Variety of decorative cosmetics. Decorative cosmetics - the basics of makeup. Colors and makeup

06.07.2019

People began to use cosmetics more than 5 thousand years ago: the pharaohs brought their eyes up, the inhabitants of Ancient Rome tinted their lips with fucus. But if in the past make-up had a ritual meaning and emphasized belonging to a certain class, today make-up is primarily a tool for creating an image. Everything that can be used for this is decorative cosmetics. We will talk about the basic tools that are necessary for a beautiful everyday make-up and correction of aesthetic imperfections.

What is decorative cosmetics

Decorate - “decorate” in English, which means that the list of decorative cosmetics includes all beauty products that allow you to make your face more expressive and harmonious. Among the main ones:

Foundations - foundations, creams, mousses, pigmented moisturizing serums, powders. You need to choose them taking into account the characteristics of your own skin color and texture and the desired result. For example, for natural make-up, the best tonal foundation is the one that matches the skin tone of the neck. For a seductive summer make-up, you can take shimmering powder or bronzer.
Correction - concealers, spot correctors, contouring palettes that allow you to literally sculpt your face by placing dark and light accents.
Blush - cream, pressed, gel, liquid. Helps to highlight the cheekbones and give a natural glow.
Decorative lip products - contour pencils, lipstick, tint, lip glosses with a glossy, dense, matte and shimmering texture. They make it possible to focus on the lips, adjust the shape and visually increase the volume.
Eye care products - liquid and gel eyeliners, felt-tip pens, pencils and shadows for eyebrows and eyes, mascara.

There are also auxiliary means, thanks to which decorative cosmetics will give a more expressive result. These include, for example, primers and other make-up bases that extend the life of makeup, highlighters that place highlights for a natural glow, and illuminators with light-diffusing particles that provide even skin tone.

Beautiful cosmetics for everyone

There is an impressively wide arsenal of decorative cosmetics that allow you to transform the appearance with any "initial data". Everyone has their own best beauty products. It is worth remembering that first of all they must correspond to the type of skin:

normal - does not need complex care and allows you to experiment with any budget and premium products;
dry - requires moisturizing, often has a reduced tone, is prone to peeling, cream tonal foundations and mousses, blush sticks and other products with a similar consistency are optimal for such skin.
oily - due to the increased activity of the sebaceous glands, it is prone to oily sheen, inflammation and irritation. The best make-up for such skin should be light, watery and breathable, without the film effect. The most successful option is mineral powders with absorbent particles, loose shadows and blush, natural products with organic additives that normalize the condition of the epidermis. Under makeup, you should use a base that prevents clogging of pores and prolongs the make-up.
combined - in this case, the T-zone may be prone to oiliness, and the rest of the face, on the contrary, dry and prone to peeling. To balance this imbalance will allow a good primer, on top of which any foundation ideally lies.
problematic - if the skin has pimples, post-acne, localized inflammation and other defects, it is necessary to correct them before applying tone and accents. Redness is neutralized with green concealers, yellowness is removed with purple-lavender correctors, age spots of cold shades are pink and peach-orange.

Over time, the skin loses elasticity, wrinkles become more pronounced, and in order for cosmetics to lie better, you need to smooth out the relief. It is worth using a silk primer on the face, a silicone primer around the lips, and a concealer to eliminate dark circles under the eyes and age spots. It is better to apply a base under the shadows - it will simplify shading and extend the life of the makeup.

In addition, you need to choose decorative cosmetics, taking into account the usual images. For those who love nude-look and the most natural daytime make-up, a high-quality tonal foundation, mascara, eye and eyebrow pencil and gloss of 1-2 win-win shades are enough. For a glam look with Diorian arrows and bright lips, you need a larger arsenal of tools. Fans of professional contouring, strobing, baking and other face correction techniques with the help of cosmetics will have the most solid cosmetic bag.

The primer will make any makeup more resistant and even out skin tone. It is applied to clean skin as the first layer. You can proceed to the foundation only after the base has completely dried.
In daytime looks, it is quite possible to replace a dense and “heavy” foundation with BB or CC products with micropigments.
If there is no time for a full-fledged make-up, it is enough to adjust the eyebrows, apply blush and lip gloss in a natural berry shade.
In makeup, one accent is enough: you can professionally highlight the eyes using the smoky eyes technique or choose a trendy dark lipstick color - but not all at once.
Make-up removal should become an obligatory evening ritual: only with regular cleansing and skin care can you be sure that the make-up will look neat.

Introduction

From the history of cosmetics

On the meaning of cosmetics

General classification and characteristics of the range of cosmetic products

Characteristics of the range of decorative cosmetics

Reliability of cosmetics

Characteristics of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics

Factors affecting the preservation of the quality of cosmetic products

Market formation. Market tasks. The role of the market in stimulating production

Expertise, quality control and certification of cosmetic products

Conclusion

References

Introduction

It is a sin if a woman looks less beautiful than she could be.

In recent decades, the consumption of cosmetic products around the world, including in our country, has been increasing. A huge number of new products with new consumer properties have appeared on the Russian market, many previously unknown firms, both foreign and Russian. A wide range, a variety of cosmetic products, of course, is a positive factor, but it often makes it difficult for us to choose one or another product. Intense and not always fair advertising often misleads consumers. Unfortunately, in domestic publications, cosmetic products are often assessed not by specialists, but, as a rule, by journalists, based on their consumer experience.

The range of decorative cosmetics produced by the industry is diverse and includes the following types of products: foundation, powder, blush, lipsticks and lip glosses, eye shadows, mascara, eyeliners, eyebrow pencils, nail polishes. In terms of the number of products manufactured, decorative cosmetics occupies one of the leading places in the total production of cosmetics.

Decorative cosmetics is an integral part of the life of women's society. It helps to emphasize the beauty of a woman's face, give it individuality and hide minor imperfections. Cosmetics allow us to be closer to the external ideal and feel more confident.

Beauty and health should be taken care of daily and systematically. After all, the wise words of de Lenclos's aphorism still remain valid: "There are no ugly women. There are only women who do not know how to make themselves beautiful."

In my opinion, the topic of decorative cosmetics will always remain relevant.

From the history of cosmetics

The history of cosmetology goes back to ancient times. Already primitive people tried to keep the body clean, to embellish their appearance. This is evidenced by the finds of archaeologists who explored the settlements of the ancients, and the works of ethnographers who studied the life of the tribes that have survived to our time. Body painting, tattoos, all kinds of balms were used in everyday life, and for various rituals and religious rites.

It is generally accepted that the birthplace of modern cosmetics is the Ancient East. Already in ancient Egypt, cosmetics were used quite widely. The art of making cosmetics was owned mainly by priests. Wealthy people used expensive methods to improve their appearance (both women and men were painted), using special substances for this, while the less wealthy used simple "folk" remedies. Caring for appearance was a matter of paramount importance for the Egyptians. In addition to the eyebrow pencil, they were well aware of lipstick, nail polish, hair dye, fragrant water and other attributes of the modern woman's arsenal. The caustic juice of some types of iris was used as a rouge (irritation of the skin by this juice caused redness, which persisted for a long time). In some cases, cosmetics had a preventive value. For example, eyeliner not only by women, but also by men prevented inflammation of the eyelids from the blinding sun and dry wind.

The ideal of female beauty of ancient Egypt is the famous Nefertiti, the wife of Pharaoh Akhenaten. The natural beauty of a perfect face was nevertheless helped by cosmetics: skin care, makeup, jewelry are obvious. The drawing of the mouth, eyebrows, eyes was emphasized by makeup, the cheeks were also tinted. It is believed that she perfectly mastered the art of makeup.

From the 16th century BC e. methods of using powdered alabaster and honey as a cosmetic product, dye compositions for coloring the eyelids green, and their edges black, have come down to us. Lips and cheeks were painted with henna. The oldest lipstick was discovered during excavations of the Sumerian city of Ur (35 BC).

A special place in the history of cosmetology belongs to the cosmetics of Ancient India and Ancient China. In these countries, there was a real cult of female beauty, to maintain and improve which they used mascara, face white, and nail polish. In China, it was customary for children to paint their cheeks with red paint in the form of an apple, so that the Almighty, looking at the children, would be pleased, seeing that they were joyful and healthy. And here is what the Chinese sages said about the beauty of a woman: "It is better to admire a beauty in the morning toilet after she powders her face." And one more thing: "A wise woman can change every day, never exhausting her wonderful transformations..."

To blacken the eyes and eyebrows, Greek women used soot, adding juice of astringent herbs or soot to it, and fixed it with a mixture of egg white and light resin. Lips and cheeks were blushed with red lead, or finely ground powders and compounds that cause a rush of blood to the cheeks.

In ancient Russia, women were painted with might and main. Yes, so that they seemed just painted with a brush. For cosmetic purposes, as in all other countries, mainly herbal remedies were used, the properties of which the pagans knew perfectly well. For example, for blush and lipstick, they used raspberry juice, cherries, rubbed their cheeks with beets. To give the skin whiteness, wheat flour or chalk was taken. Plants were also used to dye hair, for example, onion peel dyed hair brown, saffron with chamomile - white-yellow. Scarlet paint was obtained from barberry, raspberry - from young leaves of an apple tree, green - from onion feathers, nettle leaves, yellow - from saffron leaves, sorrel and alder bark, etc.

The first "Encyclopedia of Beauty" was published in Paris in 1806, it contained advice on how to make the skin more beautiful.

Late 19th - early 20th centuries characterized by intensive development of cosmetic production. A feature of this period is the cult of natural materials and at the same time the use of substances obtained by chemical means. In addition, the requirements for cosmetics have changed, its range has expanded.

Nowadays, the main rule in the use of cosmetics is the use of high-quality cosmetics, provided that they are harmless to the skin and body.

On the meaning of cosmetics

Maybe there are people who reject makeup, arguing that even the best makeup will not turn an ugly girl into a beauty and that a truly beautiful woman does not need makeup. However, such an attitude towards cosmetics is fundamentally wrong. It could be compared with the statement that a smart person does not need a school, and no school will help a stupid person. In the same way, there are no such ugly people that their appearance could not be improved by care, ennoblement.

Women's beauty cannot be viewed only in terms of cold, businesslike aesthetics; female beauty is always connected with feelings, it must influence the emotions of those for whom a woman wants to be beautiful. In the methods of cosmetic care, the personality of a person is manifested. It is not enough just to wish to be always in order cosmetically, one must also be able to do it correctly. The natural desire of a woman to be beautiful is deeply rooted in the biological and social division of labor. Human beauty is not given once and for all - it is constantly changing. And in accordance with the development of taste as one of the components of culture, people try to look more beautiful.

General classification and characteristics of the range of cosmetic products

Cosmetic products include products (substances or preparations) intended for application to the human body in order to cleanse, protect and give an attractive appearance. Cosmetics may have a preventive effect, but never a curative one. The latter should be prescribed by physicians, not by consumers themselves.

There is currently no unified generally accepted classification of cosmetic products. A standard for the classification and terminology of cosmetic products has not been developed. It is very difficult to make a clear classification of cosmetics. It is usually based on the properties declared by the manufacturer and often exaggerated for advertising purposes.

The general features of the classification include the purpose, functional effect of cosmetics: hygienic, cosmetic, decorative, protective, treatment-and-prophylactic and special (Table 1). Here you should focus on their main function.

General classification of cosmetics

Tab. one

Classification sign	Classification grouping	Types of cosmetics
functional action	Hygienic (cleansing) Cosmetic (moisturizing, nourishing, tonic, etc.) Decorative Protective Treatment and prophylactic Special	Soaps, shampoos Creams, lotions, balms, perspirants Powder, lipstick Creams for hands and body Toothpastes Depilators
Consistency	Emulsion Jelly-like Ointment-like waxy Powdered	Lotions, shampoos, varnishes Creams, shampoos Creams, balms Creams, gloss lipsticks Powders, shadows
Skin type, hair	For dry skin (hair) For normal skin (hair) For oily skin (hair)	Creams, shampoos Molochko and others.

Characteristics of the range of decorative cosmetics

The range of decorative cosmetics is divided into four groups depending on the intended use (appointment):

1) face products

2) lip products

3) eye products

4) means for nails.

See table. 2

A common feature of the classification of the range of decorative cosmetics is color(tone), the range of which depends on the type of cosmetics and fashion trends. So, in one scale they produce cosmetics for lips and nails, which does not differ in scale from cosmetics for the face and eyes. In addition, decorative cosmetics differ in the presence glitter or its absence (matte surface), as well as the presence of a pearly sheen. All other features of the classification of the assortment of decorative cosmetics are considered according to the above groups (see Fig. 1).

Decorative cosmetics for the face

The background on which the eyes and lips are emphasized is the basis of all makeup. Depending on the condition and type of skin, problems may arise when using powder or foundation for makeup. Therefore, makeup begins with the selection of a cosmetic product, which is called "make-up base" and is used in order to:

make the skin of the face smooth, even, hide minor imperfections;

Moisturize the skin and create conditions for applying powder, foundation, blush;

Protect the skin from the adverse effects of the environment and decorative cosmetics containing dyes.

Assortment of decorative cosmetics

Tab. 2

Purpose

Decorative cosmetics

When selecting basics it should be borne in mind that its assortment differs in skin type, consistency, shade and situation of use (for daily and evening make-up).

By consistency distinguish the basics:

Liquid - light, suitable for any type of skin, except for very dry, and for any age;

Cream - for dry and already elderly skin;

Firm - compact, contains powder, for all skin types except very dry.

By shade bases are from pink to dark yellow. The so-called additional bases, which serve to correct the shape of the face, have colors unusual for the skin: green, lavender, white. An additional base is applied under a layer of a regular base, thereby giving it a shade. So, the white base is suitable for evening makeup and gives it a special tone. Determine the color of the foundation in natural light, applying a little product to the chin line. In this case, special attention should be paid to how the color is combined with the skin of the face and neck. The base is applied to the moistened skin of the face, neck, décolleté with a cosmetic sponge (and not fingers), first pointwise, and then rubbed.

The final touch of makeup - application to the skin powder and rouge .

The main decorative purpose of the powder is to give the skin color and dullness, which is achieved by introducing pigments into its composition.

Foundation creams have the basis of conventional emulsion creams for any skin, but pigments (5 - 10%) are introduced into them. Therefore, the range of foundation creams is usually subdivided only by shade, for example, “natural matte shade”.

Cream powder contains more pigments (up to 30%), therefore it has a thicker consistency. When applied to the skin with a dry sponge, it gives a powder-like effect, and when applied with a damp sponge, it acts like a foundation.

Masking cream used for the skin under the eyes and masking minor defects. Such company products are produced in the form of series, for example, series developed by L`Oreal and Maybelline.

Concealer Pencils have a thicker consistency. They have a high hiding power and therefore mask redness and skin imperfections. They may contain bactericidal components (masking pencils of the Lumene-Clear Jine series - with antiseptic action).

Compact (pressed) powder differs from powdered in that when pressed, the pigment particles stick together tightly and, as a result, lie on the skin in a thicker layer. To improve compaction, a binder is added to the compact powder, which should not be much, otherwise the powder becomes hard.

Blush produced in two varieties: solid(powdered, compact) and creamy(fat-based). In composition, the former are similar to dry eyeshadows and powders, the latter to creams and masking pencils. Blush varies in shade. The range of solid ("dry") blush is wider, they are more popular than fat-based blush. As a rule, blush is included in cosmetic sets with powder or eye shadow.

Decorative cosmetics for lips

The basis of good lip makeup is their well-groomed skin without cracks and exfoliation. Therefore, all modern makeup products, like lip skin care products, contain vitamins, moisturizers and sunscreens. Make-up of the lips is preceded by their cleansing - with non-alcoholic lotion and cosmetic milk, if resistant lipstick was used before. Lip makeup is performed by three types of cosmetics:

1) contour pencil;

2) lip gloss;

3) lipstick.

Range lipsticks varied in color (tone), which is indicated by the tone number. Large firms produce several tens of tones. So, the Lumene series of the Noiro company, popular in Russia, includes 54 tones. The choice of color depends on age, specific situation (day or evening makeup), fashion trends. Lipsticks are divided into sustainable(leaving no traces of touch) and ordinary(soft, moisturizing, etc.). Persistence of lipstick is given not only by waxes, but also by liquid paraffin, silicones. Sometimes on the labeling of resistant lipsticks there is a clarification - “kissproof” (kiss-resistant, super-resistant), which refers more to advertising than to the features of the lipstick. Persistent lipsticks are produced by Max Factor, L`Oreal, Noiro, Lancome and many others. The peculiarity of the use of resistant lipsticks is that after application they must be fixed, for which you should not compress your lips for 1 - 2 minutes.

Moisturizing lipsticks are the least resistant, so it is recommended to use them with a contour pencil and not to apply during sports and on the beach. To increase the stability of ordinary lipstick, it is applied twice, after the first layer of lipstick, the lips are powdered, and the excess of the second layer is removed with a napkin.

Lip gloss- This is a cosmetic product for light lip makeup, it occupies an intermediate position between hygienic and lipstick. Sometimes the name indicates "lipstick-shine." Gloss is often applied to the lips with a brush - applicator. This cosmetic product is intended to protect lips, care for them, improve their natural color (natural make-up), instead of lipsticks to create a light summer make-up. For evening make-up, gloss is applied to lipstick.

Lip gloss is produced in one color or several shades (from 2 to 10), it may include mother-of-pearl additives or light-reflecting pigments, thanks to which the lips seem to glow. In addition, lip gloss can vary in the smell and color of the jelly-like mass.

With natural or light make-up, gloss is used together with a contour pencil. In combination with lipstick, the lip liner enhances the durability of lip makeup. It is matched to the color of lipstick or a little darker or lighter, which is now fashionable. Previously, it was customary to apply a contour pencil before lipstick. Now makeup artists have come to the conclusion that first you need to apply lipstick, and then contour, so the lips look much more natural. Lip liner pencils come in two types - in the form of a regular pencil in a wooden shell and in a plastic shell with a retractable rod.

Decorative eye products

In decorative cosmetics, eye makeup is of paramount importance. Today, almost 80% of young women in Europe prefer to wear eye make-up only. Therefore, cosmetics manufacturers pay great attention to this group. To create a neat and stable eye makeup, you should start by applying it to the eyelids. base creams for the eyelids, which are powdered on top, only after that they use eye shadow. Not all companies produce the base cream; it is included, for example, in the Lumene series. depending from eyeshadow makeup they are produced on a fat basis (similar in composition to lipstick) and solid, they are produced only in compact ones (similar in composition to compact powder). The stability of makeup when using shadows on a fat basis is low, so they are almost never released now. The range of eyeshadows is divided into colors, shades and number of shades per pack (1-, 2-, 3- and 4-color) and sets . According to the type of surface being created shadows are divided into matte, shiny and mother-of-pearl. The choice in this case is determined by the direction of fashion and the tastes of the consumer. The eyeshadow package includes an applicator.

To emphasize or change the shape of the eyes, tools such as eyeliner, eyeliner and eyebrow pencil.

Pencils for eyes and eyebrows differ only in color, and the colors of eyeliners are more diverse.

Mechanical eyeliner is similar to an eyeliner, but the eyeliner stick extends automatically and sharpens at the same time. This is a more convenient tool compared to a traditional pencil.

Liquid eyeliner is a new cosmetic product that allows you to very carefully emphasize the shape of the eyes, and without pressure on the delicate skin of the eyelids. As a rule, useful additives are included in the liquid eyeliner. This is the most expensive cosmetic product.

After eye shadow and pencil, the most important cosmetic product for the eyes is ink. Makeup, even sophisticated Sámi, will not be complete without carefully tinted eyelashes. Mascara is presented in a fairly wide range (Table 3).

Hard mascara with a brush is practically not produced now, because. she is obsolete. The modern range is represented by creamy mascara. Water resistance of mascara means that it does not form streaks when washed off with water, in the rain, but does not characterize its resistance to sweat and tears. On oily skin, mascara can also be smudged. It's difficult to remove it. When choosing a mascara, you should take into account the shape, size, thickness of the eyelashes and select a tool that will eliminate the flaws. To ensure safety, the product must be tightly closed, applicators and brushes should be washed periodically, especially when using mascara with a spare can.

Mascara range classification

Tab. 3

Decorative nail products

The range of this group is represented by varnishes of a wide variety of shades and auxiliary means - diluents and lacquer thinners, base, fixative, fast drying agent and cuticle remover .

Varnish - it is a solution of a film-forming polymer, including a plasticizer and a dye, in an organic solvent. Classic manicure is performed in several layers.

Bottom varnish (base)- This is usually a shiny varnish without dye or pigment. It forms a smooth lacquer surface on the nail, which is applied colored varnish, and as a result, the varnish holds better. In addition, it is assumed that the base should prevent the possible harmful effects of the coloring matter on the nail.

Top varnish (fixer) is a shiny, hard and durable varnish that should increase the durability of nail polish. Base for varnish and fixer can be produced in one bottle. The most diverse range of colored nail polishes. Typically, firms produce gamma in color - up to 70 shades, from light to dark. Ultra series - luminescent colors of the youth direction; they should only be used with a base, as they can leave yellow spots on the nails. Intop S.L. produces chameleon varnish, the color of which changes in the sun; This is a variant of youth club make-up.

There are a number of varnishes with the characteristic "quick-drying". These are varnishes, the drying time of which is 1 - 2 minutes, and the remaining varnishes - more than 2 and 10 minutes. Such lacquers may be coated with a quick drying agent such as Sally Hansen.

Manicure of problematic nails involves the use of not an ordinary, but a moisturizing base (Mary Kay), or a strengthening complex for nail care (Lumene series). Complete nail makeup lacquer fixers, eg Nivea series, or protective varnish. The fixer is used after applying the varnish - it contributes to its drying, or used separately, instead of varnish. Protective varnish applied to the color immediately after applying the varnish and the next 2-3 days, which increases the durability of the color varnish up to two weeks.

Nail polish remover must be active enough to dissolve the nitrocellulose and synthetic resins contained in the varnish, which do not dissolve well. Acetone, which used to be the basis of all nail polish removers, does an excellent job with this. However, together with varnish, it removes the fatty components of the nail plate, which makes it very brittle. In addition, acetone is poorly preserved, volatilizing even from a closed vial. Acetone is widely used today, however, the basis of more modern drugs are various esters: ethyl-, butyl-, amyl acetate or mixtures thereof, as well as toluene and some alcohols. They affect the nail plate to a lesser extent. However, they still degrease it, so emollients (fat additives, waxes, etc.) are added to the nail polish remover.

For removing varnish from especially brittle and sensitive nails developed creams and emulsions, in which waxes and fats are introduced in much larger quantities. Creams are recommended for brittle, exfoliating nails. They are a water-in-oil emulsion. Creams contain moisture-retaining (propylene glycol), firming ingredients, such as low molecular weight keratin derivatives, allantoin and a vitamin complex. All this helps the nails to compensate for the loss of fats and moisture, maintain shine and elasticity, and become more durable. Formaldehyde is added to creams designed for very soft nails.

Film mask released as a liquid. It is a nutrient concentrate with a gelling agent. This liquid quickly hardens and forms a strong film, which must be removed after a few hours. Active substances and a complex of vitamins contribute to the regeneration of the nail plate, restoring its structure.

Cuticle removers contain derivatives of thioglycolic acid, capable of dissolving the keratin of the stratum corneum. To perform their function, an alkaline environment (pH 9 and above) is required, therefore, solutions of sodium and potassium hydroxides form the basis of cuticle removers. This method of cuticle removal has advantages over the traditional mechanical method, because he is bloodless. With a traditional manicure, nippers can damage the growth zone of the nail. However, the content of potent substances in preparations for removing the cuticle is also unsafe, therefore, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for their use.

Reliability of cosmetics

The reliability of cosmetic products is primarily related to their shelf life and is determined by expiration date, which can be from several months to 3 years. A longer shelf life of cosmetics should cause careful attention to its composition, and above all to the type and amount of preservative.

The shelf life of domestic cosmetics is determined by regulatory documents (Table 4). However, when using new, higher quality preservatives, the shelf life increases, therefore, in the production of cosmetics, the practice of establishing the shelf life by the manufacturer himself, which is based on the formulation of the product, has developed. The shelf life is confirmed by tests for accelerated aging. So, it is customary for French manufacturers to keep the product at 40 ° C for a week and at minus 40 ° C for the second; if the properties of cosmetics have not changed - its shelf life is more than 30 months. Moreover, in the marking in accordance with EU Directives 76/768, this period is not indicated (only a period of less than 30 months is indicated). Russian regulations require the obligatory indication of the expiration date, so now foreign companies supplying cosmetic products to our country always indicate the expiration date.

The French Association of Cosmetics Manufacturers pays great attention to the quality of products and believes that cosmetic products should be sold within 3 months. after their production. After all, the buyer can use the tool for a long time, and the tool is already open.

Expiry date of decorative cosmetics

Tab. four

Security properties beauty products are no less important than functional ones. The following factors influence the safety of cosmetics:

The quality of the original components;

Technological process of obtaining;

Packing and packaging;

Conditions of storage and sale;

consumption conditions.

At each stage of the life cycle, certain processes can occur in cosmetic products that cause changes that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, to check the safety of cosmetic products, a set of tests is carried out, almost the same as in Europe. So it is in Russia. Cosmetics made according to a new recipe are especially carefully checked. Complex of tests chemical indicators many cosmetics include the definition pH value, acid number. All these indicators determine the effect of cosmetics on human skin. Cosmetics should not contain toxic elements- lead, mercury, arsenic.

During production, packaging, use and storage, cosmetic products can be contaminated to varying degrees with microorganisms that can continue to develop in the cosmetic product, resulting in deterioration. Therefore, most cosmetics are tested for microbiological safety. To suppress the development of colonies of microorganisms, inhibitors and preservatives are introduced into the composition of cosmetic products. At the stage of production and packaging, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of sterility and asepsis. This can only be achieved by fully automating the process. It is especially important to observe the sterility of decorative cosmetics for the eyes.

Contamination by microorganisms can also occur at the stage of application of the products, when the package is repeatedly opened. This applies primarily to funds packaged in jars with a wide mouth, because. a large surface of the product interacts with the environment and human hands. The best packaging are tubes, bottles with a small opening and a dosing device. If the product has already begun to be used, then it is better to use it as soon as possible, therefore, it is better to buy cosmetic products in small packages. It is advisable to use funds in large packaging not for personal purposes, but for professional use.

All cosmetic products are a complex, multicomponent system, which includes fatty, structure-forming, surfactants, dyes, special additives (antimicrobial, photoprotective, etc.), biologically active substances (vitamins), etc. therefore, a thorough assessment is necessary. toxicological properties in order to ensure the release of high-quality products that are harmless to the consumer. The program of toxicological studies includes the study of both the ingredients of cosmetics and the finished product, taking into account its purpose and conditions of use. Toxicology studies the effects of chemicals on the body of animals, establishes safe levels of exposure, allows you to regulate the content of ingredients in the formulations of finished products

When conducting toxicological studies, the following are determined:

1. Acute toxicity (in cosmetics allowed for use not lower than hazard class 4, sometimes 3);

2. Chronic toxicity (long-term use)

3. Skin-resorptive action;

4. Irritant action;

5. Sensitizing (allergenic) action.

Due to the high biological activity of cosmetic products, the possibility of their penetration into the human body through the skin barrier and mucous membrane, as well as the subsequent effect on individual organs and systems, cosmetic products must be subjected to clinical trials in order to establish their harmlessness to humans. This is all the more important because in everyday life cosmetics are used constantly and for a long time.

When studying the safety of cosmetic products, it should be taken into account that there is a real possibility of some of them getting into the respiratory tract (powder), on the mucous membrane of the eyes (mascara), and on the mucous membrane of the lips (lipsticks).

Clinical trials on volunteers - probants are carried out only with positive results of chemical, microbiological and toxicological tests. The safety assessment is based on the effect of the product on the skin and on the general condition of the person. The question of the safety of a cosmetic product for widespread use is decided only after the positive results of all studies.

Characteristics of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics

The nomenclature of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics products is determined not only by their purpose, but also by their composition. Requirements for the quality of lipsticks, gloss, lip balms, eye shadows, blush and pencils for lips, eyelids, eyebrows, made on a fat basis, are determined by GOST 28767 - 90.

The most important components of such products are wax (bees, carnauba), which gives plasticity, durability, the ability not to spread, and oils (castor, cocoa butter, etc.), which act as softening components and solvents for dyes. As useful additives, vitamins E, A, ceramides, extracts, sunscreens are introduced into the composition.

The main physical and chemical indicators of such goods are dropping point, and for lipsticks - acidic and carbonyl numbers (Table 5). The dropping point of decorative products should be optimal. At a low dropping point, cosmetics “drips” from the face, lips, eyelids, and at a high drop point, it is poorly applied to the skin, it hardly covers it. The quality of the used fatty ingredients of animal and vegetable origin is characterized by carbonyl and acid numbers. Spoiled fatty components give the lipstick a bitter taste, lumpiness, rancid smell.

Tab. 5

Physico-chemical parameters of decorative products based on fat

The indicators determined by practical tests include: abrasion resistance, coloring ability, as well as ease of use .

The aesthetic properties of decorative cosmetics are determined color, brilliance, conformity to fashion, as well as originality and unity (harmony) of the means with a specific situation. For example, bright red lipstick is alien to sports style - for him it is unreasonably dramatic. At an important representative meeting, a dark lip color is unlikely to be appropriate. Because it draws a lot of attention to them. It has long been considered the law to combine the color of lipstick and nail polish or their combination with the color of clothes and the harmony between the makeup of the lips and eyes. Makeup artists believe that harmony is achieved by emphasizing one thing - either eyes or lips. The right choice of lipstick color is also an opportunity to optically improve the color of your teeth. So, light colors with a pearly sheen will only emphasize the yellowness of the teeth.

Requirements for product quality indicators decorative powdered and compact(powders, shadows, blush) are determined according to GOST 28768-90 (Table 6).

The main requirement for the quality of powder products is degree of pigment grinding, which is controlled by the residue on the sieve after sieving.

Tab. 6

Physical and chemical indicators of decorative powder products

Compact products must pass tests according to degree of compactness- should not crack when dropped. To do this, the saucer with the product is dropped 3 times from a height of 20 cm onto a hard surface covered with linoleum.

Through practical tests, which are crucial for evaluating the quality of eye shadows, they are tested dry and wet abrasion resistance, covering power and ease of use. As shown by the studies of the German Institute for Consumer Information "Stiftung Warentest", shadows hold well on the eyelids for about 4 hours. After that, the makeup, regardless of the assurances of the manufacturer, begins to crumble. The base cream helps to maintain the stability of eye makeup for a longer time.

The ease of use of shadows is determined by the shape and size of the applicator, the ease of applying shadows to the eyelids, as well as the ease of their removal from the eyelids.

The main physical and chemical indicators of the quality of mascara are coloring power, water resistance, pH value 1% aqueous solution of ink. Practical tests of mascara are carried out according to the same indicators as shadows: coloring ability, abrasion resistance in dry and wet conditions.

Since mascara and shadows are used in close proximity to the eyes, they must be microbiologically flawless, they must not contain microorganisms that can cause conjunctivitis. Therefore, it is necessary that the preservatives added to these products can highly effectively prevent the growth of microorganisms and at the same time be safe - do not cause inflammation of the mucous membrane of the eyes.

The main properties of nail polish are determined by the characteristics of the film former, most often it is nitrocellulose mixed with synthetic resins for better adhesion to the nail. A plasticizer (such as castor oil) gives the varnish film flexibility and elasticity. Inorganic pigments (iron oxide, ultramarine) and a number of organic dyes are used as dyes. They should be resistant to light and non-toxic. Solvent - the volatile part of the varnish, usually a mixture of several organic solvents. The most commonly used are butyl and amyl acetates. The dye usually dissolves in the varnish, the covering power of which is determined by insoluble, as a rule, white pigment particles, which eventually settle to the bottom of the varnish bottle. Mother-of-pearl shine is obtained by adding natural mother-of-pearl or synthetic pigment with a pearly tint to the varnish.

Physico-chemical indicators of the quality of nail polishes are viscosity, adhesion and drying time. Viscosity determines its ability to apply evenly and thickly enough on the nail. And do not drain into the nail bed, i.e. should be optimal. Adhesion, the norm of which is more than 3 points (TU 217 RF 85 - 89), causes the duration of the preservation of the manicure, its resistance to water, cleaning and detergents. It is believed that a good nail polish should last at least a week if manicured properly. Per drying time the varnish is evenly distributed over the surface, without forming stripes, which is possible with quick drying. It is known that the sooner the varnish dries, the less time it remains on the nails.

Professional testing of nail polishes includes evaluation of indicators such as color fastness, resistance to household chemicals, coating strength, gloss change and cracking in a few days. Ease of use is determined by the optimal consistency, shape and size of the brush, ease of removal of varnish.

Thus, the quality of cosmetic products is evaluated by organoleptic, physico-chemical methods and through practical tests. The nomenclature of quality indicators is established taking into account the name of the product, its composition, purpose, features of use, as well as the requirements of consumers, their preferences.

Factors affecting the preservation of the quality of cosmetic products

The most important factors affecting the preservation of the quality of beauty products are packaging and storage.

Package.

The main purpose of packaging is to protect products from adverse external influences and reduce quantitative and qualitative losses of goods. Possible losses of cosmetic products due to poor packaging and violation of storage rules are presented in Table. 7.

Table 7

Loss characteristics of cosmetic products during storage

Quantitative losses and, as a result, changes in the composition often lead to a loss in the quality of goods. So, as a result of the evaporation of volatile substances, the viscosity increases, the consistency changes. The reduction of both qualitative and quantitative losses depends on the quality of the packaging. For cosmetic products, almost all types of packaging from a wide variety of materials are used:

o Metal - tubes;

o Glass - bottles, jars;

o Polymer - bags, bottles, tubes, jars;

o Cardboard and paper, etc.

The main requirements for the packaging of cosmetic products are as follows:

Lack of interaction of the packaging material with the contents;

No migration of packaging components into the content;

Creation of tightness during storage, transportation and use;

Environmental friendliness;

Profitability.

Requirements for packaging, transportation and storage are established depending on their type, consistency and other features in the regulatory documents.

Fat-based decorative cosmetics can be packaged in polymer, metal or porcelain jars. They must be filled to the brim without voids in accordance with the specified weight and must be closed with lids. All types of polymer containers must be made from materials that do not interact with cosmetic products and are approved for use in contact with food. Packaging should ensure the preservation of the properties of cosmetic products within the established expiration dates and be convenient to use.

Fat-based decorative cosmetics are also packaged in metal or plastic cases. Cases must be tightly closed with lids. The pencil should not fall out of the pencil case. The pencil case slider must move freely; when it moves back, the pencil must not be cut off by the edges of the pencil case body.

Bottles, tubes and jars with cosmetics can be packed in cardboard boxes, cases, artistically designed.

A compact mass of decorative cosmetics is packed in metal or plastic saucers, which are inserted into powder boxes or boxes. Spontaneous loss of the saucer from the powder box when turning over is not allowed. The top of the box with powdered powder should be covered with a cellophane film. For a plastic box, you can use a plastic insert. Compact powder should be placed in powder boxes with a powder application insert. A paper or polymer spacer is placed between the liner and the powder. Powder boxes are sometimes packaged in artistically designed cases with or without refills.

It should be noted that the expert assessment of the quality of cosmetic products almost always includes an assessment of the packaging according to the following indicators:

· Appropriateness of the packaging used;

· Environmental friendliness;

Residual funds.

Sometimes the packaging is misleading regarding the amount of the prepackaged product (bottom and walls too thick, double bottom, large hollow spaces). Additional packaging elements (boxes, decorative caps, etc.) are often used to increase the attractiveness of the product. But we must not forget that price reduction due to cheap packaging is no less attractive for the consumer. Wasteful packaging leads to increased waste and environmental burden.

A number of experts note that sometimes the packaging is such that the product cannot be fully used by the consumer. For example, in a bottle of mascara, up to 30% of the contents may remain unused. For the consumer, such packaging is a hidden increase in the price of the product.

Marking.

Labeling of non-food products is standardized by GOST R 51121-97. However, it does not cover the labeling of cosmetic products. Currently, the State Standard of the Russian Federation has developed GOST R 51391-99 “Perfume and cosmetic products. Information for consumers. General requirements". A mandatory requirement for labeling goods is the presence of the following information:

1. Name and purpose of the product

2. Name, location, (legal address) of the manufacturer or location (address) of the organization authorized by the manufacturer to accept claims.

3. Trademark of the manufacturer (if any).

4. Net weight, volume or quantity.

5. Composition of the product.

6. Storage conditions.

7. Expiration date, date of manufacture.

8. Designation of a regulatory or technical document (for domestically produced goods).

9. information about mandatory certification.

10. information on effective use and warnings.

This information is required.

The name must specifically and reliably characterize the product so that it can be distinguished from others. It is not allowed to indicate in the names of cosmetic products that they are products of the type of other well-known products (for example, L'Oreal type foundation, Arcancil type blush). The manufacturer is responsible for the use in the name of a cosmetic product of such terms as, for example, “moisturizing”, “sunscreen”, “water-resistant”, “long-lasting”, etc. The name of the product can be supplemented with a company name, brand (sign).

The name of the manufacturer and his address are indicated in Russian, but can also be written in Latin letters (foreign manufacturer). If a product manufactured at one enterprise undergoes technological processing at another, as a result of which it turns into a finished product, or is packaged, then the second enterprise is indicated in the information as a manufacturer.

The list of ingredients should be preceded by the heading "Composition", followed by a list of ingredients in decreasing order of their mass fraction in the product recipe. The list of ingredients may be specified in accordance with the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) in English. The content of ingredients for which there are quantitative restrictions in accordance with the established procedure is indicated as a percentage.

The storage conditions of products are indicated only if they must be special (low temperature, certain humidity, etc.).

The expiration date is calculated from the date of manufacture. It can be specified as follows: “Best (Use) until (month, year)” or “Shelf life ... (months, years)” with the obligatory indication of the date of manufacture (month, year) in the latter case. The expiration date for a specific product name is set by the manufacturer.

Information on effective and safe use should be mandatory for products whose correct use without this information is difficult. Warnings must be indicated in the labeling if the use of the product without taking them into account can harm the health of the consumer, his property, or lead to damage to the product.

In the marking of some separately sold aids used in the application of cosmetic products (pencils for eyes, lips, eyebrows), specific information is indicated: for pencils - hardness, for shadows - density.

Information for consumers can be located in one or more places, convenient for reading, on each unit of consumer packaging, on packaging, label, tag, postcard, leaflet.

Storage and transportation.

These are important steps that ensure the stability of the original properties and characteristics of the product or their minimal change, subject to appropriate storage conditions (Table 8).

Tab. eight

Storage conditions for cosmetic products

The general storage conditions for most cosmetic products require a temperature of 0 to 25 ° C, placement in the manufacturer's packaging in well-ventilated hidden warehouses. During storage, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight and should not be located near heating appliances.

Some products require special storage conditions or the creation of a certain humidity.

During storage, boxes with cosmetic products are stacked in stacks no more than 2 m high, packs and boxes - no more than 1.5 m high on pallets and no more than 2 m high on pallets. Between the rows there should be passages for air circulation. Fluctuations in relative humidity are not grounds for rejection. Sanitary and hygienic requirements for the storage of cosmetic products are similar to those for other products. They include sanitary and hygienic processing of storage facilities, the purpose of which is cleanliness and the absence of microbiological and biological contamination.

Cosmetic products are transported by all means of transport in covered vehicles and universal containers in accordance with the rules of transportation.

Market formation. Market tasks. The role of the market in stimulating production

A market economy is a complex mechanism for coordinating people, different activities and industries through a system of prices and markets; it is a means of communication for bringing together the knowledge and actions of billions of individuals. Without any centralized information or special calculations, the market solves the problems of producing and distributing billions of unknown variables and dependencies - problems that are far from being solved even by today's fastest supercomputers. No one created the market, and yet it works wonderfully. In a market economy, no individual or organization is responsible for production, consumption, distribution, and prices.

An important characteristic of the market is that it brings together buyers and sellers to set prices and quantities of goods and services. The market is the mechanism by which buyers and sellers interact to set prices and quantities of goods and services. Prices show the conditions under which people and firms voluntarily exchange various goods.

In addition, prices serve as a signal for buyers and sellers. If the consumer wants more of a good, the price will rise, signaling to the producer that more supplies are needed. For example, in summer and winter, the demand for waterproof cosmetics increases, and in spring and autumn - for blush, powder, etc.

Prices coordinate the decisions of producers and consumers in the market. Higher prices reduce consumer purchases and stimulate production. Low prices stimulate consumption and curb production.

The Russian perfumery and cosmetics market has already become one of the largest in Europe: according to the Russian Perfume and Cosmetic Association (RPKA), the volume of the perfumery and cosmetics market in 2004 amounted to $5.06-5.985 billion. In terms of market volume, Russia was in sixth place in Europe - after Germany, France, Britain, Italy and Spain. But the domestic cosmetics market continues to develop dynamically.

According to the research agency Symbol-Marketing, many Russian firms have increased production this year by 30-60%. Perfume and cosmetic retail is developing more actively than the entire market. Here retail chains are growing by 40-50% per year, yielding only to the food sector (80-100%). For comparison: in European countries, the growth rate of the cosmetics market is at best 2-3% per year. As for the most dynamic segments, this year they were depilation products (15.5%), as well as deodorants and perfumes (12%).

According to the Euromonitor agency, at present the volume of the Russian selective sector of perfumery and cosmetics is about 650 million dollars, which is 12% of the entire perfumery and cosmetics market. According to other sources, this figure is 10-30%, but it must be taken into account that many Western research agencies usually do not take into account the "grey" market of counterfeit and counterfeit products, which is approximately equal in volume to official sales.

According to Anna Dycheva-Smirnova, - "The Russian selective market can reach 45% of the total volume of the perfumery and cosmetics market. Today, almost all the world's selective brands can be found in specialized perfumery and cosmetic stores." According to experts, the number of people who have sufficient income to regularly use selective cosmetics and perfumes is 4-5% in Moscow, and no more than 1-2% of the population in regional cities. This means that in Russia as a whole, this group includes about 3.2 million people. Where do these numbers come from? The total population is 145 million, of which 10 million are residents of the capital, 135 million are residents of the regions; 5% of 10 million is equal to 500 thousand, 2% of 135 million is 2.7 million.

With an average spending of this category of consumers on selective perfumes, skin care products and decorative cosmetics in the amount of $300 per year, they can provide a segment volume equal to about $1 billion. And according to RPKA forecasts, the growth of the market in Russia over the next 5 years will be more than 20% annually. RPKA experts believe that the domestic cosmetics market is growing at an incredibly fast pace, while most European ones are in a state of stagnation: their growth does not exceed 3% per year. But, despite this, in terms of cosmetics consumption per capita, Russia still lags behind Western Europe.

Today, a Russian on average spends about $36 per year on cosmetics (According to experts, the number of people with sufficient income to regularly use selective cosmetics and perfumes is 4-5% in Moscow, and no more than 1-2% of the population in regional cities) .

According to the Euromonitor agency, the average resident of the countries of the so-called second tier of Europe - Spain, Portugal, Greece - spends about $ 100 a year on the purchase of cosmetic products. In richer countries, the cost of buying perfumes and cosmetics is even higher: in Switzerland it is about $180 per person per year, in England - $150, in France - $200.

It can be predicted that the level of consumption in Russia will approach European levels, and in the next seven years, Russians will buy more and more creams, decorative cosmetics and personal care products. During this time, the cost of perfumes and cosmetics will approach $100 per person per year. The rapid growth of the market will stop only after its volume exceeds $15 billion. By that time, self-care with cosmetics will become a cultural norm for most Russians.

Domestic manufacturers of cosmetics own almost half of the entire cosmetics market, and in some niches, for example, in the niche of skin care and hygiene products, their share exceeds 70%. Approximately 53-60% is accounted for by the sale of imported and domestic products produced under international brands. 80% of the raw materials from which Russian cosmetics are made are supplied from abroad. Also, most domestic manufacturers use imported packaging.

Now there are about 250 domestic manufacturers of cosmetics on the Russian market.

Now the leading position in the Russian market of decorative cosmetics is occupied mainly by foreign manufacturers. So in 2004, foreign brands such as Oriflame, Avon, Bourjois, Lumene, Maybelline, Max Factor, Nivea, Revlon and others accounted for about 80% of sales of decorative cosmetics in Russia, while at the same time Russian companies producing decorative cosmetics account for only about 10%.

With the advent of Western companies in our country, 65% of perfumery and cosmetic retail began to belong to six leading networks. These are L'Etoile-Sephora, Arbat Prestige-Marionnoud, Rive Goche, Ile de Beute, Brocard, Douglas Rivoli chains. The remaining 35% of Russian perfumery and cosmetics retail is occupied by non-network players, such as Articoli. (At the same time, in terms of consumption, the Russian Faberlic is inferior not only to Avon and Oriflame, but also to Ruby Rose, Lumene, Kiki and Max Factor).

Decorative cosmetics is the most difficult segment of the perfumery and cosmetics market to promote, because customer loyalty to a particular brand is quite low. Thus, only 5% of Russian consumers prefer to use one brand, while the rest buy products from at least five different brands. In addition, it is decorative cosmetics that most often fall into the category of so-called impulsive purchases, when a decision is made under the influence of promotional, POS-materials or the recommendation of a consultant at the point of sale.

According to market participants, the Russian buyer is still not familiar with such stores that would fully meet his expectations. Cosmetics stores open in Russia every three to four months, and despite their large number, there are still unused and unclaimed formats.

Recruitment and training of personnel, use of space, interior, ways of organizing goods, assortment formation policy, as well as sales promotion at the point of sale - all this becomes factors in effective management specific to the Russian market of perfumery and cosmetics.

In order to compete with foreign companies, Russian market participants need to establish high-quality production, as well as master advanced marketing technologies and learn how to clearly position themselves in the market, master the features of contract manufacturing, ways to develop market niches, the effectiveness of innovation, learn how to use the specifics of the Russian raw materials market.

Despite the rather aggressive intervention by foreigners, domestic experts are optimistic about the prospects for Russian production, and are confident that the future of the market lies with private labels in the middle price segment of the mass market segment. Correct positioning and strategic creation of the image of domestic production can provide Russian companies with a significant market share.

Examination, quality control and certification of cosmetic products

This is a procedure for establishing the conformity of a particular product with a sample and description, i.e. the information declared about it and the basic requirements for this type of product.

Compliance of the goods with the declared information in accordance with the Civil Code of the Russian Federation and the Law of the Russian Federation "On the Protection of Consumer Rights" is a mandatory requirement for the manufacturer and seller of the goods. Identification is the procedure that confirms this conformity.

Identification of cosmetic products is carried out for the purpose of certification, detection of counterfeit products in the course of procurement, quality control and assessment, in the examination of low-quality products, and in a number of other cases.

Since the conformity of the goods with the declared information is a mandatory requirement, the identification procedure is a very important stage in the overall assessment of the goods and is carried out according to all the declared characteristics, including the name, and, as a rule, in three stages (Table 9).

The sequence of product identification

Tab. 9

	Sequence of operations
1. preliminary identification	1. Study and analysis of documents, markings. 2. Initial general inspection: packaging; Individual packaging; Content; the product itself. 3. Identification of appropriate and inappropriate characteristics. 4. Use in characterization of organoleptic and express methods. 5. Determination of indicators for testing by physicochemical and other methods
2. Final identification	1. Analysis of test data 2. Final full analysis
3. Drawing up a conclusion	Conclusion on compliance (non-compliance)

Consider the sequence and methodology for conducting preliminary identification. It starts with an inspection of the product packaging. Often this is enough to determine that the product was not manufactured by the manufacturer indicated on the label. The use of thin, deformed, low-quality cardboard for packaging, fuzzy printing design, poor fixing of the box with the contents are signs of poor product quality or a sign of product falsification.

Next, they inspect the container in which the cosmetic product is packaged. Vials and jars should not have defects; their surface may be shiny or matte, but the lid should close well.

In aerosol containers, with the valve closed, there should be no leakage of the contents; valve must be operational. Deformation of the aerosol package is not allowed.

Next, they study the marking on the bottle box, tube, etc., its compliance with the information on the carton and the data of the accompanying documents, if any. These data are compared by an analytical method and the product is identified according to the main marking data: manufacturer, date of manufacture, product name, etc.

Identification is divided into:

Identification of the manufacturer;

Identification by release date or period until which the product can be used;

Identification for compliance with ND;

Identification for compliance with the name and main functional properties.

Quality control of cosmetic products:

Acceptance of goods from the manufacturer (supplier) involves, as a rule, quality control by the trading organization in accordance with the contract or special delivery conditions. It is carried out both in wholesale and retail organizations in preparation for sale.

Quality control is carried out selectively, as a rule, up to 3% of the batch is selected. In case of negative results, a second test is carried out on a doubled amount. In case of disagreement during quality control, the recipient, in the presence of an expert, selects 6-12 units of a cosmetic product. This quantity is divided into 3 equal parts, which are sealed and a label is attached to them with full information about the product. The recipient keeps one sample with a seal, sends the second to the manufacturer, and the third - for an independent examination to confirm the non-compliance of the goods with the requirements of regulatory documents and establish the causes of their occurrence.

All defects in the appearance of cosmetic products are divided into shortcomings of the product itself, packaging, packaging and labeling. The list of defects in cosmetic products is determined by their type and consistency. Packaging defects are most often the result of underfilling or inconsistency in mass with labeling data. It should be noted that not all defects visible and detected during quality control are normalized by standards.

Certification of cosmetic products:

A civilized market is inconceivable without certification of products, works and services. Translated from Latin, "certificate" means "done right." In the modern sense certification is a validation procedure.

One of the goals of certification is to confirm the safety of products for the life and health of the population. Mandatory certification of perfumery and cosmetic products was introduced in 1994. Now almost all cosmetic products are included in the list of the Nomenclature of products and services, in respect of which the legislative acts of the Russian Federation provide for their mandatory certification, which was put into effect on October 1, 1998 by a resolution of the State Standard of the Russian Federation dated February 23 1998 No. 5.

Cosmetic products are potentially hazardous to public health, because is a multicomponent composition of natural, chemical, biologically active and other substances and is intended for application to various external parts of the human body.

Certification is carried out by certification bodies accredited by the State Standard of Russia in accordance with the established procedure and having a license for the specified activity.

Experts of the certification body must be certified by the State Standard of the Russian Federation. The main requirement for experts is competence, experience in the field of quality and safety assessment of cosmetic products, as well as experience in the field of certification.

Certification rules establish a certain sequence of tests. First - chemical and microbiological tests.

Particular attention is paid to testing in practical conditions. To do this, for example, lipsticks are studied by their effect on the mucous membrane of the lips.

To predict the possible danger of drugs for humans during their long-term use, the effect of the drug on the body of animals is studied for 3–10 weeks.

An important indicator that characterizes the possibility of penetration of cosmetic products through intact skin, followed by an assessment of the general toxic effect, is the definition skin-resorptive action. These studies are carried out on white mice and rats by immersing the tail in the test preparation and studying the subsequent reaction, which reflects the general toxic effect. If the substance is absorbed through intact skin and has a negative effect on the body, then it has a skin-resorptive effect, which is not allowed for cosmetics.

Be sure to study irritant and allergic effects all cosmetics.

All these methods of research on animals are very long, and most importantly inhumane. Therefore, in the future it is planned to ban the testing of cosmetics on animals. A search is currently underway for an alternative scientifically based method that should provide an equally high level of product safety assessment.

Conclusion

Every year, even every month, there are more and more cosmetic novelties. The formulation is improving, the quality of decorative cosmetics is improving, which brings variety to our lives. Cosmetics give us pleasure and bring satisfaction in themselves.

In conclusion, I would like to say that, having considered the topic of decorative cosmetics, I realized even more how important it is in our life. Makeup is a great art that every woman should master.

References

1. S.A. Vilkov "Commodity research and examination of perfumery and cosmetic products".

2. S.A. Vilkova, O.Yu. Svekolnikov "Assessment of the quality and competitiveness of cosmetic products."

3. H. Villamo "Cosmetic Chemistry".

4. G.N. Kasparov "Fundamentals of the production of perfumery and cosmetics"

7. Philip Kotler "Fundamentals of Marketing". Moscow "Business book" 1995.

Decorative cosmetics, as the art of beautifying oneself, has been known since ancient Egypt: tweezers for hair removal, tattoo kits have been found in excavations. Unfortunately, lead sulfide rouge, powders based on white lead (lead oxide) were poisonous and caused hair loss and poisoning in the Middle Ages. It was not until the 19th century that lead oxide was replaced by zinc oxide. The composition of lipsticks included a safe natural colored wax - cochineal. Currently, the composition of decorative cosmetics has improved significantly, much attention is paid to their safety.

Decorative cosmetics by main types of raw materials, used for their manufacture, are divided into fat-based, powdered and compact products.

Chapter 12

Fat-based cosmetics are lipsticks, lip gloss and balms, blush, eye shadow, eye, lip, eyebrow and other products. They are made from a mixture of synthetic and natural products: fats, waxes, oils, biologically active substances with the addition of dyes and pigments.

Powdered and compact decorative cosmetics - powder, dry blush, compact eye shadow are finely ground powdery flavored mixtures of mineral and organic substances.

Fat-based decorative cosmetics represented mainly by lipsticks, blush, foundation creams.

Depending on the purpose, lipsticks are hygienic (colorless or slightly colored), protective (for example, from exposure to UV rays) and tonal - for coloring lips.

Hygienic lipsticks contain moisturizing and wound-healing preparations - vinylin, propolis, azulene (gives a greenish tint to lipstick), bisabolol, vitamins E, K, avocado oil. Hygienic lipsticks can be used by both men and women, there are also special hygienic lipsticks for children with a berry flavor.

By consistency, lipsticks are solid (rod, pencil) and creamy, packaged in jars, tubes, bottles with a brush. According to the degree of fat content of a smear of hard lipstick, they are divided into fatty, bold and dry. The fat content of lipstick is related to its formulation and the melting point of the waxes that make up the composition. Waxes are esters of higher fatty acids and monohydric higher alcohols. Cerotinic acid, a component of many waxes, contains a mixture of acids with 24 to 28 carbon atoms, alcohols contain 34-40 carbon atoms in the chain. Natural waxes are found on the surface of many fruits and plants: candell wax (cacti of Mexico), carnauba wax (palm leaves Soregpta sep/ega). Bleached beeswax is considered the most common in the production of lipsticks. Dropping point (close to melting point) lips

for lipsticks should be 55-80 ° C, this ensures the strength of the lipstick rod and the quality of the smear (GOST 28767-90 "Fat-based decorative cosmetics. General specifications").

Foundation lipstick presented in a large assortment; it is produced in a wide range of tones and shades - from light pink, light carrot to dark red, purple, brown; matte, satin, transparent, with pearl effect. In the modern color scheme there are lipsticks of metallic shades, as well as colors unusual for lips (youth assortment). Tonal lipstick contains in its composition mineral pigments (of natural origin) and organic, which provide the coverage of lipstick, and organic dyes. Dyes are allowed to be introduced into the composition of lipsticks no more than 3-3.5%, while the total content of dyes and pigments in lipstick is 20%.

By color fastness, tonal lipstick is divided into three types - simple, traditional (keeps on the lips for 3-4 hours); stable (5-6 hours) and ultra-resistant (super-resistant), retaining its color on the lips for more than 6-7 hours and leaving a minimal imprint. The color fastness of modern super-resistant lipsticks is achieved by introducing oligomeric organosilicon compounds that encapsulate pigments and dyes, create a special structure with waxes and protect lips from direct contact with dyes.

When evaluating the quality of lipsticks by organoleptic indicators, the following is determined: appearance - the surface of the rod must be even, smooth, uniformly and evenly colored, without bubbles and cracks; smell - pleasant; smear - even, homogeneous, without grains.

Blush in their composition they are close to lipsticks, however, in their composition the amount of pigments is reduced, they are transparent, easily fit on the skin.

Foundation creams based on emulsion creams, in which pigments are additionally introduced according to the shade of skin colors.

Chapter 12

Perfumes and cosmetics

Lipsticks are packaged into metal, plastic or combined cases, while the lipstick must be firmly held inside the case, the engine must move freely, during the reverse movement it should not cut off the edge of the lipstick. Lipsticks are produced in cases (folding thin cardboard) and without them, as well as in sets with other cosmetic products. The lipstick label (at the bottom of the case) indicates the number and name of the tone, trademark or name of the manufacturer, the date of manufacture is indicated on the case. Lipstick cases are combined into a group package of no more than 50 pieces in folding boxes made of boxboard or thick paper and sealed with a parcel post. A group package of 40 pieces is placed in corrugated cardboard boxes and sealed with one or two parcels.

Lipsticks are stored in dry, ventilated rooms with a relative humidity of no more than 70% at a temperature of 0 to 25 °C. Guaranteed shelf life of domestic lipstick - 18 months, imported - up to three years.

Decorative cosmetics powder and compact represented mainly by powders, blush and eye shadow.

Powder - it is a flavored finely ground mixture of amorphous talc, zinc oxide, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, starch, rice or maize flour (in various ratios) and natural mineral pigments. The powder should absorb the secretions of the skin, eliminate its shine, be easy to apply to the skin and have good hiding power to mask skin imperfections.

According to the state of aggregation, loose powder, compact, liquid, cream powder are produced. By skin type, powder is distinguished for normal, oily and dry skin. By tone, the powder is white, pink, pink-yellow (raschel), light and dark, peach, shades of tan (the tone of the powder can be indicated by a number).

loose powder According to the degree of grinding of the components, it is divided into groups "extra" (especially fine grinding) and the first group.

Powdered powder is packaged in cardboard, plastic or combined jars; the top of the box must have a membrane (paper, foil, polymer film) to prevent the powder from spilling during transportation.

Compact products differ from loose in the content of volatile components - up to 7%, the mass fraction of zinc stearate should be no more than 11%. Compact products are smaller in volume, have a higher density.

Compact powder differs from loose in that it has the ability to be applied in a light layer on the skin, but not crumble. Cellulose ethers, starch, dextrin, less often tragacanth (dried crushed juice of plants from the genus Astragalus) are used as binders. The correct proportion of powder substances and binder ensures the degree of compactness of the powder - dense, but not hard, as well as the ability not to "salt" on the surface. This also applies to other compact products - blush, eye shadow, etc.

Shadows and blush compact differ from powder in the tone and color of pigments and dyes, among which cold tones predominate - green and blue, purple, lilac, etc.

The quality of compactness of powder, blush, eye shadow is checked by hitting a saucer (palette) with a compact product on a hard surface covered with a layer of linoleum, dropping it three times from a height of 20 cm, while the products and containers should not crack. Compact powder and other products are packaged in metal or plastic saucers, which are inserted into powder boxes and supplemented with a soft (porous) insert (for shadows - an applicator) for applying the product. A polymer film membrane is placed between the powder layer and the liner.

Powdered and compact decorative cosmetics should be stored in dry warehouses at a temperature not lower than 0 °C and not higher than 25 °C at a relative air humidity of not more than 70%. Warranty period of storage of products - 18 months. from the moment of manufacture.

Chapter 12

Perfumes and cosmetics

Modern trends are such that today the clear line between facial cosmetics and decorative cosmetics is blurred, since almost all decorative cosmetics contain ingredients that are the basis of cosmetic preparations as components that provide care, nutrition, hydration and protection of our skin. . In the formulation of makeup products, you can see hyaluronic acid, sunscreens, silicones, and vitamins. All this speaks of the high quality of modern cosmetic products designed to decorate our face.

If we turn to history, then even before the famous recipes of Cleopatra, people actively used the gifts of nature as a means of improving their appearance and attracting the attention of the opposite sex. But not everyone knows that the first wearers of makeup were men, not women. At first, these were hunters who used dyes for camouflage during protection or attacks on animals, then only specially trained shamans, who were the first makeup artists, since only they were given the right to decorate the bride for marriage rituals. Later, decorative cosmetics became popular as camouflage in warfare (which is still true today). And only then women began to use iris juice as a blush, lead white as a bleaching powder, green and black kohol for eyeliner, as well as cosmetic preparations of their own production, made from dairy products, herbal infusions, powdered ground nuts and shells, vegetable oils. , clay, etc.

Of course, technological progress, the powerful development of the chemical, medical, perfumery and cosmetic industries have made such a huge step forward that today there is practically nothing in common with what people of past centuries had. But there remains an inexorable desire of all women to always look young, beautiful, desirable and attractive, regardless of age, time and location. And in this they receive great help and support from unique decorative cosmetics, the range of which is growing every day.

Today there is no shortage of funds, today there is a problem of choice: what you need to have, how to use it correctly, how to apply it.

If a couple of decades ago in our country, women stood in lines for hours and bought any cosmetics, if only they got it: it didn’t matter whether it was suitable or not, today no one will be surprised by the abundance of goods on the shelves of cosmetic departments and stores. And if then it was enough to apply blue shadows beloved by all women and line the eyes with burning “arrows”, and there was one make-up for all occasions, then today's fashionistas manage to do two or three make-ups a day, focusing on the style of clothing, the place and time of the meeting, and makeup appointment.

In the modern lexicon, there is the concept of “makeup without makeup”, which means that cosmetics need to be applied in such a quantity and in such a way that the face has natural beauty, and cosmetics on it will be about a hundred dollars. In this, of course, there is some joke, but high-end cosmetics are really expensive, and the result, as they say, is “obvious”.

In modern make-up, every detail of the face must be drawn, which requires a large assortment of deco-aeative cosmetics. Makeup products include foundation; masking agents; powder; blush; eyeshadow; pencils and eyeliners; mascara; lipsticks; lip pencils.

The choice of cosmetics is made individually in accordance with

skin type, taste inclinations, clothing style and makeup purpose. So, daytime makeup should be less saturated colors, muted and matte. In contrast, evening or formal makeup will be more active, bright and allow for various additional decorations: false eyelashes, glitter, rhinestones, etc. But in general, it is necessary to proceed from the individual characteristics of a person, taking into account all the nuances and details of his appearance.

Foundation

Primer, makeup base, tone, base - all these concepts refer to the same cosmetic product - foundation. Today, the role of tinting agents cannot be underestimated. Well and properly selected and applied primer gives the impression of flawless, smooth, even, evenly colored, healthy skin.

The new generation of tonal products differ from the tonal foundations of previous years: they have a delicate, light texture, are invisible on the face, are easy to apply, do not clog pores, and do not give a sticky feeling. This is an indispensable base for make-up (make-up lasts much longer and lies more evenly). The bases perfectly prime the unevenness of the skin on the face, create a beautiful background for the overall color scheme of the make-up. Thus, tonal means create an impeccable base for make-up; mask skin imperfections; correct the oval of the face; are a transitional stage from facial skin care to the application of decorative cosmetics.

They moisturize and nourish the skin of the face, as they contain ingredients that meet the requirements for facial skin care; protect the skin from the harmful effects of the external environment, as well as UV radiation.

The tonal base is a multifunctional tool, the use of which does not impede the processes occurring in the skin, but, on the contrary, contributes to their flow.

By consistency, the foundations are liquid, creamy, compact, by texture - matte, satin, with shine (or mother-of-pearl), and by purpose they are divided into day (light, transparent), evening (more dense, with a large masking effect).

effect), for photo and video filming (with a large amount of coloring pigment, good covering ability). The basics, differing in their purpose, also provide for the division by skin types.

Liquid foundation- the most common type of tonal products. It is a day foundation, liquid in consistency, light, matte in texture, with medium coverage and a small amount of coloring pigment. It is well applied and absorbed, leaving no greasy marks, but does not mask noticeable skin defects. Designed for all skin types except very dry and uneven.

Oil-free foundation(oil-free) can also be used as a daytime foundation, but contains more talc or powder and does not contain fatty substances. Ideal for combination and oily skin, as it has a mattifying effect.

Foundation mousse- an uncommon type of tonal product, since it practically does not mask or even out anything, but only emphasizes the tan or performs a protective function and is used as a makeup base. It is a tool similar to foam (mousse) for hair. It has a very light (airy) consistency, low masking ability. Suitable for all skin types except very dry, uneven and imperfections.

Thick cream base more often it looks like a compact powder or stick (thick twisting chalk in the form of lipstick). Contains a high amount of coloring particles; perfectly masks imperfections on the face. The cream is dense in consistency, quite oily and forms a very thick opaque layer on the face. Ideal for photo and video shooting, evening make-up, for dry and uneven skin, but requires careful even application and removal of excess cream with paper napkins. Otherwise, the face will look untidy, and the makeup will seem “dirty” and careless.

Cream powder(2 in 1 product) is a combination of foundation compact cream and compact powder. Apply with a damp or dry sponge directly after applying a moisturizing day cream without the use of foundation. Additionally, it is not recommended to use powder, since after drying, a dry matte coating forms on the face. A convenient option for a quick make-up or make-up adjustments during the day. Designed for all skin types except very dry.

Makeup- dense fatty mass, similar to theatrical make-up, is produced in the form of a "cake". Cake is a foundation that looks like powder and is sold with a sponge (as well as cream powder). In dry form, it acts as a powder, and in liquid form, it acts as a foundation with good coverage. It lays down a very dense layer, it is recommended for problem skin.

Concealers

Concealers are a type of cosmetic product that is a compact tinting agent with high coverage and is designed to thoroughly mask skin defects on the face, such as age spots, bruises under the eyes, acne marks, smallpox, all kinds of redness, scars and other imperfections. skin. Due to their more viscous and thicker consistency, they perfectly hide these imperfections and are indispensable helpers for creating an even skin tone.

Concealers are available in various packages: in the form of cosmetic pencils, sticks, in pencil cases (like mascara), tubes, cakes (they look like a compact cream).

concealers - concealers(from English. concealer)- come in a variety of shades and are used depending on the purpose.

Yellow concealers are applied to areas of the face where the skin has a bluish tint, and are designed to mask bruises under the eyes, dark spots in the corners of the eyes, etc., lilac to hide age spots, yellowish and brown skin tones.

Green concealers are designed for all kinds of redness on the face: burst capillary vessels, excessive blush, capillary hematoma, bruising.

Ivory concealer is a great way to hide any dark circles in the eye area, darkened eyelids, deep and fine wrinkles, acne and pimple marks.

All these products, due to their color scheme, are also called neutralizing agents, since when certain shades are applied to each other, they lose their intensity and brightness, and the defects on the face no longer look so terrible and the COP are striking.

Powder

Powder is one of the products that are very popular. . Like foundation, powder is a multifaceted product. It fixes the underlying layer of primer (base); creates a matting effect (eliminates excess shine); gives the skin a healthy look; corrects the oval and details of the face and blends (mixes) failed blush and shadow transitions.

In addition, the powder absorbs various skin secretions (fat, sweat); creates a good base for applying dry types of decorative cosmetics (eyeshadow, blush); maintains the water-lipid balance of the skin; protects it from harmful external influences (contains UV filters).

Powder is a homogeneous mixture of mineral and organic substances, it can be of vegetable and mineral origin. Vegetable powder contains starch. It does not irritate the skin and lays down well, but it has a small drawback - it quickly decomposes, unlike mineral powder. Mineral powder is made from white clay, zinc oxide and talc. High molecular weight alcohols (glycerin), lanolin and petroleum jelly are added to the powder for dry skin.

By appointment, the powder is divided into groups. Powder of the 1st and 2nd groups is intended for dry and oily skin, the "Extra" group - for normal, dry and oily skin. The difference between them lies in the content of the components in the recipes. Powder formulations for dry skin include components that increase the oiliness of the skin.

The main requirements for powder are: fine dispersion; silkiness; good coverage; distribution uniformity; long-term retention on the face; content of fat-absorbing and moisturizing ingredients.

According to the state of the particles (consistency), the powder is crumbly, compact, liquid, spherical (“meteorites”).

Loose powder more preferable than others, as it evenly falls on the face with a thin, transparent layer. This powder is used by all professional makeup artists, because it is suitable for all skin types and is easily distributed over the face. Loose powder is applied with a large round or flat brush (puff only on an individual basis).

Compact powder convenient for maintaining and correcting makeup; especially recommended for those with combination or oily skin types. In this case, the powder is applied with a sponge to the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) to eliminate oily sheen. But do not abuse the compact powder, so as not to create the effect of a "plastered" face.

Liquid powder is a suspension of ordinary powder in a water-glycerin solution with minor additions of alcohol and fat-like components (spermaceti, stearin, perfume oil, glycerol monostearate). Before use, the bottle with liquid powder should be shaken well so that the settled powder and the separated liquid form a homogeneous mass.

Powder in "meteorites"- multi-colored balls in one box. Such a powder was first produced by the Guerlain company, justifying its invention by the fact that our skin is also colored unevenly. White balls make the face open, fresh, voluminous. Yellow, on the contrary, attract color, pink - rejuvenate. Thus, the entire gamut of colors is distributed over the face with the smallest dust particles, and due to this, it seems to glow from the inside. This powder is applied with a brush.

According to the color scheme, powders are divided into light, dark and transparent (transparent). Colored powders are used to correct the oval of the face or its modeling. Light tones are applied to the protruding areas of the face: the forehead, the area under the outer corners of the eyes, the area under the bend of the eyebrow, the back of the nose, the central part of the chin. Dark shades are used on the peripheral part of the face to narrow it or make it more prominent: the area of the temples, the cheekbones, the extra roundness of the cheeks, and the double chin are affected. Translucent powder - the most versatile - is used for any kind of makeup in order to make the face matte, velvety and well-groomed.

In order for the quality of the powder to meet all modern requirements, it is necessary that it contains safe and useful substances.

Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, kaolin are introduced into the composition of the powder so that it can lie on the face in an even layer, absorb skin secretions, have sufficient covering power, and mask skin defects.

Zinc and magnesium stearates are necessary so that the powder adheres tightly to the skin, does not crumble when air moves, and stays on the face for a relatively long time. Stearates in the amount of 5 - 15% are introduced into the powder to create the effect of velvety, silkiness and fat content.

White talc is used to glide over the skin. It is introduced into the composition of the powder in an amount of 30 -50%, i.e. practically it forms the basis of the powder. To color the powder in pink, peach, yellowish, yellowish-pink colors, as well as in shades of tan, various dyes are used: inorganic (sienna, iron oxide pigments yellow, red, etc.); organic (eosin, 1VK red concrete, cosmetic paints); mineral and synthetic origin.

For the preparation of compact powder, similar raw materials are used with the addition of dextrin, molasses, starch gel and fatty additives (lanolin, alcohols, spermaceti, beeswax, pentol and stone oil) as binding agents. Also, various kinds of fragrances are introduced into the composition of the powder to give them a pleasant smell.

Blush

Blush is a type of decorative cosmetic product designed to create a face pattern. With their help, the morphology of the face is emphasized, the shape of the cheekbones, an oval is drawn. Without blush, the face would look lifeless, painful, flat and shapeless, so blush is given special attention in makeup.

Blush revitalizes and rejuvenates the face. With their help, you can correct irregular shapes and details of the face. The color scheme and shape of the blush set the overall tone and style of the entire make-up; they balance the make-up of the lips and eyes, creating a smooth transition from one part of the face to another.

Thanks to blush, you can create the image of a young girl or an extravagant woman, make your face faded and tired, or, conversely, healthy and blooming. It is important how the blush will be applied and where the color accents will be placed.

There are two types of blush: oily and dry. Fat blush can be creamy (in a tube) or compact (in a cake) consistency, dry blush can be compact, crumbly, and also have the form of “meteorites”.

According to the color scheme, blush is divided into two groups: colored (cold shades - from pale pink to caustic pink, warm shades - from peach and coral to orange-brown) and beige-brown (shades of tan).

The first group of blush is designed to draw a blush as such, and the second - to correct and model the oval of the face and emphasize its structure.

The composition of blush is similar to the composition of powder and shadows.

Content
Introduction
From the history of cosmetics
On the meaning of cosmetics
General classification and characteristics of the range of cosmetic products
Characteristics of the range of decorative cosmetics
Reliability of cosmetics
Characteristics of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics
Factors affecting the preservation of the quality of cosmetic products
Market formation. Market tasks. The role of the market in stimulating production
Sale and advertising of cosmetic products
Expertise, quality control and certification of cosmetic products
Conclusion
References

Introduction
It is a sin if a woman looks less beautiful than she could be.
In recent decades, the consumption of cosmetic products around the world, including in our country, has been increasing. A huge number of new products with new consumer properties have appeared on the Russian market, many previously unknown firms, both foreign and Russian. A wide range, a variety of cosmetic products, of course, is a positive factor, but it often makes it difficult for us to choose one or another product. Intense and not always fair advertising often misleads consumers. Unfortunately, in domestic publications, cosmetic products are often assessed not by specialists, but, as a rule, by journalists, based on their consumer experience.
The range of decorative cosmetics produced by the industry is diverse and includes the following types of products: foundation, powder, blush, lipsticks and lip glosses, eye shadows, mascara, eyeliners, eyebrow pencils, nail polishes. In terms of the number of products manufactured, decorative cosmetics occupies one of the leading places in the total production of cosmetics.
Decorative cosmetics is an integral part of the life of women's society. It helps to emphasize the beauty of a woman's face, give it individuality and hide minor imperfections. Cosmetics allow us to be closer to the external ideal and feel more confident.
Beauty and health should be taken care of daily and systematically. After all, the wise words of de Lenclos's aphorism still remain valid: "There are no ugly women. There are only women who do not know how to make themselves beautiful."
In my opinion, the topic of decorative cosmetics will always remain relevant.

From the history of cosmetics
The history of cosmetology goes back to ancient times. Already primitive people tried to keep the body clean, to embellish their appearance. This is evidenced by the finds of archaeologists who explored the settlements of the ancients, and the works of ethnographers who studied the life of the tribes that have survived to our time. Body painting, tattoos, all kinds of balms were used in everyday life, and for various rituals and religious rites.
It is generally accepted that the birthplace of modern cosmetics is the Ancient East. Already in ancient Egypt, cosmetics were used quite widely. The art of making cosmetics was owned mainly by priests. Wealthy people used expensive methods to improve their appearance (both women and men were painted), using special substances for this, while the less wealthy used simple "folk" remedies. Caring for appearance was a matter of paramount importance for the Egyptians. In addition to the eyebrow pencil, they were well aware of lipstick, nail polish, hair dye, fragrant water and other attributes of the modern woman's arsenal. The caustic juice of some types of iris was used as a rouge (irritation of the skin by this juice caused redness, which persisted for a long time). In some cases, cosmetics had a preventive value. For example, eyeliner not only by women, but also by men prevented inflammation of the eyelids from the blinding sun and dry wind.
The ideal of female beauty of ancient Egypt is the famous Nefertiti, the wife of Pharaoh Akhenaten. The natural beauty of a perfect face was nevertheless helped by cosmetics: skin care, makeup, jewelry are obvious. The drawing of the mouth, eyebrows, eyes was emphasized by makeup, the cheeks were also tinted. It is believed that she perfectly mastered the art of makeup.
From the 16th century BC e. methods of using powdered alabaster and honey as a cosmetic product, dye compositions for coloring the eyelids green, and their edges black, have come down to us. Lips and cheeks were painted with henna. The oldest lipstick was discovered during excavations of the Sumerian city of Ur (35 BC).
A special place in the history of cosmetology belongs to the cosmetics of Ancient India and Ancient China. In these countries, there was a real cult of female beauty, to maintain and improve which they used mascara, face white, and nail polish. In China, it was customary for children to paint their cheeks with red paint in the form of an apple, so that the Almighty, looking at the children, would be pleased, seeing that they were joyful and healthy. And here is what the Chinese sages said about the beauty of a woman: "It is better to admire a beauty in the morning toilet after she powders her face." And one more thing: "A wise woman can change every day, never exhausting her wonderful transformations..."
To blacken the eyes and eyebrows, Greek women used soot, adding juice of astringent herbs or soot to it, and fixed it with a mixture of egg white and light resin. Lips and cheeks were blushed with red lead, or finely ground powders and compounds that cause a rush of blood to the cheeks.
In ancient Russia, women were painted with might and main. Yes, so that they seemed just painted with a brush. For cosmetic purposes, as in all other countries, mainly herbal remedies were used, the properties of which the pagans knew perfectly well. For example, for blush and lipstick, they used raspberry juice, cherries, rubbed their cheeks with beets. To give the skin whiteness, wheat flour or chalk was taken. Plants were also used to dye hair, for example, onion peel dyed hair brown, saffron with chamomile - white-yellow. Scarlet paint was obtained from barberry, raspberry - from young leaves of an apple tree, green - from onion feathers, nettle leaves, yellow - from saffron leaves, sorrel and alder bark, etc.
The first "Encyclopedia of Beauty" was published in Paris in 1806, it contained advice on how to make the skin more beautiful.
Late 19th - early 20th centuries characterized by intensive development of cosmetic production. A feature of this period is the cult of natural materials and at the same time the use of substances obtained by chemical means. In addition, the requirements for cosmetics have changed, its range has expanded.
Nowadays, the main rule in the use of cosmetics is the use of high-quality cosmetics, provided that they are harmless to the skin and body.
On the meaning of cosmetics
Maybe there are people who reject makeup, arguing that even the best makeup will not turn an ugly girl into a beauty and that a truly beautiful woman does not need makeup. However, such an attitude towards cosmetics is fundamentally wrong. It could be compared with the statement that a smart person does not need a school, and no school will help a stupid person. In the same way, there are no such ugly people that their appearance could not be improved by care, ennoblement.
Women's beauty cannot be viewed only in terms of cold, businesslike aesthetics; female beauty is always connected with feelings, it must influence the emotions of those for whom a woman wants to be beautiful. In the methods of cosmetic care, the personality of a person is manifested. It is not enough just to wish to be always in order cosmetically, one must also be able to do it correctly. The natural desire of a woman to be beautiful is deeply rooted in the biological and social division of labor. Human beauty is not given once and for all - it is constantly changing. And in accordance with the development of taste as one of the components of culture, people try to look more beautiful.
General classification and characteristics of the range of cosmetic products
Cosmetic products include products (substances or preparations) intended for application to the human body in order to cleanse, protect and give an attractive appearance. Cosmetics may have a preventive effect, but never a curative one. The latter should be prescribed by physicians, not by consumers themselves.
There is currently no unified generally accepted classification of cosmetic products. A standard for the classification and terminology of cosmetic products has not been developed. It is very difficult to make a clear classification of cosmetics. It is usually based on the properties declared by the manufacturer and often exaggerated for advertising purposes.
The general features of the classification include the purpose, functional effect of cosmetics: hygienic, cosmetic, decorative, protective, treatment-and-prophylactic and special (Table 1). Here you should focus on their main function.
General classification of cosmetics
Tab. one

Classification sign	Classification grouping	Types of cosmetics
functional action	Hygienic (cleansing) Cosmetic (moisturizing, nourishing, tonic, etc.) Decorative Protective Therapeutic and prophylactic Special	Soaps, shampoos Creams, lotions, balms, perspirants Powder, lipstick Hand and body creams Toothpastes Depilators
Consistency	Liquid Emulsion Jelly Ointment Waxy Powder	Lotions, shampoos, varnishes Creams, shampoos Creams, balms Creams, gloss Lipsticks Powders, shadows
Skin type, hair	For dry skin (hair) For normal skin (hair) For oily skin (hair)	Creams, shampoos Lotions Molochko, etc.

Characteristics of the range of decorative cosmetics
The range of decorative cosmetics is divided into four groups depending on the intended use (appointment):
1) face products
2) lip products
3) eye products
4) means for nails.
See table. 2
A common feature of the classification of the range of decorative cosmetics is color(tone), the range of which depends on the type of cosmetics and fashion trends. So, in one scale they produce cosmetics for lips and nails, which does not differ in scale from cosmetics for the face and eyes. In addition, decorative cosmetics differ in the presence glitter or its absence (matte surface), as well as the presence of a pearly sheen. All other features of the classification of the assortment of decorative cosmetics are considered according to the above groups (see Fig. 1).

Decorative cosmetics for the face
The background on which the eyes and lips are emphasized is the basis of all makeup. Depending on the condition and type of skin, problems may arise when using powder or foundation for makeup. Therefore, makeup begins with the selection of a cosmetic product, which is called "make-up base" and is used in order to:
make the skin of the face smooth, even, hide minor imperfections;
Moisturize the skin and create conditions for applying powder, foundation, blush;
Protect the skin from the adverse effects of the environment and decorative cosmetics containing dyes.
Assortment of decorative cosmetics
Tab. 2

When selecting basics it should be borne in mind that its assortment differs in skin type, consistency, shade and situation of use (for daily and evening make-up).
By consistency distinguish the basics:
§ liquid - light, suitable for any type of skin, except for very dry, and for any age;
§ cream - for dry and no longer young skin;
§ mousses - contain nutrients, ideal for dry skin;
§ solid - compact, contains powder, for all skin types, except for very dry ones.
By shade bases are from pink to dark yellow. The so-called additional bases, which serve to correct the shape of the face, have colors unusual for the skin: green, lavender, white. An additional base is applied under a layer of a regular base, thereby giving it a shade. So, the white base is suitable for evening makeup and gives it a special tone. Determine the color of the foundation in natural light, applying a little product to the chin line. In this case, special attention should be paid to how the color is combined with the skin of the face and neck. The base is applied to the moistened skin of the face, neck, décolleté with a cosmetic sponge (and not fingers), first pointwise, and then rubbed.
The final touch of makeup - application to the skin powder and rouge.
The main decorative purpose of the powder is to give the skin color and dullness, which is achieved by introducing pigments into its composition.
Foundation creams have the basis of conventional emulsion creams for any skin, but pigments (5 - 10%) are introduced into them. Therefore, the range of foundation creams is usually subdivided only by shade, for example, “natural matte shade”.
Cream powder contains more pigments (up to 30%), therefore it has a thicker consistency. When applied to the skin with a dry sponge, it gives a powder-like effect, and when applied with a damp sponge, it acts like a foundation.
Masking cream used for the skin under the eyes and masking minor defects. Such company products are produced in the form of series, for example, series developed by L`Oreal and Maybelline.
Concealer Pencils have a thicker consistency. They have a high hiding power and therefore mask redness and skin imperfections. They may contain bactericidal components (masking pencils of the Lumene-Clear Jine series - with antiseptic action).
Compact (pressed) powder differs from powdered in that when pressed, the pigment particles stick together tightly and, as a result, lie on the skin in a thicker layer. To improve compaction, a binder is added to the compact powder, which should not be much, otherwise the powder becomes hard.
Blush produced in two varieties: solid(powdered, compact) and creamy(fat-based). In composition, the former are similar to dry eyeshadows and powders, the latter to creams and masking pencils. Blush varies in shade. The range of solid ("dry") blush is wider, they are more popular than fat-based blush. As a rule, blush is included in cosmetic sets with powder or eye shadow.
Decorative cosmetics for lips
The basis of good lip makeup is their well-groomed skin without cracks and exfoliation. Therefore, all modern makeup products, like lip skin care products, contain vitamins, moisturizers and sunscreens. Make-up of the lips is preceded by their cleansing - with non-alcoholic lotion and cosmetic milk, if resistant lipstick was used before. Lip makeup is performed by three types of cosmetics:

1) contour pencil;
2) lip gloss;
3) lipstick.
Range lipsticks varied in color (tone), which is indicated by the tone number. Large firms produce several tens of tones. So, the Lumene series of the Noiro company, popular in Russia, includes 54 tones. The choice of color depends on age, specific situation (day or evening makeup), fashion trends. Lipsticks are divided into sustainable(leaving no traces of touch) and ordinary(soft, moisturizing, etc.). Persistence of lipstick is given not only by waxes, but also by liquid paraffin, silicones. Sometimes on the labeling of resistant lipsticks there is a clarification - “kissproof” (kiss-resistant, super-resistant), which refers more to advertising than to the features of the lipstick. Persistent lipsticks are produced by Max Factor, L`Oreal, Noiro, Lancome and many others. The peculiarity of the use of resistant lipsticks is that after application they must be fixed, for which you should not compress your lips for 1 - 2 minutes.
Moisturizing lipsticks are the least resistant, so it is recommended to use them with a contour pencil and not to apply during sports and on the beach. To increase the stability of ordinary lipstick, it is applied twice, after the first layer of lipstick, the lips are powdered, and the excess of the second layer is removed with a napkin.
Lip gloss- This is a cosmetic product for light lip makeup, it occupies an intermediate position between hygienic and lipstick. Sometimes the name indicates "lipstick-shine." Gloss is often applied to the lips with a brush - applicator. This cosmetic product is intended to protect lips, care for them, improve their natural color (natural make-up), instead of lipsticks to create a light summer make-up. For evening make-up, gloss is applied to lipstick.
Lip gloss is produced in one color or several shades (from 2 to 10), it may include mother-of-pearl additives or light-reflecting pigments, thanks to which the lips seem to glow. In addition, lip gloss can vary in the smell and color of the jelly-like mass.
With natural or light make-up, gloss is used together with a contour pencil. In combination with lipstick, the lip liner enhances the durability of lip makeup. It is matched to the color of lipstick or a little darker or lighter, which is now fashionable. Previously, it was customary to apply a contour pencil before lipstick. Now makeup artists have come to the conclusion that first you need to apply lipstick, and then contour, so the lips look much more natural. Lip liner pencils come in two types - in the form of a regular pencil in a wooden shell and in a plastic shell with a retractable rod.
Decorative eye products
In decorative cosmetics, eye makeup is of paramount importance. Today, almost 80% of young women in Europe prefer to wear eye make-up only. Therefore, cosmetics manufacturers pay great attention to this group. To create a neat and stable eye makeup, you should start by applying it to the eyelids. base creams for the eyelids, which are powdered on top, only after that they use eye shadow. Not all companies produce the base cream; it is included, for example, in the Lumene series. depending from eyeshadow makeup they are produced on a fat basis (similar in composition to lipstick) and solid, they are produced only in compact ones (similar in composition to compact powder). The stability of makeup when using shadows on a fat basis is low, so they are almost never released now. The range of eyeshadows is divided into colors, shades and number of shades per pack (1-, 2-, 3- and 4-color) and sets . According to the type of surface being created shadows are divided into matte, shiny and mother-of-pearl. The choice in this case is determined by the direction of fashion and the tastes of the consumer. The eyeshadow package includes an applicator.
To emphasize or change the shape of the eyes, tools such as eyeliner, eyeliner and eyebrow pencil.
Pencils for eyes and eyebrows differ only in color, and the colors of eyeliners are more diverse.
Mechanical eyeliner is similar to an eyeliner, but the eyeliner stick extends automatically and sharpens at the same time. This is a more convenient tool compared to a traditional pencil.
Liquid eyeliner is a new cosmetic product that allows you to very carefully emphasize the shape of the eyes, and without pressure on the delicate skin of the eyelids. As a rule, useful additives are included in the liquid eyeliner. This is the most expensive cosmetic product.
After eye shadow and pencil, the most important cosmetic product for the eyes is ink. Makeup, even sophisticated Sámi, will not be complete without carefully tinted eyelashes. Mascara is presented in a fairly wide range (Table 3).
Hard mascara with a brush is practically not produced now, because. she is obsolete. The modern range is represented by creamy mascara. Water resistance of mascara means that it does not form streaks when washed off with water, in the rain, but does not characterize its resistance to sweat and tears. On oily skin, mascara can also be smudged. It's difficult to remove it. When choosing a mascara, you should take into account the shape, size, thickness of the eyelashes and select a tool that will eliminate the flaws. To ensure safety, the product must be tightly closed, applicators and brushes should be washed periodically, especially when using mascara with a spare can.
Mascara range classification
Tab. 3
SHAPE \* MERGEFORMAT

by color

black

blue

gray

Brown etc.

Decorative nail products
The range of this group is represented by varnishes of a wide variety of shades and auxiliary means - diluents and lacquer thinners, base, fixative, fast drying agent and cuticle remover.
Varnish - it is a solution of a film-forming polymer, including a plasticizer and a dye, in an organic solvent. Classic manicure is performed in several layers.
Bottom varnish (base)- This is usually a shiny varnish without dye or pigment. It forms a smooth lacquer surface on the nail, which is applied colored varnish, and as a result, the varnish holds better. In addition, it is assumed that the base should prevent the possible harmful effects of the coloring matter on the nail.
Top varnish (fixer) is a shiny, hard and durable varnish that should increase the durability of nail polish. Base for varnish and fixer can be produced in one bottle. The most diverse range of colored nail polishes. Typically, firms produce gamma in color - up to 70 shades, from light to dark. Ultra series - luminescent colors of the youth direction; they should only be used with a base, as they can leave yellow spots on the nails. Intop S.L. produces chameleon varnish, the color of which changes in the sun; This is a variant of youth club make-up.
There are a number of varnishes with the characteristic "quick-drying". These are varnishes, the drying time of which is 1 - 2 minutes, and the remaining varnishes - more than 2 and 10 minutes. Such lacquers may be coated with a quick drying agent such as Sally Hansen.
Manicure of problematic nails involves the use of not an ordinary, but a moisturizing base (Mary Kay), or a strengthening complex for nail care (Lumene series). Complete nail makeup lacquer fixers, eg Nivea series, or protective varnish. The fixer is used after applying the varnish - it contributes to its drying, or used separately, instead of varnish. Protective varnish applied to the color immediately after applying the varnish and the next 2-3 days, which increases the durability of the color varnish up to two weeks.
Nail polish remover must be active enough to dissolve the nitrocellulose and synthetic resins contained in the varnish, which do not dissolve well. Acetone, which used to be the basis of all nail polish removers, does an excellent job with this. However, together with varnish, it removes the fatty components of the nail plate, which makes it very brittle. In addition, acetone is poorly preserved, volatilizing even from a closed vial. Acetone is widely used today, however, the basis of more modern drugs are various esters: ethyl-, butyl-, amyl acetate or mixtures thereof, as well as toluene and some alcohols. They affect the nail plate to a lesser extent. However, they still degrease it, so emollients (fat additives, waxes, etc.) are added to the nail polish remover.
For removing varnish from especially brittle and sensitive nails developed creams and emulsions, in which waxes and fats are introduced in much larger quantities. Creams are recommended for brittle, exfoliating nails. They are a water-in-oil emulsion. Creams contain moisture-retaining (propylene glycol), firming ingredients, such as low molecular weight keratin derivatives, allantoin and a vitamin complex. All this helps the nails to compensate for the loss of fats and moisture, maintain shine and elasticity, and become more durable. Formaldehyde is added to creams designed for very soft nails.
Film mask released as a liquid. It is a nutrient concentrate with a gelling agent. This liquid quickly hardens and forms a strong film, which must be removed after a few hours. Active substances and a complex of vitamins contribute to the regeneration of the nail plate, restoring its structure.
Cuticle removers contain derivatives of thioglycolic acid, capable of dissolving the keratin of the stratum corneum. To perform their function, an alkaline environment (pH 9 and above) is required, therefore, solutions of sodium and potassium hydroxides form the basis of cuticle removers. This method of cuticle removal has advantages over the traditional mechanical method, because he is bloodless. With a traditional manicure, nippers can damage the growth zone of the nail. However, the content of potent substances in preparations for removing the cuticle is also unsafe, therefore, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for their use.

Reliability of cosmetics
The reliability of cosmetic products is primarily related to their shelf life and is determined by expiration date, which can be from several months to 3 years. A longer shelf life of cosmetics should cause careful attention to its composition, and above all to the type and amount of preservative.
The shelf life of domestic cosmetics is determined by regulatory documents (Table 4). However, when using new, higher quality preservatives, the shelf life increases, therefore, in the production of cosmetics, the practice of establishing the shelf life by the manufacturer himself, which is based on the formulation of the product, has developed. The shelf life is confirmed by tests for accelerated aging. So, it is customary for French manufacturers to keep the product at 40 ° C for a week and at minus 40 ° C for the second; if the properties of cosmetics have not changed - its shelf life is more than 30 months. Moreover, in the marking in accordance with EU Directives 76/768, this period is not indicated (only a period of less than 30 months is indicated). Russian regulations require the obligatory indication of the expiration date, so now foreign companies supplying cosmetic products to our country always indicate the expiration date.
The French Association of Cosmetics Manufacturers pays great attention to the quality of products and believes that cosmetic products should be sold within 3 months. after their production. After all, the buyer can use the tool for a long time, and the tool is already open.

Expiry date of decorative cosmetics
Tab. four

In the process of aging may change: color, smell, taste (lipsticks). So, during the storage of lipstick, chemical oxidation processes can occur, as a result of which the smell of rancidity appears, seals are noted in the mass, and the color changes.
Security properties beauty products are no less important than functional ones. The following factors influence the safety of cosmetics:
ü composition;
ü quality of initial components;
ü technological process of obtaining;
ü Packing and packing;
ü conditions of storage and sale;
the conditions of consumption.
At each stage of the life cycle, certain processes can occur in cosmetic products that cause changes that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, to check the safety of cosmetic products, a set of tests is carried out, almost the same as in Europe. So it is in Russia. Cosmetics made according to a new recipe are especially carefully checked. Complex of tests chemical indicators many cosmetics include the definition pH value, acid number. All these indicators determine the effect of cosmetics on human skin. Cosmetics should not contain toxic elements- lead, mercury, arsenic.
During production, packaging, use and storage, cosmetic products can be contaminated to varying degrees with microorganisms that can continue to develop in the cosmetic product, resulting in deterioration. Therefore, most cosmetics are tested for microbiological safety. To suppress the development of colonies of microorganisms, inhibitors and preservatives are introduced into the composition of cosmetic products. At the stage of production and packaging, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of sterility and asepsis. This can only be achieved by fully automating the process. It is especially important to observe the sterility of decorative cosmetics for the eyes.
Contamination by microorganisms can also occur at the stage of application of the products, when the package is repeatedly opened. This applies primarily to funds packaged in jars with a wide mouth, because. a large surface of the product interacts with the environment and human hands. The best packaging are tubes, bottles with a small opening and a dosing device. If the product has already begun to be used, then it is better to use it as soon as possible, therefore, it is better to buy cosmetic products in small packages. It is advisable to use funds in large packaging not for personal purposes, but for professional use.
All cosmetic products are a complex, multicomponent system, which includes fatty, structure-forming, surfactants, dyes, special additives (antimicrobial, photoprotective, etc.), biologically active substances (vitamins), etc. therefore, a thorough assessment is necessary. toxicological properties in order to ensure the release of high-quality products that are harmless to the consumer. The program of toxicological studies includes the study of both the ingredients of cosmetics and the finished product, taking into account its purpose and conditions of use. Toxicology studies the effects of chemicals on the body of animals, establishes safe levels of exposure, allows you to regulate the content of ingredients in the formulations of finished products. When conducting toxicological studies, the following are determined:
1. Acute toxicity (in cosmetics allowed for use not lower than hazard class 4, sometimes 3);
2. Chronic toxicity (long-term use)
3. Skin-resorptive action;
4. Irritant action;
5. Sensitizing (allergenic) action.
Due to the high biological activity of cosmetic products, the possibility of their penetration into the human body through the skin barrier and mucous membrane, as well as the subsequent effect on individual organs and systems, cosmetic products must be subjected to clinical trials in order to establish their harmlessness to humans. This is all the more important because in everyday life cosmetics are used constantly and for a long time.
When studying the safety of cosmetic products, it should be taken into account that there is a real possibility of some of them getting into the respiratory tract (powder), on the mucous membrane of the eyes (mascara), and on the mucous membrane of the lips (lipsticks).
Clinical trials on volunteers - probants are carried out only with positive results of chemical, microbiological and toxicological tests. The safety assessment is based on the effect of the product on the skin and on the general condition of the person. The question of the safety of a cosmetic product for widespread use is decided only after the positive results of all studies.
Characteristics of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics
The nomenclature of quality indicators of decorative cosmetics products is determined not only by their purpose, but also by their composition. Requirements for the quality of lipsticks, gloss, lip balms, eye shadows, blush and pencils for lips, eyelids, eyebrows, made on a fat basis, are determined by GOST 28767 - 90.
The most important components of such products are wax (bees, carnauba), which gives plasticity, durability, the ability not to spread, and oils (castor, cocoa butter, etc.), which act as softening components and solvents for dyes. As useful additives, vitamins E, A, ceramides, extracts, sunscreens are introduced into the composition.
The main physical and chemical indicators of such goods are dropping point, and for lipsticks - acidic and carbonyl numbers (Table 5). The dropping point of decorative products should be optimal. At a low dropping point, cosmetics “drips” from the face, lips, eyelids, and at a high drop point, it is poorly applied to the skin, it hardly covers it. The quality of the used fatty ingredients of animal and vegetable origin is characterized by carbonyl and acid numbers. Spoiled fatty components give the lipstick a bitter taste, lumpiness, rancid smell.

Tab. 5
Physico-chemical parameters of decorative products based on fat