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Knitted dress with a long one-piece sleeve. One-piece sleeve dress: how to choose and wear? Batwing sleeve dress pattern

Sewing - Sewing blouses and dresses - We sew a summer dress with a one-piece sleeve

Pattern of a summer dress with sleeves

The length of the dress from the waist is about 60 cm. To model the front half of the dress, close the chest tuck, transfer it to the armhole. Deepen the front neckline by 1-2 cm. Extend the shoulder length by 29 cm and draw the line of the bottom of the sleeve with the cuff at a right angle. Cuff and hem allowance 10 cm (finished cuff width 5 cm). Round the sleeve to the side line.

Set aside 5 cm from the waist line and draw a horizontal line. Cut the pattern along the red lines, shorten the middle part of the set-in belt to the depth of the waist tuck.

Model the back of the dress as shown in Figure 2. To deepen the armhole line, cut the back horizontally and move it apart by 1-2 cm. Deepen the neckline by 20 cm and 1-2 cm along the shoulder line, draw the neckline. Take off the sleeve configuration from the pattern of the front half of the dress. Model the set-in part of the belt in the same way as the front half. Additionally, model a vent 8 cm wide (4 cm finished) and 0.33 lengths of the skirt length.

Separately, cut on paper the undercut facings of the neckline of the front and back, 4 cm wide.


How to cut out a dress

To sew a dress, you will need 1.7 m of satin 145 cm wide, a hidden zipper 50 cm long, sewing threads.

Cut out the details of the dress with seam allowances of 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the dress and sleeves - 4 cm.

It is very important for every woman to be unique and unique. It can be seen that a significant part of branded clothing is tailored according to the simplest patterns. Models of dresses with one-piece sleeves can be found in the latest collections of fashion designers.

Making a choice between acquiring an expensive dress and making things of individual tailoring, many will prefer the second option. A dress like this Roya is perfect for any figure. It is not difficult to build a basic pattern for such a model and sew it with your own hands and even beginner craftswomen without experience can do it.

The concept of "one-piece" is closely related to the features of the cut. The model of such a sleeve is made by cutting out the front and back along with the detail, so there is no seam as such. The line of the shoulder with this cut is smooth, devoid of the angularity characteristic of models with sewn-in details. Thanks to this cut, the resulting dress model acquires soft and feminine silhouette. A dress with a one-piece silhouette allows you to hide the flaws of a full figure, does not allow you to clearly determine the place where the shoulder line ends.

One-piece sleeve can have different widths and lengths. So, summer tunics are sewn with barely covering the shoulders. Dresses for the office, evening long dresses can be up to the elbow or more. Dress patterns made do it yourself, can be fitted, semi-adjacent or straight silhouette.

An interesting option for a one-piece sleeve is raglan. Raglan was invented during the years of the Crimean War and was used when sewing uniforms for the military in order to protect them in the rain, for this, the raglan in military uniform was cut without a shoulder seam. When cutting this option, along with the shoulder part, the sleeve is also cut out and sewn to the neck. The features of this cut include the presence of an open armhole, the possible absence of a shoulder seam, and a deep armhole. A tuck may be located in place of the shoulder seam, there may be a top seam.

What to consider when cutting

We can say that the one-piece sleeve is suitable for most types of figures. It looks great in a business image, models for a solemn exit, presenting the possibility of creating your own style. With the help of such a cut, you can successfully emphasize the beauty of the hands or hide their shortcomings. To do this, you need to choose the right sleeve length. There are the following tips for choosing the right model for you:

  • a short one-piece sleeve suits women with narrow shoulders and graceful lines of arms;
  • sleeve length to the elbow and more suitable for women with full arms, as it allows you to hide the imperfections of the upper arms;
  • the three-quarter length sleeve is perfect for the well-trained ladies as it allows hide overly inflated arms.

There are figures for which this style is not recommended, as it makes the figure even looser and visually adds volume in problem areas. Dresses with one-piece sleeves are not recommended for owners the following features of the figures:

  • women with an apple-shaped figure;
  • very full women with wide round faces;
  • women with very large bust sizes.

Long Sleeve Dress Pattern

To build a one-piece sleeve, the following tools are needed:

  • scissors;
  • paper for building patterns;
  • measuring tape;
  • pencil and ruler;
  • felt-tip pen for fabric, instead of which soap or chalk can also be used.

Consistently build a pattern:

  1. We reduce the darts, thereby extending the armhole in front by a centimeter. In this case, the armhole of the back is extended by two centimeters.
  2. To obtain a pattern, we draw perpendicular lines through the obtained points. Near the armhole, raise the shoulder line by 5 mm in front and 7 mm from the back. Set aside a distance of at least 7 cm from the edge of the shoulder. We increase the neckline from the back.
  3. At an angle of 90 degrees, we draw the cut lines of the sleeve. We form the line of the bottom of the sleeve.
  4. With a smooth arc to the waist, we connect the lower cut.

There are various variations of models of straight one-piece dresses. Having mastered the principle of construction, you can model and build:

  • pattern of a straight-cut dress with short sleeves;
  • pattern of a straight-cut dress with long sleeves;
  • easy-to-tailor kimono dresses;
  • pattern of a tunic with a one-piece sleeve of various lengths;
  • batwing dresses.

The principle of construction of each of the models is simple and very similar, while there are a number of features. When designing a pattern for a long one-piece sleeve, the angle of inclination of the upper cut is of great importance:

  • with a slight slope, the bodice of the future product will have a rather large volume;
  • with a large inclination, the bodice of the future product will have a clear and strict shape in the shoulder and armhole area.

Depending on the angle of inclination, the width of the sleeve is selected. If you want to get a wide sleeve, you must choose the minimum slope of the upper cut and the recess of the armhole. In the “bat” style, when constructing a pattern, the armhole is extended to the waist or hips, so that it practically forms a semicircle.

Particular attention must be paid to the correct choice of fabric for sewing the future product. For tailoring a tunic pattern with a one-piece sleeve, the most suitable choice is a soft, easily draped fabric. When choosing a kimono dress option, the pattern should take into account the material from which the future model will be made. The fabric should be soft, light, and to add chic to the future product, it should have a rich palette of colors. When choosing a material for tailoring, it is necessary to take into account its features. When choosing knitwear, pay attention to the following nuances:

  • knitted fabric when cutting, the fabric cannot be strongly stretched, otherwise the manufactured product will be severely deformed;
  • it is necessary to take into account the possible shrinkage after washing;
  • before cutting, the material must be ironed, while you can not use an iron without an iron, otherwise the material will shine.

To make a pattern of a dress with a one-piece sleeve, you first need to decide on the style - this dress will be with a short sleeve, three quarters, or with a long sleeve. A straight dress with short sleeves is more suitable for the summer, while a long sleeve is a great option for work.

After you have decided on the style, you need to choose the material for sewing - it will be a light chiffon dress or a flowing kimono-style satin dress, or maybe a long cocktail dress with thick lace.

Short sleeve option

Let's take a ready-made pattern-basis for the dress, adjusting it to fit your size. This style is perfect for a girl. This work can be downloaded both on the Internet and done independently on graph paper. To do this, you will need to take all the measurements from the model necessary for the calculation. The base pattern is suitable as a template for any dress you want to sew, just certain changes will be made for each pattern.

Let's start from the front, from the top. Close the chest tuck by moving it down. Next, cut the pattern along the tuck on the waist line and on one side along the tuck on the chest.

We glue the tuck, connecting on the sides. Cut the pattern at the waist.

We lengthen the shoulder in front by 5-7 cm, raise the shoulder itself by half a centimeter with the help of a template. We measure the new line of the armhole and draw it in the same way with the help of a template.

We make a back with a one-piece sleeve similar to the front part, cut it at the waist, there will be no darts on the back in the waist area.

The pattern of the skirt remained. This dress includes a bell-shaped skirt. For a skirt pattern, you will need only two measurements - From (waist circumference) and Du (skirt length). In the above example, From is 82 cm, and Du is 60 cm. Next, we draw two circles with radii from O:

  • ½ From - 10 cm. We get 82/2-10 \u003d 41-10 \u003d 31 cm
  • Du + R1 = 60 + 31 = 91 cm

AA1 will be equal to ½ From * 1.5

The pattern on this is ready.

Do not forget about seam allowances, approximately 1.5 cm, leave more at the bottom - about 2 cm.

In the style of "kimono"

This model of dress is ideal for full ladies, it will give the figure harmony, hide flaws. It will also look good on thin girls.

Dress with a long one-piece sleeve, the fabric should be chosen plain, without patterns. Thanks to the transition of tone from light on top to black on the bottom, the effect of harmony, lightness of the figure will be created.

The pattern is modeled on size 56. For this size, you will need a piece of fabric 2.5m * 1.4m, or 4m * 1m. More details can be seen in the photo below.




A ready-made pattern is presented, which remains only to be transferred to the fabric and add 1.5 cm seam allowances, 3 cm at the bottom and sides, and 2.5 cm at relief seams.

Nice outfit

This dress looks quite strict, suitable for business attire. It fits the silhouette, so it will look more effective on slender girls, any fabric for the dress will do.

Here we will again take the already finished pattern of the base of the dress and change it.

  • To begin with, let's decide on the length of the dress - from the middle of the back we will measure down about 70 cm so that the dress is not too short, but does not go to the floor;
  • Let's reduce the opening of the upper tucks, thanks to this, the armhole will increase in front by 1 cm, and in the back by 0.7 cm. Now we will deepen the armhole by 2 cm on both parts. Through the points that have turned out, draw lines at an angle of 90 degrees to the side cuts;

  • Raise the cut line of the shoulder by half a centimeter in front and 0.7 cm behind. To make the neck line, we retreat from the edge of the shoulder cut 7 cm;
  • We deepen the neckline on the back by 4-5 cm, reduce its length by half a centimeter at the middle line. Let's make a line in the middle of the back on the top. The neck will be made at an angle of 90 degrees to the line of the middle of the back. Let's draw the shoulder sections to the new neckline;
  • Let's move the tuck on the back to the neck line, connect the tuck on the shoulder blades and the tuck on the waist with a line;
  • To make a one-piece sleeve, we extend the line of the shoulder cut by 22 cm. From the point that we received, draw the bottom of the sleeve at an angle of 90 degrees to the cut of the sleeve;
  • Let's make a line of the bottom of the sleeve to the level of the armhole and extend it 1 cm down. Using the template, make the lower cut of the sleeve to the waist;
  • On the back we transfer the section from the lower cut of the sleeve to the side cut;
  • We move the tuck in front at the waist by 2 cm. We extend the tuck from the waist to the chest and to the shoulder section. At an angle of 90 degrees to the middle of the front, we make an insert 10 cm * 1 cm below the chest. We make an undercut line and a cut on the side. We transfer to the back;
  • Both parts - front and back are reduced from below by 4 cm along the cuts on the sides. We make new cut lines and draw a wedge skirt 8 cm wide.

Sewing your own clothes is a fun activity. With this method, you can not only get the desired thing, but also make it more original. A big plus in some cases is accessibility, and in some cases the product can be customized exactly for you.

A dress with a one-piece sleeve deserves special attention. This is suitable for work, and for holidays, as well as for ordinary walks and romantic dates.

Dress pattern with a one-piece sleeve: knitwear

To sew such an elegant thing is not difficult. You just need to give a little of your time and responsibly approach the work in order to get the desired result.

In addition, the tailoring itself will take less time, since the sleeves are one-piece, they only need to be sewn on. The rest of the product is pretty easy to work with too.

The pattern is very easy to model, as it is much easier to work with a one-piece cut. During construction, it is necessary to form all tucks into folds. If you make a bell skirt, then the pleats at the waist will give the dress a floating effect.

You can sew a dress from any materials, but if it should be airy, then it is better to give preference to thin chiffon.

So that it does not shine through, a lining is hemmed from the wrong side or an outfit is worn over a thin T-shirt with straps.

The pattern is built according to its own standards, so you must first substitute your parameters to achieve the desired result.

Dress pattern with a one-piece sleeve: features

This term is called a detail that is cut out simultaneously with a detail of the back and shelves, that is, there is no seam between it and the details of the bodice. This style allows you to make the product very feminine and soft. The shoulder will not be angular, which is inherent in models with sewn-in details.

This type of cut makes the silhouette more airy, as there is no way to determine the end of the shoulder line. This is effectively used in models with long sleeves: the details at the top are wider than at the bottom, which emphasizes the graceful and fragile wrists. You can make the effect more pronounced with the help of cuffs, decorating with beads or embroidery.

Dress with a one-piece sleeve: do-it-yourself creation

For women with broad shoulders, but graceful hands, a short sleeve is suitable: it will hide the shoulder, make the figure more harmonious. For owners of full hands, length up to the elbow is suitable. Hide muscular arms will allow a length of ¾, if the product is made of inelastic fabric.

Cut Option: Batwing

A well-known example of a one-piece cut is this style. The name of the style is due to the fact that when the hands move, it gives the impression of flight and outwardly resembles a bat's wing.

There are quite a few advantages to this cut option:


  1. Versatility. Suitable for ladies of different ages, with different types of figures. Graceful girls can choose models with a narrow skirt to the middle of the thigh, full ladies - a straight floor length;
  2. A loose cut will hide figure flaws, for example, plump arms or not very graceful shoulders;
  3. The style with a smooth line of the shoulder section will emphasize the beauty of the chest, even the smallest one, and the protruding tummy will become almost invisible.

It should be noted right away that this style seems to shorten the figure, so it is recommended to wear such dresses with high heels.

Pattern: choose the style of a straight dress with a one-piece sleeve

Slim fit

A one-piece sleeve may not be wide. A narrow one is cut out with an additional detail - a gusset, most often having a diamond shape. Such products are usually sewn from elastic fabrics. A similar cut can also be used when sewing jackets, coats, etc.

cutout

This parameter can be anything. For everyday wear, drapery at the collar, a boat neckline, a free collar of the “collar” type are well suited. For evening dresses, neckline cutouts on the back or chest are more suitable. For very daring young ladies, cutouts from the back, reaching the very waist, are suitable.

fabrics

Usually, for this type of dress, light fabrics are used, which are distinguished by good drapery, falling in waves. Winter models are sewn from dense, but soft materials. For everyday wear, knitwear products have proven themselves well. For special occasions, light chiffon, satin, soft natural silk or velvet are suitable.

A one-piece cut, especially in a bat style, is what beginners need. It is recommended to choose a fabric that is catchy, expensive in appearance and touch, with an original color or pattern. In addition, it is better to give preference to fabrics that do not crumple well into folds, for example, knitwear, viscose, angora; more difficult to process - silk, coarse calico, linen.

Dress pattern with a one-piece sleeve for thin and full

Who suits

This style is universal:

  • it is suitable for young and slender, as it is convenient to use;
  • girls with a male body type - a soft line of the shoulder gives more femininity;
  • with a triangle-type figure - balances the heavy lower part with a narrow top;
  • full - successfully hides the imperfection of the figure.

Who is not suitable


  • with the type of figure "apple", when the weight is concentrated on the stomach and chest;
  • full women with wide round faces;
  • with very large breasts.

How to tailor a straight dress with a one-piece sleeve

You can do this yourself or use a ready-made one. You can ask a familiar seamstress to make the base, so that later you can independently model the styles. From one base, in the future, you can make patterns with flared skirts, reliefs, frills, cut-off and high waists.

We draw a pattern with our own hands

The size of the canvas can vary, but basically it is 2 by 1.5 m. The fabric is folded in half to make a piece 1 by 1.5 m. it hangs down by 1 m. Then the fabric is folded in half again. The side that has 1 m is the length of the dress, the other, which is smaller, is half the shelf and a long sleeve.

From the very top, measure 7 cm down and the same amount to the side, draw a smooth line - this is the neck. If this line is extended sideways, you get a boat neck. Draw a pattern with soap or chalk. It is worth noting that chalk is more difficult to wipe off afterwards, and soap can be removed with an iron.

Draw the back and front shelf

From the middle lay ¼ of the width of the hips and add 1 cm for the allowance and free fit. Then they draw a line parallel to the middle of the matter along the points that they set. For example, the circumference of the hips is 100 cm, which means that you need to deviate from the middle of 26 cm (25 + 1). thus, get the front and rear shelves.

Creating a sleeve line


20 cm recede from the upper fold - this is the depth of the armhole. How to determine the sleeve width at the bottom: measure the wrist or forearm (we focus on the lower cut of the sleeve) + 2 cm for allowances. Then the armhole and bottom are connected with a smooth line. In the “bat” style, the armhole is extended almost to the hips or waist (the line will look like a semicircle).

If you have not yet built a dress pattern for yourself, we recommend that you use our step-by-step instructions and do it. You will need this drawing in the future when mastering the modeling of various types and styles of clothing.

Let's copy on a blank sheet of paper the back and shelf of the bodice of the base of the dress.


We transfer the side line of the bodice to the middle of the armhole.

To do this, draw a line from point G4 down to the intersection with the waist line.
In our drawing, point G4 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole. If you are using a base built using a different technique, divide the width of the armhole in half and draw a vertical line from the division point, thus obtaining a new side line of the bodice.

Together with the side line, we transfer the side tuck.


Back
We raise the shoulder cut at the sprout (back neck) and at the tuck lines by 0.5 cm, and raise the edge of the shoulder at the armhole by 1 cm.
To do this, we set aside 0.5 cm from point A4 and set point A41. From the points O and O3 we also set aside 0.5 cm upwards and set the points O10 and O31, respectively.
From the point P1 upwards, continuing the line of the armhole, set aside 1 cm and put the point P11.
We connect points A41, O10, O31 and P11, we get a new back shoulder line.



Note :
1. The tuck on the shoulder line of the back can be reduced or completely absent.
2. If the model assumes shoulder pads, the shoulder line is additionally raised according to the thickness of the shoulder pad.


From point P11 to the right, continuing the line of the shoulder, set aside the desired sleeve length 4-8cm and set point P12.
To achieve a greater fit of the sleeve from the point P12 down at a right angle, set aside the bevel value of 1-1.5 cm and set the point P13. This value is not constant and depends on the tasks set, i.e. on the model, on the fullness of the arm (shoulder), on the degree of fit, etc. The final size of the bevel is specified at the fitting.



The P11P13 section, which determines the length of the one-piece sleeve, is drawn with a smooth curve.



We reduce the depth of the armhole by 0.5-1.5 cm. To do this, from the point G4, continuing the side line up, set aside 0.5-1.5 cm and set the point G41.
From the point P2 to the right, set aside 3-3.5 cm and set the point P21.



Connecting the points P13, P21 and G41 with a smooth curve, we get a new armhole line for the back, i.e. back with one-piece short sleeves. We correct the side line of the back by moving the top of the tuck from point G4 to point G41.


Shelf.
We continue the line of the shoulder of the shelf and from the point P5 to the left set aside 4-8 cm (corresponding to the length of the shoulder of the back), set the point P51. From the point P51 down at a right angle, set aside the value of the bevel 1-2 cm and set the point P52.
We connect points P5 and P52 with a smooth line.



We reduce the depth of the armhole by 0.5-1.5 cm. To do this, from the point G4, continuing the side line up, set aside 0.5-1.5 cm and set the point G42.
From the point P6 to the left horizontally, set aside 1-2 cm and set the point P61.



Connecting the points P52, P61 and G42 with a smooth curve, we get a new armhole line, i.e. shelf with one-piece short sleeves.
We correct the side line of the shelf by moving the top of the tuck from point G4 to point G42.



Construction completed.


The resulting drawing can be used as the basis of a bodice with a one-piece sleeve for further modeling. Using the modeling methods known to you, on the basis of this drawing, you can create a wide variety of styles of blouses, dresses, robes, etc. For example, using various options for moving the chest tuck.

Cut details

In our article, all figures are given only as an example. You can take any size suitable for your case.

This is just one of the variety of options for building a short one-piece sleeve that exist and that we will master.

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