The main methods of production of knitted products. Technological process "Production of knitwear

10.10.2019

The work contains: 25 pages, 3 tables, 1 flowchart.

Keywords: technological process, thread, fabric, knitting, cutting, detail, sewing, product, quality.

The purpose of the work is to study the main processes carried out in the process of knitwear production.

Studied and described the technology of production of knitwear. Also, information is given about the equipment used in the manufacturing process of products, and the main requirements for the quality of finished products are noted.

Introduction 3

1. Description of the theoretical foundations of the technological process of manufacturing knitwear. 4

2.Raw material used in the production process.

requirements for its quality. 6

3. Technology for the production of knitwear. 10

4. Information about the equipment used in the process

production of knitwear. 15

4.1. Equipment used in the process

knitting fabric. 15

4.2. Equipment used in the process

sewing product. 16

4.3. Auxiliary equipment. 17

5. Requirements for the quality of the finished

products and methods of its control. 18

6. Standards for the rules of acceptance, testing, storage

and operation of the goods. 21

Conclusion. 24

List of used literature. 25

Introduction

For the production of clothing, various materials are used, which are divided into the main, constituent parts of the top and lining; applied, used to create a frame, rigid form, strengthening parts; heat-insulating; connecting; accessories and finishing.

The main materials used are fabrics, knitted fabrics, woven, film and layered materials of various fibrous composition and structure, artificial furs and leathers. The industry mainly manufactures clothes from fabrics and knitted fabrics. According to the raw material composition, they are divided into cotton, woolen, silk, linen, according to their purpose - into coats, suits, dresses, shirts, underwear and lining. Various requirements are imposed on the appearance, hygienic properties of these materials, resistance to various influences. So, the materials used for the details of the top of the coat must have a beautiful appearance, sufficient resistance to abrasion and crushing loads; lining - good resistance to abrasion, hygroscopicity, vapor and air tightness.

Knitted products include products obtained from threads (yarn) by machine or hand knitting.

Some knitted products are completely knitted on machines (stockings, socks, scarves, mittens, etc.), others - underwear, most outer knitwear, gloves - are sewn from knitted fabric made (knitted) on machines.

According to the purpose of the manufactured products, the knitwear industry is divided into the following types of production: outerwear and linen knitwear, hosiery, gloves, technical fabrics and medical products.

The knitted product is characterized by high extensibility and plasticity, which makes it possible to achieve a feeling of lightness and comfort.

1. Description of the theoretical foundations of the technological process of manufacturing knitwear.

Knitwear is a textile fabric or a product obtained by knitting, so any knitted material is a system of loops connected in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

Knitted fabric consists of two perpendicularly intersecting systems of threads. The longitudinal threads are called the warp, and the transverse threads are called the weft. The primary element of the knitwear structure is the loop. It is a spatial curve, the shape of which affects the properties of the web. The shape of the loops is varied: rounded, wide, narrowed, elongated.

In height, loops of normal size, reduced and enlarged are distinguished. The higher the loop and the more the thread is straightened, the lighter the canvas appears as a result of the directed reflection of light.

The loops, connecting with each other horizontally, form looped rows, vertically - looped columns. The distance between the centers or points of the same name of two adjacent loops along the line of the loop row is called the loop step.

Knitwear is divided into warp knitting and knitwear. In the warp knitting, each thread forms one loop in the loop row and goes to the next row. In knitwear, each thread sequentially forms loops of one loop row. One thread is enough to form one loop row of knitwear. To form a loop row of warp knitwear, as a rule, as many threads are required as there are loops in the loop row.

Knitwear and warp knitwear can be either single or double. Single knitwear is produced on machines with one needle bed, and double knitwear is produced on machines with two needle beds.

According to the classification, all knitted weaves are divided into main (weaves with the simplest structure) and derivatives (a combination of several identical main weaves mutually knitted so that looped columns of another of the same weave are placed between the stitches of one weave). On the basis of each of the classes of these groups, patterned and combined weaves (weaves that consist of weaves of several classes) can be formed.

To obtain fabric in the simplest case, two systems of threads (warp and weft) are needed. Knitwear can be knitted entirely from one thread. As well as knitwear can be made in the following ways:

cutting machine

semi-regular

regular

The cutting method consists in cutting the knitted fabric, i.e. cut out from it the details of the products according to the patterns and connect them on a sewing machine, giving the products the necessary shape. This method is used to make underwear and outerwear, as well as most of the glove products. This method of manufacturing products is characterized by significant waste of knitted fabric, reaching 18-23% when cutting linen products and up to 25-28% when cutting upper products. This technology is used for low-cost products in mass production and linen knitwear. Positive for this method is the possibility of manufacturing products of various models and high productivity of knitting machines.

The semi-regular method differs from the previous one in that the knitted fabric is knitted on a circular knitting machine in the form of tubular coupons. The coupons are separated from one another with the help of a dividing loop row so that the lower edge of the coupon has a solid, non-unfolding loop row that does not require sewing. The consumption of knitted fabric per product with a semi-regular manufacturing method is 3-5% less than with a cutting method due to the absence of side seams and hem allowances for the bottom of the product; in addition, the time for cutting and sewing is 8-10% less.

The semi-regular method is most common in the manufacture of outerwear, and can also be used for the manufacture of lingerie with the necessary knitting equipment. Products made in this way have the great advantage of achieving the best fit and fit of the product.

The regular way of making a product is that the products are knitted entirely without seams or individual parts are knitted along the contour, and then sewn with a chain stitch. This method is characterized by the most economical use of raw materials. However, knitting the details of the product requires more labor than knitting in a semi-regular way. This method is used when knitting upper products from expensive material.

The last two technologies are most applicable in exclusive small-scale production, because they make it possible to achieve high quality products, a maximum range of products and a quick change of models.

2.Raw material used in the production process. requirements for its quality.

Raw materials are one of the main factors that shape the quality of knitwear. Currently, knitting enterprises process almost all types and varieties of fibers and threads obtained from them.

Threads consist of short or long elementary fibers of various nature. They are divided in the transverse direction into their constituent parts - fibers by unwinding.

According to the type of raw materials used, knitted fabrics and products are divided into three groups:

From yarn - these are threads consisting of short fibers formed as a result of torsion;

· From the threads consisting, as a rule, of long monofilaments and having various twist;

· From various combinations of yarn and threads.

At present, all types of raw materials are processed in the knitwear industry, including yarn from natural silk tows and from flax fibers mixed with synthetic ones; threads of various thicknesses and degrees of twist are used. Basically, yarn and threads of mixed fiber composition are used, which provides good hygienic properties of the fabrics, less shrinkage and creasing, good wear resistance.

Linen fabrics are produced mainly from cotton, cotton-lavsan, cotton-polynose, cotton-viscose yarn, as well as from viscose, acetate and polyamide complex yarns. A number of fabrics are made from half-woolen and pure-woolen yarn. Cloths for outer knitwear are made from all types of raw materials; hosiery - mainly from polyamide threads, cotton and half-woolen yarn.

Depending on the purpose of the canvases, threads of different structures are selected: yarn of various spinning methods and degrees of twist, single-filament and twisted complex threads from chemical raw materials, shaped twist threads, textured threads, and in different combinations - twisted yarn with complex threads, textured threads - with yarn etc.

Thin and smooth threads from chemical raw materials are used for fabrics with increased surface smoothness (front and back), which should easily slide over the surface of the skin and outerwear. These are underwear, blouses and shirts. The shiny surface of the threads emphasizes the effect of shiny and matte stripes and shades. From threads of increased volume - textured - fabrics are obtained with a relief surface, increased thickness with a small mass of 1 m 2. Thick, loose yarn is used for fleece in fabrics for warm underwear or sportswear.

Yarn and threads of increased twist give the fabric rigidity; the loop structure of such knitwear is uneven due to the increased tension of the thread when bending into loops, the twisting of the edges of the fabric increases, but its surface is less loose, more wear-resistant. Twisted yarn and threads are subjected to pre-treatment (steaming, stabilization, oiling) in order to balance their structure and relieve stress.

The best yarn in terms of properties cannot be considered satisfactory if it does not meet the requirements of the product being produced or is not prepared for processing on equipment under modern production conditions.

Incomplete readiness of raw materials for processing has a negative impact not only on the quality and grade of products, but also on the performance of the enterprise and the use of equipment.

The wide range of requirements for raw materials for knitwear is due to the very large variety of the products themselves. For example, requirements for the structure of the thread are imposed, ranging from nylon monofilament for thin stockings and ending with loose woolen and synthetic yarn for pullovers and jackets.

If we imagine schematically a thread with a round cross section, then with an increase in the diameter of the thread, its resistance to bending will increase significantly. It is of interest to us to increase the diameter of the thread without increasing the number of fibers in the cross section. This is quite possible if the threads betray a loose structure. The loose structure of the yarn has many advantages, the main of which are: 1) an increase in the elastic resistance to bending and the ability to better restore the shape of the loop during deformation; 2) high quilting, which allows the use of threads of a lower linear density (by 10-15%) without increasing the density of knitting (reducing the length of the thread in the loop) and therefore without reducing the productivity of knitting machines; 3) lightening the weight of the product and giving it a pleasant softness to the touch; 4) increasing the thermal insulation properties of products; 5) improving the ability of yarn to be processed on knitting machines.

A thread (yarn) of a loose structure is especially necessary for the manufacture of upper knitwear. For linen products that should fit the body well, you need not a stiff thread, but a very flexible one, consisting of fine fibers, but a loose structure that can maintain the shape of a loop. For winter hosiery, a thread of a loose structure is needed, and for most other hosiery, a denser, twisted thread is desirable. For women's stockings, the densest thread, such as monofilament, with minimal curling is preferred to make the stocking appear thinner.

The loose structure of the yarn is achieved due to reduced twist, which is associated with a decrease in the strength of the yarn. If for fabric strength is the main property of the thread, then for knitwear this property is of secondary importance.

For knitwear, the evenness of the thread in thickness and twist is more important than for fabric products.

The structure of knitwear loops is such that a short piece of thread is bent several times, intertwining with itself and forming loops located next to each other. The thread in each loop, as it were, folds in half, which is why its unevenness becomes pronounced. A group of loops is formed from a thickened or thinned section of the thread, easily distinguishable from neighboring ones. With periodic unevenness of the thread, a defect is obtained, known as zebra.

Thus, the requirements for raw materials in terms of thread evenness are based on the structural features of knitwear loops.

Among the most important requirements for raw materials, it is impossible not to point out the resistance of the thread to friction. The elasticity of knitwear loops during deformation is associated with the friction of the threads on the thread (when the shape of the loop changes) and the friction between the fibers (when the thread is bent). Friction resistance in this case plays a very significant role. It can be reduced by reducing the coefficient of friction and improving the surface condition of the thread, which is achieved by waxing or emulsifying the thread, which reduces the coefficient of friction of the thread on the thread and on the thread guides of knitting machines.

The smoothness of the surface of the thread, its cleanliness, the absence of impurities, cones, knots are necessary not only for the normal course of the thread processing process, but also to give knitwear elasticity, dimensional stability, and good appearance. Some experts in knitwear argue that the finishing of knitwear is intended to improve the properties of raw materials or correct their shortcomings. It is not right. Knitwear is formed from the thread, and the properties of the knitwear primarily depend on the initial properties of the thread. For the production of good products, finishers must receive a full-fledged harsh jersey.

The considered requirements are common for all types of threads intended for the production of knitwear. However, they do not exhaust all the requirements for raw materials. For example: yarn that does not meet the requirements of knitwear production includes: unwound cobs, on which yarn is missing more than 30% of the weight of the forging, yarn on broken containers, frayed, mixed numbers, moldy, dirty, oily, different shades.

External defects of yarn on skeins include: tangled and broken threads, foreign and oily threads, loose ends, large knots, thickening and thinning of the thread, bumps, and different colors.

The determination of external defects of raw materials is carried out by visual inspection of the surface of the packages (bobbins, skeins) or by winding the yarn on a screen board. Yarn defectiveness is determined by counting the number of defects on a certain length in comparison with the standards established in the relevant GOSTs. The methodology for checking raw materials of all types is carried out in accordance with GOST 6611-55 “Textile yarn and threads. Test Methods".

All types of threads and yarns are checked for the following basic physical and mechanical properties: thickness, strength, twist (number of twists per 1 m), moisture content (% of absolutely dry weight). The physical and mechanical properties of raw materials should be checked under certain conditions of humidity and temperature of the room in which the test is performed. In GOST 10681-63, these conditions are defined: temperature -20 + 8 0 С, relative humidity -65 2%.

According to the current GOSTs, the following winding density indicators are established: for viscose silk in the range of 0.7-0.8 g/cm 3 . The density of winding cotton, woolen and semi-woolen yarn is not regulated by GOSTs.

Yarn that does not comply with the requirements of this standard may be used for other industries, provided that it complies with the requirements established for this industry.

3. Technology for the production of knitwear.

Because there are many types of knitwear and each type has its own characteristics in manufacturing, we will consider the manufacture of a knitted product using the example of linen knitwear.

In the manufacture of linen knitwear, the following technological transitions are provided: quality control of raw materials, packaging of raw materials, knitting of the fabric, preparation of the fabric for cutting, covering the flooring, cutting the fabric, picking cut parts, sewing knitwear, technical control.

Quality control of raw materials. Raw materials received at the warehouse of a knitwear enterprise are evaluated by their appearance. Samples of raw materials are tested in the laboratory to determine the physical and mechanical properties. Methods for testing raw materials and types of their defects must comply with those specified in the current regulatory and technical documentation.

Packaging of raw materials. After laboratory testing, raw materials are delivered in batches to workshop warehouses in boxes, boxes or other containers. At the workshop warehouse, raw materials are unpacked and packaged. The packaged raw materials are fed to knitting machines. Reels found during packaging with defective winding are set aside for rewinding.

Knitting cloth. Before knitting, the threads must be kept in storage places for at least 10 hours under normal climatic conditions. The fabric is knitted on machines in accordance with the filling data. The knitting density is measured on the machine in the free state of the fabric. Pieces of fabric from threads of the same linear density are knitted of the same mass (10-12 kg) with deviations not exceeding 5%.

The quality of the fabric in the process of knitting throughout the shift is controlled by the knitter and assistant master. The knitter is obliged to keep the machine clean - clean it every shift.

Preparing the canvas for cutting. The knitted fabric after finishing goes to the departments for preparing the fabric for cutting, in which they carry out: reception of the fabric and applied materials; sorting of the canvas, i.e. the canvas is viewed on the machine from both sides to determine its quality and identify defects; storage (tracking) of the canvas; selection of fabric by article and width; assembly of canvases in the flooring; stencil preparation; preparation of applied materials and their issuance for cutting; calculation of the sheet cutting map for each flooring.

The canvas is fed into the preparation department in batches, i.e. according to articles, colors and calculated widths. Pieces of fabric selected for flooring are fed to the cutting room along with the cutting map and the prepared stencil.

Floor covering. Chalking the top layer of the flooring, or drawing the contours of the parts to be cut on the top layer of the flooring, is performed in two ways: by patterns and by stencil.

When chalking according to patterns, on the top layer of the flooring, in accordance with the layout sketch, the patterns are laid out in such a way that the area of the canvas is used most rationally.

When using a stencil, the patterns laid out on it are outlined along the contours, on which through holes are then applied. Stencil chalking consists in the fact that a stencil is applied to the top layer of the flooring and the holes of the contours of the patterns are powdered with chalk powder or talc.

Open the canvases. The cutting of the web is preceded by the operation of laying the web and cutting it into sections.

The warp knitted fabric is laid in a turn or bend. Laying bend is used when cutting products in small batches. Laying in a turn provides a more economical use of the web compared to laying a bend due to the rational arrangement of product patterns over a large width of the web; in addition, with this method, control of the web is facilitated.

The laying of the canvas is carried out by machine and manually. The web flooring is cut by mobile cutting machines with straight and circular knives and stationary tape machines.

During this operation, the following requirements must be met:

ü Cloths of fabrics in the flooring should be located freely, without tension and distortions, but also without slack and wrinkles, otherwise the cut details may be deformed;

ü The pattern in all flooring sheets must match in length and width, otherwise the symmetry of the pattern is violated in the finished product;

ü The direction of the pile in all flooring cloths must match, so that in all details of the finished product the pile is directed in one direction.

Cutting the canvas is a complex and responsible operation. It is possible to ensure high quality cutting when cutting the flooring only if the following requirements are met:

ü High precision of a cut: a deviation from contours of details should not exceed cm;

ü The contours of the parts should not be skewed;

ü Good quality of a cut, ie frequency of edges of the cut-out details.

The quality control of the cut is carried out according to the control patterns by combining the cut-out parts from the flooring with them. Usually they check the top, bottom and one or two parts from the middle of the pack.

Completion of cut parts. The cut-out details after control and sorting complete in packs. At the same time, they are viewed, disassembled by colors and shades, cut in those places where they cannot be cut by machines in the flooring, and inaccuracies in mechanical cutting are corrected.

The final product of the cutting room is a set, i.e. a pack of details selected by the canvas article, color, shade and pattern.

Completed packs are stacked in such a way that all small parts of products and applied materials are collected in dozens and neatly tied. Packs are sent to sewing units.

Sewing of knitwear. Sewing processes cover a whole range of operations, which are mainly divided into the following: sewing, wet-heat and auxiliary.

Sewing operations include not only operations for connecting parts of products with lines to give them a certain shape, provided for by the design, but also operations for overcasting buttonholes, sewing on buttons, sewing on braid and lace, embroidery, etc.

Sewing operations are performed on various types of sewing machines.

In the sewing shops of underwear production, such an organization system as a flow is used. It is characterized by the following main features:

ü The technological process of production of products is divided into separate technologically indivisible operations performed, if necessary, on various equipment;

ü Each performer is assigned a so-called organizational operation, which includes one or more technologically indivisible operations;

ü Workplaces and equipment are located along the technological process of sewing the product;

ü The processed product or a pack of products is transferred to each subsequent operation after the end of this operation;

ü Operations are performed synchronously at all workplaces of the flow in accordance with the established rhythm of the movement of products.

The flow system of organization, depending on the degree of rhythm of work, in turn, is divided into discontinuous flow and continuous flow.

With a discontinuous flow system, products follow from one workplace to another as several products are processed by performers; the sewing conveyor belt serves only to deliver products from one workplace to another or is not used at all.

With a continuous-flow system, each product enters the subsequent operation immediately after the completion of the previous one; the speed of the belt is linked to the duration of operations at each workplace, and the belt itself serves not only to deliver products from one workplace to another, but also to maintain a single rhythm of the entire conveyor process.

Wet-heat treatment of linen products is carried out using presses, steam-air mannequins, and irons. It includes such operations as: ironing (seam allowances are smoothed on two sides) and ironing (seam allowances are smoothed on one side), steaming (steam treatment of the surface of the product to remove shiny areas of the fabric), ironing.

One of the requirements for the manufacture of clothing is the accuracy and high quality of wet-heat treatment, which guarantees the absence of wrinkles, creases and opals of the product.

Auxiliary operations include sewing on labels, sorting products, cleaning finished products from thread ends, and packing products.

Technical control. It is performed at all technological transitions in the manufacture of products from linen and coupons. The tasks of technical control are to check the compliance of the indicators of raw materials and materials entering the enterprise with the indicators of current standards and technical conditions, to check the quality of technological operations and the quality of the fabric and coupons in the production process.

4. Information about the equipment used in the process

production of knitwear.

4.1. Equipment used in knitting fabric.

The fabric for the production of knitted products is of two types:

A. Culinary

§ Smooth

§ Bouffant

V. warp knitted.

Depending on these types, different equipment is used.

The culinary smooth fabric, the most common in underwear production, is produced mainly from cotton fabric. MC-5 circular knitting machine serves as the main machine for the production of a single knitted fabric. This machine, when processing cotton yarn, operates with a peripheral speed of the cylinder equal to 0.6-0.7. Depending on the diameter of the cylinder, the machines have a different number of needles and loop-forming systems and, accordingly, different performance:

With an increase in the number of loop-forming systems, the productivity of the machine increases.

Culinary fleece is used in the production of both underwear and outerwear.

Lined weave fabric based on satin stitch is the most common for warm, linen, sports and children's outerwear.

The main machine for the production of lined weave fabric is a single circular knitting machine MT.

When using cotton yarn, the circumferential speed of the needle cylinder is 1.7 or more, and the productivity of the machine is 6.5-8 lined weaves.

The main machine for the production of warp-knitted fabric is the Koket-E2 machine. Knitting speed 1800 loop rows per minute. Sectional spools with warp threads are installed on the machine, the length of the thread wound on the spool is 60,000 m. roll weight of 100 kg or more. The drive mechanism allows you to adjust the knitting speed in accordance with the quality of the threads and their breakage.

The working width of the Koket-E2 machine can be selected from the following six values:

Since the machine can knit a fabric of any width or several fabrics with a total width that fits into the maximum working width of the machine, some efficiency from the use of wide machines is possible. The productivity of a machine with a working width of 4267 mm is about 80% of the productivity of two machines with a working width of 2134 mm.

4.2. The equipment used in the sewing of the product.

Single-needle stitching-overlocking machines are most widely used for grinding product parts with simultaneous trimming and overcasting of cuts.

Domestic car 208 cells. has a straight needle and sews a three-thread overlock stitch. The frequency of rotation of the main shaft 500 min -1 . Stitch length 1.5-3.2 mm. Seam width 2.5-4 mm.

Machine 8515/110 class. association "Textima" performs a three-thread overcasting stitch. The frequency of rotation of the main shaft 8000 min -1 . Stitch length from 0.6 to 3.2 mm. The machine is equipped with a thread cutter and a part stacker.

For processing sections of a belt, underpants, underpants, etc. the 1476 two-needle machine is used, performing a three-thread flat chain stitch. The machine is equipped with a device for feeding, guiding and tensioning the elastic band. The frequency of rotation of the main shaft 500 min -1 . Stitch length 1.8-2.8 mm.

4.3. Auxiliary equipment.

We can refer to auxiliary equipment: machines for rewinding yarn (winding machines), rulers for measuring the length of the thread in the loop when knitting the fabric, dyeing machines AK-220T for dyeing the fabric, centrifuges for squeezing the fabric, presses and irons used in wet heat treatment and etc.

To transport the fabric after knitting, parts after cutting, as well as auxiliary materials (buttons, threads, button hooks, etc.), belt and cradle conveyors, as well as floor shelves and trolleys are used.

5. Requirements for the quality of the finished

products and methods of its control.

Acceptance quality control of finished clothes can be continuous or selective. Quality control of finished products in most cases selective. For quality control, at least 10% of products are selected from each batch. The objects of control are the appearance of the product, the quality of its fit on the figure and the quality of processing.

External inspection of products is carried out on mannequins or models, on tables, on forms. In the process of inspection, the conformity of the product to the approved sample is established in terms of silhouette, shape, cut, etc.

GOST provides a list of features that characterize the correct fit of the product on the figure:

ü Absence of warps and wrinkles;

ü The correct arrangement of the shelves (they should not diverge or overlap one another more than provided for in the sample);

ü The correct location of the collar (it should fit snugly to the neck and be free of distortions);

ü Proper arrangement of sleeves;

The quality of clothing processing is characterized by the following indicators: accuracy of reproduction of the shape and dimensions of the product, its individual parts and lines; the accuracy of the mutual arrangement of parts, lines and components of the product, as well as the accuracy of the location of the product on the human figure.

Accuracy, which characterizes the quality of product manufacturing, is the degree of approximation of the manufactured product to the calculated nominal prototype. In GOSTs and technical specifications for knitwear, the sizes of permissible deviations for various types of clothing (outerwear, underwear, etc.) are given. These tolerances range from 1 to 10 mm.

To assess the accuracy of reproducing the shape of individual parts and product lines, simple measuring instruments and tools are used: rulers, tape measures, centimeter tapes, templates. Applying measuring instruments to the product (part), check the correctness of their shape. Of great importance is the symmetry of paired parts of clothing (sleeves, collar ends). GOST recommends checking the symmetry of these parts by combining. The correctness of the shape of the lines formed by the edges of the product and its parts, seams, etc., is controlled using rulers and special templates.

GOST refers to the main linear measurements as follows: for shoulder products - back length, back width, sleeve length, collar length, product width along the waist line and at hip level; for waist - the length of the product along the side seam, the length of half the belt or the width along the waist line. The remaining measurements are auxiliary and their verification during quality control of products is optional.

The measurement results of products are compared with the requirements of the standards. Measurements are made with an accuracy of 0.1 cm (knitted gloves) and up to 0.5 cm (all other knitwear).

The accuracy of the relative position of parts, nodes and lines (patch pockets, folds, etc.) of products is checked by measuring the distance between them, the distance from them to the edges, seams of the product.

The correctness of the direction of the pattern of the knitted fabric in the details of the product, the symmetry of the pattern in paired details, the coincidence of the pattern in the seams of the connection of the details is checked visually during an external examination of the product.

During an external examination of the product, the quality of the connections is also determined - thread, glue. In thread seams, the correct tension of the threads in the line is controlled by stretching it in the longitudinal and transverse directions. If the threads are too tight, the stitches will break when stretched along the seam. When stretched across the seam, insufficiently tightened stitch threads are visible in the gap between the parts to be joined.

The stitch frequency is checked by counting the number of stitches in 1 cm of a line and comparing the results with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation.

The rigidity of adhesive joints in finished products is checked organoleptically, and the strength is checked with moderate pulling of the fastened parts.

Depending on the presence of defects, their nature, size, location, total quantity, high-quality knitwear is divided into 1st and 2nd grades.

The 1st grade includes products that fully comply with the requirements of standards, specifications and technical descriptions of models, and in terms of aesthetic properties - approved samples.

Products of the 2nd grade or out of grade include products that do not meet the requirements that apply to products of the 1st grade, depending on the type, size and number of defects.

No more than three different defects in fabric appearance listed in the grading standard are allowed in 2nd grade knitted outerwear. Applied materials in outer jerseys must be in the color of the main fabric or in harmony with it. In products of light colors, it is allowed to use white braid, in products of dark colors - a zipper with black braid.

In linen knitwear of the 2nd grade, up to three defects in the appearance of the fabric of different names are allowed from among those specified in the standard for determining the grade. Zebrist in linen products is not taken into account.

Color dots from dyes in an amount of up to five are not taken into account, more than five are referred to as a "spot" defect.

In hosiery, defects that disappear when dressed on the leg are not taken into account.

Knitwear, in which defects exceed the maximum allowable norms established by the standards for products of the 2nd grade, are classified as low-grade (poor quality) products.

In complete products, the grade of each product included in the kit is determined separately. The grade of the entire set is set according to the product of the lowest grade: for example, if the jacket in the suit is of the 1st grade, and the skirt is of the 2nd grade, then the entire set is assigned to the 2nd grade.

The following pronounced defects are not allowed in high-quality top, underwear, glove knitwear, as well as knitted hats and scarves: thickening or thinning due to uneven yarn and threads, lack of crimp effect, transverse stripes from stopping the machine, zebrit, violation of the pattern when knitting, soiling, unacceptable black and rust stains, different lining colors in one pair of jerseys.

6. Standards for the rules of acceptance, testing, storage

and operation of the goods.

Marking. They mark piece and complete products, as well as packages, boxes and packs with knitwear. For marking piece and complete products, product labels, tapes with the image of a trademark, control tapes are used.

On product labels indicate the trademark of the manufacturer; name, location (address) of the manufacturer; name of the product, its affiliation; article number; model number; dimensions; grade; release date. Details on product labels can be filled in completely or abbreviated. The number of the controller and the date of issue of the products can be supplied with a composter or a stamp. In this case, the details "OTC number" and "release date" are not indicated on the product label.

It is required that product labels be artistically designed and have a variety of forms: in the form of a booklet, a separate sheet. Labels should not exceed 60 cm2. Product labels for knitwear for newborns and toddlers should be no more than 25 cm 2.

A product label can be sewn on, hung on a product or attached to it. The hung label must have one or two holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the top edge; when attached with polyethylene holders, the product label may be without a hole. On hosiery product labels are allowed to stick.

A ribbon with the image of a trademark is used to mark knitted outerwear and underwear made of all types of threads and yarns (except for products made from cotton, cotton-viscose and linen yarn), products made from natural raw materials with synthetic finishes. On the tape with the image of the trademark, symbols for the care of products in accordance with the requirements of GOST 16958-71 and the name of the raw material, and its percentage by fiber, must be indicated. All data on the tape must be printed or silk-screen printed.

For marking boxes, packs of cardboard, packs of products packed in paper or a plastic bag, a packaging label is used, which must contain the following details: image of the trademark of the manufacturer; name and location (address) of the manufacturer; name of the product, its affiliation; model number; dimensions; grade; retail price; number of products; color; packer number; issue date (month, year).

The packaging label is glued to one of the end sides of the package so that when it is opened, the marking on the packaging label is not violated. The size of the packaging label must not exceed 150 cm2.

Complete products of one article of the canvas are marked with one product label, which is attached to the main product, indicating the total retail price, or separate labels attached to each product.

In complete products from different types of knitted fabric, each product of the kit is marked with a product label and a control tape.

Outer knitwear made of woolen, synthetic, semi-woolen yarn (except bouffant) must be attached with yarn (in the color of the product) at least 5 m long or a piece of fabric with an area of \u200b\u200bno more than 10 cm 2, a width of at least 5 cm. In addition, to the listed products are applied with spare buttons (1 pc) of each size, if there are more than one in the product.

Package. For packaging products, consumer packaging (individual or group), paper and shipping containers are used. Products must be ironed and molded in accordance with approved regimes before being packed into containers.

Consumer packaging includes a bag made of polyethylene, cellophane film or paper, boxes with a lid and packs of cardboard with valves.

The number of products packed in boxes, packs of cardboard and paper must comply with the requirements of the standard.

Folded and bound products are wrapped in paper in 1.5-2.5 turns, giving the package a rectangular shape. The end sides of the package are closed in an envelope way and tied crosswise. A packaging label is glued to one of the end sides, a paper coupon is glued to the other, on which the packer's stamp is affixed so that one part of the stamp captures the coupon, and the other wrapping paper.

For local shipments, it is allowed to use flexible packaging for the delivery of products packed in bags.

Transportation. Knitwear can be transported by all means of transport in accordance with the rules for the carriage of goods in force for this type of transport. For out-of-town transportation, products packed in consumer packaging are delivered in shipping containers or containers.

Storage. Knitwear is stored in dry, well-ventilated, and in winter - in heated warehouses at a temperature not lower than 10 and not higher than 30 0 C and relative air humidity 50-70%. At higher relative humidity, mold and microorganisms develop on products. As a result, stains of various colors and shades may appear on the products, the color of the canvas and other materials may change. If the relative humidity of the air is too low, knitted products dry out, become stiff, brittle.

Knitwear stored in warehouses must be protected from direct sunlight, dust, moth and rodent damage. Under the influence of sunlight, products fade, white materials turn yellow, elasticity of products, tensile strength, etc. change.

Warehouses for storing knitwear are equipped with shelving, wooden flooring. Products are stored on racks in boxes and packs, and boxes with products are placed on the flooring.

Products are located at a distance of at least 1 m from heaters, 0.5 m from electric lighting lamps, 0.2 m from the floor and internal walls, and 0.7 m between racks.

Products are stored sorted by type, model, size, height and other characteristics.

To better preserve the properties and quality of knitwear, it is recommended to periodically (at least once a month) shift boxes, packs and other packaging.

Conclusion.

Knitwear production is a large and most promising branch of light industry. This is primarily due to the fact that knitwear production is less labor-intensive than textile (weaving), and knitwear has a complex of various properties (reliability, aesthetic and ergonomic).

The expansion of the range and the improvement of the quality of products is carried out through the use of new types of raw materials, the development of canvases of new structures and patterns, the introduction of new techniques and technologies. The efficiency of production is increased by increasing the productivity of labor and equipment, introducing new highly efficient technological processes, improving the organization of production, its mechanization and automation.

The production of knitwear is constantly growing.

List of used literature:

1. T.S. Huseynova, G.V. Zhiltsov "Commodity research of garments and knitwear". Publisher: Economics. Moscow 1985

2. A.A. Gusev "General technology of knitwear production". Ed .: Light industry and consumer services. Moscow 1987

3. O.D. Galanina, E.G. Prokhorenko "Technology of knitwear production". Publisher: Light industry. Moscow 1975

4. I.I. Shalov "Design of knitwear production". Publisher: Light industry. Moscow 1977

5. L.N. Flerova, L.V. Zolottseva "Manufacture of knitted linen products." Publisher: Light industry and household industry. Moscow 1987

6. A.K. Znamensky, A.G. Kuznetsova "Technical control in knitwear production". Publisher: Light Industry. Moscow 1968

Because there are many types of knitwear and each type has its own characteristics in manufacturing, we will consider the manufacture of a knitted product using the example of linen knitwear.

The quality of the fabric in the process of knitting throughout the shift is controlled by the knitter and assistant master. The knitter is obliged to keep the machine clean - clean it every shift.

Floor covering. Chalking the top layer of the flooring, or drawing the contours of the parts to be cut on the top layer of the flooring, is performed in two ways: by patterns and by stencil.

Open the canvases. The cutting of the web is preceded by the operation of laying the web and cutting it into sections.

The laying of the canvas is carried out by machine and manually. The web flooring is cut by mobile cutting machines with straight and circular knives and stationary tape machines.

During this operation, the following requirements must be met:

l Cloths of fabrics in the flooring should be located freely, without tension and distortions, but also without slack and wrinkles, otherwise the details of the cut may be deformed;

b The pattern in all flooring sheets must match in length and width, otherwise the symmetry of the pattern is violated in the finished product;

b The direction of the pile in all flooring sheets must be the same so that in all details of the finished product the pile is directed in one direction.

Cutting the canvas is a complex and responsible operation. It is possible to ensure high quality cutting when cutting the flooring only if the following requirements are met:

ь High precision of a cut: a deviation from contours of details should not exceed cm;

b The contours of the parts should not be skewed;

b Good cut quality, i.e. the frequency of the edges of the cut parts.

The final product of the cutting room is a set, i.e. a pack of details selected by the canvas article, color, shade and pattern.

Completed packs are stacked in such a way that all small parts of products and applied materials are collected in dozens and neatly tied. Packs are sent to sewing units.

Sewing of knitwear. Sewing processes cover a whole range of operations, which are mainly divided into the following: sewing, wet-heat and auxiliary.

Sewing operations are performed on various types of sewing machines.

In the sewing shops of underwear production, such an organization system as a flow is used. It is characterized by the following main features:

b The technological process of production of products is divided into separate technologically indivisible operations performed, if necessary, on various equipment;

l Each performer is assigned a so-called organizational operation, which includes one or more technologically indivisible operations;

ь Workplaces and equipment are located in the course of the technological process of sewing the product;

b The workpiece or a pack of products is transferred to each subsequent operation after the end of this operation;

ь Operations are performed synchronously at all workplaces of the flow in accordance with the established rhythm of the movement of products.

The flow system of organization, depending on the degree of rhythm of work, in turn, is divided into discontinuous flow and continuous flow.

One of the requirements for the manufacture of clothing is the accuracy and high quality of wet-heat treatment, which guarantees the absence of wrinkles, creases and opals of the product.

Auxiliary operations include sewing on labels, sorting products, cleaning finished products from thread ends, and packing products.

The production of knitwear includes a number of sequential operations: designing knitwear; preparation of yarn and threads for knitting, knitting of a knitted fabric or product, cutting, joining knitwear parts, wet heat treatment and final finishing.

Design of knitwear consists of modeling and construction operations. However, when designing knitted products, it is necessary to take into account the extensibility of knitted fabrics. By extensibility, the fabrics are divided into four groups: fabrics with an extensibility of up to 40%, from 40 to 70, more than 70 and more than 100%. Taking into account the extensibility group of the canvases, the issue of allowances is solved. So, for the first group, allowances for free fit should be positive, and for the fourth - negative. In addition, it should be taken into account that when stretched, knitted fabrics become shorter in the direction of the buttonholes. For example, the narrowing of the back and front for a sweater from the fabrics of the third group should not be more than 4 cm. The height difference of knitwear depends on the type of product.

Preparation of yarn and threads for knitting consists in checking their quality, rewinding, moistening, emulsifying and waxing. Yarn made from natural fibers is waxed to give it smoothness. Emulsification is applied to mixed yarns and multifilament yarns to give them softness and flexibility. Wet yarn has higher knitting ability, reduces breakage and reduces needle breakage. The yarn used for the production of warp knitwear is warped. For this purpose, it is wound on separate coils, which are then installed on a common shaft, forming a beam.

Straight and niches used for the manufacture of knitwear, differ in fiber composition, structure, spinning method, thickness, structure and finish. Yarns and filaments produced by various processes may vary in terms of twist, fineness, appearance and properties.

All kinds of textile yarns and threads are used for the production of knitwear.

According to the structure, the yarn can be single-stranded, twisted, roped, textured, shaped. Single yarn consists of monofilaments that do not divide in the longitudinal direction without breaking. Twisted yarns and threads consist of two or more twisted threads. Drawn yarn and threads consist of two or more folded threads.

According to the method of spinning, cotton yarn is divided into combed, carded, hardware. Woolen yarn can be combed and hardware. Mixed yarn is widely used for knitting knitwear. Yarn of different fibrous composition gives knitwear a variety of consumer properties: softness, silkiness, strength, resistance to abrasion.

By type of finish, yarn can be harsh, dyed, bleached, melange (consisting of fibers dyed in different colors), multi-color, vigoneva, pile, mercerized, sour, etc.

Yarn and threads used in knitwear production are subject to certain requirements for uniformity in

Chapter 4

Knitted goods

thickness and twist, strength, color. Yarn and threads must be soft, flexible, stretchable, free from defects.

Knitting knitted fabrics and products carried out on knitting machines. The productivity of knitting machines is several times higher than the productivity of looms, the labor and costs of knitting production are lower, and working conditions are much better due to the low noise level. Therefore, the production of knitted fabrics has better technical and economic indicators than weaving.

Knitting machines are classified according to the principle of obtaining knitwear, the shape of the needle beds, the number of needle beds, the type of knitting needles, design features, purpose, etc.

According to the principle of obtaining knitwear, machines are divided into cross-knitting (kulirny) and warp-knitting. According to the number of needle beds, machines come with one needle bed (single-hole) and two needle beds (double-hole).

The design of the working bodies depends on the type of web or product and the looping process. The most common in knitting machines are hook and reed needles.

According to the shape of the needle beds, the machines are flat knitting and circular knitting. On flat knitting machines, metered fabrics and product details are produced. On circular knitting machines, the needle beds are in the shape of a cylinder; fabrics in the form of a tube, hosiery, etc. are knitted on them.

The distance from the geometric center of the needle to the center of the next needle is denoted as needle pitch knitting machine.

The number of needles per unit length of the needle bar is called knitting machine class. The higher the class, the more needles per unit length, the thinner the needles should be, the thinner the fabric produced.

The properties of knitwear are determined by two main factors: the properties of the threads from which the knitwear is formed, and the structure of the knitwear. The shape and length of the thread in the loop, the relative position of the loops depend on the conditions for their formation on a knitting machine. There is a wide variety of types of knitwear. But the processes of loop formation are based on a single

principle. To form a loop, it is necessary to create such a position of two threads, in which one of the threads (new thread) is pulled through the loop previously formed from the other thread.

Finishing of knitted fabrics. Fabrics removed from knitting machines, as well as finished products, individual parts and coupons are finished to improve their appearance and give them a set of necessary properties. Before finishing operations, the fabric is darned if necessary. The sequence and types of finishing operations used depend on the purpose, fiber composition, thread structure, and fabric structure.

The complete finishing cycle consists of the following operations: soaking, washing, boiling, bleaching, stabilizing, dyeing, printing, sizing, broadening, decanting, as well as molding finished products.

Finishing processes in knitwear production are similar to the finishing of fabrics. However, the specific properties of knitwear, which are a consequence of its loop structure (increased extensibility, looseness, etc.), also determine the features of the finishing processes. Finishing operations are carried out with a minimum tension of the knitted fabric. The canvases are not treated with a tourniquet, but in a straightened form to prevent creases and wrinkles. The inner surface of the finishing equipment must be smooth so that there are no puffs, breaks and loop descents.

When pre-finishing knitwear - boiling (linen fabrics) or washing (variegated knitted fabrics, fabrics for outerwear), oiling and waxing compounds are removed from the surface of the threads, and relaxation processes occur in the materials. As a result of finishing, the threads in the loops come to an equilibrium state, the loop structure of the fabric is aligned, and it shrinks.

Knitted fabrics made of synthetic threads are subjected to stabilization. To do this, they are exposed to hot air or saturated steam under pressure at temperatures close to the melting point of the polymer. With this processing, thanks to

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Knitted goods

The thermoplasticity of the fibers fixes the shape of the loops and the linear dimensions of the fabric, relieves the internal stresses of the fibers, reduces the wrinkling of knitwear and increases its ability to be dyed.

Finishing pile fabrics, in addition to bleaching, dyeing, printing, drying, raising, includes such operations as cutting to equalize the length of the pile, polishing the surface of the pile layer, and straightening it. When polished, the pile cover of the canvas acquires shine, volume, orientation in a certain direction.

Fabrics made of textured threads are trimmed to give them high volume, elasticity, dimensional stability, and crease resistance. To this end, they are steamed, which gives them volume, washed, dried, stabilized, and then dyed. To give high resistance to washing and dry cleaning, the fabrics are dressed, and antistatic treatment is also carried out.

Fabrics used for outerwear, as well as for protection from atmospheric moisture, are subjected to a water-repellent finish.

Features of cutting knitwear. Before cutting, knitted fabrics are kept in a straightened state (drying) under normal conditions (at a temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of 65%). The resting time depends on the thickness of the knitted fabrics: thick fabrics withstand 48 hours, and thin fabrics - 24 hours. During this time, natural shrinkage occurs in the knitwear and the structure of the fabric stabilizes.

Increased extensibility, curling of the edges and other features cause certain difficulties in performing the operations of the cutting process. Cloths produced on flat machines are laid in a turn, and cloths from round machines are folded in the form of a sleeve. When laying and cutting, special clamps are used along the edges of the flooring.

Operations for joining knitwear parts. Thread seams are used to connect the details of knitwear. The glue method is used when bending the edges of products, attaching applications.

Thread seams in knitwear should have a beautiful appearance, be strong and elastic, correspond to the strength and extensibility of the knitted fabric, and should not unravel along the cuts. This is most consistent with buttonhole stitches.

Buttonhole stitches are characterized by a significant supply of threads in the line, this ensures the extensibility of the seams. By purpose and appearance, buttonhole stitches are divided into three groups: chain, flat and overcast.

Most common chain stitches - single strand and double strand. A single-thread stitch is used in areas of products that are not subjected to significant stretching during wear (for example, the placket of a sweatshirt), as well as for embroidery. The double-thread stitch is used to connect the details of regular products, gloves and mittens, for embroidery. Zigzag chain stitches are used for making loops, finishing tying the edge of the product with air loops (two-thread stitch).

Flat stitches receive on machines with two, three, four needles. These stitches are characterized by sufficient strength, good stretch, beautiful appearance, good stylistics (multi-thread stitches). They are used when making flat seams (butt, overlap, hem with an open cut) and as a finishing seam.

Overcasting stitches the most common. They are used for grinding the details of knitwear with simultaneous overcasting of their sections. Overcasting stitches have good stretch, elasticity and provide sufficient seam strength. Distinguish between stitch, overlock and kettle stitches.

Stitches are mainly used for joining regular knitwear. Overlock double-thread stitches are used to sew the details of regular products when a lot of stitching of the seams is not required, and also to hem the edges of the product. Overlock three- and multi-thread stitches are used to connect the details of knitwear with cut and crumbling

Chapter 4

Knitted goods

slices. With these stitches, seams with folded edges are obtained. Overlay seams on the wrong side have a thickening (scar). For thinning and at the same time for strengthening, a flat two-needle three-thread stitch is applied to the overlock stitch.

Kettel stitches used for joining parts with a loop-to-loop seam (connecting collars, cuffs, trims, etc. to the product), knitting the toes of hosiery, produced on round-hosiery machines. Connections are tensile, strong, without thickening.

The edges of linen products are trimmed with a shell stitch, which gives them a beautiful appearance.

Lockstitches and stitches in knitwear, it is mainly used for processing parts and knots that are not subject to stretching in the toe (processing trims, collars, woven belts, sewing on zippers, etc.).

The types of seams used in the manufacture of knitwear are almost the same as those used in the clothing industry.

Wet heat treatment of knitwear requires special attention. So, due to the peculiarities of the structure and elastic properties, it is impossible to process knitwear with high pressure of ironing surfaces, otherwise the fabric will lose its relief structure and splendor.

The operations of ironing the seams, pulling or sewing the edges of the parts are performed using irons. Knitted products of a simple design (t-shirts, women's shirts, combinations, etc.) are ironed on calenders.

For pressing parts of regular and semi-regular products, coupons, finished outerwear and underwear, presses of various designs are used. The processing cycle of products includes moistening them with steam, pressing and cooling. For molding, wire frame molds are used, on which the product is put on before pressing.

Molding and final WTO of finished products are carried out in steam chambers and on mannequins. Processing of products in steam rooms

chambers includes heating, steaming and drying. Several products can be processed at the same time on the plant. Frame forms can be interchangeable depending on the styles, sizes and heights of products.

Knitted products include clothing made from knitted fabric or knitting threads. The main methods for the production of knitwear are: cutting, semi-regular, regular and whole knit.

cutting method consists in knitting a flat knitted fabric on flat knitting machines or a tubular knitted fabric on circular knitting machines, from which details of a certain size and configuration are cut out according to the model (similar to cutting fabric products). The advantage of the method is that models of any complexity can be obtained, the disadvantage is the waste when cutting up to 18-25% of the knitted fabric.

semi-regular way involves the manufacture of products from a coupon knitted fabric of a tubular or flat shape, obtained from flat and circular knitting machines.

The width of the coupon is equal to the width of the part, or the part fits an integer number of times into the coupon (Fig. 14).

Figure 14. Coupon shape and details for making semi-regular jerseys

The coupons in the canvas are separated from each other by a dividing loop row. The dimensions of the coupon are determined by the overall dimensions of the details of the product, and its lower edge is not unraveled and does not require sewing. Details of knitted products obtained by the semi-regular method have a shape close to the pattern, and require additional trimming along the lines of the neck, armhole and sleeve hem. They are combined into a product on a stitching and overcast buttonhole machine.

in a regular way a knitted product is obtained by means of knitting parts with a complete contour of constructive lines. Details are completely knitted on specialized machines or automatic machines (Fig. 15).

Figure 15. Details for making jerseys in a regular way

Their lower edge, as a rule, is earned at the beginning of knitting, and the remaining contours are formed by changing the number of needles, that is, deductions and increases in loops in the process of knitting. The parts do not require additional cutting operations and are connected without overcasting the edges on chain stitch sewing machines.

Small parts (pockets, collars, flaps, inlays, belts, etc.) are used in the manufacture of cut knitwear in a regular way.

Regular and semi-regular products have important advantages over cut ones, they are more economical and reduce or simplify the cutting and sewing process (for example, due to the absence of side seams). However, at present, up to 60% of knitwear is produced in a cut way. This is due to the relative simplicity of their manufacture, as well as the possibility of expanding the range by designing products of an unlimited number of models of a wide variety of shapes.

Recently, new technologies for producing knitted products have appeared.

Knitted are called products, the shape of which is achieved by knitting the product in automatic mode. The manufacture of such products requires a minimum number of sewing operations (seamless technology).

This technology is the most complex, requiring the use of the latest generation of flat knitting electronic knitting machines, equipped with thread trimming and gripping systems.

Properties of knitted fabrics. An important role in solving the problems of modeling and designing knitwear is played by the properties of knitwear. The main properties include: extensibility, elasticity, shrinkage, thickness, width of the web, twisting of its edges, blooming, etc.

Extensibility- this is the ability of a knitted fabric to deform or change its dimensions under the influence of various kinds of loads, and after their removal, partially or completely recover. The stretching of the knitted fabric can occur in three directions - along the length, width and diagonal.

Figure 16. View of knitwear obtained by cutting,

semi-regular and regular way

Depending on the degree of stretching in width under the action of the same dynamic loads (600 g), all knitted fabrics are divided into three groups:

Cloths of the 1st group have low extensibility - from 0 to 40%;

Cloths of the 2nd group have an average extensibility - from 40 to 100%;

Cloths of the 3rd group have high extensibility - over 100%.

For each of the groups, the values of technical and general increases are set.

The extensibility of knitwear leads to the expansion of the part in the transverse direction and a decrease in its length. In this regard, when designing knitwear, the length of the parts is increased by 1% in the 1st group of fabrics, by 2-2.5% - in the 2nd part by 1% - in the 1st group of fabrics,

A characteristic feature of knitted fabrics is a high proportion of elastic deformation, especially along the width, regardless of the degree of their stretching. The elasticity of the fabric depends on the weave and yarn. The introduction of modern elastomeric threads into the fabric makes it possible to obtain a knitted fabric with an extensibility of up to 500%. Also, the use of weaving a full or incomplete eraser allows you to increase the elasticity of the canvas.

Thickness knitted fabric more than 3 mm requires an increase in the width of the product, equal to three times the thickness (5), i.e. P you \u003d 3 - 5, otherwise the product will be narrowed.

The curling of the edges of knitwear- one of its negative properties. The degree of twisting depends on the type of weave, the density of knitting and the type of fiber. The highest twisting of the edges is observed in single weaves of satin stitch, chain, leotards, satin, 2nd and 3rd stretch groups. Therefore, several rows are knitted along the free edges of the parts (sides, collar flying, etc.) with another more stable weave or additional strips and braid are sewn on.

blooming knitted fabrics occurs when the loop breaks or along the cut. The weaving smoothness has the greatest unraveling. Warp-knitted weaves practically do not bloom. In products made from highly unraveled canvases, it is necessary to lay a chain stitch line along the contour of the part before cutting. The model must have a minimum of divisions.

Shaping of knitwear. In the production of knitted clothing, along with traditional methods of shaping, original ones are also used, due to the properties of yarn, weaving, etc.

The constructive method, which involves cutting the fabric into parts of a certain size and configuration, is used when designing clothes from knitted fabrics of the 1st extensibility group. In the production of one-piece knitted products, a given configuration of the contour of the part is obtained by changing the number of loop columns at a certain distance from the edge of the part or by knitting incomplete loop rows. But the constructive method does not always take into account the peculiarities of the structure and properties of knitwear, in particular its forming ability.

Shaping using the physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics is used in the manufacture of knitted products obtained by regular and semi-regular methods.

For example, as a result of alternating weaves with a full and incomplete eraser, a stable fit (or reduction) of the part is achieved in a given area (Fig. 17).

Figure 17. Shaping a knitted product by changing weaves

Loop step of press, openwork, etc. weaves, changing their knitting density make it possible to achieve an expanding effect (Fig. 18).

Shaping is possible by changing the length of the thread in the loops, their thickness or the introduction of elastic threads or spandex threads.

Technological methods of knitting also allow solving the problem of shaping parts and plasticity of the surface.

For example, a clear kink of a fold or part along the bead line can be ensured by turning off the needle from work when knitting on flat-fanged machines. This technique allows you to achieve a peculiar effect, which consists in the fact that along the entire length of the non-working needle, the knitted fabric breaks, as it were. An exact inflection is dense across the part can be achieved by knitting along the inflection line of one loop row of less density or a thinner thread.

The alternation of front and back knitting along or across the fabric gives the impression of longitudinal or transverse tubular folds, etc. (Figure 19).

The high elasticity of the fabrics of the 2nd and 3rd extensibility groups makes it possible to reduce the tuck gap and distribute it between several areas (neck, shoulder cut, armholes, etc.) and eliminate the shoulder tuck on the back and the chest tuck on the front.

Figure 18. Formation of a knitted product by changing the knitting density of press or openwork weaves

The zones for placing solutions of tucks should be fixed with an edge, tape or adhesive strip along the sections.

The physico-chemical method of shaping has found application in the production of clothing from tubular fabrics made of highly elastic fibers. Forming is carried out in the process of heat treatment.

Features of the calculation and construction of drawings of cut-to-length clothing from knitted fabric. Methods for constructing drawings of details of knitted clothing depend on the extensibility of the fabric and the method of production of knitted products.

The book discusses methods for constructing drawings for a cutting method for obtaining clothes from knitted fabrics of the 1st and 2nd extensibility groups. In the literature, for these purposes, it is proposed to use calculation and graphic methods. One of the best, which allows you to build drawings for standard and individual figures, is the method developed at Ros-ZITLP.

Figure 19. Forming a knitted product by combining different weaves

The implementation of the basic design (BC) of a knitted product, as well as clothes made of fabrics, includes the construction of a basic grid of the drawing and drawing the contours of the main details on it.

When constructing drawings of clothing details from fabrics of the 1st extensibility group, the Ros-ZITLP method can be used without changes and additions. When designing clothes from fabrics of the 2nd extensibility group, the construction is carried out as in the first case. The increments are chosen equal to 2-5 cm. In the finished drawing, the shoulder tuck on the back is divided into three parts, which are distributed between the neck of the back (0.5-0.75 cm), the shoulder cut (1 - 1.5 cm) and the back armhole ( 1-1.5 cm). Planting material in these areas is fixed with an edge.

On a shelf in swing products, the chest tuck is distributed in the following proportions along the bead lines - up to 15% of the solution of the chest tuck, along the neckline - up to 10%, along the armhole - up to 25-30%, along the side cut - up to 40-50% of the solution of the tuck . The landing of the canvas in these areas is fixed with an edge.

A feature of the construction of the construction of a tight-fitting knitted product made of fabric of the 3rd extensibility group is the calculation of the structure, taking into account the percentage of narrowing (Fig. 21).

First, a drawing of the basic structure is constructed with a total increase along the chest line P o6sh = 0. Then the chest tuck is distributed into the fit along the side cut and cut of the armhole, as discussed above.

The next step is to select the percentage of narrowing depending on the type of weave, density, threading and machine class. The following approximate values of the narrowing percentage are recommended: for weaving an eraser 2:2 - 30-40%, 3:3 - up to 50%, 4:4 - more than 50%. Depending on the volume along the shoulder girdle, the part of the structure above the armhole is calculated according to the main narrowing percentage or 5% less than the main one.

Figure 20. Redistribution of the chest tuck in a knitted product

Figure 21. Drawing of the basic design of a knitted product from a fabric of the 3rd extensibility group

The main percentage of the narrowing of the sleeve is 5-10% less than the main percentage of the narrowing of the product. Sleeve roll is calculated 5% less than the main percentage of sleeve narrowing. Next, the most characteristic design points in the drawing are recalculated, taking into account the selected narrowing percentage. For the final construction of the design of the knitwear, taking into account the percentage of narrowing, the following adjustments are made to the resulting drawing: the end of the shoulder section on the back and front is raised by 1.0-2.0 cm, as a result, to maintain the length of the armhole, its depth is raised by the same amount, respectively.

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- Sukharev M.I. Principles of engineering design of clothing: study guide / M.I. Sukharev, A.M. Boytsova - M., 1981.

- Shershneva L.P. Quality of clothing: textbook / L.P. Shershneva - M .: Legprombytizdat, 1985.

Technological process "Production of knitwear"

Because there are many types of knitwear and each type has its own characteristics in manufacturing, we will consider the manufacture of a knitted product using the example of linen knitwear.

The quality of the fabric in the process of knitting throughout the shift is controlled by the knitter and assistant master. The knitter is obliged to keep the machine clean - to clean it every shift.

Floor covering. Chalking the top layer of the flooring, or drawing the contours of the parts to be cut on the top layer of the flooring, is performed in two ways: by patterns and by stencil.

Open the canvases. The cutting of the web is preceded by the operation of laying the web and cutting it into sections.

The laying of the canvas is carried out by machine and manually. The web flooring is cut by mobile cutting machines with straight and circular knives and stationary tape machines.

During this operation, the following requirements must be met:

§ Cloths of fabrics in the flooring should be located freely, without tension and distortions, but also without slack and wrinkles, otherwise the details of the cut may be deformed;
§ The pattern in all flooring sheets must match in length and width, otherwise the symmetry of the pattern is violated in the finished product;
§ The direction of the pile in all flooring sheets must be the same, so that in all details of the finished product the pile is directed in one direction.

Cutting the canvas is a complex and responsible operation. It is possible to ensure high quality cutting when cutting the flooring only if the following requirements are met:

§ High cutting accuracy: deviation from the contours of parts should not exceed cm;
§ The contours of the parts must not be skewed;
§ Good cut quality, i.e. edge frequency of cut parts.

The final product of the cutting room is a set, i.e. a pack of details selected by the canvas article, color, shade and pattern.

Completed packs are stacked in such a way that all small parts of products and applied materials are collected in dozens and neatly tied. Packs are sent to sewing units.

Sewing of knitwear. Sewing processes cover a whole range of operations, which are mainly divided into the following: sewing, wet-heat and auxiliary.

Sewing operations are performed on various types of sewing machines.

In the sewing shops of underwear production, such an organization system as a flow is used. It is characterized by the following main features:

§ The technological process of production of products is divided into separate technologically indivisible operations performed, if necessary, on various equipment;
§ Each performer is assigned a so-called organizational operation, which includes one or more technologically indivisible operations;
§ Workplaces and equipment are located along the technological process of sewing the product;
§ The processed product or a pack of products is transferred to each subsequent operation after the end of this operation;
§ Operations are performed synchronously at all workplaces of the flow in accordance with the established rhythm of the movement of products.

The flow system of organization, depending on the degree of rhythm of work, in turn, is divided into discontinuous flow and continuous flow.

One of the requirements for the manufacture of clothing is the accuracy and high quality of wet-heat treatment, which guarantees the absence of wrinkles, creases and opals of the product.

Auxiliary operations include sewing on labels, sorting products, cleaning finished products from thread ends, and packing products.

Technical control. It is performed at all technological transitions in the manufacture of products from linen and coupons. The tasks of technical control are to check the compliance of the indicators of raw materials and materials entering the enterprise with the indicators of current standards and technical specifications, to check the quality of technological operations and the quality of the fabric and coupons in the production process.