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How to sew a hidden zipper. How to sew a hidden zipper - technology, tips, subtleties

Conduct a series of fittings in order to accurately fit her fit to the figure, carefully stitch all the details of the skirt, but sewing a zipper in a skirt or dress does not work beautifully. Either you can see a hidden lightning, then one part of it has moved relative to the other, and so on.
Installing or replacing a zipper is always quite difficult, even if you have some experience. Often the quality of work depends on the material (fabric) from which the skirt, dress or trousers are sewn. The quality of the zipper tape, the presence of special paws and operations on your machine also affects.

In this article, we will share with you the secrets of how to properly sew on various types of zipper, sew on quickly and easily.
First, we will show in the photo and comment on how to sew an ordinary metal or twisted (spiral) zipper onto a skirt or trousers without sweeping and unnecessary operations. Then you will learn the steps for installing a hidden zipper using a special foot. And finally, we will give you some tips on how to properly replace a broken zipper (tractor) in a jacket.

Twisted and metal short zippers have been used infrequently lately, they have been successfully replaced by hidden zippers. But for some clothes, especially children's, it is more practical to install just such zippers. They are more reliable and somewhat easier to sew.

First you need to stitch the area (two parts) where the zipper will be installed with a wide stitch and without bartacks. This line will be removed in the future. Then you need to iron this seam on both sides and preferably with steam.


Now you need to change the regular foot to the zipper foot and sew on the zipper tape on both sides, as shown in this photo.
This method will provide you with an even and neat sewing of a zipper, without basting a lock and other operations.


All that remains is to undo the temporary line, iron this area well and make a finishing line on the front side of the skirt or trousers.


The finishing line is best done with the zipper closed and with a foot designed for sewing on the zipper.
Of course, you can sew a zipper in another way, but for beginners this technique is simple and straightforward.


How to sew a large zipper into a jacket (tractor)


Replacing a zipper in a jacket is fundamentally different from installing a zipper in a skirt, dress or trousers. Since the jacket usually has a lining, all the "nuances" and mistakes are hidden inside the jacket. This greatly simplifies the process of sewing in a zipper. Nevertheless, the technology for replacing a zipper in a jacket is quite complicated, it requires endless sweeping and checking the coincidence of the neckline, waist, pockets, etc. It is enough to slightly pull one side of the zipper and in the finished form it will “skew” the entire lock, and such a defect cannot be to correct.

Try to always stitch on the wrong side of the jacket (lining), and be sure to mark the front side of the jacket and zipper tape with marks or notches. Then, when sewing in a zipper, you will be able to control the displacement of the lock relative to the marks on the jacket and, if necessary, correct it.

To pass this section, you need to raise the foot, advance the slider and then continue to sew further. In some cases, you can even pull it out from under the paws.


If you attached the zipper with a special foot, then it is better to do the finishing line with a regular foot, and this line must be done on the wrong side. An experienced seamstress does this operation without sweeping, but we advise you to sweep anyway.
The seamstress pulls the lining to the left, and adjusts the front fabric (pressed in advance) exactly along the edge of the teeth. And as a result, without basting with threads, it is possible to sew a zipper with one line evenly and accurately. The advantage of this method is also that there is no fabric landing on the front side, and all the excess can be dispersed (stretched) over the lining.


This is how beautifully the stitching will go along the front side of the jacket if you learn how to sew a zipper with your own hands.

not just a clasp, but also a decorative element.

Sew it on - a couple of trifles.

Let's consider the simplest method.
1. the dress (skirt or sweatshirt) is ready, the lining (if any) is sewn to the neckline (top of the skirt).

Attention: the middle seam of the back is fully stitched!

2. attach the metal zipper. mark the exact end of the teeth.

3. prepare a strip of dublerin.

measure the width of the teeth of the metal zipper when closed. In the example: 4 mm.


4. you need to cut the seam allowances exactly to the mark (point 2)

5. From the front side, baste a strip of dublerin to the place where the metal zipper is attached.
Attention: the adhesive layer is up.

6. Sew a frame 5 mm wide (teeth width plus 1-2 mm)

cut seam allowances

stitch the frame under the zipper

baste a strip of dublerin to the place where the zipper is attached.


7. cut the frame and carefully make notches to the corners

8. turn the dublerin inside out and baste with bias stitches.

9. iron the dublerin, remove the basting threads.

cut the frame and carefully make notches to the corners

turn the dublerin inside out and baste with bias stitches.

iron the dublerin, remove the basting threads


10. From the inside, attach a metal zipper, secure with pins, or better, baste.

12. sew with a special foot (photo).

attach a zipper, fasten with pins

for greater accuracy, lightning = better to sweep

Your task is to sew on a hidden zipper, that is, to hide the fastener from prying eyes. An ignorant person should not be able to distinguish fittings from an ordinary connecting seam. Carefully match the zipper under the dress or skirt so that the color of the main product and the fasteners match to halftones. The lock slider will be visible from the "face" of the finished outfit, so pay attention to its size and design. In addition to accessories, you will need:

  • threads main (to match the clothes) and auxiliary (contrasting);
  • sharpened scissors;
  • tailor's meter;
  • chalk or remnant;
  • iron with steam function;
  • sewing machine with zipper foot;
  • overlock (if the machine does not sew with a zigzag).

Adjust the length of the seam for the fastener in advance in order to buy accessories of the required size. According to the recommendations of professional tailors, a hidden zipper should be 1.5 centimeters longer than the sewing line.

Choose a thin, strong iron zipper. The stroke of the slider should not be too tight or light. Place the fittings vertically and pull the canvas base in both directions - if the lock is easily dispersed, the slider is unreliable

We change the dog with a zipper on our own

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Preparing the seam for sewing in a hidden zipper

Before sewing in a hidden zipper, the seam must be properly prepared. Often outfits with this kind of fasteners are made from delicate fabrics, the styles are chosen tight-fitting. If such a canvas is used, do not make a side zipper: even the most elegant fittings can deform the silhouette.

Mark with a small or pointed remnant the place where the fastener is attached - the median vertical line on the back of the dress or at the back of the skirt. If the cut detail is made of two parts (for example, the left and right shelves), the fittings will be sewn in at the joints of the fabric. Allow for standard seam allowances of 1.5 centimeters high.

Very carefully make a clean cut with sharp tailor's scissors and finish the fabric edges with an overlock or machine zigzag stitch. Bend the allowances to the inside of the dress or skirt, and then thoroughly steam them with an iron. It is important that these strips of fabric do not turn inside out when sewing in accessories.

You can process sections of the fabric on which the zipper will be sewn using an oblique inlay exactly to match the clothes

How to sew in a hidden zipper

Open the fittings and place on the seam allowances with the wrong side up. The teeth of the fastener should run along the edges of the seam, and the top of the zipper tape must be exactly aligned with the edge of the neckline of the dress or the top of the yoke of the skirt. It is important that the clasp does not move when sewing in, so it must be tacked by hand with a contrasting thread with simple “forward needle” stitches. When basting, move from top to bottom!

Check the operation of the tacked fittings. If it lies perfectly flat, does not bulge, does not jam, you can sew it in with a sewing machine. Bring the fabric under the special zipper foot and sew a straight stitch on both sides of the fastener between the tape and the teeth. When you bring the stitches to the slider, secure the thread with a double knot. Close the zipper and change to a regular machine foot. Sew an open seam at the back of the skirt or back of the dress, carefully cut and pull out the contrasting basting, iron the finished seams of the hidden zipper.

How to hem a dress?

  • More

Sometimes the process of sewing a zipper into a dress causes certain difficulties for seamstresses who do not have sufficient experience. Or maybe you are not a seamstress, but just want to replace a broken zipper on your favorite dress? This article will be useful in both cases, both for professionals and amateur beginners in the sewing business. After reading this detailed instruction, all questions will disappear by themselves, and you can easily cope with the task.

Necessary materials and equipment

Before proceeding directly to the repair of the dress, prepare everything you need, so that later you do not look for all this in the bustle and not be distracted:

  • sewing machine (and to it - a special foot for a hidden zipper);
  • lightning;
  • tailor's chalk or soap (dry, with a sharp edge);
  • threads;
  • needles;
  • scissors.

Choosing a place for a zipper on a dress

There are two options:

  • in the middle seam on the back;
  • in the side seam.

Most often sewn into the middle seam on the back. The lightning placed here will not deform the dress, create irregularities. But on the other hand, difficulties may arise due to the inconvenience of use: in order to fasten such a zipper, you will always have to ask for help. What if no one is around?
In this case, you can sew a zipper into the side seam of the dress. And here already keep in mind that the minimum error can lead to the fact that the sides of the dress will puff up, especially if the dress is made of light, thin fabric.


Preparatory process

To sew in a hidden zipper, it is necessary to process an open seam. We overlay the edges of the seam or process it with an oblique silk trim so that they do not fray later during work. Chalk (or soap in its absence) on the inside we outline the lines of sewing in a hidden zipper. We leave allowances with a width of 1.5 cm, turn them away, press down a little, but do not iron.


Working with lightning

We open the zipper, put it on the allowances (on the front part). We place the teeth of the zipper perfectly evenly - so that they coincide with the middle line on the dress. We place the top of the braid at the level of the upper edge of the neck of the dress. Overcast the zipper with wide stitches. And start doing this from above, both on the left and on the right side.


Connecting the sewing machine

Let's move on to final a stage where you have practically nothing to do, because automatic processes are included in the work:

  • prepare the sewing machine for use;
  • replace the standard foot with a foot for attaching a hidden zipper;
  • bend its teeth with the nail of your index finger (this is done so that you can see how the seam fits, and the seam line itself);
  • sew a line along the left side of the zipper seam from top to bottom, and start sewing the right side from the bottom without interrupting the line.

Congratulations! You just sewed a zipper into the dress yourself!


Little tricks

Each seamstress has her own little secrets that help to achieve the best result. Here are some of them:

  • some glue strips of thin glue, and then sew folds for the zipper so that the zipper holds more securely, has a neater look;
  • the end of the zipper should be 2.5-3 cm below the mark you made, which defines the designated area for the zipper;
  • the stitching on the zipper seam should be located at a distance of 1 mm from the teeth.

Now you don't have to run to the atelier if you need to sew a zipper into a dress. You can easily do it yourself if you can read and have basic sewing machine skills.

2015-07-15 Maria Novikova

The best thing that has been invented in the clothing industry, in my opinion, is a hidden zipper. It is sewn into the side or middle seam, while it is not visible at all. This is especially important when the product is made of delicate fabric. If you choose the right color of the zipper and follow the instructions, then the finished zipper will be difficult to notice. How to carefully sew a hidden zipper in a dress? Now you will learn in detail how to sew a hidden zipper into an evening dress.

You will need:

  • Concealed zip in fabric color
  • Sewing machine
  • Reversible foot
  • Needle and thread
  • Tailor's pins
  • Threads in the color of the fabric

How to sew a hidden zipper

First you need to flog the broken zipper:

Then we take a new zipper and apply it to the middle seam allowance, so that the teeth of the zipper coincide with the seam line. The limiter at the top of the zipper should be flush with the top cut of the dress. The zipper slider is face down. We chop off one side of the zipper braid with tailor's pins:

Sweep with hand stitches:

Since the dress has decorative elements along the waist line, therefore, when fastening the zipper, they must match. To do this, fasten the zipper and mark on it where the seams of the trim should join.

Baste the second side of the zipper, leaving the pins at waist level.

We sew on a sewing machine so that the line runs 0.1 cm from the seam of the teeth. If the stitch runs too close, i.e. goes to the seam, the zipper will not fasten. If the line goes far, then the zipper will be visible from the front side in finished form.


While sewing, do not remove the pins at the waist, otherwise the coincidence of the seams will not be accurate.

Advice! When sewing a zipper into a product with horizontal seams, try to step back a little at the locations of these seams by 0.3 cm. When fastening a zipper in these places, it may not go through, break or disperse.

When the line reaches the end of the zipper, but not to the slider, you need to set the bartack at the same level with the seam, using the reverse gear of the machine.

Then we turn around and stitch the second side of the zipper, in a similar way, at the beginning and at the end of the line we put bartacks.

We remove the basting threads and fasten the zipper. To fasten the zipper, you need to pull the slider to the front side, for this we take the tongue of the slider and push it through the hole between the seam and the zipper. Then, holding it with your fingers, pull it towards you until the slider itself appears.

If everything is in order, then we fix the edges of the zipper braid for the seam allowances, along the entire length. This is necessary so that when fastening the braid does not bend outwards.


So that the zipper does not unfasten and it is easier to fasten it, you can sew on a metal hook and loop.

If the zipper turned out to be too long, then it needs to be cut, and the edges should be singeed so that the zipper does not open.

At the end of the work, the fastener should be ironed on the front side through the ironer so that there are no prints left.

It took me about 30 minutes to replace the hidden zipper, as a result, the evening dress is like new. This once again proves that the ability to sew is always useful in life. It is not necessary to master the techniques of tailoring, it is enough to learn how to perform simple repair of clothes. This will greatly save your budget.

Bye, until we meet again!

P.S. I'd love to see your comments below! 🙂

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Sincerely, Maria Novikova.

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