

In general, you need to remember that a black shirt is not the most pliable piece of clothing. Ideally, you need to add it to your wardrobe when you have a good understanding of the style and are confident in your taste. For the rest - we will help!

Who can wear black shirts? In general, everyone. Although most of all dark shirts go to dark-skinned people with dark hair. Then the color of the shirt and hair partly overlap, beautifully framing the face. But if you are blonde with fair skin, such shirts are not contraindicated for you either. A dark color accentuates the face, remember at least Steve Jobs with his famous black turtleneck. In this case, dark clothing makes the interlocutor or listener more closely follow your emotions, facial expressions, and eyes. If you don't want to be the center of attention, wear something simpler.

What does a dark shirt work well with?

Remember one of the main rules of men's style - items of clothing that are visually located next to each other (for example, a shirt and a suit) should differ in color at least slightly. More is better. Therefore, it is considered risky to wear a shirt and a suit of the same tone; so they merge and look like a solid dark spot. If you choose this combination, you must clearly understand why you are doing it. In other cases, if you already decided to wear a black shirt under the suit, the suit, let it be gray.

For the same reason, a black shirt should not be worn with a navy suit or trousers. Try to choose something light or medium in tone. Good options are beige, light brown, gray pants, jeans. When choosing a belt, be guided by the set as a whole: only a black belt is appropriate with a black suit, a brown belt is also suitable with jeans.

You should always remember about other features of dark shirts. Ties of any color are categorically not combined with them. Dark blue, graphite, burgundy and other shades will be lost on a dark background, while a light one will twist the contrast of the suit to the maximum and make your appearance comical.

Always at ease: what and where to wear

First of all, it should be understood that black shirts are not on the “good boy's” list of suitable clothes. Forget about it if you are going to a bank interview or a dignified official event. Such clothes are considered informal, although they look like ordinary shirts for a suit. But in those places where you can dress a little more loosely or informally, no one will be embarrassed by your new fatal image.

Dark shirts that have multiple colors do not go well with suits. A black and white two-tone shirt (with white cuffs / collar) is good on its own, but if you need to throw something over it, let it be something informal. A white blazer and a black shirt are classic elements of the Mafia's wardrobe. This combo would be appropriate for a 60s-style costume party, otherwise it is worth thinking about this combination well.

The black shirt attracts many with its feigned mystery. It seems that as soon as you put it on, you are already a little George Clooney or at least Colin Farrell. The truth is that such shirts need to take a closer look and remember what to combine them with and where to wear them. This will help you avoid mistakes that many beginners make. When you know your goals and understand how you can achieve them, you can compete with seasoned stylists. Good luck!

Men's clothing is full of conventions. And the older the piece of clothing, the more rules and tricks accompany it. Today FURFUR will try to figure out another slippery question - is it possible to wear a tie without a jacket.

If you strictly follow the letter of classic men's fashion, then the answer is simple: you can't. A tie is more formal than a jacket, so there are situations when a jacket without a tie is quite appropriate, but if the situation requires a tie, then it certainly means a jacket. Of course, except for cases when the jacket had to be taken off - because of the heat or, say, the need to swim across a stormy river.

But, fortunately, not all of us have to strictly follow the classical canons. For those who are not constrained by an office dress code, a tie is no longer a repressive item and not a stranglehold that you want to throw off after the end of the working day, but an opportunity to diversify your wardrobe, add color, texture, and panache to it.

But there are dangers here. Basically, of course, this is the danger of becoming like a consultant in a mobile phone salon, an archetypal American "nerd" or, worst of all, a Mormon missionary. For starters, the shirt you wear the tie with should fit well. What is not visible under a jacket or sweater immediately becomes apparent as soon as the shirt remains the only piece of clothing: wide sagging sleeves, a too wide hem sticking out from under a belt bag. The tie itself should be casual enough. That is, a silvery shiny silk tie is not the best option to wear without a jacket. But a tie made of chambray, woolen, knitted silk, raw silk or other textured tie will be quite good. In this case, the tie should not be too wide. If from under the jacket only the upper part of the tie is usually visible, and the lowest and thickest part is hidden under the buttons, then without a jacket everything is in plain sight. However, herring ties can also look a little comical. As usual, you have to be careful with extremes.

It is better that the shirt with which you wear the tie was with long sleeves (they can be rolled up, after all), but the short sleeve will inevitably add "Mormonism".

All the "sins" of a tie become visible when it is worn without a jacket. This applies primarily to the length. According to the rules, the tip of the tie should be on the belt plate. In fact, it can be slightly shorter - the main thing is that it does not hang below the belt and that there are no more than a few centimeters between the belt and the end of the tie, otherwise it will seem that it is a tie with an elastic band.

And finally, so that the tie does not dangle, it is wise to press it down with a tie bar. There is also a more dashing option - to tuck a tie under the shirt between the second and third or third and fourth buttons, the so-called military tuck-in. This "military" way of wearing a tie looks very impressive - for example, Nick Wooster loves it very much - and at the same time saves the tie from an unexpected dip in the soup.

Today I would like to touch upon one very important circumstance: in which cases the jacket is unbuttoned, in which it is fastened... In the hands of a literate man, these actions are not performed in a chaotic manner, but in accordance with certain regulations, logical rules of good taste.

In any business setting of an official nature, in the presence of ladies, bosses and other persons of higher status, a jacket must always be buttoned ... You should also perform in front of the public in a buttoned jacket.

The jacket should be unbuttoned when the man sits down. To avoid the effect shown in the photo:

These actions should be brought to automatism, become a habit: we sit down - with a slight movement of our hand we unbutton the buttons of our jacket, we get up - we fasten.

Let me explain why. Put on under a business suit, a classic shirt, made of fine cotton, silk. Historically, this item of men's wardrobe is actually chemise and belongs to the category underwear... From time immemorial, it performed its functions exclusively as underwear. Remember the historical films, a man will always wear this white wide shirt with long sleeves. You will find a more detailed story following the link.

Shirt radically different from his sister. Initially, it was called a shirt and belonged to the category of the so-called. outerwear or, rather, work... It was made, respectively, from coarse wear-resistant fabrics. You will find a more detailed story following the link.

Modern shirts have not lost their original function, however, they are sewn from fabrics more pleasant to the body (jeans, flannel, cotton) and look much more aesthetically pleasing than their ancestors. Today this garment is a typical representative of walking or casual styles. Various denim or flannel in the "country" style - these will be representatives of the walking style. And despite the fact that in many stores the shirt is positioned in casual, you need to understand that you should not come to work (even on casual Friday). There is a risk of earning a "minus" to reputation for lack of taste and inability to dress appropriately for the place.

The more sophisticated cotton ones are casual and suitable for solo performances in very, very informal situations.

Shirt, as has happened historically, men wear under: under a jacket, under a jumper, under a vest, etc. The shirt's cuffs can be fastened with either a button or a cufflink.

Shirt wear over T-shirts, T-shirts, etc. The shirt cuffs are fastened only with buttons. The shirt can be worn tucked in or out.

Differences.

• Despite the fact that a shirt can also be sewn from thin fabric and outwardly resemble a shirt, the main and defining difference between them is in the length:orochk will always be much longer than the shirt so that it does not have to be constantly corrected and tucked into trousers.


• As a rule, a shirt has buttons along the entire length of the front. On the shirt, the row of buttons ends much higher.


• The last loop of a shirt button can be transverse. This trick prevents the bottom button from coming loose.

And now we display the logic of the rule. Precisely because a man "shines" with his underwear, it is unacceptable to flaunt in front of ladies / public / bosses and dignitaries in an unbuttoned jacket :)

* in the photo - Duma deputies.

- Yes, sir. Please, a little over the pants, sir, a quarter of an inch. A sock should flicker with casual elegance in the gap between the boot and the cuff. This subtlety is extremely important.
- So?
- Perfect, sir.
- There are moments in life, Jeeves, when a person asks himself the question: "Are pants worth such attention?"
“This mood will pass, sir.

P.G. Woodhouse

The original idea of ​​this blog was to write about masculine style, dodging the pitfalls of obvious and hackneyed topics. And nevertheless, I am forced to write a couple of program texts by objective reality. The appearance of today's material is due to two reasons:

1. The myth that "you have to be able to wear costumes." Yes, of course, style is not only clothes, but also self / attitude, but this fact in no way justifies those who say “costumes do not suit me”. To make the suit look good, and the "magic" starts to work, it is enough to adhere to a number of basic rules of fit, about which below.
2. Unconscious delusions and total heresy, which are full of such articles on the Internet, written like a carbon copy. Some of the information in them is hopelessly outdated, while others are initially incorrect. I would like to make material that is relevant today, but at the same time "timeless" in essence.

So, as usual, there are three basic details of a suit - a shirt, trousers and a jacket (not today about accessories). Let's go in order.

Shirt - second skin... The only freedoms that should be in it are those without which you cannot move / breathe (armhole, collar, slight allowance in the waist area). "Sails" sticking out of trousers and fluttering in the wind are not needed. The seam of the shoulder and sleeve stitching should ideally be on the uppermost bone of the shoulder (while writing the post, I learned that it is called "acromion" and is not the edge of the collarbone, as I thought before).

Sleeve length is more a matter of taste and luck. In my opinion, in a modern suit, in a free state, it should reach exactly to the conjugation of the forearm and hand (if you look at the inner side of the hand, this is a "fold" of skin at its base), and retrogrades will probably add another 1-2 centimeters in length. Sleeves shorter than the border of the wrist should not be chosen, especially if the shirt will be worn under a jacket (I will explain why later).

RIGHT HERE

The collar should be fastened with the top button, without restricting breathing, but if this cannot be done (provided that the rest of the shirt fits perfectly) - just wear it with the collar unbuttoned, and putting on a tie, "tighten" the collar with it without buttoning. This is a half measure, but better than a shirt 2-4 sizes too large.

And most importantly (along with the shoulders), on which almost everyone is pierced - the fit at the waist. A shirt is not an informal shirt that can be worn outside! This is an object that repeats your figure, therefore, the critical maximum of freedom that you can see when tucking it into trousers / jeans is the third picture (although I strongly recommend to strictly adhere to the first and second). Despite the terrible stockiness, this illustration conveys the essence well:

In general, if you buy a slim or even regular fit shirt, then you are unlikely to encounter this problem, but just in case - the armhole of the sleeve (this is the place where the torso and the sleeve meet, where the arm is inserted) should also only provide freedom of movement, and no big the amount of tissue should not be there.

In 44, everything was, ahem, a little different.

Pants are specific to different body types and styles... For example, my tongue will not turn to condemn someone's choice of waist height - some can easily go trousers "to the navel" (no kidding, this can work, especially if the wearer knows how and loves to wear clothes in a vintage style), others are shown only super understated waist, but there are still universal rules that will help in choosing.

Rule # 1: waist fit... In order to understand how these or those trousers are generally worn (high, regular, low waist), you need to put them on so that in the crotch zone (sorry, but tailors are people who do not know shame) there is minimal (but, again space that does not hinder comfort and movement (I will make a reservation that we are talking about trousers not from Vivienne Westwood and other extravagant fashion brands). Only then will you see the waistline and be able to conclude whether it is your pants size or not. There is nothing worse than mid / high-waisted trousers that fit the man's hips “perfectly”, leaving a tremendous amount of freedom in the groin area.

If you like the overall fit, but your waist is a few centimeters wider, or at the same as desired - just buy and give the trousers to the master for a fit at the waist. You can, for example, me. ☺

Rule # 2: Pants Length... If you already exactly understood how the pants should fit correctly at the waist (and made sure that they do fit) - look at the length (in this order, not the other way around!). One of the terrible things that almost all "guides" write about is that the trousers should form the mythical "one crease on the shoe." Nowadays, this strange wording misleads many newbies and makes them buy dramatically long trousers, so I would recommend listening to Jeeves' epigraph phrase (“a sock should flicker with casual elegance in the gap between the boot and the cuff”). Too short pants in a business or semi-business style will be extravagant, but let's finally say goodbye to the unkind Soviet tradition of "the more fabric, the better." Remove the bulk, hand over the trousers to the master for hemming (I will not say to whom) and happily wear a piece of clothing that fits your size. Briefly - the length of the trousers should slightly cover the ankle bone... No more.

Fitting a jacket is trickier than meets the eye. Despite the fact that this is one of the most constructively difficult pieces of clothing in the world and its fit has a lot of subtleties, let's start with the basics for now. The main point is the fit of the shoulders. Blazer Shoulder Edge = Your Shoulder Edge! Remember this once and for all. Even in the most relaxed fit, the shoulder line should not extend further than your own shoulder. So, much like a shirt, the top shoulder bone is the beginning of your jacket sleeve. The maximum departure from this point is 1 cm. Most of the remaining defects can be corrected by a craftsman, but the shoulders cannot be adjusted. So take your choice with care.

Simple and clear picture

Further, continuing the discussion of the upper half, - how at the same armhole, the better the jacket... Let me remind you again: the armhole is the place where the sleeves are sewn into the "body" of the jacket. Of course, the phrase about the "best" jacket is exaggerated, but in 90% of cases it is correct. Firstly, a wide armhole is less aesthetic, and secondly, it provides inconvenience when moving and raising hands, and thirdly, a wide armhole is an unambiguous indicator of a factory-made jacket (it guarantees the manufacturer that any customer will "fit" into it). Therefore, make sure that the freedom in the armhole was, if not minimal, then at least moderate.

The length of the jacket is a debatable issue. Again, the first thing you want to do is debunk the myths. The most delusional postulate replicated - free hanging the hand should grasp the edge of the shelf (front of the jacket), then the length is correct . The hands of all people, suddenly, are different, and if she grabbed hold of you, it doesn’t mean anything. With some this rule works, with others it does not, it cannot be called universal in any way.

More sane, but a little outdated cliché for my taste - back the jacket should completely cover the buttocks ... Ok, this might work, provided the rest of the fit looks flawless. But usually in the situation of choosing the first / second / only suit, this is not the case, which means that it will become another "plus" in the piggy bank of features that turn your figure into a kind of sack of potatoes. My personal "rule", which has never failed so far, sounds like this - in a modern suit, the back of the jacket should slightly cover the protruding point of the buttocks(to be more straightforward - the middle of the priests). This minimum is quite enough not to look ridiculous "fashionable", but at the same time to emphasize the figure and lightness. This length is preferable for medium and low waist trousers, in the case of high waist it is better to stop at the retrograde “completely cover the buttocks”. The picture above is an example of a good modern jacket length.

Further - waist issue... I recommend wearing your jacket buttoned up unless otherwise necessary. This means that when fastening the top button, the jacket should take the shape of your body. Of course, this is what happens with ideal suits in an ideal world, but in our case, let's agree on at least one thing (let me repeat the cliché, this time perfectly adequate) - between the shirt and the buttoned-up jacket button there is maximum freedom - the volume of one apple or fist. Anything more is already overkill. If the jacket "tightens" and hinders movement when buttoning, it should also be neglected.

Fit at the waist of a smoker / Fit at the waist of a healthy person (but the sleeves do not fit anywhere)

Your jacket sleeves are longer than necessary... You may be thinking that the jacket should cover the shirt. Perhaps you just haven't thought about this question. Anyway - the sleeves of the jacket should be 1-3 centimeters shorter than that of the shirt... If you do not see the shirt sleeve from under the jacket, immediately go to the master and reduce the jacket sleeve (or change the shirt). A good guideline for the correct length of the jacket sleeve is the bone on the outside of the forearm, turning into the wrist. From it to the brush is just about a couple of centimeters. Shirts with a French cuff (under the cufflink) should look even stronger - by 2-4 cm or, for easier orientation, before the edge / center of the cufflink is visible.

Correct sleeves, correct shoulders, correct armhole.

One more thing - please, do not wear a jacket with three buttons ("2.5 buttons", where one button is at the fold of the lapel, does not count). Just place it on the mezzanine. If you are not a connoisseur of vintage fashion and you are under 45, everyone will think that you inherited it from your dad or grandfather. That LOWER JACKET BUTTON NEVER FASTENED you hopefully know without me. If not, remember it forever and bring it to automatism.

Slots, lapels, buttonholes and other details are more about style than fit, so we will not touch them for now.

If you memorize these simple and completely intuitive basics, you (or your boyfriend) will be cooler than Colin Firth.

Well, ok, you won't, but at least get a little closer.

Reposting to other resources - only with the mention of the original address.

Subscribe to blog news