How to knit knit and purl stitches. Loop to loop - purl and facial loops. How to knit edge loops with knitting needles

08.03.2020

Knit and purl loops are the basis of knitting. In this article, we will take a closer look at the classic and grandmother's knitting methods.But before moving on to knitting methods, let's consider the structure of the loop itself and the options for the location of the loops on the knitting needle. These points will be very important for a complete understanding of how one method of knitting loops differs from another, what are the advantages and disadvantages of one or another method.

Loop structure

In the process of knitting the loop of the next row, the walls of the loop of the previous row remain parallel or turn and cross. Based on this, according to its structure, the loop in the web can be with parallel walls (straight loop) or with crossed walls (crossed loop).

On the left - a regular loop, on the right - crossed loops.

Straight and crossed loops - key concepts in knitting. The appearance and properties of a particular pattern depend on which loops in the canvas, straight or crossed. This is very clearly visible, for example, on the simplest, garter stitch. Look at the samples in the photo: the same number of loops were cast on for knitting both samples. The sample above - the loops are straight, it is looser and much larger in size. The sample below is crossed loops, the canvas turned out to be much denser and smaller in size.

By default, knitting instructions assume that the loops in the fabric are straight. If you need crossed - this is negotiated specifically. And here confusion arises, since with different ways of knitting loops, crossed loops are obtained in different ways.

The location of the loop on the needle

When the loop is on the knitting needle, one of its walls is located in front of the knitting needle (the front wall of the loop), and the other behind the knitting needle (the back wall of the loop). As a rule, the right wall is in the foreground, as in this photo. We will call such a loop right or reversed loop.

Right (not reversed) loop

In some cases, the left wall of the loop comes to the fore, and the right one is behind, as in the photo below. And we will call this loop left or reverse loop.

Left (inverted) loop

It depends on the location of the loop on the knitting needle how to get a straight or crossed loop. And how the right and left loops are obtained, we will consider below.

Knitting methods: classic and grandmother's loops

Babushkin and the classic methods of knitting loops are precisely methods, not types of loops. "Granny loops" and "Classic loops" are said for short. In fact, there are more knitting methods (see the video at the end of the page), but since these methods are common in Russia, we will focus on them. Often the classic way of knitting loops is called the first, and grandmother's - the second, there are other names, the terminology has not finally settled down. I use the terms "classic way" and "grandma's way" based on the book "The ABC of Knitting" by M.V. Maksimova. In my opinion, this is one of the best books on knitting technique. And its popularity speaks for itself: since 1979, the book has been reprinted more than 40 times in large numbers. The book is in demand and is still being reprinted. So the terminology adopted by Maximova is probably familiar to most knitters.

The classic way of knitting the front loop- the front wall of the loop of the previous row is picked up. The capture of the working thread goes from top to bottom.

Classic front loop. Please note - the loop on the needle is not reversed (right).

Grandma's way of knitting a front loop- the back wall of the loop of the previous row is picked up. The capture of the working thread goes from top to bottom.

Grandma's face loop. Pay attention - the loop on the needle is inverted (left).

The classic way of knitting a purl loop- the front or back wall of the loop of the previous row is picked up. The capture of the working thread goes at the top, above the left knitting needle. For convenience, the tip of the right knitting needle is wrapped around with a working thread. The working thread is pulled into the loop from top to bottom.

Grandma's purl loop -the front or back wall of the loop of the previous row is picked up. The capture of the working thread goes below, under the left knitting needle, with a scooping motion. The working thread is pulled into the loop from the bottom up.

Grandma's purl

Important: when knitting facial loops in both the classic and grandmother's ways, the loops turn out to be right (not inverted), when knitting purl loops in the classic way, the loops also turn out right, but the grandmother's purl turns out to be inverted (left). And here the dog is buried, because it depends on the location of the loop on the knitting needle how to get a straight or crossed loop.

Rule:

if you knit right (not inverted) loops for the front wall, we get straight loops, if for the back - crossed;
when knitting the left (inverted) loops, it turns out the opposite: to get a straight loop, we knit for the back wall, to get a crossed one - for the front.

As you can see, the classification of knitting methods for front and back loops is based on different principles: front loops are assigned to one method or another according to which wall they knit, and back loops, depending on how the thread is picked up, from below or from above. At first glance, this does not seem logical. But if you look at how to get a basic, stocking stitch from straight loops, you will see that the front and back knitted in the classical way correspond to each other, as well as grandmother's. That is, when the grandmother's facial and purl are combined in the front surface, the loops are straight: when the inverted loop, knitted by the grandmother's purl, is then knitted with the grandmother's front behind the back wall, the loop does not cross in the canvas. The same is true with the classic method: when knitting the classic purl, an uninverted loop is obtained, it is then knitted with the classic front over the front wall and the loop does not cross either.

Grandma and classic loops: pros and cons

And now let's see what are the pros and cons of the grandmother's and the classic way of knitting loops.

Purl loops in the grandmother's way are easier to knit. The loop turns out to be the same density as the front one, therefore, when knitting with simple patterns, primarily with front stitch or regular elastic, the fabric, as a rule, turns out to be smoother, and the work goes faster.In more complex patterns or when knitting in a circle, i.e. where knitting in the grandmother's way leads to the need to knit the wrong side behind the back wall, this advantage is lost, because knitting the wrong ones behind the back wall in any way is not convenient, and the density the purl loop is smaller than the front loop.

Knitting instructions, both in books and magazines, assume that you knit in the classic way. It is explained simply. No confusion with left and right loops. Loops always turn out right. Therefore, adherents of the classics are in a winning position: errors are minimized and there is no need to adapt the instructions to your knitting style.

In the photo: below, to the marker, the front surface is connected in the classical way, at the top - grandmother's. The row at the level of the marker is knitted with crossed loops.

Conclusion: how you knit is not critical. Knitting is a creative occupation, there are no rigid canons in it. You decide which way is more convenient and pleasant for you to knit. However, understanding the knitting technique will make your work easier and better. The main thing to watch out for is that crossed loops appear only where required.

From Olga Bogan's video tutorial, you will learn 8 ways to knit loops, figure out what crossed loops are and how to use them, and you will no longer have questions about knitting front and back.

There are many options for a set of loops to get started: from one or two threads; with a thickened or openwork edge; with fringe; from double loops, etc. However, from all this variety of ways, you need to choose one in which the edge of the product will be successfully combined with the knitting pattern.

Method 1. A set of loops of the initial row from one thread - air loops (Fig. 1)

In your right hand, take the end of the thread and one knitting needle. Hold the continuation of the thread in your left hand between the little finger and ring finger and then place it on the index finger.

Insert the needle with the point towards you under the thread on the index finger. Drop the resulting loop from the index finger and tighten on the knitting needle. Cast on all other loops in the same way, trying to tighten them with the same force.

This method is usually used when you need to get a very thin edge of a knitted fabric (useful knitting tips).

Try to dial them 20-30 loops.

Method 2. A set of loops of the initial row of two threads (Fig. 2)

Perhaps this is the most common way.

Place the thread from the ball in the left palm (Fig. 2.1). The length of the hanging end should be twice the width of the fabric for which the loops are being cast. Circle the thread around the thumb of the left hand counterclockwise (Fig. 2.2), then place the thread on the bent index finger and then hold it in the left palm along with the end of the thread (Fig. 2.3).

Two knitting needles folded together, enter under the thread from the inside of the thumb (Fig. 2.4), turning the knitting needles to the right, grab the thread from the index finger (Fig. 2.5) and pull it into the loop on the thumb (Fig. 2.6).

After that, drop the loop from the thumb, immediately bring it under the thread and, pushing the thumb and forefinger in opposite directions, tighten the loop tightly on the knitting needles (Fig. 2.7) - the 1st loop has formed.

Now, without dropping the threads from the fingers, move the thumb of the left hand to the left, which will make a loop on it (Fig. 2.8). From the palm side, insert the needles into this loop from the bottom up (under the front thread), grab the thread from the index finger and pull it into the loop.

Figure 2.1

Figure 2.5

Figure 2.2

Figure 2.6

Figure 2.3

Figure 2.7

Figure 2.4

Figure 2.8

Then repeat the same movements as when forming the 1st loop, the 2nd loop turned out on the knitting needles. Follow the next loops in the same way as the 2nd. To prevent the lower chain (the base of the loops) from twisting around the knitting needles, hold each new loop with the index finger of your right hand. For training, dial 30-40 loops.

Method 3. A set of loops of the initial row with a thickened lower chain (Fig. 3)

They pick up loops on 2 knitting needles in the same way as in method 2, with the only difference being that the end of the thread from which the loop on the thumb is formed is folded in half (the thread lying on the index finger remains the same thickness). With this set, the loops of the initial row are obtained with a thickness of one thread, and the lower chain is 2 threads.

The thickened edge is used for mohair models, to reinforce the bottom edge of the knitted fabric in casual wear, etc.

For more complex cast-on options that require a certain skill to work, you can get acquainted in lesson 5.

Facial loops

The structure of the front loop (Fig. 4) allows you to perform it in two ways: behind the front wall (method 1) and behind the back (method 2).

Method 1. Knitting the front loop behind the front wall

This method of knitting the front loop is considered to be classic. In the literature on knitting, it is he who is meant, of course, if there is no reservation that the loop should be done differently. Knitting and purl knitting is often used for toys, see this mouse knitting for example.

Exercise 1. Garter knitting from front loops knitted behind the front walls

This knitting is also called rep, rope, ryabushka, beds. In Russia, scarves were knitted for them, so the name “shawl” is still preserved. It looks the same on both sides (two-sided), so it is often used when knitting collars, trims, scarves, etc. Experienced knitters themselves came up with beautiful patterns with knitting needles.

Cast on 29 stitches on 2 needles stacked together and pull up one of the needles. Take the knitting needle with cast-on stitches in your left hand (left knitting needle), and the working knitting needle (right) in your right hand.

The thread coming from the ball should lie on the index finger of the left hand, pinched between the index and middle fingers and then between the ring and little fingers.

Before knitting the 1st front loop, you need to remove, without knitting, the extreme loop - the edge loop. To do this, enter the working knitting needle into it from right to left (Fig. 4.1) and transfer the loop to it, while the thread lies on the left index finger. We will agree that in the future, at the beginning of each row, we will remove the extreme loop without knitting (for now we will knit the last loop).

In the process of knitting, these loops play an auxiliary role: they form an edge from the edges of the fabric. Edge loops do not participate in the construction of patterns, and therefore are not included in the count of the loops from which the pattern is built.

For example, if it is indicated that 25 loops need to be dialed, then only 23 of them form a pattern, and 2 are hem (one on each side of the knitting). Therefore, it is customary to consider the 1st loop the one that is located next to the edge.

After the edge loop is removed, insert the right knitting needle into the next loop from left to right (Fig. 4.2) and, grabbing the working thread from the index finger, pull it into the loop, transfer the new loop from the left knitting needle to the right. In the same way, knit all the remaining loops of the initial row. The 1st row was formed. The left needle has been released and will now become a working one.

To knit the 2nd row, take the free knitting needle in your right hand, and turn the work with the opposite side towards you and place it in your left hand. As before, remove the edge loop without knitting, and knit all the remaining loops with the front ones for the front walls. Similarly, all subsequent rows begin and knit. When the height of the knitted fabric reaches half of its width (for example, if the width is 10 cm; knit 5 cm upwards), stop work and leave the knitting on the knitting needle. For the next exercise, prepare a thread of the same thickness, but of a different color (preferably a contrasting one).

Please note that the first 12 exercises, which will help you learn the basic elements of hand knitting, must be performed in the form of a single piece of fabric with the same knitting needles and a thread of the same thickness. At the same time, the number of loops for each next exercise remains deliberately unchanged - 29.

Such conditions are not accidental. The fabric that you knit with different patterns from the same number of loops will not be the same in width, since each type of knitting has its own specific properties.

The proposed method of doing the work will help you visually get acquainted with some features of the knitted fabric and teach you to be more attentive to the choice of patterns, especially if they have to be combined in one model.

Exercise 2. Garter knitting a strip . Continue knitting the fabric with front loops behind the front walls, changing the color of the thread every two rows, break the thread at the same time. Starting to work with a thread of a different color, knit it with an edge front loop. This is a rare case when the edge loop is not removed, but knitted. After completing the work, leave the knitting to the knitting needle.

Method 2. Knitting the front loop to the back wall ("grandmother's" front loop)

"Grandmother's" facial loops are used in hand knitting only in certain cases, this is usually negotiated. In the knitting literature, they are called differently: straight loop; facial, knitted for the lower lobule; front, picked up from behind; front for the bobbin thread, etc.

All names are conditional, and it is difficult to say which of them can be considered the most successful.

Exercise 3. Garter knitting from facial loops knitted behind the back walls.

This knitting is somewhat denser than the previous ones. It is inconvenient to knit the front loops due to the structure of the fabric (the walls of the loops at the base are crossed).

1st row and all subsequent - facial loops.

Work on the same canvas. The position of the fingers and the thread is exactly the same as when knitting with the front method 1: remove the edge, enter the knitting needle from right to left into the next loop (Fig. 4.3) and, grabbing the thread from the index finger, pull it into the loop, transfer the new loop from the left knitting needle to the right .

With “grandmother’s” knits, knit the fabric of the desired height and leave the work on the knitting needle.

Before moving on to lesson 2, carefully read the practical tips for lesson 1. Keep them in mind when crocheting the training fabric. Having practiced enough, begin the exercises placed in the next lesson.

Instruction

Dial the initial row. The number of loops depends on the width of the intended. Unwind a thread of the appropriate length from the ball - usually two widths of the part. Take the thread in your left hand, pass it between the middle and index fingers and circle the thumb. With the other three fingers, you will hold it together with the thread coming from the ball.

Cast on loops with two folded together. Insert the needle into the loop on your thumb, grab the yarn and pull it through the loop. Remove the thread from the big one, and pull the resulting loop slightly. In the same way, make the next loop, lightly holding the first - and the rest. After the required number of loops has been cast on, pull out one knitting needle.

Leave the knitting needle with the initial row in your left hand, and take the free one in your right. With the index finger of your left hand, lightly hold the thread away from the ball. The very first loop of the hem loop is usually untied (with the exception of where a particularly inconspicuous fastening of parts is required). Remove the first loop, without knitting, in each row.

Now thread the end of the right knitting needle into the next loop, grab the thread thrown over the index finger and pull it into the loop. Thread the needle away from you, from right to left, through the loop. Now remove the knitted loop and throw it on the right knitting needle. In the same way, knit all the remaining loops, until the last one.

When you knit the last stitch, turn the work and start a new row. Don't forget to remove the first loop unknitted! Having connected several rows, you will see that it turned out the same on both sides.

Purl (classic dialing method). Master Class.

The purl loops, knitted in the classical way, are more loose and embossed. In order to get a "classic loop", the working yarn must be picked up with a knitting needle from the bottom up.
After knitting the number of loops we need with the knitting needles, we remove the first one on the right cn. as an edge (not knitting), the working thread should lie in front of the left cn. (yarn before work).
Now we introduce pr. cn. in the next loop on the left cn. movement from top to bottom. Now we need to capture pr. sp. the working thread, introducing it from right to left and away from you, we stretch it through the p. and discard the newly formed loop from l. sp., done!

"Grandmother's" dialing method. Master Class.

Purl two loops together. Master Class.

The “2 sts together” technique is quite often used, for example, when narrowing the canvas or when working with openwork patterns. In order for the drawing to come out even and neat, you should carefully monitor the inclination of the loops 2 p., along with the inclination to the right.

After a set of loops with knitting needles, we place our yarn in front and enter the right cn. from the inside inside the first, and then - the second loop with l. cn. (see the designation in the photo below):

Now we need to grab the working thread clockwise and pull the loop through both loops at once:

We discard the newly formed pet. on the right sp. and we knitted 2 sts together to the right.
2 p. together with a tilt to the left.

In this case, the yarn is located behind the fabric. After a set of loops, we drive, etc. cn. from the front side inside the first pet. with l. cn., we remove it as an edge - without knitting.

Then. the next loop on l. cn. vyvyazyvaetsya as front.

Now we stretch the item we received through the removed one.

So we knitted two pet. together: on the right sp. one pet., on the canvas the second pet. will go under the first, the first will be on top of the second with an inclination to the left.

We remove the loop on the pr. sp. and knit further according to the proposed scheme or description.

Elongated (removed) loops. Master Class.

This variant of knitting is carried out by simply removing the stitch. with l. cn. on the right without knitting. You can stretch it out for two or three or more rows, so we get a double (triple) elongated p.. Depending on the scheme of our pattern, removing the p. from l. cn. for example, the working thread can be placed both in front of the canvas and behind it, it can also be a loop with a crochet on the working cn.
So, let's get started: after tying p. with knitting needles, we place our yarn behind the removed p.:

or before the removed item:

according to the description of the diagram.

When we make patterns with threads of different colors, where there are elongated stitches, we can get a jacquard effect.

If pet. it is necessary to remove several rows, then when capturing the right joint. it is better to wrap the working thread two or three times, this will lengthen the stitch, without squeezing the canvas.
The edge loop in these patterns, if it must be long, is done in a chain.

This method of removing (pulling) loops using a double or triple grip gives us stitches of various heights. With the help of such a removal of stitches, we can get patterns resembling openwork, if in subsequent rows we immediately knit these stitches without creating broaches in front of or behind the stitches.

We hope you find our lesson useful. Happy knitting and even loops!

Since ancient times, handmade items have been valued dearly and were in high demand. Everyone aspired to learn some kind of handicraft in order to provide themselves and their relatives and friends with exclusive clothes, fakes or original interior items.

Hand knitting is one of the most common types of needlework. With such skill, you can look stylish and fashionable without any special financial costs. Scientists say that this is not its only advantage: while knitting, a person calms down, relaxes and is distracted from disturbing thoughts.

This article contains sequential lessons that describe in detail how to learn to knit. For beginner needlewomen, it will be a real help.

Lesson #1

For those who are just starting to master the knitting technique, it is necessary to familiarize themselves with the tools with which the process is directly carried out.

The first thing with which knitting of any knitwear begins is a set of loops with knitting needles. In order to know how to choose them correctly for a certain type of knitting, you need to understand the main types.

Standard (regular) knitting needles

This type is used for all types of knitting, except for circular. They are made from lightweight materials such as plastic, metal, aluminum, wood. They differ in thickness, from 1 mm to 25.5 mm, and in length. They have one working edge, on the other there is a tip that acts as a limiter.

stocking needles

They are used for circular knitting, in particular socks, since it is not recommended to knit them with 2 knitting needles. They are sold in packs of 5. They have two working edges. The knitting process is carried out as follows: the product is located in an equal number of loops on 4 knitting needles, and the next rows are knitted on the 5th.

Knitting needles for patterns "braid" and "harness"

Due to the bend in the middle of the needle, their use greatly simplifies the process of crossing loops. Their diameter can be 2-4 mm, selected according to the thickness of the yarn.

Marking clip

With its help, control the number of loops or mark a specific place on the product.

circular needles

They are 2 working tips connected by a metal or silicone fishing line. They are used for certain patterns, circular knitting, or when the fabric has a sufficiently large width.

Pin

It is used to remove loops that at a certain stage do not need to be knitted. The dimensions of such a device can be different (10-15 cm).

Lesson number 2. Introduction to the types of yarn

Opening fashion magazines, you can see that clothes, depending on the seasonal destination, are knitted from different types of yarn. Seeing such beautiful things, every second person asks the question: “How to learn to knit?” For beginner knitters, a lot of information has been published with a detailed step-by-step description. However, in order to create a truly beautiful and original thing, you will need to choose the right yarn for it.

Wool thread

Refers to natural species. Sheep wool is used for its production. Differs in a wide choice of color scale. Winter things are mainly knitted from it, suitable for any kind of pattern.

Cotton yarn

Ideal for any type of knitting. It is pleasant to the touch, does not cause allergies. A product made from such a thread has a chic look.

Melange yarn

It consists of a percentage of synthetic and natural threads. Due to its texture, the products are lush and airy. Looks great on volumetric drawings.

Mohair

Designed for knitting warm things. This thread is very fluffy, so it is not recommended to use it for those things that are directly adjacent to the body. The most relevant for her are large drawings.

fancy yarn

It is made by observing a certain technology, which consists in combining threads of different texture, color and quality.

Lesson #3

When starting to knit any fabric, you will need to make a set of loops with knitting needles. To do this, a loop is made of yarn, which is thrown over the thumb. One end of the thread passes through the index, and the other just goes down. After that, both threads are fixed with the remaining three fingers. Having thus secured the yarn, loops are made with the help of a knitting needle, from which the fabric will be knitted directly.

1st step

2nd step

3rd step

4th step

5th step

Lesson number 4

Having learned how to set the first row, you can proceed to the main type of knitting - facial loops. They are fundamental to any drawing. In order to get a front loop, the thread is knitted with knitting needles in a certain way. To do this, hook the loop on the back wall with a free knitting needle and pull the working thread through it. If the drawing indicates the method of knitting for the front wall, then a similar manipulation is performed, only the upper part of the loop is captured with a knitting needle.

Lesson number 5. Purl loop

The next stage in the development of knitting technique is purl loops with knitting needles. They can be knitted in two ways - behind the front and back wall. The more common type is the classic. To do this, the working thread is thrown over the canvas, the front part of the loop is captured with a knitting needle, through which the thread is pulled, which forms a new purl loop.

Lesson number 6. Nakid

Nakid - air loop. It is formed by throwing a working thread, sticks with a finger, the subsequent front loop is knitted with knitting needles, like a regular one. On the side where the purl loops are, the yarn is knitted with knitting needles without twisting, so that a hole forms. This knitting technique is used to create a product with an openwork pattern.

Lesson number 7

When knitting any fabric, you need to pay attention to the first and last loops. They play a major role in the production of a quality product. Thanks to the implementation of a certain technique, the canvas has smooth and unstretched edges. Edge and edge loops are knitted in the following order. At the beginning of the row, the first one is removed without knitting, and at the end the last one is knitted with a front loop.

Lesson number 8. How to knit an elastic band with knitting needles? Types and description

There are many different ways to knit elastic. As a rule, almost any product begins with it, so it is very important to learn how to knit it correctly and beautifully. The main condition for her is not to stretch the loops in order to maintain a good density.

So, how to knit an elastic band with knitting needles, we will analyze simple options.

Elastic band 1 x 1

The simplest kind. First row: 1 front loop and 1 purl alternate. Subsequent rows are knitted according to the pattern.

Elastic band 2 x 2

It is knitted as the first option, only the row consists of 2 purl loops and 2 facial loops.

Double gum hollow

In order to tie it, it is necessary to sequentially alternate 1 front, 1 loop to remove without knitting. So knit on both sides of the product.

English gum 1 x 1

This option is more difficult for a beginner, but you can try.

An even number of stitches are cast on the needle. Next knit as follows.

1st row: 1 front, on the next loop, yarn over and remove to the working knitting needle, so alternate.

2nd row: a loop with a crochet is knitted with the front one, and the next one is double crochet and removed, repeat to the end.

3 throw: from the beginning of the pattern.

Lesson number 9. How to learn to knit? For beginners: scarf knitting

Having learned the basics of knitting, it's time to try your hand at making a small accessory. You can already decide to knit a scarf with knitting needles for yourself or your family. Such a gift will be the most desired for them. Any patterns with knitting needles are suitable for him. Width is an individual value: if for a child, then 10-20 cm, for adults - from 15 cm. The length can vary from 1 m or more.

For a scarf, you can use threads of various thicknesses and colors, the main thing is that it is in harmony with the rest of the clothes.

As a pattern, those that do not have a wrong side are better suited.

An example of a simple scarf with a checkerboard pattern is shown below.

Description:

The number of loops should be a multiple of 5, plus 2 edge.

1st row: 5 persons. p., 5 out., Alternate to the end of the row, knit the last one with the front.

2nd row and all even: according to the drawing.

3rd row: alternate 5 persons., 5 out., edge front.

5th row: knitted like 3rd.

7th row: 5 out., 5 persons., copied to the end of the row, the last edge.

9th, 11th rows: knit like 7th.

13th row: play from the 1st row.

Scheme of the pattern "Chess

■

□

■

□

■

□

■

□

■

□

■

□

Lesson #10

Any patterns with knitting needles can have a description or diagram that tells you exactly how to knit this pattern. From the previous lesson, you can see examples of descriptions and diagrams. However, in order to understand what is written, you need to familiarize yourself with the conventions and learn how to read the diagrams correctly. At first glance, they seem incomprehensible, with some kind of squares, rhombuses, arrows, triangles.

However, this complexity is deceptive; it is not difficult to deal with standard abbreviations. In any edition of a magazine or book, there is always a paragraph “Conventions”, as a rule, all abbreviations in the text and the symbols used are deciphered in it.

For example, the main ones are:

persons. - front loop;
out. - purl loop.

Looking at the diagram under the vending pattern, you need to look for symbols. They can be printed at the end of the book or just below the diagram.

For example, it looks like this:

. - edging;
□ - purl loop;
■ - front loop;
▲ - 3 loops together;
Ώ - nakid.

Lesson number 11

We will describe simple patterns that need to be knitted, we will place the schemes side by side for better perception. Trying to connect the proposed drawings, you need to try to understand the symbols as much as possible, since the quality of the entire product will depend on this.

Pattern "Diamonds"

Scheme No. 1

19	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
17	□	■	□	□	■	□	□	□
15	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
13	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
11	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
9	□	■	□	■	■	□	□	□
7	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
5	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
3	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
1	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■

Description:

1st, 3rd, 5th rows: 6 out., 2 persons.

2-20th rows: according to the drawing.

7th row: 2 persons., 4 out., 2 persons., 2 out.

9th row: 2 out., 1 person., 2 out., 2 persons., 3 out.

11th, 13th, 15th rows: 2 out., 2 persons., 4 out.

17th row: 1 out., 1 person., 2 out., 1 person., 3 out.

19th row: 1 person., 4 out., 1 person., 2 out.

21st row: repeat from the beginning.

For symbols for diagrams, see lesson number 10.

Pattern "Asterisks"

Description:

1st row: from 3 loops, knit 3 facial loops *, 1 person.

2nd, 4th rows: out.

3rd row: 2 persons., from 3 loops 3 facial, 1 persons.

5th row: as 1st row.

* 3 of 3 loops - 1 person., yarn over, 1 person.

Pattern "Tangled"

3	□	■	□	■
2	■	□	■	□
1	□	■	□	■

Description:

1st row: 1 out., 1 person., duplicate to the end.

2nd row: 1 person., 1 out., Alternate oppositely with the previous row.

3rd row: repeat from the 1st row.

Now the frequently asked question “How to learn to knit?” for beginners it will no longer be so frightening and incomprehensible. If you follow exactly the lessons provided, it will be possible to learn how to create original knitted masterpieces in a fairly short time.

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17	□	■	□	□	■	□	□	□
15	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
13	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
11	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
9	□	■	□	■	■	□	□	□
7	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
5	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
3	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
1	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■

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17	□	■	□	□	■	□	□	□
15	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
13	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
11	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
9	□	■	□	■	■	□	□	□
7	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
5	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
3	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
1	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■

19	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
17	□	■	□	□	■	□	□	□
15	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
13	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
11	□	□	■	■	□	□	□	□
9	□	■	□	■	■	□	□	□
7	■	□	□	□	□	■	□	□
5	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
3	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■
1	□	□	□	□	□	□	■	■