Russian shirt name. Russian folk costume

23.08.2019

Since ancient times, clothing has been considered a reflection of the ethnic characteristics of each people; it is a vivid embodiment of cultural and religious values, climatic conditions, and economic structure.

All these points were taken into account when forming the main composition, the nature of the cut and decorations of the clothes of the inhabitants of Ancient Russia.

Names of clothes in Ancient Russia

The clothes of the people of Ancient Russia had their own unique, although some elements were borrowed from other cultures. The shirt and ports were considered the main outfit for all classes of society.

In the modern sense, a shirt for the nobility was underwear, for a simple peasant it was considered the main clothing. Depending on the social affiliation of its owner, the shirt differed in material, length, and ornament. Long shirts made of colored silk fabrics, decorated with embroidery and precious stones, could only be worn by princes and nobles. While the common man in the days of Ancient Russia was content with linen clothes. Small children also wore shirts, but, as a rule, up to the age of three they had altered clothes from their parents. Thus, trying to protect from evil forces and bad eyes.

Ports were typical men's clothing - pants narrowed at the ankle, sewn from coarse homespun cloth. Noble men put on over another pair of trousers made of more expensive foreign fabrics.

Features of women's clothing in Ancient Russia

The clothes of women in Ancient Russia did not differ in intricate cut, but at the same time they indicated the status and financial situation with the help of light and pleasant to the touch matter, as well as the decoration of the outfit.

The main components of the women's wardrobe in Ancient Russia are presented in the form of such clothes:

The first and indispensable thing is the shirt or shirt described above. Popular among the girls of Ancient Russia was linen clothing, called a zapona. Outwardly, it resembled a piece of fabric bent in half with a cutout for the head. They put on a zapon over a shirt and girded it.
A pommel was considered festive and elegant clothing. As a rule, it was sewn from expensive fabric, decorated with embroidery and various ornaments. Outwardly, the pommel resembled a modern tunic, with different sleeve lengths or without it at all.
A distinctive element of the clothes of married women was poneva, which was a woolen fabric that was wrapped around the hips and picked up with a belt at the waist. The poneva of different ethnic groups differed in color scheme, for example, the Vyatichi tribes wore a poneva in a blue cage, and the Radimichi tribes preferred red.
A shirt for a holiday was called a long-sleeve, worn by women on a special occasion.
It was considered obligatory for a woman to cover her head.

Winter clothes of Ancient Russia

The geographical position and climatic conditions with severe winters and fairly cool summers largely determined a number of features of the clothes of the inhabitants of Ancient Russia. So in winter, a casing was used as outerwear - made of animal skin turned inside out with fur. Ordinary peasants wore sheepskin coats. Fur coats and sheepskin coats for the nobility served not only as a means of protection from the cold, but also as a demonstration of their status in the warm season.

In general, the clothes of Ancient Russia were distinguished by their layering, bright ornaments and embroidery. Embroidery and drawings on clothes also acted as amulets, it was believed that they were able to protect a person from troubles and evil forces. The quality of clothes of different classes of society was strikingly different. So expensive imported materials prevailed among the nobility, ordinary peasants wore clothes made of homespun cloth.

For many centuries, the Russian folk peasant costume was characterized by the invariability of the cut and the traditional character of the ornament. This is explained by the conservative way of life of the peasant, the stability of events passed down from generation to generation. Our work uses portraits of artists and illustrations of museum exhibits, which is very important for studying the history of costume in Russia. We can analyze the combination and mutual influence of two directions in clothing - original and traditional and "fashionable", oriented to the Western European pattern - coexisting for two centuries. Changes in the costume of the urban population, which occurred as a result of the reform of Peter IV at the beginning of the 18th century, had little effect on folk peasant clothing - it almost did not change until the end of the 19th century.

Woman suit

The most interesting is the women's costume, which most clearly reflected the ideas of the Russian people about beauty. In the old days, for a Russian woman, creating a costume was almost the only way to show her creative powers, imagination, and skill. Women's clothing, in general, was distinguished by the relative simplicity of the cut, dating back to ancient times. Its characteristic elements were a straight silhouette of a shirt, long sleeves, sundresses extended to the bottom. However, the details of the costume, its color and the nature of the decoration in different regions of Russia had significant differences.

The basis of the women's costume was a shirt, sundress or skirt and apron. The shirt was usually sewn from linen and richly decorated with embroidery with colored threads and silk. Embroideries were very diverse, the pattern often had a symbolic meaning, moreover, echoes of pagan culture lived in the images of the pattern.

A sundress has become a kind of symbol of Russian women's clothing. Everyday sundress was sewn from coarse linen and decorated with a simple pattern.

The festive sundress was made of elegant fabrics, trimmed with rich embroidery, buttons, lace, braid and galloons. Such sundresses were a family heirloom, carefully kept and passed on by inheritance. For the south of Russia, a skirt called a poneva made of homespun wool in dark tones was a characteristic clothing.

The elegant poneva was decorated with bright ribbons and colored embroidery. An apron or zapon was worn over the poneva. A lot of attention was also paid to the decoration of the apron and zapon.

Another integral part of the female Russian costume was the headdress.

Women's headdresses in Russia were distinguished by their extraordinary diversity. The headdresses of married women and girls differed from each other. In women, they looked like a closed cap; girls did not cover their hair, they usually wore a ribbon or bandage made of fabric or a pattern in the form of a crown or crown around their heads. Married women wore a kokoshnik. Kokoshnik is the common name for a headdress. In each locality, the kokoshnik was called differently: “duckweed”, “kika”, “magpie”, “heel”, “tilt”, “golden head”, etc.

Having arisen in one locality and existing in another, one or another type of headdress retained the name of its homeland in the name, for example, “Kika Novgorod” in the Tver province.

Kokoshniks had a solid form of various combinations and volumes. They were made from canvas and paper glued in several layers and decorated with gold embroidery, pearl threading, mother-of-pearl dies, colored faceted glasses and stones in nests with the addition of colored foil and other materials that create a decorative effect.

In front, the kokoshnik was complemented by an openwork net of pearls, mother-of-pearl and beads, descending low on the forehead. Its ancient name is refid. Often the kokoshnik was worn, covering it with a square scarf or veil made of silk fabric, decorated with embroidery and galloon along the edge.

The part of the veil that fell on the forehead was especially beautifully decorated. She was thrown over the headdress with a wide edge, loosely spreading the ends over the shoulders and back. The veil was intended not only for weddings, it was also worn on other holidays and solemn days.

Tightly twisted hair was hidden in a “heeled” kokoshnik embroidered with pearls and two rows of patterned galloon. The other part of them was covered with a beautiful openwork net of pearls or chipped mother-of-pearl, descending on the forehead.

Kika is a hat with a scalloped front edge. Its top is covered with velvet, usually red, and embroidered with gold threads and pearls with inserts of small faceted glasses in metal nests. The motifs of birds, plant shoots and double-headed eagles predominate in the pattern.

Toropetsk philistines and merchants wore high "kiki with bumps", covering them with elegant white shawls made of light transparent fabrics, richly embroidered with gold threads. Famous for their craftsmanship, Tver gold embroiderers usually worked in monasteries, embroidering not only church utensils, but also things for sale - scarves, parts of headdresses, dispersed throughout Russia.

The scarf was tied under the chin with a free knot, carefully straightening the ends. It turned out a magnificent bow with a golden pattern. A bow was tied with a ribbon that fastened the collar of the shirt. A belt was tied high on the chest with a third bow.

Individual items of the traditional folk costume could be inherited, be ancient, others were made anew, but the composition and cut of clothes were strictly observed. To make any change in costume would be a "terrible crime".

The shirt was the main common clothing for all Great Russians. It was sewn from linen, cotton, silk and other homespun and factory fabrics, but never from wool.

Since the times of Ancient Russia, the shirt has been assigned a special role. It was decorated with embroidered and woven patterns, which contained in their symbolism the idea of the Slavs about the world around them and their beliefs.

The cut of the shirts of the northern Great Russians was straight. In the upper part, in the shoulders, the shirt was expanded with rectangular "polyk" inserts. In peasant shirts, they were cut out of calico and decorated with embroidery. The sleeves were fastened to the camp with the help of a "gusset" - a square piece of fabric, a part of red canvas and a damask. This was typical for both women's and men's shirts. Both "poliks" and "gussets" served for greater freedom of movement. The free cut of the shirt corresponded to the ethical and aesthetic ideas of the Russian peasant.

The beauty of the shirt was in the sleeves, the rest of the parts were not visible under the sundress. Such a shirt was called "sleeves". The "sleeve" shirt could be short without a camp. She was valued for the beauty of the pattern, for the work invested in its creation, and cherished, passed on by inheritance.

Epanechki were put on top of the sundress and shirt. They were decorated with gold galloons and brocade ribbons.

Sundresses were necessarily girdled. Festive belts were woven from silk and gold threads.

Sundresses predominantly of the same type prevailed - skew-wedge oar with openwork metal buttons planted on a braid, with airy loops from the same braid that also adorned the skirts of the sundress. In general, according to the cut, sundresses were single-row, double-row, closed, with an open chest, round, narrow, straight, wedge-shaped, triclinic, swinging, pleated, smooth, with and without a bodice. For fabric: canvas, sheepskin coats, krashenniks, mottled, kita, chintz, cloth.

Festive sundresses were always sewn from silk fabrics with woven floral patterns, enriched with multi-colored and gold threads. Fabrics made of silk and gold threads are called brocade.

In a festive Russian costume, an important place is given to gold and silver threads, pearls. The color of gold and silver, their brilliance and radiance possessed the bewitching power of beauty and wealth.

Men's suit

The men's costume of the Russian peasant was simple in composition and less diverse.

In all provinces of Russia, men's peasant clothing included a low-belted canvas shirt and ports that were not decorated with anything. Festive shirts were made of silk, factory fabrics, they were finished with embroidery. Shirts were worn loose, girded with a patterned woven belt, often with tassels at the ends.

The sackcloth was the name of the coarsest, thickest clothing, everyday, working.

Russian shirts had a fastener on the left shoulder with a cufflink or a tie on the darling. The men's suit also included a vest, borrowed from urban clothing.

Headdresses were high felt hats without brim, various hats with brim, black hats wrapped with multi-colored ribbons. Hats were felted from sheep's wool. In winter they wore round fur hats.

Outerwear for men and women almost did not differ in shape. In the warm season, both wore caftans, coats, zipuns made of homespun cloth. In winter, the peasants wore sheepskin coats, sheepskin coats, decorated with pieces of bright fabric and fur.

Shoes for men and women were bast shoes, woven in different ways from bast and birch bark. An indicator of wealth was leather boots for men or women. In winter they wore felt boots.

In general, the traditional folk costume could not remain completely unchanged, especially in the city. The base remained, but decorations, additions, materials, and finishes changed. At the end of the 18th - at the beginning of the 19th century, people of the merchant class allowed themselves to follow the fashion without completely parting with the old Russian outfit. They carefully tried to change the style, to bring the traditional clothes closer to the fashionable urban costume.

So, for example, the sleeves of the shirt were shortened, descended below its collar, the belt of the sundress moved to the waist, pulling the camp. Popular taste adapted to the urban fashion, catching in it something close to itself.

For example, under the influence of shawls - an indispensable addition to the fashionable European costume of the late 18th - early 19th centuries - shawls fell from kokoshniks to the shoulders. They began to wear several at the same time. One on the head, it was tied in a special way - with the ends forward, tied with a bow. The other was loosened over the shoulders with a corner on the back and wrapped in it like a shawl.

Russian industry was sensitive to the new demands of merchant taste and filled the market with colorful fabrics and printed scarves of various patterns and textures.

Details that do not violate the main features of Russian clothing - its sedateness, long-hairedness - easily pass from a fashionable suit into a merchant's suit.

For a very long time, the Russian style of dress "word of mouth complex" was kept in the Old Believer environment - the most conservative part of the population. Even longer in peasant villages, due to lack of funds and remoteness from the center of Russia.

At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, the traditional Russian folk costume was used mainly as ritual clothing, giving way to the "couple" - a suit tailored according to urban fashion.

"Couple" consisted of a skirt and sweater, sewn from the same fabric. Traditional headdresses were also gradually replaced by cotton and printed shawls, lace kerchiefs - “fashions”, silk shawls. Thus, at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, the process of erosion of the stable forms of the traditional costume took place.

The clothes of our ancestors, both peasants and representatives of the nobility, seemed to be the most diverse. In ancient times, princes, combatants and ordinary peasants differed little in their outfits, except perhaps only for the dignity of the material and some decoration. Over the years, the difference in dress between the rich and the poor began to increase. By the 14th-15th centuries, it was possible to accurately determine which social group a given person belongs to by external attire.

In Russia, underwear was called zipun, both among tsars and peasants. It was a tight and short dress that barely reached the knees. For simple and poor people, zipuns were made mainly from sermyaga or dye. Wealthy and wealthy could afford to have a zipun made of light silk fabric. Sometimes the sleeves of the zipun were sewn from a different material, for example, the zipun was made of white satin with buttons, and the sleeves were trimmed with silver. But usually zipunas did not have sleeves at all. Collars for them were made small and narrow, and the rich wore a large collar decorated with pearls and precious stones, called a collar. Some of these skirts had a lot, they were changed to look smarter and richer. The underdress was always sewn loose and tied with a cord. The ends of the underwear were tucked into boots. In addition to zipuns, there was also a sarafan, in which houses went. This is the same zipun only long, reaching to the heels.

The underwear also includes ports or pants sewn from linen. Pants and bloomers appeared on Russian soil with the arrival of the Mongol-Tatars and firmly entrenched here. For the poor, ports were made from white or dyed canvas, as well as from sermyaga, which was a coarse woolen fabric. Those who were richer wore cloth trousers in winter, and taffeta or silk in summer. The tsars and boyars had trousers made of heavy silk fabrics of different colors, mainly red, crimson and yellow. In the old days, pants did not cover all legs, but only reached the knee and were made with pockets, which were called zenya.

Shirts in the old days were called shirts or srachits. They were sewn from canvas, knee-length with a split collar and girded with a cord over the bottom dress. Often the collar was embroidered with red thread, silk, silver and even gold, depending on the means and condition. The collar was fastened with a metal button.

Various kinds of outerwear were worn over the shirt and trousers. Common people dressed in thick clothes: women in ponevs, men in zipuns - in Russia this is the most ancient attire. The princely mantle was called a korzne and was an ordinary sleeveless cloak, which was tied with a cord around the neck.

A caftan was considered a favorite outfit, which reached to the heels, and sometimes only to the calves, in order to show the people the boots embroidered with gold. This outfit came from the East from the Tatars. They also wore a caftan. This is the same caftan, only short and simpler. The sleeves of the caftan were very long, so that they reached to the ground and were gathered in folds. The sleeves covered the palms, and thus in cold weather they completely replaced gloves. It was also convenient to take something hot with the sleeves and not burn your hands. In elegant caftans, the ends of the sleeves were decorated with wrists, that is, embroidery with gold, silver and pearls. The slit on the caftan was only in front and was decorated with velvet braid. Metal lace (gold or silver) made with different figures was attached to the braid. Along the caftan, stripes were made of a different material and a different color in the form of circles or rhombuses, and laces with tassels were sewn onto these stripes to fasten the caftan. Subsequently, they began to use only buttons from 12 to 30 on the chest. Collars on kaftans were always narrow and small. For the rich, a turn-down necklace embroidered with gold and studded with pearls was fastened to the caftan. Winter caftans were made with fur and were called casings.

For traveling and riding, they wore special clothes - chugu. It was a narrow caftan with sleeves only to the elbow and much shorter than ordinary caftans. Chuga was girded with a belt, behind which a knife was laid, and a travel bag was placed on the chest.

Feryaz. This was the name of men's clothing, which was worn on zipuns and caftans. The feryaz was with long sleeves, broad in the shoulders, only without lace and a turn-down necklace. The feryaz was a room garment with round or square patches called samples.

They also wore coats, which were sewn with holes, with lace, with samples, like feryazi, and with embroidered collars. The floors of the Armenians did not come together, but were thrown one on top of the other.

Single row was outerwear. In autumn and winter, and indeed in inclement weather, they always wore a single-row. The single-row, wide and long to the heels, had large sleeves and elegant stripes on the sides.

During the rain, they often wore an ohaben, representing an ordinary raincoat with a hood. A cloak with sleeves was called ferezya. It was usually worn during the journey.

There was also an epancha. These are two types of clothing: one is travel clothes made of bear wool or coarse cloth, the other is smartly made of rich fabric, lined with fur. They put on this epancha when they went out on horseback and showed off in front of the people. It was made without sleeves, thrown over the shoulders and fastened at the neck with buttons or strings.

Fur coats were worn in winter. It was the most elegant clothing for Russians, since Russia has always been famous for its furs. The number of furs and coats spoke of the wealth of the owner. In ancient times, it was believed that noble people not only went out in fur coats in the cold, but also sat in them in their rooms, receiving guests to show their wealth. The poor people had sheepskin coats, rabbit coats, and middle-class people had squirrel and marten coats. The rich fur coats were sable and fox. They also wore ermine fur coats, but this was mainly just to show off. More fur coats were divided into elegant and sleigh. In the first, they went only to church and to visit, and the second were intended for weekdays.

Belt("yusalo"; "belt"; "sash")
was an obligatory part of any ancient Russian costume: whether it was a costume for women, men or children. They were tied up with upper, underwear, loinclothes, but its main purpose was protection from evil forces: according to ancient beliefs, unclean forces always walked without a belt. In addition, the belt reflected the social status of its owner, and was also a sign of military distinction. He could indicate the place of a warrior in the prince's army, his merits, belonging to any kind and, finally, marital status.

In Russia, men wore belts. The rich belts were silk and woven with gold and silver, velvet and leather. They were decorated with precious stones and pearls. At the belt hung kaptorgs (clasps) and kalita (purse). The peasants wore sashes that folded several times. They were woolen, silk, and sometimes intertwined with gold and silver (well, this is already among wealthy people). The ends of the sashes always hung in front. Daggers and knives, as well as axes, hung behind sashes and belts, according to Asian custom.

Gloves and mittens were used by all residents of Russia. Long sleeves replaced mittens. Russian tsars wore short mittens - gloves mostly only during cold weather. From the kings, gloves passed to the boyars and further down the social ladder. Small mittens were called sleeves.

A hat was an indispensable element of Russian clothing. She had four births. Wealthy people wore small hats, called tafyas, which covered only one crown. Such hats were embroidered with silk, gold and pearls. Noble persons of the house wore yarmulkes and fez. According to legend, Tsar Ivan the Terrible himself went to church in a yarmulke, for which he constantly received comments from Metropolitan Philip. Another type of cap, pointed, was called a cap. The rich made caps from satin, and strung pearls on the peg. A gold cufflink was pinned to the front of the cap. In winter, such a cap was lined with fur, which was wrapped up and out in a wide strip. Such caps were made with longitudinal cuts in front. The cuts were decorated with pearl threads and fastened with buttons. Poor peasants wore caps made of cloth or felt, in winter they lined them with sheepskin or some cheap fur. The third kind of hats was - a low quadrangular hat with a fur band made of black fox, sable or beaver (depending on the money). In summer, the cap was fastened for beauty, and in winter the whole hat was lined with fur. Holes were made on it with six buttons on each hole. Such hats were worn by nobles, boyars and clerks. The fourth type of caps was called throat caps. They were worn only by princes and the highest nobility. By the hat it was possible to determine the person's belonging to the social stratum. From here came the saying: "According to Senka and a hat." High hats meant the nobility of the breed and position in society. So, no matter how the townsman, merchant or peasant dressed, he did not dare to put on a high hat. Even the height of the cap was commensurate with the dignity of the family and wealth.

Princely throaty hats were made of precious furs with a high top. The hat was wider at the top and narrower at the bottom. A hole was made in front, decorated with pearls in the form of some figure. During the parade, the boyar or prince put on a tafya, a cap on the tafya, and a throat cap on the cap. Moscow tsars did the same. Noble people considered it a blessing and dignity to wrap their heads in several hats, and often in a room at elegant tables they sat in their hats and received guests.

Earrings, which were also worn by men in Russia, were considered an additional decoration. Gold chains with a cross were hung around the neck. Such chains were passed down from generation to generation as a guarantee of well-being.

Wealthy and wealthy people liked to wear a lot of rings with diamonds, emeralds, and yachts on their fingers. In the old days in Russia, the nobility did not have hereditary and official seals, and each made his own seal on the ring

The shoes of the common people were bast shoes made of tree bark. Bast shoes were worn in pagan times. In addition to bast shoes made of bark, they wore shoes made of twigs, also woven. Some wore soles made of leather and tied them with straps wrapped around the foot. The shoes of wealthy people were boots, chobots, shoes and chetygi. All of them were made from calfskin, and for the rich from Persian and Turkish morocco. Boots were worn to the knees and served instead of pants for the lower body. Boots had horseshoes with many nails, the kings had silver nails. Chobots were called half boots with pointed socks raised to the top. Shoes were worn not only by men, but also by women. In the old days, they also wore chetygi, otherwise they were worn. These shoes are borrowed from the Tatars. It consisted of a morocco stocking to the knees. With boots and boots, they wore woolen or silk stockings, and in winter - fur. Women's shoes were the same as men's. Posad wives wore boots and chobots, noblewomen wore shoes and chobots. Poor peasant women wore exclusively bast shoes. All shoes, except for bast shoes, were colorful, bright colors, decorated with patterns and even pearls.

Noble families had handkerchiefs for wiping their noses. They were worn not in pockets, but in hats. They were made of taffeta and trimmed with gold fringe. Ordinary people did not use scarves, but they did not suffer from this at all.

The old clothes of the Russian nobility in their cut generally resembled the clothes of people of the lower class, although they differed greatly in the quality of the material and finish. The body was fitted with a wide shirt, which did not reach the knees, made of simple canvas or silk, depending on the wealth of the owner. At an elegant shirt, usually red, the edges and chest were embroidered with gold and silk, a richly decorated collar was fastened at the top with silver or gold buttons (it was called a “necklace”). In simple, cheap shirts, the buttons were copper or replaced with cufflinks with loops. The shirt was worn over the underwear. Short ports or trousers were worn on the legs without a cut, but with a knot that allowed them to be pulled together or expanded in the belt at will, and with pockets (zep). Pants were sewn from taffeta, silk, cloth, and also from coarse woolen fabric or canvas.

A narrow sleeveless zipun made of silk, taffeta or dyed, with a narrow small collar fastened (encirclement) was worn over the shirt and trousers. Zipun reached the knees and usually served as home clothes.

A common and common type of outerwear worn over a zipun was a caftan with sleeves reaching to the heels, which were folded so that the ends of the sleeves could replace gloves, and in winter serve as a muff. On the front of the caftan, stripes with ties for fastening were made along the slit on both sides of it. The material for the caftan was velvet, satin, damask, taffeta, mukhoyar (Bukhara paper fabric) or simple dyeing. In elegant caftans, sometimes a pearl necklace was attached behind a standing collar, and a “wrist” decorated with gold embroidery and pearls was fastened to the edges of the sleeves; the floors were sheathed with braid with lace embroidered with silver or gold. "Turkish" caftans without a collar, which had fasteners only on the left side and at the neck, differed in their cut from the "stand" caftans with an interception in the middle and with button fasteners. Among the caftans, they were distinguished according to their purpose: dining, riding, rain, "tearful" (mourning). Winter caftans made with fur were called "casings".

Sometimes a “feryaz” (ferez) was put on the zipun, which was an outer garment without a collar, reaching to the ankles, with long sleeves tapering to the wrist; it was fastened in front with buttons or ties. Winter feryazi were made on fur, and summer ones - on a simple lining. In winter, sleeveless feryazi were sometimes worn under the caftan. Elegant feryazi were sewn from velvet, satin, taffeta, damask, cloth and decorated with silver lace.

The cape clothes that were put on when leaving the house included single-row, okhaben, opashen, yapancha, fur coat, etc. Single-row - wide, long-sleeved clothes without a collar, with long sleeves, with stripes and buttons or ties, - usually made of cloth and other woolen fabrics; in autumn and in bad weather they wore it both in sleeves and in a nakidka. A robe looked like a single-row, but it had a turn-down collar that went down to the back, and the long sleeves folded back and there were holes under them for the hands, as in the single-row. A simple coat was sewn from cloth, mukhoyar, and elegant - from velvet, obyari, damask, brocade, decorated with stripes and fastened with buttons. The cut was slightly longer at the back than at the front, and the sleeves tapered to the wrist. The fields were sewn from velvet, satin, obyari, damask, decorated with lace, stripes, fastened with buttons and loops with tassels. The opashen was worn without a belt (“wide open”) and saddle. The sleeveless yapancha (epancha) was a cloak worn in bad weather. A traveling japancha made of coarse cloth or camel hair differed from an elegant japancha made of good fabric lined with fur.

The fur coat was considered the most elegant clothing. It was not only put on when going out in the cold, but the custom allowed the owners to sit in fur coats even while receiving guests. Simple fur coats were made from sheepskin or hare fur, marten and squirrel were higher in quality; noble and rich people had fur coats with sable, fox, beaver or ermine fur. Fur coats were covered with cloth, taffeta, satin, velvet, obyary or simple dye, decorated with pearls, stripes and fastened with buttons with loops or long laces with tassels at the end. "Russian" fur coats had a turn-down fur collar. "Polish" fur coats were sewn with a narrow collar, with fur cuffs and fastened at the neck only with a cuff (double metal button).

Foreign imported fabrics were often used for sewing men's clothing, and bright colors were preferred, especially “wormy” (crimson). The most elegant was considered colored clothing, which was worn on special occasions. Clothes embroidered with gold could only be worn by boyars and duma people. The stripes were always made of a material of a different color than the clothes themselves, and the rich people were decorated with pearls and precious stones. Simple clothes were usually fastened with pewter or silk buttons. Walking without a belt was considered indecent; the belts of the nobility were richly decorated and sometimes reached several arshins in length.

As for shoes, the cheapest were bast shoes made of birch bark or bast and shoes woven from wicker rods; to wrap the legs, they used onuchi from a piece of canvas or other fabric. In a prosperous environment, shoes, chobots and ichetygi (ichegi) made of yuft or morocco, most often red and yellow, served as shoes.

Chobots looked like a deep shoe with a high heel and a pointed toe turned up. Elegant shoes and chobots were sewn from satin and velvet of different colors, decorated with silk embroidery and gold and silver threads, trimmed with pearls. Elegant boots were the shoes of the nobility, made of colored leather and morocco, and later - of velvet and satin; soles were nailed with silver nails, and high heels with silver horseshoes. Ichetygi were soft morocco boots.

With smart shoes, woolen or silk stockings were put on their feet.

Russian hats were varied, and their shape had its own meaning in everyday life. The top of the head was covered with a tafya, a small cap made of morocco, satin, velvet or brocade, sometimes richly decorated. A common headdress was a cap with a longitudinal slit in front and behind. Less prosperous people wore cloth and felt caps; in winter they were lined with cheap fur. Elegant caps were usually made of white satin. Boyars, nobles and clerks in ordinary days put on low hats of a quadrangular shape with a “circle” around the hat made of black-brown fox, sable or beaver fur; in winter, such hats were lined with fur. Only princes and boyars had the right to wear high "throat" hats made of expensive furs (taken from the throat of a fur-bearing animal) with a cloth top; in their form, they slightly expanded upwards. On solemn occasions, the boyars put on a tafya, a cap, and a throat cap. It was customary to keep a handkerchief in a hat, which, while visiting, was held in hands.

In winter cold, hands were warmed with fur mittens, which were covered with plain leather, morocco, cloth, satin, velvet. "Cold" mittens were knitted from wool or silk. The wrists of elegant mittens were embroidered with silk, gold, and trimmed with pearls and precious stones.

As an adornment, noble and wealthy people wore an earring in their ear, and a silver or gold chain with a cross around their neck, and rings with diamonds, yachts, emeralds on their fingers; on some rings personal seals were made.

Only nobles and military people were allowed to carry weapons with them; townspeople and peasants were forbidden. According to custom, all men, regardless of their social status, left the house with a staff in their hands.

Some women's clothes were similar to men's. Women wore a long shirt in white or red, with long sleeves, embroidered and decorated with wrists. Over the shirt they put on a letnik - light clothing that reached to the heels with long and very wide sleeves (“caps”), which were decorated with embroideries and pearls. Letniki were sewn from damask, satin, obyari, taffeta of different colors, but worm-like ones were especially valued; a slit was made in front, which was fastened up to the very neck.

A neck necklace in the form of a braid, usually black, embroidered with gold and pearls, was fastened to the collar of the letnik.

The outerwear for women was a long cloth fur coat, which had a long row of buttons from top to bottom - pewter, silver or gold. Under the long sleeves, slits were made under the armpits for the arms, a wide round fur collar was fastened around the neck, covering the chest and shoulders. The hem and armholes were decorated with embroidered braid. A long sundress with sleeves or without sleeves, with armholes, was widespread; the front slit was fastened from top to bottom with buttons. A body warmer was worn on a sundress, in which the sleeves tapered to the wrist; These clothes were sewn from satin, taffeta, obyari, altabas (gold or silver fabric), bayberek (twisted silk). Warm padded jackets were lined with marten or sable fur.

Various furs were used for women's fur coats: marten, sable, fox, ermine and cheaper ones - squirrel, hare. Fur coats were covered with cloth or silk fabrics of different colors. In the 16th century, it was customary to sew women's fur coats in white, but in the 17th century they began to be covered with colored fabrics. The cut made in front, with stripes on the sides, was fastened with buttons and bordered with an embroidered pattern. The collar (necklace) lying around the neck was made of different fur than the fur coat; for example, with a marten coat - from a black-brown fox. The decorations on the sleeves could be removed and kept in the family as a hereditary value.

Noble women in solemn occasions put on their clothes a drag, that is, a sleeveless cloak of worm-colored, made of gold, silver-woven or silk fabric, richly decorated with pearls and precious stones.

On their heads, married women wore "hairs" in the form of a small hat, which for rich women was made of gold or silk fabric with decorations on it. To take off the hair and “to goof off” a woman, according to the concepts of the 16th-17th centuries, meant to inflict great dishonor on a woman. Over the hair, the head was covered with a white scarf (ubrus), the ends of which, decorated with pearls, were tied under the chin. When leaving the house, married women put on a “kiku”, which surrounded the head in the form of a wide ribbon, the ends of which were connected at the back of the head; the top was covered with colored cloth; the front part - the ochelie - was richly decorated with pearls and precious stones; the headdress could be separated or attached to another headdress, depending on the need. In front of the kick, pearl strands (lower) that fell to the shoulders were hung, four or six on each side. When leaving the house, women put on a hat with a brim and with falling red cords or a black velvet hat with a fur trim over the ubrus.

The kokoshnik served as a headdress for both women and girls. It looked like a fan or a fan attached to a volosnik. The headpiece of the kokoshnik was embroidered with gold, pearls or multi-colored silk and beads.

The girls wore crowns on their heads, to which pearl or beaded pendants (cassocks) with precious stones were attached. The girlish crown always left her hair open, which was a symbol of girlhood. By winter, girls from wealthy families were sewn tall sable or beaver hats (“columns”) with a silk top, from under which loose hair or a braid with red ribbons woven into it descended onto their backs. Girls from poor families wore bandages that tapered at the back and fell down the back with long ends.

Women and girls of all strata of the population adorned themselves with earrings, which were varied: copper, silver, gold, with yachts, emeralds, "sparks" (small pebbles). Solid gemstone earrings were rare. Bracelets with pearls and stones served as decoration for the hands, and on the fingers - rings and rings, gold and silver, with small pearls.

A rich neck decoration for women and girls was a monisto, consisting of precious stones, gold and silver plaques, pearls, garnets; in “the old days, a row of small crosses was hung from the monist.

Moscow women loved jewelry and were famous for their pleasant appearance, but in order to be considered beautiful, according to the Moscow people of the 16th-17th centuries, one had to be a portly, magnificent woman, rouged and made up. The harmony of a thin camp, the grace of a young girl in the eyes of the then beauty lovers had little value.

According to the description of Olearius, Russian women were of medium height, slender build, and had a gentle face; city dwellers all blushed, eyebrows and eyelashes were tinted with black or brown paint. This custom was so rooted that when the wife of the Moscow nobleman prince, Ivan Borisovich Cherkasov, a beautiful woman, did not want to blush, the wives of other boyars persuaded her not to neglect the custom of her native land, not to disgrace other women and ensured that this naturally beautiful woman I had to give in and apply rouge.

Although, compared with rich noble people, the clothes of the "black" townspeople and peasants were simpler and less elegant, nevertheless, in this environment there were rich outfits that accumulated from generation to generation. Clothes were usually made at home. And the very cut of ancient clothes - without a waist, in the form of a dressing gown - made it suitable for many.

It is worth noting that the clothing of ancient Russia had its own specific features, because it determined the lifestyle of the inhabitants of that time, their worldview and attitude to everything around them. Clothing in Ancient Russia was distinguished by its individual style, although some elements were nevertheless borrowed from other peoples of the world.

So, the clothes of ancient Russian clothes had the following characteristics:

http://nauka254.ru/

Clothing for every inhabitant of Russia was an essential attribute, as it protected the body from cold and heat, and also protected its owner from evil spirits, that is, protected him. As a talisman, people wore all kinds of jewelry, amulets, and made embroidery on things.
It is worth noting that both princes and ordinary people wore similar clothes in their structure. But the difference was still - in the materials from which the clothes were sewn. For example, linen clothes were especially common among the peasants, but the princes used materials for these purposes that were brought from distant overseas countries.
If we talk about children, then at that time they wore mostly long shirts. As a rule, children's clothes were sewn from old parental things. The fact is that there was a long-standing belief that said that the clothes of parents protected children.
The inhabitants of Ancient Russia believed very much that clothes absorb the strength of a person and his spirit. That is why the clothes for boys were mainly sewn from tattered clothes of the father, and for girls - from tattered clothes of the mother.

Clothes for women

The main component of women's clothing is a shirt or shirt. If we talk about a shirt, then it was considered underwear, which was customarily sewn from thick and coarse fabric. But the shirt, on the contrary, the inhabitants of Ancient Russia sewed from fairly thin and light materials, which, as a rule, representatives of the upper class could afford. The girls were dressed in linen clothes, which they called "zapona". Such things were a piece of cloth folded in half with a cutout for the head.

More specifically, the zapon was worn on a shirt, while it was belted. Women also wore a “kip” (we are talking about clothes of a solemn nature). Such things were sewn from expensive materials, while there was a lot of embroidery. More specifically, the presented version resembles a modern tunic. The top could be both with sleeves and without them, the length could also be different.

http://willywillyschool.ru/

In winter, women wore special fur coats, and in summer - one shirt. If we were talking about holidays, then these days it was customary to wear long sleeves. They also had a poneva, which resembles a modern skirt. Different tribes had their own ponevs: someone preferred to wear a blue cage, someone - a red one.

Men's clothing in Ancient Russia

The men's wardrobe consisted of a shirt, trousers and a belt. The length of the arm was almost knee-deep, such shirts had to be belted. It is worth noting that in the sleeve the shirt also had to be intercepted with a ribbon. Men also wore an overshirt, which was commonly called a red shirt or top.

Speaking of pants, they were not very wide. Men's pants did not have any fasteners on top, so they were tied at the waist with ropes. If we talk about warriors, they had special leather belts with metal plaques. The princes dressed in clothes sewn from expensive fabrics. It is worth noting that the princes trimmed the hems with a golden border and beautiful patterns. Collars also had a golden color.

It is important to say that the rich inhabitants of Ancient Russia had belts decorated with silver and gold. Naturally, the clothes of ancient Russia were not worn without such an important accessory as shoes. Boots were made of morocco, sometimes they were embroidered with gold threads. Noble people could see a high hat with a sable edge. Such a hat was called a "hood".

Video: Kievan Rus: clothes, traditions, culture

Read also:

The oldest cave paintings of primitive people were amazing images that were mainly painted on stone walls. It is worth noting that in general, cave painting is unique. Today, perhaps, each person identified by video or photo that rock
It is no secret that one of the most important mysteries in the chronology, as well as calendars, is the date that was taken as the beginning of the countdown. Today, the chronology in ancient Russia is a rather controversial issue.
The main prerequisites for the emergence of the Old Russian state developed during the 6th-8th centuries. During this period of time, a large number of different events took place: the collapse of the tribal system, the formation of tribal unions, the replacement of tribal division, etc. It should be noted that the ancient