How to shave yourself with a straight razor. How to shave with a straight razor correctly without cutting yourself? The sharper the razor, the less stubble

05.12.2023

So-called straight razors are becoming increasingly popular among men. This tool has enough advantages: it does not irritate the skin, the shaving is high-quality, and the process itself is interesting and entertaining for men. A straight razor can easily compete with T-shaped razors and electric shavers.

There are two types of straight razors:

classic straight razor;
straight razor with replaceable blade.

Classic straight razor

A classic straight razor has two main parts - a blade and a handle. They are connected to each other with a small rivet. The handle has a slot for the blade, which allows you to fold the razor in half, which is very convenient - the blade will be protected during transportation. As a rule, plastic or wood is used to make handles, but there are exceptions. On custom straight razors, the handle may be made of ivory or another more expensive material. The blade, in turn, includes the following elements:

work cloth (1);
tongue (2);
neck (3);
blade (4);
back (5);
head (6);
heel (7).

The blade of a straight razor consists of a working blade, tongue, neck, blade, back, head and heel

A straight razor with a replaceable blade (shavet) is similar in structure to a classic straight razor. The only difference is that this type has the ability to replace the blade. Many people find this option more convenient, since there is no need to sharpen the blade. For such a razor, blades that are used in conventional machines are quite suitable. An exception may be only some models, but their replacement parts are already included in the kit.

Shavette is a straight razor whose blade can be replaced.

Table: rating of straight razor blades

Photo gallery: straight razor blades

Feather - the best company for the production of blades for shavettes
Parker - the most affordable straight razor blades
Dovo Shavette - good price/quality ratio

How to choose a straight razor

If you are new to working with a straight razor, then it is better to follow some tips that will help you not make the wrong choice.

Table: straight razor parameters

Parameter	Characteristic
Blade width	Blades can be wide or narrow. But a straight razor with a wide blade is quite heavy, and your hand can get tired quickly. A narrow blade is larger Suitable for experienced users, because it makes it more difficult to choose the right shaving angle. The best option is to use a 5/8 or 6/8 inch blade.
Concavity	The Feather curved blade razor is a beginner's choice. Despite the high cost of such a device, it is considered the most convenient and optimal.
Head	Give preference to a razor with a round head, it is less dangerous. The square head is more suitable for professionals.
Blade material	The blade is made of steel: stainless or carbon. Both materials have proven themselves well in the market.
Handle material	To understand which handle material to choose, hold the razor in your hands. Buy the one that fits most comfortably in your hand.
Manufacturer	It is believed that the best straight razors are made in Germany and France, so pay attention to manufacturers in these countries.

How to use a straight razor correctly

The main rule of use is that a straight razor must be sharp enough, otherwise you risk damaging your skin. Before you start the process, it’s worth practicing holding your guard correctly.

There are 3 ways to hold the machine:

We place the thumb on the neck, put the little finger on the tongue, and leave all the other fingers on the back of the razor.
The little finger is on the tongue, the thumb is on the back from the inside, and the remaining fingers are on the back from the outside.
We place the index and middle fingers on the back from the inside, place the ring and little fingers on the tongue, and hold the junction of the tongue with the canvas with our thumb.

Before you start using it, learn how to hold a straight razor correctly.

Rules for shaving with a straight razor

So, if you have learned how to hold the razor correctly in your hands, then you can move on to the stage of removing unwanted hair. There are tips to help you achieve the desired result:

Steam your face. You can take a warm shower or apply a towel previously soaked in hot water.
Soak your brush in a mug of hot water.
Lather your face with regular soap and use a brush to lather well the areas you are going to work with. Shaving gels and foams are not suitable if you use a straight razor.
While shaving, you need to stretch the skin with your middle and index fingers. It must be tightened before each movement of the razor. Make sure that your fingers are 2-3 cm from the blade.
The tension occurs in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade.
The angle between the skin and the straight razor should be approximately 30°.
Don't put pressure on the blade! This will cause skin irritation or cuts.
When shaving, only the hand should be mobile.
Try to shave with the central part of the blade, as it is the most controllable.
To ensure your face is perfectly smooth, you need to make at least 3 passes with the blade. The first pass along the hairline, first with short and jerky movements, then with longer strokes. The second and third are against hair growth. Don't forget to apply soapy water between passes.
You need to be especially careful in the area under your nose, because a sudden upward movement can lead to a serious cut.
After you've finished shaving, rinse off the lather with cool water.
Use a moisturizing aftershave lotion.

Video: how to shave with a straight razor correctly

It is interesting that in the 90s of the 20th century, a straight razor was considered a retro tool, a real exotic. But in the 21st century, interest in this device increased again, and more and more companies began to produce straight razors.

Are there age restrictions?

Facial hair begins to appear in boys at a fairly early age. On average 12–16 years old. As soon as such a moment comes, young guys wonder what is the best way to get rid of unwanted hair. The most common option is a regular shaving machine. But it causes irritation and rashes on delicate youthful skin. Can I use a straight razor as a teenager? Of course, it is much less damaging to the skin, but you need to know how to handle it. It is not recommended for a young man who does not have much shaving experience to use a straight razor on his own.

Safety rules for shaving with a straight razor

To obtain a high-quality result without consequences, it is worth remembering safety precautions when using a straight razor. After all, the name of this machine speaks for itself, and if you neglect the rules, you can cause serious harm to your health.

How to protect yourself:

do not apply soap suds to pimples and raised moles to avoid damaging them during shaving;
Take care of your razor, otherwise it may become dull or rusty;
do not use a straight razor if there is a defect on the blade;
do not shave your face with a straight razor in a noisy environment, because any jolt or sudden movement can lead to injury;
Never throw or twist your razor unnecessarily;
Always keep hemostatic powder on hand; it is sold in pharmacies.

Care of a straight razor

If you want the “safety guard” to serve you as long as possible, then take good care of it. There is nothing complicated about this, the main rule is to minimize moisture getting on the blade. While shaving, do not rinse the razor under running water; it is better to remove any remaining foam using a waffle towel. And also exclude any mechanical damage. If a straight razor comes into contact with a hard surface, it may become damaged beyond repair. If you want to disinfect the blade, use alcohol or soap solution. Never apply acid to the razor or rinse it with hot water! A straight razor does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature. Such a tool should be stored in a dry place and place. The bathroom is not suitable for these purposes. Do not hide your straight razor in cases or covers, it needs to “breathe.” If desired, you can treat the blade with a special oil for preserving metal.

How to sharpen a straight razor at home

A straight razor tends to become dull. To return it to its original condition, you can contact a sharpening specialist. You can also sharpen the blade at home. There are two main ways to sharpen a straight razor:

using a belt;
using a stone.

How to sharpen a straight razor with a belt

If you own a straight razor, then having a sharpening belt is a must. The belt should be the width of your blade, in this case the surface will be processed more evenly. Straightening a razor using a belt has its own nuances:

for every fiftieth pass of the razor on the leather part of the belt, there are 15 movements on the fabric part;
the belt must be perfectly smooth, without bends or bumps;
watch the belt tension, it should be strong.

Sharpening process:

Place the blade flat on the belt.
Pull the blade along the belt with the back facing forward.
Apply slight pressure to the blade as you work.
Having reached one edge of the belt, turn the razor over the back and start moving in the opposite direction.
Take your time during the process.

Video: straightening a straight razor on a belt

How to sharpen a straight razor with a stone

Sharpening a straight razor with a stone is carried out in case of serious damage to the blade; this procedure should not be carried out frequently. The operating algorithm is as follows:

Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.
Wet your stone a little before working.
Place the blade flat on the stone and press it to the surface with your fingers.
Movements should take place along the stone.
When you reach the edge of the stone, turn the razor over the back and start moving in the opposite direction.
Don't press the blade too hard.

Video: how to sharpen a straight razor on a stone

Shaving is a common morning ritual for men. Many males are not satisfied with the results of razors and use straight razors. It’s not for nothing that this method of removing stubble from the face is called royal. The straight razor owes its name to the quality of the result.

To make the best and safest use of your razor, you need to know how to properly use it and care for your skin and blade.

How to use a straight razor correctly

The razor should always be well sharpened; the result of a high-quality shave and clean, smooth skin without damage depends on this.

First, the skin must be prepared. Hot water makes hair softer and more pliable. For this reason, many men prefer to shave after taking a shower or bath. If it is not possible to pre-steam your face in hot water, you should use a towel. To do this, place the towel in a container of hot water and after a few minutes place it on your face. The hot steam from the towel will steam your facial skin and prepare it for shaving.

Thanks to its shape and size, the dangerous blade shaves faster and more efficiently, without additional effort. In order to apply the foam to the face, you need a shaving brush.

How to choose a shaving brush?

You should pay attention to the quality of the shaving brush. The handle should be comfortable, and the brush itself should be made of boar bristles, horse hair or squirrel hair.

Care of a straight razor

A straight razor requires careful care. It is necessary to remember about hygiene and cleanliness of the blade. The razor should be stored in a dry place. Since moisture contributes to dulling of the blade and the appearance of plaque. After each shaving procedure, the dangerous blade should be rinsed in hot running water.

A brutal, self-confident man should be able to shave with a straight or blade razor. This personal hygiene item was revered by English gentlemen, as well as crazy criminals in thrillers. Let's figure out how to shave with a straight razor correctly, what nuances should be taken into account in order to achieve an ideal result and not injure yourself.

Be prepared for the fact that the first time the result will be far from ideal, but over time your hand will get used to performing the movements perfectly correctly. Many people quite rightly think - if the blade is so sharp, why take the risk? After all, you can use the instructions on how to properly shave a man with a razor - it’s less traumatic. The fact is that a straight razor removes the smallest hairs on the face, leaving the skin clean and smooth.

Pro Tips:

never use a blade razor when you are in a bad mood, tired or upset about something, its use requires maximum concentration and absolute calm;
for the first time, do not try to shave your face completely, start with even areas - the cheeks;
the process is complex, so it will take weeks and even months to hone your skills;
In addition to theoretical information, be sure to watch the video on how to shave correctly with a straight razor - a visual example is always more effective and will help you catch minor details.

And as a final recommendation, a video from the most famous manufacturers of blade razors - Mr. Bocker and his son.

It is important! In addition to perfectly smooth skin, using a straight razor can bring deep moral satisfaction. The main thing is to be patient and methodically hone your skills, movements and mastery.

Personal hygiene products for close shaving

Straight razor. Do not buy Chinese brand razors because their edges are uneven and the geometry is incorrect. Such equipment is simply not suitable for shaving; it is impossible to sharpen a Chinese blade.
Blade straightening belt. Manual (suspended) tensioners are most often used, but other types of belts are also suitable. When choosing a model, pay attention to the presence of a fabric side.
The following beard care products are auxiliary, but very useful:

special soap or foam for straight razors;
brush;
cups for preparing foam.

A few words about choosing a razor

If you want to buy a truly high-quality blade razor, choose the following brands - Dovo, Thiers-Issard, and Böker. If your budget is limited, you can buy a GoldDollar razor from Giesen & Forsthoff. Their quality is somewhat inferior to that of famous brands, but in general you can shave. Remember that new razors need to be sharpened.

It is important! Vintage razors are in no way inferior to new, expensive models, and in some respects even surpass them. Look for such a rarity on a special website - Straight Razor Club. Most razors have already stood the test of time and are undoubtedly of high quality. If you are a beginner, do not buy an antique blade on eBay - it is impossible to judge the quality from the photos presented on the site.

How to shave a razor

A bladed razor is considered a weapon, and like any weapon, it needs to be looked after and cared for. Care consists of grinding the blade on a belt, which should be made of genuine leather.

Grinding is performed according to the following scheme:

turn the belt inside;
stretch slightly;
the blade should be pointed straight towards the person, and the back part should be slightly raised above the belt.

The procedure is carried out regularly, but you cannot grind the blade immediately after shaving - microdamages remain on the surface, which can cause the appearance of nicks.

Basic principles of a perfect shave

The main secret is in the sharp blade.

The better the blade is sharpened, the easier it is to follow the shaving technique, and accordingly, the result will be better. A poorly sharpened blade will cause skin irritation.

How to hold a razor.

There are three ways to hold the blade.

The little finger is on the notch, the thumb is at the bottom of the neck and rests on the heel, the remaining fingers are on the earl.
The little finger is on the notch of the ponytail, the thumb is on the earl, the rest of the fingers are on the outside. This method is in many ways similar to the first. The difference lies in the direction of the blade - it is directed upwards.
The blade is directed upward, the middle and index fingers are located on the earl from the inside, the ring finger holds the tail, the thumb holds the butt in the part where it connects to the blade. Make sure the handle is in contact with your wrist.

It is important! Regardless of which method is chosen, the hair should be removed without effort; you should not put pressure on the blade.

How to properly stretch the skin.

The basic rule is to stretch the skin in the direction opposite to the movement of the razor. The action plan is as follows:

The skin is stretched with one finger; it is most convenient to use the index or middle finger;
the finger is located a few centimeters from the blade;
The skin needs to be stretched before each movement of the razor.

It is important! Pay special attention to areas where natural skin tension is minimal. First of all, this applies to the cheeks - if you don’t stretch the skin enough, you can get injured.

Blade angle and direction.

The tool should always move with the toe (head) forward, the angle of inclination is at least 30 degrees, but not more than 40 degrees.

Movements should be light and relaxed. Only the hand should move - rhythmically and often. If you shave with your whole hand, the hair will not be cut, but will be pulled out, and this is painful and causes irritation.

How to shave with a straight razor correctly - video lessons and practical recommendations

It is necessary to prepare your face for the procedure - take a hot shower or apply a steamed towel to your face twice for 5 minutes.

After this, soak the shaving brush in the hottest possible water. Then you need to squeeze out the excess water and whip up the foam in the container where the brush was soaked (discard the water) or directly on your face. Before applying the foam, your face must be wet.

The foam is applied to the parts of the face where hair grows; it should be thick and dense. Use a hot towel to remove excess foam - this will cleanse your face of sebum. Apply the foam again in short strokes and leave for 5-10 minutes. If the soap dries out during this time, apply the foam again. The foam layer should be maximum - this protects the skin from a sharp blade.

It is important! The three most traumatic areas are the Adam's apple, ears, and lips.

Now you can start shaving directly. The movements are performed from the temple. If this is your first time using the blade, simply lay it flat on your face and then raise the blade at an angle of at least 30 degrees and no more than 40 degrees.

A high-quality procedure involves several stages:

by hair growth;
against hair growth.

Before the second stage, the face is washed and soaped again. Now let's look at each stage in more detail.

Treatment of the right side of the face according to hair growth

Movements begin from the temporal line, moving down to the cheek. The razor should be held in the first way. First, remove a little foam from the temple line - this is necessary to align the blade evenly. The skin is slightly stretched and the hair is cut off with a slight movement. In this way, a few centimeters are processed downwards, then you should move towards the jaw. To do this, in the middle of the cheek the blade is turned slightly in the direction of the lobe.

It is important! In the corner of the jaw, hairs, as a rule, grow chaotically; here it is important to move in the direction of growth.

Particular attention should be paid to the area near the ear. To do this, slightly pull the ear away from the blade and then cut off the hairs.

Then the blade should be taken in the third way, placed in the middle of the cheek, the edge should be located below the cheekbone. In this position, the cheek is treated in the direction of the lips.

After this, the blade moves towards the hairs that grow under the lower lip.

Advice! Use your tongue to form a slight bulge, this will make it much easier to work with the blade. Throughout the entire process, it is important to use the facial muscles - this protects against injury.

When cutting hairs on the chin, you need to monitor the position of the razor, as this is where cuts often occur. From the chin to the mouth, the hairs are cut with a blade in position 2 or 3. The main task is to stop the blade in time so as not to damage the lower lip.

Modeling a mustache is a complex process. Considering that the hair here grows from top to bottom, the blade should move as well. The blade must be kept in position 1. Movements must be short and clear. The side of the mustache is shaved from right to left, using only the head of the blade. The hairs are cut to the middle, moving lower, you can cut your lip.

The razor is held in the first way and the area from the chin to the center of the jaw is processed. The skin needs to be stretched in two directions - one finger on the chin, the second on the jaw, and the blade between them. The tool works quickly, easily, without pressure.

The last stage is shaving the neck. To avoid cutting the Adam's apple, the skin in this part of the neck is pulled to the side and then the hairs are cut off. The blade is held in position 2.

Treatment of the left side of the face according to hair growth

The razor is taken in the first position, and the head of the blade should not block the view. The movements again begin from the temple line. The blade drops a few centimeters; you need to make sure that the cut on the right and left is at the same level. The reference point is the conditional line of the eyes. The razor moves down towards the cheek.

After this, the blade moves from the center of the cheek to the chin. The razor is installed along a conventional line from the eyes to the lobe. Along the way, the area of the whiskers and the lower part of the mustache on the left are processed. To make cutting your mustache easier, just lift the tip of your nose. The blade is held in method 1.

The next stage is to cut off the remaining part of the hair in the mustache area - small movements from left to right. Hairs need to be trimmed from the side in the direction they grow. Blade in position 2.

The blade is placed near the lobe and moved towards the chin. The skin needs to be pulled diagonally - up to the ear.

As for the area above the upper lip, it can be cleaned by treating the right side of the face. If minor hairs remain, they are removed at this stage. The blade is taken using method 2 or 3.

After this, the hairs from the neck are cut off - the blade is drawn from the chin to the Adam's apple. You cannot shave the Adam's apple directly. It is necessary to pull the skin a little and only then treat the area.

Then they move on to the rest of the neck - the blade is in position 1, it is installed from the bottom of the jaw and with a slight movement it is carried out until the end of hair growth.

It is important! In the lower part of the neck, hair often grows from the bottom up. To shave them, take the blade in the second way and perform movements from bottom to top.

Treatment of the right side of the face against hair growth

A repeat step is necessary to remove remaining hairs and bring the shaving process to perfection. Before doing this, you need to apply foam; if the bristles are soft, just wash with warm water.

They start cutting hairs from the neck line, the blade moves towards the temples. The right side of the face is treated with a razor in position 3. The skin is stretched in the opposite direction of the blade.

First of all, the right side of the neck below the ear is processed, the blade is carefully moved towards the cheek. If your face is thin, it is safest to change the direction of the razor near the ear - behind the lower jaw.

After processing the cheek, the blade moves to the temple, then again from the cheek to the chin, while at the same time the hairs are cut off in the lower right part of the mustache and near the right corner of the mouth.

At the last stage, hairs on the neck are removed. The blade continues to move from bottom to top, in the direction from the Adam's apple to the chin.

Treatment of the left side of the face against hair growth

The left side of the face is soaped or simply washed. When processing the left side, the blade must be held in the second way.

The sequence of actions is much the same as shaving the right side. The razor moves from the neck up, near the lobe, the blade carefully bypasses the lobe and moves towards the temple.

After this, the blade is directed from the center of the cheek to the chin, then the left side of the mustache and the left corner of the mouth are processed. At the final stage, the hairs from the lower part of the neck to the jaw are shaved. Now the last detail remains - to treat the area around the mouth. Along the line of mustache growth, the blade moves along the growth - from top to bottom. Under the lower lip - the direction changes - from bottom to top. The razor should be held in the second way.

At first, it is likely that even after repeated treatment it will not be possible to cut off all the hairs perfectly; in this case, you need to soap your face again and cut off the remaining hairs against the growth.

Finally, be sure to watch the video on how to shave with a straight razor correctly. The master will tell you how to choose the right tools, prepare foam and shave your hair as safely as possible.

Warnings

If you have to shave for the third time, go around the area above your upper lip.
Never treat your mustache with movements from bottom to top, as you can injure your nose.
Never catch a razor while falling.
Don't walk around with an open razor.
The movements should not be cutting, only smooth and clear.
Before you start shaving, calm down and concentrate.

So, now you know how to shave with a straight razor correctly, photos and videos will help you more clearly study the technology and the sequence of actions.

If you are not yet ready to master the features of the technology, read the material - how to shave with an electric razor correctly.

For those who prefer perfectly smooth skin, we once again remind you of the basic principles of using a safety razor:

carefully study all three ways to hold the blade;
cut hairs only at a certain angle - from 30 to 40 degrees;
take care of the blade, it should be perfectly sharp;
At the first stage, cut the hairs in the direction of their growth, and then - against the growth.

The article "" talked about straight razors, but did not talk about how to shave with them. This article should remove the omission of such important information.

A little theory about shaving with a straight razor

Be prepared for the fact that the first time the result will be far from ideal, but over time your hand will get used to performing the movements perfectly correctly.
Never use a blade razor when you are in a bad mood, tired or upset, its use requires maximum concentration and absolute calm
For the first time, do not try to shave your entire face, start with even areas - the cheeks
The process is complex, so it will take weeks and even months to hone your skills

Safety rules for shaving with a straight razor

How to protect yourself:

Do not apply soap suds to pimples and raised moles to avoid damaging them during shaving.
Take care of your razor, otherwise it may become dull or rusty
do not use a straight razor if there is a defect on the blade
do not shave your face with a straight razor in a noisy environment, as any jolt or sudden movement can cause injury
Never throw or twist your razor unnecessarily
Always keep styptics on hand to treat cuts.

Basic principles of straight razor shaving

Sharp blade.

A straight razor should have a very sharp blade. The better the blade is sharpened, the easier it is to follow the shaving technique, and accordingly, the result will be better. A poorly sharpened blade will cause skin irritation.

How to properly stretch the skin.

The basic rule is to stretch the skin in the direction opposite to the movement of the razor. The action plan is as follows:

The skin is stretched with one finger; it is most convenient to use the index or middle finger.

The finger is located a few centimeters from the blade

The skin needs to be stretched before each movement of the razor. It is important! Pay special attention to areas where natural skin tension is minimal. First of all, this applies to the cheeks - if you don’t stretch the skin enough, you can get injured.

Blade angle and direction.

The tool should always move with the toe (head) forward, the angle of inclination is at least 30 degrees, but not more than 40 degrees. Movements should be light and relaxed. Only the hand should move - rhythmically and often. If you shave with your whole hand, the hair will not be cut, but will be pulled out, and this is painful and causes irritation.
In order to obtain the required angle of the blade, it is applied flat to the skin, and then, gradually lifting, the required angle is achieved.

The razor must be held correctly (this is described below).

There are three ways to hold a straight razor.

A) The little finger is on the notch, the thumb is at the bottom of the neck and rests on the heel, the remaining fingers are on the earl.

b) The little finger is on the notch of the tail, the thumb is on the earl, the remaining fingers are on the outside. This method is in many ways similar to the first. The difference lies in the direction of the blade - it is directed upwards.

c) The blade is directed upward, the middle and index fingers are located on the earl from the inside, the ring finger holds the tail, the thumb holds the butt in the part connected to the blade. Make sure the handle is in contact with your wrist.

Regardless of which method is chosen, the hair should be removed without effort; you should not put pressure on the blade.

How to shave with a straight razor

Before shaving, you need to prepare your face: take a hot shower or apply a steamed towel to your face twice for 5 minutes.

A high-quality procedure involves several stages: along hair growth and against hair growth. Before the second stage, the face is washed and soaped again.

Now let's look at each stage in more detail.

Movements begin from the temporal line, moving down to the cheek (I-1). The razor should be held in the first way. First, remove a little foam from the temple line - this is necessary to align the blade evenly. The skin is slightly stretched and the hair is cut off with a slight movement. In this way, a few centimeters are processed downwards, then you should move towards the jaw. Hair cutting must necessarily accompany skin tightening. Your finger should be 1–2 centimeters from the razor.

In the middle of the cheek, the blade is slightly turned towards the lobe, and the “guard” moves towards the jaw (I-2). It happens that in the corner of the jaw the hairs grow in different directions, in this case you should position the blade so that it shave according to the growth.

Having reached the bend of the jaw, the instrument is turned and continued moving down to the neck. In this place it is worth especially carefully cutting off the vegetation near the ear. Often there is a bulge or small folds of skin that are quite easy to hit with a blade and cut yourself. How to shave with a straight razor without getting injured? Use your thumb to push the ear a little to the side; if there are no folds, then when working near the ear you still need to close it a little with your hand.

Next, the instrument is taken in the third way. The razor is placed in the middle of the cheek so that its end lies below the cheekbone. This is how they shave, heading towards the lips. At the same time, passing along the jaw bulge and capturing a small part of the face in the area of the mustache (III-3). Approaching the corner of the mouth, the tip of the razor should be lowered a little lower so that it eventually matches the line of the mouth. Next, the blade passes in the area of the so-called spicules (hair that grows near the lower lip). It is not always possible to shave them off the first time, since they are located in a small depression. In this case, a simple trick will help: you need to slightly lift this place with your tongue. A bulge will form that will be easy to shave off.

When shaving, you should always help yourself with your facial muscles and tongue. This makes shaving much easier and prevents injuries.

The third method is to cut the hair down to the center of the chin until the tip of the “guard” and the nose are in one line (it’s even better to move the razor a little further than this line). You should be especially careful in this area of the face: the chin is difficult to shave, so you need to hold the razor correctly.

Then the tool is taken using method No. 2 or No. 3 and the hair is cut from the chin to the lip (II-III-4). Here you should be extremely careful and stop the razor in time. Otherwise, the blade will cut into the lower lip, which has a small protrusion.

There are several areas on the face that are susceptible to injury: the Adam's apple, the ear and the lips. In these places you should shave with special attention.

The next stage is shaving the mustache. This is a difficult area: here the hair grows from top to bottom and, according to shaving rules, the blade should descend from the nose to the upper lip. But this is difficult to do, because the area of skin is too small. There is also a high probability of hitting your lip and leaving a cut.

A person who shaves himself can help himself a little with his facial muscles and make the skin, where necessary, a little wider and smoother. Or pull the tip of the nose with your hand, in which case the skin will also stretch out and become smooth.

The razor is held in the mustache area using the first method. The hair is cut with light and short manipulations of the tool (I–5).

The side part of the mustache is shaved from right to left (III–6). Only the tip of the razor is involved in the work. The instrument is held in a third way. The blade goes to the middle of the mustache; if you shave higher, you can injure your upper lip.

Then the vegetation is cut off from the chin to the middle of the jaw (I–7). The razor is held in the first way. Here the skin is stretched a little differently than usual: this time the skin is stretched in two directions. This is easy to do with two fingers. One stands on the chin, and the second on the jaw, the razor is between them. It should be borne in mind that in this case the skin becomes less elastic, which means that the risk of injury increases. Therefore, at this stage you need to work with the tool easily, without pressure, and maintain the angle of cutting the hair. When going through this area, you should remove hair slightly lower than the jaw bone.

The final step in shaving this part of the face is the neck (I–8:10). Here it is worth paying special attention to the skin in the Adam's apple area, where cuts often occur. To avoid them, the following trick is used: the skin from the Adam's apple is pulled a little to the side and shaved there. The instrument is held in the second way.

When shaving “hair by hair”, you should monitor the quality of work. The face should be clean, without clumps of hair or shaved areas.

A straight razor is taken using the first method. The toe of the razor is placed so that your hands do not interfere with your view. Shaving with a straight razor starts from the temple (I–1). First you should shave 20-30 mm from the edging line. It is important that the cut lines on both sides are at the same level. To do this, it is convenient to navigate along the conditional eye line. The blade should rest on your temple approximately parallel to this guideline. From the temple, the razor moves down to the cheek.

Next, shave from the middle of the cheek down to the chin (II-2). The razor is placed slightly below the cheekbone so that the cutting edge creates a conventional line from the eye to the lobe. Along the path of the razor, hair is shaved off in the area of the ear pads and the lower part of the left mustache. The razor should be held in the second way. If the blade cannot cover the entire soaped surface at once, then after the first pass with the razor, the procedure should be repeated, capturing the soaped areas.

During this stage of shaving, half of the mustache is shaved off. But sometimes this is not enough, and you need to help yourself by lifting the tip of your nose and removing hair (I–3). In this case, the first method of holding the razor is used.

Based on the correct shaving technique with a straight razor, the next step is to trim the remaining hair in the mustache area. This is done from left to right with small advances of the razor. Vegetation is trimmed from the side in the direction of its growth. The razor is held in the second way (II–4).

Then the blade is placed near the lobe and the hair towards the chin is removed (II–5). The skin is stretched diagonally - up and towards the ear. If your face is thin, then shaving below the jaw only tightens the skin upward.

If during the first approach it is not possible to remove hair across the entire width of the area, then the procedure should be repeated again, but this time going through those places where soap “islands” remain.

Working with the right side of the face, it is possible to almost completely shave the area from the top of the chin to the lip. But if there is still unremoved hair there, now is the time to remove it. The razor is taken using method No. 2 or No. 3 and the vegetation is removed (II–III–6).

Next you should move on to shaving your neck. First, they pass the blade from the chin to the Adam's apple, going around it on the left side. You cannot shave the Adam's apple itself; as mentioned above, this can cause cuts. You need to pull the skin to the side and only then remove the hair. Then the remaining areas of the neck are shaved. In one approach, you should shave a narrow strip of hair (I–8:10), place the razor in the lower part of the jaw and move it until the end of the hairline. The razor is held in the first way.

Sometimes the hair at the very bottom of the neck grows in the opposite direction - from bottom to top. How to shave with a straight razor here: you need to change the direction of the tool, and you need to take it with a second move.

A repeat step is necessary to remove remaining hairs and bring the shaving process to perfection. Before doing this, you need to apply foam; if the bristles are soft, just wash with warm water.

At the last stage, hairs on the neck are removed. The blade continues to move from bottom to top, in the direction from the Adam's apple to the chin.

The left side of the face is soaped or simply washed. When processing the left side, the blade must be held in the second way.

The sequence of actions is much the same as shaving the right side. The razor moves from the neck up, near the lobe, the blade carefully bypasses the lobe and moves towards the temple.

Here is a short video that can help you understand how to shave properly

Here is another video on how to properly shave with a straight razor from Boker.
Shot in the style of old silent films. The captions are in English, but the video shows the main points quite clearly.

Just a couple of years ago, close shaving could only be seen in films. However, now everyday life is not without extremes. Over time, the men decided to switch to a dangerous blade. Its use is not just about removing unnecessary vegetation from the face. This is a whole art with an adrenaline rush. And a craft that is not so easy to comprehend. We will consider instructions for its development in the article.

Using a straight razor is an art

The blade razor has an open blade. Its use resulted in multiple cuts. This is due to the fact that the procedure requires a thoughtful approach. There are several models of such installations:

heavy machines (manufactured from a solid metal plate);
lightweight designs (these options are easier to operate and affordable).

An ordinary razor includes a handle for easy holding and a work area. The head has a round, semicircular shape, and sometimes rectangular models are found on sale. Shaving with a straight razor, as well as maintaining this device, requires time and attention.

A regular razor includes a handle for easy holding and a work area

Narrow 4/8 type razors are used for activities in difficult to access areas. The size indicator in demand among men is 5/8. However, among the stronger sex it is not difficult to meet connoisseurs of class 7/8 or 8/8 blades.

Attention is paid to the geometry of the blade, which has the following variations of shapes:

biconcave;
wedge-shaped;
mixed.

Blade material – steel. It is also presented in a large number of varieties (the choice is made depending on the personal preferences of the man):

Damascus model (notable for its durability, reliability), has an eternal service life, but involves difficulties during the sharpening process;
carbon variety (the blade is sharpened to a scalpel, but steel material of this type is susceptible to the negative effects of corrosion);
stainless steel (sharpening requires labor and time, but the finished product is not afraid of corrosion and has a long service life).

Expensive antique versions with a handle made from elephant bone are available, but they are rare on sale and cost a lot of money.

Advantages and disadvantages of use

Using a straight razor has a number of positive aspects.

No irritation for sensitive skin. Some cosmetology specialists are convinced that the shaving method is safe and promises maximum benefits for the skin. This phenomenon is associated with the techniques used to cut hairs.
The shave becomes clean, because the tool differs in the level of sharpening. And in skillful hands, he will cut off the hair on a man’s face carefully in comparison with his safe brothers.
The ability to sharpen the blade yourself is another huge advantage of using this tool. There is no need to give it anywhere and pay crazy amounts of money to bring the product into usable condition.
The versatility of the product also plays a role. It copes with the same range of tasks as an electric razor, as well as a regular razor.
Durability is another factor. It provides enormous savings in money that could otherwise be spent on the constant purchase of conventional machines or the repair of electrical devices.

Now let's talk about the disadvantages. A significant disadvantage lies in the very name of the razor. Unprotected blade + inexperienced use = injury, and this is no secret. To avoid severe cuts, use the razor carefully. After all, unlike its classical counterpart, it will not forgive permissiveness, fussiness and efficiency.

Another nuance that spoils the picture is the lack of availability for sale (if we talk about high-quality instruments) and the high cost. But, having bought one device for a lot of money, you can forget about updating it for many years.

Now let's look at how to shave properly with a straight razor. Let’s make a reservation right away: you are unlikely to get a perfect result the first time; it will be very far from ideal. But you will gain invaluable experience in using the device at home. And below we will consider brief instructions that will allow you not to make a mistake and hone this difficult skill the first time.

Shaving with a straight razor for the first time will be far from ideal.

Here are some professional tips that you should use to improve the quality of your results.

It is prohibited to use a blade razor at a time when you are not in a good enough mood, tired, or upset. After all, using a tool implies concentration and complete calm.
Don't try to shave your face completely the first time. You should start with smooth areas - the cheeks. After all, the process of eliminating vegetation on “winding” parts is complicated, because they contain more hard-to-reach places. To hone your skills and habits, you will have to spend several weeks or even months on training.
Before moving on to the practical side of the issue, you should watch video instructions that will help minimize risks and reduce the level of harm.

A straight razor is far from the only item in the arsenal of a man who has decided to try a new method. Here's what you'll need to get quality results:

Actually, the product itself. You shouldn’t save money and buy the cheapest “made in China” razor, because they generally have uneven edges and imperfect geometry. And this equipment cannot be sharpened at all.
Blade straightening belt. Traditionally, manual-type hanging tensioners are used, but other types of straps are also suitable. In the selection process, it is necessary to focus on the presence of the fabric side.
Auxiliary beard care products. This is a specialized soap with good foaming, a shaving brush.
Optionally, during the shaving process, you need a towel to form a hot compress and alum, which provides protection from accidental cuts.

In order for the product to be securely fixed in the hand, it is necessary to ensure a full grip. When shaving, your arm and hand should become one. After all, all movements are performed exclusively by you, and not by the equipment. The tool must be stationary. There are two ways to hold the razor in your hand:

The sting is directed downwards. The next three fingers after the little finger “hug” the earla from above. The big toe is located below and supports the heel.
The sting is directed upward. The principle of operation of this method is similar to the previous one, with the exception of the position of the tip.

The main condition is the man’s comfort. He varies the location of the danger according to his own preferences. Another question is the location of the shaving unit relative to the skin of the face. Traditionally, the angle between them is 30 degrees, but only in theory. In practice this is not necessary. Please note: the greater the angle of the blade, the higher the aggressiveness indicator, and this implies not only a clean shaving procedure, but also a high risk of ingrown hairs, cuts, and skin irritation. Therefore, the acceptable angle value is 40 degrees; only at a certain angle can you avoid cuts.

A few words about choosing a straight razor

If you really want to learn how to properly use such a device, you need to arrange the purchase of the product. Preference should be given to the brands DOVO, THIERS-ISSARD, BOKER. These are perhaps the most expensive products in the segment under consideration.

The most affordable straight razors - Gold Dollar

If there are some budget restrictions, you can give preference to similar types of equipment that are more affordable. This is Gold Dollar. Of course, the quality of the products is somewhat inferior to the parameters of the most advanced brands, but in comparison with Chinese goods - “heaven and earth”. This razor is ideal for shaving beards of any type and shape.

Remember the importance of sharpening new devices. Vintage razors are unlikely to be any inferior to new expensive models. If we take into account the fact that in earlier times goods were made of higher quality, then antique razors can completely surpass modern ones. Most of them have already passed the test of time and have proven their high quality.

If you are new to this area, you should approach the choice of product consciously and turn not to the Internet, but to real stores, because from the photos and descriptions presented on the Internet, it is unlikely that you will be able to assess the true quality of the product, especially for a person who has encountered choosing a razor for the first time.

Basic principles of a perfect straight razor shave

We have already talked briefly about how to properly shave with a straight razor. All that remains is to summarize the basic principles and follow them unconditionally.

If you have never shaved with such a device, these instructions will help you and allow you to shave your face smoothly, avoiding scars, scratches, cuts, and inaccuracies in actions.

Correct shaving technique with a straight razor

Working with caution is a simple and intuitive process. But don't expect a perfect result the first time. The hand should “fill up” gradually. No rush or fuss! At first, the shaving procedure will require tremendous endurance and calm from you. Stay alert and focused. An important role is played by the choice of time for the procedure: nothing should distract you from your lesson, and it is important to provide a reserve of time.

The approximate technique for shaving with a classic straight razor is as follows:

Only the brush works. The razor must be strictly fixed.
Movements are made easily and smoothly. They should be frequent and beveled. Sharp swings of arms and sudden transitions are unacceptable.
The blade, due to its sliding ability, removes hair quite easily. No pressure or additional effort is required here.
In the process, the man must help himself by pulling the skin with his fingers in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade.
Before making the transition to a face with complex terrain, it is recommended to practice on an arm or leg.
The number of approaches should be no more than three. One is for hair growth, and one is against hair growth. Another one - across.

To understand the process, watch the video on how to shave properly. It will help you master the technique faster and effortlessly, and also look at a real example of shaving.

Before shaving

Before the procedure, the skin should be carefully prepared. For example, you can make a special compress under a hot cloth or apply a special product that is usually used before shaving. This will make your skin less vulnerable and prevent irritation at the end of the process. Next, you can proceed to applying foam. At the same stage, shaving accessories are prepared: we have already looked at how to hold them.

Shaving the right side

The process starts with hair growth. The beginning is from the line of the temple with a descent to the cheek. It is necessary to hold the shaving unit using the first method. First, the foam is removed in order to align the blade evenly. Then the skin is stretched and the hair cutting procedure begins. The movement is directed down towards the jaw. To make this happen smoothly and without consequences, in the center of the cheek the blade is slightly rotated towards the lobe.

Shaving the left side

The first razor position is retained. It is important to ensure that the blade head does not block your view. The movements also begin from the temple. The blade is lowered a few centimeters. The cuts located on the sides (right and left) should be located at the same level. The razor moves downwards towards the cheek (towards the chin).

Second phase

After processing each cheek (in stages), a cut is made in the mustache area. Movements are directed to the right. Hairs are cut from the side in the direction of growth. The skin must be pulled diagonally upward and towards the ear. The area above the upper lip lends itself well to treatment during cleansing of the right side. To cut hairs from the neck, use method 2 or 3.

After the procedure

After shaving, beginners should thoroughly wash their face using cold water, which will close the pores and leave the skin feeling fresher. Next, special skin care products are applied - a special moisturizing lotion, cologne or cream. This will help moisturize the skin and improve the appearance of a man.

Thus, proper shaving with a straight razor is an art that can only be mastered through hard work and diligent practice. Use these recommendations and get the best possible results! Shave with a straight razor like a real professional, and you won't be afraid of any cuts!