Beauty and health of teeth 

Fashion and style of the Second World War. Fashion and style of the Second World War Style of the 40s in clothes


During the First World War, despite the economic difficulties in many European countries, life in the home front continued almost as before. Women of the privileged strata of society dressed up, and fashion houses continued their work. In letters from the war years that have survived to this day, one can easily see this, as women described entertainment and their acquired outfits.


Things were different during World War II. During these years, hostilities engulfed vast expanses of Europe. The lives of many were in danger, economic difficulties befell almost all countries. In connection with the hostilities, the production of civilian clothing almost ceased. Many women put on male military uniforms and joined the ranks of the defenders of their Fatherland.



Women's clothing has undergone significant changes, although there were no major upheavals in the fashion of the 40s, but the masculine style was clearly identified. Civilian clothing was complemented by military details - belts, buckles, epaulettes, patch pockets. Women learned to be frugal, each became a designer for herself. A habit arose of walking bareheaded, or at least wearing a scarf, twisted into a turban.


Clothing from the early forties to 1946 was shortened and widened at the shoulders, the waist was clearly marked. A thin waist emphasized fragility and grace, because even in military uniform a woman remained a woman.



In women's toilets, the waist was pulled together with a wide belt, a contrast was created with wide shoulders, a sun skirt and a thin waist. The shoulders were expanded with puffs or special pads, which were called "shoulders". In coats, in order to emphasize the horizontal line of the shoulders, collars were sometimes completely absent, even in winter coats and fur coats.


Short sleeves appeared on summer dresses - "wings". The sleeve of the kimono, which at that time was called the “bat”, was lined to clearly preserve the volume and wide shoulders.



Popular details in the fashion of the 40s were a variety of pockets, especially large ones, as well as collars, the ends of which reached the middle of the bodice. The suits were with a very long jacket, often close to men's jackets, and also with broad shoulders, and a short skirt. A feature of the 40s was wearing a jacket not only with a skirt, but also with an ordinary colorful dress.


Skirts were popular - sun-flared, pleated, corrugated. Draperies, assemblies, wedges, pleats, pleats were especially preferred. Evening dresses, and such were, were long skirts to the floor, tight-fitting hips and flared at the bottom, narrow sleeves made of lace, bare shoulders or a kimono sleeve. Trousers came into everyday use, as stockings were simply a luxury.



The silhouette was modified - its shape could be rectangular, more often this shape referred to a coat; in the form of two triangles, the tops of which were connected together at the waist line (coat and dress); in the form of a square (jacket of a square suit with a narrow short pencil skirt). These silhouettes emphasized long, thin legs with thick-soled (platform) shoes made of cork or wood, high-heeled shoes, and flat-soled sports shoes or boots with tops. This form of silhouette lasted until 1946.


Women liked these geometric lines so much that the transition to smoother and more natural lines after 1946 was not easy for many. In some countries, especially hard hit during the war, coats were sewn from woolen or even cotton blankets.


Elegant dresses and even underwear were sewn from parachute silk. Fallen parachutes were the perfect fabric to create beautiful dresses. And the first who came up with the idea of ​​using them were French and German women, although severe punishment was provided for picking up a parachute in Germany.



Wool, leather, nylon and silk were strategically important materials in the 1940s. That is why, when there was not enough leather in fascist Italy, cork heels appeared on shoes from which Adolf Hitler's girlfriend loved so much.


Was there jewelry during the war? Certainly. Those who could afford a lot, even during the war, wore gold, silver chains - this was the most fashionable decoration, and those who had cramped circumstances - simple metal chains.


Brooches and clip-on earrings were universally loved by women of the 40s. Women decorated their outfits themselves - some with a fringe of threads, it is difficult to even tell from which product, some embroidered with angora wool, and some with artificial flowers. Flowers, flowers, hair nets, knitted with their own hands, it was they who rescued women in those difficult war years. Nets decorated both hair and hats.



Especially high skill reached these things in Poland. Buttons in the 40s were also special - covered with the same fabric as the fabric of the dress (where to find the same buttons at that time). Visiting dresses had many of these small round buttons. Women wore bags on a belt over their shoulders, sometimes they themselves were sewn from the same material as the coat. Fur was rare. But those who could afford it certainly wore it. Fur muffs were especially loved.



During the war, high-quality materials disappeared in European countries, production switched to the manufacture of strategically important products and, of course, weapons. Therefore, in the 40s, combined products were especially fashionable - fabrics and fur from old stocks, fabrics of different textures and colors, tulle became fashionable for elegant dresses. Indeed, in order to appear at an evening celebration, one could sacrifice one's luxurious curtain.


Women tried to find opportunities and showed unusual ingenuity and imagination, who is capable of what. In one thing, everyone was united - in color. Many wore dark colors, the main color was black. The most fashionable was the combination of black and yellow, white almost disappeared.


However, in spite of all misfortunes, a person, like a blade of grass towards the sun, reaches for life, for love. And this is confirmed by the songs of the war years, music, poetry, movies.



In Russia, and then in the Soviet Union, there were few opportunities to afford what was said about the fashion of 1940-1946, there were mainly “quilted jackets”, tunics, short skirts with opposite folds, tightened with a military belt, a scarf on the head or a hat with earflaps, rough boots and a desire to win. The only thing that was possible for the girls of the 40s was to put on their favorite pre-war dress and twist their hair into curls that were fashionable at that war time. And what happiness it was during a short respite on the fronts of our Motherland, when there was an opportunity for an accordion player to stretch the furs of his accordion friend, and for our girls (our grandmothers and great-grandmothers) to start dancing, or to hear the words of songs that warm the soul.



... And the accordion sings to me in the dugout
About your smile and eyes ...
Sing, harmonica, blizzard out of spite.
Call the entangled happiness.
I'm warm in a cold dugout
From your unquenchable love.



And the women of Russia began to dress in the style of the military of the 40s only after the war, at a time when Dior offered his own to the women of Europe. At this time, the first fashion magazines appeared in Russia, brought from Europe by the wives of Soviet officers. Those combined dresses appeared that practical Germans and Austrians sewed in the military 40s, a horizontal line of shoulders with “shoulders” or, as we called them, “lindens” (fake shoulders). After the war, our young grandmothers took out everything they had left from the old wardrobe, altered, combined, embroidered.



The most devastating war in the history of Europe was over...


Fashion, contrary to claims that it is independent of politics, is directly related to it. Here you can quote the words of the famous French writer Anatole France - show me the clothes of a certain country, and I will write its history.






The Soviet fashion of the 1940s, as well as the European one, was dictated not by fashion houses, but by the conditions that prevailed in all countries. During the Second World War, fabrics became scarce and the use of silk, leather and cotton was banned, unless it was for military purposes. This led to the fact that in the fashion of the 40s there were practically no decorative elements and other details that required the use of additional fabric, minimalism dominated. The main clothing styles of such a difficult period were sports style and.

As for the color scheme, it did not differ in its diversity, the most popular colors were black, gray, blue, khaki. The most common elements in clothing were a pencil skirt, a shirt dress and white collars and cuffs. Shoes became a huge deficit in the fashion of the 40s. Only leatherette shoes with wooden soles were produced. Hats were replaced in the forties by scarves, berets and shawls.

German fashion of the 40s

After the occupation of Paris by the Nazis, many of the designers emigrated, some simply closed their boutiques and left the fashion scene, among them Coco Chanel. Hitler decides to leave Paris as the capital of fashion, which must now work for the German elite. In the 40s, fashion succumbed to the influence of Nazi culture. Floral prints, plaid suits, embroidery on blouses and straw hats are in fashion. At the height of the war, clothes and shoes are in short supply, so women start saving and making their own clothes.

In the post-war period, the fashion industry is slowly moving away from the shock, and fashion designers are concentrating on clothing for sports and leisure. In 1947, a new star of the fashion industry lights up in Paris - Christian Dior. He shows the world his fashion collection in NewLook style. Dior brings elegance and grace back into fashion and becomes the most popular fashion designer of the late 40s and early 50s.

Feminine essence would not be such without constant changes in mood and appearance. The style of clothing serves not only the impression of your appearance, but also leaves a certain imprint on your manners.
Agree that the day you put on a delicately feminine dress in retro style, you will feel completely different from the day when you put on your favorite ripped jeans and an alcoholic T-shirt.
Let's figure out what are the main features of the retro style of the 40s, and how to dress in order to accurately fall into the image of your choice. The main features and features of the retro style of the 40s
- Lack of decorative elements, and especially - in the early forties;
- Accessories are in short supply and the simplest buttons are often covered with fabric, sometimes contrasting;
- General militarization in the early 40s: “broad shoulders on jackets and tight skirts;
- Fabrics in gray, blue and black;
- Checkered and plain fabrics, floral pattern and polka dots Silhouette one-piece dresses;
- A-line skirts;
- White collars and cuffs on dresses and blouses;
- Hair is tied with a scarf - there is no money for hats. Turbans are in fashion;
- Wide trousers, sometimes shortened;
- In 1947, Christian Dior presents his famous New Look collection. Asceticism is being replaced by times of "wasteful luxury". The image of a feminine seductress is back in fashion. The waist is tightened, and the fluffy skirt makes the hips even more rounded. Great attention is paid to accessories, jewelry and decorative elements.

Retro 40s clothes
The fashion of the 1940s could not help but be significantly influenced by the Second World War; girls and women try on military uniforms. The military style breaks all records of popularity and ... look no less feminine than ever.

Girls of the 40s also folded their lips like a duck :)
In the forties, skirts and dresses sharply lose in length. The shoulders of jackets become wider, but skirts and dresses, on the contrary, sharply narrow. It was the forties - or rather, 1947, the year when Christian Dior presented his New Look collection to the war-weary public - that gave the world a narrow, but always relevant pencil skirt. True, if a modern pencil skirt can be of any color, then the 40s overshadowed by the war dictated black, gray and blue colors.

Late 40s retro clothing by Christian Dior

Decorative elements are postponed until better times. What kind of drapery, lace and other embellishments can there be if every meter of fabric counts and can be useful at the front? We also had to forget about lapels and lapels. For weekend attire, only small floral prints or "polka dots" were considered acceptable. On weekdays, formal suits were worn - plain or plaid suits.

Retro 40s Style: Casual Suits
In wartime, fashionistas are no longer up to new elegant flirty hats, and if they exist, then these are “remnants of luxury”. The same applies to white fabric for a blouse - in Europe it is in great short supply. White collars and cuffs come to the aid of fashionistas, see photo:

Complicated forties
In the photo - a clipping from the fashion magazine American Vogue. Dresses of the 40s - fitted and one-piece; A-silhouette in fashion.

Retro style of the 40s: dress styles
However, in life, the colors of the dresses were less cheerful. But the images turned out to be even more feminine:

Girls of the 40s in fashionable dresses

In library
In addition to dresses and skirts, girls and women of the 40s are happy to wear trousers. Loose fit, slightly high waistline, see photo:

Fashion of the 40s: trousers
Hats were replaced by scarves:

Fashionista, 1940s
These were the women's shoes of the 40s:

Fashionable shoes in the forties


Retro 40s style
The most common form of eyeglass frames in the 40s of the last century was round:

Girls in sunglasses, 40s
In addition to the high-waisted bikini, pay attention to the cut of the bras. "There's something to it," isn't it?

Swimwear show by Louis Réard, 1942
Retro style is a new classic
We declare with all responsibility: during the 2000s, at least ten designers beat the retro style of the 40s, 50s or 60s at their shows. And if in the spring-summer fashion season of 2015, polka dot dresses with a fluffy skirt were borrowed from the New Look style (for example, designer Barbara Tfank), then in the autumn-winter 2015-2016, with the light hand of the creative director of the Chanel Fashion House, white collars and cuffs will be in trend retro style mid 40s.
Many celebrities are happy to dress in retro style, and Miroslava Duma is one of them. She very accurately falls into the image of a fashionista of the 40s, see photo:

Miroslava Duma in a retro 40s dress by Ulyana Sergeenko
Miroslava Duma is here in a plaid business suit. It seems that we already showed you something similar today:

Miroslava Duma in a casual business suit in the retro style of the 40s
Miroslava Duma in a retro 40s dress with a small floral print:

Stylish and feminine
In general, experiment and play with contrasts! On Monday, dress in sporty style, and on Tuesday - in retro 40s style. Listen to yourself: you will definitely notice changes inside and, most likely, you will discover something new in yourself: the form can change the content and fill it with new meanings. But don't take our word for it: check it out and see for yourself.

The beginning of the 40s of the last century was overshadowed by the ongoing world war. Military conflicts are always a big test for the fashion world. The attitude to clothes is changing, the worldview in terms of presenting oneself with the help of things. Practicality and durability come to the fore in everything. The fate of people is changing and representatives of the fashion world are no exception. Many are forced to adapt to circumstances or stop their activities completely. Fashion 40s - 50s of the last century was full of events both sad and joyful.

The fashion industry of all countries participating in the war was undermined and was in a deplorable state. Many Parisian fashion houses were closed during the Second World War. Among them Maison Vionnet and Maison Chanel . Some designers, including Mainbocher moved to New York. The full-scale program of moral and intellectual re-education of the French state did not bypass the fashion world either. The stylish Parisian was replaced by the image of a reliable wife and a young athletic girl more in line with the agenda of the new regime. Germany took over more than half of the entire fashion industry in France, including fashion houses, and the question of transferring French fashion to Berlin or Vienna was even raised. The archives of the High Fashion Chamber of Commerce were seized, including an extensive list of clients. The point of all this was to break the monopoly that allegedly threatened the dominance of the Third Reich. At that time there were 92 fashion houses in France.

There was a catastrophic shortage of fabric, so in order to save money, the length of the dress became higher and higher. This extended to both casual wear and evening wear. Since 1940, a certain regulation was introduced, according to which no more than 4 meters of fabric could be spent on a coat, and no more than 1 m on a blouse. Cheap materials began to be used more and more, and natural ones were replaced by artificial ones. But despite this, the couture did everything possible to maintain its banner. Humor and frivolity became the main way to protect against the occupying authorities, thanks to this, fashion was able to survive. While some claim that wealthy Nazi wives contributed to the preservation of French fashion, in fact, records show that fashion house clients at the time were a mix of wealthy Parisians, wives of foreign ambassadors, clients associated with the black market, and other salon patrons, among them German women were in the minority. During the war, fashion houses such as Jacques Fath, Maggie Rouff, Nina Ricci, Marcel Rochas, Jeanne Lafaurie, Madeleine Vramant worked.

During the occupation, the only way for women to add variety and color to their gray image was hats. A dress or suit is expensive to change, but a hat is the cheapest. Almost all hats were a turban, standing high above the head, as this model corresponded to the shape of the hairstyle. Whipped curls rose up or gathered in a bun, tucked into a net. In the USSR, such hairstyles were called "lousy house". And this was true, because in order to save money, they washed their hair no more than once a week. The purpose of the headdress was not to show the hair, but to completely hide it, and the shape of the turban did a great job of this.

The fashion for turbans came from the Caribbean. During the war, France was cut off from America, the main consumer of French fashion and the United States turned its eyes to the Caribbean countries: Cuba, Puerto Rico, Trinidad and Tobago. Women working on plantations in Latin American countries tied a piece of cloth like a turban around their heads to protect themselves from the sun. And thanks to the Brazilian actress Carmen Miranda , famous in Hollywood, the platform shoes that he made for her became very popular. Miranda was short (about 149 cm) and became a true promoter of such shoes. To look taller, she wore a platform and a heel of about 20 cm, and a turban on her head. The turban was sewn from the remnants of the fabric and for its manufacture did not require special materials or tools, as for the production of felt hats. Among the innovative milliners of the time were Pauline Adam, Simone Naudet, Rose Valois and Le Monnier.

Various packaging was simplified, the use of cheap materials such as wood, straw, bamboo, and plastic became common. Manual labor is back in fashion, only this time it is cheap. The platform on the shoes, as well as the accessories, could be wooden. The skin became more and more inaccessible, as it was taken for the needs of the army. For women, a leather belt should not be wider than 3 cm, in order to save money. The "patchwork" style, previously used for making blankets in the villages and never before in high fashion, is becoming popular. But due to the difficult economic situation, it is included in everyday clothes. Women used fantasy in order to look beautiful and elegant. A ribbon, a combination of fabrics and even curtains could be used.

Elsa Schiaparelli was forced to leave for the USA, but she did not close her House, but entrusted the management to the Swede Irene Dana. In America, Elsa was busy lecturing about fashion at the Red Cross. In her absence, the leading model of the House was Varvara Rapponet, born in Kiev, who emigrated from Russia. After the liberation of Paris in 1944, Schiaparelli returned to France, to her House, but during her absence, young designers appeared who could compete with her. In 1947, Elsa hired the French aristocrat Hubert de Givenchy to work at the House.

Schiaparelli's constant rival, Coco Chanel, closed her house in 1940. And in 1944, when Paris was liberated, Chanel fled France in order not to fall under repression, since during the occupation her cavalier was a Gestapo officer. She spent 10 years in exile in Switzerland.

One of the famous fashion houses was the House of Madame Gré, a French designer who created dresses directly on the model, without patterns. In her youth, she studied sculpture and painting, which she used in her later work. In 1933, she opened her first salon, which she closed at the beginning of the war in 1940 and left with her family for the south of France from occupied Paris. But due to the difficult financial situation, she returned to Paris and continued to work. She tried her best to resist the restrictions that the Germans set. She spent more fabric than was allowed, refused to serve the mistresses of the Nazis, and presented a collection in the national colors of France at a fashion show for the Nazis. And in 1943, the House of Madame Gré was closed for exceeding the fabric limit and for opposing the authorities. Madame Gré fled again and returned to Paris only in 1945, after his release. In 1947, she was awarded the Legion of Honor as the nation's moral authority. Despite the fact that her models were completely different from those of Dior, she had many fans. Draperies, soft fabrics - this is what distinguished her dresses from others. Some of Madame Gre's clients were Elza Triolet and Lilya Brik.

Many famous actresses of that time contributed to the development of fashion. Rita Hayworth, Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn were very popular and had their own style and imagination. For lack of beautiful lace, things in the 40s were often trimmed with pieces of fur. The silver fox, which was grown in the USA and Siberia, was very popular. Every woman dreamed of having a silver fox collar or muff. The colors in the clothes were mostly dark: brown, dark burgundy, dark blue. Purely for reasons of practicality, dark clothes did not need to be washed frequently. One of the most fashionable fabrics during the war was crepe (matte woolen fabric), and a very popular suit was the combination of a jacket and a dress. The most relevant style of the era of the war was: wide false shoulders, a belt emphasizing the waist, a straight skirt, patch pockets. All this was the details of the military uniform. As a replacement for the leather that was used before, reptile skins are in vogue: python, crocodile and lizard. Gold was requisitioned in banks and gold items became quite rare. Accessories were made of shiny metal, and details that had a clear military theme came into fashion, such as chains, locks, bandolier bags. The production of accessories and jewelry went into decline and the craftsmen made buttons and various decorations on their own.

Worth Fashion House, very famous at the end of the 19th century, lost its popularity and the 40s became the decline of his empire. The chief couturier of France during the war was Lucien Lelong, President of the Paris Syndicate of Haute Couture. And the chief designer at the Lelong House was Christian Dior, second designer - Pierre Balmain. After the war, they will quit and open their fashion houses. Christian Dior in 1947 will show his first collection called "The King", the distinguishing features of which will be an underlined bust, a wasp waist and a fluffy skirt. The hourglass silhouette, consisting of a jacket - a bar and an ankle-length crinoline skirt, conquered the whole world.

It was a post-war return to femininity and pre-war luxury, and also marked the resurgence of French haute couture. Dior's popularity grew rapidly, besides, certain advertising contributed to this, the editor of the American Harper's Basaar, Carmel Snow She said it was "a new look!". Thus style was born. new look. This was considered wasteful by many, as a lot of fabric went into skirts in this style, and there was still a card system. Some dresses required from 16 to 100 meters of fabric and tulle. In addition, appropriate tights and good bras were needed.

Along with this, Christian Dior used very simple buttons. He believed that ordinary black buttons with 4 holes were the height of elegance. Although the House of Dior also made military-style suits, perhaps for American working women who continued to be active consumers of French fashion.

In 1947, a young Pierre Cardin who started his career as a theater artist. And in 1950 he opened his own fashion house. A year later, he showed his first collection of women's clothing, and in 1957 he was admitted to the High Fashion Syndicate. He was a futuristic clothing singer. Creating vivid images, he did not particularly care about the beauty of the female figure. Rectangular silhouettes hid all imperfections. The avant-garde direction was the motto of his work.

But Cardin was not only the creator of the future fashion, but also an excellent entrepreneur. He was the first to sell his creations at a lower price as part of a new form of ready-to-wear sale. Collaborating with trading houses, he exhibited his collections under his own name, but at a more affordable price policy. For this, in 1959, he was expelled from the Syndicate for violating the rules and downgrading the image of haute couture. But Cardin turned out to be a visionary and after a while, many designers followed his example.

Cristobal Balenciaga, Spanish designer, one of the most famous couturiers of that time. He began his career back in the 30s, moving to France. In 1937, he opened his Fashion House and continued his activities until the 60s. For the Spaniards, Balenciaga is a "national hero" today. Balenciaga costumes are very expensive, ranging from $10,000 and up. One of the distinguishing details of his costumes is the presence of a peplum, popular in Spanish attire.

Shanghai became one of the capitals of fashion during the war, as a very international population lived there at that time: the French, the British and many Russian emigrants. There were many fashion houses that were opened by emigrants from Russia, and many women worked in cabarets, theaters, restaurants and carefully followed the latest. For the Japanese who occupied China, European fashion was a real discovery.

In the post-war period, the entire clothing industry was in a deplorable state. Fashion designers have long been in a cramped position and total savings in everything. To fill the cost gaps, as soon as the opportunity arose, designers began to use more fabric. A novelty that appeared in the post-war years is pleating. Straight wartime pencil skirts gave way to flared skirts well below the knee. Men returned from the war and women's clothing took on a new direction. She again had to look attractive, feminine and sexy. There comes a period of elegance, calm tones that do not frighten men.

Starting in 1947, small hats came into fashion instead of turbans and instead of wide heels and platform stilettos, in the heels of which metal pins taken from aircraft construction were inserted. In the era of new look, all delicate powdered shades have become fashionable. A new form of glasses in the form of "chanterelles". In the world of high fashion begins the "golden age".

In the late 40s, an unusual subculture was born in the USSR, which is a community of young people who imitate the American way of life. In 1949, after the publication of D.G. Belyaev, in the magazine "Crocodile" a feuilleton called "Dandies" this name was firmly entrenched in a new direction. The movement became widespread throughout the country and continued to exist until the early 60s. Young people expressed a negative attitude towards the existing system, moral values ​​and the whole way of life. They differed from the rest of the population primarily in their bright and unusual appearance, intricate hairstyles and stylish images, for which they were very criticized by obedient citizens and even carried criminal liability. Stilyagi promoted foreign music, emancipation, the height of chic was wearing foreign clothes, which were obtained with great difficulty and for this, as a response, they received a contemptuous attitude towards themselves. Despite all the obstacles, the dudes remained positive, creative about their appearance, bright and cheerful people.

Famous musician Alexei Kozlov says:

“The dudes had such a practiced meaningless expression in their eyes. Not because we are idiots. It's just that if we bared our eyes, if we looked at how we feel, everyone would see how much we hate them. There was a price to be paid for this look. That's where we screwed up."

In 1949, fashion made a new round in Germany, the first ready-to-wear salon was opened in Düsseldorf. This was the beginning of the mass production of clothing and the true democratization of the fashion industry. With the rise of pret-a-porter in the 50s, the choice of styles, fabrics, colors expanded incredibly, which made it possible to satisfy the needs of every woman.

The fashion of the 50s was distinguished by optimism, luxury and femininity. Gold jewelry and evening dresses decorated with beads and rhinestones returned again. Despite the fact that women were hungry for progress, many of them worked and already drove cars themselves, they accepted the feminine image with joy. Couture experienced something of a renaissance. Small corsets, narrow waist and active décolleté. Throughout the 50s, women still preferred French fashion.

Returns to Paris after the end of the war Elsa Schiaparelli. Her new color is fuchsia, very bright and active. Elsa was a promoter of surrealism painting and this was very strongly reflected in her collections. Schiaparelli's clothes were designed for young, energetic and independent women who were not alien to a new, extravagant way of dressing. But after the war, men were afraid of such women and too bright colors scared them away. Men were tired of fighting, they liked more pretty and calm women dressed in pastel colors. This played a decisive role in the fate of Elsa, because, following her direction, she lost her former popularity and in 1954 left the world of fashion, under the pretext of the birth of her two granddaughters, which her constant rival Coco Chanel was incredibly happy about.

The most famous couturiers of that time were Cristobal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Balmain. In 1951, Balenciaga completely changed the silhouette: widened the shoulders and changed the waistline. In 1955, he designed a dress - a tunic, which by 1957 was transformed into a dress - a shirt. And by the end of 1959, it ended with the empire line, high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimonos. Balenciaga differs from many couturiers in that he could create models himself from beginning to end, since at the age of 12 he was apprenticed to a tailor.

Hubert de Givenchy opened his first fashion house in 1952 and made a splash with mixed fabrics. Boutiques were opened in Zurich, Rome and Buenos Aires. He was called a man of great taste and understated elegance. His clients included Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy. At 25, he became the youngest and most progressive designer on the Parisian fashion scene. Givenchy's first collection was named "Bettina Graziani" after a young Parisian model of the time. The fabrics he used were not expensive, but he attracted customers with the originality of his designs. Givenchy sewed almost all the costumes for the heroines of Audrey Hepburn. She was his muse. After Audrey's death, Givenchy decided to leave the fashion world.

Pierre Balmain opened his fashion house in 1945. But it began to enjoy great success only from 1952. Balmain maintained the style of an elegant Parisian with a touch of glamour, and he also masterfully mastered the creative combination of fabrics and subtle color combinations. The clients of his house were supporters of elegance, simple cuts and a more natural look.

In 1953, they begin their activities in Italy Ottavio and Rosita Missoni. This year they open their small knitting workshop and this becomes the starting point for the birth of a new brand. In 1958 they present their first collection in a Milan department store under the brand Missoni. She was adequately covered in the press and became popular with the public. With the support of the editor-in-chief of the journal Arianna, Anna Piaggio business flourished. Missoni started mainly in the production of sportswear and searched for their own way, their corporate identity for about ten years. The coming decades will be the heyday of this brand, and multi-colored stripes - zigzags in ethnic style will be the calling card.

After a ten-year exile, she returned to the fashion world Coco Chanel. She was at that time already about 70 years old. She hated the new look and presented a number of ideas to the public, which later became the highlight of her image. These are quilted handbags on metal chains, large-weave fabric suits with gold chains, shiny jewelry, flowered silk blouses, monogrammed snaps and buttons, evening dresses and furs, long strings of pearls. But the first post-war collection was a failure and a fiasco.

The public perceived the models as old-fashioned and out of touch with the spirit of the times. But sometimes fate brings amazing surprises, and this is exactly what happened to Chanel models. This period coincided with the Warsaw Aircraft Convention, which allowed women and men to take only 20 kg of baggage with them. And of course, puffy dresses in the new look style did not fit in more than one suitcase. And Chanel's suits were great for transportation in a certain amount. In 1955, the public accepted the ideas of Chanel and adopted them.

One of Chanel's inventions was a chain sewn on the bottom of the jacket from the wrong side, so that the bottom of the jacket did not ride up. The lining should be exactly the same tone as the jacket itself, there should not be a border. The length of the skirt never rose above the knees, which, according to Chanel, were the most unattractive place on a woman's body. Coco Chanel did not know how to draw or sew, but she always did all the fittings herself.

In 1959, the invention of lycra revolutionized the fashion world. This changed the attitude towards underwear in many ways and led to a restructuring of the industry associated with the production of underwear. Floral bright colors of fabrics with printed patterns have come into fashion. And the most popular fabrics were taffeta and organdy, because they kept the shape of the dress well. The red line through all the 50s is the theme of ostentatious luxury, which people missed so much during the war. The theme of relaxation has become popular, something that everyone could not afford some time ago. This was expressed in marine patterns on fabric, applications on handbags in the form of shells and fish. San Tropez is becoming the most fashionable resort where all the playboys flock to.

In Hollywood, a special style of glamor was created, which was promoted by Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly and Lauren Bacall. Some fashion designers believed that a dress shown on the screen would be seen by millions, compared to models in magazines. Therefore, this is a more profitable investment of their labor and they actively cooperated with film studios. They did not try to follow all the styles of fashionable Paris, but tried to create their own version of classicism, which should be timeless. Furs, sequins, luxurious materials, chiffon were used to create costumes. The model with a deep neckline on the back was popular, the actress in such a dress looked very impressive. The most influential designers in Hollywood at the time were Orry Kelly, William Travilla, Travis Benton and Gilbert Adrian.

The 50s is a triumph of color and stones, not always real, but the main thing is that they shine. In 1953, a young Yves Saint Laurent, and after the sudden death of Dior, he becomes the leading fashion designer of the house. In 1957, Yves Saint Laurent introduced a new trapeze silhouette into fashion. The first "humane" model in which a woman could eat. This silhouette will move smoothly into the 60s, but will acquire a new sound.

In 1959, a significant event will take place within the framework of the USSR. 12 French fashion models and 120 clothing models led by Yves Saint Laurent will visit the country's capital. All 14 collection shows will be held behind closed doors, the audience of which will be high-ranking officials and representatives of the textile and light industry. During several days of stay, the collection will be shown at several factories in Moscow, as well as fly to Arkhangelsk.

The beginning of the 40s of the last century was overshadowed by war and severe social upheavals, so the development of cultural phenomena, and fashion among them, was dictated by harsh circumstances. At this time, not only people's views on clothes and how they presented themselves with its help were changing, but also the worldview of society.

The 40s of the twentieth century were marked by the rise of industrial production, which brought the practicality and durability of things back into fashion. In addition, since 1940 there was a ban on the excessive use of cotton, leather, silk, not for military needs. Special coupons were allocated for the purchase of viscose, which is why many people began to alter old clothes at home with their own hands. Thus, minimalism was forced to become the main trend, and the absence of complex decor and draperies became the main features of the fashion of the fifth decade of the twentieth century. There was not enough fabric all the time, so the length of the skirts became shorter every year. In addition, there was a regulation that indicated the amount of fabric that could be spent on the production of a particular thing. Up to 4 meters of fabric could be used for sewing a coat, and up to 1 meter for a blouse. Natural fabrics were increasingly replaced by artificial ones, since there were no significant restrictions on them.

If we talk about the dominant meaning of certain trends in the modern sense of the word, it will be military style. The main women's attire was a laconic cut suit with a cropped skirt. The jacket had square shoulders with shoulder pads, collars and cuffs were exclusively white, and the belts were made to look like army ones. Khaki became the most fashionable color, and fabrics were chosen preferably with a small pattern. A new model of clothing appeared - a shirt dress, and for the first time designers offered women a sporty style. The emphasis was on the waist with the help of belts, which were tightened on dresses or broad-shouldered jackets. Thus, the general appearance was more like a military uniform than a woman's outfit.

In the second half of the 1940s, the situation changed dramatically. With the end of the war, the regulation on the allowable amount of fabric ceased to operate. Society is tired of the military style, which has dominated all areas of life for a long time. Designers returned to elongated wide skirts and dresses, loose blouses, flounces and decorativeness in general. At the right time, Christian Dior entered the fashion arena and offered women exactly what they wanted.

Accessories in the 40s also experienced a number of changes. Elegant little hats soon disappeared from the wardrobes of fashionistas, and they were replaced by wide-brimmed hats and turbans. Oversized hats completed the minimalist look. Very often began to wear a turban. The main goal was to completely hide the hair, which the turban successfully coped with. The turban was sewn from the remnants of fabric and no special tools were required for its manufacture, which made the headdress accessible to most. Due to the shortage of leather, shoes with thick cork soles came into fashion, popularized by the Brazilian actress Carmen Miranda. Cosmetics for some time disappeared from the shelves, which is why women began to use all kinds of materials to replace them.

In the early 40s of the twentieth century, fashion trends were dictated not by designers and stylists, but by social upheavals and economic circumstances, which could not but be reflected in the style that was popular at that time. Due to the lack of fabric, skirts became narrower and shorter, and blouses became fitted. The female image more and more resembled a military uniform. Decorating the image was possible only thanks to accessories that were not subject to such strict rules. But at the same time, the fifth decade of the twentieth century can safely be called a decade of contrasts. If in 1940-1945 the military style dominated, then immediately after the end of the war, corsets, wide and long skirts, loose blouses and flounces returned to fashion. Such a contrast confirms the function of fashion as a social phenomenon to respond to situations that occur in the outside world.