The use of gels and creams with liposomes in cosmetology. Liposomes: the best guides or just another myth. Liposomes in cosmetics
Liposomes in cosmetics
What are liposomes and how are they useful?
Liposomes are ball-shaped structures covered with a membrane and filled with active nutrients. Since liposomes are very similar in structure and content to human cells, it is convenient to use them to deliver nutrients to the deep layers of the epidermis, besides, the concentration of active substances in them is quite high, doctors found out. This is the main advantage of liposomal cosmetics: such products penetrate deeper than conventional creams and ointments, thereby causing natural skin rejuvenation, as well as creating a protective layer.
The use of liposomes provides a wide range of possibilities when used in anti-aging, anti-allergic, moisturizing creams, serums and active substances.
The uniqueness of liposomes is that they will not be harmful to problem or sensitive skin
The use of liposomes today opens up great prospects, not only in medicine and cosmetology, but also in agriculture, animal husbandry (with the help of liposomes, for example, it will be possible to introduce genetic information directly into cells).
Difficulties of working with liposomes
Liposome sterilization filters allow lipids to pass through but microorganisms out. This is a very complex and time consuming process.
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The procedure is very expensive.
It is also important that the storage periods are short. So far, one method has been developed - the drying of pre-frozen lipids. They are dehydrated, and in order to reuse them, you just need to restore the lost volume of water.
So, liposomes are currently the most effective way to deliver vitamins, minerals and hormones to the deep layers of the skin. And they can rightfully be considered smart cosmetics of the new generation, however, this cosmetics cannot yet work in full force.
Liposomes are a kind of container vesicles, the cavity of which is filled with biologically active and other necessary components.
Each cell is surrounded by a membrane - a membrane impermeable to most substances. It consists of lipids, into which proteins are embedded, which form channels for the transfer of useful substances through the membrane into the cell.
Lipid membranes, as A. Kanglun, a doctor of chemical sciences at MITHT, figuratively said, are like girls whose legs grow straight from the ears; the legs are two long hydrocarbon chains (often called tails) with a small head above them.
The head dissolves easily in water, unlike the feet, which prefer oils and organic solvents. Due to their structure, lipids, connecting "tail to tail", form a bimolecular lipid vesicle. The filling of the liposome with active substances occurs according to the following principle: the aqueous part is placed in the cavity of the vesicle, and the oil extracts are embedded in the shell.
Liposome membranes protect the encapsulated substance from destruction in the internal environment of the body. Gradually releasing the substance included in them, they prolong its therapeutic effect for a considerable time.
Raw materials for liposomes
Bilayer vesicles are constructed from phospholipids of plant origin: hydrofuses, phospholipids (water and dried residues) of sunflower seeds.
Sunflower phytoglycolipids contain essential fatty acids such as linoleic and linolenic acids, which are essential for creating a protective skin barrier.
Liposomes in cosmetics
According to the anatomical structure, human skin is a three-component structure consisting of the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue. Withering of the skin is caused by a violation of water-salt metabolism, the processes of oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids and dehydration (moisture loss). The molecules of many components that make up the cosmetic product are much larger than the gaps between the cells of the epidermis. Therefore, their penetration into the "living" layers of the skin is very difficult, and into the cell is practically impossible. Liposomal preparations are devoid of this disadvantage. They have an affinity for the skin, as they are composed of the same lipids as the cell membrane. Merging with the cell membrane, the lipid vesicle delivers life-giving moisture and biologically active substances inside it.
Intracellular penetration of the liposomes constructed by us was confirmed by morphological studies carried out in the scientific laboratory of NPO Alpika LLC.
The moisturizing effect of liposomal creams is explained not only by the ability of liposomes to deliver the aqueous phase into the cell, but also by the ability of phospholipids to form a moisture-retaining "film" on the skin surface. A long-term moisturizing effect is achieved. It is also important that phospholipids do not cause allergies and reduce skin irritation.
You can learn more detailed information about liposomes, their properties and fields of application from the monographs of our scientists L.M. Kuzyakova, V.I. Efremenko "Medicinal overcoming of cellular and anatomical barriers using liposomes." Stavropol, 2000 and doctoral dissertation by L.M. Kuzyakova "Methodological approaches and development of technology for liposomal medicinal and therapeutic-prophylactic drugs." Pyatigorsk, 2000
Manufacturers claim that liposome-free creams act only on the surface of the skin and are unable to overcome the protective barrier in order to penetrate deeper. The same creams that contain liposomes penetrate into the very depths, even into the subcutaneous tissue.
The thing is that a liposome is an artificially created hollow capsule filled with active ingredients that need to be delivered to tissues and organs. Thus, the liposome acts as a kind of transfer. It contains non-toxic natural phospholipids (sunflower oil, egg yolk, soy), similar to the phospholipids of cell membranes. Therefore, cells willingly accept liposomes: either they absorb them together with their contents (that is, with active substances), or they allow the liposomal membrane to be built into their own, cellular, and the active substances enter the cell.
At the same time, the liposome has a strong and flexible structure - it can change shape and size, recover and resist destructive factors.
Liposomes are used in medicine: they carry hormonal, enzyme, anticancer and antimicrobial drugs. The liposome prevents liver enzymes from destroying them and safely delivers them to the cells of the body.
In cosmetology, liposomes deliver moisturizing, anti-aging and healing components of creams and lotions into cells. They are especially useful for problematic and sensitive skin: cosmetics with liposomes in the composition allow the skin to breathe. After all, liposomal creams are more like a light gel (since the capsule shell would simply dissolve in a greasy consistency).
In fairness, it should be noted that some scientists question the effectiveness of liposomes: it has been experimentally revealed that they are destroyed even before they get to the deep layers of tissues. A very small amount of liposomes makes their way through the protective layer of the skin, consisting of the stratum corneum of cells - the rest merge with the fatty layer of the epidermis. This, of course, strengthens and moisturizes the skin, but ordinary high-quality creams can do it too.
However, liposomes have another useful property: they allow rapidly disintegrating substances to be stored from 1 month to a year. So, coenzyme Q10, which fights wrinkles, and anti-aging vitamin E inside liposomes do not disintegrate from the action of air and can safely get to the skin. How deep is difficult to say, but at least its upper layer will receive nutrition and hydration (after all, there is also a water phase in the liposomes).
Based on this, when choosing cosmetics in a store, buy only those that contain liposomes along with coenzyme Q1 and vitamin E, otherwise the beneficial substances will disintegrate as soon as you open the package.
We strive to preserve youth, or at least look younger than their years, which every woman tries to keep silent about, and it happens that she is disingenuous, reducing her age. Everyone has long known that not only a healthy lifestyle, but also the right cosmetics will help to achieve the best results for preserving youth and beauty. Cosmetologists try their best to help us with this, and sometimes they work wonders. One such miracle is liposome cream.
And so, liposome cream.
In the 60s of the last century, the American scientist Bang Ham drew attention to the behavior of one of the components of the living cell of the phospholipid lecithin in water. It turns out that the molecules of this component, interacting with each other, could form closed hollow microspheres (liposomes), very similar in their properties and structure to the cell membrane of any organism.
Thus, it turned out that the liposome can be an ideal "container" for the transfer of biologically active substances: vitamins, herbal extracts, amino acids, etc., necessary for the body. In other words, the empty space inside the liposome can be filled with any substance.
Liposomes are created artificially from phospholipids, then "loaded" with biologically active substances and introduced into the base of the cream. The liposomes themselves differ from each other in size: from 0.03 microns to 100 microns and in properties. Liposomes actively affect the body's cell, and this activity depends on their properties. And most importantly, liposomes transfer the active substances with which they are saturated to the cell.
Christian Dior and L'Oreal began developing a line of liposomal products in the mid-1980s.
In Russia, the first liposomal creams - gels with vitamins A and E were released in 1992 by the Nizar company.
Creams with liposomes really have miraculous power, since, penetrating deep into the skin, down to the subcutaneous tissue, liposomes are destroyed and begin to interact with skin proteins and lipids of cell membranes. Yes, they are really capable of delivering moisturizers or biologically active substances to the skin in this way. They bind to the keratin of the skin, and thus create a protective layer on the skin's surface, which reduces the loss of moisture. In addition to all that has been said, the liposome cream reduces the irritating effect of the preservatives included in the cream.
You will see the result of the action of such creams in two weeks. And it is true. In conventional traditional creams, biologically active substances are in a dissolved state, so their effect on the skin is much weaker and more superficial.
You will look younger right before our eyes. But ... it's not that simple.
These creams can only be used by women who are 40+. What does it mean? If a girl at the age of 20 begins to use such a cream, and to some extent it can be compared with hormonal drugs, then what creams should she use when she is 30+? The skin gets used to receiving such supplements from outside. But at the age of 20, the body itself has its own natural reserves and copes with many problems, just not to interfere with bad habits such as smoking and excessive alcohol, lack of sleep and eating only chips.
You need to take care of your skin regularly, starting with cleansing with lotions, emollient creams, then nourishing ones. If all this is passed, and the results are not pleasing to you, then move on to stronger means, that is, to creams with liposomes. Women who are 40+ can use these creams if the skin has already begun to fade. Just read the annotation carefully, which biologically active substances are included in liposomes, perhaps in your case you need some specific ones, and not those that are included in this composition.
And so, in order to use a cream with liposomes, you must have an age behind your shoulders and know exactly what your skin needs. But there are other limitations as well. What are they? - You are all right with your health, are there any skin diseases? If hair grows on the chin or so-called "mustache", then these creams should not be used or very carefully, as they can stimulate the growth of unwanted facial hair.
If there are no restrictions for you, then use it, but within two weeks, then a break of two or three months, and start a new cycle again.
Thanks to new technologies in the field of cosmetology, any chemical substances can be placed in the liposome: moisturizing complexes, vitamins, antiseptics or phytohormones.
1. Anti-aging liposomal creams. The enzyme that prevents cell aging is coenzyme Q10, which inhibits the process of cell aging and also removes fine wrinkles. However, if “Q10” is written on the tube, but “liposomes” are not indicated, then you should not expect a quick and miraculous effect. There are creams that contain the best antioxidant - vitamin E, which has a rejuvenating effect. But the fact is that under the influence of oxygen, it quickly oxidizes, and the expected result is nullified. This will not happen in creams with liposomes - they will deliver vitamin E to the destination safe and sound.
2. Creams with liposomes for sensitive and dehydrated skin. In this case, liposomes deliver protein molecules to the deep layers of the skin, which cannot independently penetrate deep into the skin, as well as vitamin C or oils.
3. Moisturizers with liposomes are the most effective. Regular moisturizers and serums work only on the surface layers of the skin. Liposomal moisturizers provide long-term (up to 72 hours) skin hydration.
Choice of liposome cream and shelf life
1. The liposome cream should have a light, semi-liquid consistency.
2. Choose a cream in a small container, as liposomes are quickly destroyed, and you will have to use, as already mentioned, two weeks with a break of two to three months.
3. The cream should be in a tube or in a glass bottle with a dispenser. This packaging of the product will prevent contact with air and oxidation of the cream.
4. Store the cream in the refrigerator at a temperature of + 5 ° C - + 15 ° C.
5. Shelf life - no more than 12 months. Further, the liposomal structure is destroyed. All the contents end up in the cosmetic, and a new chemical compound is formed, which will not give the desired results. Therefore, always pay attention to the date of production of the cosmetic product.
Today, cosmetic products with liposomes are considered one of the most promising areas in the beauty industry.
