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How to knit with knitting needles front and back. Purl loops with knitting needles - we knit ourselves. Knitting the purl loop in the classic way


Grandma's front loop corresponds to the grandmother's purl loop.
The classic front loop corresponds to the classic purl loop.

The most common mistake is the wrong grip of the thread with the right knitting needle when knitting the wrong loop in the classic way, while the loop on the front side turns out like in the grandmother's way.
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Consider the structure of the loop:

The front wall of the loop is the vertical part of the loop located on top of the knitting needle (in the photo - the classic front loop, its front wall is on the right).
The back wall of the loop is the vertical part of the loop located behind the knitting needle (in the photo - the classic front loop, its left lobule is back, lower).
The arc of the loop is the upper horizontal part of the loop lying on the knitting needle (connecting the right and left lobes into a loop).
Broach or jumper - a thread connecting two adjacent loops from below in a horizontal row.
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Facial loop "grandmother's" and "classic" way.



- "Grandma's" front loop before knitting is located on the left knitting needle with its left lobule on top of the knitting needle, the right lobule of the loop is under the knitting needle (it is also the back, lower half-loop, wall, lobule);
we insert the right knitting needle inside the loop with a movement from right to left, we grab the thread from the index finger of the left hand with a movement from above (the knitting needle lies on top of the thread and is captured by the movement towards itself); after knitting, the right segment of the loop will take a position on top of the right knitting needle, because this is how it unfolds from the way the working thread is captured by the right knitting needle when knitting the front loop;

- The "classic" front loop before knitting on the left knitting needle is located with the right slice on top, the knitting needle is inserted into the loop from left to right, the thread is captured from above, on the right knitting needle the loop is located with the right slice on top.


Conclusion 1:
After knitting the front loops in both methods, the movement when the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop is different, but the same way the knitting needle moves when grabbing the working thread. When knitting a loop and after knitting in both ways, the right wall of loops will be located on top of the right knitting needle.


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Purl loop "grandmother's" and "classic" way.

The purl loop in the "grandmother's" way is located before knitting on the left knitting needle with the right slice from above (near half-loop, front wall, slice), insert the right knitting needle into the loop from right to left, the thread is captured from above. After knitting, the loop falls on the right knitting needle in expanded form with its left slice on top of the knitting needle.

The purl loop in the "classic" way before knitting on the left knitting needle is located with its right slice on top of the knitting needle, the near slice (front wall), and the left part - under the knitting needle; after knitting, the position of the lobules at the loop on the right knitting needle does not change: the right lobule (wall) remains on top of the right knitting needle.


Conclusion 2:
- The purl loop when knitting in both the "grandmother's" (grab the thread from above) and the "classic" (grab the thread in a counterclockwise motion) way is knitted for the front (located on top of the knitting needle) wall; Place the working thread on the left knitting needle from above before working from right to left, the right knitting needle is inserted into the loop and under the working thread in the same movement - from right to left, but the movement when grabbing the thread when knitting is different:

A) for grandmother's - with the right knitting needle, already inside the loop and under the thread, move clockwise (to the right) under the thread and put it on the thread from above, grab the thread upwards to the right and pull it out into the loop;
b) for the classic - with the right knitting needle, already inside the loop and under the thread, make a movement with the end of the right knitting needle from left to right and put it on top of the thread on the index finger of the left hand, move the end of the knitting needle under the thread with a movement to the left, grab it and remove it with a downward movement to the left (knit ) in a loop on the left needle.
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Conclusion 3:
In classic knitting, both the front and back loops, both before and after knitting, are located with their right slices on both the left and right knitting needles. This makes it possible to knit loops in any combination (front over front or back, back over front or back) without crossing the slices at the base of the loop.
Example: garter st with classic loops (when all loops are knit in both even and odd rows, or a garter stitch variant from purl loops) does not cross at the base of the loops.

Features of knitting patterns with "grandmother's loops", "garter stitch loop"
- If over the "grandmother's" front loop you need to knit the "grandmother's" purl (as it is supposed to knit the purl - behind the front wall (left slice on top of the left knitting needle)), then we get a crossed loop to the right. To avoid crossing, we knit the purl over the front loop as follows:


- If you need to knit the elastic with "grandmother's" loops in a circle (circular knitting), then due to the peculiarities of the position of the loops when connecting the work into a circle, the front loops knitted in the 1st row are turned to us with the right slice (see conclusion 1 above) over the left knitting needles and now require knitting for the upper front loop, as in the "classic" way of knitting the front loop, and to avoid crossing the wrong loop, we knit with the capture of the lower loop of the loop from behind, as in the picture above. It is worth noting that the classic knitting method does not require any tricks.

If you need to knit the front surface in a circle (see here), we see that the knitted loops on the right knitting needle lie with the right slice on top. Having connected all the loops of the first row, we come in a circle to the first of the knitted loops, and it is turned to us with its right half-loop on the knitting needle and requires knitting in the "classic" way in order to avoid crossing the walls of the loops at their base.

Purl loops and how to knit them. Calculation for the symmetry of the pattern. Crossed loops and their features. How best to knit edging. Double edging. Fastening the loops of the last row. Practical advice. Patterns from a combination of facial and purl loops

Purl loops.Purl loops, like front loops, can be performed in several ways.

Method 1. Knitting the purl loop using method 1 (Fig. 1)

Slip off the edge stitch and place the working yarn in front of the left needle. Insert the right knitting needle into the loop from right to left behind the working thread and wrap the thread around it counterclockwise, pull the resulting coil into the loop and transfer the new loop from the left knitting needle to the right. Such a purl corresponds to the front loop made in method 1.

Exercise 2.1. Garter knitting from purl loops (Fig. 2)

Let's get back to the tutorial. Purl all rows. The structure of the fabric should change dramatically: it will become looser and wider, no matter how tight the purl loops are knitted.

Method 2. Knitting the purl loop using method 2 ("grandmother's" purl - fig. 3)

Figure 3. "Grandma's" purl

Remove the edge and place the working thread in front of the left knitting needle. Insert the right needle into the loop from right to left behind the working thread, then bring the thread under the end of the right needle, pull it into the loop and transfer the new loop from the left needle to the right. The wrong side, made in this way, corresponds to the "grandmother's" front.

Exercise 2.2. Hosiery knitting from "grandmother's" loops (Fig. 4)

Knitting is ancient, but never out of fashion. It is universal, as it is suitable for women's, men's and children's clothes, sports and dressy clothes, hats, swimwear, socks, stockings, mittens, etc. (beautiful knitting patterns).

The even surface of knitting allows it to be used as a background for convex and openwork patterns, as well as for ornaments and embroidery. There is a drawback in it: the stocking knit fabric is twisted (by the way, this feature is used when performing rolls), therefore. the bottom edge is recommended to start with some kind of double-sided pattern.

Hosiery knitting belongs to the category of one-sided. Its front side is called the front surface, the wrong side is called the wrong side. The latter resembles knitted garter stitch, but looks a little smoother due to the lack of "beds" inherent in garter stitch. At first glance, it may seem that hosiery knitting is very simple. But truly beautiful it happens only with experienced craftswomen. One of the "secrets" of execution is knitting with "grandmother's" loops.

1st row - facial "grandmother's" loops.
2nd row - purl "grandmother's" loops.

Exercise 2.3)

The number of loops for this sample should be divided by 6 plus 3 additional loops for the symmetry of the pattern, plus 2 edge.

In the following, when describing most of the patterns (how to knit loops), detailed calculations are given explaining how the number of loops needed for a set is determined. The first digit of the calculation shows how many loops are included in the motif of the pattern (a motif is a certain combination of loops that repeat rhythmically in a knitted pattern). The second number explains how many stitches need to be added to the first number to make the pattern symmetrical on both sides. For knitting such as garter and hosiery, the second digit is neglected. The third digit indicates the number of edging.

So, for an elastic band Zx3, there should be 29 loops on the knitting needles.
1st row - 3 facial "grandmothers", 3 and purl "grandmothers", etc. (i.e., alternate 3 facial with 3 purl to the end of the row).
2nd row - according to the pattern, i.e. knit facial loops over the front loops, purl over the wrong ones.
3rd row - repeat the pattern from the 1st row.

Exercise 2.4. Checkerboard (Fig. 6)

Figure 6. Checkerboard pattern

The number of loops should be divided by 6 plus 3 additional loops for the symmetry of the pattern, plus 2 hem. There are 29 stitches on the needles (both knit and purl knit using method 1).
1st row - purl 3, facial 3, etc.
2nd, 3rd and 4th rows - according to the figure.
5th row - 3 facial, 3 purl, etc.
6th, 7th and 8th rows - according to the figure.
9th row - repeat the pattern from the 1st row.

Crossed loops

A loop, the walls of which are arranged crosswise, is called crossed (its ancient name is a loop-cross.). Such loops are knitted in a special way from ordinary front and back loops or obtained by connecting front and back loops of different types. For example, if you knit a row of purl loops using method 1, and the next one - with “grandmother's” front loops, then the loops of the previous row will become crossed.

The advantage of crossed loops is that knitting from them is denser and stretches less than from ordinary loops. Therefore, they are recommended to knit socks, mittens and other things that require increased strength. At the same time, crossed loops have a significant drawback: they are turned at some angle to the surface of the fabric, and this causes it to warp (especially hosiery), which limits their use. I would like to warn you about one more thing. Sometimes, for one reason or another, it is necessary to partially dissolve the knitting, and then put the loops on the knitting needle again and continue working.

In these cases, care must be taken to ensure that crossed loops do not appear: sharply different from the usual ones, they violate the surface of the canvas. To avoid this, we advise the following: if, after interrupted work, the row is knitted with facial loops, then perform them in method 1 or 2, depending on how they were planted on the knitting needle: front or back wall to the performer.

When knitting the next row, carefully check if the walls of some loops are crossed, and if such a loop is found, then, without knitting, remove it to the right knitting needle and, turning it, return it to the left.

Edge hinges

The edge of the knitted fabric can be smooth or jagged - it depends on how the edge loops are made.

Figure 6.7 Smooth and jagged edge

smooth edge(Fig. 6) it will turn out if at the beginning of each row the edge loop is removed without knitting, leaving the working thread behind the knitting needle, I knit the last loop on the wrong side (preferably “grandmother's”). This is the most common way to knit edge loops.

jagged edge(Fig. 7) is performed in the same way as even, but only the last loop of each row must be knitted not from the wrong side, but from the front loop behind the front wall. If you need a denser and more durable edge, for example, in vertical buttonholes, belts, then it is better to make it scalloped. On the slats for the fastener, a double hem is sometimes knitted. It looks especially impressive on a garter stitch.

The edge loop consists of two loops and is performed as follows: at the beginning of each row, the edge loop is removed in the usual way, and the adjacent loop is knitted with the front loop behind the front wall. At the end of each next row (from the same edge), the penultimate loop is removed without knitting, while the thread is placed in front of the loop, and

Figure 8

The hem is knitted with "grandmother's" purl. For training, dial 8-10 loops, knit one row with facial loops and mark the right edge of knitting with a colored thread or pin (Fig. 8).

Next, continue to knit all the rows with front loops, performing a double edge from the right (marked) edge, and from the opposite - the usual one. Having connected 3-4 cm, knit one row with an elastic band 1x1 (1 front, 1 purl, etc.) and fasten (close) the loops.

Fastening loops

Loops are fixed in different ways. First, get acquainted with the most convenient and common way. To fasten the loops of the last row, remove the edge, knit the next loop according to the pattern (if it is front, then front, if wrong - wrong); There are 2 loops on the right needle. Insert the end of the left knitting needle from left to right into the hem, pull it towards you and pull the knitted loop into it with the right knitting needle.

Thus, instead of two loops, one loop remained on the right knitting needle. Knit the next loop according to the pattern, on the right knitting needle again 2 loops. With the end of the left needle, pull the 1st loop towards you and pull the 2nd loop into it (Fig. 9). Continue fastening the loops until one loop remains on the right knitting needle, pull it up 6-8 cm, cut the arc and, pulling the end of the thread, tighten it tightly.

There is another way to fasten the loops: at the beginning of the row, knit the first 2 loops together with the front over the back walls and return a new loop to the left knitting needle. This is done with each next pair of loops until the row ends. This technique is not very convenient to fasten the loops according to the pattern, so it is used less frequently than the previous one.

In some cases, you can finish the work with a crochet or needle. I would especially like to highlight the way to finish knitting using an auxiliary thread, since in the future we will often resort to it.

This method is used when it is necessary that the knitting edge remains loose - with open loops. For example, when making a sweater made of thick yarn, it is better not to close the shoulders of the back and front, then they can be connected with a special knitted seam that does not thicken.

As an auxiliary thread, inexpensive cotton darning is used. Having connected the last row with the main thread, it is cut off, an auxiliary thread is put into work and another 4-5 rows are knitted (you can use facial loops). Without closing the loops, knitting is removed from the knitting needle and the edge is ironed. Then all the rows are unraveled from the auxiliary thread - the edge of the part will turn out with ironed open loops (the ironed loops do not “run away”). Often, an auxiliary thread is used not only at the end of work, but also at the beginning of it.

For example, this is how a patch pocket is knitted: after knitting 4-5 rows with an auxiliary thread, it is cut off and knitted further than the main one. The finished knitting is ironed, then the fabric is cut off with scissors from the auxiliary thread, the cotton remnants are removed and the pocket is sewn for open loops with a special seam.

/ 09/02/2017 at 17:47

The fact is that I am a representative of the old school of knitting, and I learned this type of needlework in my childhood from my aunts I know, who at one time studied either in courses or also from someone. Later I mastered some techniques on my own from old books on knitting. And then there was just a lot of practice, since I loved knitting very much and tried to do it at any free time.

So, I was taught to knit with “grandmother's” loops. And if things are somehow easier with the front ones, you knit them either behind the front wall (this is the classic way of knitting the front loop), then behind the back wall (grandmother's way) and there is no particular difficulty with this, then I knitted the purl loops mainly in the grandmother's way (because I just got used to it for so many years!) and didn’t see any special problems with it. Although I knew about the existence of the classic purl and also occasionally used it.

By the way, the term "classic and grandmother's loops" arose relatively recently. And earlier in the literature it was simply found: “purl in the first and second way”, “facial behind the back or front wall (lower or upper lobules)”. Old school knitters probably remember this...

And now, just in case, let me remind you how you can knit purl loops in different ways. This is how the beloved "grandmother's" loop is knitted. Knitting with it, it seems to me, is much easier and faster (the working knitting needle immediately goes on itself):

And so the classic purl loop is knitted (the knitting needle moves away from itself, and the thread does not go immediately under the knitting needle, but, as it were, wraps around it):

What is the difference between them? In fact, only that, depending on the method of knitting, the loops lie on the knitting needle in different ways. Look, after the "grandmother's" she lies on the knitting needle closer to the right side with the back wall:

"Grandma's" purl loop

And after the classic - closer to the right side of the front wall:

Classic purl

And at the beginning, while the sprout is being formed, knitting goes in the usual straight way - along the front and back sides, and after the sprout is already formed, and the number of loops for the front matches the number of loops for the back, I connect the knitting into a circle and continue to knit already .

As the main pattern, I had a “mess”, or as it is also called “pearl knit”, “small rice”. And what was my surprise when I noticed that the same pattern when knitting in a straight and circular way looks completely different! See for yourself, see the difference?

Then I decided to conduct a small study of this "phenomenon" and conducted such an experiment. On a small sample, I first knitted a pattern with “grandmother's” loops, and then switched to classic ones. And here is the result for you:

The lower part of the sample was knitted with “grandmother's” loops, and the upper one with classic ones. There is a difference.

Well, are the conclusions obvious? Knitting with classic loops in certain cases creates a more even and high-quality knitting. Why exactly this happens - I can not explain exactly. It seems to me that this is due to the fact that with the classical method, all knitted loops, both front and back, “lie down” on the knitting needle with the same side, both when knitting in turn rows and in circular knitting. And grandmothers “lie down” in different ways - either with the front or with the back wall - which causes a certain torsion, unevenness. Plus, the parameters of the torsion of the thread also affect.

In a word, there are some physical laws here. But even without a clear understanding of the reason why this is happening, I concluded that in the future I will try to use classic loops, despite many years of habit (well, at least in cases where this is necessary - for example, when knitting a pearl pattern).

And you, my dear, in what way do you knit the wrong side? Share your thoughts, it will be interesting to know. If you, like me, are used to "grandmother's" loops, then maybe we will try to relearn together?

Until we meet again, friends. With love and best wishes, the author of the blog Arinika.

  • P.S. I would like to wish mothers and grandmothers who have schoolchildren wisdom, patience, strength and inspiration in connection with the beginning of the new school year. After all, they are, oh, how needed! Do you agree?

As you know, the whole knitting process is knitting two types of different loops. In the world of threads, yarn and knitting needles, for those who are just starting to learn to knit, it seems that this science is impossible to know. This is not so, knitting is an entertaining simple process that brings pleasure. Let's take a closer look at the purl loops.

Loop structure

Before we start knitting the purl loops, let's deal with the structure of the loop. This will help in the future not to unravel the instructions for knitting all kinds of loops.
And so, each loop, whether it is front or back, has:

  • back and front walls- for them they start a knitting needle for knitting loops;
  • broach- this is the connection of two adjacent loops;
  • loop step- run between loops.

How to knit a purl stitch

Initially, the loops should be dialed, after which you take the knitting needle with the loops cast on it with your left hand. Working yarn before work. Pass the free right needle under the working yarn and insert it into the middle of the loop from right to left.

Hook the working yarn in front of the knitting needle and pull the loop away from you.
This purl loop was made behind the front wall.

Trying to make a crossed purl loop


Very often in the schemes there is a crossed purl loop, but many do not know how to knit it correctly. Therefore, let's try to figure out how to knit such a loop correctly.

Again, we take the knitting needle with the loops cast on it, which will be knitted, with the left hand. Working yarn before work. We introduce the free right knitting needle into the loop from left to right after ourselves. The working yarn should twist this knitting needle from the bottom up and then pull it through the loop. Here, the stitching of the purl loop was behind the back wall.

Patterns from purl loops

Loop to loop and you get a pattern. To get a smooth surface, it is necessary to knit the front rows only with front loops, the wrong ones are glad only with the wrong ones.


The result will be the front surface on one side of the work, and the wrong side on the other. With these loops, you can make all kinds of patterns.

In order to learn to knit, it is enough to learn a few elements that form the basis of all knitting. There are not many of them, but they are, like letters in the alphabet, for beginners to read.

Key elements include:

  1. How to hold the knitting needles correctly;
  2. How to dial loops;
  3. How to knit facial loops with knitting needles;
  4. How to knit purl stitches with knitting needles;
  5. How to close the loops at the end of knitting.

So that the hand does not get tired when knitting, and it is comfortable, you need to be able to hold the knitting needles correctly.




Both in the right and in the left hand, the needle is held the same way.

The size of the needles depends on the thickness of the thread in the yarn. Two thread thicknesses (tighten the thread slightly), equal to the thickness of one knitting needle. Before knitting loops, you need to learn how to dial them on the knitting needles. When dialing loops on the knitting needles, the free end of the thread is on the left.

The size of the free end of the thread is equal to three times the width of the product (for example, for a sock, the free end is equal to 3 ankle circumferences). If you place the free end of the thread on the right, then it should be increased by 2 times the measured value. We put the thread on two fingers (thumb and forefinger), in the form of a “slingshot” and hook the thread with the second knitting needle, as if we are pulling an elastic band in a slingshot, holding it with the index finger of the right hand.


Then we grab the thread from the thumb with a knitting needle, then from the index finger, and tighten 2 loops on the right knitting needle





We collect the following loops according to the previous sample.





It is necessary to dial loops on 2-4 knitting needles at once. Leaving one knitting needle, we take out the rest so that the product does not shrink at the very beginning of knitting.



The first loop, always remove from the left knitting needle, without knitting.



When knitting a front loop

The leading thread is behind the needles.











And the right needle goes through the front half of the loop, grabbing the leading thread.



Knitting a purl loop is distinguished only by the fact that the leading thread is in front of the knitting needles















They are called purl, probably because they are the same front, only from the wrong side. When you knit the front loops and look at the back of the product, you will see the wrong loops. If knit purl, then on the reverse side they will be facial. And by alternating, at the same time, purl and facial, you can form a certain pattern. If you knit only with front loops (however, as well as purl ones), then the product will turn out with voluminous strips along.

Any knitting must be finished sooner or later, if the product is finished, then we remove the first loop, knit the second and stretch it through the first.







When the last loop remains, thread the free end of the thread into it and tighten it. Now you can practice on your own and learn the basic elements in knitting, which include knitting front and back loops with knitting needles. And if everything worked out for you, then the prospect of the art of knitting is open to you! And you can safely proceed to the most interesting ideas in knitting! However, in order not to discourage your desire to knit and create, then start knitting not the most difficult things that you can quickly knit and see the result of your work.