MK - we hide the lock and neck seam on a product with a collar. Master class: sewing a fleece suit Do-it-yourself fleece collar
Girls, hello everyone!
I promised - I deliver! I thought for a long time about what to call this “creation”... The name turned out to be long, but it reflects the essence of what is happening. Let me make a reservation right away: I do not pretend to be the truth, and I do not know how this unit is processed in production. I suspect there is an easier and faster way (by the way, please tell me if anyone knows!). I'll just show you how I did it. Perhaps this information will be useful to someone else.
So, let's go ;)
We have: product of the shoulder group with a stand-up collar and a zipper to the very top of the collar.
We want: so that the upper ends of the zipper look aesthetically pleasing when the collar, for example, is unbuttoned. And we want to hide the seam of attaching the collar to the product. In a word - so that everything from the inside out is as beautiful as the outside. The first few points are without photos (I realized it too late), but I think everything is clear even without pictures.
1. We strengthen the collar with double tape (it can be external, it can be internal, it doesn’t matter). In my example, the outer collar is made of fleece, the inner one is made of velor, and in order to somehow bring them closer in density to each other, I duplicated the inner collar, velor. In Olympic sweatshirts, the outer collar was duplicated.
2. We connect the outer and inner collar along the upper edge (sew by machine).
3. Almost all of my products are made of knitwear, and in order to evenly sew a zipper into a knitted sweatshirt/jacket/etc., we definitely need to strengthen the middle sections of the shelves. Along the cut we glue a strip of thread stitching (or a strip of thread stitching interlining, cut off along threads).
4. We prepare the binding with which we will close the neck seam. It can also be ready-made braid - for example, keeper tape. For those who don’t have a kipper, cut off a strip of knitwear, matching or contrasting. We use a cotton cooler or a s/l cooler, the thinner it is, the better. Cut better across the lobar
(but if it doesn’t work out, then you can do it by share).
We cut out a strip with a length = 0.75-0.85 of the length of the neck (depending on the stretchability of the fabric of this strip) and a width of 3.3-3.5 cm (depending on the thickness of the main fabric).
Iron it in half lengthwise.
5. Now, carefully, we begin to connect everything.
We take the collar (the outer and inner collars are sewn along the top edge), apply it to the neck - with the outer collar to the front side of the product, pin it in several places.
6. Take our striped tape, folded in half, apply it and pin it to the collar, stretching it a little.
7. We retreat from the edge about 6-7-8 cm (the higher the stand, the more) and join on this segment using an overlocker:
- internal collar - with trim:
- external collar - with the neck of the product:
9. We sweep the halves of the zippers up to the very top of the outer collar (shorten the zipper in the process, if necessary):
Here's the same thing, a slightly different angle, pay attention to the direction of the allowances and the joining of the stitching line for the outer and inner collars:
11. Sew the zipper on the machine:
12. Cut off the top corners, turn the collar inside out, and straighten it. We admire how beautifully our lightning is hidden :))
13. We manually connect the collars to each other on the segment where they are separate from each other:
14. Bend the binding down and baste it onto the product. The stitching seam for the collar is hidden underneath:
15. Sew the binding on a simple machine. You can use a stitcher, but then you need to sew along the front side, guided only by the basting.
I made changes to the pants pattern:
- At the bottom of the legs I removed the cuffs, adding length accordingly.
- I widened the legs at the bottom.
- I made the belt one-piece from the main fabric.
Seam allowances.
I sewed the parts on an overlocker, so I made seam allowances for the width of the overlock seam of 0.7 cm.
- for processing a zipper - 1.5 cm;
- for the hem of the sleeves, the bottom of the sweatshirt and the bottom of the legs - 2 cm;
- on the waistband of the pants - 2.5 cm.
Overlock is best suited for sewing knitwear. If you don't have an overlocker, you can use an elastic stitch for knitwear or a narrow zigzag stitch. The edges of fleece products do not need to be processed; fleece is not a “free-flowing” material.
Step 1. Cut out the details.
Step 2. Sew down the yellow and green parts of the front, back and sleeve halves. We connect the sleeves with the front halves and the back. Attention: do not mix up the sleeves! We sew the sleeves along the raglan lines.
Step 3. Iron the seams. Attention: the iron should not be too hot, otherwise the fleece will stick to the iron!
Step 4. Connect the side seams and sleeves and sew with one line.
Step 5. Cut out the collar. The collar consists of 2 rectangles, the lengths of which are equal to the length of the neck of the finished product, the width of the lower collar (made of yellow fleece) is 9 cm, excluding seam allowances, the upper collar (made of green fleece) is 10 cm, excluding seam allowances. When finished, the collar width is approximately 9.5 cm.
Step 6. Sew the top and bottom collars along one long side.
Step 7. Apply the collar to the neck of the product, aligning the front side of the sweatshirt with the front side of the top (yellow) collar. We pin or baste, then grind. The bottom edge of the lower (green) collar does not need to be overlaid, but I overlaid it just in case.
Step 8. Measure out the zipper. We retreat 2 cm from the bottom - this is the lower limit of the zipper location. The end of the top (yellow) collar is the top border. My zipper was longer, so I had to cut it off.
Step 9. Baste the hem at the bottom.
Step 10. We baste the zipper, applying it to the very edge.
Step 11. We sew the zipper, and the seam should be laid at a distance of approximately 2 mm from the teeth.
Step 12. Unscrew the clasp and sew out the edge, bend the lower (green) collar and baste it on the sides to the clasp. At this stage, it is advisable to install eyelets on the hole for the cord at the bottom of the sweatshirt (but I did not do this, so then I had to pick up the running seam and install the eyelets).
Step 13. Baste the top of the collar, baste the bottom of the collar to the neckline.
Step 14. Iron all running seams.
Step 15. Place a seam near the zipper. Sew off the top of the collar. Watch the color of the threads: we sew green fleece with green threads, yellow fleece with yellow threads, it is better to leave the bottom thread in the machine green.
Step 16. We sew a seam along the neckline, thereby securing the collar.
Step 17. At this stage I installed eyelets, supports, as I already said, running seams. It is more convenient, of course, to do this earlier.
For a men's sweatshirt in sizes 60-62, I chose double-sided fleece (2.0 m wide 1.45 m).
Needles for knitted and stretch fabrics. For stitching thin parts, for processing and sewing on a pocket - thicker needles from the same series.
It is very important to use high-quality threads, otherwise when laying an elastic stitch, tangling and thread breaks may occur. 
When sewing this model I used pattern mod. 126 No. 1 2010
I marked the cut lines on the pattern. 
I transferred the pattern to fabric without allowances along the side seams of the shelves, back and sides of the shelves and back, as well as on the sleeves. I left allowances only at the bottom of the product and sleeves - 4 cm, along the neckline, armhole, sleeve cap and collar - 1.5 cm. 
The side parts of the shelves, back and rearranged in a mirror image. 
On the Brother Star 37S sewing machine I chose stitch number 29. 
I ground the seams, combining them into a joint. I sewed the raised seams on the shelves and back in this way. 
Finish patch pocket with zipper. We process the entrance to the pocket with a facing, placing the facing facing to the front side of the pocket. Stitch along the intended line of entry into the pocket, reducing the stitching to 1-1.5 mm in the corners. Make a neat cut between the lines, diagonally towards the corners. Turn the facing inside out and sew cleanly. 
Attach a zipper to the inside of the pocket and stitch. 
On the shelves, make a line for matching the pocket, apply the pocket and stitch. 
Sew the shoulder sections and topstitch with decorative stitching.
View from the reverse side. Front view. 
Continued in the second part of the master class.
I present to you another Master Class on felting a vest.
Author of the master class on felting "Miracle winter: a silver fairy tale. Felting a vest with carding and a fleece collar" Lyubov Voronina.
Usually they say: “prepare the sleigh in the summer” - that’s what we did. In August, I managed to go to Belarus for one week to visit my wonderful friend Olya. Under her guidance and with her help, I got a pair of magical silver felt boots. We also conducted experiments on using carding in clothes, and I brought this idea home. I hope you appreciate it too.
To complement the felt boots ensemble, we will make a felted vest with the addition of carding and a separate, luxurious fleece collar.
We will need: and (I wrote down the approximate consumption in the table at the end of the master class), 200 grams of Shetland fleece, 40 grams of viscose and lace for decoration.
Let's take the pattern of a vest with a classic shawl collar as a basis.
It should be noted that the final shrinkage of a collar with fleece is less than the shrinkage of a vest; Therefore, before starting work, measure the expected length of the collar and multiply by a factor of 1.25 (which corresponds to 20% shrinkage of the wool) - this will be enough.
Let's take care of the collar first; We lay out the viscose on the wrong side in clouds.
Wet with warm soapy solution.
We lay out the fur in two layers according to the pattern; We wet it, rub it through the mesh, form the edges - prepare the surface for work.
We separate the fleece into individual curls and begin to lay it out along the edge of the collar.
Cut a blocker 2-3 cm wide from the additional collar piece.
We lay out the next row of curls with their ends on top of the blocker, and moisten the roots and rub them through the mesh.
We repeat these steps until the free field of the collar ends.
So, the fleece layout is finished and the collar is ready for further action.
Turn over and remove the template.
It is better to rub the collar from the inside out until the fleece fibers appear on the wrong side - this way the curls will be less tangled with each other.
Let's roll around for a bit.
When the curls are firmly in place, you can remove the blockers.
We continue to fall away; We try to lift the curls so that they do not fall against the base.
Align the inner edge, squeeze, rinse...
The collar is ready: put it aside and proceed to the vest.
We spread the viscose into clouds and moisten it with warm water.
We lay out the fur in two thin layers: horizontal and vertical.
We wet and rub the base.
We take thin clouds of carding and stretch them into an even layer on the surface.
Wet it with soapy water and rub it through the mesh.
Add lace along the waistline.
We turn the back part over and proceed to laying out the shelf in the same way.
Align the open edges and fold in the seam allowances.
We arrange the carding into clouds; moisten and rub through the mesh.
We pay special attention to the bend areas and grind them into a plane.
Prepare the second shelf in the same way.
Rub it in thoroughly and remove the vest from the template.
We felt the vest until ready for the first fitting; similar to previous lessons (rolling in different directions, strengthening open edges, etc.)
After trying on, we determine the accents that should be paid special attention to, finish the work and leave it to dry on a hanger or mannequin.
Final finishing: sew loops onto the collar, and buttons on braid onto the neck of the vest.
We had to wait a long time for a snowy winter, but finally it came to our region.