Reed and products from it. Reed weaving is very beautiful. Reed products as a business
It's summer now and you can make beautiful braids from reeds. The reeds are now growing up, so we will make beauty out of reeds and straw. In these ways, you can even weave from newspaper tubes.
Reed basket
Like candy bowls and breadbaskets, various kinds of baskets can be weaved from reed stalks. Household baskets are often made of willow, but a fairly strong, lightweight and comfortable basket can also be woven from reeds.
The bottom is woven from 12-14 longitudinal reed stems, intertwining them with 6-8 transverse ones. The number of stems depends on the expected size of the product.
The handles of the finished basket are braided with a "finishing" lash using straw or reeds. As always, the use of reeds of different colors and shades improves the aesthetic characteristics of the basket.
Making flower pots
The bottom of the pots cannot be made using the methods described above, since there must be a hole in it for water to drain.
To weave the bottom of a flower pots, the ends of 14-16 reed shoots are intertwined with two or three rows of "strings", spreading them out along the radii. The subsequent rows are performed with a simple "weaving", and the "string" is again addressed, starting to weave the base of the walls. Weaving can be carried out directly on the pot on which it will be installed.
Braiding bottles
Once upon a time, in the pre-polymer, pre-polymeric era, almost the only way to protect a bottle from blows was to braid it with reeds or straw.
The reed is light and porous, it serves as a reliable thermal insulation, keeping it cool for a long time even on a hot day.
In any novel of the 17th-19th centuries, there is certainly a "bottle of good wine wrapped in straw". But now these traditions are forgotten. Meanwhile, braiding a bottle is relatively easy and simple.
Of course, in the same way, you can braid various kinds of cylinders and cans; Of course, the larger you choose the glass product, the thicker and stronger the reed stems used in its sheathing should be. In some cases, it is desirable to introduce a rope into the structure of the whip to increase its strength. In addition, if you decide to braid, for example, a ten-liter cylinder, do not forget about the need to install handles, for which you need to provide independent elements of power fastening
The bottom of the braids of the bottles is made in the already described way, then the bottle is placed on it, the racks are raised along the walls of the bottle and they are braided with straw or reeds. Braiding the bottle, craftsmen attach a handle to it, and sometimes a wooden neck.
The simplest way to make a handle is to weave a suitably curved willow rod into the braid, for strength at the top it is folded around the neck of the bottle, firmly fastened with twine, at the bottom - it is woven into a "string" running along the base of the bottom. On top, the rod is braided with a finishing braid.
As long as the walls of the bottle remain vertical, the number of braided racks does not change either. In the same place where the bottle begins to taper, the racks begin to gradually remove one by one, carefully cutting them off so that the whip continues to remain closely pressed against the neck. There will be very few racks at the neck of the bottle. Here two or three rows of "string" are knitted and the racks are sealed into its thickness using a lacing awl.
Weaving "bow"
Until now, when weaving, we connected the branches of the base in many at once, one after the other, directing the trunks that braid them across them all. But there is another way of weaving, when only two branches of the base are connected, along the entire length, and only then they move on to the next, neighboring pair. In this case, the braiding stems, of course, are generally directed not across, but along the stems of the base. This simple and convenient way to weave "grass lace" is called "knot" or "bow".
The meaning of the technique lies in the fact that, having covered two adjacent stems of the base with one loop, this loop is not then hidden, but, on the contrary, is revealed by wrapping it several times with the same connecting twine (or straw). By somewhat "arranging" the branches of the spiral, which is the base, this method of weaving allows you to fill significant planes with elegant openwork weaving.
The density of weaving can be changed by increasing or decreasing the distance between the "bows".
When weaving in a spiral, the diameter of the circle increases with each new turn. A very elegant picture is obtained in this case, if, slightly changing the distance between the bows, you try to make one bow in the previous turn of the spiral there are two bows in the next thread. The entire plane is permeated with a single rhythm.
Of course, the base of the whip can be laid not with a round spiral, but, for example, with a rectangular or zigzag, without changing anything in the weaving method itself. This will lead to new, original and interesting surface filling options.
Rectangular bag
The proposed weaving technique can be applied to making a rectangular bag. It is woven from three parts - one, large, represents both wide walls and the bottom at once, the other two are the right and left walls. In addition, a long ring rope (or a bundle of plant fibers) is braided with straws - these will be the handles of the future bag and the decoration of its side edges.
Round bag
Two round parts of the same diameter and one long part are weaved, the width of which will determine the width of the bag. Between themselves, they are connected by flexible stems of rush or cattail. For round parts, the base is laid in a spiral, for narrow parts - in a zigzag. Of course, a much thinner rope should be put at the base of the whip than when we were doing the rugs! Since the weave needs to be strong enough, each knot is tightened as tightly as possible. Particular attention should be paid to the handles of the bag. At their base, you need to put two willow rods or steel wire, and then braid them especially tightly and carefully so that the base material does not shine through anywhere.
If you decide to make the frames of the handles from a willow twig, you need to achieve their uniformity. They do it like this. After steaming the rod, several rings are weaved out of it, fixing them in a saucepan or barrel of a suitable size. There they must dry - in the sun, on a stove or on a radiator.
Of course, as always, the bag will look more attractive if straw of two or three shades is used in the weaving; as always, while the master is required to taste, a sense of harmony and decorative expressiveness.
Vase for flowers
These are not household items, like a basket, but interior decorations, therefore, the aesthetic requirements for them are higher: geometrically correct shapes, precise choice of proportions, impeccable weaving. Of course, select material must also be used.
For the bottom, take a wooden block, into the drills of which the base reeds are inserted. A significant amount of flowers on a long arm can pose a serious danger to the stability of the vase, therefore it is necessary to insert a load into the bottom - a piece of lead of the required shape. It is easy enough to cast it at home. The correct shape of the vase can be obtained using a template of the required taper.
|
Rice. 131-132. Vases of flower vases |
|
At the very base, the reeds are woven with a "string" in two, and preferably in three ends. Continuous weaving can then be alternated with lattice. If you have chosen a vase that expands significantly upwards, as the diameter increases, you will need to add additional uprights. Before the completion of the product, the "rope" is braided again. Weaving ends with a border.
Unlike the usual "asterisk", in this case the bottom is woven from reed stalks in a checkerboard pattern; the protruding ends of the reeds form the racks of the walls of the dish. If necessary, having finished weaving the bottom, you can add additional ones to the lash next to the previous racks. All racks are alternately braided with straw stalks or also with reeds, laying them in a whip in as dense rows as possible. In the middle of weaving, you can knit one or two rows for strength with a "string"; this weaving method is described below.
Having knitted the last row, they begin to seal the sides. The easiest way to do this is by pulling the end of each rack into the lash next to the adjacent rack. It is convenient to do this with a lacing awl (with which the balls are lacing): it is pushed along the rack where the next reed is supposed to be removed, this reed is threaded through the awl hole and pulled into the whip. You can pull them in tightly, or not very much, leaving small loops of equal sizes along the edges. There, the edge of the bread bin will be decorated with a decorative pattern.
Various kinds of vases, rusks, trays, etc. from reeds and similar materials have, first of all, decorative, aesthetic meaning, therefore it is so important to arrange their outer edge in an unusual, bright, openwork manner. This end is called a curb. A lot of borders of various types have been developed, which form the edge of the wicker product. Below are some sample borders. Of course, every master can invent his own, new, original border. The bends of the racks can be done both along an arc of a circle and at an angle; you can fix the free ends in the whip through one stand, and through several. The height of these folds can be either the same or rhythmically alternating. In order to clearly identify this rhythm, it is advisable, when tightening the free end, to put a template of one, two or several different types under it.
Awl lacing can be purchased at any sporting goods store. But it is not so difficult to make it with your own hands: a knitting needle is heated in the middle and, slowly cooling the metal, bend it in half. The sharp ends are connected and driven into a wooden handle.
Two hoops of the same diameter are made from willow or from thick wire braided with reeds or straws. They are tied at right angles, in the lower half, additional supporting arcs are substituted (two or three in each quarter), braiding them in both nodes with strong reeds. In the course of weaving, new arcs of the frame are substituted, based on the fact that the distance between them is more or less constant. Weave from both knots towards the middle.
Straw caskets
Another miracle that can be created from straw stars and volumetric (finishing) braids is straw boxes. Golden, like bread in a field with their delicate silky shine, they can become an adornment of both a modest apartment and the interior of a company that carries out renovation twice a year. Their curly braided clasps, handles, their planes, permeated with a breaking and at the same time clear rhythm, can tell a lot of unexpected and unpredictable things to the heart of those who hold their gaze on them ...
It would seem that they contain braided rhombs, dismembered by the rhythm of matte gleaming stems, and a twisted round straw plait with its repetitive, carefully worked out small details ... The play of light and shade, providing subtle tonal color transitions ... But somewhere between their connections, this decorative and plastic solution of volume conceals not only a sense of the beauty of the material, but also ... love for one's steppe, for one's Motherland.
The box should appear to be woven from straw, but in reality it is not. A decorative box is assembled from two types of basic elements: woven straw squares (rhombuses, sometimes, less often, triangles or hexagons), and twisted (finishing) straw lash, which is used to decorate the joints of these squares. Often the box is assembled on a cardboard or wooden frame, which also includes a hinged hinged lid. Sometimes they do it even easier: they decorate a finished box with a lid with a straw whip. Of course, the skill of the performer lies in the fact that the user does not suspect this: the box should seem to him solid. In this case, the box should be light, openwork, with a beautiful pattern of diagonal lines of interweaving of the inner sides of the squares.
Straw squares are often woven on a frame made of thin round sticks, reeds, or vine twigs.
Sometimes, especially if the squares are supposed to be not flat, but convex, it is convenient to use wire for the frame; it can be reliably camouflaged by threading it into a straw.
A twisted cord made of 5 straws is woven on a wire frame. It should be long enough; however, only the total length is important, because when assembling the box, this cord is cut into pieces of the required length. Of course, the color, size and weaving pattern in all parts of the cord must be identical, otherwise the feeling of the integrity of the box is smeared.
Before starting work, you must have an accurate drawing of the box indicating all dimensions. When assembling the box, keep in mind that the actual dimensions of the straw parts may differ from the design ones by two to three millimeters in either direction.
The bottom and the lid are assembled from squares and placed in a frame made of twisted lash. The assembly is carried out using proven methods: threads and glue. The walls of the box are assembled on a ready-made bottom. Typically, each of the walls consists of two or more straw squares.
The dividing lines of the squares and the edges of the box are decorated with a vertical stand made of a twisted lash, the same lash in which a wire or rail is hidden, which gives rigidity to the box, run along the joints of the wall with the bottom, and from above, where this lash neatly holds all four walls. The lid is attached to the back wall of the box either with thread "loops" in at least two places, or, better, with a strip of soft leather that matches the color and texture. The lid should be free to swing back and not dangle on the hinges. When sewing it, pass the needle not between the straws of the twisted finishing lash, but behind the wire or wooden "stiffener" that is hidden inside it.
|
Rice. 105. Candy bowl |
The options for the shapes and sizes of boxes can be very different. Known round and oval, rectangular and hexagonal boxes Changing the size of wicker squares, their number at the base and on the walls, using convex pyramid squares, varying the thickness of the twisted braid and the number of its rows at the base, on the lid and walls, it is possible to achieve originality in such products ... Curly braided handles and fasteners made of twisted braids give the boxes a great decorative effect.
Of course, if you need to replicate a product while maintaining an impeccable shape and standard size, you cannot do without templates. Some masters prepare rigid frames and shapes, rectangular, round, oval. Another uses overhead hoops and frames (clasps). And the third one had enough patterns.
Rope weaving
The meaning of weaving with a "string" is that not only the longitudinal struts are braided with transverse fibers (straw or reeds), but they are also intertwined with each other. We twist a string of reed stalks, as it were, tightly covering each stalk with them.
Two "strings", woven side by side in opposite directions, are called "herringbone", because they form just such a pattern.
Several types of "string" weaving are known. Typically, their types are distinguished by the number of used transverse elements: "rope" in two, three or more straws. Several options for weaving with "string" are shown in the figures. In order for the rows of weaving to go continuously in a spiral, the number of racks must be odd.
When weaving with a "string" or "herringbone" in three straws, the consumption of materials increases by one and a half times and the products, accordingly, turn out to be noticeably heavier, but also noticeably stronger.
The racks at the basket can be sparse enough; usually take twelve to sixteen fairly long stems of reeds. At the base there is a "checkerboard" braid 3 x 3 or 4 x 4, then the bottom is woven by simple weaving in a spiral.
The beginning of the side is woven with a string, then they again go on to simple weaving. At a certain height, weaving is stopped, and the racks are twisted in pairs with each other. In this place, it is recommended to weave one or two turns with a "bow" around the entire perimeter (see below). This technique, which gives the walls an openwork look, is repeated several times, alternating with simple weaving or "string" weaving.
It is advisable to knit the last, upper threads with a "string", in two or three rows. Then the sides are carefully closed, pushing the end of each rack into the lash next to the adjacent one. This operation is done with an awl-lacing.
Household products
Using the same technology, but varying the shape and size, you can weave various kinds of candy bowls and bread bins. The first few rows of the side wall are woven with a "string", then alternately go to simple and openwork weaving. It is recommended to braid two or three rows with a "string" after six to eight rows of simple weaving. It is not recommended to start weaving the openwork border too low.
|
Rice. 113. Sugar Bowl |
Sometimes a seemingly insignificant change in the tilt or bend of the stem, replicated in the lash, repeated many times in the design of the edge of the product, leads to an unusual effect that causes a new aesthetic impression. And isn't this called "giving people joy", isn't this the real goal of any master?
Top edge decoration
The sealed edge of the product is woven with a "rope" or "herringbone" pattern. Then the ends of the racks are embedded in it, where they are cut off. End termination options are very diverse, some of which are listed below.
In the manufacture of various kinds of bread bins and rusks, one should remember that they need to be periodically cleaned from crumbs. If the crumbs remain in them, clogging up cracks and crevices, cockroaches can appear in your home. Therefore, the selection of stalks of reeds, cattail or calamus used in these crafts should be treated with particular care. They should certainly not be cracked. In addition, it is good to cover these products with varnish, which eliminates not only cracks in the material, but also hides weaving leaks.
http://www.traditions.ru/books/pletsol/glava%205-3.htm
Once upon a time in Russia weaving from reeds, cattails, reeds and other similar plant materials was a thriving trade. Craftsmen-matchers in matting huts made mats, coolies, sails, seats for chairs, and much, much more.
In our time, such an occupation has become not a profession, but rather an exciting occupation, the result of which is cute slippers, dish coasters, covers for flower pots, "shatterproof" bottles braided with reeds, etc.
Coasters for hot dishes.
Coasters for hot dishes, woven of reeds and cattails, are durable and longevity. You can safely put hot dishes on them without fear of damaging the oilcloth or tablecloth: the leaves of the cattail and especially the porous trunk of the reeds are poorly permeable to heat and are excellent heat insulators. In addition, the dishes are placed on such a support without the annoying clanging of metal supports. It is also important that a hot kettle or saucepan will not slide off the support, even if the table, for some reason, suddenly tilts strongly. The service life of the reed and cattail stands, of course, with an careful attitude towards it, is not less than ten to fifteen years.
Begin to make a stand using a simple checkered weave (fig. 6).
Rice. 6 Weaving the crockery stand: a- attachment of the reed for the "rope"; b and v- formation of a "rope"; G- sealing the sides with a lacing awl.
Twelve reeds are intertwined at right angles to each other. Then they take a new reed, bend it around one of the extreme racks of a simple whip (Fig. 6, a) and form a "string" around the latter, alternately braiding all 24 free ends (stands), trying to form a correct circle as a result (Fig. 6, b and c). In order for the "string" to be caught in a circle, they try to tighten it as tightly as possible at the corners of the whip. When you finish the first round of the "string", which is the most difficult, the second row is much easier to weave.
When you make three or four turns of the "string", it is not forbidden to go to simple weaving. But in order for the rows of such weaving to go continuously in a spiral, it is necessary to have an odd number of racks. In this case, the stand has 24 racks fanned out in a circle, so just cut off one rack or add another one.
Decide for yourself what to do: if the racks are too dense, then it is better to remove one rack, and if it is free, add it. To insert an additional post, a new reed is pushed next to any original post using an awl with a special hole at the end (we will talk about the awl design a little later).
Now all the racks, including the additional one, if it is provided, alternately pass through the "circular" reed, tracing it sequentially around each of the racks and forming as many rows as the size of the stand requires. Unlike weaving with "string" here, the reeds are not twisted, but only try to lay them in fairly dense rows. But for strength, the last turn is again made with a "string".
Having finished weaving, they begin to seal the sides. In the simplest way of termination, the end of each post is simply pulled into the lash next to the adjacent post. A lacing awl is pushed "from the center" along one of the racks (Fig. 6, d), insert the end of the adjacent rack into its hole and pull it inside. Then the awl is guided along the next rack and the end of the previous one is pulled into the whip ... All other ends of the racks are closed in the same way.
The racks can be pushed into the whip and not completely, but small loops can be left along the edges. Moreover, the loops are optionally made either rectangular or triangular. By the way, for the decorative design of the stand, it is effective to use both loops at once. To get a loop, smooth the stand with the awl handle so that it becomes flat, and sharpen the end with scissors. Having inserted an awl along the rack, the sharp end of the rack is inserted into the hole of the latter and pulled into the lash, leaving only a small loop, which is straightened so that a triangle (Fig. 7) or a rectangle is obtained.
Rice. 7 Sealing the sides of the whip: a- work with a lacing awl; b- triangular loop.
Oval stand for "gosyatnitsa".
Weave in the same way as round. The only difference is that not the same, but a different number of stems are weaved at right angles to each other. For example, to weave a stand whose width would be half the length, the number of reeds located vertically should be twice as many as horizontally. But back to our awl. First, it is easy to use lacing instead, with which soccer and volleyball balls used to be lacing. They are also sold in sports stores. Secondly, such an awl-lacing is not so difficult to do with your own hands (Fig. 8).
Rice. 8 Lacing awl.
A nail is driven into a wooden handle, the cap is chopped off and the end is flattened. Glowing the flattened end red-hot over the fire, allow it to cool slowly and cut a slot along the center line with a chisel. Then the punched hole is widened and filed with a file. The finished awl is sanded with a fine-grained sandpaper. A simpler construction of an awl is also known, which can be made from scrap materials even by those who do not have the skills to work with metal. The knitting needle is heated in the middle, and when the metal has cooled, bend it in half. The ends joined together are sharpened and hammered into a wooden handle. With the help of such an awl, it is not only possible to thread new racks, but also to close up the sides of various products woven from herbs.
Reed is an incredibly cheap material that you can prepare yourself if you want. But few people know that a huge number of all kinds of household items can be prepared from reeds: baskets, vases for bread and sweets, hats, trays for small patients of the Biokontrol veterinary clinic and much more.
If you are going to make a product in large sizes, you should choose a special reed cattail. Its stems are arrow-shaped and are of sufficient length. But for small boxes and vases, a special arrowhead is prepared, which makes it possible to make the weaving more sophisticated.
If you've never weaved reeds before, it makes sense to start with a simple bread plate. It is important to be very careful when working with reeds. When separating the leaves from the stem, try not to wrinkle them, as this also deteriorates the appearance. To make the leaves separate from the reeds quickly and easily, soak the material for work in water for an hour and a half before weaving, and then wrap it with a damp cloth for the same period of time.
Leaves for weaving must be taken through a cloth, flattened and only then stretched between the fingers - this will make it possible to remove moisture and air from the sheet, which will be superfluous in your work. After preparing the reeds, it is worth choosing what size plate you want to weave. For the template, you can use a real plate of similar dimensions or a saucepan.
Focusing on the diameter of the future plate, and also taking into account its height, cut the required number of reed leaves, starting from the part that is closer to the stem - it is much wider than the top. Also keep in mind that the leaves should be a few centimeters longer than your template so you can tuck in the tips.
The first four leaves of reeds are laid out close to each other - they will serve as racks for your future craft. Step back to the right of the beginning of the leaf about 1/3 of its length and bend the first and third leaves upwards in this place. Then, one vertical is pushed between two pairs of horizontal leaves. After the sheet is pushed in, place your palm on it with an edge. Now bend up the second and fourth horizontal sheets and in the same way insert another vertical one under it.
Repeat this procedure two more times, so that you have a square in the middle, which in its shape is somewhat reminiscent of a chessboard. Our racks are ready!
Now, in the leaves of the reeds, thinner sheets should be selected, which will be necessary for weaving. For weaving, the leaves of the very rack of the future plate are slightly moved apart so that they resemble the rays of the sun (at the same distance from each other). A loop and a prepared thin sheet is thrown onto one of the racks, which closes crosswise. Next, we begin to gradually "wrap" all the ends of the rack in a circle. Weaving continues until the thin sheet ends - after that, a new sheet is placed in its place and weaving continues. As a result, you get a plate that resembles a basket of thin flagella. When you have reached the required height for the sides of the plate, the remaining ends of the rack are tucked in such that they do not protrude from the outside of the plate.
To fix the weaving and make it more symmetrical, you can use a thin, sharp wooden stick that can be used to move or slightly widen the loops. At the end of the work, leave the plate to dry thoroughly!
Material preparation
Reeds and other marsh plants are harvested in June-July or September. The stems of this plant are very fragile, so it is better to harvest them in small bunches. Cut and harvested stems must be dried before storage, for example, hung under a canopy or folded in bunches in the attic so as not to expose them to sunlight. If the sun's rays hit the stems, they fade, lose their natural color and become too fragile.
Choosing reeds for crafts, you can easily build not only baskets and hats, but even slippers. The world of crafts made from this material is very diverse, so you don't even need to think about it, but you need to start doing them! Numerous master classes and work schemes are not uncommon for modern needlewomen and craftsmen. Here are some inspiring photos:
Next, we will learn how to weave a basket for small things with our own hands. This master class was created in order to teach you how to use simple little things for the construction of crafts and learn a lot of new and useful information. With the correct implementation of all the recommendations, you can perfectly master the technique of making products from reeds and cattail leaves.
Weaving a basket: step by step instructions.
Your small basket is ready! Enjoy it!
The manufacture of a fence made of reeds deserves special attention. It will have an attractive appearance, at the same time, it will be inexpensive and very easy to prepare materials. How to weave a reed fence, we will consider further.
Features of work
A reed fence is a natural and rather original fence.
We start with the preparation of the material. Reed grows almost everywhere near rivers and is harvested in September-October. During this period, the plant has a period of optimal height, which is important when constructing a fence. Before starting weaving, you need to make a simple workbench table for making mats. The length of your table should match the height of the future fence. We spread the material on the table in a thick layer in the range from 15 to 20 cm. Then we lay out the boards on it, with the help of which the stems of the plant are fixed. Next, we perform the firmware. It is very similar to the firmware of an ordinary broom.
Before making a wicker fence out of reeds, you should think about the fastening system of the fence. You can use a variety of materials, such as wooden beams. But better and more reliable are metal poles or pipes. We attach the finished, sewn mats to the posts using wire. The fence must be treated with a special protective fire-fighting agent, since the reed flares up like a match under certain conditions. There are various manufacturing variations. For example, you can make a fence with alternating use of sections, as well as the use of branches and mats. An excellent option can be done using a netting.
Decorating methods
The fence made with this material is in itself a very decorative and original structure. In order to make your fence more unusual and give the structure a characteristic rustic atmosphere, you need imagination and various additional elements. These are various figurines with the use of vines, earthenware, wheels from a carriage. Flowers look especially beautiful. They can be planted along the fence or planted in wicker pots.
Novice needlewomen and craftsmen are faced with the problem of the material. At first, it is difficult to decide what kind of crafts and character you want to build. Then the question arises about what material to use and how to work with it correctly. Therefore, you should study in advance the topic of future crafts and make your choice. For weaving from reeds, you need to know some subtleties about preparing reeds for a product for beginners. Having studied the details of this case, you will know how to weave a fence, a mat, and any things from reeds and cattails.
There is nothing difficult when choosing any weaving technique. It is important to know the basics of some knots, diagrams, or the basics of constructing structures, in order to simply start working with a craft in one or another do-it-yourself weaving technique.
Choosing reeds as a basis for crafts, you can easily build not only baskets and hats, but even slippers. The world of crafts made from this material is very diverse, so do not even think about them, but start doing it. Numerous master classes and schemes for performing work are not uncommon for modern needlewomen and craftsmen.
Looking at the beautiful wicker baskets, hats and accessories, we admire the craftsmanship of their creators. Humanity has reached unprecedented heights in weaving from cattails and reeds in more than one day - the art of weaving is more than 8.5 thousand years old.
Our ancestors began to weave containers and baskets much earlier than making ceramic and fabric items. Boxes, containers and vases made of plastic, metal or paper, which we use to this day, in everyday life for storing and transporting various household items, in those days, reeds and cattail leaves were made.
The first wicker baskets appeared in the Middle East and Africa eight and a half thousand years ago. Later, judging by the finds in the excavations of old civilizations - in Egypt, they are more than 5 thousand years old. An interesting fact should be noted: the way of weaving baskets has not undergone fundamental changes over thousands of years. The baskets that are still woven in Egypt are not much different from the finds of archaeologists.
On European territory, wicker baskets appeared much later: in the area of the town of Glastonberry, in Great Britain, a rare basket was found, which, according to experts, is about two thousand years old.
In those ancient times, human life was inconceivable without wickerwork from the moment of birth to death. The mother rocked the newborn baby in a cradle made of grass, the human bed was nothing more than a mat - a wicker rug, and was escorted into another world in a coffin woven from willow rods.
This master class was created in order to teach you how to use simple little things for the construction of crafts. Here you will find photos, diagrams and videos for making items from reeds. You will learn a lot of new and useful information.
We learn step by step weaving from reeds for beginner craftsmen
To make a basket for small things from reeds, you need:
- Dry reeds
- Accessories
- Stationery knife.
With the correct execution of the sequential actions, you can master perfectly the technique of making products from reeds and cattails.
Step-by-step master class:- Weave the bottom of the reed basket in a circle.
- When the bottom is complete, proceed to the sides of the basket.
- Weave the walls. Cut off the excess particles with a knife.
- When the product is brought to the final stage, decorate with accessories if you wish to refine it and give it a zest.
Your small basket is ready. Use it for joy!
Reed weaving will not seem boring for beginners. And when you see the result of your labor, you will absolutely love this business. Do not be lazy, try to master this technology for making crafts.
Recently, DIY crafts are appreciated more and more. In our age of robots and conveyor production, not everyone can build a beautiful thing that will be solid and pleasing to the eye with its appearance. And only a craftsman with golden hands and a faithful eye can breathe life into a thin twig of a reed leaf, create a real masterpiece from it.
Many are afraid to make crafts with their own hands, in view of the fear of building something wrong. Naturally, if you do something for the first time, chances are that the thing will not work the first time. Therefore, it is worth treating with special awe and attention to your work. Sometimes, these simple criteria are enough for the craft to turn out to be a masterpiece.
In search of the very thing that you really would like to buy, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort, and then also a large amount of money to buy it. Try to make products yourself. You will definitely succeed!
Related videos