How to make a shoe template. DIY shoes. Closed shoe pattern

29.07.2021

The leather jacket has come apart at the seams, is pretty rubbed, and there is no way to tidy it up? Do not rush to part with her. It is quite possible that some of its fragments will serve you for more than one year - in the form of a handbag, purse, jewelry, and even sandals. Do you think that shoes with your own hands are troublesome and laborious? Not so scary. With simple models, you can probably handle it. Or maybe you will have an interesting design idea that can conquer the world? We will tell you about what kind of shoes you can sew if you do not have enough experience in the article.

What kind of skin is there?

Before making your shoes, it is very helpful to understand what kind of material you might be dealing with. There are several types of leather. Many circumstances influence its quality. For example, the following types are distinguished by the age of the animal:

residue;
calves;
outgrowth;
do not spit;
half-leather;
full weight skin.

Important! The residue is the skin of an animal in the womb. The skin of a newborn lamb or calf is called a three-month-old calf, and one that was fed plant foods is an outgrowth. A nonsuy is the skin of a half-year-old animal, a half-skin is a one-year-old. Finally, the full weight hide is made from the skin of an adult cattle.

Manufacturing quality

As you know, leather shoes and clothing are made from the skins of a wide variety of animals - goats, cows, sheep, buffaloes. You can find such names:

morocco;
morocin;
shagreen;
parchment;
yuft.

Important! Morocco, morocin and shagreen are made from goat skin with a low fat content. However, there is also a sheep shagreen. Calfskin is parchment; in ancient times, they not only sewed clothes and shoes from it with their own hands, but also made books that have survived to our time. It is still used in bookbinding.

Leather is made from horse, pig or deerskin with a good fat content. This material is tanned with willow bark. It comes in different thicknesses. Thick leather can be used for engraving, for example.

Differences in the type of raw materials and manufacturing method

In the leather industry, different processing methods are used. Sometimes different varieties are obtained from the same skins, depending on the technology. These are the following types:

like;
kid;
chevret;
goat;
velours;
suede ;
split.

Here's what makes them different:

Laika is a very thin material. They make it from the skin of unborn animals or from calf.
Goat skins are used for goat and chevro, but chevret, despite the similarity of names, is obtained from sheep skins.
For velor, chrome tanning is used. The top side is sanded.
To obtain suede, fat tanning is used. To get suede, they take moose or deer skins, but maybe also the skin of a wild goat. Very high quality material, soft and lightweight, but capable of being strongly stretched.
If you separate the layer from the suede, you get a split.

What skin is needed for what?

Before you sew shoes, you need to choose the right material:

For the manufacture of gloves, husky is usually used, since it is extremely elastic and perfectly conveys all bends.
Everything is suitable for jewelry, leather or morocco is suitable for bags, but for shoes?

You are unlikely to be satisfied with one type of skin. The sole must be resistant to abrasion, so the material for it should be chosen thicker and harder. For example, yuft. And from what to make the top? The best material is morocco, but a lot depends on what exactly you are going to sew.

Important! In ancient times, morocco boots were worn by both men and women, this material is beautiful and durable. For men's boots, leather was also used, especially if a person had to walk on uneven roads in any weather. But for graceful female legs, for example, suede is suitable.

Tools

Confused about how to sew your own shoes, think about tools. Leather shoes or boots will have to be made by hand - you hardly have a machine at home that can work with such materials. Although the old household machines "Singer" or "Podolsk" splendidly sewn even the toughest skin. But in any case, some of the work will have to be done without a typewriter.

You will need tools and accessories to sew shoes with your own hands. At home you can find:

screwdrivers of different sizes;
nails;
pliers;
metal tubes;
elements of a children's metal constructor.

The most important thing is knives, especially if you are not going to be limited to one product. You will need several of them:

crooked;
several straight lines;
boot knife with one-sided sharpening, without handle;
knife with a crescent-shaped blade.

Important! They are all designed for different lines. For instance:

Straight knives make straight cuts, as well as blanks for belts and laces.

A curved knife allows you to make curved lines, a boot knife is used to cut thick leather, and it is convenient to grind with a crescent knife.

In addition, you will need scissors:

tailors;
profiled;
"zigzag".

Important! Profiled leather scissors are more convenient than regular tailor scissors because they have small teeth that allow you to make a very precise and neat cut.

Awl, bar, sandpaper

In addition to knives and scissors, you need other tools and tools to sew shoes with your own hands:

wooden blocks;
sandpaper with different grains;
bone;
round awl;
cross awl;
round awl;
compass;
metal ruler;
scalpel;
tweezers;
metal hammer;
wooden hammer;
metal ruler;
ball pen.

All the tools are pretty ordinary, except for the bone - you have to do it yourself. It is not difficult, it is a small polished block. In addition, you will need punches - these are specific tools for punching holes, they can be of different diameters. A useful thing is serrated knurling. You can buy them at an artist or craft store.

Important! Make sure you have a manicure set on hand - almost everything in there will come in handy.

Adhesives

You will fasten some of the parts with seams. But for shoes with your own hands you also need good glue. Several are suitable:

"Moment";
"Mars";
"Unicum";
Plantar.

Other means

To make your shoes look like new with your own hands, take care of dyes and care products in advance - creams, castor oil, and dyes. In addition, it is useful to prepare the bark of some trees, which can be both dyes and tanning agents.

Important! Little things like regular household bleach and tooth powder will also come in handy.

Cooking threads

Experienced shoemakers who make custom-made shoes sew the details with grat. They prepare it like this.

The cotton threads are folded into four strands.
Rub with bread.
Wax.

Important! Shoes, sewn with grating, are stronger and less susceptible to negative climatic influences. You can also use nylon threads, but they can cut through thin skin.

Taking measurements

How to make boots, shoes or just slippers so that they fit and don't rub anywhere? First you need to take measurements, for which you need the most common measuring tape:

Measure the widest part of your foot - for this you need to wrap the centimeter around the base of your toes, and so that it does not twist.
Measure the circumference of your foot where your highest instep is.
Determine your lift by wrapping a centimeter from the highest point across your heel.
Find and measure the narrowest point.
Measure the length of the foot (you can stand on a sheet of cardboard or paper and circle the foot - only the pen should be strictly vertical).
Determine the width of the foot (you can follow the track in the widest part).
Calculate the distance from your toes to the instep.
Measure the heel protrusion.
Determine your maximum heel height.

Important! If you are going to sew shoes with your own hands in the future, it is best to make a wooden block along your foot - the board must be carefully cut and sanded, and also cut off the line according to your measurements.

Slippers

If you want to sew home shoes with your own hands, the master class will not take much time. For a start, it's best to try making slippers without soles. There is no need to sew - the top is formed thanks to the folds. This requires a single piece of leather that is quite soft but durable. A pattern for this model is also not needed:

Spread the leather seam side up.
Place your foot and outline your foot.
Divide the contour into approximately equal segments.
From each point, draw a perpendicular towards the edges of the piece.
Set aside segments of equal length on each line - from 7 to 12 cm.
Connect the marks with a smooth line - you have a double foot.
Cut the workpiece along the outer contour.
Make a cut at the back from the most prominent point of the heel to the top edge.
Try on what you get, and lay up in folds.
If there are a lot of folds, make wedges and sew the edges.
Connect the back with a strap.
Braid the free edge.
At a distance of 0.5 cm from the upper cut, punch holes and thread a leather cord through them.
Cut out the insole separately - it is better to glue or stitch it on.

Important! The folds should be located no more than 1-1.5 cm from each other.

It's so easy enough that you were able to sew shoes with your own hands.

Slip-on slippers with sole

What and how to make a shoe sole with your own hands? Made of even thick leather. The option is simple - you can cut according to the pattern, you can draw the insole directly on the skin. As for the top, it is better to choose soft leather for it, but you can use other materials - cloth or any other dense fabric:

Cut out the sole.
Cut the top out of leather or thick fabric.
Hand sew the upper to the outsole.

In this case, the question inevitably arises: how to carve out the top? It is a trapezoid. He needs measurements:

girth of the foot at the level of the rise;
girth of fingers;
the distance from the highest point of lift to the base of the toes.

Now let's look at how to sew shoes with our own hands step by step:

Draw a straight line for the top cut.
Place the girth of your fingers on it.
Divide the line in half.
Draw a perpendicular to the middle.
Set aside the distance from the instep to the base of the toes on it.
Through this point, draw a line parallel to the first.
Place the circumference of the foot on it at the level of the instep.
After that, you just have to assemble the product - to sew the top to the sole.
You can lay the braid along the sewing line.

Such slippers-pantolet are excellent summer shoes with your own hands, you can already conduct a master class yourself.

Important! The top can also be cut out simply in the form of a strip, by trying on it already on the leg, and then cutting off the excess.

Closed Toe Slippers

They are sewn in almost the same way as the previous ones. If you don't really want to build a pattern on your own, rip up some old sneakers of a similar style and circle the top over them. They can be with or without a seam in the middle.

The sequence of work will be the same as in the previous case. True, you can decorate a product in a variety of ways - from applique to embossing.

Sewing sneakers with your own hands

Sneakers are more sophisticated shoes. But there is nothing impossible in making it with your own hands. Lightweight sneakers are composed of 8 parts:

soles;
insoles;
2 symmetrical sidewalls;
2 front pieces;
2 reeds.

The sole and insole are made in the same way as for any other shoe. Only a small heel is needed - for sneakers it is glued inside, for boots - outside. The heel is cut along the sole, and the edge is grinded. Cut out the tongue approximately, and then adjust it to the desired size - this can be done after everything else is ready.

Important! Along the edge of the sole, make an allowance of 0.5 cm.

Top part

In order to make a pattern for the upper part and sew such shoes with your own hands, you will need measurements:

lifting height;
distance from the highest part of the lift to the end of the thumb:
the distance from the sole to the highest part of the instep on the outside of the foot;
the distance from the sole to the highest instep point on the inside of the foot.

Important! The upper part can also be composite, then the pattern must be cut into several parts and individual elements cut out, and then sewn together.

Draw a pattern

To create a pattern for the outer part, draw a straight line - this will be the front seam:

Set aside on this line the distance from the highest point of lift to the end of the thumb and put point A.
Draw a perpendicular to the opposite end of the midline.
Set aside half of the lifting height on it.
Connect this point to point A with an arc, the convex part of which is directed from the middle seam.
Similarly, cut out the second part of the front, using the appropriate measurements for this.
Mark the matching points on the sole along the outer and inner sides of the foot - they are located where the forefoot begins and ends.

Sidewalls

The sides are the same and are stripes. The length of each is equal to the distance from the point of alignment to the middle of the heel, the width is 7-8 cm. It may be necessary to align the sections that will be sewn to the front parts obliquely when fitting.

Important! If you want to sew insulated shoes with your own hands, you can glue the leather parts, for example, with fleece. At the bottom, you need to leave an allowance.

Assembly

To make your own shoes, first punch lacing holes on the front. They should be located strictly opposite each other and end 5-6 centimeters before the toe:

Sew the front seam.
Sew the sidewalls together.
You can strengthen the heel with a soft pad - it is made in the form of an oval or diamond.
Sew the sidewalls to the front pieces.
Sew the upper to the sole, connecting the matching points.
Align the allowances.
Align and sew on the tongue - 1-2 cm below the lacing.

Important! Sneakers will look good without embellishment, but nothing prevents you from sticking an applique on and even attaching glowing elements.

Sandals

Summer leather shoes should be heeled. Cut it along the pattern of the sole, outlining only the back, and glue it well:

Cut out a long strip of paper.
Wrap it around your leg and see which strap arrangement you like best.
Determine where the straps will attach to the outsole.
Make holes in the appropriate places.
Cut out the required number of straps.
Glue their ends into the holes.
Try on the model on your leg and lay the straps in patterns, one of them should wrap around the ankle, while attached to the rest.

Now handicrafts are in great fashion. This applies not only to clothing and jewelry, but also to shoes. The simplest models are available even to an inexperienced person. It is better to start with simple but effective models, and then move on to more complex ones that require additional tools and good skills in working with leather.

The Russian company Ralf Ringer is already 17 years old. It has three own factories (in Moscow, Vladimir and Zaraysk), the largest distribution network in Russia (over 1,700 stores) and the country's largest production of men's footwear. In total, in 2012, she sold about 1.35 million pairs.

Ralf Ringer shoe company

Location

Moscow city

opening date

1996 year

employees

3000 people

Annual turnover

2 billion rubles

Before the start of production, future shoes go a long way. A team of brand managers, relying on global fashion trends, market analysis and sales results of the previous collection, creates a technical task. On its basis, fashion designers come up with a collection, which they show to the assortment department and company executives on a sketch board. Next, the models are selected, which, according to the general opinion, will be in demand in the market. For these models, a technological map and patterns are created, according to which the first samples are created in the experimental workshop. The already sewn collection is again shown to the expert council, which considers each style and model in stages, sends them to the designers for revision and approves the final assortment. Only now the collection is being presented to buyers from various stores. The models they choose go into mass production.

The factory uses leather from four countries: from Russia - for coarse men's boots, from Italy - for model classics, from Argentina - for semi-sports shoes, and from France comes high selection raw materials, which are used in the production of the most expensive models.

The pads take into account the structural features of the Russian foot. Our shoes are wider and fuller than those of Europeans, so classic Italian shoes are often not suitable for our men. The width of the Russian foot can be not only a genetic feature, but also a consequence of orthopedic flat feet earned in childhood from uncomfortable shoes.

In this workshop, details of future boots are cut out. It is specially located on the first floor, because the punching presses are very heavy - they simply could not withstand overlapping.

This is how the insoles are cut. Each shoe (with rare exceptions, moccasins, for example, without the main insole), in order to maintain shape stability, necessarily contains an insole made of shoe cellulose - a very dense, thick material. She, like the bones in the human body, creates the skeleton of the boot.

On the table there are patterns tied with a string for a boot of a certain style and size. Each such part is inserted into a cutter, which under the press cuts the corresponding parts out of the material.

This is a preparatory workshop where previously cut parts are processed. They are painted over, burned with a special blowtorch, bent, and marked with a silver pencil. Then there is the marking of the details: on each shoe there is data on the type of shoe, color, size and batch number.

An important nuance when creating a boot is that it should not have pronounced scars, seams that can injure the leg. In order to prevent the shoes from chafing, the edges of some parts are grinded. To check the thickness of the skin, use a thickness gauge (pictured).

In the workshop where laser perforation is performed, there is always a strong smell of burnt leather. According to the pattern set by the program, the laser burns neat "holes" in the skin.

An automatic belt passes through the workshop, along which boxes with products travel. In order for the specialist to perform his operation, the master puts the box on the tape, presses the number of the corresponding specialist on the remote control, and the box is sent to him. When the operation is completed, the specialist returns the box with the product to the master, and he directs it to the next operator.

In this workshop, the main insoles are made, which are then attached to the upper blank, and then to the sole. The parts of the insoles (main and heel) cut out on the ground floor are glued together.

This machine makes a recess in the insole, into which the instep support is then inserted.

The next steps are related to shaping the boot. To do this, first, a shoe pulp insole is nailed to the last with three studs. Then, in special machines, the toe and heel-gel part of the shoe is tightened and glued on the last. The white threads on the bobbin in the photo are polyurethane glue that heats up inside the machine.

The boot passes through a special sauna, where it is subjected to moisture-heat treatment, as a result of which it finally takes the shape of a shoe. Then the workpiece goes to prepare the attachment to the sole: the drawing is washed off, the boot is pre-primed and polished, the excess of the tightening edge is sanded with a coarse abrasive.

To attach the upper to the sole, the leather at the junction of the sole and the upper blank must be slightly ruffled - this way the parts "grasp" better.

This is the connection between the sole and the upper of the boot. The sole with glue gets very hot and is pressed into the upper in a special bath. The finished boot is very hot, so it is immediately sent to the freezer, and then the excess glue is quickly removed from it.

Then the shoe is removed from the shoe, the insoles are inserted into it, treated with cream, tinted with water-repellent paints, additionally polished, steamed with a special mini-iron, which straightens the inner sock. Also, boots are treated with carnauba wax, which is considered the most expensive material in shoe care products. It is thanks to him that the shoes in stores look so sparkling.

So, the first step is to build the insole. We start with the contour of the foot. We put our foot on a piece of paper and circle it.

After that, it is advisable for us to think about what form of shoes we want. In fig. 1 shows an elongated, blunt, slightly rounded toe. Shoes are almost always longer than the foot, because the shape of the toe does not match the shape of the toes.

For the rest, we repeat the contour with three exceptions, in which our insole will be narrower than the legs:

Thumb;
"Bunches" (the widest part of the leg where it bends);
Rise (narrowest leg).

Why? Either take my word for it, or I'll say that in the first two places the skin will simply stretch, and in the rise the shape of the foot is such that it goes inward at an angle.

The length of the insole is shown in fig. 2. From the front, it protrudes beyond the foot, from the back it just barely reaches the end.

Building the top. To do this, measure the width of the foot in several places - W1, W2, W3 (shown approximately, you can measure more places) (Fig. 3). It is most convenient to measure with a flexible tailor's centimeter, but you can also use a string.

Based on the results of measurements, we construct a form shown in Fig. 4. You will probably have to suffer with the form, choosing by typing and extrapolating - as an aid, you can use the patterns that I have already given.

We also measure the height of the backdrop h.

The outer length O1 and the inner length O2 of the upper must exactly match the length of the outer and inner contour of the insole (fig. 4).

We also build the notch by eye, having previously measured the desired depth from the toe in the direction of rise.

As you work, apply paper patterns to your leg - this will give you a general idea of whether you are moving in the right direction.

We got a basic pattern (fig. 5). On this basis, you can build a pattern of boots (Fig. 6) or boots (Fig. 7). For boots, similarly to W1 ... W3, we measure the width of the bootleg in several places, taking into account the fastener.

The sole insole will follow the shape of the tightening insole, but 1-2 mm wider.

It's always a good idea to consider finished shoes. If you are building, for example, shoes for a doll, the proportions of individual parts can simply be “ripped off” from the finished product, taking into account the scale.

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I like to make shoes that fit tightly on the leg, especially remembering that natural leather is stretchable. In addition, I am touched by such naturalistic details as the protruding relief of the fingers, etc.)) If your tastes coincide with mine, reduce the pattern of the top in width by a couple of millimeters. At the same time, do not turn the insole - how it was built, it should be!

If you like shoes with a stiffer shape, make a slightly looser pattern. In this case, it is useful to put the leather of the top on a lining.

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Despite the huge assortment of very different shoes on store shelves, people are often interested in making slippers, shoes or boots on their own. This desire is explained by many reasons: the ability to reduce the cost of the finished product, get a model of a unique design that ideally matches the parameters of the foot, or even simply try your hand at a new area for yourself. Be that as it may, in order to make shoes with your own hands, you need to study in detail all stages of production, choose the right raw materials and tools, correctly build a pattern, and perform many other actions. The process is long and complex, requiring remarkable patience, concentration of attention, perseverance, while it is quite feasible, interesting and educational.

Design features

The modern market presents many shoe models that differ from each other in material and appearance. Before studying the stages of making leather or suede products, you should familiarize yourself with the design, components, and their differences.

The elements that make up the upper part of the shoe:

Toe - the part that covers the surface of the toes, keeps the foot from mechanical damage, and most often comes into contact with the external environment.
A vamp is a piece that covers the back of the foot. When walking, it constantly lends itself to bends, therefore it is deformed first.
Ankle boots - cover the lower parts of the lower leg and ankle. During operation, this part practically does not lend itself to negative external influences.
Eyelet - a place designed for laces, ropes.
The back is a detail that covers the heel of the foot.
Tongue - the part attached to the base of the shoe that fixes the foot, prevents dust, dirt, and small parts from getting inside.
The insole is a layer of soft and pleasant leather (or other material) that contacts directly with the foot, softens walking, removes discomfort even when running.

The lower part of the shoe is represented by the following elements:

The sole is the most significant detail of the bottom, which determines not only the comfort while walking, but also the durability of the product. It protects the leg from unpleasant contact with the ground, softens the mechanical effect when jumping, running, walking.
The heel is a part that is designed to lift the heel of the foot. It can be of different shapes and sizes, it all depends on the model, seasonal design.
Heel - attaches to the surface of the heel, protects it from abrasion.
Rant is the part responsible for securing the bottom of the shoe.
Protective inserts - elements made of cotton and polyurethane to prevent heel chafing and calluses.
Filler is a material that provides breathability, warmth, ventilation, protection from seasonal weather conditions.
An instep support - a part that is placed between the sole and the base of the insole, creates the necessary rigidity and elasticity.

The sole has enormous loads, it undergoes constant wear and tear when it comes into contact with the ground, so the material for its production must be of high quality and durable.

Making shoes with your own hands requires adherence to many rules. Each of the described details has its own production nuances.

Materials and tools

Before making your own shoes, it is important to choose the right material and assemble the right tools. Adult or children's products are most often made from leather, suede, textiles. It is natural leather shoes that are popular, because they are durable, practical, wear-resistant, the chances of rubbing your feet are much less. From this raw material they make: sneakers, boots, boots, shoes, sneakers, flip flops.

Suede is a pleasant, soft, elastic material used for both adult and children's shoes. It does not have a front layer, it is laborious to manufacture, and therefore quite expensive. Textiles - used for sewing summer shoes, booties for children, sneakers, as well as house slippers. The material is very delicate, soft and pleasant to the touch. In such shoes, the leg always breathes, receives the necessary ventilation, comfort, warmth.

Textiles are environmentally friendly, so they are most often used to make children's shoes.

Leather

Suede

Textile

When making soles with their own hands, they use:

Skin - has increased durability, strength, protects the leg from external damage, allows it to breathe. Making a leather sole with your own hands is no more difficult than from any other material.
Rubber is a wear-resistant material that is resistant to frost, temperature extremes, and has thermoplasticity. It is characterized by strength, practicality, durability. The only drawback is the increased soiling of such a sole.
PVC is a cheap material that has good wear resistance and can be painted. Used for making winter footwear. The disadvantage is too heavy.
TPE - made of thermoplastic rubber, characterized by good wear resistance, does not slip on a wet road. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to give clear and even outlines.
Polyurethane - has low thermal conductivity, soft, lightweight, any seasonal models are made from it. Easy to repair. The footwear industry uses this material frequently. The disadvantage is fragile, it wears out quickly.

Leather

Rubber

Pvc

TEP

Polyurethane

Sewing shoes will not be possible without the following tools and consumables:

file;
tokmach;
beeswax;
awl;
lingering pliers;
hammer;
boot knife;
Desmokol polyurethane glue;
nails;
insulating tape.

It is worth taking care of the availability of all the necessary materials and tools in advance, only then you can proceed to the manufacturing process.

Manufacturing steps

The creation of shoes or boots consists of sequential steps that are important to follow. If you do not have an idea of how shoes are made, it will be useful to watch several videos, study a step-by-step master class on correct sewing - this will make the process clearer, easier and more enjoyable.

Taking measurements

Taking measurements for sewing shoes is the first significant step, it helps to determine the required size of the selected model. The step-by-step process looks like this:

the leg is placed on a white sheet of paper, the foot is drawn around the contour;
its length is defined as the distance between the protruding toe and the heel, width as the distance between points at its widest part;
the girth of the instep and ankle is measured using a measuring tape;
girths are determined: calf muscle (for high boots), oblique through the heel, feet in the narrowest and widest parts.

When tracing the foot, the pencil should be held perpendicular to the plane of the paper.

Each measurement taken is recorded on a sheet, then these parameters are used in the manufacture of a layout and pattern.

Layout creation

The next step is to create a block. Wood is used as a material, which is characterized by increased hardness, resistance to moisture. For example, beech, birch, maple. To work you will need two pieces of wood, preferably square.

When choosing bars, you need to understand what type of last should be obtained: the boot neck should be higher, by about 3 cm compared to the shoe. If for the first a bar with a cross section of 15 × 15 cm is taken, then for the second 12 × 12 cm will be enough.

Of the tools you need:

axe;
mallet;
hacksaw for wood;
rasp;
a set of chisels and round cutters.

In addition, old shoes that fit the foot well will come in handy. Step by step algorithm:

On one side of the timber, the sole is drawn according to the standards, and the profile of the future desired model is drawn from the side with a template.
Center lines must be made between the top and bottom parts by drilling two through holes.
All unnecessary knots and fragments are removed with a hacksaw or a hatchet. After that, the workpiece is given a shape similar to the shape of a leg.
Coarser processing is done with a mallet and chisels. Then round incisors are used, since in some places the block is not only convex, but also concave inward.
At the end, sanding is carried out using sandpaper or rasps. If a heel is planned in the shoe, a special depression must be created for it.

Having made the block according to the measurements, they proceed to create a preliminary layout. For this, the finished product is sheathed with thin, natural leather. At this point, you already need to understand what the model will be, whether additional external design seams and drawings are provided. They are marked on the model in advance, then, focusing on the finished appearance of the model, they move on to more complex stages of production.

Take two pieces of wood

On one side of the timber, draw the sole according to the measurements.

Draw the profile of the future desired model on the side with a piece

Drill two through holes between the top and bottom

Remove unnecessary swirls and debris

Do a rougher treatment with a mallet and chisels

For convexities and concavities, use round incisors.

Grind the product

Finished block

Pattern preparation and overcasting

The insole pattern is made on the basis of the outlined foot. Moreover, it should be slightly longer, the shape of the sock is chosen depending on the model.

The top is constructed as follows:

The measurement results create the shape shown in the figure. The outer and inner lengths of the upper must exactly match the lengths of the outer and inner contour of the insole.
The cut is roughly based on the desired depth from the toe in the direction of the lift. In the process of work, it is worth trying on a pattern on the leg - to understand the correctness of actions.
According to the pattern of the shoe, its upper part, a blank is cut out of natural suede or leather.

You need to cut the workpiece 2-3 mm more than the pattern itself. In this case, when making shoes, it will not be small.

The lining is cut according to the same shoe pattern. The top and lining are sewn or glued together. The edges need to be trimmed as much as possible, the leather must be sharpened if necessary, the product must be tinted so that it looks as close as possible to the desired shoe model.

Create a shape based on the measurement results
Cut the blank according to the pattern
Cut the lining, sew or glue to the top

Pulling on the workpiece and patching the welt

Manufacturing continues: you need to pull the top of the shoe onto the prepared last, it is important to learn how to do this very tightly. Then you need to put the insole. This stage of production is especially important; convenience and comfort while walking will depend on it.

Rant is a thin leather strip that connects all parts of the future model, stretched over the last. The presence of this part allows you to repair any model in case of damage to the sole or last.

Pull the upper part over the block

Trim the insole blank with a boot knife

Smear the place of attachment of the insole with desmokol

Attach the insole

Fix the workpiece with shoe nails

Continue to work with lingering pliers

Tighten the edges of the workpiece as tightly as possible to each other

Pull out nails, trim off excess suede

Glue a decorative leatherboard welt

Sewing on, dyeing and polishing the sole

The sole is different, more often rubber or leather. It needs to be strengthened with special small studs, which ensure reliability and durability. If you need to sew on a heel, use several layers of leather.

It is not enough just to make the model yourself and sew the correct layout, you also need to be able to professionally paint the sole and polish it. The color depends on the tone of the shoe. After applying the paint, you need to wait until it is completely dry. Self-production of shoes ends with a polishing stage.

Pour glue into a small, convenient container

Brush the bottom of the shoe blank

Pay special attention to the suede folds

Treat the sole with glue too

Warm up with a hair dryer to activate the properties of the glue

Press the sole and the workpiece tightly together, beat off with a hammer for grip strength

Cut off the protruding edges with a boot knife

Act slowly and carefully

The next stage is the manufacture of heels and heels

Take the necessary measurements

File the area where the heel is attached with a file

Fitting

Handmade footwear is in great demand due to its quality and durability - usually handcrafted based on natural materials, requires higher quality requirements for the finished product. Accordingly, the price of hand-sewn shoes will be higher in comparison with products sewn in automated production.

Handmade footwear firms

Even in an age of maximum automation, hand-made shoes are not outlandish. Classic English productions that are highly regarded all over the world:

Loake;

They produce footwear made of genuine leather and suede, hand-sewn. At the same time, there are significantly more production stages than with mass automated production. A pair can be made within a month, depending on the type of material and the complexity of the shape.

In terms of shapes and designs, the most popular handcrafted boots are:

They differ in the type of lacing. Oxfords have a closed lacing that is hidden by the front of the boot. The side parts are sewn in a wedge shape, perforation is possible.

Derbies, on the other hand, have open lacing, and the side parts are sewn over the front part so that when the boot lacing is untied, it freely diverges. Derby shoes can also be perforated and are considered the most versatile shoe for any occasion.

The entire structure of the shoe is divided into upper and lower parts. The upper part consists of the following elements:

Toe - covers the toes, withstands the greatest mechanical stress when worn.
Vamp - Covers the back of the foot and connects the toe, tongue and boot.
Ankle boots - cover the ankle joint, they are sewn to the vamp.
Grommet is the upper part of the shoe designed for lace holes or hooks.
Back - protects the heel and foot, fixes the heel, made of tough leather.
Tongue - Covers the top of the foot, sewn to the vamp.
Insole - connects the top and bottom.

As part of the lower part of the product:

Sole - sewn along the contour with the upper part, divided into soles, shanks, welts and fillers.
Heel - Raises the heel and attaches to the sole, the top layer can be rubber.
Heel - protects the heel from chafing.
Rant is a connecting element between parts.
Protective inserts - prevent abrasion of the bottom layer of the heel.
Filler - fills the space under the insole, increases comfort during use.
An instep support is a wooden or metal piece fixed between the sole and the insole.

Knowing the design of the shoe allows us to make every detail with a higher quality, in accordance with its purpose.

Manufacturing steps

It will take a lot of time to make shoes with your own hands, but the process itself is simple and depends mainly on the correct measurements and the quality of the raw materials. The whole process can be divided into nine steps.

Tailoring custom-made shoes cannot do without this stage, the same applies to clothing. Taking measurements is carried out mainly to measure the parameters of the future pads.

Having prepared a block according to the measurements, they sew a preliminary layout. To create it, they sew on a finished shoe made of thin genuine leather. Here you should decide what kind of model the model will have, how the seams are located, whether there is a pattern or perforation.

A blank for a future pair of boots is cut from a sheet of natural suede or leather. It is important to leave a small allowance for compression and seam - it is impossible to cut out strictly along the contour of measurements, otherwise the shoes will be small at least by size.

Overcasting stage

The upper parts of the future pair of shoes, sewn according to the patterns, are connected together. This is a time-consuming part of the job, since when overstitching the upper part of the boots, it may be necessary to grind the leather, trim the edge, and tint it.

Tensioning the workpiece

At this stage, the last for the future pair of boots is already ready, as well as its upper part. Now this upper part is literally pulled end-to-end onto the previously prepared block. At this stage, the most important step is the installation of the insole, since the convenience of using the shoe depends on the correct installation.

Welt patch

A welt is a thin leather strip that connects all parts of the boot that are already stretched over the last. This invention belongs to Charles Goodyear - thanks to his technology, shoes can be welded at the joints and repaired in the event of, for example, cracked shoes, soles.

The sole can be made of different materials - they should be clarified in advance with the customer, prompting him the most suitable option for the desired pair. Leather or rubber soles are often made.

The sewn-on soles are reinforced with small studs - the craftsmen use them to keep the heel straight and secure. The latter is recruited from thick leather in several layers.

Sole staining

After sewing on the sole and stuffing the heel, it is necessary to paint them with the desired color - the choice of color depends on the tone of the boots. When the applied paint dries, the pillow is polished to apply the master's trademark.

Polishing

Hand-made boots ends with the most important stage - polishing and bringing the finished pair to an ideal state. After polishing, a smooth, elastic, perfectly cleaned pair with strong bonds is obtained.