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What are ceramides in cream? Ceramides (ceramides) in cosmetics - what is it? Ceramides or ceramides, which is correct

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Ceramides and skin

The main task of our skin is to protect the body from external aggression (biological, chemical, physical) and help maintain inner peace, or, as doctors say, homeostasis. The evolution of the skin in humans as a biological species inhabiting planet Earth, their formation from the moment of conception to birth, renewal and restoration throughout life and, of course, structural uniqueness and functioning - everything is subordinated to the solution of this vital task.

Today, much is known about the structure and operation of the skin barrier, and this knowledge is successfully used for the benefit of humans. In this publication, we will touch upon one of the interesting, complex and important aspects related to skin permeability and its barrier function. Almost nothing passes through intact skin, and this is an indispensable condition for maintaining the integrity of our body. This is true both for substances that come into contact with the skin from the outside and for those that are inside. It is the skin, and specifically its stratum corneum, that protects us from moisture loss. How the stratum corneum copes with this task became known in the late 90s of the last century, and these ideas brought experimental and practical dermatology to a new level and laid the foundation for the development of the modern concept of prevention and correction of skin problems and treatment of skin pathologies.

According to the views accepted in the modern scientific world, the stratum corneum is similar to brickwork, where the role of bricks is played by corneocytes - absolutely impenetrable horny scales through which diffusion of substances is impossible. Horny scales are held together by intercellular “cement” - a lamellar structure, which is an alternation of lipid layers (membranes) parallel to each other, between which there is a thin layer of water. This structure is often called the lipid barrier of the skin in the scientific literature, and it is this structure that serves as the main permeability barrier and regulates the passage of substances through the stratum corneum. Understanding how the lipid barrier is formed, what it consists of and how it functions provides ample opportunities in terms of regulating skin permeability - this is important for the local use of cosmetics and medications. Modern developments of dermatotropic drugs and the development of programs for skin care and restoration are carried out taking into account the structure and condition of the skin barrier.

The most important component of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum is ceramides - in the body, these amazing lipids are found in the myelin sheaths of neurons in the brain, where they were first discovered and which is why they got their name (from the Latin cerebrum - brain). Ceramides form the basis of the lipid matrix - they account for half (50 mol%) of all lipids. Another common component is cholesterol (free and ester-bound) - 30-35 mol%). The remaining lipids are free fatty acids. (Such a unique quantitative and qualitative lipid composition is characteristic only of the stratum corneum. In the membranes of living cells - the external (plasma) and internal ones surrounding the organelles - the key component is phospholipids, and cholesterol occupies only a few percent.

Ceramides: chemical structure and nomenclature

Ceramides, together with sphingomyelin, glycosphingolipids and phosphosphingosides, belong to the group of sphingolipids. In the case of ceramides, one of the fatty acid residues is atypically attached through an amide bond to the corresponding base (amino alcohol). From a chemical point of view, the diversity of ceramides is due to the many possible combinations of two structural components - a polar “head” (sphingosine base) and a hydrophobic “tail” (fatty acid). The following sphingosine bases (amino alcohols) are involved in the formation of ceramides: sphingosine, phytosphingosine, b-hydroxysphingosine and dihydrosphingosine. Attached to the base is a fatty acid chain (“tail”) of varying lengths (from 16 to 28 carbon atoms in increments of two atoms, depending on the type of ceramide).

A distinctive feature of some skin ceramides is their unique chemical structure, which is not found in ceramides of other body tissues. The most interesting example is O-acylated ceramides, which have long acyl chains with a terminal hydroxyl group. This group may remain unchanged or may be ethyrified with linoleic acid or a-hydroxy acids. In addition, hydroxyceramides can form a chemical bond with proteins (due to this, the lipid barrier is attached to the horny envelopes of corneocytes). These chemical features underlie the ability of ceramides to form a compact and dense structure of the stratum corneum. Any impacts that destroy such bonds involving ceramide molecules or other components of the intercellular “cement” cause transepidermal loss of moisture and facilitate the penetration of potentially harmful exogenous substances into the body.

At least 11 classes of ceramides have been identified, numbered according to their thin layer chromatography fraction number (higher number corresponds to higher ceramide polarity). Later research led to the emergence of a new, systematic classification, in which the class number is replaced by a letter designation, from which the chemical structure of ceramide is clear. The last letter in the designation corresponds to the sphingosine base:

S - sphingosine;

P - phytosphingosine;

N - b-hydroxysphingosine;

DS - dihydrosphingosine.

This is preceded by a letter indicating the type of fatty acid residue:

N - non-hydroxy acid;

A - a-hydroxy acid;

O - sh-hydroxy acid.

Ceramides are a subclass of lipid molecules, the simplest type of sphingolipids, consisting of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Ceramides are an important lipid component of the cell membrane. Ceramide is involved as a precursor molecule in the synthesis of sphingomyelin. In the cell, ceramides play the role of not only a membrane element, but also a signaling molecule. They are involved in cellular processes such as cell differentiation, cell proliferation and apoptosis.

If a fatty acid attached through an ester bond is found in the ceramide structure, the letter E is placed before the designation. In the stratum corneum of the skin there are ceramides designated according to this nomenclature as: EOS, NS, EOP, NR EOH, AS, NH, AP, NDS, ADS and AN. In addition, the two ceramides that form covalent bonds are designated OS and OH. Ceramides EOS, EOH and EOP contain linoleic acid attached to the terminal hydroxyl group, and α-hydroxy acids through an ester bond. Each ceramide differs in the structure of the sphingosine base or the length of the fatty acid chain.

Ceramides as the basis of intercellular “cement”

Intercellular lipids account for about 15% of the dry weight of the stratum corneum of the skin. As mentioned above, lipids are a mixture of ceramides (about 50 mol%), cholesterol and its esters (30-35 mol%) and free fatty acids (about 15 mol%). This proportion is important for the normal functioning of the barrier, and its change is fraught with disruption of the water balance of the stratum corneum, which is clinically expressed in the development of dry skin (read more about dry skin in the article) with all the ensuing consequences.

Ceramides as precursors are synthesized in special organelles of granular keratinocytes, called lamellar granules (or Odland granules). Analysis of the lipid content of the granules showed that they contain mainly phospholipids and sphingolipids (glycosphingolipids and sphingomyelin), which are subsequently modified into ceramides and free fatty acids. The main process of formation of lamellar structures occurs at the border of the granular and stratum corneum of the skin. Two important enzymes work here - phospholipase A2 and B-glucocerebrosidase, which catalyze the breakdown of ceramide precursors and the formation of the final form of intercellular “cement”. For the correct occurrence of this process, a certain water content and the acidity value of the medium (pH) are very important. Phospholipase A2 has maximum activity at neutral pH, while other enzymes prefer a more acidic environment. Water is important for the functioning of all enzymes, so the barrier function of the stratum corneum can be impaired in conditions of prolonged dehydration of the stratum corneum, which is observed in some pathologies (psoriasis, xerosis) and in cases where the skin is often exposed to detergents.

Many works have been devoted to the study of the structure of the stratum corneum and lipid matrix. According to one of the most popular models, the intercellular “cement” has a mosaic structure and consists of two characteristic zones: the “crystalline” zone is practically impermeable to water; it is divided by small sections of a “liquid crystal” zone, which allows water to pass through much better. Due to this organization, the intercellular “cement” has a certain permeability to water, high plasticity and resistance to mechanical stress. The mosaic nature of the lipid matrix is ​​supported, among other things, by the fact that the ceramides included in its composition are heterogeneous and are represented by several classes with different physicochemical and structural features. Each type of ceramide plays a different role. Thus, ceramide 1 (EOS), a fundamental component of intercellular cement, is responsible for cross-linking corneocytes with matrix lipids, and its deficiency is one of the main causes of many dermatoses.

Cosmetics based on ceramides (for example,) are especially recommended for restoring skin after damaging aesthetic procedures (including), as well as for caring for dry skin with a damaged barrier. It is a wonderful example of introducing fundamental knowledge into practice and embodies corneotherapeutic approaches that are becoming increasingly popular among dermatologists and cosmetologists.

Ceramides as cell cycle regulators

So, ceramides are the main element of the lipid barrier, but, as further research has shown, they perform not only a structural function, but are also a regulator of some important processes occurring in skin cells. Ceramides act like second messengers in the cell cycle. Thus, they play a significant role in apoptosis - programmed cell death, affecting cell proliferation and differentiation. The “vector” of this influence depends on the specific type of ceramide and can be multidirectional for different compounds: in some cases it is stimulation, in others it is inhibition.

The biological activity of ceramides on the cell cycle has been confirmed experimentally: by adding exogenous ceramides and sphingomyelin to keratinocyte cell cultures, their effect on cell proliferation and differentiation has been demonstrated. Two short-chain synthetic ceramides C2 and C6, two natural ceramides 3 and 6A, as well as sphingomyelin were taken. Keratinocytes were incubated in a medium containing 0.5; 1; 5 and 10 µM of the test substance. All ceramides studied, except sphingomyelin, inhibited cell proliferation. Ceramide C2 turned out to be the most active - at a concentration of 10 µM it inhibited DNA synthesis by 60%. Natural ceramides showed only a small effect on proliferation rates.

Ceramides for pregnant women and embryo development

Ceramides are required for embryo formation. Ceramides play a key role in the transformation of a clump of stem cells into a full-fledged embryo. Scientists at the University of Georgia, working under the direction of Dr. Erhard Bieberich, found that in the early stages of embryonic development, ceramides accumulate in the apical zone of cells directed into the cavity, helping to form the poles of the embryo. Polarity is necessary for cell differentiation and the transformation of a sphere consisting of undifferentiated cells into a structured embryo. According to Bieberich, at the very beginning we are clumps of stem cells, but literally within 24 hours some of the cells die, and some form a hollow sphere with an inner layer (primitive endoderm), which gradually turns into an embryo, and an outer layer (primitive ectoderm ), supporting the development of the embryo.

Ceramides perform several functions in both developing and mature organisms: in particular, they are the main structural elements of the skin barrier and serve as precursors in the synthesis of the protective sheath of nerve cells - myelin. Recently, scientists have received more and more evidence that, in addition to structural ceramides, they perform a number of signaling functions. In an earlier study, Bieberich's group showed that ceramide, in a complex with the PAR-4 protein, is involved in the elimination of unnecessary cells during brain development. The results of the latest work indicate that ceramides concentrated in the apical zone of cells attract proteins that ensure the formation of polarity and trigger a cascade of reactions with their participation.

When ceramide synthesis was artificially suppressed, polarizing proteins did not accumulate in the apical zone, cells died, and endoderm formation did not occur. The restoration of ceramide synthesis completely normalized all processes. The authors plan to undertake a detailed study of the functions of ceramides in mature cells. They suggest that disturbances in its synthesis can lead to cells losing direction in the tissue structure and to their malignancy. There are also diseases in which a large number of cells die as a result of triggering a self-destruction mechanism (apoptosis). Perhaps the reason for this is an increase in the level of ceramides inside the cells. To study the localization and concentration of ceramides in cells, scientists have already developed antibodies that specifically bind to these lipids and allow them to be visualized and quantified.

"Cementing" properties of ceramides

Over the past few years, a number of studies have been conducted regarding the topical application of ceramides and other components of the intercellular lipid “cement”. The main interest of the researchers was the effect of these compounds on the barrier function of the skin. The barrier properties of the skin are assessed by its ability to prevent the evaporation of water from the body. We have already said that the main restraining structure is the stratum corneum. However, it is not a 100% barrier, and normally some amount of water constantly evaporates through the skin. Water slowly seeps through the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum from the inside to the outside and, upon reaching the surface, evaporates into the atmosphere. This process is called transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and with any damage to the stratum corneum, the level of TEWL increases.

The TEWL index is used to assess the ability of local drugs to restore the barrier properties of the stratum corneum. The work studied the properties of two emulsion preparations (like lamellar emulsions): one contained only ceramides 3 and 3V (a semi-synthetic analogue of natural ceramides), the other contained their combinations with ceramide b, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and linoleic acid. The study involved 12 women aged 22-24 years. Before using the drugs, the stratum corneum was damaged by treatment with a surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate, SLS) or a non-polar solvent (acetone). Long-term (24 hours) contact with SLS caused a change in the structure of the intercellular “cement” - the skin responded to this by increasing the TEWL index. Application of acetone led to the “washing out” (extraction) of lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, which also damaged the stratum corneum and increased TEWL. Application of an emulsion, which contained both ceramides, led to an insignificant decrease in TEWL and an increase in skin hydration in areas where “damaging” agents were applied - a surfactant and a non-polar solvent. Significantly better effects were achieved with the help of the second drug: its use reduced TEWL by 20% and increased the moisture content of the stratum corneum by 10%.

Many skin barrier dysfunctions are associated with a decrease in ceramide content or significant changes in their proportions. Therefore, topical application of the “right” mixture of ceramides and other lipids found in the stratum corneum can improve barrier function. In particular, it has been shown that the systematic application of a specially formulated mixture of ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids restores the impaired function of the intercellular “cement” and significantly increases the moisture content of the stratum corneum (more on skin hydration). What is interesting: when each of the components of the drug was used separately or even in paired combinations, no effect was observed. Moreover, in these cases, regeneration even slowed down, and only a three-component mixture in the correct proportion accelerated the regeneration of the barrier. Based on these results, it can be concluded that all three compounds - ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids - are essential for skin barrier function.

Topical application of a mixture of physiological lipids of the stratum corneum and semi-synthetic ceramide 3 also proved effective, especially in the case of various dermatoses (contact dermatitis (CD), allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) or atopic dermatitis (AD)) - study results (duration 4 or 8 weeks) this was confirmed in 580 patients with one of these pathologies.

In recent years, their analogs have become increasingly used as a substitute for ceramides. The properties of pseudoceramides are close to those of natural substances, and in some cases they are an almost ideal replacement for ceramides. Ceramides applied to the skin are able to restore defects in the intercellular structure caused not only by aging or exogenous factors (including cosmetic procedures such as peeling, dermabrasion, mesotherapy), but also by skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. The restorative effect is especially pronounced when using mixtures in which ceramides are combined with other components of the intercellular “cement” of the stratum corneum - cholesterol and free fatty acids.

In addition to exvivo experiments, computer modeling of the basic properties of pseudoceramides was carried out in comparison with natural ceramides (EOS, EOP, EON), including the surface area and volume of the molecule, the distribution coefficient between the polar and non-polar phases, etc. The performance of pseudoceramide 14S24 confirmed that it can be used as a replacement for ceramides in the composition of intercellular “cement”. The regenerative properties of pseudoceramide M-palmitoyl-4-hydroxy-1_-proline (Bio 391) were studied. Its effectiveness was compared with emulsions containing ceramide 2 or ceramide 3. After 24 hours of topical skin exposure to 2% SLS, TEWL and skin erythema were recorded, and all three substances had similar effects in reducing skin water loss. To find the optimal therapeutic concentration of pseudoceramide Bio 391, dose-effect relationships were built, and it turned out that moisture loss and skin redness are most effectively reduced at concentrations of 1.0 and 0.5%, respectively. In areas treated with pseudoceramide, TEWL was reduced by 36% compared to placebo (blank) emulsion treatment, and erythema scores were 25% lower compared to controls.

The anti-inflammatory effect of pseudoceramide is an important point. It is known that the regeneration of the skin barrier function is inhibited in the presence of inflammation. When pseudoceramide Bio 391 was used together with HA-bisabolol, a synergistic effect was observed in reducing erythema. Effective reduction of redness was observed with 0.1% pseudoceramide and 0.1% bisabolol.

Currently, natural ceramides are rarely used in dermatotropic preparations. On the one hand, as ingredients they are too expensive, on the other hand, there are a number of technical difficulties when included in recipes. Instead, semi-synthetic or synthetic ceramides are used that are free of these disadvantages. A number of independent studies have confirmed that these compounds are one of the most promising classes of cosmetic ingredients.

An interesting analysis of the fine molecular structure of the intercellular “cement” was carried out using small-angle X-ray diffraction. It turned out that the lipids of the stratum corneum form two crystalline lamellar phases, distinguished by periodicity (6.4 and 13.4 nm). The last phase - called the long period phase (LPP) - is especially important for the operation of the barrier. The FDP is formed by three layers: two wide (5 nm wide) containing ceramides, and one narrow (3 nm) filled with a mixture of ceramides and cholesterol, forming a liquid crystalline phase (“sandwich” model). Consequently, the use in treatment of a mixture of ceramides capable of forming such structures can give very good results in restoring the stratum corneum, which has been confirmed experimentally.

Using wide- and small-angle X-ray diffraction, it was established that the spatial organization of sphingolipids in the mixture EOP/EOS/NP/NS/AP/hexanoylphytosphingosine/hexanoylsphingosine (see Fig. 1) is similar to that observed in intercellular “cement”. Regular local use of such a mixture will allow the delivery of all the substances necessary to restore the skin barrier “in place”, as was shown in experiments in vivo and in vitro using oil-in-water emulsions containing this mixture of lipids. The study measured TEWL, skin hydration and elasticity and recorded changes associated with the use of a sphingolipid mixture compared to a control emulsion (which did not contain sphingolipids). The results were encouraging: TEWL decreased by 4 units, skin hydration increased by 10 units, and skin elasticity increased by 8%. As a result, the mixture of sphingolipids used not only restored the stratum corneum of the skin and increased its hydration, but also increased the elasticity of the skin.

Conclusions about ceramides and their action

Ceramides are key structural elements of the stratum corneum, having a direct effect on skin permeability in both directions and on the “cementation” of corneocytes. Ceramides applied to the skin are able to restore defects in the intercellular structure caused not only by aging or exogenous factors (including cosmetic procedures such as peeling, dermabrasion, mesotherapy), but also by skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. The restorative effect is especially pronounced when using mixtures in which ceramides are combined with other components of the intercellular “cement” of the stratum corneum. It is important to maintain clear proportions between the individual components of the mixtures, apparently in order to, to one degree or another, reproduce the composition of the intercellular matrix and, consequently, its structure.

Currently, natural ceramides are rarely used in dermatotropic preparations. On the one hand, as ingredients they are too expensive (they are difficult to isolate and obtain in the required industrial quantities), on the other hand, there are a number of technical difficulties when included in formulations. Instead, semi-synthetic or synthetic ceramides are used that are free of these disadvantages. A number of independent studies have confirmed that these compounds are one of the most promising classes of cosmetic ingredients.

Cosmetics based on ceramides are especially recommended for restoring skin after damaging aesthetic procedures, as well as for caring for dry skin with a damaged barrier. It is a wonderful example of introducing fundamental knowledge into practice and embodies corneotherapeutic approaches that are becoming increasingly popular among dermatologists and cosmetologists.

» Ceramides, their types and action

Ceramides, their types and action.

I continue to conduct educational work.

I don’t know why many people have the opinion that all ceramides are the same and that, in essence, they are of no use. But at the same time, everyone knows that peptides are different and even know how to use them (not everyone, but many know or pretend to know), although in essence, all peptides also have the same goal - rejuvenation. But when you start talking about ceramides, many people say that hydration can be obtained with cheaper assets. And many do not understand the difference between different types of ceramides and what they do, and how to combine them; they do not even have the slightest idea. And when I ask the question why manufacturers make mixes from ceramides, many people think that this is just some kind of marketing ploy by the manufacturers))) A small but intelligible example. This is if you had a familiar plumber named Sergei, and you thought that all Sergei must be plumbers. It's the same with ceramides.

Ceramides and glycosylceramides are vital molecules in numerous biological processes such as apoptosis*, the process by which a cell actively “commits suicide”; signal transduction, a cascade of processes by which extracellular signals interact with a receptor on the cell surface; and mitogenesis, the process of promoting transit through the cell cycle.
*I’ll say right away that apoptosis is the death of a cell. And unfortunately, many of my customers feel sorry for the poor cell and don’t want it to die))) Girls, if the cells don’t die, then they will multiply and multiply and multiply and the result will be a malignant or benign tumor (depending on who is lucky), in fact, this is how cancer develops. Therefore, the process of apoptosis is simply necessary.
In fact, ceramides are formed by the hydrolysis of sphingomyelin, they activate a cycle followed by three different cellular responses: down-regulation of cell proliferation, induction of cell differentiation and apoptosis. It was found that the influence of long-chain ceramides in the model membrane (16-24 C)* increases the two-layer permeability to aqueous solutions. This effect is not maintained in the presence of short-chain ceramides (2-6 carbons). (Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Lipo Chimcals Inc., Paterson, N.J., USA)
*Long chain ceramides, comprising up to 40% of the lipid matrix and containing linoleic acid. Sphingoid bases are combined with fatty acids, including free lower fatty acids. These acids perform a number of important biological functions, including preventing TepV and maintaining the acidic pH level of the stratum corneum of the epidermis (K.N. Monakhov, D.K. Dombrovskaya)
By the way, it has been tested more than once! For atopic dermatitis, it is better to wash your face with slightly acidic products (pH approximately 5-5.5), so the skin recovers faster.


Even with a slight disruption of the epidermal barrier and an increase in its permeability, keratinocytes begin to produce cytokines that regulate the process of restoration of the stratum corneum. When the stratum corneum is damaged extensively or too frequently, these cytokines trigger an inflammatory response. At least nine classes of ceramides have been identified and are designated CER l–CER 9. In 1993, a study of psoriatic scale ceramide composition proposed a simple system of ceramide nomenclature that is based on ceramide structure. They first divided ceramides into five classes. In this system, an amide-linked fatty acid is designated by one letter: N - normal fatty acid; A – alpha hydroxy acid; 0 – omega hydroxy acid. Similarly, S denotes the long-chain backbone for sphingosine; H is for 6-hydroxysphingosine and P is for phytosphingosine. Thus, for example, ceramide 2 can clearly be called ceramide NS. The presence of an ester fatty acid in acylceramides is indicated by the prefix E. O-acylceramides have distinctive structures not observed in other tissues. Their unique structures ensure their functionality in the permeability barrier of the epidermis. The ester fatty acids in each of the three o-acylceramides (EOS, EOP, EOH) in normal healthy epidermis are predominantly linoleic acid.

So, the classification of ceramides:
S - sphingosine;
P - phytosphingosine;
N - b-hydroxysphingosine;
DS - dihydrosphingosine.
This is preceded by a letter indicating the type of fatty acid residue:
N - non-hydroxy acid;
A - a-hydroxy acid;
O - sh-hydroxy acid.

In case of fatty acid deficiency, linoleate is replaced by oleate. This creates disorder in the intercellular plates, leading to increased TEWL. Extracellular glycosylceramides and sphingomyelins are precursors of ceramide. The enzymes beta-glucosylceramidase and sphingomyelinase are responsible for the hydrolysis and formation of ceramides from these precursors. Both precursors and enzymes are responsible for the homeostasis of the epidermal permeability barrier. The process of desquamation (exfoliation of skin cells) depends on the conversion of cholesterol sulfate to cholesterol. There is a hypothesis that all major subfractions of ceramides are derived from lamellar bodies containing glucosylceramides. This hypothesis is based on the reported chemical structures of epidermal-l glucosylceramides and skin ceramides. It is also known that ceramides containing sphingomionic substances are necessary for normal homeostasis of barrier function. Two epidermal sphygomyelins SM-I and SM-3 were found to be important precursors of two corresponding ceramides: ceramide NS (ceramide 2) and ceramide AS (ceramide 5), respectively. Other ceramide species, including omega-hydroxyceramide species, exhibit varying levels of saturation, and are not derived from sphingomyelin.

In addition, ceramides play a role in other biochemical processes of the skin. Ceramides were found to be present at significant levels in both the basal cells and the upper epidermis. In basal epidermal cells and fibroblasts, ceramides were found in the cell nuclear envelope, inner and outer mitochondrial membranes, endoplasmic reticulum and on the plasma membrane. In the upper epidermis, ceramides are localized in lamellar bodies, granular membrane and in the intercellular space.
Violation of the skin barrier with organic solvents (alcohol, acetone or surfactants) first causes significant evaporation of moisture. But after a while, if the skin is healthy, it begins to recover. The synthesis of free fatty acids, sphingolipids and cholesterol in the living layers of the epidermis increases, which leads to the restoration of the barrier. Cholesterol synthesis will begin 90 minutes after the barrier is broken. Peeling also works on this principle, when the skin first experiences stress from damage and then begins to recover. This synthesis is regulated by the enzyme HMG CoA reductase. Syntherolipid synthesis, which is regulated by serine palmitoyltransferase, will begin approximately six hours after barrier disruption. But if the barrier disruption is chronic, it will also stimulate DNA synthesis and cell division. Most cutaneous diseases that have decreased barrier function also show decreased total ceramide content. Xerosis, a condition of pathological dry skin associated with aging and other problems, results from decreased skin collagen levels and ceramide content. Formulations containing lipids that are similar in composition to the structure of the skin, and in particular ceramides, have been shown to improve skin condition. Ceramides are also used in moisturizing formulas to reduce irritation from surfactants and other harsh substances, in combination with alpha hydroxy acids to help strengthen the skin. Complete lipid combinations that include the three major components of intercellular lipids (fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides) have been shown to result in the formation of normal lamellar bodies to support and restore intercellular bilayers.
Understanding the ratios and combinations of different lipids may be the basis for the development of new forms of topical therapy for various skin diseases that involve skin and epidermal damage. For example, when an emollient cream with ceramide NP (ceramide 3) was applied to the skin, it showed a significant reduction in erythema and TEWL compared to control. With atopic dermatitis and aging, there is a change in the content of ceramides and their proportions. Two types of deacylases have been described that hydrolyze the amide bond in sphingomyelin and glucosylceramides. However, they are not expressed in normal healthy epidermis. These enzymes are thought to be at least partially responsible for the reduction in ceramide levels in the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis.

Skin flora during chronological aging and atopic dermatitis.
Analysis of the entire epidermis of chronologically aging skin showed that the total amount of lipids decreases by 30%, while the proportions of ceramides remain unchanged. The skin becomes dry and more permeable. Skin microbial flora has been found to be one of the factors responsible for ceramide deficiency in the skin. The enzyme ceramidase breaks down ceramide into sphingosine and fatty acids. This enzyme has been found to be secreted in excess by the bacterial flora in patients with atopic dermatitis compared to healthy subjects. This increases skin hypersensitivity by disrupting the permeability barrier.
The article writes about some strange enzymes. These enzymes are divided into two groups: some destroy the skin mantle, while others help restore the skin. The latter are builders who “mix cement and repair brickwork.” That is, they disassemble lipids that have come from outside (your emulsion that you applied to the skin) into particles and from them they already build epidermal lipids.

Ideal proportion is 3:1:1. But to solve each problem, its own proportion is needed.
For skin after photodamage, the following proportion is needed:
1 part ceramides: 1 part cholesterol (or phytosterols): 3 parts essential fatty acids
For skin with atopic dermatitis the following proportion is needed:
3 parts ceramides: 1 part cholesterol (phytosterols): 1 part essential fatty acids

For aging skin, it needs its own proportion:
1 part ceramides: 3 parts cholesterol (phytosterols): 1 part essential fatty acids.
Essential fatty acids are Omega-3 and Omega-6, vitamin F. The most famous are wheat germ oil, camelina, mustard, borage (borage), evening primrose, currant, caviar extract (CO2), fish oil, etc. These acids help normalize cholesterol metabolism. It is worth noting that unsaturated fatty acids are also found in lecithin, and this should be taken into account to create the correct proportion that is necessary to solve a particular problem. Also, you can often find that in medicinal creams, triglycerides are introduced instead of essential fatty acids. And this is not surprising, since they replace essential fatty acids and at the same time, such an emulsion will be less susceptible to oxidation. In addition, do not forget that all oils are, by their nature, neutral fats, which are based on triglycerides.
Oils and skin barrier integrity are very closely related. If you get carried away with excessive amounts of oils, then on the contrary, you will only destroy the skin barrier. Since lipids in large quantities and with systematic abuse will only dilute lipid layers, disrupt their structure, and over time, only destroy it. On the physical plane, this will result in the manifestation of xerosis and dermatitis.
Let us now return to our “cement”; this, in fact, is a lipid matrix that contains ceramides. This matrix contains different types of ceramides. Currently there are 9 species of them (read above).

Types of ceramides and their characteristics:
Type I (first type of EOS ceramides) - play an important role in the organization of lipids in the stratum corneum. Responsible for balancing the relative elasticity and density of the skin, i.e. so that the skin is quite strong, but at the same time flexible. He is also responsible for the process of crosslinking corneocytes with matrix lipids. Its deficiency is one of the main causes of many dermatitis. (Ponec et al. J. Invest Dermatol 120:581-588, 2003) (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH)
Type II ceramide(has two names - ceramide NS or ceramide NG). It is of synthetic origin through the formation of amides. Responsible for inhibition (suppression) of cell proliferation and induces apoptosis.

Inhibits protein kinase and protein phosphatase. Proliferation is the appearance and growth of new cells and intracellular structures. With the help of proliferation, the defect formed due to tissue damage (scars, stretch marks, etc.) is eliminated and the impaired function is normalized. But proliferation also contributes to the development of tumors, etc. Therefore, for the balance of cell growth and death, such ceramide is simply necessary.[Kim M.Y. et al., 1991 ] . Test - two short-chain synthetic ceramides were taken - ceramide 2 and ceramide 6, two natural ceramides 3 and 6A, as well as sphingomyelin. Keratinocytes were incubated in a medium containing 0.5; 1; 5 and 10 µM of the test substance. All ceramides studied, except sphingomyelin, inhibited cell proliferation. The ceramide ceramide 2 turned out to be the most active - at a concentration of 10 µM it inhibited DNA synthesis by 60%. Natural ceramides showed only a small effect on proliferation rates. (http://www.frauleto.ru/articles/ceramidy-i-kozha/).

Ceramide type III prevents water loss, restores the barrier properties of the stratum corneum. However, for more effective work, ceramide-3 is usually combined with ceramide-6, phytosphingosine and linoleic acid.
Test - The work studied the properties of two emulsion preparations (like lamellar emulsions): one contained only ceramides 3 and 3V (a semi-synthetic analogue of natural ceramides), the other contained their combinations with ceramide b, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and linoleic acid. The study involved 12 women aged 22-24 years. Before using the drugs, the stratum corneum was damaged by treatment with a surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate) or a non-polar solvent (acetone). Long-term (24 hours) contact with sodium lauryl sulfate caused a change in the structure of the intercellular “cement” - the skin responded to this by increasing the TEWL index. Application of acetone led to the “washing out” (extraction) of lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, which also damaged the stratum corneum and increased TEWL. Application of an emulsion, which contained both ceramides, led to an insignificant reduction in TEWL and an increase in skin hydration in areas where “damaging” agents were applied - a surfactant and a non-polar solvent. Significantly better effects were achieved with the help of the second drug: its use reduced TEWL by 20% and increased the moisture content of the stratum corneum by 10%.

Topical application of a mixture of physiological lipids of the stratum corneum and semi-synthetic ceramide 3 also proved effective, especially in the case of various dermatoses (contact dermatitis (CD), allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) or atopic dermatitis (AD)) - study results (duration 4 or 8 weeks) this was confirmed in 580 patients with one of these pathologies. (http://www.frauleto.ru/articles/ceramidy-i-kozha/)(Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH).

Ceramides, their types and action

Part 2:

The use of a mixture of ceramides in treatment is capable of forming similar structures and can give very good results in restoring the stratum corneum, which has been confirmed experimentally. Using wide- and small-angle X-ray diffraction, it was established that the spatial organization of sphingolipids in the EOP/EOS/NP/NS/AP/hexanoylphytosphingosine/hexanoylsphingosine mixture is similar to that observed in intercellular “cement”. Regular local use of such a mixture will allow the delivery of all the substances necessary to restore the skin barrier “in place”, as was shown in experiments in vivo and in vitro using oil-in-water emulsions containing this mixture of lipids. The study measured TEWL, skin hydration and elasticity and recorded changes associated with the use of a sphingolipid mixture compared to a control emulsion (which did not contain sphingolipids). The results were encouraging: TEWL decreased by 4 units, skin hydration increased by 10 units, and skin elasticity increased by 8%. As a result, the mixture of sphingolipids used not only restored the stratum corneum of the skin and increased its hydration, but also increased the elasticity of the skin. (http://www.frauleto.ru/articles/ceramidy-i-kozha/) (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH)

Ceramide IIIA(N-Linoleoyl – Phytocphingosine) - in addition to its protective barrier properties, inhibits tyrosinase activity in melanocytes. Thanks to this, it brightens the skin well. Ceramide IIIA is commonly used in anti-aging, whitening, eye care, and age spot treatment products (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH).

CeramideIIIB(has the same classification as Ceramide III - Ceramide NP) - prevents skin from damage, prevents moisture evaporation and promotes long-term hydration. Helps protect against UV radiation (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH).

Ceramides types IV and V(have a common name - ceramide AS) - are of synthetic origin, through the formation of amides. They are protective ceramides that prevent transepidermal water loss and improve the protective functions of the skin barrier.

Ceramide type VI(ceramide AP) is a very interesting ceramide, since its structure is similar to the structure of AHA acids. Therefore, he is responsible for normalizing the process of gentle (unlike ANA) desquamation (normalizing the process of skin renewal). Improving skin color, smoothing wrinkles. Strengthens the natural skin barrier (especially with age-related changes and dryness). Restoration of hair structure.
Ceramides isolated from plants. These are the same ceramides, which consist of two components: digalactosyldiglycerides and glycosylceramides. Glycosylceramides are sphingolipids that are involved in regulating the activity of apoptotic enzymes (protein kinase, phosphatase and protease). Digalactosylceramides are amphiphilic molecules that promote fibronectin synthesis. Fibonectin is responsible for skin elasticity and integrity. All plant ceramides, in addition to their direct action, also have all the properties of the plant from which the ceramide is extracted.
Ceramides isolated from wheat is a combination of two important components for the treatment and prevention of skin diseases. Such ceramides are enriched with essential fatty acids that are needed for skin healing. As you know, if there is a lack of linoleic acid, the body will replace it with oleic acid, which leads to a breakdown of the skin barrier. Moreover, if you remember the proportions of 3 parts of ceramides: 1 part of cholesterol (phytosterols): 1 part of essential fatty acids, then when using wheat ceramides, you will only need to add 1 part of cholesterol (phytosterols), since unsaturated fatty acids themselves You already have ceramide in the complex. Action - healing and restoration of the skin barrier, increasing skin elasticity and firmness. Saturation of the body with essential fatty acids.
Ceramides derived from rice oil(rice ceramides) – help improve skin elasticity, prevent water loss, strengthen the skin barrier. And thanks to its parent (rice oil), it protects against UV radiation and promotes skin whitening.

Based on the information collected and the qualities of ceramides, I created a table where you can understand which ceramides are responsible for what and which ceramides are best combined to solve a particular problem.

As can be seen from the table and according to the test data (see above), ceramides, like peptides, are preferably combined for more effective work and quick results. As a rule, all ceramides work with very small %% input. If ceramides are combined, then to obtain an effect, it will be enough to introduce the minimum concentration of each ceramide.

Synergistic combinations for ceramide production:
1) Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives have been found to effectively increase the synthesis of epidermal ceramides and therefore improve skin barrier function, moisture and appearance. A synergistic effect was found when using ascorbic acid in combination with its esters. This combination particularly promotes the formation of AP and AN ceramides (ceramides 6 and 7).
2) Another compound that increases ceramide content in the skin is ursolic acid. This plant-derived triterpenoid has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties in laboratory animals. When tested in vitro in cultured normal human keratinocytes, ursolic acid caused an increase in two components at once - ceramide and collagen. In clinical testing, ursolic acid increased skin ceramide levels over an 11-day period.
3) The third active that promotes the production of ceramides is niacinamide (vitamin B3). Its effect on ceramide content was tested both in cell cultures and locally. Niacinamide has been shown to significantly increase levels of glucosylceramides and sphingomyelin, and increases the activity of serine palmitoyltransferase, which is a rate-limiting enzyme in sphingolipid synthesis. Niacinamide also increases the synthesis of free fatty acids and cholesterol. Overall, this vitamin improves the skin permeability barrier by stimulating ceramide synthesis and regulating serine palmitoyltransferase. (Nava Dayan, Ph.D. Lipo Chimcals Inc., Paterson, N.J., USA)
4) Sphingosine has pronounced antimicrobial properties; they are very good to include in formulations for the treatment of any skin lesions (from acne to age-related changes).

Compiled by ONLINE STORE Magical Ariya

When it comes to choosing beauty products to keep your skin looking youthful and healthy, it's easy to get fooled and spend money on a cream that isn't worth it. The information space is teeming with information about anti-aging ingredients, but these substances do not always act as we would like.

In this article we will talk about a component that is really necessary when caring for aging skin. We'll talk about ceramides.

What it is

Ceramides are the largest group of unique waxy lipids found in the stratum corneum of the skin. The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of "dead" fibrous protein cells tightly sealed in a lipid matrix. In turn, the matrix is ​​an alternation of lipid layers, between which there is an aqueous layer (bilayers). This arrangement of the upper layer of skin is the main obstacle to the penetration of external substances.

Skin cells, whose life path is known to move from the basement membrane to the stratum corneum, contain special organelles for the production of lipids, as well as enzymes that are capable of modifying these lipids. At the end of the life cycle, the cell is “flattened” and the lipid component, together with enzymes, is poured into the intercellular space. During their interaction, ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol are formed, which are necessary for the construction of bilayers.

All this can be compared to a tiny ecosystem, the balance of which is easily upset. For example, “wash out” cholesterol and fatty acids with aggressive cleansers, or damage the stratum corneum with the aesthetic procedure of chemical peels, or even shift the pH of the skin to alkaline, and then skin lipids, in particular ceramides, will not be able to form correctly and the skin will become less protected. But even with the best care, the production of ceramides decreases with age, which ultimately leads to dermatoses, dryness and accelerated aging.

How it works

There are at least 9 different types of ceramides in our skin, and each of them has a different role. In general, “short” ceramides provide “stiffness” to the skin, while “long” ceramides provide its elasticity. The right balance gives us the perfect facial contour. But ceramides are not only the main structuring element, they are also regulators of cellular processes, for example, they can accelerate the reproduction and development of new cells, the death of “defective” cells, and even influence the synthesis of new collagen.

Ceramides penetrate easily because they are skin-identical molecules. It has been proven that ceramides applied to the surface of the skin can move in the upper layers of the epidermis. There is a huge research base proving that ceramides are really effective in maintaining skin health, Japanese scientists have especially tried, proving that ceramides not only restore the damaged barrier, but also protect the stratum corneum from potential attacks by surfactants.

At the same time, other studies emerged that suddenly showed that ceramides were no better at protecting the skin than petroleum jelly. In particular, a mixture “mimicking” the barrier and consisting of ceramide-3, palmitic and oleic acid and cholesterol was tested on volunteers. When compared with regular occlusive petroleum jelly cream, the results were almost identical.

After these conflicting results, scientists redoubled their efforts and eventually discovered that it was the ratio of the ingredients that mattered. A “formula for success” was developed. It turned out that for cosmetics the best ratio of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids is 1:1:1 or 3:1:1. When we talk about creams “with ceramides,” it usually means a mixture with fatty acids and cholesterol/lecithin in the “correct” ratio.

Creams use only a few types of ceramides, and not all 9, mainly ceramides 1 and 3 (retain moisture inside the skin and reduce irritation), less often you can find additional ceramides 4, 5 and 6 (mainly in specialized products for the treatment of psoriasis or eczema).

Today on labels you can see not only ceramides (Ceramide 3, Ceramide 1), but also phytoceramides (Phytoceramide), pseudoceramides (Cetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide), etc. This creates some confusion, but in reality everything is not so complicated.

  • Phytoceramides are obtained from yeast and completely replicate the structure of the “native” human ceramide.
  • Pseudoceramides - have properties similar to ceramide, but a different structure. These are patented substances from the brand’s laboratories; they are similar in characteristics and are an almost ideal replacement for natural ceramides.
  • Synthetic ceramides are a completely lab-synthesized version of natural ceramide.

By the way, almost all ceramides used in cosmetics are synthetic. Natural ceramides in plants are present in very low concentrations, so such raw materials are too expensive. And since our body does not see the difference (if ceramide has the correct structure), then there is no point in overpaying.

So if you want to add ceramide products to your routine, start with cheap products that may contain only one ceramide, and if you like the effect, move on to more expensive ones and continue the process until you find what suits you.

Tatiana Morrison

Photo istockphoto.com

Ceramides are lipids (fats), one of the main components of the hydrolipidic layer of the skin. It serves as a natural shield:

  1. 1

    protects against unfavorable environment in all its manifestations;

  2. 2

    helps retain moisture, which means keeping the skin healthy, hydrated, elastic, firm, smooth.

As soon as the protective barrier weakens (there are many reasons for this, from biological aging to stress), the quality of the skin deteriorates. Possible consequences:

“The main lipids of the stratum corneum include ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Their balanced ratio is fundamentally important to ensure the structural integrity and barrier properties of the stratum corneum,” says Natalia Medvedeva, dermatologist, medical expert CeraVe.

The CeraVe brand, which produces products aimed primarily at restoring the epidermal barrier, uses ceramides 1, 3 and 6, supplemented with cholesterol - another lipid “building block” that makes up the protective mantle of the skin.

Application of ceramides in cosmetics

Dryness and increased sensitivity are the main signs of skin that needs special care aimed at restoring and strengthening the protective layer.

Ceramides are responsible for the barrier functions of the skin © iStock

The CeraVe brand has created a whole line of moisturizers aimed specifically at such skin. In addition to the lipid component, the formula included:

    hydraulic clamps glycerin and hyaluronic acid;

    phytosphingosine- lipid regulator and precursor for the formation of ceramides.

Patented MVE technology provides continuous hydration throughout the day and restores the function of the lipid barrier. The products do not clog pores. CeraVe products are fragrance-free.

The use of cosmetics with ceramides provides the greatest effect in restoring the hydrolipid barrier of the skin,” says Natalia Medvedeva, dermatologist, medical expert at CeraVe.

Review of products with ceramides



    Moisturizing cream for dry and very dry skin of the face and body With a rich but non-greasy formula, it aims to provide long-lasting hydration and restore the lipid barrier.

    Moisturizing lotion for dry and very dry skin of the face and body It has a very light texture and the ability to moisturize the skin for 24 hours.

    Moisturizing lotion for dry and normal skin- the combination of ceramides is supplemented with niacinamide and vitamin E (alpha tocopherol). There is a product option with SPF protection.


Ceramides are natural components of the skin that fill the intercellular space of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Their quantity directly affects the processes of division, growth and aging of its cells. Together with fatty acids and cholesterol, they form a lipid barrier layer that prevents the loss of water in skin cells and, accordingly, prevents it from becoming dry and tight due to lack of moisture.

What are ceramides (ceramides)?

Ceramides are unique molecules that play a very important role in the proper functioning of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, and specifically in the proper functioning of the hydrolipid barrier. These components have a liquid crystal structure and are responsible for retaining water in skin cells, thus determining the appropriate level of hydration. They:

  • Form a protective layer on the skin that prevents moisture loss.
  • Strengthens the skin's ability to absorb moisture.
  • Act as a natural protection against pollution and microorganisms.

Why is it necessary to nourish your skin with ceramides?

All the properties and mechanisms of functioning of ceramides have not yet been discovered, but researchers are absolutely confident that they are essential compounds directly responsible for good skin condition. With their deficiency, the skin becomes dry, begins to peel, ages faster, and wrinkles become more pronounced.

Over time, their number may decrease, so it is necessary to use cosmetics, in particular creams and masks, which contain these substances.

Additional skin nutrition with ceramides leads to:

  • Moisturizing and smoothing it.
  • Increased protection against external factors.
  • Reduced water loss and sufficient hydration.
  • Maintaining the proper level of elasticity, due to which the skin ages later and wrinkles form much longer.
  • Accelerate skin regeneration processes.
  • Reconstruction of the lipid barrier.

Why do hair need ceramides?

As in the case of skin, ceramides are also a natural binding component that fills the intercellular space of the hair, or rather its shell. Their presence affects the degree of moisture and elasticity of the hair and, accordingly, its condition and appearance.

The studies carried out confirmed the theses of scientists who found that ceramides have significant sensitivity to external factors and their quantity can decrease under their influence. This applies to a number of cosmetic procedures:

  • Coloring.
  • Lightening.
  • Frequent styling using special cosmetics.
  • The air is too dry.
  • High temperatures.
  • Excessive exposure to UV radiation.

Modern advances in cosmetology have made it possible to find a way to replenish the supply of ceramides in the hair, making it possible to solve the problem of their shortage.

Using hair cosmetics containing these components, you can restore smoothness and shine to your hair, reduce porosity and make it stronger and less susceptible to mechanical damage and the negative influence of external factors.

What does ceramide deficiency lead to?

Ceramide deficiency occurs mainly for the following reasons:

  • Harmful effects of external factors: dry air, UV radiation, high temperatures.
  • Age-related changes in the body.
  • Stress.
  • Incorrect care.

Due to these factors, both minor skin problems and pathological changes can occur.

Ceramides are important elements that create a protective hydrolipidic barrier. Its violation leads to loss of moisture, the skin becomes dry, flabby, and loses elasticity. The visual effect of this process is expressed as follows:

  • Wrinkles appear or existing ones become more pronounced.
  • The skin begins to peel off, becomes rough and rough.

However, damage to the hydrolipid barrier due to ceramide deficiency can lead to more serious consequences. The skin loses its immunity, becomes more susceptible to external factors and is more susceptible to microorganisms and the development of inflammation.

For hair, a lack of ceramides leads to no less sad consequences: it loses its elasticity and shine, becomes dull, brittle, and unkempt.

The situation can be corrected using special tools that contain these components.

Main sources of ceramides

There are two sources from which ceramides can be obtained:

  • Natural, formed as a result of multi-stage extraction of animal material (in this case, the brain or spinal cord is used) or vegetables (for example, soybeans).
  • Synthetic, when ceramides formed synthetically are supplied to the structure of hair and skin. They are a copy of natural ones, but do not have an identical structure, so they are called “pseudoceramides”.

The importance of ceramides in the proper functioning of the lipid layer of the skin and hair is undeniable. It should be remembered that their number is not fixed and depends on many factors, including weather conditions.

Their deficiency leads to many problems, so it is important to use cosmetics that are rich in ceramides and are able to restore their required amount in the hair structure or the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

Using cosmetics with ceramides

The main purpose of using cosmetics with ceramides is to replenish their losses in the lipid layer. Its main element is ceramide 1, which is a compound of sphingosine and linoleic acid. Within three weeks after using such preparations, skin hydration improves by an average of 60-70%, which significantly affects its appearance and condition.

The use of such cosmetics is primarily recommended for owners of dry, dehydrated skin that shows obvious signs of aging. It is also ideal for the care of sensitive and dull skin, as ceramides are an extremely valuable resource that creates a lipid layer that protects it from harmful factors and maintains the required level of moisture in the epidermis.

Ceramides are also found in hair care cosmetics and are used in professional hair care procedures. To improve the condition of your hair and prevent it, use shampoos, conditioners and masks that contain this component. It is responsible for the elasticity and strength of hair.