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Instructions for gluing city models. Making a paper model. Alignment and gluing of the wing planes from two halves

Observing safety precautions, we take scissors in our hands and cut out the figures strictly along the outer contour.

We will work with these details in the future.
Pay attention to the details themselves. There are three types of lines on parts, usually they indicate the following:
-dotted (they are dashes) - fold lines outward.
-dash-dotted (dot-dash) - fold lines inward.
-solid - cut lines.

We will discuss each type of line separately.
But first, we do the following: I personally take a blue pen and push the fold lines outward, apply a ruler and draw it with slight pressure, and then, in the same way with a pen of a different color, push the fold lines inward ... someone uses a pen without paste, or with dried paste.

There is also an option from guppy:

There is another option - cut a little paper in all places, a third or half the thickness of the paper, just hold it gently by pressing with a knife. On the dotted line (outward fold), the paper is bent very well and evenly (how exactly it was cut, so evenly it will bend).
On the dash-dotted line (inward fold) it is worse, because the incision is on the wrong side, but the main thing is just as even, although not so neat))) as a rule, there are more dotted lines and therefore the inaccuracy of the folds of the dash-dotted lines is not significant)))

All this is done so that the rigid drawing paper is bent at the fold without any problems. The main thing to remember is not to press too hard. You can simply cut through the paper. Let's return to the question of fold lines. How, after all, to understand which lines mean what and whether the sweep was made by a crooked master ... this is done simply - look at your sweep in the program, select any line on the 2D area, and check the bend on the 3D area of ​​the same line .. .well, that's all, if one dotted line bends outward, then all the dotted lines on this scan will bend outward.

For the convenience of gluing especially large (in terms of the number of parts) models, you can do the following: press the icon button "cube with orange lid and green arrow", or ctrl+K

In the window that appears, click Clear(Clear), after which you can select a part from the list, or from the right side in the sweep, you can also select a group of objects by holding ctrl.

After the lines are pressed through, we slightly bend the parts, according to the folds on the 3D model.
So, the CONTINUOUS lines on the development must be cut. Very often, such cuts contribute to the bending of the part, according to the calculated shape.
DASHED and DASH-DOTTED lines are fold points, however, remember that you need to bend the parts according to the 3D model, and not strictly at 90 degrees. I advise you to gently bend in the right direction. During gluing, everything will be bent as it should.
Bending the part and making cuts PLEASE REVIEW THE ELECTRONIC VERSION.

Well, actually the process of gluing. We take glue and, carefully spreading the valves, we glue the elements of the model. Tip - when gluing large models, start gluing with the smallest details. On the example of our mask, the bridge of the nose turned out to be such a place. In models where there are horns, claws, teeth and similar details ... start gluing from them, because. later on, they may not be able to get close.

For accurate gluing and quick search for details, the PD program provides for the numbering of faces and pages. Press:
2D Menu (2D Menu) - Show Flaps (Show Valves) - to display the valves.
2D Menu (2D Menu) - Show Edge ID (Show Edge Numbers) - display the number of the edge.
2D Menu (2D Menu) - Show Page Number (Show Page Number) - display the page number.

In order not to make a mistake when gluing, it is best for a beginner modeller to navigate by numbers (while not forgetting to look at the monitor, referring to the virtual model). We bring the edges along the lines and press them with our fingers. Waiting for the glue to set. That's all the magic. Good luck with gluing

The most accessible form of creativity is paper modeling. Adults are also involved in it, when developing models of buildings, and children at school in labor lessons, in “Skillful Hands” circles. When developing model scans, factories often use the same type of paper for both small and large parts, which is not correct, because it is convenient to make small ones from thin paper, and large ones from thick cardboard for their strength.

Materials and tools

To work on this model, you need to take tissue paper (thin tubes are convenient to make), sheets of paper, as in sketchbooks, paper for printing on a printer, whatman paper (for tools), ordinary cardboard and thick cardboard for the frame and all kinds of films for windows. For some models, you may also need wire of different thicknesses, threads, ordinary fishing line, slats, fabric.
The tools will also be different: a metal ruler, a knitting needle with a diameter of 2 mm, scissors and scissors, tweezers, wire cutters, a knife, an awl, a protractor, small awls, a skin. Paints are mainly used acrylic, varnish for such paints, nitro varnish, nitro thinner, epoxy resin, glue. This is not a complete list of tools, materials and paints for working on a model, in any case, before you start working, you need to carefully study and find everything you need, and only then start working. The model cutting itself can either be bought in a store or downloaded from the Internet.

It is better for novice modellers-designers to take something easy to start with, a boat, a boat, a minesweeper and do it yourself from start to finish. For those who just want to try their hand at modeling, you can do with the usual disassembly, for those who want to build an exact copy, you need to collect all the information, all proportions, including colors, photographs, characteristics. Do not be confused by the material with which you will work - paper, if you show an already made model and say that you built it yourself from paper, there will be no limit to strong surprise.

Assembling a paper ship model (example)

The manufacture of any model should begin with the case, because if you start with a trifle, then when your hands reach the main part, everything else can get lost and crumpled.
To work on the frame, it is worth taking not thick cardboard, but dense, so that it does not stick out and does not crumble during operation. On this cardboard we glue elements of the frame and other parts that require high density. After everything dries, carefully cut out with scissors, in some places you can help with an awl and a knife. In the event that it is necessary to make a cutout in the part, it must be remembered that the thickness of the cutout must exactly match the thickness of the cardboard in order to avoid deformation. The assembly of the frame, as a rule, begins with the deck, then the underwater part is assembled, and only after that the whole hull is assembled together. Then the rest of the details are assembled.

The next stage of assembly is the skin of the underwater part of the hull. It starts from bow to stern, you can start on both sides and finish in the middle. Working on the appearance of the surface part is a more responsible task, since there is no reinforcement here and it can easily bend. The skin is glued carefully, not fanatically pressing it to the body, otherwise no density of cardboard will save it from dents. For more experienced modelers, the body can additionally be pasted over with fiberglass, after sanding it and then soaking it with epoxy. After complete drying, the body must be primed and puttied, and repeatedly, the drying layers must be processed with sandpaper.

Coloring in paper modeling

Coloring the model can be done with a brush, or even better. You need to start painting from the bottom, since this is the main part on which the model stands on a stand. Be sure to check with the original and select the desired shade of paint. Do not forget about the waterline, it must be done after the painting of the hull is completed. Painting the deck and other details should be done last.

In this example, it can be seen that paper modeling not a very easy thing, but for beginners, you can limit yourself to simply assembling a ship model on paper, which is what children often do in labor lessons.

>> >> Paper modeling

To assemble the model, the actual model and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model with high quality, you will need a lot of tools, tools, mainly inexpensive ones - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is a good knife. A knife with a narrow blade is more suitable for working with model aircraft. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade in the process. In the role of a knife, a surgical scalpel has proven itself well.

Skin

To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of skins: with a larger grain for initial processing and very fine for finishing. It is advisable to use a waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn plastic. Water-resistant sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash off plastic filings.

Glue

The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It does not hurt to have a special glue for connecting transparent parts.

putty

Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all kinds of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

masking tape

Masking tape is widely used in the assembly of models. It can not only protect surfaces during painting or puttying, but also fasten parts during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.

Dye

A wide variety of model paints are available, from miter to water-based acrylics. Finishing is best done with acrylic or oil art paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be blown out with semi-matt varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives a matte finish, while the aircraft model should have a slight sheen.

brushes

For painting, you will need three brushes: thin, medium size and large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. Brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried after use.

Brush "Revell", marten, №4/0 Brush "Revell", №2

A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is best to have a separate large table for modeling, but you can also work on the kitchen when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice the defects of the models.

Instrument location

The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. to have it at hand. There is nothing worse than looking for a missing knife during the assembly process.

File and KP

Separated small parts are well stored in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not be lost. For files, it does not hurt to start an album.

Tweezers

In the kit of the combined model there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeler. Tweezers are indispensable in this case. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

Without an airbrush and a compressor, the vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the process of painting. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to do modeling more or less seriously. The airbrush and compressor will require the largest financial outlay, cut off from the family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the last - the most important !!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, however, in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) during the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.

Knife set

One model knife is sometimes not enough, it is better to get three: with a sharp, cut and rounded blades.

And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them in the tool store or on Aliexpress: .

"Extra Hands"

Small metal clips "alligators" help a lot in the work. Used by radio installers. They are good at holding small parts when gluing and painting.

When assembling and especially when finalizing a model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro-drill and a set of small diameter drills. The drill can also be used to process the surface of the model using different nozzles.

wire cutters

Separate parts from frames, bite off flash, etc. best of all with small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.

file

The model with cut control surfaces looks much more realistic than the one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by the linework. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punches of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, the Japanese circles of the “rising sun”. Painted identification marks are preferred over decals.

It is hardly possible to list all the tools necessary for assembling the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.

We buy a model

We have acquired a tool, now you can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stop at something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War period: the North Amerpyun P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero, or the R-public P-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models, you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.

The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they contain not so many details. For the most part, that Thunderbolt. that the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It is better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you have no experience, then why ruin an expensive model when you can ruin a cheap one?

After assembling several single-engine propeller monoplanes, you can proceed to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jets”, biplanes, as well as “whales” in 1:48 scale and above (if you have a desire and there is a separate apartment for finished models).

Examination

Having received a model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all parts, decals, and especially the cockpit canopy, stated in the instructions, are present. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.

If you find the complete match of the kit - thank the seller and run home to collect the model. At home, select the necessary tools and carefully lay them out on the desktop. You can move on to the next step.

Studying instructions

You will probably start studying the instructions along the way. This is by no means forbidden (but not welcome either - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instruction from a critical point of view. Its author has his own view on the model assembly process, you may have your own. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. do not rush to scold the author if you did not like something. Try to delve into the ideas that led the technologist to this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, not you?

Check for lice

The overall quality of the model is fairly easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. Cut off parts, so as not to lose, it is recommended to keep in a special box. Parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but in no case should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where the parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.

Fuselage assembly

So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.

Parts cleaning

On the castings, there may be traces of mold lubricant, and other grease stains, they should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts for ten minutes in warm water, then thoroughly scrub them with soap with an old toothbrush. Rinse in running water and leave to dry.

Cleanup

After the parts are dry, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper, go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place of gluing the halves absolutely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better adhesive adhesion. Clean also the places where parts are attached to the sprues.

It happens that one of the halves of the fuselage is molded with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after the fuselage is assembled. The second way is to take a small wooden block, wrap it with sandpaper and process the end of the fuselage rugs, sanding especially carefully in the area of ​​the protruding part. At the very detail, it is best to scrape not with a sandpaper, but with a half of a razor blade. Remove the burr with a model knife. In addition to the factory, a small “flash” may appear when sanding. Some plastics peel off. Pay attention to the flash not only on the ends, but also in the area of ​​​​the cutout for the pilot's cabin lamp, in the air intake hole, in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when a defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.

Lantern fitting

Fold the fuselage halves. They should fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat the stripping of the halves on the skin. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (as long as it can be fastened with rubber bands). The lantern, again, should fit perfectly "in place". Otherwise, carefully sand it to fit the fuselage. There are "deadly" options - the lantern is thicker than the fuselage. Well - with-skinned plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste, it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the lantern to a more than acceptable level.

Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American liquid for polishing floors. Adds transparency and shine to transparent decals.

It is much worse if a gap is formed between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the rear of the fuselage. Such a defect is “treated” with putty. The trouble lies in the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the putty from the inside with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a ship model in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when there is a huge cutout for the center section at the bottom of the fuselage.

Cab Interior Customization

It is time to separate the elements of the cabin interior from the sprues: dashboard, floor, rear wall. Fit the parts in place by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and dashboard are too wide for the glued fuselage halves. On some models, the cockpit side panels are molded integrally with the fuselage halves, on some models, the cockpit floor, together with the side panels, forms a kind of bathroom. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Get it in place.

Now cut off small details of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control knob. pedals, pilot seat. Clean them up and put them in a box so you don't lose them.

Cabin interior painting

Sometimes, in the process of building a model, it is necessary to paint individual parts or subassemblies, the cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removal of breakage, traces of pushers, cleaning of molding seams, washing, drying and degreasing.

Pay attention to the selection of paints for the interior of the cabin. Group the parts by color. Details that are painted in different colors are conveniently clamped in "crocodiles". Make sure that the alligator's "teeth" grip the parts securely - a jet of compressed air is quite capable of sweeping a loose part. First of all, the cabin itself is painted in the base color (most often these are the inner sides of the fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the “decoration” of the cabin: radio stations, trimmer controls, oxygen supply tap, etc. Most often, these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.

Before assembly, it is also worth painting the visible inner surfaces of the air intakes and engine cylinders.

Dashboard trim

The easiest way is to transfer the enclosed decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals, and almost all decals correspond to the realities by 20-30 percent at best. Much more realism is possible by painting the dashboard with a brush with water-based or oil-based paints. It is necessary to paint the dashboard in the base color even when using decals. It is easier to paint dashboards on which individual instruments are simulated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the devices are outlined with a lead pencil. In conclusion, a drop of liquid glass or at the worst end of colorless nail polish is poured onto the scale of the device; after drying, the varnishes or glass are slightly polished.

The instrument panel of the Thunderbolt was painted black, the instrument scales were painted white. Again, you will have to start by painting the dashboard in matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation of the scale of the device and “smeared” to the edges of the device. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.

The next step towards realism is the imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. Scales are drawn with a thin brush.

Cabin interior assembly

After painting the cabin interior elements, you can start assembling. Provided that the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from the physics course. Two parts are pressed tightly against each other, a drop of liquid glue is applied to the joint. A drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will turn out to be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on the painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.

It is most convenient when the interior of the cabin is made in the form of a "bath", as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and must dry at least overnight after gluing. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and lie down to fill up. If not, adjust with a familiar method of sanding, cutting and undermining excess plastic. After gluing the “bath” and lightly setting the glue, make a final check - put the fuselage halves together again, one of which has already glued the cockpit.

Assembly of the fuselage halves

Usually, the instruction recommends applying glue to the mating surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most do just that, but in this case, there is a high probability of uncontrolled extrusion of excess glue on the outer surfaces of the assembly. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and smear them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, in this case there are some pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on the fingertips, and the latter leave hard-to-remove prints on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep the fuselage away from the seam with your fingers when applying the adhesive. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.

After a few hours of drying, it is necessary to flush the adhesive seam, having previously protected the cockpit from sawdust with adhesive tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be allowed to dry well. The seam is cleaned with skins of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).

The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been made. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.

Add a wing and plumage

It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and the rudders are easy to rise.

Correction of defects of the brutal tail

On most small-scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the halves of the stabilizer are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most of the time they are defect free. If there are defects, then it is recommended to apply "hot cleaning".

Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with an unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part until it has cooled straighten it. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.

Thinner parts require less heat. All surfaces of the tail unit have fairly thin leading and trailing edges, if you eliminate the defect by bathing in hot water, you can easily damage the edges. It is desirable to bend only thick tea "stabilizer.

Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying, degreasing.

Fitting surfaces of plumage

Insert half of the stabilizer into the fuselage. As a rule, the junction even on good models requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttied after gluing, but for now it is necessary to assess how accurately the surface of the stabilizer fits the fuselage sagging. If the bead is thicker, then it must be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing the half of the stabilizer.

Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces

Now that you have fitted the tail assembly in place, you can start gluing it. If a rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the docking surfaces and press the rudder against the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued on as if it were in the neutral position, so be sure to look at the front, rear, and top of the model several times to make sure the rudder is in the correct position.

After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has hardened, you can proceed to attaching the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. By eye, the correctness of gluing the stabilizer is best checked by examining the assembly strictly from behind with a turn of 90 degrees. In this case, the stabilizer occupies a vertical position and it is easier to mentally compare the relative position of its halves, the halves must be on the same axis. Having set right angles, fix the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.

Wing

The wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, the upper and lower, sometimes the right and left upper parts and the common lower for the right and left planes, there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.

Alignment and gluing of the rigid wing

Rigid wing defects are eliminated by the already familiar “heat-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing planes, the angle of the transverse "V" and the installation angle of attack should be controlled. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and "V" for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. The uniformity of the transverse angle is conveniently controlled by the width of the slots between the planes and the center section. Gluing planes. Check the installation angles and fix the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. It is extremely inconvenient to work with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage, moreover, the paneling is almost always damaged during work. However, there's nothing to be done, not to leave gaps. It is quite possible to restore the stitching with the proper skill.

Alignment and gluing of the wing planes from two halves

The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes on the skin, a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's put the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and the lines of the jointing should converge. In practice, you usually have to remember the saying “pulled out the tail - the nose got stuck. After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the lines of the jointing do not match. It is best to take as a starting point when gluing the coincidence of the lines of the jointing of the upper and lower halves. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and fixed with narrow strips of camouflage data. Bonding occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After which the adhesive has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto those joints that they covered. While one plane dries, you can do the second. Finishing surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the adhesive has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage as well as the whole halves. Once again, it does not hurt to remind: control the installation angles, first of all - the angle of the transverse “V”.

Aligning and gluing a three-part wing

The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.

Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Reinstall the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check installation angles. Then attach the upper ladles of the planes in place and also fix them with adhesive tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of the wing of four parts: not joining the tips and joint lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert spacers made of thin plastic of the same thickness into the slots between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine - make the capillary effect work for the good deed of gluing the upper halves with the lower part. After setting the main adhesive seam, remove the adhesive tape, coat with glue the joints previously covered with masking tape.

The assembly must be completely dry before sanding and sanding. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in the assembly of the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.

Before you print the details of the model, carefully examine them and decide which pages and what density of paper you will print.

For parts that will need to be rolled into a tube of small diameter, ordinary office paper with a density of 80 g / m2 is suitable.
It is better to print the bulk of the details on paper with a density of 160-200 g/m2.
Individual parts can be printed on paper 240-320 g/m2.
For glazing, you can use a film for laser printers.

Print the downloaded PDF or DJVU files on a printer on A4 sheets.

Cutting

Step 1 Before you start cutting out the details, free your workspace from unnecessary things and papers so that you do not lose small details.
Before cutting out the details from the sheet, lightly press the folds with a ballpoint pen with a dry refill or something similar. The main thing is not to scratch the surface of the paper.
This will help you make the curves along the line more neat.

Step 2 Cut each specimen individually, leaving enough margin around the edges.

Step 3 Once you've cut out a piece, carefully write the number on the back so you can keep track of which pieces you have.

Step 4 Carefully cut off the extra margins from each part.

Step 5 Always cut along the outer edge of the black line. Then, when you start assembling the parts, they will fit together well.

Bending parts.

Use a ruler when bending straight sections. For the inside crease, place a ruler along the fold line. Then lift the paper and press against the edge of the ruler.

External bend. To make an outward bend, place the ruler on the edge of the table and place the template on top. Carefully align the fold line with the edge of the ruler and fold the paper down.

Curved parts To give the part a natural curve, you need to rub it against the corner of the table. This will make gluing easier.
You can also wrap the part around the pencil, and then expand and betray the part to the desired radius of curvature.

Gluing.

Waiting for the adhesive to dry completely is key to ensuring good model assembly results.
If glue gets on your hands, you will ruin the models, so make sure you keep your hands clean and wash your hands right away, or dry them off with a damp towel.

Step 1 Use a colorless and quick-drying glue. You can use PVA (the thicker the better - the paper will warp less), "Super Moment Pro", "TITAN", "DRAGON", "Crystal Moment".
Squeeze a small amount of glue onto a piece of cardboard or plastic.

Step 2 Then, using a strip of thick paper or cardboard like a spatula, scoop up the glue. Remember to apply glue to only one side of the spatula.

Step 3 Use this spatula to apply an evenly thin layer of adhesive to the bonding valve.

Step 4 Hold firmly the parts in the place of gluing until the glue dries completely.

Step 5 Assemble the parts individually and wait until they are completely dry before assembling all the models!

In order for the paper model to have smooth and regular fold lines, just before the fold, you need to use some kind of blunt object (it can be a mechanical pencil, non-writing ballpoint pen, and so on) and draw it along the fold line, making a small groove.

Usually this procedure is performed before cutting out the details of the paper model: they are carried out with a blunt tool along the fold lines, making a small groove. Thus, when you try to bend along the fold line, the part will bend exactly where you passed the tool.

To get very sharp edges when making models from thick paper (cardboard), you can draw along the fold lines with a paper knife, but not to the end, but cutting only the top layer of paper. With a subsequent bend, its edges will be sharp.

Cutting

Cut out the details of the paper model with either scissors or a paper cutter. Scissors are well suited for large parts, and two types of scissors can be used - large ones with straight blades, and nail scissors - with small curved blades. Straight scissors are useful for cutting large pieces, while nail scissors are useful for cutting smaller, curved pieces. A paper cutter is great for very small parts, as well as for cutting out internal holes.

Before starting, make sure that the area of ​​the table where you are going to work is well lit. This is important so that you can clearly see the cut lines. When using a paper cutter, it's a good idea to have a cut-proof mat to protect the table as well as the knife itself.

It is important to always use a sharp blade and not press too hard on the knife. Cutting the paper will then be very easy.

Don't try to twist your hand along all the curves of the line to cut complex shapes. You need to rotate the sheet. Thus, you will get faster and more correctly.

Cut one piece at a time, do it exactly when you need that particular piece. It makes no sense to cut out all the details, because they can simply be lost. If you did this (cut out all the details at once), do not forget to put a serial number on the back of each of them.

Fold

There are 2 types of fold - external and internal.

To make an outside fold, you must fold along the fold line so that it is above the sides to be folded. The so-called bulge should turn out, it’s not for nothing that in English the outer fold sounds like Mountain fold, mountain in translation from English is a mountain.

To make an inside fold, you must fold along the fold line so that it is below the sides to be folded. It should turn out to be called a recess, it’s not for nothing that in English the inner fold sounds like Valley fold, valley in translation from English - recess, gutter.

The most commonly used type of fold in paper models is the outer fold.

As a rule, each type of bend on the details of the model has its own symbol. Dashed lines (_ _ _ _ _) are usually used for outside folds, dashed lines (_ . _ . _ . _) for inside folds. Solid lines (______) are commonly used for cutting lines.

Gluing

Bonding is one of the most important steps in paper modeling. The appearance of the model and the correctness of its assembly depend on the correct gluing. Pay close attention to this step.

Most paper model parts have adhesive tabs, so in order to stick two parts together, you have to apply glue to the tab and press the parts together.

Important advice: do not use too much glue! It is enough to apply just one drop of glue to the part and smear it over the surface with a brush or finger. If you used a lot of glue, then it will be on the model itself, at this moment it must be quickly removed by blotting with a cloth or finger. It is important to use an adhesive that does not leave marks on the model itself.

In some situations, it is necessary to apply glue not to special tabs, but to the parts to be glued. This applies to internal gluing, when one part is placed inside another. In this case, glue is applied to the side faces (see figure).

rounding

Many models use cylindrical parts, such as paper ship masts, historic building columns, and more.

To round the part, to make it more pliable for making a cylinder, you just need to draw on the reverse side of the part, for example, with a mechanical pencil, a metal ruler. The part will immediately become more rounded, and it will be much easier for you to give it the desired shape.

For very small paper pieces, you can use a toothpick.

Docking

Some models use a separate special tab, with which two parts are glued together. A special tab is glued under both parts, giving the surface an almost perfect look.

Typically, this method is used to create aircraft, spacecraft, to give the fuselage the perfect look.

Joint painting

When gluing two parts together, their edges remain white - a paper cross section. For paper models made in dark colors, this moment becomes critical.

To get out of the situation after cutting out parts before assembly, use colored felt-tip pens or pencils to tint the edges in the color you need.

What techniques do you use when making paper models?