Swinney Todd's choice. Rating of straight razors Quality of straight razors by country and company

The blade width of a straight razor can vary. The most suitable option for a beginner is 5/8 or 6/8 inches. Straight razors of this width are used by most men. This is due to the fact that it is not very convenient to use a narrow or very wide version of the blade at first when shaving. It is quite difficult to immediately find the desired angle of inclination using a caution with a narrow blade. A wide razor will be heavy at first and quite inconvenient for a beginner, since weight and dimensions play a role. After all, if the shaving process is delayed, and you have a heavy razor in your hands, then you will undoubtedly begin to experience inconvenience.

Over time, your hand becomes full and you can experiment with other shapes by choosing a narrower or wider straight razor.

Blade concavity

As a rule, the concavity of the blade is ½ or 1/1 full (the shape of a wedge in the diagram). Despite the high cost of straight razors with a fully concave blade, this is the best option for a beginner to choose. This blade shape provides the most optimal combination of hardness and flexibility.

Blade head

The preferred option for a beginner would be a round head razor. It's harder to cut yourself with a straight razor like this. The most dangerous option is considered to be a straight razor with a square head.

Blade steel

The main blade material for a straight razor is stainless, Damascus or carbon steel.

A Damascus steel blade is considered the most expensive and very high-quality material that combines flexibility and strength. The blade is made of this steel, easy to sharpen, without wearing out for a long time.

Stainless steel is a harder and less flexible blade. But after sharpening, such a razor retains its sharp properties longer, but due to the hardness of the material, it is less flexible and comfortable to shave. This will require some skill.

Carbon steel is the most popular in production and is the most popular when choosing a straight razor. This version of the blade has flexible properties and is easy to straighten. Despite their preference and prevalence, blades of this type have disadvantages. They are displayed as fragility and susceptibility to corrosion.

When choosing a straight razor for the first time, you should give preference to carbon steel. But it’s worth considering that each manufacturer has its own composition and quality of workmanship, which can vary for the better or for the worse.

If funds allow or you need an exclusive gift, choosing a straight razor made of Damascus steel will be the best option of all. By the way, some models will be very exclusive. These include Damascus steel razors from the Boker manufacturer, but their price is quite high and will be about $1000 per model.

Handle material

It all depends on taste and preference. The cheapest ones are made of plastic, the most expensive ones are made of valuable wood, animal bones, etc. The most unusual one that was presented in our online store, with material made from mammoth ivory (Dovo Mammut).

Manufacturers

The choice is wide, but truly high-quality razors are made by the brands Dovo or Boker (Germany), as well as Thiers-Issard (France).

A short video of the production of a straight straight razor, it's interesting, worth watching!

Despite the fact that innovative inventions appear in the fight against excess facial hair among the strong half of humanity, straight razors do not lose their position. Many men who have learned to manage them are not ready to give preference to other methods of facial care, because “caution” guarantees a quality result.

History of the straight razor

The invention of the straight razor is associated with the period BC - the stone scraper was the first to perform this function. Warriors also had their hair shaved off, which prevented the enemy from grabbing them during battle. Thus, the fashion for a shaved face appeared - it began to be considered a sign of a civilized person. Tribes that did not shave their beards began to be considered barbaric.
Over time, the razor changed its shape more than once, but its design remained the same. In hairdressing salons of those times, straight razors were widely used to remove hair; only experienced barbers could handle such a tool. Until the invention of the personal razor was invented in the 18th century, the Frenchman Jean-Jacques Perret added a wooden casing to the sharp blade. After that, the “wary” only changed its design.

Straight razor design

The appearance of this tool is very simple - it is a handle and a blade connected by a rivet. At the same time, the best straight razors in the world can be called a work of art. The handle performs a protective function against damage and loss of blade sharpness. It is made from wood, plastic, as well as horns or bones of animals and others.
The “soul” of the razor is the blade. It consists of a web, a neck and a tail. On the inside of the neck (earl) there is a peppered corrugation, which prevents cuts. The blade is divided into cutting edge, back, head and heel. In the description of the model there is a value in fractions, which means the width of the blade (it is measured in eighths of inches). For a beginner using such a tool, the best choice is a 5/8 safety blade width.
The concavity of the width of the blades is also indicated in fractions: it can be simple, full and with a deep radius groove (1/2 or 1/4, 1/1). The degree of concavity determines the shape of the cutting edge: the larger it is, the easier it is to edit the blade, and the less often sharpening is needed. Any “danger” is corrected over the entire plane, and it is important that the sharpening angle is equal to 12 degrees.

Rating of straight razors

The preferences of men in this area are strictly individual, but there are time-tested manufacturers whose product quality is beyond doubt. These include: Dovo, Thiers-Issard, Timor, Feather. The most famous in the world are the craftsmen from the city of Solingen, who managed to create singing razors. Among many other manufacturers of "opaska", they stood out for their ability to sharpen blades.

When shaving with their tools, a rustling rustle is heard, for which they were called singing - they are the standard of quality for all “fears”. This city gave the world the Timor and Dovo brand. When choosing a straight razor, the manufacturer's rating plays an important role, since leading manufacturers adhere to uncompromising product quality.
The TOP 5 most popular “concerns” look like this:

Choosing a low-quality tool from an unknown manufacturer means throwing money away.

"Opaskami" have to compete with electrical appliances that captured the market in the 70s of the last century, and not only. The surge in fashion for manual shaving tools began in the late 80s of the last century, when Dovo began to position them as a special, stylish and convenient accessory. There is no rush to use a straight razor - a man has to stop and plunge into an almost meditative state.
In addition, hand tools have a number of practical advantages:
the quality of shaving is much superior to the machine;
it is possible to use any cosmetics;
If you have the skill, the procedure happens quickly.

“Opaska” is regarded as a stylish image tool that adds brutality to the image. However, they also have disadvantages - even the best straight razor for men requires certain skills in handling, and you can easily get hurt with it.

conclusions

Purchasing a straight razor from a reputable manufacturer is an excellent choice that will add style and masculinity to a man. A high-quality tool from a well-known brand is easy to use, provides a smooth shave, and can serve its owner for many years. You can buy a razor as a gift - a man will certainly appreciate such care.

Greetings, friends. Today we’ll talk about how to choose a straight razor! Yes, we have both hands on the beard, but there are different types of beards and some parts of the face need to be shaved. A straight razor is a great old school way to do this! If you've never shaved with a straight razor, it's worth finding out how it's done (there will be more articles on this topic), and also getting some tips by visiting. Or, as a last resort, ask your grandfather.

What are the advantages of a straight razor?

• Shaves much better. Many people think that shaving simply cannot get better after they switched from Mach5 to the “old-fashioned method”, but this is deeply misleading. When you shave with a straight razor, your skin will be the same as a baby's bottom! Your wife/girlfriend will notice the difference even if you don't tell her about the new method. So make up your mind, friends, your face will thank you.
• Saving. The initial costs associated with purchasing a straight razor are of course different from purchasing a razor, but once you have the full set, you are set for life. You no longer have to buy replacement cartridges or safety razors for your machine. A straight razor only needs to be trimmed (it's free if you do it yourself!). The only thing you will need to buy is shaving foam.
• Benefits for the environment. If you use replaceable cartridges, then after use, you throw them away along with the packaging. This is plastic that does not rot for centuries. If you use a straight razor, there is much less waste.
• Meditative component. A straight razor has huge benefits psychologically. Shaving with a straight razor requires "slowing down" and focusing on what you are doing at the moment. You calm down and plunge into deep thoughts. While shaving with a straight razor, answers to questions that have been tormenting you for a long time may come.
• You'll feel like a badass. Every morning you bring a very sharp edged weapon to your neck.

Structure of a straight razor

A straight razor consists of two main parts

• Handle (11)
• Blade (1)

They are connected to each other with a rivet (8). The razor handle protects the blade from damage and dullness during storage. The handle consists of two halves. Handles are usually made of wood or plastic, but there are also special, custom-made designs made from bone, horn, ivory or shells.

The blade includes a working blade (3), a neck (6), and a tongue (7). On the working surface you can see the tip-blade (10), the spine-back (4), the heel (5) and the head (2).

The tip runs along the entire working edge of the razor blade. It should always be sharp.

What to look for when choosing a razor

• The blade blade has a concave shape. The radius varies. The shape of the cutting edge depends on the depth of the radius groove. The deeper the groove, the thinner the cutting edge and vice versa. A thin edge is easier to trim and you won't have to sharpen as often as a thick edge razor.

• The quality of the razor depends on the quality of the steel used for production. For straight razors, only high quality steel should be used. Good steel sharpens and stores better.
• Consider the width. The width of the canvas varies and ranges from 10-20cm. The most popular size is 5/8”. A smaller blade is more convenient for shaving in hard-to-reach places.

• There are different shapes of the razor head (round, semicircular, straight). If you are a beginner, it is better to choose a razor with a round head. With a round head there is less chance of cutting yourself. On the other hand, if you need to shave hard-to-reach areas such as hair at the temples, behind the ear, trimming a mustache, etc., a straight edge is much more convenient (but MUCH DANGEROUS).

• Check the sharpness. Take the hair with your thumb and forefinger so that it sticks up and try to cut it with a razor. If it cuts easily, then the razor is sharp.

You can buy a new or used razor.

Ebay is the place where there is a lot of this stuff. Good used razors can also be found in antique stores. Used razors are likely to have rough edges and micro-nicks, so professional sharpening and straightening is necessary (this is vital, as you can cut off excess where you don’t need it). You can also purchase shaving kits (ebay link) that contain everything you need to start shaving.

What else will you need

• Grindstone. If you look at the blade under a microscope you will see teeth that resemble a saw. When the blade becomes dull, the teeth stick out randomly, in different directions. Sharpening the blade returns it to its original appearance.

A whetstone used to sharpen a pocket or kitchen knife will not work. It's too rough (shaving your face, not gutting a fish). You need a stone with a grit of 4000-8000 grit.

Another option is to use a Barber whetstone (ebay link). It is less rough than regular sharpening stones.

Quite often our clients are interested in straight razors with replaceable blades - the so-called shavettes. There is not much detailed information about them on the Internet, nor are there reviews of specific models on YouTube and other resources. In this article we will try to figure out how to choose and use such razors and look at several of their models in different categories.

What is a shavetka and where do they come from?

In general terms, a shavette (from the English “shavette”) or a straight razor with replaceable blades is a razor with a folding design (less often fixed, awkward), which in shape looks like a classic straight razor, but uses replaceable blades for shaving. The term itself was used for Dovo straight razors, but soon caught on and began to be applied to all razors with replaceable blades.

For the first time, such razors were developed for use by barbers in hairdressing salons, in particular, for creating the contours of haircuts: temples, sideburns, nape, etc. In the past, one of the most popular models of razors was the Durham Duplex. Today, this brand still exists in the dog grooming industry. Later, due to the ban on the use of classic straight razors in some countries, razors began to be used for shaving.

Pros and cons of using shavettes for a beginner

"Behind"

• Firstly, using such a razor, you will look very cool, because this is how men shaved for hundreds of years before the invention of modern machines.
• Once you have learned and gotten used to shaving with a shaving blade, it is unlikely that you will want to use a machine with expensive multi-blade cartridges again.
• The shavet, unlike the classic “apozka”, does not need to be sharpened or adjusted on a belt. As soon as the replacement blade becomes dull, just replace it with a new one and you can shave with a sharp razor again.
• One of the most important advantages is noticeably less skin irritation from using a shavette with one blade versus a cartridge with three or five.
• Well, and finally, the last, but one of the most powerful arguments in favor - the only consumables - replacement blades - are incredibly cheap. Compared to buying cartridges like Gillette Mach 3, Fusion or Fusion Proglide, you will save a ton of money.

"Against"

• Learning how to use a shavette takes some time and effort, especially if you are coming from a modern machine. However, the time and effort spent will pay off later.
• Such a razor has no protection against cuts except your own accuracy.
• Compared to T-shaped razor blades, it will be difficult at first to select the required angle at which the razor will be positioned during shaving. Again, this drawback is just a matter of time and experience.

Shavettes and classic straight razors

In general, inexpensive razors can be considered as the entry level in the spectrum of straight razors, and some “top” models as an alternative. However, if the shavetka is purchased as a “practical guide” for shaving with straight razors, you need to take into account that the shavetka and the “caution” will be felt differently, because they must be held at different angles relative to the skin. Most often, straight razors are noticeably heavier than straight razors. And, perhaps, the main difference is the length of the blade, which is longer in a traditional razor.

However, shavettes are more compact and lighter, making them, for example, more convenient to take with you on a trip (even compared to heavy T-shaped machines).

If you're really committed to using a classic straight razor in the future, you might as well start with a well-sharpened, inexpensive traditional razor and strop. But the initial investment (razor, sharpening, belt, etc.) will be noticeably higher.

Let's compare a few basic financial parameters of both types of razors.

Shavetka	Straight razor
A small financial investment (the blade itself and the blades for it).	Requires significant initial financial costs when purchasing (razor, sharpening, belt).
Requires periodic purchase of new blades and their replacement every 5-7 days, but completely pays for itself in comparison with modern machines.	It only requires sharpening once a year (the cost of the service is about $10), which completely pays for itself (if used by an experienced user) even in comparison with cheap replacement blades.
Inexpensive models are usually used for several years, during which time they may simply become boring.	With proper care, it can be inherited by grandchildren.
“Sharpening” is incredibly simple - just change the blade.	Sharpening requires a lot of experience or should be done by a professional.
Of course, it does not require adjustments on the belt, only replacement of the blades.	Straightening on a belt is highly recommended as it prolongs the life of the blade, but requires certain skills.

Types of blades and choice of blades for them

Shavettes can be divided into three main types depending on the blades used. The first is razors that use the usual double-sided blades familiar to everyone. The second is shavettes, which use both regular blades and special elongated ones (their design allows the installation of both types); these are German Dovo razors. And finally, the third type - perhaps the most advanced shavettes - are razors from the Japanese manufacturer Feather, which use special long blades from the same manufacturer. All straight razors with replaceable blades are available in the corresponding section, but now let's look at each type, the pros and cons of some models separately.

Shavettes on standard blades

These are the simplest razors in terms of consumables. You can take any classic blade and, breaking it into two parts and inserting it into the holder, start shaving.

One of the most popular razor models due to their excellent price-quality ratio are Parker razor blades - real “workhorses”, often used not only for personal use, but also in barbershops.

Models 31R, 33R and 34R have a special opening mechanism for installing blades, while models PTW and PTB are equipped with a retractable design where the blade is attached. It is worth noting that all Parker razors are made of stainless steel, which is undoubtedly an advantage.

Which blade to choose? A very individual parameter to give a definite answer. If you're a beginner, start with our custom blade set. In it you will find 5-10 blades of all popular brands and you can choose the one that suits you and enjoys using.

For razors of this type, the blade must be divided in half into two parts without removing it from the envelope (to avoid accidentally cutting your fingers, do not hold the tip of the blade). Then insert one half into the shaver mount, securing it using the appropriate razor mechanism. The razor is ready for use.

Shavettes on elongated blades

When talking about such razors, we, of course, mean the classic among shavettes - the Dovo Shavette. Their main advantage is the ability to use both regular blades and special long Dovo blades (they allow you to shave a larger area of ​​stubble at once).

In addition, the razor is compact in size and light weight, making it maneuverable and easy to use. Dovo shaver blades also have a small plastic tip to prevent accidental cuts from the edge of the razor.

Blade insertion couldn't be easier - the razor has plastic holders for regular and long blades, which are inserted into the body. The blade also needs to be split in half first.

However, the light weight and compactness of the razor can be a disadvantage, especially for those with large palms.
In general, the Dovo razor has many more advantages. Especially when you consider that by purchasing this shaver and hundreds of blades, you will provide yourself with a comfortable shave for about a couple of years.

Feather Shavettes

Well, and finally, the standard among straight razors with replaceable blades is the Artist Club SS series razors from the Japanese manufacturer Feather, which has a long history. They are available in two styles: traditional folding and unusual “Japanese” - the blade and handle are one piece. They exclusively use blades from the same manufacturer, of which there are several options.

For example, Soft Guard blades, due to their softness, are recommended for those with sensitive skin. Light Blade is universal, and ProGuard can handle even the thickest and toughest stubble.

The initially relatively high price is compensated by the highest quality of the blades. They are superbly sharpened, each one lasts longer than regular blades (about 10-15 uses per blade), and they shave incredibly close. In addition, they have a very comfortable length for shaving. The blades are packaged in special containers that make them easy to install into razor holders.

Separately, it is worth noting the handles of both versions of Feather shavettes. The “Japanese” version has a handle made of a pleasant rubberized material, due to which it fits perfectly in the hand and does not slip. In the classic version, the handle has a special “monkey tail” design, which has excellent ergonomics.

How often should blades be changed?

One of the first questions asked by buyers not only of razors, but also of safety razors. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give an exact answer. Those with thicker stubble and coarser hairs will need to change the blade more often than those with softer bristles.

Typically, the average is 3-5 uses of one standard blade. Everything is banal: the blade should be changed as soon as there is a feeling that it is becoming dull. A dull blade will begin to “rip off” hairs and cause skin irritation.

Shavette shaving, which uses one blade versus three or five in Gillette, in itself reduces irritation, since the latter damage the skin three to five times more. But you need to remember that dull blades are the best friend of irritation, that is, changing the blade on time is very important.

If you steam your skin and stubble well with hot water before shaving, and also use preshave, this will extend the life of the blade by a couple of uses. As a result, some people like to change the blade after every shave, while others can use one 10 or more times. So, as you can see, this is a very individual parameter.

Using Shavetka: Before You Start

At first, shaving with a shaving blade may seem like a somewhat complicated process. You need to be extremely careful, but the result is probably the closest shave of your life. Now let's look at a few steps to prepare for shaving with a shavet.

Step 1. Don't ignore the preshare.

• Experienced adherents of classic shaving will certainly advise any beginner to thoroughly steam the stubble with a hot towel. However, a hot shower or at least washing with hot water before shaving should also be enough.
• The next step is often ignored when shaving with other types of razors, but it is important especially if you have hard and thick stubble - use a preshave. This could be a special cream or oil before shaving.
• The product should be applied to the skin approximately 3-5 minutes before shaving and not rinsed off.
• The preshave helps soften the stubble, and also protects the skin from irritation and makes it more elastic.
• Remember that you will be shaving with an extremely sharp blade, so protection will be a plus.

Step 2: Wash with hot water. Before you start shaving, do not forget to apply hot water directly to the stubble.

Step 3. Prepare shaving foam.

• Among the many means for making foam, the best would be soap or shaving cream, which will not irritate the skin, but rather protect and nourish it. This will require a shaving brush.
• However, if using a brush seems a little cumbersome at first, try starting with a cream that does not require this tool to make foam.
• Cheaper foams or gels (such as Gillette) are not recommended due to their not very natural composition, which can negatively affect the skin if it comes into contact with enlarged pores.

Step 4. You will need a mirror, an intimate setting and more time.

• For the first shaving with a shavet, reserve at least 25-30 minutes of free time.
• In the future, as you hone your shaving skills with such a razor, the procedure time will be significantly reduced.
• It is advisable to make sure that you will not be suddenly disturbed so as not to accidentally cut yourself.

How to shave with a shavet: technique

So it's time for your first shave with your new razor, and here are some guidelines on basic technique. We hope you took advantage of all our tips for preparing for the shaving process.

First of all, you'll probably cut yourself the first time. The cut probably won't be painful since a very sharp blade will be used. But to be prepared for such a development of events and to prevent bleeding, stock up on one of the universal remedies for cuts: gel or classic alum. Both remedies will help not only stop the bleeding in a few seconds, but also speed up the healing of the cut.

So, your foam is ready and has already been applied to your face - start shaving from your sideburns. Hold the razor very lightly at an angle of approximately 30° to the skin. The greater the angle, the greater the chance of cutting yourself.

Don't squeeze the razor too hard with your fingers. The razor should shave freely. Start at the top, working your way down with smooth, easy movements. The cheeks are the easiest part because this area of ​​the face is flat and comparatively large in area compared to other parts. Follow the cheek down to the chin.

You need to be careful when shaving the area above the upper lip, as the hair here is especially coarse. You need to shave using small, light strokes from top to bottom. If you shave here against the hair growth, you can cut your nose. The area under the lower lip is also shaved very carefully and without sudden movements, so as not to cut the lip.

The area from the bottom of the chin down the neck is shaved in turn on both sides of the Adam's apple, starting from the chin. The razor is drawn from top to bottom, on the left side of the Adam's apple. On the Adam's apple itself, especially if it protrudes strongly, you need to shave as carefully as possible, pulling the skin from it to the side. The hair along the lower edge of the jaw is shaved from the chin towards the ear, pulling back the skin.

Very often, hair in the lower part of the neck grows from the bottom up. In such cases, you should shave from top to bottom until the point where the hair takes the opposite direction, and shave the rest of the neck from bottom to top.

Many people prefer shaving in two passes. This means that after you shave your face the first time, the foam is reapplied and you shave again. The second pass will be more vigorous, but you will definitely get rid of the remaining hair if one time was not enough. This method is especially good if you have thick stubble or haven't shaved in a few days.

Skin tension also helps in the shaving process, since stretched skin is simply easier to shave. The area around the mouth is perhaps the most difficult area to shave, as the chance of cutting yourself is quite high here. Be patient, stretch the skin slightly before each stroke of the razor, and use small strokes to carefully shave off chin stubble and mustache. Similarly, and with the same care, you need to shave the hair on your throat.

Shavet shaving: how to avoid cuts and irritation

Irritation after shaving often appears as small redness (pimples) on the skin of the throat or cheeks. They look terrible, but they feel even worse and bring nothing but suffering with their itching for several days.

They can also appear when shaving with a shaver. If you, moreover, are the happy owner of sensitive skin, we recommend studying this topic. For everyone else, here are some tips to avoid the problem.

Good preparation is the key to success.

• Make sure your razor is clean before shaving. Remember to rinse it well under hot water after each shave.
• Before each shave, use a hot towel, shower, or wash your face with hot water.
• Use pre-shave products (creams or oils).
• You should not shave in the shower to avoid accidentally cutting yourself.

Change blades promptly. Dull blades are one of the main causes of skin irritation.

Use a clean towel and a good aftershave.

• Use a separate, clean towel for your face to prevent bacteria from towels such as hand or body towels from getting into your open pores after shaving.
• After you've washed your face with cool water and dried your face with a towel, use a good aftershave depending on your skin type.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that shavettes were invented as a tool with replaceable blades for each client for correcting haircuts in barber shops, these razors are now quite popular for personal shaving.

• They will be an excellent alternative for those men who would like to try traditional straight shaving, but do not want to bother with straightening and sharpening a classic razor.
• The use of a shaver is recommended for those who constantly experience irritation when shaving with modern three- or five-blade razors.
• And also for those who want to save on shaving consumables without sacrificing quality, because replacement blades cost pennies compared to cartridges.
• Shavettes are convenient for traveling due to their lightness, compactness and the absence of the need to take a belt with you for straightening (if you use a classic straight razor).

Remember: learning to use a shavet, like a regular “caution”, will take some time and accuracy. But the result will definitely justify expectations and costs, because shaving will be a pleasure.

When the quality of shaving with a conventional cassette razor or electric razor is no longer satisfactory, the transition to classic shaving begins with the choice of the main tool. What is better to shave - a straight razor, a T-shaped razor or a shaver?

Straight razor

This oldest type of razor has existed since ancient times: the Romans shaved with similar razors. In the middle of the twentieth century, straight razors finally gave way to T-shaped razors, which, in contrast to the first, were called “safety”. Today, straight or blade razors represent aesthetics and a special chic of shaving. They are chosen by true fans of perfectly smooth skin and hedonists who enjoy the process of caring for and shaving with a razor.

A straight razor has undeniable advantages that other types of razors have not yet been able to offer:

Durability

Fear is an investment for decades to come. If you have a high-quality blade at your disposal and you know how to care for it, you won’t have to look for something better: the cleanliness of the shave, the feel of the process and the lack of irritation after it will depend only on your technique. And a little bit of cosmetics.

Closer shave and longer lasting results

A correctly and sharply sharpened razor cuts hair in one movement, without damaging the skin at all and without causing irritation: it is important that it is the hair that is cut, and the skin serves only as a guide for the movement of the blade. If your shaving technique is already established, then the hair is cut closer to the root than with shaving with any other tool, which gives the feeling that the hair is growing more slowly. No, they don't grow slower, but they do grow longer because you cut them lower.

Suitable for hair of any length

Unlike a T-bar or cassette trimmer, which don't handle long stubble very well, the guard doesn't require you to trim your beard first. It can transform a rustic bearded man into a beardless English gentleman in one pass.

A little about the disadvantages of straight razors

How did it happen that with all these advantages, the straight razor lost popularity to safety razors? First of all, the rhythm of a man’s life has changed. Remember: shaving used to be an event for which a man went to the barber (or the barber went to a rich client). The 20th century brought a previously unfamiliar dynamism into a man’s life. And when Gillette came up with safety razors at the turn of the century, reality itself pushed them into the market: in the everyday life of the First World War, men were taught to shave with T-razors. A trip to the barber has been replaced by a quick shave at home, and at home straight razors are not always convenient and justified due to several of their shortcomings, which, however, are not considered such among true fans:

Straight razor is expensive

A good shave, which makes shaving comfortable, costs about 10 times more than a T-shaped razor of the same brand. The most inexpensive models from Dovo, the most popular and affordable manufacturer of straight razors these days, cost from 120 euros. Razors made using Damascus steel technology start from 1000 euros. Additionally, a straight razor is traditionally used with a sharpener, a strop, and a strop. For on-the-go work in a salon, the high price of a razor and components is not a critical factor, but for home use it does not always seem justified.

A straight razor is dangerous

A barber is a professional who shaves a dozen men's faces every day. It is difficult to achieve the same precise, precise movements at home; a straight razor requires serious shaving skills. But the risk of cutting yourself is not its only danger. The blade of a straight razor must be very sharp at all times. Therefore, if there is someone in the house other than you, you need to store the razor in a place inaccessible to the rest of the household.

Straight razor is difficult to care for

The razor is very difficult to handle: it needs to be wiped only with a soft cloth, without touching the edge; Under no circumstances should you touch the tip with your fingers, paper, or cloth; cannot be stored in high humidity, and poorly wiped blades are susceptible to corrosion; with imperfect sharpening techniques, the cutting edge quickly becomes unusable; Only special sharpeners can sharpen a razor, and in no case knife sharpeners; etc.

A straight razor cannot be carried in hand luggage

Yes, a blade razor must be checked in luggage on an airplane. Cold steel after all. During the trip you will have to choose another razor option.

There is a myth circulating on the Internet that there are straight razors with replaceable blades. In fact, we are talking about shavets, which we will talk about below. Remember: there are no straight razor blades. If the blade of your razor has become unusable and cannot be edited, then, unfortunately, you will have to buy a new razor.

Straight razors have their fans for their incomparable atmosphere and shaving quality. If you decide to buy a straight razor, but don’t want to delve into the details, then choose European brands: Dovo-Solingen, Thiers-Issard, Muehle. Avoid Chinese and any razors cheaper than 120 euros: due to the poor build quality, the tool may be inconvenient to use (the handle dangles, non-ergonomic shape, etc.), and due to the poor quality of the metal, the blade may become dull even after the first shave. Very often, Chinese blades cannot be sharpened at all and are literally disposable.

T-shaped machine

The T-shaped razor is the forerunner of the modern cassette razors that most men use these days. It was the T-razor, called the “safety razor,” that made the blade razor “dangerous.” The essence of the invention is that the blade is hidden under the massive head of the machine, so that the risk of cutting yourself is minimal. A dull blade is simply replaced with a new one and does not require sharpening. For those who are switching from a cassette razor to traditional shaving, a T-bar razor is often the best solution.

Low price of t-shavers and long service life

The price of high-quality T-shaped machines is 2-3 times lower than the price of a safe one. The €40 Muehle machine is as durable as a safety net and will last as long as you want. You are more likely to want something new than for something to happen to it. The most common reason why men decide to buy a new T-bar machine when they already have one is to upgrade to a more aggressive machine that can produce cleaner results. However, even in such a case, it is possible to buy one T-shaped razor for life: there are adjustable machines, the aggressiveness of which you adjust yourself, along with the growth of your experience.

T-shaped razor is easy to maintain

The machine does not require manipulation with the belt, and for sharpening you do not need to look for a specialist who may not be in your city. Dull blades are simply replaced, and the machine itself just needs to be washed and dried after each shave. The blades themselves for T-shaped machines cost several rubles apiece.

The classic shaving machine is safe to use

It's harder to cut yourself with a T-blade than with a straight razor or straight razor. The biggest risk is cutting yourself with used blades if you don't take care of disposing of them. There are special containers for blades for this purpose, and their price is incomparable with the safety they provide to children and pets in your home.

Less irritation compared to a cassette machine.

The shaving process itself does not require pressure from the machine on the skin; the machine moves due to its own weight, so with the correct technique you do not damage the epidermis, but only cut off hair. That is why the T-shaped machine, like a straight razor, has only one shaving blade: you don’t need 5 blades to shave hair. You need one, but a sharp one that shaves even coarse hair in 1-2 passes. And a few more secrets to combat irritation.

The T-razor shaves better than a cassette razor, but a little worse than a straight razor - and this is the main complaint against it from fans of straight shaving. The quality of shaving can vary greatly depending on the machine and its blades. The machine must be heavy enough to require no pressure on the skin, and durable enough to last a long time. The quality of the assembly affects the feeling during the process and the result of shaving: a loose, poorly secured head is both inconvenient to use and does not have the best effect on the quality of the shave. Historically, the best T-bar machines are made in Europe. Razors from the German companies Muehle and Dovo (Merkur) are considered reference standards; the machines of these brands can be taken without fear. Only avoid suspiciously low prices to avoid getting a fake.

Shavetka

Many people believe that the shavet is a type of straight razor. Copywriters on pseudo-expert men's sites boldly claim that this is a "straight razor with replaceable blades" - but this is not so. The chavette (or shavette) razor requires a completely different technique.

This is a kind of hybrid of a straight razor and a T-shaped machine: the shape is a typical safety razor, but with replaceable blades. The blades can be elongated, which makes the cutter as similar as possible to a safety knife, or standard, as in T-shaped machines. Shavetka is most common among barbers, who, for hygienic reasons, are prohibited from using a full-fledged blade razor with a non-replaceable blade for clients. Shavet shaves cleanly, allows you to control the contour, avoid wrinkles and moles and reach hard-to-reach areas. At the same time, replaceable blades eliminate any concerns about hygiene.

Shavetka is very easy to care for

At home, it does not require editing or disinfection. All maintenance consists of washing and changing the blades. And shavetka, unlike opaska, can be taken in hand luggage on an airplane.

Shavets are relatively inexpensive

Shavetka is maneuverable and easy to use

It is easy to shave your cheeks and temples, shape your mustache and contour your beard. Shavette is often used after the T-bar, finishing the missed areas under the nose, on the neck and near the ears.

Adherents of straight razors often treat shavets with disdain (as well as t-shkas and any other tools). They are right that shavet should not be confused with apprehension. It requires a different technique, and when switching from shavetka to danger or vice versa, you will have to relearn. “Trying” on the shavets to get an idea of ​​the dangers will not work.

At the same time, the shavets have their fans. They are indispensable in barbershops: in a matter of minutes, the barber decorates his beard and temples with a shavet. And perhaps this is the only razor that is comfortable for bearded men.

For bearded men who need to style their beard at home, the best option is shavetka.