Fitness and healthy lifestyle 

How to sew a flashlight sleeve long pattern. Modeling different types of sleeves

Lantern sleeves differ from the usual classic sleeves in that they are gathered along the upper part of the okta line. In the lower part of the sleeve, the lanterns are gathered on an elastic band, on the cuffs or simply on a bias trim.

The flashlight sleeve can be absolutely any in its width and length, it can even not be gathered at the bottom, but freely let go, as in the third picture in the top row (see photo collage below). You can make a weak assembly (a striped sleeve in the photo) or a very lush one (a red flashlight sleeve in the photo).

Today we will make a sleeve lantern of moderate splendor - a classic lantern. So let's get started.

Creating a pattern for the sleeve of a flashlight.

We take this standard pattern and find the middle in it - finding the middle is very simple - this perpendicular from the highest point of the eye of the sleeve. From the highest point of the eye we draw a line down.

Now, on both sides of this line at the same distance from it, draw the same parallel lines (Fig. 1)

We cut the pattern of the classic sleeve along the marked lines. We will get four pieces of the sleeve. We put them on a piece of paper an equal distance apart(Fig. 2). We choose an arbitrary distance - 3-6 cm - the greater the distance, the more magnificent the flashlight sleeve will be.

Now we outline the outline of the future new pattern.

The lower edge of the flashlight sleeve pattern can simply be in the form of a straight line (lilac line AB in Fig. 3). Or a semicircular downward curved line. Or like mine (see fig. 5 - red line) curved down on the back of the sleeve and concave upward on the front of the sleeve.

That's it - the pattern of the classic flashlight sleeve is ready.

note that assembly area when sewing the sleeve to the armhole, it is located only in the area where we expanded our pattern (Fig. 7).

There are many ways to sew a sleeve to the armhole of our dress or blouse.

Method 1.

First, we manually make folds on the sleeve part itself - we assemble the sleeve part even before sewing it to the armhole. When forming tucks and folds, you need to constantly apply the part of the sleeve to the armhole so as not to pinch too much - otherwise, when it is sewn from armpit to armpit, it may not be enough.

Method 2.

We sew by hand to the armhole the front and back "axillary" parts of the armhole. That is, we tack the sleeve to the armhole in those areas where it does not shrug(Fig. 7 - okat line, where there is no yellow dotted line). Sewn on, and the rest of the sleeves evenly trim relative to the shoulder section of the armhole- the sleeve is already sewn to the axillary parts of the armhole without assembly.

Sewn by hand - now you can sew on a typewriter.

And gather the lower part of the sleeve to the cuff, or make a drawstring and pull the elastic into it, or sew the elastic along the edge of the sleeve with a zigzag stitch. That's actually all wisdom.

Pattern of a very puffy lantern sleeve.

Sometimes, according to the idea, it is very necessary that the flashlight sleeve be more magnificent. Then you should make adjustments to the pattern of the classic flashlight sleeve.

On the flashlight sleeve pattern, draw lines again - two on the front of the sleeve and two on its back (Fig. 9). And we cut these lines from below and almost to the very eye.

Then the cut pieces fan out at an equidistant distance from one another(Fig. 10).

We put our "fan" on a piece of paper and circle- as a result, we get a pattern of a puffy sleeve of a flashlight (Fig. 11).

It is sewn to the armhole of the product in the same way as a classic flashlight sleeve. With the only difference that below, to the cuff, it is gathered in larger folds than at the top, to the armhole.

In a special part of the cycle, I will tell, how to sew a lantern sleeve to an off-the-shoulder dress, that is, to a dress without an armhole or to a dress with straps.

www.coutureinthecity.com

How to cut and sew a fluffy sleeve with your own hands?

Whatever shape you want to sew a sleeve, it is based on a pattern of a regular sleeve, refined according to your figure. On fig. 1 shows how to cut a short, puffy sleeve. Cut the main pattern into six parts, push them apart - the more magnificent you want to make the sleeve, the more space should be left between the parts of the pattern. The head of the sleeve (between the second and fifth parts) must be raised.

How to make a pattern for a long, narrow sleeve with a high head is shown in fig. 2. Cut the main pattern of the sleeve into six parts, draw a control line and number the parts. On a blank sheet of paper, draw two perpendicular straight lines. Lay the cut pieces of the pattern on this sheet. First, the 3rd and 4th parts so that their control lines coincide with the horizontal line on the sheet. On the 1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th parts, make an incision along the control line and put them on the sheet so that the lower parts slightly overlap one another, and the upper ones diverge slightly. Thus, the sleeve narrows down, the top expands, the head rises. The lower part of the sleeve is made on the fastener.

The combined sleeve is shown in fig. 3. The upper part is a "flashlight". The lower one fastens only from below, the upper part of the fastener is fake. The lobes of the narrow part of the sleeve overlap slightly, and the tuck is cut out.

The description of sewing the puffy sleeve is taken with gratitude from the free supplement to the magazine "Worker" for 1971.

To be sure of the result, it is worth spending several months learning how to cut and sew women's clothing (link for Moscow).

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Sleeves in women's clothing are of great variety. And all the variety of sleeve cuts can be obtained using well-known modeling techniques. Consider some examples of obtaining various forms of sleeves based on a set-in sleeve. Using the same modeling techniques, you can get a variety of shapes for sleeves and other designs, for example, or.

Short flared flounced sleeve

A middle line is applied along which a segment equal to the length of the sleeve (20-45 cm) is laid off from the okat, and a bottom line is drawn through the marked point - horizontal if the sleeve is above the elbow, and a curve parallel to the bottom line in the main drawing of the sleeve if the sleeve is below the elbow .

Divide the line of the bottom of the sleeve into the required number of parts. From the division points, apply the cut lines to the collar of the sleeve (Fig. 1)

Cut the pattern along the applied shaped lines from the bottom line to the collar of the sleeve, not cutting to the end by 0.3 cm, and symmetrically push the parts of the pattern along the bottom line by 3-6 cm or as shown in Fig. 2.

The share thread should run along the line of the middle of the sleeve or at an angle of 45 degrees to it.

For flared sleeves with gathers at the collar and bottom cut the pattern along the applied shaped lines, and along the side parts - without cutting 0.3 cm to the collar of the sleeve.

Parts of the pattern are symmetrically moved apart along the bottom line and the rim, as shown in Fig. 3.

The “flashlight” sleeve is built by parallel extension of the set-in sleeve pattern cut into pieces.

For voluminous sleeve "flashlight" parts of the pattern move apart along the sleeves, as shown in Fig. 4.

Increase the height of the eye by 3-4 cm and lengthen along the bottom line by 2-5 cm.

Draw smooth lines around the hem and bottom of the sleeve.

For small flashlight sleeves cut the pattern along the drawn lines and push its parts along the bottom line less than along the sleeve hem (Fig. 5)

Increase the height of the eye by 2-5 cm and draw with a smooth line.

For puff sleeves cut the pattern along the marked lines from the edge to the bottom line, without cutting to the end by 0.3 cm (Fig. 6)

Move the parts of the pattern along the edge by 3-5 cm.

Increase the height of the eye by 3-5 cm and draw it with a smooth line.

For sleeves with puffs on an okat, narrowed down, cut the pattern along the marked lines from the edge to the bottom line, without cutting to the end by 0.3 cm.

Separate the parts of the pattern along the collar, and narrow the sleeve along the bottom line so that its width corresponds to the measurement of the girth of the arm at the level of the sleeve length plus 2 cm for a free fit.

Increase the height of the sleeve rim by 2-4 cm and draw it with a smooth line, as shown in Fig. 7.

For one-piece ruffle sleeves cut the pattern along the marked lines from the edge to the bottom line, without cutting to the end by 0.3 cm.

Extend the parts of the pattern along the rim of the sleeve to the entire width of the fabric so that the back and front cuts, respectively, are aligned with the longitudinal and transverse threads of the fabric (Fig. 8).

For frilling, add 7 cm to the sleeve okat (3 cm in finished form).

When processing a sleeve with a one-piece double ruffle, you need to fold it in half parallel to the hem of the sleeve and sweep it up, and then pick it up, grabbing the bottom layer of fabric.

The edge of the ruffle can be finished in various ways depending on the fabric: narrow seam, hemline, lace, etc.

Hello dear readers. Today we will talk about modifying the pattern of sleeves. Sleeves, as a set-in piece of clothing, appeared in Europe in the Middle Ages from Byzantium. Before that, drapery was used. In the 15th century, it was invented to unfasten sleeves and in this way diversify your wardrobe without spending a lot of money on buying expensive fabrics for the whole outfit. They were even given to each other, for example, ladies to their beloved, richly decorated. Throwing your sleeve into the arena during a jousting tournament was a sign of special admiration.

And how do you like the ban on the presence of more than three pairs of sleeves for each city dweller? Interesting, isn't it? The length of the sleeve could say a lot about the wearer of the suit. Long sleeves - in front of us is a person of a privileged class, short and rolled up - working people. And the peasant's elegant caftan had sleeves longer than usual to show his festivity. But such interesting sleeves were in vogue in the 18th-19th centuries.

An interesting sleeve in shape resembling a mutton ham, splendor and shape sometimes reached such huge sizes that they fell on the pages of magazines in the form of cartoons.

Photo from the site https://arzamas.academy/materials/493

Curious cut of the sleeves. Caricature by William Heath. 1829
© The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Modern designers, who are constantly looking for new solutions, forms, offer us such interesting options, of course, you can’t take them seriously and literally take them as a guide to action, but still, who knows, perhaps in the future such sleeves will adorn the dresses of fashionistas, and some of them are already being embodied in trendy outfits...

Photo sources https://www.elle.com/, https://www.popsugar.com/, https://www.livingly.com/

The cut of the sleeve determines the fit of the entire product and the way it is connected to the camp. There are only four of them: set-in, one-piece, raglan and combined (that is, consisting of a combination of any of the previous two). And there are many options for forms ... For example, the forms of a set-in - jacket, shirt (into a deep armhole), narrowed, extended, flashlight, winglet. In raglan sleeves - half raglan, zero raglan, raglan from the neck - these names indicate the place where the sleeve is attached to the base of the dress. They can also be with folds, sides, double, triple, etc. It is impossible to list everything. Let's learn today how to model the main types of many sleeves and consider the most interesting ones proposed by modern fashion. Our lesson will cover the basic modeling techniques, using which you can create your favorite outfits on your own.

Let's start with a set-in sleeve, for this we need, which we provide on our website for free. It is very easy to build a sleeve pattern: go to the page for generating a basic sleeve pattern, enter your measurements into the form and click the "Get Pattern" button. The pattern will be automatically built by our program, you just have to print it. Moreover, the pattern can be printed in full size on any printer! Even on an A4 printer. (More about printing in the FAQ section of our website)

There are a lot of types and shapes of sleeves, as we have already said, and having a basic pattern at hand, mastering the basic modeling techniques, as well as imagination and desire, you will certainly get what you dreamed of in the form of a stunning outfit of your own production. So let's get started.

Photos from sites https://us.burberry.com /, https://www.luvtolook.net/

Sleeve "flashlight"

Let us dwell in more detail on the sleeve "flashlight" or in another sleeve "puff" ( from the French bouffer - to inflate, bristle), its shape is determined by folds or gathering that create volume.

First, shorten the pattern to the desired length. Then, having made vertical (or inclined) cuts, we separate the formed parts of the pattern until folds or gathers are obtained according to the sketch.

Consider the sleeve modeled by Carolina Herrera in the 2013 collection. The sleeve has folds along the collar and a fantasy assembly. Shoulder pads are used to keep the shape. Let's take it and modify it, following the further recommendations:

1 step. Shorten the length to the elbow. Taper the sleeve along the longitudinal seams.

2 step. Draw a model line on the front of the sleeve and a line of cuts to model the assembly. Outline and draw lines to create folds along the edge.

3 step. Carry out detailing. Make new details of the sleeve pattern.

dress photo from https://lookbook.carolinaherrera.com/collection/fall-13/

Cap sleeve

Sleeve with filled head and extended to the bottom

Photo from the site.

Raglan sleeve

Types and shapes of sleeves of this cut have a very wide variety. It is named after the British Baron Eglan, who lost his arm in the Battle of Waterloo and was forced to wear specially tailored clothes.

F from sites https://live-breathe-fashion.tumblr.com, https://us.burberry.com/women/ ,https://www.vogue.com

When modeling this cut, the sleeves use the already familiar pattern-basis for the design of products with a set-in sleeve. Their patterns lie, you just need to choose the right one for your model. Let's take . It is necessary to additionally take into account a few nuances - firstly: The increase in the chest is usually increased by 1-2 cm in products of moderate volume, by 2-6 in products of large volume; secondly: it is necessary to balance the product (to increase the freedom of fitting in the area of ​​​​the shoulder and the armhole at the back, i.e. to increase the line of the neckline and shoulder of the back by 0.5-2 cm. And to make an additional change in the pattern of the set-in sleeve detail, the sleeve patterns you you can also take it on ours.

1. For the convenience of modeling, we will transfer the shoulder and chest tuck, on the details of the back and front to the middle of the details. You can see more details on how to do this.

2. We will increase the line of the neck and shoulder of the back, see fig.

3. Draw raglan lines on the shelf and back (in this product, the American designer brand Badgley Mischka, the raglan lines go from the neck). Cut along the marked lines.

4. The shoulder parts of the front and back obtained during the modeling of raglan should be combined with the details of the sleeve.

5. Let's return the tucks to their original position, or to the position according to the requirements of the technical drawing or sketch of the model.

Let's take a look at the modeling of the raglan-based "winglet" sleeve in a dress from the Elie Saab collection. photo from the website https://blinchic.blogspot.ru

STEP 1. We have sorted out a little higher.

Step 2. Let's draw additional model lines on the details of the back and front, these are shaped lines of reliefs, on the details of the sleeve - cut lines for further modeling and a line for changing the length of the sleeve.

Step 3. Separate the resulting parts of the sleeve pattern in such a way that a sleeve of the required shape is obtained, but the tuck for the roundness of the shoulder on the sleeve still remains (a gap of approx. 3-4 cm) and it is not necessary to close it completely.

One piece sleeve

The sleeves of this cut can also be completely different: voluminous, tight-fitting, long, short ... sheer or soft. For the sleeves whose modeling we will consider, the upper section of the sleeve is a continuation of the shoulder line, which determines their soft shape. The depth of the armhole for such sleeves can be significantly increased, up to the waist, and in some cases even to the level of the hip line. Products of this cut are of moderate or large volume, so we need, which contains an increase, relative to the base of the adjacent silhouette, an increase in chest girth.

1. In order to avoid the transition of the shoulder seam (sleeve seam) towards the back, you can transfer the seam by removing 0.5-1.5 cm from the shelf and add it to the back detail. This will also create an additional fit in the shoulder area.
2. To build a sleeve, you need to put aside the length of the sleeve on the horizontal line running from the shoulder.
3. At a right angle to it, set aside the width of the sleeve in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wrist (according to the model). The back of the sleeve should be wider than the front.
4. Deepen the armhole.
5. The line of the side seam, passing into the lower seam of the sleeve, draw a smooth curve.

Variant of a one-piece sleeve "bat"

Batwing sleeve dresses came into fashion in the 40s of the last century, during the Second World War. Then they had large shoulder pads, folds at the waist, made the figure a little bulky. In the 70s, they regained their lost popularity. Today, sleeves of this style can be seen on the catwalks of almost any world brand, in elegant evening dresses and clothes for every day, because dresses with a batwing sleeve are original, comfortable to wear and look very feminine, revealing all the beauty and plasticity of the fabric, showing the figure of a woman is most advantageous.

model photo from https://www.eliesaab.com/

So, dear readers, our lesson has come to an end. You have learned how to model the main types of sleeves, and if you have any questions (or want to make out some more styles), you can ask them in the comments, we will try to answer them. Thank you and good luck in such an interesting and creative business as creating clothes.

Flashlight - the style of the sleeve, sewn into the armhole with the formation of gathers and tapering at the bottom to fit the arm. Due to the originality of the pattern, it turns out to be lush and rounded. This piece of clothing got its name because of its resemblance to a street lamp. Less commonly, such a sleeve is called a buff.

Many people like the puff sleeve dress because of its lightness and romanticism. In this case, a buff can have both for a girl. A puff sleeve paired with an A-line dress creates a casual, youthful style. At the same time, it can be of various lengths and splendor, end with a cuff or an elastic band, be made of lace, organza and other light fabrics.

A-line dress: pattern

The construction of the A-silhouette pattern is based on changing the base drawing:

  1. Build a basic drawing (base pattern).
  2. Determine the desired length of the dress, mark it on the line of the middle of the drawing of the front and back (segment AB).
  3. Change silhouette. To do this, increase the width along the bottom line by 4-6 cm. Draw a straight line from the lower corner of the armhole to the marked point (segment HK).
  4. Adjust the bottom line by raising it along the side by 1.5-2 cm as shown in the figure (KM segment).
  5. Remove darts at the waist.
  6. Remove shoulder darts (if the chest is large, shorten it by 2-3 cm).
  7. Shorten the shoulder seam by 0.5-1.5 cm from the side of the armhole for a better fit of the lantern sleeve.
  8. Measure the side lines of the front and back, correct if there is a discrepancy in length.
  9. Design the neck line according to your own wishes. If necessary, mark the position of the fastener.

Cut out the finished parts and cut them out on the fabric from which the dress with the lantern sleeve will be made. The part of the shelf is one-piece, with a fold in the middle. The back can be either solid or made up of two parts with a seam in the middle.

Flashlight sleeve extended to the bottom

As a basis for a flashlight, extended to the bottom, a single-seam sleeve pattern is used:

  1. Build a base drawing.
  2. Draw a vertical line of the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 1.
  3. Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper, spreading the lower part along the cuts. The wider the gap between the parts of the pattern, the more magnificent the sleeve will turn out. For medium puff, the sleeve width should be doubled.
  4. Set aside 6 cm from the middle line (less - for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 1.

Such a pattern of a lantern sleeve requires a slight shortening of the shoulder seam of the base of the dress (0.5 cm).

Gathered flare sleeve at top and bottom

The base for the flashlight, extended along the collar and bottom, is also a pattern of a single-seam sleeve:

  1. Build a base drawing.
  2. Draw a vertical line of the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 2.
  3. Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper, spreading the cut parts parallel to each other at a distance of 6 cm for medium splendor. The gaps can be increased up to 8 cm for a larger volume of the finished sleeve, or, conversely, reduced to get a narrower version.
  4. Set aside 6 cm at the middle mark down (less - for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 2.
  5. Raise the collar of the sleeve by 2 cm (less - for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in the figure.
  6. Cut out the piece, cut it out of the fabric, adding allowances for the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, it is required to shorten the shoulder seam of the base of the dress from 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

The long puff sleeve is puffy at the top and at the wrist. Most often, this version of it is used in evening dresses and carnival costumes, however, you can also find it in everyday clothes.

Flashlight sleeve extended at the top

The pattern of the flashlight sleeve, extended from above, is made on the basis of the drawing of a single-seam sleeve:

  1. Build a base drawing.
  2. Draw a vertical line of the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 3.
  3. Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper. Extend the upper part of the sleeve, which will form a flashlight, to the desired distance.
  4. Raise the collar of the sleeve by 2-3 cm (less for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in Figure 3. This is necessary for a beautiful fit when creating assemblies. The bottom part remains unchanged.
  5. Cut out the piece, cut it out of the fabric, adding allowances for the seams.

Depending on the volume of the sleeve, it is necessary to shorten the shoulder seam of the dress by 0.5 to 1.5 cm.

The bottom of the sleeve-lantern can be decorated with lace, cuff, oblique trim.

Tailoring the base of the dress

A dress with puffed sleeves, which has an A-line silhouette, is sewn very simply and quickly. The whole process consists of the following steps:

Before sewing the sleeves-lanterns, the finished base must be ironed, check the presence of marks on the sleeves and measure the size of the armhole.

Tailoring and sewing in a flashlight sleeve

When the base of the dress is ready, you can proceed to work with the sleeve. Its sewing and stitching into the armhole consist of the following steps:

Knowing how to sew lantern sleeves, you can experiment with their width, length, as well as with the choice of the base of the product. This piece of clothing can look completely different on an adult woman and on a little girl's home outfit.

A flashlight is very relevant today. If it has an A-silhouette, then in the summer it will go well with flat sandals, and in the cold season with over the knee boots.