The history of the development of hairdressing. A brief history of the development of hairdressing for students and professionals

Panchenko O.A.

The development and improvement of the art of hairdressing is closely related to the evolution of human society, an increase in the level of culture. The art of hairdressing combines several basic methods of working with hair: washing, drying, cutting, curling, dyeing, making post-production products - wigs, braids, curls, hairpieces, eyelashes, eyebrows, etc.

The influence of the aesthetic ideal on the appearance of people was felt less noticeably than, for example, styles of art trends, religion, social status. Since the concepts of "kindness", "tenderness", "femininity", "masculinity" are very difficult to convey externally, they can be emphasized by the details of the costume, hairstyle.

At all times, hairdressing has been aimed at decorating the appearance, making it more attractive.

To the question of what a hairstyle is, you can answer this way: it is hair styled using different types of curling or styling, all kinds of haircuts in a certain shape. The hairstyle can be made from natural or artificial hair. In the hairstyle, the trends of the era are most clearly manifested, it reflects national and racial traits, class and estate, social status in society, as well as signs of gender and age. Thanks to the hairstyle, you can emphasize the attractiveness of the face or hide some imperfections. A well-known imprint is imposed on the hairstyle by the personal tastes and individual views of its owner.

Since the art of hairdressing improved against the background of social life, it largely depended on the development of science, industry, culture, and technological processes. The forms of hairstyles that have emerged have changed over time thanks to the use of new special accessories, tools, and cosmetic preparations. XIX-XX centuries brought a lot of new things that influenced the art of hairdressing. Magazines, newspapers, art exhibitions, theatrical premieres, hairdressing and cosmetics contests are becoming promoters of new silhouettes, hairstyles, tools, methods of working with hair.

Each historical era is characterized by its own particular style and fashion. It is by the elements of clothing and its additions, by the hairstyle that today you can determine a person's belonging to a particular historical period. A hairstyle in the distant past not only adorned a person, but was also a sign of a profession, social status, nationality, or even, in special cases, political views. The wigs of British parliamentarians and judges, the braids of the Chinese, the beards of Armenian merchants and the clean-shaven heads of the priests in Ancient Egypt are no longer just fashion elements, they are almost symbols.

In ancient times, in Assyria, Babylon, and Egypt, trained slaves performed many of the types of work that are still used in hairdressing today, such as hair dyeing. At that time, caring for hair and facial hair was associated with the requirements of a religious cult, folk customs and rituals: the Egyptian priests shaved their heads bald, then covering it with a wig, and the Assyrian warriors curled their long beards into intricate rings, which, according to belief, should have bring success in battles. Byzantine fashion required women to hide their hair. They were found only in the form of a mane over the forehead or braids (along the cheeks), sometimes made not of hair, but of small strands of pearls. In the Middle Ages, women adorned their hair with caps and hats, sometimes so high (sometimes a meter high) and cunning that it was difficult to move around in them (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Gothic cap, circa 1400

Only young girls could wear hair parted over the forehead and laid in waves in a small roller over the temples. They fell in beautiful curls over the shoulders, leaving the ears open.

Men's hairstyles did not differ in variety: the hair was cut short, while the costumes were richly decorated with embroidery, borders, precious stones and lace.

An important component of a man's appearance is the presence or absence of a mustache and beard. Medieval hairdressers provided services to city dwellers, uniting in the workshops of bath attendants and barbers. The barbers offered medical services: they put cans, bleed, applied leeches, pulled out teeth - for this reason they called themselves surgeons. Over time, the number of bath attendants and barbers increased; has undergone changes and the nature of their services. In addition to shaving, cutting and styling the hair, the hairdresser also performed massage, made compresses, made wigs, did cosmetic and make-up work, and also did manicure and pedicure.

Some men believe that a beard gives masculinity and solidity, they wear it with pride. Others find facial hair aging and prefer to do without it. But nevertheless, if you have made a decision "for", remember that different forms of beard, mustache, sideburns should be selected individually. Modern youth amazes with the well-groomed beards and the originality of their design. In this they set a positive tone for the generation of their fathers. Youthful beards, although small, are very contoured, and their sizes are literally marked with a thin strip around the mouth and chin. A common trend today is the face of two to three days or even a week of unshaven.

In ancient times, the attitude to the "hair" on the face was different. It was believed that a beard and mustache gave men a more intimidating and warlike look. However, the shaving process was so primitive and painful (they used sharp shells and silicon rocks) that even those who wanted to get rid of the stubble had to put up with it.

In Ancient Egypt, Assyria, Babylon, Judea, devices made of copper and iron began to be used for shaving. Since then, shaving technology has improved, and barber from a severe ordeal gradually began to turn into an art. From primary sources it is known that the ancient Slavs gave shape to a mustache and beard in accordance with class characteristics.

In the Middle Ages in Western Europe, when the shaving technique reached a certain development, the mustache was worn by men of different segments of the population. In the town square, near the cathedral, one could see a dandy dressed in the latest fashion, with an X-shaped mustache.

Rice. 2. Men's fashion in France in the 16th century. Rice. 3. Hairstyle of the times of Louis XIV


Rice. 4. Mustache and beard of the times
Louis XIV. France, XVI century.

Many men wore mustaches and beards, imitating the kings of France: Henry IV of Navarre, Francis I, Louis XIV, Emperor Napoleon III. The Prussian Crown Prince Friedrich Wilhelm and the Russian emperors Alexander III, Nicholas I and Nicholas II also became objects of imitation.

In some countries "barbel" united in special unions.

Women of all times and peoples have tried to get rid of the dark tendrils above the upper lip. In ancient times, the recipes of the Arab doctors of the Egyptian queen Cleopatra were used for this. Some of these ointments and resins are of interest even to modern cosmetologists, who have at their disposal many preparations and devices for hair removal. Nowadays, mainly mechanical and high-temperature hair removal methods are used in cosmetology. Nowadays shaving technologies have been greatly improved. A professional shave guarantees 2 to 3 days stubble-free.


Rice. 5. Beard 1930 Rice. 6. Mustache and beard 1930

In the XVII century. France is becoming a trendsetter in fashions and hairstyles. The baroque style was finally formed, which most fully expresses the tastes of the aristocracy of that time. The hairstyles of this era were completely subordinated to the etiquette of the court and were distinguished by splendor, stiffness, a huge number of decorations and a complex technique of execution.

In Europe, wigs began to come into fashion. They were very diverse - either in the form of curls and rings falling on the face, or in the form of incredibly high hairstyles with numerous decorations - castles, ships, even ponds on which boats sailed (Fig. 7, 8).


In Russia, in the field of fashion, they were guided by France. Many of the salons were owned by French craftsmen. Fashion magazines were subscribed from Paris, where there were even contests for hairdressers. In 1860, Russian craftsmen Agapov and Andreev took first place in the competition, and in the 1888-1890s. Ivan Andreev received a number of awards for hairstyles and an Honorary Diploma of Honored Professor of Hairdressing.

In 1904, in Germany, for the first time, permanent hair was permed.

In the 20s. XX century hairstyles with short hairstyles came into vogue (Fig. 11).

New chemical dyes and hair brighteners are emerging. Hair coloring made it possible to give the hairstyle an additional effect, to revive it.

With the invention of perm, a real revolution in the art of hairdressing took place. This method of curling hair not only competed with success with all other methods, but gradually replaced them.

With the advent of cinema, the art of cinema has greatly influenced the shape of hairstyles. At one time, the hairstyles of the heroines of Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich came into fashion. Many women did their own hairstyles for the beauty symbol of the 30s. "Divine" Greta Garbo (Fig. 12).


The bangs could be multi-tiered, which increased the height of the hairstyle. Hairstyles were without parting, a clear wave was laid over the forehead, while the hair was lifted up from the back of the head. Thin nets to match the hair color were fashionable, which were worn over the head to preserve the hairstyle; older women continued to wear bunched hair, braided their hair in braids, put them in rollers, pinning them with hairpins.

The development and improvement of hairdressing today is largely facilitated by competitive shows of hairstyles, cosmetics, which originate from ancient times. Female beauty contests were held in Ancient Greece. The first competition was dedicated to the festival in honor of the goddess of the earth, Demeter, where skilled hairdressers demonstrated their skills.

In the 50-60s. actress Brigitte Bordeaux introduces new hairstyles - "ponytail" and "Babette" (Fig. 14).

In the second half of the XX century. there is a rapid change in clothing and hairstyle styles. The most popular are classic, sports-business, romantic, folklore styles.


Rice. 15. Haircut 1970

In the early 50s. men's hairstyles did not change often. They continued to wear short haircuts, in which new methods of work were applied - hair thinning (thinning), special thinning razors were used. The hairstyles did not have a strict edging, they wore side and straight partings, bangs.

In 1971 the renowned master Vidal Sessun showed new haircuts, which were carried out only with scissors (Fig. 15).

Hairpieces began to come into fashion, which were attached to the crown, crown, nape, changing the shape of the hairstyles.

In the 70s, punks appeared who protest against society not only with their behavior, clothes, but also their hairstyle. Fashion designers have ennobled the style of punks, creating haircuts "hedgehog", "cascade" (Fig. 16, 17).


1980 - the year of the XXII Moscow Olympics - determined the fashion for the next decade. A sporty style is typical for casual clothes and hairstyles. In sports hairstyles, curled hair is combined with asymmetrical bangs and parting. The short haircut is comfortable and practical. Hair is dyed partially - with "feathers".

The fashion of the 90s takes us back to the silhouettes of the hairstyles of the past decades, there is a retro style. In the center of fashion is the popular bob haircut, which is performed using various methods: graduation, filing and even blunting.

Most often, there are short haircuts in the "small head" style, while the hair is slicked back, thereby revealing the face. Hairdressers-fashion designers have introduced a lot of new things into the “small head” style. The characteristic features of this style are lightweight hair, which shapes the face in a variety of ways. Fashionable hairstyles "hedgehog", having an uneven, as if disheveled volume. Such hairstyles can be of various geometric shapes, depending on the decision of the hairdresser-fashion designer, as well as on the structure of the hair. New methods of perm have appeared. In 1987, the technology for winding the strands in a spiral was developed, developed by the fashion designer Carita.

In the same year, Wilhelm Hüllerband from Vienna proposed an original method of a spiral perm. Instead of bobbins, he uses bamboo sticks, on which the hair is wound in a spiral.


Rice. 18. Youth haircut 1980

Permed perm is used in modern hairstyles, as it gives pomp, lightness and volume to hairstyles. A new way of curling was created in the salon of the outstanding fashion designer-hairdresser Sassun. Needle hairstyles were popular among young people and punks during these years.

Strict straight bangs and light bangs in the form of a fringe and upright strands of hair come into fashion (Fig. 18).

Modern fashion presupposes women's hairstyles in various directions: business, everyday, solemn with decor from brooches, hairpins, etc., but their main task is to show the natural beauty of hair, to emphasize the softness and femininity of the look.

In men's fashion today there is complete freedom - from a shaved nape and temples to long hair of the "square" and "tail" type, however, the business style of a young businessman, the style of courageous calmness and efficiency prevails. Haircuts "express", "traveling salesman", sports haircuts are especially popular (Fig. 19, 20).


Now in the creation of hairstyles, hair extension technologies are used as a new type of comprehension. Another proposal of the new millennium is bouffant. In a mess, combed hair is a whole structure, and the ability to add and remove volume at your discretion allows you to achieve complete harmony of the hairstyle with the facial features.

Every season, fashion confirms that the new is the well-forgotten old.

The main preference is given to "square" of various lengths. There is no longer a "strict" parting line, it is drawn in irregular zigzags or carried out on the side.

Considerable attention is paid to the color scheme of the hair. The following colors are fashionable: golden, ash, blond, copper. Hair tinting has become a kind of art. Soft transitions of tones, play of colors give special charm to hairstyles.

The center of hairdressing art "Dolores" has been created in Moscow, which is named after Dolores Gurgenovna Kondrashova, a leading fashion designer and hairdresser. Wella, well-known both in Germany and abroad, took an active part in the development of the salon. Its salons and enterprises in 114 countries of the world successfully promote the fashion of hairdressing and make-up.

New trends 2000-2001 - light, almost white, matte, gray, reddish, "wild", as if unkempt hair.

And the latest fashion trend in summer 2003 is “African chic”, that is, African braids, dreadlocks (rastas) and hair extensions.

The fashion trend originated in Europe, not in America, as one might expect. Blondes Scandinavians have become loyal fans of African hairstyles over the past decade.

The creation of such hairstyles requires a hairdresser to have specific skills. Weaving braids takes many hours - almost a whole day. Fashion trends in recent years suggest a gradual transition of these hairstyles to the category of luxurious, prestigious and expensive. Made with high quality materials and craftsmanship, they will suit the style of a sophisticated business lady.

African hairstyles are always braided with the addition of foreign materials. Your hair, no matter how thick and long it is, is not enough to braid the required amount of braids of the required thickness. Kanekalon or factory-processed natural hair is used as an additional material. If it is preferable to use natural hair for extension, then braids are often weaved from kanekalon. Firstly, it is 80 times lighter than natural hair: artificial fiber braids do not weigh down the roots. Secondly, it keeps the shape once given to it much better, is very pliable and easy to use. After the braids from kanekalon are braided, it is enough to pour over them with boiling water, and they will remain round and dense for a long time, will not flatten or tangle.

Modern hairstyles require in-depth knowledge of the technology of various cutting methods. In accordance with the direction of fashion, more and more new hairstyle models are being developed. At the same time, the creative imagination and experience of the hairdresser are manifested, which make us irresistible.

“The hairstyle is of such great importance that no matter what gold dress with jewels a woman may wear, whatever she dyes in the world, if she has not tidied up her hair, she cannot be called tidied up ... so for the face, hair serves as its natural adornment ”(Apuleius).

Introduction

industry-specific hairdressing contract

Art can be different, but if it is real, it is always the creation of beauty. You can create masterpieces of painting and sculptural, visible and perceived at the level of sensations. The art of hairdressing combines many elements. His works are a holistic visual image, a "sculptural" composition, and a designer find of the master. At the same time, the art of hairdressing is perhaps the most democratic kind of creativity, because each person can, at his will, directly come into contact with it.

And the masters help us in this, for whom the hairdressing art has become a profession and a whole life. Creating a hairstyle is creating a whole and holistic image of each person.

On the one hand, hairdressing is an exact science that needs to be learned like mathematics. But the hairdresser never cuts the same way. Even if he uses the same technologies of the same haircuts, they turn out differently on different people. It will be good or bad - it depends on the master. In fact, in creating "that very" - the most suitable for a particular person - the image with the help of a hairstyle is not important neither the length, nor the color, nor the structure of the hair. The main thing is that the "correct path" is found.

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The history of the emergence of hairdressing

The origins of hairdressing go back to ancient times. It is known that already 2-3 thousand years before the new era, our ancestors used to decorate their appearance with hairstyles. Centuries passed, gradually a person introduced into the objects he created, including the hairstyle, his idea of ​​beauty, which reflects both his individual taste and the general aesthetic ideal inherent in a particular era. But clothing and hairstyle are also utilitarian and social phenomena. Different peoples have formed their own style and certain traditions associated with the natural conditions of the country and the position of a person in society.

Studying the history of hairdressing is not only of cognitive interest, but also of practical value, since some of the details can be used at the present time. An interesting form of hairstyles was created in Ancient Egypt. To carry it out, the services of specially trained slaves were required. The Egyptians dyed their hair with henna, decorated their hairstyles with decorative elements.

Blond was considered a fashionable hair color in Ancient Greece. In the classical period, the everyday male hairstyle consisted of short-cropped hair, a "full" (that is, from temple to temple) short beard and mustache. Some of the dandies wore long hair, curled in curls and tied in a gold hoop. On solemn occasions, the hair was styled over the forehead in the form of a beautiful bow, the so-called cicada. Greek women wore long hair and knew several types of hairstyles, but the so-called Greek knot - korimbos - can be considered a classic hairstyle. With this hairstyle, long hair was combed in a parted part, curled in waves and lowered quite low on the forehead, since, according to the aesthetic concepts of that time, the forehead should be low (between the eyebrows and hair, the forehead opened only two fingers wide). Further, the hair was lowered along the cheeks, and raised from behind and placed in a knot at the back of the head, fastened with hairpins and narrow ribbons. Often, the hair was put in a net woven of gold cords, or an elegant adornment was put on - Stephanu. The Stefans were of various forms and were always richly decorated.

Men's hairstyles varied from time to time in Roman history. Hair could be curled into curls, and combed smoothly, with bangs over the forehead. Usually the Romans shaved their faces, but small curled beards were also in fashion.

The hairstyles of the Roman patricians were very diverse and complex. In some periods, they wore smoothly combed hair, parted in a straight part: sometimes they curled their hair in long curls, sometimes wore "Greek" hairstyles, but truly Roman were the high hairstyles made of curls fixed on a frame. The fan-shaped frame was reinforced over the forehead and resembled a Russian kokoshnik in shape. Curls were attached to it in neat rows. The rest of the hair, braided into a braid, was laid at the back of the head in the form of a basket. Blond and light brown hair was considered fashionable.

The history of the culture of feudal society is divided into two main periods: the early (IX-XII centuries) and late Middle Ages (XIII-XV centuries). The church is beginning to play a huge role in people's lives, therefore the development of hairdressing depended on the regulation of the church, which sought to pacify "sinful human flesh."

During the early Middle Ages, men's hairstyles were primitive: the hair was cut to the earlobes and bangs in the front. In the XI century, long hair was worn, loose over the shoulders.

Girls wore either long braids or loose hair, tied up around their heads in a hoop, and married women hid their hair under a headdress. Most often, such a dress was a round shawl made of white fabric with a hole for the face. In the 15th century, hats, in particular bonnets, acquired great importance, and the hairstyle, on the contrary, lost its meaning. It was considered fashionable to open the forehead and temples, as well as the back of the head, to show the beauty of a long neck. To do this, the hair above the forehead and the back of the head was shaved.

The Renaissance, or Renaissance, was a milestone in the history of hairdressing. At this time in Italy, men considered fashionable hairstyles of two main types: hair was either combed smoothly back, or wore a hairstyle with bangs. The face was shaved smoothly.

For women, golden hair was considered especially beautiful. A high forehead was considered beautiful. The hairstyle could be very sophisticated and sophisticated. It consisted of combinations of braids, curls, decorated with pearl beads, veils, ribbons. Sometimes young girls wore loose hair.

In Spain, short hair, beards and mustaches were all the rage for men. Spaniards wore a simple and strict hairstyle, most often the so-called bando: hair parted in a parted hair went down along the cheeks, and folded into a chignon at the back. Hair was beautifully cleaned with flowers, hoops, jewelry. In France, the hairstyles showed distinctive features that reflect the tastes of the emerging nation. The last king of the 16th century, Henry IV, had a particular influence on men's hairstyles. Slicked back hair, a curled up mustache and a small pointed beard came into vogue. Since the king began to turn gray early, powder for hair came into vogue, but only whiskey was powdered at that time. In the first half of the 16th century, the hairstyle of women looked like two semicircular rollers, laid over the forehead, and was usually decorated with beads or small, curved hairstyles. a cap with a veil. At the end of the 16th century, the form of a woman's hairstyle changed significantly. There are two types of hairstyle. The hair was either curled in rows of waves and combed back, or lifted high up, where it was secured to a wire frame. Sometimes ladies wore wigs.

The male and female hairstyles of the British were greatly influenced by the outward splendor of Queen Elizabeth's court. The men had their hair cut short, but their costumes were decorated with embroidery, borders, jewels and lace. Women wore elaborate hairstyles, adorned with caps and headbands. Wigs were sometimes worn.

In the 17th century, France became a trendsetter in the field of fashions and hairstyles. The baroque style was finally formed, which most fully expresses the tastes of the aristocracy of that time. Baroque hairstyles were completely subordinated to court etiquette and were distinguished by pomp, primness, a huge number of decorations and complex technique of execution.

At the beginning of the 17th century, men's hairstyles consisted of long hair, loose over the shoulders. The nobles let go of a small beard and a small mustache at the edge of their lips. Later, wigs became fashionable. A lush hairstyle consisted of a mass of long, curled hair, and blond was considered a fashionable hair color. This wig resembled a lion's mane.

Women's hairstyle changed countless times during the second half of the 17th century. From short-term fashionable hairstyles, several types can be distinguished. In the 60s, the hairstyle still retained some naturalness. The hair was parted in a straight part and fluffed over the temples, fastening at the back of the neck, and the curled ends of the hair were pulled down in the form of two long curls over the shoulders. Since the 70s, women's hairstyle began to resemble a man's wig in shape. The curls were laid in rows so high that the hairstyle sometimes rose 50-60 centimeters above the forehead. Sometimes ladies of this time wore a sleek hairstyle with a knot chipped at the back of the head - the so-called knot of humility.

Since the 90s, the fountain hairstyle has come into fashion. It consisted of a combination of curls arranged in rows on the head to secure it, oiled with squirrel, and a wire frame curved into various fantastical shapes, which was adorned with folded gauze, lace, flowers and ribbons. If necessary, the hairstyle was supplemented with artificial hair.

In the first half of the 18th century, the Rococo style appears, which, as it were, completes the development of the Baroque style. Rococo is a decorative style with features of fragility, sophistication, some mannerism and sensuality. These traits were present in both male and female hairstyles.

Rococo men's hairstyles were small in volume. Hair was curled into curls, and sometimes slicked back. From behind they were tied with a black ribbon or hidden in a black pouch. Usually the hair was powdered. White powdered wigs came into vogue.

Women's hairstyle was also small and consisted of curls raised up, chipped at the back of the head and decorated with ribbons, bunches of feathers, flowers, threads of pearls. Hair was usually powdered. In the 70s of the 18th century, hairstyles become especially complex. It took several hours to "make" a fashionable hairstyle - kouafure. The women tried to keep her intact for several days. Hairstyles were done as follows: the hair was combed, a light frame was placed on the crown, on which the hair was lifted and fastened; then they were curled, powdered and, finally, they began to decorate. For this they used ribbons, flowers, lace. Sometimes a whole basket with fruits or even a model of a ship with gear and sails was hoisted on the head. Sometimes on the head was a mass of jewelry that exceeded the weight of the head itself.

The French Revolution of 1789 ushered in a new era, which was also reflected in the hairstyles. Inspired by the ideas of Freedom, the Ravens of the Brotherhood, the ideologues of the French Revolution turned to the images of the ancient world, drawing from the ancient ideas of democracy, severity of morals and aesthetic ideals. The second half of the 18th century is the period of classicism of the leading style direction. The men had their hair cut short and the powder fell out of use. Women's hairstyles had various forms, but they became very simplified, they became lower, their hair curled into curls.

With the coming to power of Napoleon I, the Empire style appeared, which in architecture and interiors resembles classicism in appearance, now artists and architects are inspired not by the strict and graceful forms of Greek temples, but by the heavy and magnificent forms of Roman architecture. The hair of the men was cut and curled into tight curls, their face was shaved, but on the cheeks from the temple they left narrow strips of hair, called a favorite. For women, hairstyles changed very often. They also wore a Czech knot and hairstyles from various combinations of curls.

After the overthrow of Napoleon, a new direction was born in the art of the 1920s and 1930s - romanticism. In hairstyles, the style direction dominates, which bears the German name - Biedermeier. This style became synonymous with burgher prosperity and comfort and was leading until the 40s. In France, an almost identical style was called the Louis Philippe style.

Men wore short, curled hair, raised above their foreheads in the form of a coca. In the 40s, the hair lengthened, reaching up to the ears. Sometimes they were curled abruptly. In the 50s, rather long hair combed in a side parting, often curled into a curl, was fashionable. In the 60s, a relatively short haircut and sideburns came into fashion. By the end of the century, the hair was cut short.

Women's hairstyles from the 1930s were truly works of art. The hair was combed into a side parting, the strands shortened from the sides were curled into large curls and laid over the temples. Long strands of hair were lifted up from the back and placed in various hairpieces at the crown of the head. In the 40s, the "socialite" - a fashionista with red hair became the new idol of high society. In the 50s, the hairstyle consisted of a lush chignon, and sometimes the hair parted in a straight part was laid in the back in a special net. In the 60s, the hair was raised above the forehead in the form of two rollers, and long curls were pulled down over the shoulders and back.

In the 70s and 80s, the hairstyle hardly changes in shape. It consists of long curls pulled down to the back, and above the temples, the hair was usually combed high up.

In Russia, in the field of fashion, they were guided by France. Many of the salons were owned by French craftsmen. Fashion magazines were subscribed from Paris, where there were even contests for hairdressers. In 1860, Russian masters Agapov and Andreev took first place in the competition, and in the 1888-1890s, Ivan Andreev received a number of awards for hairstyles and an Honorary Diploma of Honored Professor of Hairdressing.

The character of the hairstyles of the 1890-1900s changed again, due to the changes that took place in social life at the end of the century. Fashion becomes even more international, a business style appears, expressed in simplicity and rationality of hairstyles.

In 1904, permanent hair curling was performed for the first time in Germany. The permanent quickly spread throughout Europe. In the 20s of the XX century, hairstyles with a short haircut came into fashion. New chemical dyes and hair brighteners are also emerging. Hair coloring made it possible to give the hairstyle an additional effect, to revive it.

With the invention of perm, a real revolution in the art of hairdressing took place. This method of curling hair not only competed with success with all other methods, but also gradually replaced them. Thanks to perm, you can get good results when treating hair of a wide variety of properties and structure.

With the advent of cinema, the art of cinema has greatly influenced the shape of hairstyles. At one time, the hairstyles of the heroines of Greta Carbo and Marlene Dietrich came into fashion. In Russia, they focused on the hairstyles of actresses Lyudmila Tselikovskaya, Marina Ladynina, Lyubov Orlova.

In the 50-60s, the actress Brigitte Bardot introduced new hairstyles - "ponytail" and "Babette".

In 1971, the renowned master Vidal Sessun showed new haircuts that could only be done with scissors. In the 70s, punks appeared who protest against society not only with their behavior, clothes, but also their hairstyle.

Fashion designers have refined the style of tanks, creating haircuts "hedgehog", "cascade". Fashion of the 80s is distinguished by hairstyles from long hair of a free silhouette, flowing curls, both on long and short hair. Warm natural hair colors prevail: chestnut, red, brown, blond.

New from this period is pearl blonde, a combination of ash hair with lighter hair at the ends.

Fashion is fashion, whatever it may be, but each person can choose a hairstyle and style individually. To be beautiful and fashionable every day, you need to feel comfortable for a long time, and not just on the day you visit the hairdresser.

No one knows for certain when the history of hairdressing began, even with an error in the centuries. But we can say with confidence that she developed along with the person. People have always paid a lot of attention to their appearance and hairstyle. Ancient people, like us, tried to show their individuality with the help of hairstyles, to stand out from the crowd of fellow tribesmen. Each nation had its own idea of ​​beauty, respectively, and the hairstyles were made different. There are many stories in history about the methods of hair care and the first haircuts of our ancestors. The men burned their hair or cut it off with flint. Women tied their hair in a bun with leather straps, braids, and hair bundles. It was with these primitive haircuts, hairstyles that it all began.

Greece

The most developed in this direction were the Ancient Greeks. The cult of human appearance has always flourished in this country. The Greeks knew many secrets of cosmetic hair care products.

Long hair was a sign of prosperity and wealth among the ancient Greeks. They learned to skillfully weave braids, tied their hair in knots with great ingenuity, mastered curling, and used herbal powders with tint effects.

Egypt

We owe it to the inhabitants of ancient Egypt for the invention of one of the most popular haircuts - the bob. Their hair was cut at the same level, slightly below the ears. Well, the most common styling was carefully braided braids or hair was simply pinned into a bun using combs, hairpins and hoops.

Wigs were also in great demand among the Egyptians. But these were not easily cut and assembled into a product. Wigs in Ancient Egypt were decorated with precious metals and stones. Even the pharaohs wore them, and also a false beard. Commoners walked with their hair down.

Europe

But so many different haircuts and styling, as in Europe, were no longer in any part of the world. Each new era (Baroque, Empire, Classicism, Rococo, Middle Ages, Renaissance and many other eras) has brought about a change in hairdressing fashion.

Unique curls characterize the Empire style; short haircuts and hairstyles "a la Greek goddess" flourished in the era of the style of classicism; pretentious and high hairstyles were characteristic of the Baroque era; the fragile and pale beauties of the Middle Ages adorned the golden curls up to the thighs.

And in the past few decades, the history of hairdressing has been replenished with many legendary hairstyles and styling. It is worth remembering Merlin Monroe, Bridget Bordeaux, Audrey Hepburn, Lyubov Orlova, Marina Vlady. Each of them was the standard of beauty.

The first methods of cutting and dyeing hair

The story also tells us about the first haircuts and methods of hair dyeing. Previously, there were no such concepts as a stylist, make-up artist, hairdresser. But people have always strived for beauty, the position in society obliged them to exquisite styling, fashion dictated its own conditions regarding hair color and haircuts.

Ancient hairdressing tools had simple designs. They were made from wood, stone, bronze, ivory, flint, precious metals. In ancient Greece, hairdressers (kalamistra) spent several hours cutting and styling, creating real works of art. The beautiful heads of Greek women were adorned with tiaras, hoops, beads and ribbons. The procedure began with therapeutic masks, massage, rinsing with aromatic solutions. Haircut and styling also took a long time.

In the history of hairdressing and our history in general, there are many facts testifying to the first hair dyeing among different peoples. The Greeks, Romans and Orientals had dark hair. However, in literary works and in drawings, fair-haired, golden-haired beauties often appear. Women could change their hair color with a wig or special remedy.

In ancient Greece, a special powder was invented, which included rice flour. Henna (a natural dye that was extracted from the leaves of Lavsonia) was also very popular. Hair, after using henna, became a beautiful, rich color. The powder added shine to the hair, making it lush and thick.

Summing up all of the above, we can conclude that the history of hairdressing began with the appearance of the first person, with his desire to become more beautiful. It was the ancient people who laid the foundation for everything that we see today in beauty salons and hairdressing salons.

The art of hairdressing is one of the oldest on earth. Its history goes back several thousand years. In the 3rd-2nd millennium BC, they tried to decorate their appearance with hairstyles. Hair of a certain length, styled in a special way, was the hallmark of various conditions. By the hairstyles, it was possible to determine whether they were worshipers, or landowners, or artisans, slaves or free citizens, nobility or poor people.

Hairstyles appeared much earlier than clothing. Even on the rock paintings. Then there were people who walked naked 5-6 millennia ago, but with complex hairstyles from long hair.

I would like to review the history of the development of hairdressing in several countries.

Ancient Egypt is considered the most ancient center of civilization. They were characterized by conservatism in the choice of hairstyle. The most popular form of hairstyle was the trapeze. Fashionable and popular colors: black and dark brown. The women curled their hair on metal rods and used clay as styling product. Men wore loose hair, shaved beards and mustaches, but wore artificial ones.

Ancient Greece - the Greeks gave the name and the true meaning to the rules and methods of doing hairstyles, haircuts, shaving. The Greeks had an excellent knowledge of the laws and rules of accordion and aesthetics. Slaves were engaged in hairdressing. There was a popular long hair that was curled with a metal rod with balls at the ends and with handles for holding - called kalamis. Very long hair was braided and styled in beautiful buns or knots. With the help of ribbons, the hair was lifted up - a Greek knot. If the hair is smooth and straight - mourning. For men, long hair was matched with a decorative, leather ribbon. Such a traditional element was thick bangs, consisting of the same sickle-shaped curls. In the 5th century BC, men began to wear short haircuts. They were cut with fire and flint.

Popular colors are ash and gold. Only natural dyes were used. In the 5th-6th centuries BC, wigs appeared from large curly locks of hair, they were worn only by men. The Greeks created hairstyles taking into account the type of face, figure, age, physique.

Ancient Rome - Greek fashion dominated for a long time.

But in the end, the Romans developed their own style, which surpassed the Greek canons.

Men's hairstyles represented the entire range of styles possible. Short hair with long, thick bangs was popular among men. They did not wear beards or mustaches.

The women had long hair that was wrapped in voluminous buns. In their hairstyles, they considered braiding and curling in waves of various densities.

They also performed fine perms on their hair. With the advent of blonde slaves, the Romans learned to lighten their hair, since this hair was considered the most beautiful.

Pliny Sr. in his book "Natural History" described a method of dyeing hair red.

Doctor Galen in his writings described henna and basma as a means of dyeing hair.

Middle Ages - clothes and hairstyles were strictly regulated by the church. The hair was covered with a veil and other headdresses.

Long, loose hair could only be worn by young unmarried girls, and later in the Middle Ages, hair began to be braided into braids. The most beautiful hair was considered to be long, curly, golden color. But by the end of the Middle Ages, after long wars, when Europeans were faced with the luxury of oriental nobles - the growth of cities, population growth, the opening of public baths, gave rise to new trends in art.

Renaissance - Renaissance. This is the flourishing of sciences and arts. Men wear long hair to the shoulder blades, the hair at the temples and the back of the head is cut inward. An evenly trimmed bang is released on the forehead. Blond hair is considered attractive. Hair is dyed with mineral and organic dyes, false hair is worn in bright yellow color.

Elegant hairstyles become tall, lush, and have a fancy shape. The high forehead was in vogue, so part of the hair above the forehead of women was shaved off. In Europe, there was fashionable hair - long braids laid around the head, which were styled with ornaments.

Studying the history of hairdressing, you will notice that some hairstyles are repeated after a certain time, only corresponding to the fashion trend.

HISTORY OF DEVELOPMENT OF HAIRDRESSING ART

The history of hairdressing is rooted in the distant past. Centuries pass, epochs change, people, accordingly, clothes and hairstyles change.

Different peoples have formed their own style and certain traditions associated with the natural conditions of the country and the position of a person in society.

Hairstyles and haircuts of ancient Greece

It is believed that the first professional hairdressers appeared in ancient Greece. Hair care is considered a kind of ritual. The slaves washed, dried, dyed, curled, cut their hair, while each operation with the hair was carried out by another slave. Greek hairstyles became a role model for many generations to come. An example of this is the classic "Greek knot" - korimbos, which was worn both at the beginning of the 19th century and in the middle of the 20th century.

With this hairstyle, long hair was combed in a parted part, curled in waves and lowered quite low along the cheeks, and lifted from behind and placed in a knot at the back of the head, fastened with hairpins and narrow ribbons.

The casual men's hairstyle consisted of short cropped hair, a short beard and mustache. Some of the dandies wore long hair, curled in curls and tied in a gold hoop.

Hairstyles of ancient egypt

An interesting form of hairstyles was created in Ancient Egypt. Such a complex hairstyle required the services of specially trained slaves.

The Egyptians dyed their hair with henna, decorated their hairstyles, decorative elements.

Renaissance or Renaissance hairstyles

The Renaissance, or Renaissance, was a milestone in the history of hairdressing. At this time in Italy, men considered fashionable hairstyles of two main types: hair was either combed smoothly back, or wore a hairstyle with bangs. The face was shaved smoothly.

For women, golden hair was considered especially beautiful. The hairstyle could be very sophisticated and sophisticated. It consisted of combinations of braids, curls decorated with veils, ribbons, etc. Sometimes young girls wore loose hair.

In Spain, short hair, beards and mustaches were all the rage for men. The Spanish women wore a simple and strict hairstyle - the bando: the hair parted in a parted part descended along the cheeks, and folded into a chignon at the back. Hair was beautifully decorated with flowers, hoops, jewelry.

In the 17th century, France became a trendsetter in the field of fashions and hairstyles. The baroque style is finally taking shape. Baroque hairstyles were entirely subordinate to court etiquette and were distinguished by their splendor, a huge number of decorations and a complex technique of execution.

For men, the hairstyle consisted of long hair, loose over the shoulders. The nobles let go of a small beard and a small mustache at the edge of their lips. Later, wigs became fashionable. The lush hairstyle consisted of a mass of long curled hair, and blond was considered a fashionable hair color. This wig resembled a lion's mane.

In general, in France, hairstyles often had a pronounced political connotation. So at the end of the 17th century, during the Great French Revolution, young people came up with an extravagant hairstyle "victim", in England it was called "guillotine", since the hair on the back of the head was cut short or shaved, resembling the hairstyle of a condemned to death.

In the 18th century, the Rococo style appears - a decorative style with features of fragility and sophistication. These traits were present in both male and female hairstyles.

Rococo men's hairstyles were small in volume. Hair was curled into curls, and sometimes slicked back. From behind they were tied with a black ribbon or hidden in a black pouch.

The women's hairstyle was also small and consisted of curls raised up, chipped at the back of the head and decorated with ribbons, bunches of feathers, flowers, threads of pearls. The hair was usually powdered.

With the coming to power of Napoleon I, the Empire style appeared. The men's hair was cut and curled in tight curls - "a la bitis" the face was shaved, but on the cheeks from the temples they left narrow strips of hair, called a favorite.

For women, hairstyles changed very often. Both the Greek knot and hairstyles from various combinations of curls were worn.

Thanks to technological progress, discoveries in science, many new things appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century.

A short haircut has become widespread, which has gained truly popularity. New chemical dyes are also emerging.

With the invention of perm, a real revolution in the art of hairdressing took place. Thanks to perm, you can get good results when treating hair of a wide variety of properties and structure.

The cinematograph, invented at the end of the 19th century by the Lumière brothers, had a strong influence on the development of fashion. Now movie heroes have become trendsetters in hairstyles.

In the 30s of the twentieth century, Greta Garbo introduced the fashion for hairstyles with soft waves and a golden tint.

In the 60s, thanks to the actress Brigitte Bardot and the film Babette Goes to War, the Babette hairstyle appears.

Marina Vlady, who played in the movie "The Witch", brought into fashion the hairstyle "under the witch" - straight blonde hair.

In the late 80s - early 90s, hairstyles from long and short hair were fashionable. Haircuts of the "false bob" type - "hat" and of the "fringe" type - "hat" appeared.

Modern hairstyles

Modern fashion involves women's hairstyles in a variety of ways: business, casual, formal with decor from brooches, hairpins, etc.

In men's fashion today there is complete freedom: from a shaved head and temples to long hair of the "square" and "tail" type. But the business style of a young businessman prevails. Haircuts "express", "rally", sports haircuts are especially popular.

Fashion for hairstyles knows no nations - it is international. Stylists, hairdressers are constantly coming up with new forms of hairstyles. But from time to time there are modified "old" hairstyles. It is no accident that they say: "The new is the well-forgotten old." Moreover, it is often very difficult to say which hairstyle is in fashion at the moment.

Ancient Rome Hairstyles

Much attention was paid to hair styling and its beauty in ancient Rome. The Romans borrowed a lot from the Greeks, but over time they developed and established their own style. For hair care, they used herbal infusions. The curling was done with the same metal rods, and also created the effect of "wet" hair, using special formulations of a sticky consistency. For haircuts, they used razors in the form of sickles, for decorating hairstyles - gold dust. In addition, the hair was impregnated with aromatic oils.

The slaves who performed the functions of beauticians and hairdressers were called cosmetologists.

Hairstyles in the countries of the East - Japan and China

In the countries of the East - Japan and China - hairstyles were built on the head, the basis of which was cardboard props. To add volume, soft rollers and pads were inserted inside such a structure. Sticky resins and egg whites served as fixators.

Hairstyles in the Middle Ages

In the Middle Ages, fashion and cosmetics were recognized as phenomena that came "from the devil", and any desire for beauty and luxury was considered sinful.

Women wore all kinds of capes on their hair, and of the items needed to keep their hair in order, they only needed a comb.

The era of the Baroque (translated from Italianbarocco- "bizarre, strange"), which lasted from the end of the 16th to the beginning of the 18th century, - a time when wigs gained particular popularity.

In the 17th century, the allonge wig was invented. Very lush and voluminous, it was made from long curled fake hair by the hands of the most experienced craftsmen, called "postigers".

Specialists who worked at the royal court in France created real masterpieces, invented different types of hairstyles, which were supposed to emphasize a noble origin, belonging to a certain title. They not only put a lot of hairpieces on their heads, but also hoisted baskets of fruits, models of ships and other structures.

In the 18th century, a school of kuafers (hairdressers) worked in Paris, where future masters learned to make multi-tiered hairstyles, incredibly voluminous and high. They were created on a certain basis: wooden and even iron rods, wooden and cardboard frames, which were covered with hair. Complex and over-sized hairstyles and styling went out of fashion after the democratization of society, as did the wearing of wigs, which became prohibited and punishable immediately after the Great French Revolution of 1789.

In France in the second half of the 19th century, all girls and women from high society often dyed their hair the same color, which was considered the most beautiful and certainly the most fashionable - blond.

The fact is that it was then that a new method for lightening hair with the help of hydrogen peroxide was discovered. Fancy hairstyles practically disappeared.

After the freedom of choice of professions was declared in France, women began to master the hairdressing craft mainly.

On the territory of Russia, men have always preferred to wear long beards and loose hair. The women braided them in braids. Combed with combs made of horn, bone, wood or metal.

Under the influence of European countries, Russians switched to semi-long hair, men began to shave. As Christianity spread in our country, beards again became relevant. Haircut "under the pot" has been very common at all times. It was worn by both boys and men.

In the 13th century, oriental haircuts became popular. They were made in imitation of the Tatars, who had been managing the territory of Russia for a long time.

In the 17th century, a royal decree was issued, forbidding imitation of foreigners, shaving beards and cutting hair. Hairdressing services in Russia were mainly offered by wandering barbers, who not only cut and shaved, but also undertook to pull out teeth, put leeches, and heal wounds. Wealthy people had serfs trained in hairdressing.

"Multi-storey" hairstyles became fashionable under Peter I, since it was during his reign that Western masters were actively invited to the country, who had the ability to style curls in beautiful hairstyles and decorate them with jewelry. But this fashion was not to the liking of Russian beauties, who did not like pretentiousness and splendor, so the hairstyles soon changed and became more modest. Wealthy people wore wigs, and the peasants continued to have their hair cut “under the pot”.

In the 18th century, fashion magazines appeared in Russia (“Shop of English, French and German Fashions” and others), in which not only new models of clothing were presented, but also hairstyles.

In 1880, the electric hair clipper appeared, which in the advanced European countries quickly replaced the manual one. In 1884, the Frenchman Marseille invented the curling iron, which has survived to this day almost unchanged.

At the beginning of the 20th century, in 1904, Karl Nestler invented thermal curling, which lasted for about 6 months. But such a procedure was costly and time-consuming, since each curl had to be wound on curlers separately and heated with a special device, which in its appearance resembled a medieval instrument of torture.

And in 1909, a curling machine, powered by electricity, came into use. The device weighed about 900 g and was a box suspended from the ceiling. Heaters descended on moving wires from above. Felt rings were used to avoid scalp burns.

In the 19th century, corporations of hairdressers appeared, which were created by the owners of specialized salons and in which professional issues were discussed. These could include both male and female hairdressers.

Cold perm (which is widely used today), carried out at room temperature, appeared in the last century, in 1940, thanks to the work of Everett McDonough. Today, only the number of options and methods has increased: new types of solutions and curlers of various shapes have appeared, but the technology has remained the same.

At the beginning of the 20th century, there were no special schools that taught hairdressing. The masters recruited students to work with them, but they were in no hurry to pass on to them the experience accumulated over several years and share professional tricks. In the 1930s, a whole network of hairdressing salons with qualified service personnel appeared in Russia.

They were mainly women with a high level of skill. They did complex haircuts and curls that lasted for 6 months. Short hair was curled horizontally, while long hair was curled vertically. Mostly they were painted with metallic paints. The electrical apparatus that existed at that time remained rather primitive.

Salons began to open around 1936. Hairdressers used clippers and special machines for steam and electric curling. By the 40s, every master could do a thermal wave. In the 30s, the chemical method of curling was invented in the USA, which began to be introduced in our country after the Great Patriotic War. At the same time, curling with curlers gained great popularity, gradually replacing thermal styling and everything that was carried out with the help of electrical devices. With the advent of new dyes, the range of colors and shades used for dyeing hair has expanded. The specialists performed the procedures, combining both haircuts and curling, and to achieve the best result, they used curlers and a hairdryer.

In the 70s, perm became very popular, and most hairstyles were done based on it. Pigtails and false curls came into vogue.

Today everyone chooses what he likes, what corresponds to his world outlook and self-awareness. Many people like curls and curls. There are several types of curls, so you have the opportunity to choose angelic curls, spirals, large or small curls, waves, etc.

The main thing is to choose the right way to achieve the desired result: curling, permanent or styling.

Haircut, modeling, hairstyle - St. Petersburg, 1997

Bulgakova I. Big book of a home hairdresser - Rostov-on-Don, 2007

Sorokin of a wide profile. Graduate School. - M. 2008