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The middle line of the back. Designing for Beginners: How to Build a Sheath Dress

Building the midline of the back drawing patterns of shoulder products.

For straight products

It carries a structural load in the upper part of the backrest, a dart is created to fit the convexity of the shoulder blades.

From point AND the top of the middle line deviates to the right by 0.5 cm for typical figures and by 1 cm for stooped figures, denoted by a dot AND*.

Deviation from the vertical at the waist line T T1 \u003d 1 cm.

Points A * U T1 connect with a smooth line. Point T1 connect with a straight line to a point B1 and continue it down. The point of intersection of this straight line with the bottom line is denoted by H1.

For semi-adjacent and fitted forms

1) The middle line does not bear the structural load T T1 \u003d 2-2.5 cm.

Points AND and T1 connect with a straight line, which we continue down to the point H1.

2) The mid-cut line carries the structural load

А А * \u003d (from 0.5-1 cm)

T T1 \u003d 1.5 cm

T1 T11 \u003d (from 0.7-1.5 cm) tuck solution at the waist.

Draw the line of the middle cut of the back through the points A * Y g T11 B1 H1

Through points T11 and B1 draw a straight line, continuing it down to the intersection with the horizontal from the point H... The intersection point is denoted by H11... Draw the middle cut line through the points A * Y g T11 B1 H11.

For free-form and expanded products

We deviate the middle line in the drawing to the left. H H1 \u003d (from 6 to 10) cm.

Point AND or another point that defines the level of the beginning of expansion, connect to the point H1.

To Draw Side Slice Lines

The side seam can be positioned in the extreme left position - pass through the point D1 or even go on the back by 0.5-1 cm.It can be located both to the right and to the left of the point G1 to 0.5 G1 G4.

The position of the side seam line on the waist line in products of a straight silhouette with a deflection in the side seams and a semi-adjacent silhouette is not determined by calculation, but is found graphically. To do this, we connect the points that determine the position of the side seam on the chest line and on the line of the thighs (or bottom) with straight lines, and then with concave lines, the degree of concavity of which is determined by the back size of the darts opening.

In fitted products, the position of the side sections of the back and the shelf on the waist line is found as follows: we determine the difference between the width of the product on the chest line and the waist line. The difference is equal to:

(Cr2 + Pg) - (St + Pt) - T T1.

The resulting value is the sum of the solutions of the darts and side seams and is denoted ΣB... We distribute it between darts and side cuts.

In the side section of the back, as in the side section of the shelf, we design 1/5 of the total solution of the darts (Σ B) or 1/4 ΣB in both side cuts.

In the drawing, the size of the solution of the tuck, projected in the side cut of the back, is measured along the waist line from the vertical drawn down from the point G5 to the left, and the size of the solution of the tuck projected in the side cut of the shelf - to the right.

To determine the position of the side slices on the hip line, we find the difference between the finished product width along the hips and chest lines. The difference is equal to:

(Sat + Pb) - (Cr2 + Pg) + B B1.

When building a drawing, the width of the product on the hip line must be increased by the resulting value, which we evenly distribute between the shelf and backrest relative to the vertical G5 H2... Or, to a lesser extent, the obtained value is referred to the back and to a greater extent - to the shelf. This applies to products with an open seam on the back side, the smooth design of which is given great attention.

B2 B4 \u003d B2 B5 \u003d ((Sb + Pb) - (Cr2 + P1) + B B1): 2

Then we find the width of the back and the shelf at the bottom. In products of a straight silhouette, the width of the back at the bottom should be equal to the width under the armhole or more by 1-2 cm; the width of the shelf at the bottom should be equal to or greater than the width under the armhole by 1-2 cm for dresses and more than the width under the armhole by 3-5 cm for coats. For free-form products, the expansion at the bottom is much larger.

We determine the width of the back and shelves at the bottom in the products of semi-adjacent and fitted silhouettes, adding 3-10 cm to the width of the product on the hip line.

From the waist line to the hip line, the side cuts are usually drawn with a convex line.

From the line of the hips to the bottom, draw the side sections with straight lines.

In the drawing of products of a straight silhouette of large and medium volume, we draw out the side sections with straight lines, connecting the dots G51 N4 N5

Having drawn the lines of the side slices, they are aligned: G51 H5 \u003d G51 H4 or G5 H5 \u003d G5 H4

In semi-adjacent and fitted products, the side cuts are aligned in sections: upward from the waistline, and then downward from the waistline.

Bottom line.

The line of the bottom of the back in its middle part is always perpendicular to the line of the middle of the back. In products that are significantly widened to the bottom, it is necessary to align the side section of the back from the waist down in length with the middle section of the back, therefore draw the bottom line in the side with a smooth convex line.

Draw the bottom line of the shelf (front) with a smooth convex line, connecting the points H3 H5.

: "Where on the back will the share thread pass, along which line - along the vertical line of the grid or along the outlet line?".
The answer was so obvious that it didn’t last long for a long article. Of course, it is the vertical lines of the grid that must be positioned in accordance with the shared direction of the threads of the fabric, so that there are no distortions in the overall fit of the dress.
Arguments:

  • Both the axes of the darts and the relief seams in the classical case run parallel to the drawing grid.
  • The vertical of the base of matter allows you to beautifully flow around the figure without distortions and creases. This is in the general case, and there are also special Dizaneir techniques, which we are not talking about today.

But - "word for word" - we got into a conversation and found out that the question was not asked from scratch and the answer was not so clear-cut. I propose to deal with an interesting design technique

What is the back midline bend? What is it for?

When we sew clothes with a one-piece back, for example, a blouse, shirt or jacket, then everything is simple: the middle line is strictly vertical and coincides with the warp thread.

But jackets, jackets, coats and dresses of fitted silhouettes require a more precise fit and a beautiful back fit. Here the middle seam comes to the rescue, and it is not cut vertically. The middle seam helps shape the garment around the shoulder blades, waist and hips. It follows the natural curve of the spine, which is different for all people. Often, the waist darts on the back are not enough for a perfect fit, and more deflection and lengthening of the back are required.

The abduction of the midline of the back (the bevel from point 7 of the cervical vertebra to the waist line) is made 1-2 cm for female figures and 1.5-2.5 cm for men. And even 3.5 cm for men's jackets.

Posture in people is different, including the deflection of the lower back and the protrusion of the buttocks, therefore, the abduction of the midline must be "done" for a specific figure. See how it might look:


Design techniques, as a rule, unify and average out the constructed patterns, but in custom tailoring there is a lifeline - fitting.

I looked through my design library and found the difference in the authors' approach to the center seam of the back. Not all of them offer to make a challenge.

Here's an overview of the most popular techniques:

EMKO CMEA - there is a branch
Müller is
Lin Jacques-there
Zlachevskaya G.M. - not in the general case, but there are exceptions for non-standard figures with a large deflection along the back.


in many good techniques, there is no middle suture abduction.

More options:
Kryuchkova G.A. - there is a lead
Roslyakova T.A. -there is.

The question was asked to me just according to Roslyakova's method. Look carefully at the construction diagram: Yes, there is a midline lead. But along with the shift in the direction of the midline, the waist and bottom lines are also corrected: they make up a right angle with the abducted line of the back. The axes of the darts are drawn parallel to the abducted line of the back.

So, the answer will be correct like this: the thread of the warp (share) when cutting out the back will coincide with the middle line, and not with the grid of the drawing.

The fact is that when applying a particular design technique, it is necessary to adhere to the philosophy and logic of a particular author. All construction nodes are interconnected and you need to be able to see the forest for the trees, that is, to understand the purpose of each constructive line in a specific technique. Roslyakova "shifts" the direction of the back, thereby shortening the side line. I personally did not make constructions using this technique, so I will not undertake to deeply analyze.

To do or not to abduct the back?

And what about this middle seam and a bunch of clever techniques, if they are wrong?

Let's get closer to the practice, to sewing jackets, coats and well-fitting dresses. Stop at the technique that is understandable and close to you. Remember, this is a myth.

I always make the middle seam on the back bridged (except for shirts, of course). I make a standard bend along the waistline of 2 cm (like Muller's), and then I look at the figure:

  • There may be protruding buttocks (I add a positive abduction along the hip line), there may be fat deposits in the cervical vertebrae (I add a positive abduction along the neck line).
  • There may be a strong deflection in the lower back (I make a large bend along the waist line)
  • I leave a sufficient allowance along the midline of the back and, when trying on, I pin the middle back to get a beautiful posture. Obviously, this line will not be straight, as in the drawing. Here, be careful: you cannot take all the excess volumes and simply "capture" in the middle seam. The balance of width and the distribution of excess CO allowances should be harmonious.
  • I outline the line for attaching the zipper in dresses at the last fitting, when the fit of the product is completely satisfied.

Estimation

Shizd. \u003d Cr3 + Pg \u003d 44.0 + 3.5 \u003d 47.5

Shs \u003d Shs + Pshs \u003d 17.3 + 0.7 \u003d 18.0

Shper \u003d Wg2 + Pshg \u003d 19.1

Spr \u003d Shizd - (Shsp + Shper) \u003d 47.5 - (18.0 + 19.1) \u003d 10.4

Shruk \u003d \u003d \u003d 16.0

The width of the sleeve at the bottom is selected according to the model. The typical solution suggests the difference between Shruk. and Shruk.vn, equal to 5.0¸5.5 cm. In this construction, Shruk.in \u003d 11.0.

Generating a drawing grid

The level of the chest line: AH \u003d Bpr s + Pspr \u003d 17.5 + 2.0 \u003d 19.5 (Fig. 4).

Waistline level: AT \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 40.1 + 1.0 \u003d 41.1.

Blade line level: AU \u003d 0.4Dtc \u003d 0.4 ∙ 40.1 ≈ 16.0.

Along the chest line, GG1 \u003d Shsp \u003d 18.0 is consistently deposited; G1G2 \u003d Spr \u003d 10.4; G2G4 \u003d Shper \u003d 19.1.

The lower part of the armhole is constructed using the serif method: Г1П3 \u003d 0.6Spr \u003d 0.6 ∙ 10.4 \u003d 6.2; G2P6 \u003d 0.4Spr \u003d 4.2.

Back construction

The back is built with a middle seam for a better fit. Abduction of the midline of the back along the waist line TT1 \u003d 1.0. Connect the obtained point T1 with point U. It is possible to design a lead in the region of the apex of the middle cut, i.e. AAʹ to the right 0.5cm.

Sprout width АА1 \u003d ⅓Сш + Пш.гор \u003d ⅓ ∙ 17.5 + 0.5 \u003d 6.3. To determine the position of the apex of the sprout or balance point A2 on the back, find the difference between the measurements of Dts1 and Dts: put A1A2 \u003d Dts1 - Dts \u003d 42.9 - 40.1 \u003d 2.8 upwards.

Fig. 4 Construction of the bodice of a dress of an adjacent silhouette

Sprout height А2А21 ≈ 2.2 ÷ 2.3 - for light assortment (dress, blouse). Point A21 is projected onto the line of the middle cut (point A0), then the sprout line is drawn out.

In the design under consideration, a shoulder dart is projected on the back, i.e. the shoulder slice is constructed while maintaining the natural slope of the shoulder line. First, the level of the shoulder point at the intersection of two arcs is determined: from point T - arc R \u003d Bpk + Pdts \u003d 42.8 + 1.0 \u003d 43.8 and from point A2 - arc R \u003d Shp \u003d 13.1. From the obtained point P, draw a small horizontal line to the vertical from G1 - point P2. On the A2P line, the position of the shoulder dart is outlined: A2A22 \u003d ⅓ ÷ ¼ Shp ≈ 3.5. The left side of the dart is raised by 0.5 ÷ 0,7 (A22A22ʹ) to ensure the mating of the shoulder cut when the dart is closed.



The solution of the shoulder tuck depends on the posture of the figure. For a typical figure with normal posture, it is recommended to take 2,0 ÷ 2.5cm. For a stooped figure, a tuck of a larger solution is required - 2.5 ÷ 3.0 cm, and for an kinky posture - 1.5 ÷ 2.0 cm. The length of the dart depends on the size of the mortar and for crimping the end of the dart is equal to 3-4 of its mortars. After constructing the shoulder dart, the shoulder cut is completed: А23П1 \u003d Шп - А2А22ʹ.

To design the line of the armhole of the back, the end of the shoulder cut P1 is lecally connected to the point P3.

The top of the side cut of the bodice of the dress, point G5 in the standard solution is in the middle of the armhole. From point G5 draw a vertical line to the waist line - point T6.

Front building

To construct the neckline from point T4, a balance yardstick is set, i.e. T4A3 \u003d Dtp1 + Pdtp \u003d 43.0 + 1.0 \u003d 44.0. The width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout: A3A4 \u003d AA1 \u003d 6.3. Neck depth A3A5 \u003d A3A4 + 1.0 \u003d 7.3. The constructed line of the neckline and back sprout corresponds to the line of the base of the figure's neck. If the model requires expansion and deepening of the neck, then the necessary changes are made on the basis of the structure.

In cut-off products along the waist line, it is recommended to design a lowering T4T5 \u003d 0,5 ÷ 0.7. The portion of the descent is maintained up to the vertical passing through the most prominent point of the chest. This lowering is necessary to maintain a straight line when connecting the bodice of the product to the bottom of it.

The front shoulder and bust dart are built together. Set aside A4A8 \u003d A2A22ʹ to the left. From A22ʹ draw a vertical line to the waist line (point T7) and to the line of decline (point T71). On this vertical, from the top of the throat A4 (balance point of the front), make a notch R \u003d A4G7 \u003d Br1 + ½Pdtn \u003d 25.2. From point G7, as from the end of the breast dart, an arc with a radius equal to G7A8 is drawn, along the chord, the solution of the breast dart is deposited A8A9 \u003d 2 (Wg2-Wr1) +2 \u003d 2 (19.1 - 16.5) + 2 \u003d 7.2.

To determine the position of the end of the shoulder cut of point P5 up, postpone G2P4 \u003d G1P2 - 1.0. From P6 - arc with radius P6P4. From the auxiliary point A10 (A9A10 \u003d A4A8) on this arc, make a notch with a radius equal to Shp \u003d 13.1. Connect the resulting point P5 with A10. Mark the intersection of the shoulder with the left side of the chest dart 1 , on the left side align the right, i.e. G7 2 \u003d Г7 1 ... To preserve the volume in the area of \u200b\u200bthe mammary glands, it is recommended to shorten the breast dart by 2.0 ÷ 2.5 cm (along the bisector to maintain the equality of the sides).

To design the armhole line of the front, the end of the shoulder cut P5 is lekally connected to the point P6.

Calculation and construction of darts along the waist line

Depending on the silhouette, the increase in Pt is selected from the increment table and the total solution of the darts is calculated.

ΣW \u003d Shizd - (St + Fri) - TT1 \u003d 47.5 - (33.8 +2.7) - 1.0 \u003d 10.0. The distribution of ΣW depends on its size and the number of waist darts. Typical solution:

(0.4 ÷ 0.5) ΣW - lateral tuck (in side cuts), distribute relative to Т6;

0.25ΣW - rear dart on the back, relative to Т8 (on the vertical from the middle of the backrest ГГ1);

0.25 ΣW - front dart, which is set aside relative to T71.

In the event that the value of the total solution of the darts exceeds 11.0 cm, it is recommended to design the front side dart with a solution equal to (0.1 ÷ 0.15) ΣW. The dart is distributed relative to a point in the middle of the T6T7 section. Another option is possible, when a second dart is built on the back.

In the considered design of the bodice of the dress of the adjacent silhouette, the solution of the side dart is 4.4 cm, the rear dart is 2.6 cm, the solution of the front dart is 3.0 cm.

The ends of the darts on the back and front are marked at a distance of 4.0 ÷ 5.0 cm.

The side slices are lengthened by approximately 1.0 cm, i.e. Т61Т61ʹ \u003d Т62Т62ʹ \u003d 1.0 - to ensure the conjugation of the waist cuts of the back and the front after connecting the side cuts.

Calculation and construction of a sleeve tapered from top to bottom with an elbow dart

The sleeve is built into the armhole. The length of the armhole (Dpr) is measured from the drawing of the base of the bodice of the dress. Hpos is chosen depending on the thickness and structure of the fabric. In this design, Dpr \u003d 42.1. The size of the landing along the edge of the sleeve is calculated: Pos \u003d Hpos · Dpr \u003d 0.07 · 42.1 ≈ 2.9. Dock \u003d Dpr + Pos \u003d 42.1 +2.9 \u003d 45.0.

Wok \u003d ⅔Dock - Shruk \u003d ⅔ 45.0 - 16.0 \u003d 14.0. The calculated height of the dowel for control is compared with the graphical wok. Vok.gr. \u003d dvert - 2.5 \u003d 16.5 - 2.5 \u003d 14.0.

For the convenience and accuracy of constructing the armhole into which the sleeve is embedded, it is rebuilt with the designation of the main points (Fig. 5).

To determine the position of the point through which the line of the front roll to the right passes, G2Rn \u003d 0.4 (Shruk - Shpr) \u003d 0.4 (16.0 - 10.4) \u003d 2.2 is laid. Draw a vertical through the point Pp, along which postpone PnO1 \u003d Wok \u003d 14.0 up, and down O1M \u003d Druk \u003d 56.0 and O1L \u003d ½Druk - 3.0 \u003d 31.0. To the left, postpone PpRl \u003d Shruk \u003d 16.0.

Sleeve width along the elbow line LL2 \u003d Shruk - 1,0 ÷ 1.5 \u003d 15.0. Connect point RL to L2.

Fig. 5 Construction of a set-in sleeve with an elbow dart

The construction of the sleeve head is performed by the serif method in the following sequence:

· From the point Рп to the right to postpone the value equal to Г2Рп and relative to the new coordinate axes with a radius of 0.4Spr \u003d 4.2, the armhole of the front is constructed in the mirror reflection to obtain the point Р1;

From point Г0 draw a line perpendicular to РлЛ2, from point Рлʹ to the left set aside a value equal to Г1Рл (measure) and relative to the new coordinate axes with a radius of construction of the armhole of the back of 0.6Rnr \u003d 6.2, construction is performed in mirror reflection to obtain point P2;

Point O11 - middle of OO1; point O23 - midpoint of O2O3; point Оʹ - midpoint О11О23; put down ОʹОʹʹ \u003d ½ О11О23 and draw a semicircle from the point Оʹʹ with this radius;

· Connect the upper part of the sleeve head with the lower parts of the tangents; the intersection points are designated as O6 and O7.

For the final construction of the line of the front roll from point M to the right, put MMʹ \u003d 1.5 and the resulting point Mʹ is connected to point L. Thus, O6LMʹ is the line of the front roll.

The bottom line of the sleeve is built at an angle, for which an additional construction is performed: to the left МʹМʹʹ \u003d 18.0 (const) and downwards ММ3 \u003d 3.0 (const). Connect point М3 with Мʹ, put МʹМ2 \u003d Shruk.vn on the inclined line. \u003d 11.0. Connect point M2 with L2. Line О7Л2М2 - elbow roll line.

The sleeve is built with an elbow dart. The tuck solution is obtained by completing an additional construction: from point L2, draw a line perpendicular to RlʹL2 until it intersects with the vertical G0L0, the intersection point is Lʹ. From point Лʹ draw a line perpendicular to Л2М2. Postpone L2L3 \u003d RlʹR2 and LʹL4 \u003d LʹL3. The end of the elbow dart point L5 should not reach the line of the elbow roll by 2.0 ÷ 2.5 cm. the ulnar cut of the sleeve passes through points P2L3L4M4.

The sleeve is unrolled relative to the front roll line to construct the front cut of the R1L1M1 sleeve, with M1 below the horizontal bottom line by ½ (1 - M0).

The sleeve is sewn into the armhole when combining the notches on the lines of the ridge and armhole. Notches on the line of the dowel are placed taking into account that the main part of the fit is designed along the head of the sleeve, and the lower sections of the dowel are inserted into the armhole with a minimum fit. The position of the notch from point O6 on the bend is projected onto the armhole - point P61, the notch from point O7 on the bend corresponds to the notch P31 on the armhole. The upper notch when stitching in is aligned with the shoulder seam of the product.

(construction of side lines, bottom lines and design of vertical reliefs)

Each silhouette form of clothing has a number of options. The most common silhouette in the manufacture of clothing of various cuts are: straight, semi-adjacent, adjacent and trapezoid silhouette.

Straight silhouette

In products of a straight silhouette, vertical constructive lines are most often used. The visual perception of the silhouette depends on the design of the side sections. An important role is played by the design of the middle line of the back and other structural and decorative lines.

Side lines decoration.

The location and configuration of the side lines depend on the type of product, its silhouette and cut. The side lines of the back and the front (front) are straight, sharply or smoothly bent at the waist, expanding or narrowing from the hip line to the bottom line. The construction of the side lines of the back and the shelf is reduced to determining their position at the level of the armhole depth lines (D), waist (T), hips (B), bottom (H) and design in accordance with the given shape of the product.

To design the side lines, it is necessary to determine the position of the lines at the level of the chest, hips and bottom.

The top of the side lines for products of a straight silhouette is placed in the middle of the armhole (G 1 G 4) - incl. D 2 .

The position of the lateral lines along the hip line is determined graphically or calculated.

For the figures of the 1st and 2nd full-length groups, the lateral lines are drawn parallel to the middle - on the back - the midline, on the shelf - the half-line lines.

In this case, it is necessary to check the width of the product along the line of the hips (B):

B 1 B 2 + B 3 B 4 \u003d Sat + PB

Lateral line shape – straight lines (fig. 1).

For figures of the 2nd, 3rd, sometimes 4th full-bodied groups, the position of the lateral lines along the thighs must be calculated using the formulas:

Back width along the hip line - B 1 B 2 \u003d gG 2 + (0 ÷ 1.0 cm).

The width of the shelf along the hips - B 3 B 4 \u003d (Sat + Pb) - B 1 B 2 .

If point B 4 is excessively displaced to the left, then its position is corrected by displacement of point B 2 to the right.

To design the lateral lines, the resulting points are connected and extended to the bottom line of the product.

The length and shape of the side lines of the back (G 2 H 2) and the shelf (G 2 H 5) should be the same.

It is allowed to design the lateral lines with slightly concave lines in the area from the chest line to the hip line. This removes excess fabric under the armhole and side seams for a more elegant shape in a straight silhouette. The solution of the darts for the design of the side lines is 2.0 ÷ 2.5 cm, which will not change the silhouette shape.

Fig. 1 - Drawing of the design of the BOK of the female shoulder product

straight silhouette

Bottom line decoration.

The bottom line of the shelf (H 31 H 5) is a smooth curve, perpendicular to the midline of the front and side line.

Making vertical reliefs .

The relief lines are drawn in the same way as the lateral ones - straight or slightly smooth.

T 1 T 4 \u003d (0.4 ÷ 0.5) * g (G) G 1 - the center line of the backrest relief.

D 6 T 6 - the center line of the shelf relief.

The lines of the reliefs run parallel to the lines in the middle of the product.

If you often sew, then you know that any product can be modeled using a base pattern. It is the precision of the base design, whether it be a dress, blouse, jacket or any other product, that is the key to a perfect fit and successful tailoring. An accurate base pattern will allow you to sew any dress without numerous fittings, to get real pleasure from the work and the result. It remains only to learn and independently build such a structure - so that it smoothly fits the figure, gives freedom of movement and meets the requirements of the silhouette of the product. Silhouettes of dresses are divided into several types: very close-fitting, close-fitting, semi-close, straight. To make your dress "fit" perfectly, you should correctly add the freedom of fit when building the base. How to make them correctly and how to build an exact pattern, the basis of the dress, we will tell in this article.

  1. Dress length 100cm
  2. Back length to waist 43 cm
  3. Front length to waist 47 cm
  4. Shoulder length 12cm
  5. Semi-girth of the neck 19 cm
  6. Half-girth over chest 44 cm
  7. Half bust 48 cm
  8. Half waist 38 cm
  9. Semi-girth of the hips 51 cm
  10. Hips height 20cm
  11. The distance between the high points of the chest 20 cm

IMPORTANT!All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a chest circumference (OG) of more than 80 cm.

Drawing a dress pattern

The construction of the dress pattern begins by drawing a rectangle ABCD.

Dress width. The rectangle lines AB and DC are equal to the half-girth of the chest by measure plus an increase in freedom of fitting from: AB \u003d DC \u003d 48 cm + an increase in freedom of fitting.

IMPORTANT! When constructing a dress pattern, it is necessary to take into account the increments shown in Table 1. There you will also find detailed instructions on how to use them.

Dress length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 100 centimeters (the length of the dress by the measure).

Pattern-base dress: 1 stage of design

Armhole depth. From point A, the Depth of the Armhole is laid down with an increase and point G is set (GPr \u003d 1/10 of the Circumference of the Chest + 10.5 cm \u003d 9.6 + 10.5 \u003d 20 + increase).
From point G, a line is drawn to the right until the intersection with the line BC and the point of intersection is designated G1.

The waist line of the dress. From point A, 43 cm is laid down (the length of the back to the waist according to the measure) and point T is set. From point T to the right, draw a line until it intersects with the line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter T1.

The line of the hips of the dress. From point T, 20 cm is laid down (the height of the hips by measure) and point L is set, from which a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter L1.

Dress back width (SHS). From point G to the right, lay the width of the back and set the point G2 (SHS \u003d (1/8 Chest Girth + 5.5 cm) for all sizes, plus an increase in freedom of fit from Table 1).

Note.For a very tight-fitting silhouette, the increase in Back Width, Armhole Width and Front Width may not be given, however fabric should be chosen with elastic fibers.

From point G2, a line is drawn up to the intersection with line AB and the point of intersection is designated by the letter P.

Dress armhole width (SPR). From point G2 to the right, lay the width of the armhole G2G3 (G2G3 \u003d (1/8 Chest Circumference - 1.5 cm) for all sizes, plus an increase in the freedom of fitting from Table 1.

Raising the shelf of the dress. From point T1, 47 cm is laid up and point W is set (Length of the front to the waist by measure).
Draw a horizontal line from point Ш to the left. From point G3, lift the perpendicular up. At the intersection of the lines, point P1 was obtained, and the point of intersection with the line AB is denoted by the letter P2.

Side line of the dress. G2G3 is divided in half. Point G4. From the point G4, the line is lowered down to the intersection with the DC line; its intersection with the TT1 line is denoted by the letter T2, and the intersection with the LL1 line is denoted by the letter L2.

Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armholes. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into four equal parts.

Calculation of tackle darts. The surplus of fabric for darts at the waist is calculated using the formula: Bust half minus waist half \u003d 48-38 \u003d 10 cm.

Of these, 1/3 of them are removed into the side darts - 1.5 cm each in the back and in front of the dress, the remaining 7 cm are distributed in the back and in front - 4 cm are removed into the dart along the back of the dress, 3 cm - in the front of the dress. For additional fitting (if necessary), make a second dart along the front and another along the central seam of the back.

Pattern-base dress: 2 design stage

Back construction

Neckline of the dress. From point A to the right, lay 6.5 centimeters (1/3 the half-girth of the neck by measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19/3 + 0.5 \u003d 6.8.
From the point 6.8, 2 centimeters are laid up. Points A and 2 are connected by a concave line.

Dress shoulder slant. From point P, 1.5 centimeters are laid down.

Shoulder line. From point 2 (neckline) through point 1.5 (shoulder tilt), draw a shoulder line 12 centimeters long (shoulder length by measure plus 0-1 centimeter pa landing for all sizes).

Important! The shoulder of the back rests slightly when sewing the product.

Dress armhole line.From point G2, dividing the angle in half, lay 2 cm. The armhole line is drawn through points 12, the midpoint of the division line PG2, points 2 and G4.

Dart on the waist line of the dress. The distance T-1.5 is divided in half, from the point of division to the left and to the right, 2 cm are laid and then vertical lines are drawn up and down as shown in the drawing. From the line of the armhole lay down 3-4 cm, from the line of the hips up 2 cm.Points 2 (tuck depth) are connected to points with points 3-4 and 2.

Pattern-base dress: 3 design stage

Building the front of the dress

Neckline of the dress. From point W to the left, lay 6.8 cm and set point W1 (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck by measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 6.8.
From point W, 7.8 cm is laid down (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck by measure plus 1.5 cm for all sizes): 19: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 7.8 cm.
Points Ш1 and 7.8 are connected with a dashed line, divided in half and 6.8 centimeters are laid from point Ш through the dividing point of the dotted line. Points Ш1, 6.8 and 7.8 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder length from dress neckline to bust dart. From point Ш1, 4 centimeters are laid to the left and 1 centimeter is laid down from this point. Points Ш1 and 1 are connected. From point Г1 to the left, lay 1/2 the distance between the high points of the chest Г1Г5 \u003d 20/2 \u003d 10 cm Points 1 (shoulder) and Г5 are connected.

Bust dart of the dress. The right side of the chest dart 1-G5 is divided in half and 4 cm is laid from the dividing point to the left (the half-girth of the chest by the measure minus the half-girth above the chest by the measure: 48 - 44 \u003d 4.
The left dart line is drawn from point G5 through point 4 with a length equal to 1-G5 (right side of the dart), point P3 is obtained.

Shoulder length from bust dress to armhole. Point P3 is connected to the upper dividing point of the line PG2 (back). Then from point P3 along the dotted line to the left, lay 7.5 cm (shoulder length minus 4.5 cm): 12-4.5 \u003d 7.5 cm.
Point 7.5 and the lower division point of the line P2G3 are connected with a dotted line. From the point 7.5 along the dotted line, 1.5 cm is laid down (shoulder tilt). Points 1.5 and P3 are connected.

Dress armhole line. The dotted line from point 1.5 to the lower dividing point of the P2G3 line is halved and 1 centimeter is set aside from the dividing point to the right. From point G3, dividing the angle in half, lay 2 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through points 1.5, 1, the lower dividing point of the line P2G3, point 2 and, touching the armhole descent line, to point G4.

Dart at the waist line (front). From point G5 (the top of the chest dart), a perpendicular is drawn down to the line of the hips. From the point G5, 5-6 centimeters are laid down. Set aside 1.5 cm along the waist line to the left and right. Points 5-6 are connected to points 1.5 and 1.5 and carried out to the hip line.

Dart on the waist line of the dress (side). From the point G3 to the right, lay down 3 cm and lower the dotted line down to the intersection with the line of the thighs. From the point of intersection of the hip line, 1.5 centimeters are laid up, and from point 3 downward 7-8 cm.Then, from the point of intersection with the waist line, 1 cm is laid to the right and left and connected to points 7-8 and 1.5.

What is important to consider when building a dress pattern

Important! If the half-girth of the hips by your measurement turns out to be larger than the one according to the drawing, then 1/2 of the difference between the half-girth of the hips by the measure and the half-girth of the chest is added to the front of the dress and 1/2 to the back of the dress.

The line of the hips of the back and front. The lack of volume in the thighs is calculated by the formula: Half hip circumference by measure minus Half chest circumference by measure \u003d 51-48 \u003d 3 cm. Half of the obtained value is added to the back and half to the front (1.5 cm each).

Side seam of the back of the dress. From point T2 to the left, lay 1.5 cm, from point L2 to the right, lay 1.5 cm.The line of the side seam is drawn from point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further to the intersection with the DC line.

Side seam of the front of the dress. From point T2 to the right, lay 1.5 cm, from point L2 to the left, lay 1.5 cm.The line of the side seam is drawn from point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further until it intersects with the DC line.

For a dress with a sleeve, you need to build and pattern the sleeve:

Especially for beginners!

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