Lazy felting techniques. Dry felting of toys is simple and fun! Dry felting toys: a master class on felting toys on a frame

Funny cover made using felting technique

Felting from wool is a very old type of needlework, which is gaining more and more popularity in our time. The whole secret is in a fairly simple technique, which even a beginner in the art of needlework can master. The dry felting technique allows you to create unusually beautiful crafts, toys, jewelry, clothes, shoes and even paintings.

Felting or felting is the transformation of non-spun wool into dense felt of various shapes and volumes. This happens by entangling wool fibers with a special needle.

The felting process requires attentiveness, a lot of work and perseverance. A big plus is that the felting technique makes it possible to easily correct any shortcomings and omissions during work.

Felting materials and tools

First of all, natural wool is required for felting. Wool of a sheep is more available with us, although wool of a camel, llama, alpaca, angora and cashmere are also suitable.


Necessary materials and tools for work

Wool

There are the following types that we need:

  • Wool wool - cardaches, ideal for felting, since its fibers are already mixed together;
  • Combed ribbon - a combed ribbon of wool with straight long fibers;
  • Sliver is only suitable for the inner part, as the basis of the product, in order to save material. This is a rough, unrefined wool.

For example, for a toy with a large volume, you can use foam rubber instead of a slider.

Types of wool

Natural wool is not the cheapest material and it is better to use it efficiently. Therefore, everything should start with a sketch. It is better to figure out in advance what kind of craft you will start your creativity with in order to buy wool of the desired color. And the main thing is to think over how much your product will be. The fleece of wool when felted decreases three to four times

Needles

To felle any product, it is enough to have 3 special needles.


Needles of different sizes required for felting wool
  • No. 36. Triangular thick needle for main stall.
  • No. 38. Star-shaped medium needle for intermediate work.
  • No. 40. Fine needle for fine detailing.

The needles have special notches that entangle the fibers and knock out the wool, transforming the shapeless cotton wool into a volumetric piece.

It is precisely working with sharp needles that requires caution. It is worth thinking a little, being distracted by the TV and injuries cannot be avoided. Therefore, dry felting is an exercise for strong nerves. And certainly not for children who lack patience at all.

Although, of course, children must be involved in any creative process. In the case of felting, they can participate in decorating the finished item.

Description of needles for work

For safety, it is imperative to work on a substrate. It can be just a felt material, a coarse-bristled brush, or a dense foam sponge.

How is felting

The process of felting wool for beginners is easy to master. Felting consists in quickly piercing a piece of wool. The villi get entangled among themselves, sealing the ball, while with your hands you sculpt from wool, like from plasticine, a certain shape and details.

Wool works

You will discover how pliable and malleable wool can be. One has only to adhere to the basic rules of felting technology.

Work algorithms:

  • Tear off small pieces from the woolen non-spun ribbon. It is advisable to rub them in your palms so that a little of the fibers get tangled. Of these, we approximately form the shape of the future product: an oval, a circle, a ball, a cylinder.
  • We begin to quickly and deeply pierce the part with the thickest needle. In the course of work, the part must be constantly turned over, processing all sides and ends. The fibers are constantly moving among themselves. While the part is soft, you can change the shape with your hands, sculpt the figure. Soon you will see how the surface is leveled, and the part is compacted. Now is the time to change the needle to a thinner one.
  • With a thinner needle, details are worked out and a relief is created. To make a depression, you need to make punctures many times in the same place. To add missing volume or reshape, all you have to do is add some non-spinning pieces where you want them and continue dumping.
  • A part can be considered finished if it does not deform when pressed, i.e. quite dense, the surface looks smooth without visible lint. Next, the surface is sanded. Do not continue piercing if the product is already ready for all indications, otherwise the villi will begin to tear.
  • If the part will join another, then the tips must be left not knocked over. In the future, the free edges are welded to each other. In this way, paws, ears, tails of animals, leaves, wings and other small details are usually made.
  • For identical details, it is better to prepare the same tufts of wool at once. If you start felting each part separately, then it is very difficult to guess with the right amount of material.

Get ready for a very laborious, sometimes monotonous, process before you bring the ball to the desired state. But felting from wool for beginners is so fascinating because there are no schemes and patterns in it, the final result of the sculpture can be strikingly different from the original idea, you can think of something else, change and decorate.

We roll from bunny wool

When the product is almost ready, dense on all sides, without voids and protruding fluff, you can bring it to perfection.

Grinding and decor

The end of the felted craft will be grinding. It is needed so that the product becomes smooth, neat, in general, aesthetically beautiful. To do this, our creation needs to be wrapped, as it were, in a downy cloud. We tear off small pieces from the general bundle of wool and disassemble them into tiny particles, turning them into fluff. Gradually put it on the product and go through every millimeter with the thinnest needle.

At this stage, you can also correct all the shortcomings by adding the required amount of material to the missing places.

Choosing a grinder

With the help of such downy feathers of different colors, decorating the craft is done. A pattern is formed by hands and rolled onto the finished product.

Actually, what we have done up to this point is just a bare base that we will be decorating. Felted wool is a very convenient material for all kinds of combinations with other materials and techniques. So we can embroider on it, sew on something, glue, pierce, paint with acrylic paints.

Beads, buttons, beads, stickers, appliqués made of felt or other fabric, polymer clay, knitted things, for example, a scarf for a toy, can be used as parts.

Toning will help to give a finished look to your cute craft. Of course, it won't come in handy if you're making a purse or slippers. But it will be very appropriate if it is a voluminous toy, brooch, flowers.

Slipper decor

Tinting can be done using crushed pastels or finely crumbled colored pencils. The principle of painting works here. The parts that we want to deepen are painted over with a dry brush in a tone darker than our main color of the product. The ones we want to highlight are lighter.

A felted wool applique can be a beautiful decoration for your things. It is necessary to felle a flat figure separately, then weld it to a base of wool or felt. So unusually you can decorate a sweater, coat, bag, scarf.

Wool works with decor

As you can see, anyone who has a desire to do beautiful things with their own hands can handle felting. In addition, this type of handicraft provides a wide range of ideas for implementation, from a cute keychain to a complex colorful panel.

Felting from wool today is a fairly popular type of creativity. Can I play anything? beads, bags, brooches, phone cases and much more, for which there is enough imagination. But of all the variety of wool products, toys are the cutest and some of them even look like real ones. However, toys never come out like that the first time. As in any business, experience is required here to get a handle on it.

At first glance, it may seem that felting is a very difficult process and a beginner cannot cope with it. However, do not be afraid to start, here the main thing is patience and accuracy. But first, a little theory in order to better understand how the felting process takes place, and then the do-it-yourself master class felted toys.

How is felting

For felting, natural wool, mainly sheep wool, is used. Now it is not a problem to buy it, wool can be found in any store for creativity. It is sold in a variety of colors, qualities and thicknesses. It should also be mentioned that there are two types of wool felting techniques:

Dry felting, the process of which consists in entangling wool with special needles, while the wool is not moistened. Basically, this type of felting is used for the manufacture of bulky items (beads, toys, etc.);

Wet felting is used to make flat products (paintings, scarves, stoles, etc.). In this case, the wool is moistened with a water-soap solution.

More details about wet felting can be found among the many videos on the Internet. In this article, dry felting is considered, because this is the method used to create toys.

Everything you need to know about felting needles

In the process of dry felting, special needles play an important role, because it is with the help of them that the wool fibers get tangled and dumped. The needles come in different diameters and have different sections, each of which is used at different stages of felting. The notches on the needle are positioned in opposite directions, which allows the wool to be felted to a high density.

  • Before starting work, you need to pay attention to some points of work:
  • The needle must be inserted perpendicular to the surface of the coat;
  • Hand movements when sticking the needle, it is important to make clearly and in the same way;
  • During work, the needle should be over the product, and not vice versa;
  • At the initial stage, it is important not to respect the workpiece to its final density, otherwise it will be impossible to work with the product further.

Felting wool toys for beginners: a step-by-step master class

On the Internet, you can find many photos of ready-made felted toys, which will definitely make you want to try to make such a toy with your own hands for yourself or for a gift. Next, we will talk about the most interesting - step-by-step felting of a toy mk from wool. The first step is to prepare everything you need, namely:

  • Wool in the right colors;
  • Beads for eyes or ready-made eyes for toys;
  • Glue for gluing eyes;
  • Felting needles of various diameters and sections;
  • Foam rubber or a special brush to protect the table from scratches.

Depending on what kind of animal you need to create, you may need additional accessories or wire for the frame of the toy, etc.

It is important to remember that during the felting process, the wool decreases significantly in size, so you need to take it twice the intended size of the toy part. Work is always carried out from a larger detail to a smaller one. Therefore, it is better to start with the torso of the future toy. First you need to fluff the wool and twist it into the approximate shape of the part. Now the wool lays down on a brush or foam rubber and is evenly pierced with a needle.

It is very important that at this stage the needle is stuck as deeply as possible, while the wool will fall off inside the workpiece. When the parts of the toy are knocked down, the joints of the parts remain fluffed, not knocked down, so that in the future it would be easier to connect the parts.
After the torso of the toy is ready, the head of the toy is also toppled. To connect the head and the body, the place of attachment of the head is fluffed, the head is inserted into this place and the entire fluffed part tumbles into the head of the toy to obtain a smooth transition from the head to the body.
If it is necessary to add a different color, then the wool of the desired shade is taken, fluffed, applied to the main workpiece and in the same way rolled with a needle until a smooth surface is obtained.

In the same way, the rest of the details of the future toy are created and attached to the body. To form a place for the eyes or other recesses in the product, it is necessary to stick the needle into the right place several times. The more such sticking occurs, the deeper the deepening will turn out.

Further, when all the details of the toy are completely assembled, using the so-called reverse needle, the surface of the product is fluffed up. The final step in creating a toy is decorating it. It all depends on the imagination of the needlewoman. These can be additional eyelashes, bows, beads, etc.

These instructions for felting toys from wool are intended to create only the most basic items. But starting to create toys with your own hands, experience will surely come, excitement and toys will be born more and more complicated and interesting!

Related videos

Dry felting captivates you so much that you want to create again and again. Check out the intricacies of this needlework and a step-by-step master class with step-by-step photos.

Felting needles and auxiliary tools

If you decide to tackle this interesting needlework, you will need special tools. You can buy them at craft stores. First of all, these are needles.


Unlike ordinary sewing machines, these do not have an eyelet, and the opposite sharp end is blunt and bent upwards. The longest needle for felting does not exceed 13 cm. Each needle has its own number and is intended for a certain type of felting.

So, with the help of needles No. 32 – No. 36, initial work is performed. They help to shape the piece of wool, but after such a tool, large punctures remain on the product. Needle number 38 will help to remove them and compact the workpiece. It is also used to finish the product. To polish the decoration, a toy made using the technique of dry felting, a more elegant needle number 40 is used. It will help to finally decorate the product.

Felting needles can be of different sections:

  • triangular;
  • crown;
  • reverse;
  • star-shaped.
Triangular felting needles are most suitable for beginners. These can be used for both the initial and final shaping of the product, its grinding and finishing. Only for each type of work it is necessary to use tools of a different section.

Star-shaped needles are used for polishing toys and decorations. If you need to attach decorative elements to the main product without deforming them, then they work with a crown needle.


If it is necessary for the product to have several shades, then needles are used for felting a reverse section. This shape helps to get a bunch of wool from an already formed blank - from the inner parts of the base.

When you start to dry felted toys, you will need a thick foam sponge, a brush or a special mat for this type of needlework. These soft helpers are needed in order not to break the needle, since if you put the workpiece on a hard surface, stick a game into it, then the tip of that can break. And if you hold the product in your hand and act in this way, you can get injured by an injection.

In addition to some of these soft materials, you can purchase a special needle holder, which is made of wood or plastic and has several holes for felting needles. Thanks to him, the needlework process is accelerated at times, and it is convenient to work with such a tool.


Dry felting of wool is carried out as follows:
  1. Take a ball of wool of the right size, put it on a brush, mat or sponge.
  2. The needle makes many piercing movements so that it pierces deeply, grabs the fibers and pulls them out. This is done until the workpiece acquires the desired shape and density.
  3. Further, other felting needles are used to weld the parts of the product.
  4. Finally, finishing work is being carried out.

The subtleties of wool and how to achieve the desired shades when felting?


In order to make toys, felt boots, using the felting technique, they use sheep's wool. It is relatively inexpensive. But the wool of New Zealand and Australian merino is more expensive.

If you come across wool for felting that says "bleaching", use it as a light shade of the product or base, which you will cover on top with fibers of a different or different shade. But if you want to paint the whitewash at home, you can do it. It will be enough to buy a dye for wool and follow the instructions.

If you need a filler for a toy, on top of which you will roll fibers of the desired color, then get a sliver. It is unpainted wool and is the cheapest.

Fleece can be purchased for stuffing toys. If you come across such a material, it consists of short hairs that remain after combing the wool.

If the stock of the desired shade is not commercially available, do it yourself. To do this, you need to mix wool of two or more colors. If you want to do this at the very beginning of work, then tear off a lump from the wool of the desired color, lightly roll it with a needle. Then wrap a few strands of wool in a different shade and use a reverse needle. With the help of it, you will get out the fibers of the wool that are inside, and slightly fluff the top layer.

In the process, you can put on top of the fibers of wool of other colors to get the desired shades.


If, for example, you want to make a tiger, then to create its stripes, weld the fibers of black wool to the yellow base, rolling them parallel to each other.

Making a doll with your own hands

After you've learned which felting needles, wool, auxiliary tools to use, it's time to put the theory into practice! Felting will help you create soft toys.

If this is your first job, felting wool for beginners is best done by making a simple but spectacular doll, for example, this one.


Its basis is a wire frame. Thanks to him, it will be possible to bend her arms and legs and give the desired position. For work, prepare:
  • chenille wire 22 cm long;
  • wool;
  • sponge or brush;
  • needles for felting: triangular section No. 38 and No. 40, star-shaped No. 40.
From a piece of wire, make 2 segments - 14 and 8 cm. Bend the first one in half - you have a right and left leg. Take the second, smaller piece, bend it slightly in half, and slide one half over the middle of the first piece of wire. Raise the smaller one up, twist both sides of it (this will be the body), but not completely. Separate the right and left branches - these are the doll's arms. Give your arms and legs the desired position by bending the wire at the elbows and knees.

We begin to add volume to the toy. Wrap strands of light wool around the frame and roll them with a needle. In place of the body, hands, wool should go a little more. Now tear off a ball of the same light wool, turn it with a needle into a rather tight ball, but leave the lower part of it as it was at the beginning. This strand will become the neck, roll it to the upper torso. If this neck piece is undersized, add some more wool and thicken it with a felting needle.

Now it's time to dress up this ballerina doll. Place the fibers of pink wool on top of her body, rolling them in with a 40 needle. For the skirt, place the strands of wool from top to bottom, rolling them around the waist. Then cut off the hem with scissors. It remains to make a hairdo, shoes, and rejoice, looking at what a beautiful doll the felting technique and your skillful hands helped to create.

Felting a monster from wool master class

Further, a detailed description will be presented with step-by-step photos. They will help you make a toy with your own hands. Then you will be able to come up with and develop sketches of fabulous, cartoon characters, animals, animals, people yourself and make them using the dry felting technique.


You will get such an interesting toy, of course, it may differ in color and size. Here is what is suggested to be used for needlework:
  • non-spun wool of the main and auxiliary colors;
  • felting needles numbered: 36, 38, 40;
  • sponge or foam rubber;
  • for tinting - pastel crayons and a brush;
  • paper;
  • two beads for the eyes;
  • colour pencils.


This is what the felting of a monster toy consists of:

Draw a sketch of the future product on paper in order to determine what it consists of, as usually the parts are rolled separately and then connected. Here, the torso and the head are a single whole, and the arms, legs and decorative elements are made and rolled separately.


Tear off a ball from the main wool, separate it with your hands in different directions, so that a fluffy homogeneous mass is formed from the fibers.


The ball of wool should be much larger than the final piece, since during felting it will become several times smaller.


Take a thick needle No. 36, start to felting the wool with it to first form it into a round ball, at the same time making the workpiece quite dense, without voids. Then use your fingers to shape it into a pear-shaped shape so that the thickening is at the bottom.


If you need to add a little wool, use a thick needle to weld it on.


Take a No. 38 needle, puncture the surface of the monster's body into an even shape, sanding it with this tool.


We continue to study with an example how step-by-step felting is done. Now we have to make the legs of the toy. For the first, also tear off a piece of wool. Give it a "sausage" shape with your hands, and make it wider at the bottom, since there will be palms or feet. Now shape the workpiece first with a thick one and then with a thinner needle.


It's time to mark the fingers of the toy with a thin needle. Work them out using a thin cruciform needle. In the same way, arrange the toes on the remaining second pair of feet.


Then make the 2 remaining legs


As you can see, from the side opposite to the fingers, we are not yet rolling the fur. Such fluffy is needed in order to connect them to the body.


Place each foot in its place, weld to the body with a thick needle, straightening the fibers well, then sand the surface with a thin one. If the junction of the parts is too visible, it did not work out neatly, this is fixable. Place some wool in here, weld it in with a # 36 needle, and then sew over that section with a # 38 needle.


Now we start to create the facial features of the toy. Take 2 small white pieces of wool, felle each loose lump with a # 36 needle, then attach these proteins to your face using a # 38 needle.


In the same way, attach green balls of wool to these proteins, glue a bead to them - these will be the pupils.


Make an original hairstyle from colored wool, attach it to your head with a needle or glue. In the latter case, you need to immediately do everything as planned. After all, then this area will no longer be possible to work out with a needle.


The mouth can be embroidered with black thread, and you can also draw shades of the face with crayons to make it even more interesting. You can crush them and apply with a brush or use colored pencils. Felting toys is a creative process, decorate them as you like and enjoy the results!


Such hand-made souvenirs can be presented to friends, or you can make a pleasant hobby a source of additional income. After all, few people work in this technique yet. To make you love felting even more, the video of creating toys will help you. Watch the stories and choose the product that you want to create right now!

How to make a northern bear using the dry felting technique, see this video:

Felting from wool.

Felting or felting is an interesting craft technique that is gaining momentum. Using the dry felting technique, you can create unusual figurines, souvenirs, jewelry, decor items and accessories. Felting is an original mixture of sculpture and handicraft, which allows the master's creative imagination to unfold as much as possible.

(Master Kristina Mayorova)

Dry felting tools

Let's take a look at what we need for dry felting for beginners.

  • Needles


For dry felting, you will need special serif needles. Since when sticking such a needle into the wool, pieces of wool fibers catch on the serifs and get tangled with each other. There are several different needles for different types of stalls and work stages:

The shape of the cross section of the needles are triangular, three-beam and four-beam (asterisks)

If you notice, there are special serifs on each edge of the felting needle blade, and thus, the more edges, the more serifs, and the faster the felting process takes place. It is worth adding that the accuracy of the holes left by it depends on the section of the needle.

In the direction of the serifs, there are needles for felting straight and reverse


Forward felting needles push the fiber into the product, and reverse needles pull the wool fiber out of the product, this is used to make a product from felting and correct it.

Felting needles also differ in numbers. For example, the higher the needle number, the thinner it is. So felting needles numbered 30,32,36 are rough, these needles are used at the initial stage of felting. Thick needles for felting have a thicker blade, due to which they cover a slightly larger area, and quickly pull the wool fibers into the depth of the product, thereby quickly dumping the dense felting base, however, they leave behind distinct, large puncture marks that are unacceptable on the finished product. Therefore, in order to avoid traces of punctures during felting, thin needles numbered 38 - 42 are used. Also, for finishing the product, you need to use asterisk cross-section needles, because the punctures after them look neater and less noticeable.

  • Felting mat

Dry felting needles are very sharp and rather long, during felting they can easily pierce the felt product through, and the work surface, for example, a table, will be scratched accordingly. Therefore, in order not to injure yourself and not break the needle on the hard surface of the furniture, a special felting backing or felting mat is used.

Most often, an ordinary thick foam sponge is used as a felting mat. The disadvantage of using a washcloth: in the process of felting the notches at the end of the felting needle, pieces of foam rubber are pulled out of the washcloth, which later get stuck between the felted wool fibers. This, as you can imagine, causes significant damage to the wool product.

Often in the work you can find felting pads, or the so-called "felting rugs", which are made of polyethylene foam. Such felting mats are much more durable and of better quality than the sponges described above. A big plus: each side of such a felting mat has a surface designed for different types of felting wool.

For beginner needlewomen using the felting technique, we recommend using a foamed polyethylene film, in which ordinary household appliances are packed. If your passion for the dry felting technique outgrows something more, switch the felting backing to a more professional one.


Another option for dry felting is a brush mat. It is quite expensive, but the felting brush is the most convenient for use as a backing for dry felting, because special synthetic fiber bristles do not impede the movement of the needle and at the same time do not allow the felting needle to come into contact with the hard surface of the desktop , thereby preventing damage to the needle.


An inexpensive alternative to a professional mat brush is a regular bristle brush. This type of brush is quite suitable for beginners' dry felting experience.

Rule: Before reusing the mat brush, carefully remove the wool fibers that remain between the bristles, otherwise the next product will mix wool.

  • Felting thimbles

Use leather or rubber thimbles to prevent fingers from being punctured when felting with wool.

  • Wool for felting

For dry felting, natural wool is used for felting. Felting wool differs in thickness - the smaller the number of microns, the thinner the wool. Wool is thin, semi-fine and coarse . Semi-thin dyed wool is best suited for dry felting, you should not take too thin merino wool, it will quickly collapse with a needle, leading to a distortion of the product, which is almost impossible to fix.

For the base of toys, in order to save money, they often use cheaper unpainted wool of poor quality, this wool is called Sliver. Then it is rolled with the main wool.


  • Combed tape

Combed ribbon is straight, elongated wool fibers neatly laid in a long ribbon in one direction for felting.


Before felting, the wool must be strongly mixed up. The better the fibers are entangled, the more efficient and neat the felting process will be, you can do this with a brush for combing animals or by repeatedly pulling and shifting the fibers “cross-to-cross”.


  • Cardoches (wool wool)

Carding is a ready-made mass of wool for felting, consisting of matted fibers, thanks to which the carding quickly falls off and saves the craftsman's time by eliminating the need to pre-prepare the wool for felting. Great for beginner needlewomen.


Here are some useful tips and rules from the felting master Kristina Mayorova.

  • Use quality needles.
  • Insert the needle perpendicular to the felted surface
  • Take your time to work
  • Remember that the needle goes much deeper than you think
  • Quick and sharp strokes with the needle will not speed up the process. This will break the needle and damage the wool fibers.
  • Insert the needle deep into the center, try to pull the wool fibers inward, then at first it will create density inside the wool craft, and gradually the outer layers of the product will begin to thicken.
  • When the needle enters a wool product, you should hear a sound like a crunch
  • A product is considered sufficiently resilient when it does not change its shape at all when pressed. To do this, knock on the table with your fingers, and then with the product, if the sound of the knock is the same, then the dump is a success.
  • When grinding the product, use a thin needle with an asterisk section, the punctures should be close to each other
  • Remove any irregularities in places where you cannot drop strands, attach small pieces of tangled wool and sand the product.
  • When using the reverse needle, you should also carefully make punctures close to each other.
  • The parts of a wool product are connected by rolling them to each other, for this it is necessary to leave the joint fluffed, then we thread the loose fibers of one part into another part with a needle. After that, we strengthen the junction of the parts - we lay it with a bundle of wool, fill it up and grind
  • When working, we take into account that the wool falls off by about a third
  • For paired parts, immediately prepare the same amount of wool for felting

Wool felting workshop for beginners video

The text was prepared by: Veronica

Instructions

Draw a toy on paper. Create her image in the smallest details, determine the dimensions of all the component parts of the craft, how to attach them. In order not to be distracted during work by measuring the part with a ruler, prepare in advance. On thick cardboard, draw the outline of a part of the required size, cut a hole along this outline. During felting, it will be possible to lay the workpiece into the hole and adjust it to the desired size.

Prepare your work area and tools. Since the wool is pierced during operation, the table must be protected from scratches and the needles from breakage. It is enough to get a brush on which the details are processed. If you do not want to spend money on a special brush, replace it with dense and thick enough foam rubber. Buy some felting needles. They vary in size. The larger the toy you are making, the larger the needle should be. The thinnest needles are used to work out small details.

The coat is significantly reduced in size after the felting procedure. Therefore, take a piece that is about 2 times the size of the future toy part. Divide the wool into individual fibers, tear them several times to create a fluffier mass. Such material will fall off better, more evenly. Roll the approximate shape of the part from the fluffy mass. Put it on a brush or foam rubber and begin to roll away, piercing it over the entire surface with a needle. The needle should go in and out of the coat at the same angle. To make the product even, try to dot the piece of wool with needle pricks as evenly as possible.

To make a large toy, you can use a synthetic winterizer. It needs to be torn into fibers, rolled up, wrapped on top with wool of the desired color and then rolled away. This will save you material costs. The longer you process the wool with a needle, the denser, smoother and smaller the part will become.

To add a color spot or reshape the base, lay an extra layer of wool on top of it and work with a small diameter needle. Thus, you can "draw" an expressive face on the toy.

Do not process the junction of the part with the base, it should remain soft. During the assembly of the product, you can weld the part so that this area completely "merges" with the shape of the base. If you are unable to align the joint, try masking it. Spread thin layers of wool on this area and use a thin needle to remove. Build up layers until the surface is sufficiently flat.