Dental beauty and health 

How to sew a winter jacket. How to sew a winter park with your own hands How to sew a women's winter park

You will need

  • - pattern;
  • - scissors;
  • - sewing machine;
  • - threads and needles;
  • - jacket fabric;
  • - insulation;
  • - lining;
  • - a strip of fur;
  • - tight edging;
  • - elastic cord with ferrules;
  • - buttons and tongs (or press) for riveting them;
  • - three detachable zippers.

Instructions

Choose a pattern that is simple and practical. You can take a ready-made pattern from the sewing manual as a basis, or use old clothes by ripping them along the inner seam. Carefully calculate the size, not forgetting about the freedom of fitting - after all, you will be putting on the product on a thick sweater.

It is recommended to make the following cut details: - large: left and right shelves; back; a pair of shelf yokes; back yoke; left and right sleeves; hood (middle, sides and edging); - small (they can be cut out of the remnants of the material): patch pockets; double stand-up collar; valves on the hood and sleeves; double zipper strip; a pair of piping on the sleeves and hem. Clothes made from these details can be made for a child and an adult of any gender; it is enough to adjust the length, color and, if necessary, make a drawstring at the waist.

Find the right materials for your winter jacket. You will need a front and backing material. A cut of dense polyester is good as an upper fabric; for the lining (including the lower collar), you can take a fleece cloth. Depending on the desired thickness of the codend, select the number of layers of sealant. It is good to decorate the hood with an edging made of a strip of natural or artificial fur.

Cut out the details of the cut - the "face" of the jacket, the lining and the warm filling. Next, you need to put one layer of insulation on each cut off part and sew it with a regular horizontal line with long stitches. Attach other warm layers (from two to four) with a coarse mesh to the lining.

Sew the pockets to the jacket. To do this, scribble leaves to the seamy side of the burlap. For volume, you can put a thin layer of insulation inside the drowning leaf. Sew both parts of the patch pocket to the front of the product; you can also add a tight piping along the seam for a more professional look. Use it to process the lower edge of the sleeves.

Make the main joining seams of the product and proceed with small but important details. To keep the jacket well protected from the wind, sew on the flaps on the hood and sleeves. Rivet metal buttons on them. If you do not have a special punch for rivets and eyelets, buy special pliers from the sewing accessories department to install such fasteners.

Work carefully: make a hole in the jacket fabric with a smaller diameter than the button; press down the parts of the fittings exactly and try not to damage the front part. To do this, before pressing the button, you can apply a piece of thin rubber (for example, a sanitary gasket).

Sew a split zip lock onto


Gathered for a party in a dress, and there are clouds outside the window? There is a way out - long knitted leggings, rubber boots and a parka! A striped pullover also goes well with a parka, while black, white and gray trousers complete the perfect set for changeable weather.

You will need:

  • canvas 150 cm wide: dim. 34/36 - 3.20 m, dim. 38/40 - 3.25 m, dim. 42/44 -
  • 3.30 m
  • non-woven fabric G 785 0.20 m, width 0.90 m
  • split zip, length 65 cm (for sizes 34/36 and 38/40, the zipper must be shortened)
  • cord length: dim. 34/36 - 4.80 m, dim. 38/40 - 5.00 m, dim. 42/44 - 5.20 m
  • Velcro contact tape 0.25 m 2 cm wide
  • twill tape 0.10 m 2 cm wide
  • 2 piercing blocks with a diameter of 8 mm
  • 4 half rings 1.5 cm wide
  • 2 rivets
  • sewing and buttonhole threads.

Moreover:

  • silk paper for transferring patterns from a sheet of patterns
  • pencil
  • scissors for paper
  • tape measure
  • tailor's pins
  • tailor's chalk
  • "Magic" tailor's chalk
  • glue stick
  • scissors for cutting and small scissors for needlework
  • burda copy paper and copy wheel for pattern transfer
  • sewing machine needle and hand sewing needle.
Back length approx. 82 cm. Recommended fabrics: conformable jacket fabrics.

Pattern parks

Place the silk paper over the pattern sheet and pin down. Translate the details of the pattern of your size along the corresponding contour lines and do not forget about the markings and inscriptions. Peel off the burlap pockets from the part 21: 1 time up to the sewing line of the flap and 1 time up to the sewing line of the leaflet. For leaflets (a), edging bias strings (b, c), cuffs (d) and tabs (e, f), details of the paper pattern are not given. They should be drawn directly onto the fabric. Dimensions including allowances are indicated in paragraph 2.

Layout plan

The layout plan shows how to arrange the pieces of the paper pattern on the fabric.
21 Shelf 2x
Burlap pocket (large and small) 2x
22 Backrest 2x
23 Sleeve 2x
24 Front part of the hood 2x
25 Side part of the hood 2x
26 Hood back with 2x fold
27 Visor 2x
28 Valve 2x
29 Podbort 2x
30 Edging of the bottom of the shelves 2x
31 Trim at the bottom of the back 2x

Canvas width 150 cm, dimensions 34 / 36-42 / 44

Step 1: cut




Fold the fabric in half lengthways, right side in. Place the details of the paper pattern on the fabric, align the middle of part 26 with the fold, and pin. Using a ruler and tailor's chalk, mark the seam allowances and 1.5 cm cuts around the pieces of the paper pattern.

Step 2: sketch out the remaining details




a) 2 facing pockets measuring 22 x 4 cm;
b) overstitching of the neck of the back (cutting along the slant) measuring 25 x 4 cm;
c) piping for the top drawstring 6 cm wide and total length: dim. 34/36 - 105 cm, dim. 38/40 - 110 cm, dim. 42/44 - 114 cm;
d) 2 cuffs, length: d. 34/36 - 36 cm, dim. 38/40 - 39 cm, dim. 42/44 - 41 cm and 4 cm wide, ready-made 2 cm;
e) 2 straps 9 cm long and
f) 2 straps 7 cm long and 3 cm wide, ready-made 1.5 cm.

Cut out the details.

Step 3: non-woven g 785




Fold the gasket in half lengthwise with the adhesive side inward. Place paper pattern pieces 27 and 28 and pin. Draw 1.5 cm wide allowances around the parts of the paper pattern. Cut out the parts. Press the gasket on the wrong side of the corresponding cut parts by setting the temperature regulator of the iron to silk mode and holding it in one place for approx. 8 seconds. To reinforce the pockets, cut out two strips of gasket, 22 x 4 cm, and press on the wrong side before attaching the leaf and flaps over the pocket lines.

Step 4: seam lines and markings




Split the parts duplicated by the gasket with the right sides. Pin the pieces of the paper pattern. The contours of all the details of the pattern (seam and bottom lines), as well as the entire
transfer the markings, with the exception of the line thread lines, onto the fabric using a copy wheel and burda carbon paper (see detailed instructions on the paper package). Flap seam lines, pocket seam seam lines, fold lines and alignment lines, as well as stitch lines for sewing the upper drawstring and Velcro fasteners to the right side of the cut details
large basting stitches.

Step 5: valves




Split one duplicate and non-duplicated spacer piece of each
valve facing sides. Stitch the cuts, leaving the grind cuts open. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, obliquely at the corners. Unscrew the valves. Press the edges and sew to the edge with buttonhole threads. From a part of the Velcro contact tape with a chain surface, cut 2 pieces of 3 cm long and fix with a glue stick on the inside of each flap, stitch, laying lines on the outside of the flap along the markings. Set the valves aside.

Step 6: sew on pockets and flaps




Fold the facing of the pocket (a) in half lengthwise with the wrong side inward, press it on.
At a distance of 1 cm from the sewing line of the piping, draw a line of alignment with a "magic" tailor's chalk. Pin the pocket trim, aligning its fold with the alignment line, the open edges of the trim lie on the markings. Sew the piping along the sewing line of the piping from the wrong side. Unscrew the seam allowances over the seam seam and pin. Pin the valve along the line of the valve stitching, while it is directed to the side cut, the rounded end of the valve lies at the top. Grind it down.

Step 7: pocket slots




Cut each shelf between the seams, not reaching approx. 1 cm to the ends of the facing of the pocket, and to the ends of the seams obliquely close to the last stitches to form small triangles. In doing so, do not damage the pocket trim and burlap! Unscrew the facing of the pocket into the slit, the flap forward. Press the seam allowances for stitching the facing of the pocket forward, the seam for stitching the flap to the side cut.

Step 8: sew on small burlap




Pin the small burlap of each pocket, face to face, to
seam allowances for stitching the facing of the pocket, it is directed to the side cut. Sew the seam allowances for the welt of the facing of the pocket on the burlap of the pocket from the seamy side close to the seam. Press the burlap pocket forward and pin. Fold the small triangles at the ends of the cut to the wrong side. Stitch along the seam of the facing of the pocket and the ends of the pocket to the edge.

Step 9 ... then the big ones




Using the magic tailor's chalk, mark the seam lines for the fleecy Velcro contact tape on the shelves. Glue the tape (3 cm long), stitch to the edge along the perimeter, grabbing the burlap of the pocket. Pin the large burlap of each pocket to the seam of the flap from the wrong side, sew like a small burlap. Chop off the sackcloths, grind and sweep. Stitch each shelf along the seam of the flap close to the seam.

Step 10: twill tape, rivets and pins




Pin the twill tape to the left shelf along the alignment lines, twisting the ends. Stitch around the perimeter of the twill tape. Install the rivets, as shown, along the middle line at a distance of 2 and 4 cm from the side edge. On the shelves, set the drawstring blocks along the markings, grabbing a small piece of fabric from the seamy side along with a small double pad.

Step 11: middle back seam, cut




Press the slanting allowances along the edges of the cut to the wrong side, tuck in to a width of 1 cm and baste, but do not stitch yet. Fold the parts of the back with the right sides, pin and grind the middle cuts from the top to the cut mark. Overcast seam allowances together, iron to one side, and topstitch from right side.
the sides close to the seam with the sewing thread.

Step 12: sew on the sleeves




Pin and stitch each sleeve to the shelf, right side to front
(check mark 1). Pin and stitch each sleeve to the back (check mark 2). Sew the seam allowances of the sewing sleeves together and press them onto the front and back. Stitch the shelves and back along the seams of the sleeves, close to the seam and 7 mm wide.

Step 13: pin the top drawstring trim




Sew the piping parts for the upper drawstring together in one long strip. Iron the seam allowances. Press the seam sections on the seamy side to a width of 1.2 cm, the finished seam width is 3.5 cm. Place the seam on the parka from the seamy side over the marked seam lines and first pin only the lower edge of the seam.

Step 14: thread the cord




Cut a length from the cord: dim. 34/36 - 3.00 m, dim. 38/40 - 3.10 m, dim.
42/44 - 3.20 m. Place the cord under the edging, thread the ends through the blocks on the front side of the parka. Pin the remaining free top edge of the piping. Sew on the seam by stitching from the front of the parka along the marked lines without snatching the cord. Tie a knot at the ends of the cord.

Step 15: for sizes 34/36, 38/40, shorten the zipper



Measure the length of the cuts of the sides of the parka between the marked lines for the neck and bottom. Measure this value from the bottom end of the zipper and place a mark. Carefully pry the top teeth guides apart, remove and set aside on either side of the zipper. Remove the upper excess teeth with pliers, finishing the work for approx. 0.5 cm below the given marks. Then slide the removed top guides onto the zip ties and press firmly.

Step 16: attaching the zipper



Open the zipper. Place each half of the zipper with the outer side on the front side of the shelf and pin it to the edge of the bead, with the teeth starting at the marked neckline and lying on the shelves 5 mm wide. Tuck the ends of the zipper braids and pin. From the seamy side of the parka, stitch along the sides using the sewing machine's foot for sewing piping and zippers. Leave the zipper braids on the shelves.

Step 17: side seams of the hood - seam seams


Fold the sides of the hood with the back of the hood right side to front, sew embossed seams (reference mark 3). Press the seam allowances into the back of the hood. Cut the bottom allowance of each relief seam to a width of 5 mm, and tuck the lying allowance on top to a width of 1 cm and baste. From the right side, stitch the back of the hood along the seams
close to the seams and to a width of 7 mm, stitching allowances.

Step 18: stitch the front of the hood



Fold the front parts of the hood in two with the right sides, sew the middle seams. Iron the seam allowances. Pin the outer front part of the hood to the side (reference mark 4) and back parts of the hood, aligning the cross marks of the front part with the raised seams. Sew the outer front of the hood. Press the seam allowances onto the outer front of the hood.

Step 19: visor




Sew the parts of the visor with the right sides, leaving open the sewing cuts. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching. Turn the visor out, press it on, stitch to the edge and 7 mm wide. Pin the visor to the front edge of the outside of the hood
between the cross marks.

Step 20: overcast the front of the hood



On the inner front of the hood, press the seam allowances.
Pin the inner front of the hood to the outer right sides, along the bottom edges to the cross marks. Stitch, at the cross marks, pass the stitch down diagonally to the edge of the seam allowance. Cut the seam allowances close to the line, at the corners - obliquely.

Step 21: finish finishing the hood and stitching it into the neckline




Unscrew the inner front of the hood and press it down. Pin the inner
the front of the hood over the welt seam. Stitch the front of the hood along the seam seam and along the edges to the hem. Insert the hood into the neckline between the cross marks (reference mark 5) from the front to the front. Sweep in the hood. Unscrew the clean-cut front edges of the hood and pin down.

Step 22: pin the pick



Overcast the seam allowances on the inner and top edges of the hem, iron to the wrong side and topstitch to the edge. Place the trims on the shelves over the zipper and hood tapes right side to front, pin along the sides and neckline.

Step 23 ... then facing the neck of the back




Fold back neckline piping (b) in half lengthwise with wrong side inward. Iron on. Pin the edge of the neck of the back to the edge of the neck of the back over the hood so that the open sections lie at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the allowance, and the ends are 1 cm above the hem. Cut the ends of the edge accordingly.

Step 24: stitching the chin



From the seamy side of the parka, lay a stitch along the sides (exactly along the line of attaching the zipper) and along the neck, starting / ending the line, not reaching approx. 10 cm to the bottom line of the parka. Do not turn the hem to the wrong side yet.

Step 25: side seams




Fold the front and back with the right sides. Chip off the side slices (control
mark 6) and continue to chisel the lower seams of the sleeves up to the corner at reference mark 7. Sew the seams. Neaten seam allowances together and press forward.

Step 26: pin the bottom piping




Sew the side seams on the hem of the parka (check mark 8). Iron the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances on the wrong side.
Remove the basting stitches at the edges of the back cut and fold the seams flat again.
Pin the piping along the bottom edge of the parka with the right side to the front side, while removing the pins from the hem and extending the piping under the hem.

Step 27 ... then grind



Cut the lower cuts of the grips at a distance of 1.5 cm above the marked line
bottom. Re-pin the remaining free cuts of the trims. Run a stitch along the bottom edge of the hem, continuing along the remaining open hem edges. Cut the seam allowances close to the line, as well as allowances along the neckline and along the sides, at the corners - obliquely.

Step 28: back cut




At the edges of the cut in the back of the piping, turn down, and press the seam allowances for stitching the piping to a length of approx. 5 cm. Turn the seam allowances back to the wrong side again. Tuck the seam allowances and seam ends. Back slit edges
stitch 7 mm apart with buttonhole threads.

Step 29: drawstring at the bottom of the park




Attach the cord to the hem of the parka bottom, stitch the ends of the cord to the allowances of the beads 1 cm above the seam of the hem of the hem. Turn the trim and facing of the neck of the back to the wrong side, iron the edges. Place the cord under the hem of the bottom. For the drawstring, baste the top seams on the hem.

Step 30: stitch the parka



Sew the sides and neckline 7 mm wide. Stitch the bottom to a width of 2.3 cm, as
marked on the pattern, grind the inner cut of the hem of the bottom, do not fasten the cord. Sew the upper cuts of the hem to the seam allowances for stitching the sleeves to the back. Fold the cord at the back cut into a loop and tie it into a knot.

Step 31: prepare the cuffs




Fold each cuff and sew short cuts. Iron the seam allowances. Fold the cuff in half lengthways with the wrong side inward, press the fold. Fold out the cuff again. Along the bottom of each sleeve from the front side, fold and sweep the folds in the direction of the arrow marks.

Step 32: attaching the cuffs



Pin one slice of each cuff to the bottom of the sleeve with the right side
to the front side, aligning the seam of the cuff with the lower seam of the sleeve. Grind it down. Allowances
Press the seam onto the cuff. Press the seam allowance on the wrong side of the cuff. Fold the cuff along the fold and pin the inner half over the welt seam. From the right side of the parka, stitch the cuff along the welt seam close to the seam.

Step 33: clean the straps




Fold each strap in half lengthwise, stitch along one short side and longitudinal cuts 1.5 cm from the fold. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, at the corners obliquely. Turn out the strap, iron it and topstitch to the edge.

Step 34: attaching the straps




Pass the clean-cut end of each short strap into 2 half rings
2 cm wide and stitch. Pin the open ends of each pair of straps to the cuff at the folds of the sleeve so that they are directed towards each other, while the strap with half rings is directed towards the seam where the sleeve is sewn to the armhole of the back. Sew the ends of the straps. Cut the seam allowances to a width of 5 mm. Unscrew the tabs over the stitching seams and topstitch at a distance of 7 mm from the stitching seams.

Step 35: Velcro, hood edges



From the Velcro contact tape, cut three pieces of 5 cm long.Parts of the tape with a glue surface with a glue stick glue one after another over the marked lines of attaching the Velcro fastener on the inside of the right edge of the hood, the parts of the tape with a fleecy surface on the outside of the left edge of the hood. Stitch both edges of the hood in turn along the marked lines on the back.

Extra tip: The blocks are very easy to install using the special pliers.

Photo: Jan Schmidel (4), U2 / Uli Glasemann. Illustrations: Elke Trier-Schaefer,
Prepared by Anna Soboleva

The parka is truly universal clothing. It is suitable for both hikers and residents of large cities who are generally not inclined to travel. You can wear it with jeans, a skirt, and even an evening dress made of light flying fabric. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to find an interesting style in ready-to-wear stores, and sewing in an atelier is quite an expensive pleasure. Is there a way out? Of course have. Grab a needle and try to do everything yourself. You will learn how to sew a parka with your own hands from the article.

What kind of park could it be?

To sew a women's parka with your own hands, you will need some materials. Look, maybe you have something in your closet - if not for the main parts, then at least for additional ones. Now in vogue:

  • elbow patches - leather and waxed fabric;
  • leather pockets:
  • knitted cuffs;
  • fur trim on sleeves and hood.

Important! And do not hesitate - it may well be that you come up with some details that clothing designers do not even know about. But first, of course, you need to think about how to sew a parka without any additional decorations.

What to sew from?

The traditional material for a parka is canvas. It is best of all to sew from it, fortunately, there is no shortage of such fabrics now. The canvas has a sufficient width - as a rule, it is 150 cm.But if there is nothing suitable in the store, you can use other materials:

  • raincoat fabric;
  • bologna;
  • advice;
  • tarpaulin.

Important! It should be borne in mind, however, that the tarp may be too heavy for fragile women's hangers, moreover, not every machine will take it. But the raincoat fabric in the store is almost always there, it is sewn easily, practically does not crumble. Bologna and avisent are not bad materials, but they must be sewn with synthetic threads, cotton will tear very quickly. The easiest way to cut an ad is with a soldering iron or a burner.

How much material do you need?

The fabric is calculated depending on the size, but in any case, with a cut width of 150 cm, even the largest lady with curvaceous shapes will need no more than 3.5 m.

Important! The standard consumption is 3.3 m, which is enough for jackets of almost any women's size.

What else is required?

To sew a parka yourself and at the same time not look like a scarecrow in the garden, you need some additional materials - they will make your jacket very similar to the branded one. You will need:

  • non-woven fabric;
  • detachable zipper (60-65 cm, depending on size);
  • about 5 m of cord;
  • Velcro tape 2 cm wide - about 10 m;
  • twill tape 10 cm;
  • breaking through blocks - 2;
  • 4 half rings with a diameter of 1.5 cm;
  • 2 rivets;
  • sewing accessories;

It is always useful to have on the household such things as silk paper for patterns, scissors (tailor's and for paper), pencils, centimeter, pins (tailor's), crayon, glue stick, carbon paper, sewing needles.

How to sew a parka - pattern

It is best to sew outerwear according to ready-made patterns, especially if there are additional details such as a hood and pockets. You can easily find a parka pattern in any branded fashion magazine - for example, in “Burda”. Moreover, on the websites of popular design firms, drawings for such products are systematically laid out, so all that remains is to choose the size. This will not be the case.

Important! Parka - the jacket is loose enough that if you go wrong a couple of centimeters, nothing bad will happen.

  1. A tracing paper is superimposed on a sheet of patterns.
  2. The details are outlined exactly in size - be sure to pay attention that all the patterns are from the same model, all the lines are confused on the pattern sheet from the magazine. But each product has its own designation, you will find it next to the image of the jacket.
  3. Be sure to apply all the markings - arrows, points of alignment of sleeves and hood, lines for stitching the pocket and flap.
  4. On some patterns, the outlines of oblique inlines, straps and edging are given for certain details - translate them too, this will save yourself a lot of problems.

Important! The contours of additional details on the pattern sheets are not always printed, in which case they should be drawn directly on the fabric.

How to lay out patterns?

Sewing is costly and you shouldn't waste material. It is necessary to arrange the patterns so that:

  • they all fit;
  • the direction of the thread was observed - the main fragments are cut along the share, some details - along the oblique;
  • there is room for allowances and additional parts.

Since the main parts are almost all paired, the fabric can be folded in half at once, for example, along a shared thread. Your material is most likely monochromatic, so there is no need to adjust the drawing. If you took a pattern from a company magazine, it is best to use the editorial advice on how to most economically distribute the parts along the cut. In total, you should get:

  • 2 shelves:
  • 2 backs;
  • 2 sleeves;
  • 2 front parts of the hood;
  • 2 sides of the hood;
  • 2 backs of the hood;
  • 2 visor details;
  • 2 valves;
  • 2 picks;
  • 2 hem hem for the front and back.

Of course, you need to cut it on the seamy side, that is, the fabric should be folded with the right side inward. It is useful to pin the patterns, especially if you used roll tracing paper, which tends to curl up. After all the details are laid out and outlined, outline the allowances - it is convenient to do this along the ruler. The allowance width is 1.5 cm.

What else do you need to cut out?

If there were no small details on the pattern sheet, they should be drawn directly onto the fabric. You should get:

  • 2 edging for pockets - their size is 22x4 cm, but may differ in one direction or another;
  • neck facing (cut along the slant);
  • upper drawstring (a strip about 110 cm long and 6 cm wide, but the size may be slightly larger or slightly smaller, depending on the size);
  • cuffs - 2 rectangles 4 cm wide and about 40 cm long (plus or minus 1 cm, depending on size);
  • 2 long straps (9 cm long);
  • 2 short straps (7 cm each), the width of both is 3 cm.

We cut non-woven

Some parts need to be pasted over with non-woven in order for them to keep their shape. The following details are reinforced with non-woven fabric:

  • picking;
  • cuffs;
  • pocket flaps:
  • straps.

Place the appropriate parts (paper patterns or ready-made fragments) on the non-woven fabric and circle, and then cut out, not forgetting about the allowances:

  1. Place the parts on the wrong side of the glued part of the non-woven fabric.
  2. Align all the slices.
  3. Press on the gasket.

We start with the little things

They say that the devil is in the details, and this fully applies to sewing outerwear. The ease of assembly depends on the quality of processing of small elements, and ultimately the appearance of your jacket.

Before you sew a women's parka with your own hands, prepare the details:

  1. Take paired parts with and without non-woven fabric - for example, valves.
  2. Fold them right over, carefully aligning all the edges.
  3. Stitch along the contour, leaving only the cut that will be sewn to the shelf open.
  4. Turn it out.
  5. Iron.
  6. Sew a finishing line 0.5 cm from the seam.
  7. Press the open seam allowance to the wrong side.
  8. Sew the flaps to the shelves strictly along the stitching lines - it is very convenient to use Velcro tape for such purposes, the flap is simply glued first with a glue stick and then sewn on. But, if there is no tape, you can simply sweep it.

Sewing pockets

Fold the pocket in half lengthwise with the right side out. Iron the fold. We outline the alignment line at a distance of 1 cm from the line along which the edging will be sewn:

  1. Align the piping with the marked stitching line - the open cuts should be on the markings.
  2. Sew on the detail.
  3. Unscrew the allowance at the seam, baste or pin.
  4. Baste and sew on the flap.

We process the slots

On the shelf you have a line for stitching a pocket. Cut through it so that it remains 1 cm before the end of the piping. This must be done very carefully so as not to cut through what should remain intact. Unscrew the facing of the pocket to the side of the cut, and the flap - vice versa.

  1. Sew on burlap - you need to start with a smaller part.
  2. Baste it right side to side.
  3. Stitch in.
  4. Sweep the allowances together.
  5. Sew on the larger piece the same way.
  6. Sew both pieces of burlap together.

We collect the main details

Pockets are a delicate matter, and if they are ready, then you can proceed to the next steps. The hood also needs to be handled carefully, but for a start it is better to put it all together. The order at this stage will be traditional:

  1. Baste the hem to the shelves, putting the free ends of the detachable zipper into the seam - for this, the parts need to be folded with their front sides to each other, chopped off and stitched.
  2. Unscrew the hem to the wrong side and iron.
  3. Make a second lift.
  4. Bounce off shoulder and side seams and grind them.
  5. When stitching in the sleeve, pay special attention to the alignment points - they should match on the collar and armhole.

Hood

First, we sweep and sew all the details:

  1. Sew a trim to the front - a strip cut along the side.
  2. We drive in 2 rings at the bottom.
  3. When the hood is ready, we align its lower part with the edge of the neckline - and don't forget about the dots! Sew, iron the allowances on the side of the jacket and overcast together.

Sleeves

Cuffs are made for the bottom of the sleeves, you have already cut them out:

  1. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, with the front side inward.
  2. Sew along the edge, leaving the stitching line open.
  3. Put the allowance along the stitching line inward, iron it.
  4. We mark the detail by inserting a cut of the sleeve between the cuff allowances.
  5. We attach.
  6. Trying on and punching buttons.
  7. Sew short tabs along the top of the cuffs.

Important! The bottom of the sleeve can also be made with an elastic band - then the cuff is not needed, and the cut just needs to be hemmed by 1.5-2 cm.

We design the clasp

In principle, the jacket is ready if it has a zipper. But you can act differently - make, for example, a Velcro fastener or do as old tourists did - sew on stylish large buttons. But then you will need to immediately process the slotted loops. However, the classic parka is nevertheless zipped, and detachable.

We bring to mind

There are just a few steps left:

  • to sew a waist drawstring to the seamy side - it's just a strip in which long sections are bent and ironed to the seamy side, after which the part is sewn along the waist line;
  • process the bottom - you can hem;
  • sew straps to the designated places for them;
  • insert the cord into the waistband and the front of the hood.

Jacket options

This was the description of the simplest park. But other options are also possible - for example, with a permanent or detachable lining. They will be somewhat more difficult, but if you find, for example, not very thick artificial fur. Everything can be done very quickly.

What can be sewn from a parka?

There are in the world and directly opposite options. You have an old parka, which for some reason you no longer wear, but it’s a pity to throw it away - what can you do out of it?

The easiest option is to sew a jacket for your child. In this case, you need to follow one simple rule - a similar one is cut from each detail, and elements that require special care are best used in full. These are valves, straps and the like.

Video

In a word, sewing a parka is not such an impossible task. The most important thing is to dare and pay special attention to small details, because the branded look of outerwear largely depends on them.

Level of difficulty: average

Technical drawing of the model:

Description of appearance

Parka (jacket) for women, off-season, casual with a lined hood, with a central side zipper. Shelves with patch pockets with flaps fastened with a button and a windproof flap fastened with 6 buttons. Single-suture set-in sleeve. Adjustable tape accentuates the waistline.

Constructive additions to this model: to chest girth -14 cm up to size 52, 16 cm starting from size 54; to the waist circumference 38-39 cm; to the hip circumference 12-14 cm. The length of the product is 17 cm above the knee line.

Materials: basic - raincoat (jacket) fabric: lining - lining material, including quilted with insulation.

Attention! If you decide to use an insulated lining material, then keep in mind that a constructive addition to this model implies the possibility of using a thin insulation, surface density no more than 100 g / m2

When ordering a pattern, you will receive 3 pdf files:

  • A file with instructions for printing a pattern, containing a control square and measurements, according to which the pattern was built;
  • File with a pattern in A4 format, for printing on a regular printer
  • File with a pattern on one large sheet - for printing on a plotter

* PRINT ON A4 FORMAT PRINTER:

When printing a pattern in A4 size, open Adobe Reader and check Actual Size (or uncheck Fit to Page) in the print settings.

Notice the test square (or grid) on the pattern sheet. Its size is exactly 10 by 10 cm. It is needed in order to understand whether the scale is set correctly on your printer when printing. Before printing the entire pattern, print out the sheet with the red square and measure it. 10 cm sides? hence, you can print the rest of the pattern sheets. If the sides are more or less than 10 cm, you need to adjust the print scale for your printer. Otherwise, the pattern is not printed correctly.

After printing all the pages of the pattern, glue them in the order shown: the letters (A / B / C +) represent the column, and the numbers (01/02/03 +) represent the row. The first (top left) sheet of the pattern will have the number A01.

* PRINT ON PLOTTER:

When printing a pattern on a plotter, open the pattern file in Adobe Reader (or Foxit Reader). Click on the "File" menu item, then select "Print". Select the "Poster" print mode in the "Adjusting page size and handling" section. Make sure the Segment Scale field is set to 100%. Check the boxes for Clipping Marks, Labels, and Split Large Pages Only.

The following designations are adopted on the pattern:

Parts list

Main material

  1. Shelf - 2 parts
  2. Backrest - 1 piece (folded)
  3. Pick-up - 2 parts
  4. Sleeve - 2 pieces
  5. Hood - 2 pieces
  6. Hood insert - 1 piece
  7. Hood piping (main part) - 2 parts
  8. Backstitching - 1 piece (folded)
  9. Pocket - 2 pieces
  10. Pocket flap - 4 pieces
  11. Clasp flap - 2 pieces
  12. Lightning valance - 1 piece
  13. Pocket side - 2 parts
  14. Hood trim (extension) - 1 piece

Lining material

  • Shelf - 2 parts
  • Backrest - 1 piece (folded). It is cut according to the main materials minus the facing of the neck of the back
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Hood - 2 pieces. Tailored to the base material minus the piping of the hood.
  • Hood insert - 1 piece. Cut on the main materials minus the hood trim extension

Gasket material

  • Valve - 2 pieces
  • Pocket facing - 2 pieces
  • Interlining material for the allowance for processing the lower cut of the product - 1 piece
  • Interlining material for the allowance for processing the cut of the bottom of the sleeves - 2 parts
  • Amplifier of the left shelf for buttons (TPM strip 5 cm wide, 50 cm long)

Attention! If there is enough basic material, then you can cut out 4 parts "Hood" and 2 parts - "Hood insert", and do not cut out the trimming of the hood. This will greatly simplify processing.

Attention! When cutting parts, it is necessary to add seam allowances: for all cuts 1 cm, except for the bottom cut of the shelf and back and the cut of the bottom of the sleeves. Along the lower cut of the shelf and back - 4 cm, along the cut of the bottom of the sleeves - 3 cm.

Exemplary the consumption of the main material is 1.5 - 3.2 meters, depending on the size and height of the product, as well as on the width of the material.

Attention! The figures show the options for the arrangement of parts on the canvas of different widths "in the fold" and different sizes. Note that the highlighted parts are cut out one at a time.

Attention! If you decide to cut out the hood lining from the main material, then the consumption will increase by 30 cm.

Advice!Before buying the material, if it is not yet available, make several options for laying out the cut parts on the floor for “different material widths”, and you will understand what width will be optimal for your size and height. By the way, at this very moment you will be able to determine the length of the zipper.



To make a jacket, you will also need:

  • lining material. The approximate consumption of lining material will vary from 1.1 - 2.8 meters. Material consumption depends on your decision to cut out the hood from the main material or lining, as well as on the size and height;
  • hot glue cushioning material - 50 cm;
  • braid "zipper" 60 (70) cm long, depending on your height;
  • braid (cord) - 2 m.;
  • cord ends;
  • buttons - 8 pieces;
  • sewing thread.

Technological sequence of processing


27. Sew the zipper braid along the zipper seam, placing the valance on the front side of the shelf and aligning the cuts (Fig. 2, line 2).

28. Close the zipper. Sew a zipper to the right front shelf along the edge of the bead.

29. Sew the neckline to the hem at the shoulder edges. Iron the seam allowances.

30. Sew the hem and back neck piping to the parka along the edge of the bead and the lower edge of the hood lining (Fig. 2, line 3).

31. Stitch the sleeves along the bottom cuts.

32. Sew sleeves into armholes.

33. Determine the length of the sleeves and press the sewing allowance on the wrong side.

34. Determine the length of the parka and sweep the hemming allowance to the wrong side.

35. Determine the location of the waistline clip. Cut a strip of any material with a width of 5 cm and a length equal to the finished product width minus 10 cm. Mark its location, put eyelets for the cord or overcast loops and stitch a strip of material under the cord, putting the cord under it, along the marked line.

36. Grind the bottom edge of the parka on the edge of the shelf with hemlines.

37. Prepare the lining of the parka (connect the front and back along the side and shoulder cuts, sew the sleeves of the lining along the bottom cuts, sew the sleeves of the lining into the armhole of the lining). Attention! Leave a 15-20 cm hole in the bottom seam of the left sleeve.

38. Sew the lining of the parka along the inner edges of the hem, the lower edge of the piping of the neckline of the back and the lower edge of the product. Stitch seam seam allowances on the hem and overcast.

39 Sew the sleeve lining to the sleeves along the hem (Fig. 2, line 4)

40. Turn the product right out through the hole in the left sleeve.

41. Attach the lining to the park at the side and shoulder seams.

42. Sew a hole in the bottom seam of the sleeve.

Option 1. The easiest option is a quilted lining with insulation. In this case, the details of the lining of the shelf, back, sleeves and hood completely repeat the details of the top MINUS trim (on the shelf) and MINUS facing of the neck of the back on the back. The quilted lining with insulation is assembled in the same way as the usual (non-insulated) lining - "robe" and is connected to the top.

Option 2. Insulation is cut out separately; in this case, the details of the insulation also repeat the details of the lining. Then one of the most common methods of processing insulation and connecting it to the product is used. The details of the lining are collected by the "robe" and separately the details of the insulation in the same way, by the "robe". Then, along all the cuts of the insulation, a strip of material 2 cm wide (along the edge of the bead, bottom, neck) is adjusted with an overhead seam so that the strip extends 1 cm beyond the cuts (see Fig. 4). This strip is used as an intermediate element between the upper parts and the insulation, i.e. having prepared the insulation, it must be connected with the top details along all the cuts, folding the top and the insulating insulation with the wrong side and combining the cuts of the intermediate element (strips) and the cuts of the hem, trimming the neck of the back and cuts of the bottom of the sleeves. Thus, you will get the top connected to the insulation. Next, you connect the lining to the product with which the insulation is already connected.