What should be the face cream. Restoring balm Deep Repair, Teoxane. Cream "Vivifying moisturizing" from Garnier from the series "Nutrition and hydration"

Nobody wants to grow old, especially women. Alas, aging is still inevitable, and first of all it manifests itself on the face. The skin of the face and neck is the object of unremitting attention of women. For them, their appearance is almost the main basis of normal health and mood. Therefore, it is women who are the main consumers of a huge variety of creams, lotions, tonics, masks and other products intended for skin care.
It would seem that it is women who should understand the properties of these products in about the same way as men understand, for example, the structure and operation of cars. However, this impression is misleading. If men cannot be fooled by the chaff in the automobile issue, then the situation is different with women in matters of cosmetology and cosmetic products.

Creams must act, "work". How and which face cream to choose so that it really gives the skin something positive? The whole truth about cosmetics and creams - that's what we'll talk about in this article.

Women, as a rule, give preference to this or that remedy, focusing in their choice only on external signs that are completely insignificant: "I like its smell ..."; "He is very gentle ..."; "... it is so absorbed!" Affects the choice of women and the charm of packaging - a box, a jar, a bottle ... Well, if the seller also adds a small gift to the purchase, this only reinforces the confidence in the “correct choice”.

In addition, advertising is not asleep, forming the charm of a product that has not yet been purchased, already at the stage of contemplating a television picture. At the same time, advertising is desperately intriguing on the verge of bluff, using phrases that are tricky for most consumers, promising too much and forming clearly overestimated expectations: “coenzyme Q10 is your skin's youthfulness” ...

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How many people understand that aging is irreversible and it can only be slowed down, while the actual rejuvenation is impossible in principle? How many people know that coenzyme Q10 is already contained in every cell of the human body - which is young, which is aging? Finally, how many people look at the list of ingredients for creams and notice that the “novelty” thrown onto the market is, more often than not, the same cream that was before?

Women and the classification of creams are extremely inaccurate. Only a few know what “skin nourishment” means and why the cream is called “nourishing”. The vast majority are confused about the difference between nourishing and moisturizing creams. “Moisturizing and nutrition are not the same thing?” Some of them ask, probably having read in other advertising opuses that “water nourishes cells”.

What are moisturizers in general, what is the difference between them and how do they moisturize the skin? What is more important, moisturize or nourish the skin? And what is skin toning if the skin does not have such a feature as "tone" itself? Why, finally, creams are "morning" and "evening", "day" and "night"? You can also hear extremely inaccurate, sometimes very funny, answers to all these and similar questions.

Positively, accurate knowledge and general ideas about cosmetic products, about the problems of cosmetics, about its achievements, difficulties and methods of seduction, working for the commercial success of the manufacturer and the seller, will not interfere with anyone.

"REGULAR" CREAM

What is a “regular” cream, which usually contains a fairly large amount of ingredients? What do you need to know about them in order to adequately assess the potential of the purchased funds?

An "ordinary" cream is, first of all, an emulsion, i.e. vegetable oil in water, - thoroughly mixed until smooth. The uniform distribution of oil particles in an aqueous medium ensures good absorption into the skin, including the oil component, which, during normal application, penetrates the skin extremely reluctantly. Emulsification in today's production is set to a high technological level, so modern creams are absorbed almost equally successfully. How the cream is absorbed is not the main advantage of a modern cream. Another technological method - water in oil - gives an "inverse emulsion" when water particles are enclosed in an oil medium, and the absorption of such a cream is significantly reduced, which is used in the production of massage creams.

Be that as it may, but it is in the emulsion base of the cream - as in a solvent or carrier - that all its other ingredients are contained. Despite their impressive number, it is not difficult to navigate in them, if you divide all this set into three large groups.

The main one is a group of active ingredients, the very active principle, which should improve the internal state of the skin and, as a result, its appearance. In the arsenal of modern cosmetology, there are quite a few active ingredients of natural origin that can provide a serious help to the condition of the skin. We note right away that this "help" would have to come exclusively from the inside through the system of blood vessels in conditions of sufficient and adequate nutrition of a person, his physical activity and the possibility of full recovery during the period of night sleep.
An attempt to bring something useful from the outside into the skin is an order of magnitude lower in its effectiveness: the skin is not adapted to the massive and, in general, unnatural flow of nutrients from the outside to the inside, no matter how wonderful and valuable they are. This is one of the most difficult problems in cosmetology: overcoming the skin permeability barrier, which prevents the full penetration of nutrients into the thickness of the cell layers.

However, at the very least, this problem is solved due to finely dispersed emulsification and, as some manufacturers say, due to a decrease in the molecular weight of the ingredients, as a result of which a significant amount of them is not only absorbed into the superficial keratinized layer of the skin, but also penetrates quite deeply, reaching the level of the capillary vascular network, which lies much lower than the bulk of the cell layers of the skin.
In the best world manufacturers, this amount is expressed as a number from 10 to 30%, therefore, it should be borne in mind that the remaining 70-90% of the cream's ingredients are evenly distributed over the overlying cell layers and do not have a decisive effect on the condition of the skin. That is why any cream, even the most remarkable in its composition, does not act immediately, but requires systematic application for some, sometimes quite long time.

What does modern cosmetology use as active ingredients?

These are mainly plant extracts, essential and vegetable oils. The most effective formulations contain all this variety in the form of two to five items for each item. It is in this case that the most multifaceted effect on the metabolism in the skin is provided, which can be called "complex".

Its essence lies in the fact that it is in this combination of components that the cream introduces into the skin not only plastic materials (unsaturated fatty acids, amino acids, etc.), from which the structures of cellular and intracellular membranes are built and restored, but also those regulators of functions (vitamins, flavonoids, glycosides, terpenes, coumarins, trace elements, and many others), which activate the metabolism in cells and blood flow in the capillary bed to the necessary degree so that all this plastic wealth was really assimilated. This is the actual nutrition of the skin. This term cannot have any other meaning, and therefore, the more varied the composition of the active ingredients of the cream, the more this cream is precisely nutritious for skin cells.

Otherwise, a nourishing cream not rich in active ingredients will, of course, have a positive effect, but in most cases it will be clearly insufficient in relation to the real needs of the skin. Thus, fears that a "strong" cream can damage the skin are, in turn, greatly exaggerated. The concentration of the active principles of the cosmetic cream is clearly below the level from which the cream acquires the character of a medicinal, medicinal product, the use of which requires caution and precise instructions from the doctor.

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In addition, when using a large number of active ingredients, product developers always take into account the effect of synergy - the mutual reinforcement of their properties in the case of simultaneous exposure - which makes it possible to further reduce the concentration of each active ingredient.

It is much more dangerous to use a cream depleted in its composition (one or two herbal ingredients), which, nevertheless, somehow has an almost instant effect, smoothing out wrinkles on the face.

To normalize the functions of the skin and normalize the processes of restoring its structures, time is needed - from a couple of weeks to several months, depending on the initial state of the consumer's body. It is clear that a depleted set of active ingredients is not able to ensure the deployment of positive events literally before our eyes. This "focus" is provided by a completely different action - the action of ingredients of artificial origin, and below we will talk about this in more detail.

Undoubtedly, when choosing cosmetic products, you should give preference to a cream "rich" in natural ingredients. But not only this criterion is important. It is important not to flatter yourself with elements of advertising mythology or, say, the overseas origin of the herbs it contains. The exotic sounds of the words witch hazel, ginkgo biloba, etc. in itself does not yet mean that these plants have any special properties that are no longer inherent in any other plant substrate.

For example, gingko biloba of Chinese origin is deservedly appreciated for its pronounced positive effect on the state of capillary circulation. But the same effect can be achieved by the presence of other ingredients in the cream - essential oils, for example, and even more so by combining them with synergistic ingredients. That is, a cream containing our native chamomile, milk thistle, mint, clover and alfalfa may turn out to be no less serious in its beneficial effect on the skin than an imported guest performer on our domestic market.

But back to the "regular" cream. What else does it consist of, what else does it contain? Alas, all the most positive and valuable has already been considered and now it remains to highlight what neither the developers of cosmetic products, nor its sellers like to talk about. We will talk about the next group of ingredients that have nothing to do with natural, beneficial, and which are added to the cream, so to speak, due to technological necessity. These are mainly numerous emulsifiers, stabilizers, thickeners, preservatives, colorants and aromatic fragrances.

So, emulsifiers are designed to ensure the ease and quality of the emulsification process, because oil and water are not friendly substances and by themselves do not mix at all. Simple mechanical stirring is not very suitable for the formation of a high quality emulsion. The emulsion, as the base of the cream, should also be homogeneous (homogeneous) and with a very small size of emulsion particles - the finer the better. Otherwise, the cream will be poorly absorbed, and in this case, you can not even talk about its deep penetration into the skin.

There is one more complication. The cream must be stable in its physicochemical properties, and the emulsion particles tend to break down over time, which leads to the fact that the emulsion stratifies (water remains at the bottom, oil on top), ceasing to be the actual emulsion. This process is counteracted in the aggregate by emulsifiers, stabilizers, and preservatives. By the way, the longer the shelf life of a product, for example, from 1 to 2 years or more, the more it contains ingredients of this kind.

Numerous ingredients of the "usual" cream of technological sense are, unfortunately, substances of artificial "petrochemical" origin and are completely alien to the biochemistry of skin cells. In fact, these are xenobiotics - this is the name for substances that cannot be utilized usefully by living organisms. Xenobiotics do not always belong to the category of poisons, but their systematic intake into the body still negatively affects the detoxifying (disinfecting) function of drainage systems, which remove everything unnecessary to the body into the external environment.

The situation is similar to the case with food products made according to "high technologies" and containing technological additives marked on the packaging with the "E" index (the same emulsifiers, preservatives, dyes, flavorings, leavening agents). It is extremely difficult to prove their direct harm to the body, however, from the point of view of dietetics, it is undoubted that their systematic use, and even more so the predominance in the diet, will not lead to good, and, therefore, it is extremely undesirable. There are plenty of examples of the negative impact of such nutrition on the health of both children and adults. Unfortunately, "high technologies" imply only a high level of production work for a profit and nothing more.

How to distinguish "technological" ingredients of creams from natural active principles? According to the name, of course: even if a person is very far from chemistry, the "chemical" sound of the term (the name of the chemical formula) is always distinguishable from the botanical names of plant extracts and oils.

It is also necessary to take into account the order of listing the ingredients in the declaration on the package: they are given in descending order. For example, if water comes first, followed by a long list of chemical terms (propylene glycol, methylparaben, butyl carbamate, sodium benzoate, etc.), and only then finally one or two botanical names are listed, followed by “ some kind of chemistry "... Or, even worse, one botanical name is the last in the total row, which means its microscopic content in the total volume of the cream ...

What can such a cream give, often insistently advertised as a "natural product" for tired, aging skin? The illusion of caring, the ghost of leaving, and "virtual" eating are cheating, in a word. By the way, if the declaration of ingredients on the packaging is not given at all, then what can you generally say about such a product? It can only be noted that the manufacturer did this by no means out of forgetfulness.

The dignity of the cream is to a large extent determined by the nature of the emulsion base itself, that is, from what oil is used as a carrier-solvent for all other ingredients. This is the third most important component of any cream. It is very good if this vegetable oil - olive, jojoba, almond, sesame, - which at the same time serves as a nutritive component of the cream.

However, many manufacturers often use mineral oil, in other words, technical engine oil, albeit of the highest purity. This product of the oil refining industry is completely alien to the biochemistry of living tissues and the only argument in favor of its use in the production of creams is its cheapness, a decrease in the cost of the product, and an increase in profits.

Cosmetic firms and companies, by the way, do not independently process oil. There are several large oil refiners in the world, producing "cosmetic petrochemistry", from which, relatively inexpensively, all this "goodness" is purchased. On this basis, evil tongues call the products of almost all world cosmetics "cosmetics from one pot," meaning that the overwhelming majority of it contains the same technological ingredients, the standard set of which wanders from cream to cream, practically without being exposed to any significant changes.

The consumer, full of faith and hope, sometimes pays a considerable price for the purchased product, but at the same time, alas, he generously overpays, because he receives, in terms of the volume of the package, only a few grams of plant materials, which in their pure form cost much less. Basically, fascinated by advertising mythology, he buys a relatively cheap and unnecessary "petrochemistry" for his skin - "with a good smell ...", "so delicate ...", "perfectly absorbed ...", paying for "high technologies" of the production process, packaging design, company name, brand prestige, etc.

Therefore, when buying a nutritious cream, it is important to proceed exclusively and only from rational selection criteria, realizing how and how a "regular" cream can give its usual nutritious effect. Everything else is from the evil one.

SPECIALIZED CREAM

It is not for nothing that the nourishing cream is considered as "normal", since the main task of cosmetology is to ensure that the skin is sufficiently nourished. The production of creams since ancient times began as the production of, first of all, nutritional formulations. However, it is not only the nutrition of the skin that occupies the cosmetology of today. There are two more important stages of skin care - cleansing and moisturizing.

Cleansing, moisturizing and nourishing are three main stages, "three pillars" of complete skin care. But not only. Cleansing, moisturizing and nourishing are the three mandatory financial costs for consumers of cosmetic products. Can a cream combine the properties of, for example, a moisturizer and a nourishing agent at the same time? Maybe a good "regular" cream, as a rule, is just that. But, despite the manufacturer's enthusiasm for the “two-in-one” seduction technique, it is still more profitable for him to increase the number of items required for acquisition (hydration and nutrition - separately!), So their list tends to expand.

According to advertising mythology, "serious" skin care today is its cleansing, moisturizing, nourishing, toning and protection. As you can see, there are more large "whales", especially since there are also smaller ones in the structure of the classification tree of cosmetics - means for peeling, lifting, depigmentation, geroprotection and many others.

Of course, there is a certain meaning and scientific justification, the introduction of each of these stages has. But there are also very rough "rough edges" here. For example, the two additional stages invented and put into use - "toning" and "protecting" the skin - are a purely commercial invention, forcing women to buy now not three positions of cosmetic products, but at least five. The unabashed advertising funded by manufacturers, as always, relies on sheer ignorance.

Naturally, not everyone knows that such a characteristic as "tone" is inherent only in excitable and contractible tissues, i.e. nervous and muscular system. The concept of "tone" reflects, in this case, the fact that even in a state of complete relaxation and rest, the nerve and muscle tissue in some minimal way continue to perform their main function, i.e. the muscles are somewhat contracted, the nerve cells are somewhat excited. This term is not applicable to any other tissues in the strict sense of the word, therefore “skin tone” is physiological nonsense!

If we discard fantasies, then histology (the science of tissues) distinguishes the following properties of the skin: turgor (elastic filling, tissue tension; depends on the amount of water in the deep cell layers); moisture (depends on the amount of moisture on the skin surface); elasticity (the ability to take the previous shape after deforming influences; determined by the state of the elastic elastic fibers of the skin); mechanical strength or tensile strength (determined by the state of the inextensible collagen fibers of the skin); texture (the state of the skin microrelief, which determines the roughness or smoothness and velvety to the touch); color, color (determined by the state of the capillary bed and pigment metabolism).

We can go on and point out some more not so important properties of the skin, but it is important to emphasize that the science of skin does not distinguish such a property as "tone". He is not inherent in her. As for the "tonics" themselves, it is easy to conclude from the declarations of the ingredients on the packaging that they cannot create any "tone" of the skin: these are, as a rule, nutritional compositions.

The same applies to such a stage of skin care as "protection". Normal skin - not sick, not aging prematurely - has the following protective functions: protection from mechanical damage; protection against infectious factors; protection against immunological agents; protection from solar radiation; drying out protection; protection against temperature factors.

The skin, receiving sufficient and adequate nutrition, not only protects the internal environment of the body, but is always self-protected, and fully. How else can it be in a living system adapted to life in the environment? An attempt to protect the skin with some kind of external "shield" from the outside is not so much a consequence of gross ignorance or misunderstanding of physiology and histology, but of a desperate desire to make money out of human ignorance, a desire to shift emphasis and divert attention from the causes, focusing people's efforts on non-radical actions at the level of consequences. It's profitable! For this, in fact, modern myths are created, starting from the level of household consumption and ending with the level of politics.

But back to the main "whales". Why, after all, "hydration and nutrition are certainly separate"?

In beauty salons you can often hear something like: “You have very dry skin! You definitely need moisturizers! " The replica itself is unremarkable, if not for the fact that, from this moment onwards, both the woman and the cosmetologist-diagnostician will proceed precisely from the attitude that “I (she) has dry skin” , - for life!

Therefore, moisturizers must be used constantly. True, the cosmetologist knows that moisturizing (hydration) creams only normalize the surface moisture of the skin, and, at best, only 1.5-2 hours after application, and cannot normalize the skin's own water exchange. Sometimes the beautician even tells his client about it. But in any case, both are convinced: nutrition - nutrition, and hydration - separately!
What about trying to correct the condition of the skin, change its status? After all, once a woman's skin was not dry, she only became such from some point in her life. Usually women feel: this is the beginning of aging, even if the word itself is not very appropriate due to age. In addition, women know: wrinkles begin to form quickly on such skin ... There is something to worry about!

What does this superficial dryness depend on, with such an unpleasant feeling of tightness of the skin and its peeling? Why is there little water on the surface of the skin, and how does the cream increase its content? Isn't it possible to moisturize the skin not with a cream, but just with water?

With water - you can't! Even if you wet the skin for hours, the water will simply saturate the superficial keratinized (non-living) layer of the epidermis, which will then dry out and dry skin will remain dry. The skin is hydrated only due to the presence of moisture-retaining factors, which ensure the constant presence of a certain amount of moisture on its surface. The number of substances related to surface water-retaining factors is quite large, but cosmetology attaches the main importance to unsaturated fatty acids, which form the thinnest lipid film on the surface of the skin - a fatty film of a special nature, which has nothing to do with sebum from the secretion of the sebaceous glands.

Epidermal lipids, as they are also called, are an important part of the skin's protective mantle. It is they who most essentially organize and "structure" water as part of a complex compound, not allowing it to evaporate. Normally, the moisture content of the skin reaches 20%. With a deficiency in the production of unsaturated fatty acids by the skin, the moisture content decreases, sometimes up to 10%, which corresponds to the pronounced dryness of the skin.

This deficiency can be compensated for by using a natural substrate such as vegetable oils. They also contain unsaturated fatty acids, which in some vegetable oils are almost identical to human ones (jojoba, avocado, nutmeg, etc.). Once on the surface of the skin, vegetable oils restore the surface lipid layer and provide sufficient moisture retention. Unfortunately, for a very short time.

External hydration is a symptomatic action that does not affect the causal basis of events, which is rooted much deeper, at the level of the basal cells of the epidermis. It is the daughter derivatives of basal cells, moving from the depths (from the level of the basement membrane) to the surface of the skin, that they go through the stages of their maturation, during which they produce the required amount of unsaturated fatty acids. Reaching the upper layers of the epidermis, these cells are destroyed and release onto the skin surface, among other things (in particular, full-fledged keratin, which protects the skin and gives it protective functions), and unsaturated fatty acids.

Well, what if something is “wrong” with the basal cells, and their daughter cells do not fully mature?

Here, in fact, there is something for the consumer of cosmetic products to think about. Dry skin is a symptom of malnutrition of basal cells, resulting in a defect in the lipid film of the epidermis and a deficiency in surface water retention. In this case, the use of natural hydratants (moisturizers) - vegetable oils - is completely justified and necessary, including for the prevention of dryness.

But: using only hydrating creams keeps the cause of the phenomenon unaffected, and the dryness will persist, constantly returning to the previous figures of moisture deficiency!

There is an intimate, at first glance, hierarchical relationship between nourishing the skin and its hydration: a skin that is adequately nourished is always sufficiently hydrated, therefore, in case of dry skin, an emphasis should be placed on the use of effective nourishing creams.

An experiment was carried out at the Moscow Institute of Beauty: a group of women with severe dry skin (moisture deficit 10%) for 30 days, twice a day, applied rich nourishing creams. As a result, skin moisture was steadily normalized to 20%. Now, of course, a moisturizing cream will not hurt such a skin, but something else is important - it becomes unnecessary, in particular also because any sufficiently serious nourishing cream already contains such a trophic and at the same time moisturizing ingredient like vegetable oils. "Two in one" is originally present in a normal "regular" cream!

Attention is drawn to the timing of normalization of nutrition and skin hydration - 30 days! Science knows exactly the minimum period: it is equal to one lunar month, 28 days. It is this time that is needed for the rehabilitated daughter cells of the basal layer to reach the surface of the skin, transforming its appearance. Depending on the "degree of abnormality" of the initial state of the organism, this process can take 40, 60 or even more days.
The declarative reduction of these terms, when the mass consumer is already accustomed to the "ease" and "speed" of rejuvenation (weight loss, recovery, etc.) - up to several days, up to one day, to an instant effect with smoothing of wrinkles, is the most important moment in advertising charm and seduction of women. This unnatural effect is provided, respectively, by unnatural means. All the same "petrochemistry".

For example, mineral oil, liquid paraffin, glycerin, propylene glycol, etc., when applied to the skin, are capable of capturing moisture from the surrounding atmosphere and, in addition, pulling it from the underlying cell layers, which instantly creates an oil-water film on the skin surface. Dead cells on the surface of the epidermis swell, and the skin microrelief is smoothed at the same time. Wrinkles, especially fine ones, "disappear" literally before our eyes!

It is hardly possible to say unequivocally that it is very harmful (violation of gas and water exchange of the skin), the skin can withstand such "tricks". However, it is safe to say that this is not useful. In particular, because the long-term systematic use of such funds masks the true state of affairs: aging and wilting continue, for residents of megalopolises - at an accelerated pace. However, now the woman does not see this, hence the "makeup withdrawal syndrome" so frightening for women, when, after the cessation of its use, a "sheer nightmare" is found on the face. It was not cosmetics that "ruined the face", it was just that the woman was aging in her own way, going through stage by stage, thinking that she successfully counteracts the passage of time and preserves the beauty of youth ...

Advertising is the engine of trade and the ingenuity of modern myth-makers is truly inexhaustible. What, for example, are the mysterious statements about creams that "act at the cellular level." Or at the "molecular level". Or, finally, "on the cellular-molecular." A vague image of something very unusual, significant and serious is created in the mind of the consumer. In fact, this true statement is absolutely true for any cream that generally has any effect on the skin.

For reference: nutritional formulations have a positive effect not only on the skin tissue as a whole, but, above all, on each cell of the treated skin area separately. Therefore, they "act at the cellular level." They supply plastic materials and substances that regulate cell function. All this nutritional wealth is assimilated in each cell at the level of biochemistry of the recognition receptors of cell membranes and normalizes the very nature of the course of biochemical processes in the cell. This is the “same” cellular-molecular level. What else?

Only, of course, there is nothing mysterious or unusual here. The food that a person consumes at dinner affects the whole organism only through assimilation at the cellular-molecular level. And it is a pity that, unlike food, the positive effects of creams are limited to this, the lowest level, without spreading their influence on the level of the whole organism.

Equally vague and vague are the perceptions of consumers of cosmetic products about the nature of "morning" and "evening", "day" and "night" creams. Ordinary ideas, formed by the myth launched into the mass consciousness, are reduced, basically, to the opinion about the "special wholesomeness" of such compounds at the specified time of day and the "inadmissibility" of their use at any other time that does not correspond to its name. By default, it is assumed that cosmetology has learned the secret of the radical difference between "morning skin biochemistry" and "evening skin biochemistry", as well as "daytime" from "nighttime".
There is, of course, no secret. Medicine, for example, successfully uses the same drugs day and night. The classification of cosmetics according to the time of day has a completely different origin. Once in cosmetology, it was believed that dry skin was determined by a deficiency in sebum production, and creams with a high content of animal fats were used to correct this unpleasant condition. Such oily creams - they were also called "heavy" - were poorly absorbed, determined the greasy shine of the skin and, of course, were recommended for use in the evening and at night ("nourishing" mask). Creams that do not contain saturated animal fats - "light" creams - automatically fell into the category of used in the morning and afternoon. Hence the name!
What, today, when animal fats are not used in cosmetics at all and creams are perfectly absorbed, determines the existence of these outdated names? Partly a tradition. And at the same time - a purely commercial necessity to expand the number of "obligatory" positions for "competent" skin care! It is surprising that the creams "spring" and "summer", "autumn" and "winter" have not yet been thrown into use, especially since the talks about the different use of cosmetics in different seasons have long been underway, and at the level of well-grounded practical recommendations.

But perhaps most tragically, women are deceived by advertisements in their empty promises of getting rid of wrinkles! The arsenal of "anti-wrinkle creams", "anti-wrinkle creams" is truly enormous. Here and creams with collagen and elastin, here and liposome creams, here, finally, and unnatural hydration, which gives an instant effect of smoothing wrinkles. Alas, once a wrinkle has arisen, it will not disappear, the only thing that is possible is to suspend the rate of its deepening and increase in length due to the normalization of skin nutrition, both from the outside and, necessarily, from the inside.

Collagen and elastin of animal origin, foreign to the human body, have absolutely nothing to do with it, their nutritional value for the skin is zero. Great hopes were pinned on liposomes - microscopic spheres that carry nutritious ingredients in their internal volume: it was believed that the cell would easily pass the liposome through its membrane and receive everything of value that is contained in the cream directly inside, thus, the effectiveness of the nutritional effect would be increased to unprecedented heights. And again a fiasco: the cell “does not want” to absorb liposomes, their lipid membrane is incompatible with the lipoprotein cell membrane, and the process of pinocytosis (capture of the nutrient vesicle by the cell) simply does not go on.

It was also found that liposomes are unstable during storage of the cream and remain in the jar for only a month from the date of manufacture. This drawback was further corrected by the concept and technology of microencapsulation, when they learned to make phospholipid capsules that are compatible with the cell membrane and not subject to self-destruction after filling in packages.

Microencapsulated gels are the pride and beauty of modern cosmetology, its most promising direction. As for the liposome concept, it continues to fool people and secure its market niche. But, as usual, not without deception: the current creams with nanosomes, microsomes, nanospheres, polysomes ... are other names for the same failed liposome creams that cost much more than a regular cream.
The reader can easily continue the list of myths. They should be regarded precisely as commercial myths - nothing more. The use of a good "regular" cream, in combination with adequate skin cleansing and auxiliary symptomatic moisturizing, remains the "alpha" and "omega" of facial skin care.

But, is it possible at all to maintain youth and beauty "on a separate area of ​​the skin"?

Experts of the German Institute of Consumers on the pages of their magazine "Test" once wrote about creams from well-known world manufacturers. It is enough to quote the headlines of the articles: "Deceived hopes", "Dreams from a beautiful jar" ... Cosmetologists are right a thousand times, not tired of repeating the banal truth about the importance of work and rest, physical activity and fresh air for maintaining beauty! That is, we are talking, nevertheless, about the dominant importance of general health improvement, only against the background of which, cosmetic products are truly effective. How can this be achieved? This is a vast and complex topic that deserves a separate discussion.

Review article of the Health and Beauty website: "".

What is the best nourishing face cream

Each woman has her own special appearance and therefore cannot be compared with other representatives of the fairer sex. But they all have one thing in common - it is taking care of your body. All of them want to look beautiful and well-groomed, it is by the face, neck and hands that you can understand how a girl treats herself, find out the approximate age and even her state of health.

How to choose the best face cream that would nourish the skin, moisturize it, fill it with vitamins and hyaluronic acid.

For many years, women have been trying to fight skin aging as effectively as possible. We offer you the best face creams in terms of composition:

Bioretin Hot new! Cream with botox effect. Smoothes any age-related changes.

LIFTENSYN

Hot new! Stops aging at the cellular level.
Biorecin Time-tested! Visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Thrift The natural complex eliminates age-related changes without botox injections.
NanoBotox The microemulsion will smooth deep expression lines in 14 days.

Which face cream is the best according to reviews

When choosing the best face cream, the fair sex first of all pay attention to the smell, appearance, consistency of the product, as well as to the colorful packaging. But one should not assume that if the cream is often advertised, then its quality will be at its best.

If you choose the right cream for the face, then you can easily preserve the beauty and youthfulness of your appearance. Face cream should be selected based on your age category.

Various creams for smoothing wrinkles are divided into several groups:

  • Preventive - such creams effectively protect the skin from the harmful effects of the environment, as well as moisturize and nourish it well.
Best face cream 40 years old according to reviews
  • Made on the basis of fruit acids - help to cleanse and function properly collagen.
  • Containing retinol - stimulates the fastest cell regeneration.

How to choose a face cream depending on your skin type
Today, there are a large number of different types of cream, that when you start choosing the right one, you can simply get confused.

First of all, you should determine for which type of skin you should choose a product, this will greatly facilitate the tasks when choosing the necessary cream. How to choose a face cream depending on your skin type.

According to surveys, we made a list of which face cream, according to reviews, is the best:

For dry skin
  • Dry skin - in this case, you should pay attention to a face cream that contains vitamins A and C, as well as jojoba oil. It perfectly moisturizes and nourishes the skin with beneficial enzymes.

As you know, dry skin ages faster, therefore, using the right products, this process can be significantly slowed down, for this you need to choose the right cosmetics, in this case it is perfect - for dry skin.

With goji berries
  • Combination skin - in this case, choosing a cream becomes a little more difficult, since some areas of the skin are dry and others are oily. For this, special products were invented that have both nourishing properties and at the same time are able to dry out the skin.

In this case, a rejuvenation cream - for combination skin, is the best remedy.

Creams after 40 years
  • Sensitive skin - in this case, you need to be especially careful when choosing a cream. Often peeling or even slight inflammation appears on such skin. The face cream should have a moisturizing and protective effect, it should always be applied when going outside, especially if there is a strong wind or snow.
  • Normal skin type - it is considered the rarest, as the skin looks firm, soft, with a natural color. Cosmetologists advise using creams with moisturizing ingredients for this type at a younger age, and with age, choose those that contain collagens.

What other face creams are the best and most useful

Young girls should choose the best face cream, given that it should contain a large amount of B and C vitamins. Such a cream moisturizes and tones the skin well, thereby preventing premature aging, and a girl can count on her for a long time she will be able to look young and natural.

Women closer to forty years old need to turn their attention not to water-based creams, but to those that contain vegetable oils, as well as various fruit acids. A botox face mask can help slow skin aging.

How does day and night face cream work?

Many of the fair sex may have a question whether the night and day cream differ in their composition. We can say for sure that yes and significantly, so it is advisable not to confuse them when using.

The day cream contains a reduced concentration of substances, since it is designed to protect the skin of the face from external factors such as dust, bad weather conditions, the influence of sunlight. It is good to use such a cream as a base for further makeup application.

The night cream nourishes the skin well during rest and sleep in a relaxed state. The skin is saturated with various microelements as much as possible at night. After the cream is applied to the face, you should rest on your back so that all substances can be evenly distributed and absorbed into the skin. The skin tired for the day regains its appearance, and the woman wakes up with a fresh and rested face.

Modern companies for the production of cosmetics offer their customers a huge selection of a wide variety of creams. It is difficult to immediately figure out which one is right for you and will perform its functions better. Let's take a look at a list of the most popular and effective creams from a shopper's point of view.

Best moisturizers

Our skin needs moisturizing all the time. Moisture is essential for the normal functioning of the dermis. In addition, moisture maintains the skin's natural beauty and youthfulness. Let's see which ones are considered the highest quality and most popular for moisturizing:

  • Let's start with an inexpensive cream called Ideal Skin from the Russian manufacturer Chistaya Liniya. This product contains many vitamins and ingredients that are designed to restore water balance. They eliminate flaking of the face, make the skin attractive and healthy. In addition, this cream also has protective functions. A big plus can be called the democratic price of this cream - from 123 rubles.
  • Garnier's Vital Moisture line will provide hydration for all skin subtypes with personalized care. Creams of this series contain plant extracts, mannose and glycerin. Their particles are able to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and maintain a normal level of moisture for a long time. The cost of these funds starts at 180 rubles.
  • A daytime moisturizer from the famous brand Nivea is perfect for use under make-up. It regulates the moisture content of the skin, provides the vitamins required for healthy skin and softens it. In addition, the cream prolongs the youthfulness of the skin, thanks to its special composition, smoothes small wrinkles and heals minor skin damage as a result of external influences. The cost of this tool is approximately 276 rubles.

  • The next cream on our list is called Plantain and Coltsfoot. This cream is used to moisturize normal skin and is among the best. The development of this cream belongs to the Green Mama company. It belongs to the category of two-phase funds. Regular use of this cream allows you to forget about dry skin, help to restore its healthy appearance and restore elasticity. Such a cream costs from 280 rubles.

The best nourishing creams

High-quality skin care is not complete without a good nourishing cream. Here is a small list of popular tools in this area:

  • A fairly budgetary product from Nivea called Nourishing Cream is quite effective and copes with its direct function no worse than its expensive competitors. Its main advantage is the softness of the impact. This cream can be used even on very sensitive skin. It almost never causes signs of irritation. The cost of such a cream is 170 rubles.

  • The next in our rating is Aevit Nourishing Cream manufactured by LibreDerm. This cream can also be attributed to the budget line. In addition to the nourishing function, this cream makes the skin softer, gives tone, and eliminates small wrinkles. Already after the first application of this cream, you will notice an improvement. The cost is about 200 rubles.
  • The cream developed by La Roche-Posay is called Hydraphase, and in addition to its nutritional function, it retains moisture for a long time. Does not clog pores and allows the skin to breathe, eliminates the signs of allergies and flaking, makes the skin softer and toned. Its approximate cost is about 1350 rubles.
  • L'Occitane's Ultra Rich Face cream nourishes the skin well, has a softening effect and retains moisture in its deep layers. In addition, it has other useful functions - heals micro damage, fights flaking. Its approximate cost is 2500 rubles.

  • A nourishing cream called Multi-Hydratante from Clarins is quite expensive - about 3200 rubles. But this amount is fully justified by the high efficiency of the tool. This cream contains highly effective ingredients that not only nourish the skin, but also fight its imperfections and restore youth.

The best creams for problem skin

Owners of imperfect facial skin know from their own experience how difficult it is to find a good cream. Such a tool should not only moisturize or nourish the skin, but also fight rosacea, enlarged pores and blackheads.

Here are some creams that can handle this difficult task:

  • Artistry cream from the American company Amway. This remedy works on the top layer of the skin. It makes skin cells renew faster. This cream is ideal for skin with minor problems - it fights acne, blackheads and pimples. Also, the cream perfectly removes various inflammations and the effects of allergies. It has protective properties, so regular use will provide your skin with reliable protection. The cost of the cream starts at 1100 rubles.
  • DSM's Mon Platin cream is about half the price. It contains almost the entire spectrum of vitamins necessary for the skin. This allows you to strengthen the immune system of the skin, normalize metabolic processes, eliminate minor inflammation and irritation. In addition to vitamins, this product contains other useful substances. Thanks to this composition, the cream perfectly copes with skin dehydration, regenerates it, soothes and softens it.

  • Another good remedy is Normaderm cream from Vichy. This cream is ideal for young skin prone to acne. It removes shine, blackheads, redness, tightens pores. This cream has a very light consistency, thanks to which it does not clog pores, but rather cleans and tightens them. After using this cream, the skin has an even tone, becomes smoother, firmer and more toned. This cream, even in hot weather, is able to get rid of oily sheen for a long time.

The best anti-aging creams

Unfortunately, the years have spared no one. But this does not mean that you need to humbly come to terms with old age. On the contrary, modern creams allow you to eliminate manifestations and preserve the youthfulness of our skin for a longer time.

The most effective are:

  • Prescriptives Intensive Rebuilding Cream perfectly reduces expression lines. In just a few applications, you will notice how the length and depth of the facial folds have decreased. This cream can be used on any skin type, it does not give an oily sheen.
  • Lancome's cream Resolution D-Contraxol is also one of the most effective. It acts on the skin in its deep layers and perfectly removes signs of aging.
  • Olay Total Effect Anti-Aging cream is suitable for menopausal women. It does a great job with several signs of aging skin. In addition, this cream moisturizes the skin well in its deep layers, improves color and smoothes the skin surface.

  • The long-lasting effect, which has been noted by many customers, is possessed by the Anti-Aging Transforming Care cream manufactured by Garnier. It contains a whole list of effective ingredients that can successfully fight the signs of skin aging. Among other things, it also deeply moisturizes the skin, saturates it with useful substances and vitamins.

  • Nuxellence Jeunesse cream from Nuxe is perfect for rejuvenation. It contains extracts and extracts of medicinal plants. This allows collagen bonds to be rebuilt within the skin and stimulates production.

  • For women after forty years old, a cream from the Payot company called AOX Complete Rejuvenating Care is suitable. It copes well with the manifestations of aging - it is able to eliminate deep wrinkles, tighten the oval of the face, and reduce the intensity of pigmentation. It fills cells with energy and removes free radicals.

  • In last place is a cream from Avon called Anti-Aging Care Plus. This cream is one of the complex products, it accelerates the production of its own collagen, and also helps to restore the protection of the skin. This cream can be used for women who have already crossed the age limit of 45 years.

Face cream is an important element in caring for the health and beauty of your skin. But in order for a cosmetic to have the most beneficial effect on the skin, you need to carefully prepare for the buying process. What should be considered when choosing the right cosmetic product, what kind of creams are there, and what are the main ingredients in their composition? Important question - ?

The main criterion for choosing a quality face cream is its full compliance with a woman's skin type.

The choice of cream by skin type

Specialists distinguish 4 types of skin: dry and oily skin, normal and combination skin. And now in more detail about each of these types.

Most women dream about this type of skin, and this is not surprising. This type of skin is healthy and firm. In addition, normal skin is devoid of oily sheen and such problematic enlarged pores, wrinkles and any signs of aging appear late. How can you tell if you have this type of skin? Very simple. If your skin has an even color, accepts water procedures with ordinary toilet soap well and does not feel tightness, if an unpleasant oily sheen does not appear on the skin throughout the day, then congratulations - you have normal skin.

For such skin, it will be enough to choose the right cosmetic care product, especially a face cream.

For normal skin, moisturizing day creams and nourishing nighttime products with a light texture are suitable. For mature age, you can use creams with additional collagen substances, the action of which is aimed at eliminating various kinds of wrinkles (age, expression).

One of the problematic skin types that requires special care throughout the day. A distinctive feature is the presence of excessive oily sheen, enlarged pores with the so-called. "Black dots", susceptibility to frequent inflammation and acne. However, with all the disadvantages, this type of skin still has an undoubted advantage - it is not prone to the rapid appearance of wrinkles. Timely daily care and a well-chosen cream for your face will help preserve youthfulness and attractiveness of the skin already in adulthood. For oily skin, experts advise choosing a cream on a light gel base with an additional content of natural ingredients and extracts that will help remove oily sheen, relieve inflammation, and provide a mild matting effect.

The most sensitive and demanding skin type. It is often exposed to external negative influences, which ultimately leads to rapid aging and the appearance of small and large wrinkles. Dry skin has a beautiful matte color, smooth and very delicate to the touch. Often due to lack of moisture, such skin is prone to flaking, tightness and discomfort. With age, dry skin will lose its natural elasticity and firmness, which means that thorough care must begin at the age of 25. To maintain an attractive appearance, women with dry skin should choose face creams with a moisturizing and soothing effect. The most correct choice would be cosmetics containing hyaluronic acid - to retain moisture; collagen - to maintain firmness and elasticity, as well as prevent the appearance of wrinkles; vitamins and natural oils to maintain youthfulness and beauty of the skin.

The type of skin that most women have. A distinctive feature of such leather is excessive shine in the so-called. zone T (forehead + nose + chin). Other areas of the skin on the face are normal. Combination skin requires double care, separate for each zone. When choosing a face cream, you should give preference to a cosmetic product that contains natural extracts that have a pronounced anti-inflammatory and soothing effect - for the T-zone, as well as a cream with a moisturizing effect - for normal areas.

Age categories

At choosing a face cream you should take into account not only the type of skin, but also your age category. Women of different ages with different skin types must choose the right care. If your skin is in good condition and looks fresh, then you shouldn't overload it with unnecessary cosmetics. You should not use active biological components and coenzymes during this period. You can use light creams, as well as apply nourishing masks to your face. But if it is already noticeable that the skin has lost its freshness and elasticity, more wrinkles have appeared, then it is necessary to start using a cream developed specifically for mature skin.

Representatives of the age category 20-25 years old may give preference to creams with a light consistency, tonics or milk for cleansing and additional moisturizing. Owners of problem skin should additionally take care of means to eliminate oily sheen and solve problems with blackheads.

Representatives of the age category 25-35 years old can afford a choice of creams with vitamins and special substances with antioxidant properties. Such funds will provide the skin with the necessary elasticity, prevent the early appearance of wrinkles, improve the overall tone and blood circulation of the upper layer of the epidermis. Women with dry skin should choose a cream containing hyaluronic acid for additional hydration.

Representatives in the 35-45 age category can provide timely care for their skin by choosing creams that contain collagen and vitamin E, which are responsible for elasticity, even skin tone and elimination of existing wrinkles.

Women 45+ in the fight against skin aging should pay more attention to special creams containing liposomal substances designed to provide protection against negative external factors, as well as deep smoothing of wrinkles.

The composition of the face cream

Before you go shopping for a cream in any cosmetic store, you should decide what kind of skin care is required - moisturizing or nourishing. All face creams are conventionally divided into two groups: nourishing and moisturizing.

Moisturizing face creams are used to moisturize (excessively dry and tight) or to retain natural moisture. Quality creams should have a moisturizing effect and also have a lighter texture. As a rule, they are used exclusively in the summer season.

Nourishing face creams are characterized by a fairly dense consistency, allowing the skin to saturate with important nutrients. Such products are suitable for use in the cold winter season. They are able to provide daily reliable protection to the skin.

At choosing a face cream it is important to familiarize yourself with the composition of the cosmetic product. So, most creams have a standard set of ingredients.

Mineral salts

Salts of exclusively natural origin in the composition of creams are designed to correct the natural PH of the skin (acid-base balance).

Natural extracts and essential oils

As a rule, most manufacturers use natural extracts for the manufacture of cosmetics: from chamomile, calendula, cucumber, St. John's wort, aloe, avocado, peach; essential oils - sesame, pumpkin, peanut, almond, lavender, olive, etc. These components improve blood circulation in tissue cells, improve the external condition of the skin, participate in the processes of regeneration and restoration of the epidermis. In addition, they provide the skin with such important energy and nutrition. It is not for nothing that essential oils are included not only in creams, but also.

Vitamins

For creams, a wide list of all possible vitamin components is used to protect the skin from harmful effects and irritating factors.

Preservatives

Preservatives are special substances that are used to increase the shelf life of a cream. Preservatives protect cosmetics from the effects of pathogenic bacteria and the development of adverse processes.

Perfume

Fragrances are used to remove unpleasant odors in the production of cosmetics.

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers are used to create a uniform consistency in creams in order to avoid delamination or excess fluid release.

Dyes

Dyes are often intended for coloring ready-made creams in different colors (olive, peach, apricot, etc.), but most natural creams have a white or transparent base. In order to avoid the manifestation of allergies, it is better to choose a cream with a neutral color and a minimum content of dyes.

Times of Day

At choosing a face cream be sure to pay attention to what time of day it is intended for. It also matters a lot!

Day creams are lightweight for quick absorption. Day cream allows you to provide complete protection of the skin from harmful factors (ultraviolet radiation, wind, rain, snow, cold), preserve the natural moisture level in the epidermis, and also use it as a necessary base for decorative cosmetics.

Night creams have a denser and more oily structure, designed to provide regenerative processes in the skin. Experts advise women aged 35+ to choose night face creams, applying them a few hours before bedtime.

When choosing a cream, you should remember that different areas of the skin on the face require different care. For proper care of the delicate and sensitive skin around the eyes, it is better to choose a special cream with a light structure and a special composition (it may contain special lymphatic drainage components). Such creams can be day - moisturizing and protective, as well as night - nourishing.

This rule also applies to the selection of lip skin care creams.

Information on the label

At choosing a face cream it is important to pay close attention to its appearance, namely the packaging and the label. There are different containers - jars, bottles and tubes. It is better to take cream from a jar with a spatula (wooden / plastic) intended for this, but it is more practical to use cream from a tube, for this it is enough to gently squeeze out the required portion of the product.

If the packaging is just an original design solution, but the label from the manufacturer is what will allow you to protect yourself from possible counterfeiting. The label must contain the following data:

  • manufacturer's name, contact details and address;
  • the name of the cosmetic product and its purpose;
  • composition;
  • manufacturer's country barcode;
  • quality mark (certification data);
  • production date and shelf life;
  • volume

Testing

Before buy face cream, it is necessary not only to inspect, but also to test. When purchasing a cream in specialized stores, you should clarify whether there are necessary samples for the product you like. For testing, just apply a small drop of cream to the inside of your wrist. The testing time is 15 minutes, if at the end of the testing no allergic or other reactions have appeared on the skin, this means that such a cosmetic product is quite suitable for you for further use. Otherwise, you should refuse to buy a cream.

Armed with the helpful tips outlined in our material on how, we are confident that you will make the right choice. Enjoy the shopping!

Nobody wants to grow old, especially women. Alas, aging is still inevitable, and first of all it manifests itself on the face. The skin of the face and neck is the object of unremitting attention of women. For them, their appearance is almost the main basis of normal health and mood. Therefore, it is women who are the main consumers of a huge variety of creams, lotions, tonics, masks and other products intended for skin care.

It would seem that it is women who should understand the properties of these products in about the same way as men understand, for example, the structure and operation of cars. However, this impression is misleading. If men cannot be fooled by the chaff in the automobile issue, then the situation is different with women in matters of cosmetology and cosmetic products.

Creams must act, "work". How and which face cream to choose so that it really gives the skin something positive? The whole truth about cosmetics and creams - that's what we'll talk about in this article.

Women, as a rule, give preference to this or that remedy, focusing in their choice only on external signs that are completely insignificant: "I like its smell ..."; "He is very gentle ..."; "... it is so absorbed!" Affects the choice of women and the charm of packaging - a box, a jar, a bottle ... Well, if the seller also adds a small gift to the purchase, this only reinforces the confidence in the “correct choice”.

In addition, advertising is not asleep, forming the charm of a product that has not yet been purchased, already at the stage of contemplating a television picture. At the same time, advertising is desperately intriguing on the verge of bluff, using phrases that are tricky for most consumers, promising too much and forming clearly overestimated expectations: “coenzyme Q10 is your skin's youthfulness” ...

How many people understand that aging is irreversible and it can only be slowed down, while the actual rejuvenation is impossible in principle? How many people know that coenzyme Q10 is already contained in every cell of the human body - which is young, which is aging? Finally, how many people look at the list of ingredients for creams and notice that the “novelty” thrown onto the market is, more often than not, the same cream that was before?

Women and the classification of creams are extremely inaccurate. Only a few know what “skin nourishment” means and why the cream is called “nourishing”. The vast majority are confused about the difference between nourishing and moisturizing creams. “Moisturizing and nutrition are not the same thing?” Some of them ask, probably having read in other advertising opuses that “water nourishes cells”.

What are moisturizers in general, what is the difference between them and how do they moisturize the skin? What is more important, moisturize or nourish the skin? And what is skin toning if the skin does not have such a feature as "tone" itself? Why, finally, creams are "morning" and "evening", "day" and "night"? You can also hear extremely inaccurate, sometimes very funny, answers to all these and similar questions.

Positively, accurate knowledge and general ideas about cosmetic products, about the problems of cosmetics, about its achievements, difficulties and methods of seduction, working for the commercial success of the manufacturer and the seller, will not interfere with anyone.

"REGULAR" CREAM

What is a “regular” cream, which usually contains a fairly large amount of ingredients? What do you need to know about them in order to adequately assess the potential of the purchased funds?

An "ordinary" cream is, first of all, an emulsion, i.e. vegetable oil in water, - thoroughly mixed until smooth. The uniform distribution of oil particles in an aqueous medium ensures good absorption into the skin, including the oil component, which, during normal application, penetrates the skin extremely reluctantly. Emulsification in today's production is set to a high technological level, so modern creams are absorbed almost equally successfully. How the cream is absorbed is not the main advantage of a modern cream. Another technological method - water in oil - gives an "inverse emulsion" when water particles are enclosed in an oil medium, and the absorption of such a cream is significantly reduced, which is used in the production of massage creams.

Be that as it may, but it is in the emulsion base of the cream - as in a solvent or carrier - that all its other ingredients are contained. Despite their impressive number, it is not difficult to navigate in them, if you divide all this set into three large groups.

The main one is a group of active ingredients, the very active principle, which should improve the internal state of the skin and, as a result, its appearance. In the arsenal of modern cosmetology, there are quite a few active ingredients of natural origin that can provide a serious help to the condition of the skin. We note right away that this "help" would have to come exclusively from the inside through the system of blood vessels in conditions of sufficient and adequate nutrition of a person, his physical activity and the possibility of full recovery during the period of night sleep.

An attempt to bring something useful from the outside into the skin is an order of magnitude lower in its effectiveness: the skin is not adapted to the massive and, in general, unnatural flow of nutrients from the outside to the inside, no matter how wonderful and valuable they are. This is one of the most difficult problems in cosmetology: overcoming the skin permeability barrier, which prevents the full penetration of nutrients into the thickness of the cell layers.

However, at the very least, this problem is solved due to finely dispersed emulsification and, as some manufacturers say, due to a decrease in the molecular weight of the ingredients, as a result of which a significant amount of them is not only absorbed into the superficial keratinized layer of the skin, but also penetrates quite deeply, reaching the level of the capillary vascular network, which lies much lower than the bulk of the cell layers of the skin.

In the best world manufacturers, this amount is expressed as a number from 10 to 30%, therefore, it should be borne in mind that the remaining 70-90% of the cream's ingredients are evenly distributed over the overlying cell layers and do not have a decisive effect on the condition of the skin. That is why any cream, even the most remarkable in its composition, does not act immediately, but requires systematic application for some, sometimes quite long time.

What does modern cosmetology use as active ingredients?

These are mainly plant extracts, essential and vegetable oils. The most effective formulations contain all this variety in the form of two to five items for each item. It is in this case that the most multifaceted effect on the metabolism in the skin is provided, which can be called "complex".

Its essence lies in the fact that it is in this combination of components that the cream introduces into the skin not only plastic materials (unsaturated fatty acids, amino acids, etc.), from which the structures of cellular and intracellular membranes are built and restored, but also those regulators of functions (vitamins, flavonoids, glycosides, terpenes, coumarins, trace elements, and many others), which activate the metabolism in cells and blood flow in the capillary bed to the necessary degree so that all this plastic wealth was really assimilated. This is the actual nutrition of the skin. This term cannot have any other meaning, and therefore, the more varied the composition of the active ingredients of the cream, the more this cream is precisely nutritious for skin cells.

Otherwise, a nourishing cream not rich in active ingredients will, of course, have a positive effect, but in most cases it will be clearly insufficient in relation to the real needs of the skin. Thus, fears that a "strong" cream can damage the skin are, in turn, greatly exaggerated. The concentration of the active principles of the cosmetic cream is clearly below the level from which the cream acquires the character of a medicinal, medicinal product, the use of which requires caution and precise instructions from the doctor.

In addition, when using a large number of active ingredients, product developers always take into account the effect of synergy - the mutual reinforcement of their properties in the case of simultaneous exposure - which makes it possible to further reduce the concentration of each active ingredient.

It is much more dangerous to use a cream depleted in its composition (one or two herbal ingredients), which, nevertheless, somehow has an almost instant effect, smoothing out wrinkles on the face.

To normalize the functions of the skin and normalize the processes of restoring its structures, time is needed - from a couple of weeks to several months, depending on the initial state of the consumer's body. It is clear that a depleted set of active ingredients is not able to ensure the deployment of positive events literally before our eyes. This "focus" is provided by a completely different action - the action of ingredients of artificial origin, and below we will talk about this in more detail.

Undoubtedly, when choosing cosmetic products, you should give preference to a cream "rich" in natural ingredients. But not only this criterion is important. It is important not to flatter yourself with elements of advertising mythology or, say, the overseas origin of the herbs it contains. The exotic sounds of the words witch hazel, ginkgo biloba, etc. in itself does not yet mean that these plants have any special properties that are no longer inherent in any other plant substrate.

For example, gingko biloba of Chinese origin is deservedly appreciated for its pronounced positive effect on the state of capillary circulation. But the same effect can be achieved by the presence of other ingredients in the cream - essential oils, for example, and even more so by combining them with synergistic ingredients. That is, a cream containing our native chamomile, milk thistle, mint, clover and alfalfa may turn out to be no less serious in its beneficial effect on the skin than an imported guest performer on our domestic market.

But back to the "regular" cream. What else does it consist of, what else does it contain? Alas, all the most positive and valuable has already been considered and now it remains to highlight what neither the developers of cosmetic products, nor its sellers like to talk about. We will talk about the next group of ingredients that have nothing to do with natural, beneficial, and which are added to the cream, so to speak, due to technological necessity. These are mainly numerous emulsifiers, stabilizers, thickeners, preservatives, colorants and aromatic fragrances.

So, emulsifiers are designed to ensure the ease and quality of the emulsification process, because oil and water are not friendly substances and by themselves do not mix at all. Simple mechanical stirring is not very suitable for the formation of a high quality emulsion. The emulsion, as the base of the cream, should also be homogeneous (homogeneous) and with a very small size of emulsion particles - the finer the better. Otherwise, the cream will be poorly absorbed, and in this case, you can not even talk about its deep penetration into the skin.

There is one more complication. The cream must be stable in its physicochemical properties, and the emulsion particles tend to break down over time, which leads to the fact that the emulsion stratifies (water remains at the bottom, oil on top), ceasing to be the actual emulsion. This process is counteracted in the aggregate by emulsifiers, stabilizers, and preservatives. By the way, the longer the shelf life of a product, for example, from 1 to 2 years or more, the more it contains ingredients of this kind.

Numerous ingredients of the "usual" cream of technological sense are, unfortunately, substances of artificial "petrochemical" origin and are completely alien to the biochemistry of skin cells. In fact, these are xenobiotics - this is the name for substances that cannot be utilized usefully by living organisms. Xenobiotics do not always belong to the category of poisons, but their systematic intake into the body still negatively affects the detoxifying (disinfecting) function of drainage systems, which remove everything unnecessary to the body into the external environment.

The situation is similar to the case with food products made according to "high technologies" and containing technological additives marked on the packaging with the "E" index (the same emulsifiers, preservatives, dyes, flavorings, leavening agents). It is extremely difficult to prove their direct harm to the body, however, from the point of view of dietetics, it is undoubted that their systematic use, and even more so the predominance in the diet, will not lead to good, and, therefore, it is extremely undesirable. There are plenty of examples of the negative impact of such nutrition on the health of both children and adults. Unfortunately, "high technologies" imply only a high level of production work for a profit and nothing more.

How to distinguish "technological" ingredients of creams from natural active principles? According to the name, of course: even if a person is very far from chemistry, the "chemical" sound of the term (the name of the chemical formula) is always distinguishable from the botanical names of plant extracts and oils.

It is also necessary to take into account the order of listing the ingredients in the declaration on the package: they are given in descending order. For example, if water comes first, followed by a long list of chemical terms (propylene glycol, methylparaben, butyl carbamate, sodium benzoate, etc.), and only then finally one or two botanical names are listed, followed by “ some kind of chemistry "... Or, even worse, one botanical name is the last in the total row, which means its microscopic content in the total volume of the cream ...

What can such a cream give, often insistently advertised as a "natural product" for tired, aging skin? The illusion of caring, the ghost of leaving, and "virtual" eating are cheating, in a word. By the way, if the declaration of ingredients on the packaging is not given at all, then what can you generally say about such a product? It can only be noted that the manufacturer did this by no means out of forgetfulness.

The dignity of the cream is to a large extent determined by the nature of the emulsion base itself, that is, from what oil is used as a carrier-solvent for all other ingredients. This is the third most important component of any cream. It is very good if this vegetable oil - olive, jojoba, almond, sesame, - which at the same time serves as a nutritive component of the cream.

However, many manufacturers often use mineral oil, in other words, technical engine oil, albeit of the highest purity. This product of the oil refining industry is completely alien to the biochemistry of living tissues and the only argument in favor of its use in the production of creams is its cheapness, a decrease in the cost of the product, and an increase in profits.

Cosmetic firms and companies, by the way, do not independently process oil. There are several large oil refiners in the world, producing "cosmetic petrochemistry", from which, relatively inexpensively, all this "goodness" is purchased. On this basis, evil tongues call the products of almost all world cosmetics "cosmetics from one pot," meaning that the overwhelming majority of it contains the same technological ingredients, the standard set of which wanders from cream to cream, practically without being exposed to any significant changes.

The consumer, full of faith and hope, sometimes pays a considerable price for the purchased product, but at the same time, alas, he generously overpays, because he receives, in terms of the volume of the package, only a few grams of plant materials, which in their pure form cost much less. Basically, fascinated by advertising mythology, he buys a relatively cheap and unnecessary "petrochemistry" for his skin - "with a good smell ...", "so delicate ...", "perfectly absorbed ...", paying for "high technologies" of the production process, packaging design, company name, brand prestige, etc.

Therefore, when buying a nutritious cream, it is important to proceed exclusively and only from rational selection criteria, realizing how and how a "regular" cream can give its usual nutritious effect. Everything else is from the evil one. Here microloans on the card urgently - online application

SPECIALIZED CREAM

It is not for nothing that the nourishing cream is considered as "normal", since the main task of cosmetology is to ensure that the skin is sufficiently nourished. The production of creams since ancient times began as the production of, first of all, nutritional formulations. However, it is not only the nutrition of the skin that occupies the cosmetology of today. There are two more important stages of skin care - cleansing and moisturizing.

Cleansing, moisturizing and nourishing are three main stages, "three pillars" of complete skin care. But not only. Cleansing, moisturizing and nourishing are the three mandatory financial costs for consumers of cosmetic products. Can a cream combine the properties of, for example, a moisturizer and a nourishing agent at the same time? Maybe a good "regular" cream, as a rule, is just that. But, despite the manufacturer's enthusiasm for the “two-in-one” seduction technique, it is still more profitable for him to increase the number of items required for acquisition (hydration and nutrition - separately!), So their list tends to expand.

According to advertising mythology, "serious" skin care today is its cleansing, moisturizing, nourishing, toning and protection. As you can see, there are more large "whales", especially since there are also smaller ones in the structure of the classification tree of cosmetics - means for peeling, lifting, depigmentation, geroprotection and many others.

Of course, there is a certain meaning and scientific justification, the introduction of each of these stages has. But there are also very rough "rough edges" here. For example, the two additional stages invented and put into use - "toning" and "protecting" the skin - are a purely commercial invention, forcing women to buy now not three positions of cosmetic products, but at least five. The unabashed advertising funded by manufacturers, as always, relies on sheer ignorance.

Naturally, not everyone knows that such a characteristic as "tone" is inherent only in excitable and contractible tissues, i.e. nervous and muscular system. The concept of "tone" reflects, in this case, the fact that even in a state of complete relaxation and rest, the nerve and muscle tissue in some minimal way continue to perform their main function, i.e. the muscles are somewhat contracted, the nerve cells are somewhat excited. This term is not applicable to any other tissues in the strict sense of the word, therefore “skin tone” is physiological nonsense!

If we discard fantasies, then histology (the science of tissues) distinguishes the following properties of the skin: turgor (elastic filling, tissue tension; depends on the amount of water in the deep cell layers); moisture (depends on the amount of moisture on the skin surface); elasticity (the ability to take the previous shape after deforming influences; determined by the state of the elastic elastic fibers of the skin); mechanical strength or tensile strength (determined by the state of the inextensible collagen fibers of the skin); texture (the state of the skin microrelief, which determines the roughness or smoothness and velvety to the touch); color, color (determined by the state of the capillary bed and pigment metabolism).

We can go on and point out some more not so important properties of the skin, but it is important to emphasize that the science of skin does not distinguish such a property as "tone". He is not inherent in her. As for the "tonics" themselves, it is easy to conclude from the declarations of the ingredients on the packaging that they cannot create any "tone" of the skin: these are, as a rule, nutritional compositions.

The same applies to such a stage of skin care as "protection". Normal skin - not sick, not aging prematurely - has the following protective functions: protection from mechanical damage; protection against infectious factors; protection against immunological agents; protection from solar radiation; drying out protection; protection against temperature factors.

The skin, receiving sufficient and adequate nutrition, not only protects the internal environment of the body, but is always self-protected, and fully. How else can it be in a living system adapted to life in the environment? An attempt to protect the skin with some kind of external "shield" from the outside is not so much a consequence of gross ignorance or misunderstanding of physiology and histology, but of a desperate desire to make money out of human ignorance, a desire to shift emphasis and divert attention from the causes, focusing people's efforts on non-radical actions at the level of consequences. It's profitable! For this, in fact, modern myths are created, starting from the level of household consumption and ending with the level of politics.

But back to the main "whales". Why, after all, "hydration and nutrition are certainly separate"?

In beauty salons you can often hear something like: “You have very dry skin! You definitely need moisturizers! " The replica itself is unremarkable, if not for the fact that, from this moment onwards, both the woman and the cosmetologist-diagnostician will proceed precisely from the attitude that “I (she) has dry skin” , - for life!

Therefore, moisturizers must be used constantly. True, the cosmetologist knows that moisturizing (hydration) creams only normalize the surface moisture of the skin, and, at best, only 1.5-2 hours after application, and cannot normalize the skin's own water exchange. Sometimes the beautician even tells his client about it. But in any case, both are convinced: nutrition - nutrition, and hydration - separately!

What about trying to correct the condition of the skin, change its status? After all, once a woman's skin was not dry, she only became such from some point in her life. Usually women feel: this is the beginning of aging, even if the word itself is not very appropriate due to age. In addition, women know: wrinkles begin to form quickly on such skin ... There is something to worry about!

What does this superficial dryness depend on, with such an unpleasant feeling of tightness of the skin and its peeling? Why is there little water on the surface of the skin, and how does the cream increase its content? Isn't it possible to moisturize the skin not with a cream, but just with water?

With water - you can't! Even if you wet the skin for hours, the water will simply saturate the superficial keratinized (non-living) layer of the epidermis, which will then dry out and dry skin will remain dry. The skin is hydrated only due to the presence of moisture-retaining factors, which ensure the constant presence of a certain amount of moisture on its surface. The number of substances related to surface water-retaining factors is quite large, but cosmetology attaches the main importance to unsaturated fatty acids, which form the thinnest lipid film on the surface of the skin - a fatty film of a special nature, which has nothing to do with sebum from the secretion of the sebaceous glands.

Epidermal lipids, as they are also called, are an important part of the skin's protective mantle. It is they who most essentially organize and "structure" water as part of a complex compound, not allowing it to evaporate. Normally, the moisture content of the skin reaches 20%. With a deficiency in the production of unsaturated fatty acids by the skin, the moisture content decreases, sometimes up to 10%, which corresponds to the pronounced dryness of the skin.

This deficiency can be compensated for by using a natural substrate such as vegetable oils. They also contain unsaturated fatty acids, which in some vegetable oils are almost identical to human ones (jojoba, avocado, nutmeg, etc.). Once on the surface of the skin, vegetable oils restore the surface lipid layer and provide sufficient moisture retention. Unfortunately, for a very short time.

External hydration is a symptomatic action that does not affect the causal basis of events, which is rooted much deeper, at the level of the basal cells of the epidermis. It is the daughter derivatives of basal cells, moving from the depths (from the level of the basement membrane) to the surface of the skin, that they go through the stages of their maturation, during which they produce the required amount of unsaturated fatty acids. Reaching the upper layers of the epidermis, these cells are destroyed and release onto the skin surface, among other things (in particular, full-fledged keratin, which protects the skin and gives it protective functions), and unsaturated fatty acids.

Well, what if something is “wrong” with the basal cells, and their daughter cells do not fully mature?

Here, in fact, there is something for the consumer of cosmetic products to think about. Dry skin is a symptom of malnutrition of basal cells, resulting in a defect in the lipid film of the epidermis and a deficiency in surface water retention. In this case, the use of natural hydratants (moisturizers) - vegetable oils - is completely justified and necessary, including for the prevention of dryness.

But: using only hydrating creams keeps the cause of the phenomenon unaffected, and dryness will persist, constantly returning to the previous figures of moisture deficiency!

There is an intimate, at first glance, hierarchical relationship between nourishing the skin and its hydration: a skin that is adequately nourished is always sufficiently hydrated, therefore, in case of dry skin, an emphasis should be placed on the use of effective nourishing creams.

An experiment was carried out at the Moscow Institute of Beauty: a group of women with severe dry skin (moisture deficit 10%) for 30 days, twice a day, applied rich nourishing creams. As a result, skin moisture was steadily normalized to 20%. Now, of course, a moisturizing cream will not hurt such a skin, but something else is important - it becomes unnecessary, in particular also because any sufficiently serious nourishing cream already contains such a trophic and at the same time moisturizing ingredient like vegetable oils. "Two in one" is originally present in a normal "regular" cream!

Attention is drawn to the timing of normalization of nutrition and skin hydration - 30 days! Science knows exactly the minimum period: it is equal to one lunar month, 28 days. It is this time that is needed for the rehabilitated daughter cells of the basal layer to reach the surface of the skin, transforming its appearance. Depending on the "degree of abnormality" of the initial state of the organism, this process can take 40, 60 or even more days.

The declarative reduction of these terms, when the mass consumer is already accustomed to the "ease" and "speed" of rejuvenation (weight loss, recovery, etc.) - up to several days, up to one day, to an instant effect with smoothing of wrinkles, is the most important moment in advertising charm and seduction of women. This unnatural effect is provided, respectively, by unnatural means. All the same "petrochemistry".

For example, mineral oil, liquid paraffin, glycerin, propylene glycol, etc., when applied to the skin, are capable of capturing moisture from the surrounding atmosphere and, in addition, pulling it from the underlying cell layers, which instantly creates an oil-water film on the skin surface. Dead cells on the surface of the epidermis swell, and the skin microrelief is smoothed at the same time. Wrinkles, especially fine ones, "disappear" literally before our eyes!

It is hardly possible to say unequivocally that it is very harmful (violation of gas and water exchange of the skin), the skin can withstand such "tricks". However, it is safe to say that this is not useful. In particular, because the long-term systematic use of such funds masks the true state of affairs: aging and wilting continue, for residents of megalopolises - at an accelerated pace. However, now the woman does not see this, hence the "makeup withdrawal syndrome" so frightening for women, when, after the cessation of its use, a "sheer nightmare" is found on the face. It was not cosmetics that "ruined the face", it was just that the woman was aging in her own way, going through stage by stage, thinking that she successfully counteracts the passage of time and preserves the beauty of youth ...

MORE ABOUT ADVERTISING MYTHS

Advertising is the engine of trade and the ingenuity of modern myth-makers is truly inexhaustible. What, for example, are the mysterious statements about creams that "act at the cellular level." Or at the "molecular level". Or, finally, "on the cellular-molecular." A vague image of something very unusual, significant and serious is created in the mind of the consumer. In fact, this true statement is absolutely true for any cream that generally has any effect on the skin.

For reference: nutritional formulations have a positive effect not only on the skin tissue as a whole, but, above all, on each cell of the treated skin area separately. Therefore, they "act at the cellular level." They supply plastic materials and substances that regulate cell function. All this nutritional wealth is assimilated in each cell at the level of biochemistry of the recognition receptors of cell membranes and normalizes the very nature of the course of biochemical processes in the cell. This is the “same” cellular-molecular level. What else?

Only, of course, there is nothing mysterious or unusual here. The food that a person consumes at dinner affects the whole organism only through assimilation at the cellular-molecular level. And it is a pity that, unlike food, the positive effects of creams are limited to this, the lowest level, without spreading their influence on the level of the whole organism.

Equally vague and vague are the perceptions of consumers of cosmetic products about the nature of "morning" and "evening", "day" and "night" creams. Ordinary ideas, formed by the myth launched into the mass consciousness, are reduced, basically, to the opinion about the "special wholesomeness" of such compounds at the specified time of day and the "inadmissibility" of their use at any other time that does not correspond to its name. By default, it is assumed that cosmetology has learned the secret of the radical difference between "morning skin biochemistry" and "evening skin biochemistry", as well as "daytime" from "nighttime".

There is, of course, no secret. Medicine, for example, successfully uses the same drugs day and night. The classification of cosmetics according to the time of day has a completely different origin. Once in cosmetology, it was believed that dry skin was determined by a deficiency in sebum production, and creams with a high content of animal fats were used to correct this unpleasant condition. Such oily creams - they were also called "heavy" - were poorly absorbed, determined the greasy shine of the skin and, of course, were recommended for use in the evening and at night ("nourishing" mask). Creams that do not contain saturated animal fats - "light" creams - automatically fell into the category of used in the morning and afternoon. Hence the name!

What, today, when animal fats are not used in cosmetics at all and creams are perfectly absorbed, determines the existence of these outdated names? Partly a tradition. And at the same time - a purely commercial necessity to expand the number of "obligatory" positions for "competent" skin care! It is surprising that the creams "spring" and "summer", "autumn" and "winter" have not yet been thrown into use, especially since the talks about the different use of cosmetics in different seasons have long been underway, and at the level of well-grounded practical recommendations.

But perhaps most tragically, women are deceived by advertisements in their empty promises of getting rid of wrinkles! The arsenal of "anti-wrinkle creams", "anti-wrinkle creams" is truly enormous. Here and creams with collagen and elastin, here and liposome creams, here, finally, and unnatural hydration, which gives an instant effect of smoothing wrinkles. Alas, once a wrinkle has arisen, it will not disappear, the only thing that is possible is to suspend the rate of its deepening and increase in length due to the normalization of skin nutrition, both from the outside and, necessarily, from the inside.

Collagen and elastin of animal origin, foreign to the human body, have absolutely nothing to do with it, their nutritional value for the skin is zero. Great hopes were pinned on liposomes - microscopic spheres that carry nutritious ingredients in their internal volume: it was believed that the cell would easily pass the liposome through its membrane and receive everything of value that is contained in the cream directly inside, thus, the effectiveness of the nutritional effect would be increased to unprecedented heights. And again a fiasco: the cell “does not want” to absorb liposomes, their lipid membrane is incompatible with the lipoprotein cell membrane, and the process of pinocytosis (capture of the nutrient vesicle by the cell) simply does not go on.

It was also found that liposomes are unstable during storage of the cream and remain in the jar for only a month from the date of manufacture. This drawback was further corrected by the concept and technology of microencapsulation, when they learned to make phospholipid capsules that are compatible with the cell membrane and not subject to self-destruction after filling in packages.

Microencapsulated gels are the pride and beauty of modern cosmetology, its most promising direction. As for the liposome concept, it continues to fool people and secure its market niche. But, as usual, not without deception: the current creams with nanosomes, microsomes, nanospheres, polysomes ... are other names for the same failed liposome creams that cost much more than a regular cream.

The reader can easily continue the list of myths. They should be regarded precisely as commercial myths - nothing more. The use of a good "regular" cream, in combination with adequate skin cleansing and auxiliary symptomatic moisturizing, remains the "alpha" and "omega" of facial skin care.

But, is it possible at all to maintain youth and beauty "on a separate area of ​​the skin"?

Experts of the German Institute of Consumers on the pages of their magazine "Test" once wrote about creams from well-known world manufacturers. It is enough to quote the headlines of the articles: "Deceived hopes", "Dreams from a beautiful jar" ... Cosmetologists are right a thousand times, not tired of repeating the banal truth about the importance of work and rest, physical activity and fresh air for maintaining beauty! That is, we are talking, nevertheless, about the dominant importance of general health improvement, only against the background of which, cosmetic products are truly effective. How can this be achieved? This is a vast and complex topic that deserves a separate discussion.

Original Russian Text © I.M. Dokuchaev, 2001