Basics of composing perfume compositions

from "Fundamentals of the production of perfumery and cosmetics"

Composing is the foundation of the art of perfumery. The creation of perfumery is both a science and an art.
Table 6 shows the components that make up some compositions with a floral scent (violets, lily of the valley, rose, carnation, jasmine).
As you can see from the table. 6, in compositions with the scent of violets, one can find components of a rose, carnations with the scent of lily of the valley - components of jasmine, roses with a scent of jasmine - components of lily of the valley, rose, etc. Therefore, a perfumer can create an unlimited number of different scents by choosing a combination of aromatic substances. The nature of the smell will be determined by the combination and ratio of aromatic substances.
When composing flower compositions, the perfumer is somewhat limited in the choice of aromatic substances. However, it has been established that floral perfumes with the smell of lilac, lily of the valley, violet, etc., created by different perfumers, differ significantly in shades of smell. This is due to the fact that different perfumers perceive and reproduce the smell of a natural flower differently. The abilities of the perfumer are manifested to a much greater extent when creating fantasy compositions, for example, with the smell of chypre, wine glass, leather, etc. Perfume compositions with a fantasy smell are the basis of numerous perfumes (Triumph, Visit, Ogonyok, Cinderella, Stone Flower, Only You, Opera, Sardonyx , Nocturne, Russian shawl, Night scent, Chypre, etc.). The smells of chypre and wine glass are due to the combination of aromatic substances with a citrus scent, oak moss and components of rose, jasmine and carnation.
Let us consider the construction of a perfume composition with a fantasy scent using the example of a composition with a chypre scent.
There are three stages of the smell of perfume compositions, depending on the rate of evaporation of fragrant substances: the initial smell (felt soon after the evaporation of alcohol from the perfume), the main one (the smell characteristic of the given name of the perfumery) and the final (the smell that remains after prolonged evaporation of the perfume).
The search for compounds for the initial note is easier, as there is a large assortment of volatile fragrances with a pleasant scent. You can enter, for example, orange and bergamot oils, aldehydes with carbon atoms in the molecule from 9 to 12. Variants of this formulation can be increased almost indefinitely, while remaining within the framework of the smell of chypre with different shades. Thus, a perfumer can vary perfumes with a given scent character, choosing the combinations he likes. At the same time, he should not try to introduce all existing fragrances into the composition. First of all, he chooses the products with which he intends to work to create the intended smell.
To obtain the desired scent, the perfumer usually proceeds from 1-individual synthetic fragrances and essential oils, / he can also combine one base composition with another, taking / them in equal amounts or one in more and the other in less. Why add to these combinations individual fragrances that determine the initial, main and final scents of the composition. At the same time, many aromatic substances determine the initial and basic notes of the scent at the same time (for example, lavender oil, bergamot oil, rosemary oil, etc.).
Thus, in the beginning, the perfumer creates the main, or the so-called lead, scent. Then he selects aromatic substances to the main smell, complementing and harmoniously combining with the main smell and giving the perfume a certain fullness, timbre, tonality and color.
Both in domestic and foreign practice, a new composition, as a rule, is developed not for one type of perfumery product, but mainly for a complete series, which includes perfume, cologne, eau de toilette, bath preparation, fragrant talc, etc. Although the composition may be intended for a narrower series (only for perfumes and colognes or only for perfumes).
The essential components of perfume compositions for classic colognes are natural citrus oils: orange, tangerine, lemon, bergamot, as well as lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and neroli. Citrus oils are responsible for the freshness of the initial scent of colognes. Other products in the perfume compositions for classic colognes only emphasize and complement the citrus oil note. Lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and lemon oils give the composition a fresh floral hue.
In addition to the classic colognes, there are also fancy scent colognes, which are classic colognes when added to other products.
In foreign practice, over the past few years, floral compositions with various shades have been the predominant direction. Especially popular are the floral aromas of a sweet-spicy character, close in smell to the so-called oriental style in perfumery.
In parallel with the leading direction, represented by flower compositions, in foreign perfumery in recent years, another one has developed - musky. The sharp, unpleasant smell of the so-called musk oils distinguishes them from traditional perfumery products, as well as more complex compositions based on a combination of musk scent with aromas of jasmine, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla and ylang-ylang.
One of the essential indicators of the quality of modern cosmetics, toilet soaps and detergents is their smell. These products should be perfumed in moderation and create a pleasant sensation when used.
For the fragrance of cosmetic products, almost all fragrances can be used, but in the optimal concentration for them. Some exceptions are those that do not tolerate a certain environment, cause irritation to the skin or mucous membranes, or are incompatible in combination with one another.

theory + practice

Individual aromatherapy perfume made from 100% natural essential oils contains natural phytoestrogens, which help to reveal the spiritual and physical potential of a person, heal the psyche, nervous system, harmonize family life and intimate relationships, and help to find a soul mate.

The main objective of the seminar- will learn to compose an individual aromatherapy perfume that has both therapeutic and aesthetic effects. The seminar is aimed at the practical development of the methods of composing perfumes.

The program may be of interest to both aromatherapy professionals and amateurs.

Program:

• Aromatherapy perfumes - their purpose and types (alcohol and oil). Advantages and disadvantages of each type of perfume. Manufacturing technology. The difference is in the technology of making perfume, eau de toilette, cologne, deodorant, scented water, aromatic oil.
• Aroma testing and composition selection.
• The rules for composing a composition, "tone" (notes) of the composition. Calculation of proportions.
• Aromapsychological orientation of the compositions: tonic, relaxing, anti-stress, erotic (examples).
• Male and female compositions. Fragrance families: chypre, fougere, citrus, floral, oriental, spicy, leather, green, sea.
• Creation of fragrances "based on" famous brands. "Setting the nose" to determine the main notes of the aroma.
• A combination of flavors. The use of "dominant" aromas. Complementary aromas.
• A combination of aromas and features of an individual image.
• Practical task on drawing up a thematic composition (work with testers).
• Examples of compound aroma perfumes.
• Practical work on the preparation of individual aroma-perfumes.
• Questions and answers.

The seminar will be held by: teacher-methodologist of CA "Iris", psychologist-trainer, certified coach (ECF certificate)

When you buy perfume, you hardly think that the art of composing perfume compositions is a complex science that must be mastered for many years. Of course, it is impossible to become a professional in perfumery in a few minutes, but it is quite possible to understand how fragrances are created, what notes they consist of and how the group to which they belong is determined.

How the perfume base is created

In the descriptions it is customary to use the musical term "three-sounding chord". Indeed, any perfume bouquet, like an accord, includes three main notes: base, middle and top. At the beginning of work on a fragrance, its base is compiled. Traditional perfumes are usually made with high quality 95% alcohol and essential oils-fixatives, which are chosen depending on which notes should prevail in the perfume. For example, for spirits of the woody group, sandalwood, oud, , vetiver, cedar, myrrh - they give the aroma a pronounced and persistent woody aroma and do not allow the smell to quickly disappear. For perfumes of other groups, aromatic and very persistent oils are often used as base oils. , chefrasa, vanilla, tonka, beans.

It should be noted that Arabian oil perfumes, unlike traditional ones, are made without an alcohol base, only from mixtures of natural essential oils of plant or animal origin. For example, the famous animalic scents are based on ambergris (a wax-like substance produced in the digestive tract of a sperm whale) or musk (an odorous substance obtained from the dried endocrine glands of musk deer or beaver). Alcohol and water are never added to the base of oriental perfume.

Middle and top notes

In the choice of middle and top notes, everything depends on the imagination and intuition of the perfumer, who, like a true artist, creates his own author's fragrance, mixing oils in certain proportions. However, this creative work has its own rules and laws.

For the top notes, light oils are taken, evaporating in literally 20-30 minutes. Their main task is to "acquaint" with the aroma, to give the very first idea about it. Typically, depending on the group, volatile essential oils of citrus, bergamot, herbs, spices, fresh fruits and flowers are used for the top notes.

For the heart of the composition, essential oils are most often used, the smell of which is able to not disintegrate for about two to three hours. These are strong and vibrant phyto-substances such as tuberose, ylang-ylang, cyclamen, cloves, mimosa and so on. Of course, essential oils are selected based on which group or subgroup the aroma composition to be created belongs to.

How the scent unfolds

The famous perfumer of the Coco Chanel house, Jacques Paul, once said that a good perfume, like a true woman, should not immediately reveal all its secrets and mysteries. In a high-quality perfume, at first only the top notes are felt, then the heart of the fragrance appears, and only then - the base, which is its true soul. So when you go shopping for a new perfume, be sure to put a few drops of the sample on your wrist and go about your business.

Perfume composition, or let's call it "perfume" - is always the result of the author's creativity. But there are a number of fundamental principles.

Perfumes can be alcohol (alcohol-based), oily (oil-based) and solid (wax-based).

Consider oil perfume, for example.

In such perfumes, essential oils can be from 10 to 30%, the rest is an oil base - for example, jojoba oil, which itself is odorless, neutral.

Essential oils in perfume are divided into three main groups:

Top note or "perfume head" - these essential oils are very volatile and "active", we perceive their aroma first and it prepares us for the main scent of perfume. This smell is short-lived and disappears quickly.

The heart note - the heart of the perfume, constitutes the main scent, appears later and lasts for a long time. At the same time, this aroma is like a link between the first and third group of essential oils. The most pleasant ethers should be added to the heart note.

The basis is essential oils with a persistent aroma that lasts longer than others and goes well with the rest of the ethers, forming a kind of general background.

Some essential oils can flow smoothly from one group to another, it is important that the perfume composition maintains its integrity.

3. When making up perfumes:

When mixing in the base, first the esters of the base note are added, then the "heart", then the top note. Another option states that first a heart note is added to the base, followed by a base and then a top note. If, after all, any aroma stands out inappropriately or, on the contrary, is lost, you can balance the composition by adding the ethers we need.

For the scent of perfume to manifest itself in full, they must “ripen”. After composing the perfume, let it "infuse" for four weeks so that the ingredients merge into a single whole. According to another version, 15 days will be enough.

How to compose the composition we need?

You need to make several strips of paper, apply essential oils on them drop by drop and sign each strip, indicating which essential oil is applied to it. Then, after having tasted each one carefully, put aside those that, in your opinion, will suit you for the composition. Then it’s worth seeing how they sound together in different combinations - first the heart, then the base, then with the top note ...

Having found the most harmonious combination in your opinion, make a sample on a napkin. If the probe is successful, you can implement it.

After adding a couple of essential oils, let them "play out", leaving the bottle for 20-30 minutes, then add the following esters.

When adding essential oils to the bases, you need to shake the bottle slightly so that the oil "enters", but not strongly, and Master Cunningham did not recommend shaking, but advised to just rotate the bottle a little.

Examples of essential oils for the top note:bergamot, verbena, lemongrass, limette, tangerine, orange, peppermint, lemon, bell, rosemary.

Examples of heart note essential oils:geranium, iris, jasmine, chamomile, lavender, lemon balm, mimosa, clary sage, myrtle, neroli, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, hyssop. (I personally perceive neroli and lavender as top note esters)

Examples of base note essential oils:benzoy, elemi, galbanum, honey essential oil, musk, cloves, patchouli, rosewood, sandalwood, styrax, vetiver, juniper, incense, cedar (V.I. Zakharenkov refers it to a heart note), cinnamon, cypress, amber, violet, vanilla.

Floral: perfume oils in this category have the smell of one flower or a whole flower group. Examples are rose, lavender and jasmine oils. These perfume oils have a strong sweet scent.

Citrus: Perfume oils in this category are distinguished by a pungent tart odor, so they are most often used in the production of soaps, face scrubs and other cosmetics for skin care. This category includes lemon, grapefruit and tangerine oils.

Eastern: these are oils with a spicy and heady scent of spices and amber, vanilla and musk.

Woody: this group includes oils with the smell of cedar and sandalwood, patchouli and camphor.

Leather: These perfume oils have wood, tobacco or honey scent and are therefore mainly used in men's perfumes and after shave skin care products.

Fougere: this group includes oils with the smell of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss.

To write this post, materials from the book by V. I. Zakharenkov "Encyclopedia of Aromas" and from the site http://www.izbushka.com/forum/

On my own behalf, I will briefly add that it is best to compose perfume compositions on days when the Moon follows the signs of Air: Gemini, Libra, Aquarius, while Libra is best. It is also good to compose "personal" spirits when the Moon is walking along your ASC - at the point of the ecliptic rising above the horizon at the moment of your birth. Spirits "for love" - ​​the Moon according to Venus, to the target - according to the MC (the upper point of the ecliptic at the time of your birth), for magical practices - the Moon according to the Moon, etc.

It is better not to make compositions on the days of the square between the Moon and the Sun, as well as when the Moon is very flawed or very young.

And about black musk: it's not true that it doesn't work, it's just that aphrodisiacs with a scanty proportion are often sold as imitations of this component, and not a natural product in its full form. Regarding aphrodisiacs: they can be tested on cats, if the cat perks up and stretches its nose to the probe - then it is good, if not, especially if it has a strong negative attitude to the smell - it is not good. IMHO.