A remedy called "exfoliant" - what is it? Exfoliants - a modern remedy with proven effectiveness

There are several types of cosmetic products for deep cleansing (exfoliation of the upper layer) of the skin. The process of exfoliating the top layer of the skin is called . Peeling can be chemical or mechanical. There are also laser and ultrasonic ones, but they are used in cosmetology.

We will consider cosmetic products such as: gommage, scrub and exfoliant(synonyms in English: exfoliating, scrub, face polish), let's figure out what is the difference between them and what means for deep cleansing of the skin you need.

Gommage

What is gommage? The name comes from the French word "gomme" - "eraser". Gommage is a special product for removing the top layer of the skin, it gently dissolves and removes dead particles. Often gommage contains a small percentage in its composition Now the term is more popular peeling roll, or just a roll.

What type of skin is gommage suitable for? Gommage is ideal for those with sensitive, aging or skin with inflamed acne.

How to use gommage? Use gommage instead of a scrub 1-2 times a week. Gommage is applied to the face and usually after 10-15 minutes, when it dries up, roll it in a circular motion together with the upper layer of the epidermis, holding the skin with the other hand so as not to stretch it. If there are pustules on the face, it is better to just wash off the cream with water. Do not forget that gommage is still a chemical peeling. Be sure to read the instructions! There are rolls that cannot be kept on the skin longer than two minutes. It should not be done on vacation when you spend many hours a day under the sun.

Scrub

What is a scrub? Scrub- a cosmetic product consisting of basics and small particles that mechanically exfoliate the top layer of the skin.

The basis of the scrub is a cream, gel or cosmetic clay, sea sand or salt, crushed shells of nuts or apricot kernels and other natural particles are added as exfoliating particles. The main function of the scrub- This is skin cleansing, small particles remove old, dead cells and impurities from the skin surface.

What type of skin is the scrub suitable for? The scrub is suitable for those with young, problem-free skin. Less scrubs: the particles, by definition, are not perfectly smooth, therefore they can cause micro-trauma to the skin and are not recommended for use with problematic, inflamed skin. If your skin is sensitive, then use a scrub that contains abrasive particles. not natural origin, for example, smooth plastic balls, they are more suitable for problem and irritated skin, because do not injure the skin of the face.

How to use the scrub? Apply the scrub to moisturized skin, massage and rinse with water. Use the scrub no more than 2 times a week.

Exfoliant

What is an exfoliant? Exfoliant- is a cosmetic or agent in the composition of the product, causing a rapid outer layer of the epidermis. Most often, the exfoliant contains fruit acids, which effectively dissolve the top layer of the skin while stimulating the production of new skin cells.

What type of skin is the exfoliant suitable for? Suitable for all skin types except hyper irritable skin.

How to use an exfoliant? The exfoliant can be either in the mask or in the cream, carefully follow the instructions. You can use the exfoliant in the form of a mask no more than 2 times a week (if it contains fruit acids). And cream and liquid soap with fruit acids in the composition can be used daily.

Since the exfoliant is most often a chemical peel, be careful when applying it, and after using it, be sure to use products with SPF!

The best scrubs and exfoliants

• Exfoliating Scrub by CLINIQUE. Scrub with fine scrubbing particles for oily skin.
• Flawless Skin Face Polish by LAURA MERCIER. Gommage with microspheres for deep cleansing of the skin.
• Sugar Face Polish by FRESH. Sugar scrub mask for face and body.
• Modern Friction ™ Nature's Gentle Dermabrasion from ORIGINS. Exfoliator with fruit acids and scrubbing particles.
• Gentle Buffing Cream by CAUDALIE. Hommage cream with fruit acids.
• Pomegranate Deep Cleansing Scrub by KORRES.

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The field of development and production of skin care products never ceases to amaze with new products. Increasingly, they began to talk about exfoliants and their beneficial effects on the skin. What are such funds and what are their benefits?

An exfoliant is a product that helps exfoliate the cells of the upper layer of the skin.

It is important! Due to its deep exfoliating action, the exfoliant makes the skin more vulnerable to UV rays. Therefore, those who use such a remedy need to additionally protect their skin with sunscreens.

The benefit of this cosmetic product is that it removes the dead cells of the upper layer of the skin. Thanks to this action, the skin acquires a natural and radiant appearance, becomes smooth and velvety, gets rid of blackheads.

The main active ingredients of exfoliants are special compounds - alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA).

ANA, in turn, are subdivided into the following types:

• Glycolic acid;
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As for BHA, it is represented by one acid - salicylic.

The advantage of BHA is that it is a fat-soluble acid. That is why acid elements penetrate deep into the skin layers even through sebum. This allows you to exfoliate the contents clogged in the pores. This is why beta-hydroxy acid exfoliants work well for acne-prone skin with blackheads.

Cleansers with alpha hydroxy acids should be chosen by owners of dry, discolored skin.

The unique property of both acids is the ability to remove only dead and damaged cells without affecting healthy ones.

The result from the use of exfoliants can be seen within a few days.

You need to consider! The first time this product is applied, skin reactions such as:

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Dermatologists emphasize: the course of application of the exfoliant should be carried out during the cold season.

Remember to use a sunscreen on your face before going out to prevent overexposure to direct UV rays.

Apply a thin layer of exfoliant to the face skin, in the evening, for 20 minutes. After that, the surplus of the product is carefully removed and washed.

Note! Exfoliants are not used for skin pathologies such as dermatitis, herpes, acute eczema.

Visible, lasting results from the use of exfoliants are observed after two months of use.

Photo of the result after 1.5 months of using the Kora exfoliant cream

Exfoliant products worthy of choice - TOP 3

This quick overview will help you make the choice when searching for the perfect exfoliant.

• Exfoliant cream mask with fruit acids Kora. It contains ANA acids, grape seed oil, panthenol. It can be used at any age. It has a gentle effect on the skin of the face. Suitable as a care product for combination to oily skin. After using the cream, the skin becomes smoother and more elastic. It is used in courses of 15-20 procedures. Dry skin is cleaned once a week, combination and oily skin - twice;
• My Rose of Bulgaria. The product gently cleanses and refreshes the skin while moisturizing it. Has anti-inflammatory effect. Copes with the main task - deeply cleanses the pores and removes dead cells. Suitable for combination to oily skin, as it helps to tighten pores and reduce the amount of sebum;
• Daily Exfoliating Cleanser from Academie. It is a fruit peeling. The product contains moisturizing ingredients, glycolic acid. Suitable for all skin types. The use of this gel helps to improve the skin relief, even out the complexion, and cleanse the skin of dead cells. Can be used on damaged skin.

Exfoliants are effective skin care products. When using them, it is important not to overdo it: excessive exposure to their components can harm, not benefit. It is also important to remember about the presence of contraindications and not to neglect them.

The abundance of cleansers in cosmetic lines can puzzle even an experienced dermatologist. There is a certain fashion for the names and composition of the contents of the tubes. Difficulties in translation only complicate the choice, because the inscription does not always have a Russian-language description. Are there any significant differences between exfoliants and other products?

Strictly speaking, exfoliation is the process of cleansing the surface dying cell layer of the skin by exfoliation. On the jars they wrote peeling, the absence of a Russian analogue to this word allowed all the "exfoliating" products to be called peeling. Such a composition contains particles that allow you to mechanically remove the "skin" from unnecessary cells.

• Scrubs did it with seeds and ground shell-grains, sugar, which did not suit the delicate skin of the face at all.
• Exfoliants do not leave mechanical traces, do not violate the integrity of the integument and allow you to dissolve or break down keratinized cells.

This is a kind of home option, so it has its own advantages, features and disadvantages.

The active substance in the exfoliant eats away the upper layers of the skin, dissolves them, penetrates through the dead stratum corneum closer to the basal structure of the skin, which forms new cells.

This effect was originally required for the treatment of dermatological problems in order to get to living cells through layers of flaky old skin. Cosmetology quickly adopted this fact and figured out how to use it.

The capabilities of exfoliants as chemical agents are useful in the right hands. Amateurs and novices alike are capable of wreaking havoc with heavy artillery.

AHA and BHA - alpha and beta hydroxy acids are used as active substances.

Under these names are the usual and often used in cosmetics drugs.

• - these are water-soluble acids, the most popular are lactic and glycolic, citric, malic and tartaric acids are also used in cosmetology.
• BHA is salicylic acid, it does not dissolve in water, but it easily passes through the sebum in the pores and the lipid barrier.

When cleansing the skin, specific acids or a mixture of them can be used. Naturally, different acids help to solve problems for different skin types. Concentrations of reagents play a significant role in this process. Of course, the exfoliant can be included in a tube labeled "peeling" and used for chemical and combined face cleansing.

Choose by skin type

It is not difficult to choose "your" acid, it is more difficult to find a competent and honest specialist to whom you can safely entrust your face.

It will help to care for problem, oily skin. Black dots won't stop her. Thick and uneven skin reacts worse to VNA, dry and irritated at an incorrect or high concentration during chemical peeling risks serious burns. However, BHA travels through the multi-layered scales of the skin and is a vehicle for other drugs.

It is often included not only in antibacterial complexes, but also in antidandruff, antipsoriasis formulations.

AHAs are suitable for cleansing normal to dry skin, sensitive, dry, prone to pigmentation. At the same time, they affect the degree of skin hydration, its elasticity, the ability to regenerate and increase sun protection properties.

There is also such a variant of ANA as PHA (a complex of milk and), it is also called a polyhydroxy acid). It has a softer effect on the skin, does not cause an allergic reaction. However, the "renewal" of the skin, the degree of penetration due to the larger structure will be somewhat lower.

Shades of cleansing

In addition to the concentrations and peeling systems recommended by manufacturers, there are copyright methods of cosmetologists. These variations, literally "at random" and "by eye", enhance or weaken the composition so that the peel is suitable for a specific skin type.

Cosmetic concerns also love experiments, and since they are afraid of a "negative" reaction, they use bases close to exfoliants.

The skin's reaction will be softer, and the result is far from expected.

Facial cleansers... Therefore, it is important to understand when investments will not be effective. For example, washing with AHA and BHA is useless.

• First, there is a risk of eye irritation in liquid form.
• Secondly, the time of contact with the skin itself and the concentration of the substance will be so small that they simply cannot act.

Absorbent products. Therefore, one can only "believe" in gels and creams, and in the case of salicylic acid, also in lotions with this component. With a pronounced problem of acne, dermatologists may advise the use of 2% salicylic lotions; in their absence, oily skin can easily "manage" with a cream or gel with 1% salicylic acid.

The cream has enough time to "work" and penetrate as deeply as possible and will not harm the skin.

Salicylic acid reduces acne in the form of a lotion: at a higher concentration, it manages to pass the lipid barrier and quenches inflammation inside the pore and reduces bacterial activity.

Peeling with AHA or BHA will be more effective than just a scrubbing compound. The peculiarity of the application is that the acid works only with the area of ​​keratinized or dead cells, which, with age, stop self-cleaning as quickly and begin to serve as a crust for new skin.

• Therefore, in the "running" form, the difference between "before" and "after" will be obvious.
• With good care, the contrast will not be as bright, but the effect will last longer. Sometimes it takes several days for a correct assessment.

We study the composition

Concentration is what you need to focus on with acids:

• for alpha acids, the working range is 5-10% at skin pH 3-4,
• for beta acid - 1-2% at skin pH 3.

At high pH levels, acids become inoperative and have a weaker effect.

A higher concentration of acids can give a temporarily high skin tone, which quickly subsides and is replaced by a “faded” look. Such "elasticity" sometimes turns out to be an allergic edema, or it can turn into a burn, the treatment of which will require a lot of effort.

When purchasing finished products in packaging, you are unlikely to find a mark indicating the actual concentration. Therefore, be guided by the place in the list of ingredients.

• AHA is to be found in the first 3-5 components;
• salicylic acid may be somewhere in the middle of the list - given its working concentration, this will be enough;
• BHA is derived from aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) and has similar anti-inflammatory properties;
• but the willow bark, from which it is extracted, has low anti-inflammatory properties, so it is naive to judge its effectiveness or believe that it will give the effect of salicylic acid.

As for the ANA, they work only in their structural combinations. No other "similar", "primary sources", "derivatives" have their useful properties, so you need to look for these names on the label:

• Glycolic acid - glycolic acid.
• Lactic acid - lactic acid.
• Gluconoalactone - PHA.
• Citric acid - citric acid.
• Malic acid - malic acid.
• Tartaric acid - tartaric acid.

Application in practice

Hydroxy acids can be applied to facial skin as part of creams 1-2 times a day. It is allowed to apply ANA to the skin around the eyes, avoiding the eyelids themselves, so that the product does not get into the eyes. It is necessary to use a cream or gel with hydroxy acid after the tonic, lotion or micellar water has dried. There may be slight tingling and redness, which should go away quickly.

Both types of acids help the skin develop a protective filter mechanism from the sun's rays. According to some studies, it can help prevent and treat skin cancer. At the same time, exposing an unprepared young skin layer, they do not give him such immunity. That is, it does not completely solve the problem.

Therefore, the use of exfoliants must be combined with substances that have an ultraviolet filter, regardless of the season and solar activity.

Retinol and Hydroxy Acids

Retinoids are often confused with hydroxy acids and are believed to exfoliate the skin as well. Flaking is an undesirable effect of using retinol and its derivatives. The idea behind using retinol is anti-aging, and dryness and exfoliation indicate improper use.

Exfoliants form the basis of proper anti-aging care. The meaning of such a system is to prolong the health and youthfulness of the skin in natural ways, without stress and alternative options (laser or plastic methods).

Of course, there are many more secrets to glowing skin, but your own reflection will speak louder than words. Long-term adherence to a specific method will allow you to look younger than your peers and increase self-esteem with the results. The main thing is to be attentive to yourself and your skin.

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Every girl at home wants to make herself a beauty. That is why there are a huge number of different skin, hair and nail care products at home. Modern cosmetology, both professional and home, is simply impossible without means that are aimed at exfoliating the skin of the face and body. For such purposes, a line of exfoliants for girls has been created. Further, we will understand this topic in stages. So what is meant by the word "exfoliant"?

Exfoliants (in English to exfoliate, which literally means exfoliation) are products designed to quickly exfoliate dead skin areas. There are two types of exfoliants:

• Mechanical. Often they are available in the form of exfoliant creams, or gels, the base of which consists of particles of different sizes and structures.
• Chemical.

To begin with, it is strictly forbidden to use chemical and mechanical exfoliants for owners of sensitive skin, since it is very easy to injure it even with the smallest particles. In such cases, more liquid products (tonics, lotions or gommages) will be the way out. Both exfoliants will only work for normal, combination, or oily skin.

Mechanical exfoliants for the face

Facial exfoliants are usually made of small particles and are made from mild substances that are designed not to injure the sensitive skin of the face. There are a huge number of such tools. These include: exfoliant creams, exfoliant masks, gels, scrubs, peels, etc.

For most of the products, the composition includes wax particles (orange or carnauba), paraffin, oat flour, coconut, soda, algae and their powders (often kelp). During exfoliation, the particles gently exfoliate the surface of the face, removing dead skin, thus activating blood circulation and cell respiration, stimulating the growth of new ones, the skin takes on a rested appearance and an even tone.

Exfoliant creams are the most widely used for such purposes. If you do this procedure regularly, the skin will begin to tighten, the lifting effect will be on the face and on the face.

Mechanical body exfoliants

We all know that body skin also needs extra care to maintain its youthfulness. Yes, if you are slim, then you are guaranteed attention, but it is the toned and healthy skin that testifies to your beauty and youth.

Exfoliant for the body is very helpful in solving such problems. The scheme of action of these funds is as follows: by stimulating new cells, the skin tone is leveled, it brightens, tones up, and tuberosity decreases. It should be added that exfoliant scrubs are often used for anti-cellulite massage at home. Afterwards, it is recommended to apply a soothing and moisturizing body oil (lavender, peppermint and peony oils, etc.).

For the development of exfoliants for the body, larger particles and a firm consistency are used. Basically, these products are made in the form of scrubs and body masks. Often the composition includes:

• Shells of nuts;
• Seed powder (apricot, peach, grapes, etc.);
• Coffee;
• Pumice;
• Salt, sugar, etc.

Exfoliants of such brands as Yves Rocher, Faberlik Air stream, etc. are very popular among girls. with different kinds of compositions. Reviews not only recommend, but also demonstrate the results from their use. So, the skin becomes softer and more delicate, acquires elasticity and the relief is leveled.

Mechanical exfoliants with acids

Very often Cora cream mask is used as exfoliating agents. It is a very popular fruit acid exfoliant. You can read the instructions for use on the packaging, in addition, there are a lot of positive reviews about the product on the Internet.

Exfoliant bark, as stated by the manufacturer, performs the following functions:

• Exfoliation;
• Acceleration of blood circulation;
• Smoothing wrinkles;
• Restoration of elasticity and softness;
• Toning.

The duration of the procedure is selected individually and depends on the type and sensitivity of your particular skin.

In principle, acid exfoliants (especially fruit acids) are intended to rejuvenate the entire body. That is why it is a very popular procedure in beauty salons. The active ingredients of such products are aimed at dissolving the layer that binds old and new skin cells. Such drugs penetrate into the deepest layers of the epidermis, stimulating the production of collagen and elastane. The result is a rejuvenated, rested, toned skin.

By the way, it is the cold evening time of the day that is considered the most optimal time for carrying out such manipulations, since the newly created cells react both to the components of the care products and to the sun's rays.

Contraindications for the use of exfoliant scrubs

If you have any of the following problems, then stop peeling for a while:

• Allergy to the constituents of the product;
• Capillaries are located close to the dermal layer;
• Violation of the skin and the presence of microtrauma on the skin;
• Acne, an inflammation that requires medical treatment.

Chemical exfoliation

Any chemical peeling or gommage acts on the dermal layer of the skin with a concentrated solution of acids (ANA acids, salicylic, retinoic, lactic, etc.) or a solution of enzymes.

Although referred to as a chemical exfoliant, it would be more correct to single out a separate category for it. Since such products should be applied to previously cleansed and steamed skin of the face, then leave them for a couple of minutes (the duration is indicated in the instructions for use). When the product dries up and forms a so-called "crust", it must be rolled with wet hands.

As a rule, the composition of gommage contains AHA acid of low concentration, which removes the upper dermal surface of the skin, during the rolling of which a large number of pellets are formed, protruding as massaging particles. By the way, they function in the same way as the solid particles of scrubs. At the same time, body gommages also have similarities with them, since by renewing the skin surface, they make it more elastic and elastic, which helps the girl lose weight and effectively fights the hated cellulite crust.

At the moment, cosmetic companies provide a huge number of different kinds of gommages to choose from. For yourself, you can choose a product that suits you both in composition and in accordance with your type of face and body skin. We advise you to consult a beautician about a particular product before buying.

Contraindications for the use of chemical exfoliants

For the following symptoms and diseases, give up chemical exfoliation:

• The presence of molluscum contagiosum;
• Skin papillomas and warts;
• Manifestation of psoriasis and eczema;
• Active herpes;
• Having a fresh sunburn or sunburn;
• The presence of microtrauma or impaired skin integrity;
• Allergy to a component of the product.

Frequency and rules of exfoliation?

• For girls with mixed or oily skin type, exfoliants can be used no more than three times a week.
• It is necessary to independently use aggressive chemical exfoliants in the form of peeling or gommage agents step by step, as indicated in the instructions for the selected product.
• For normal skin types, it is recommended to use scrubs up to twice a week.
• For dry and sensitive skin, these procedures should be performed quite rarely, once every two to three weeks. Aggressive means, in such cases, are prohibited.

Video: Paste exfoliant Faberlic Air Stream line Oxygen balance - review and reviews

BIOSEA Perfection Face Exfoliating Cream. When I first heard the name, for a long time I could not understand what it is, and what it is "eaten" with. It turned out that this is the same scrub, or peeling (as you like). In its composition, it contains delicate small particles of silicic acid. I also bought this cream from the premium series for my mother as a gift. And then, of course, I tested it on myself.

Here is a 75 ml tube. The shelf life after opening is 6 months. The lid is usually unscrewed.

I walked in a box with a Russian translation.

With an international ecolabel badge.

Mode of application:

Massage the exfoliant in circular motions once or twice a week onto damp face and neck, then rinse off with plain water.
Avoid the eye area and redness.

Together with the box there was an insert, which contains a lot of useful information (description, application, useful properties, how to apply correctly on the face, etc.)

This is how it looks on the hand. Mineral particles of silicic acid are visible.

The composition is 100% approved by the Ecogolic.ru service. It contains a whole storehouse of only useful substances. The extract of plant stem cells from the sea krithmum activates the processes of cell renewal, evens out microrelief, stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, slowing down the aging process. It prevents the appearance of hyperpigmentation, helps to achieve a more even skin tone, has antioxidant and regenerating properties. Its main advantage is the enhancement of the lifting effect. For those who are interested, on my channel you can watch a video using this tool in combination with other tools called "French system of deep cleaning of the face".