Fitness and healthy lifestyle 

Patterns of Easter eggs from beads with icons. Beaded eggs with floral patterns - master class

On the eve of the revered and beloved holiday of Easter, many hostesses start painting eggs and making cakes, traditional for this holiday. It is not surprising, because on this day it is customary to treat all your relatives and friends with a painted egg. Yes, it's nice to feel like an Easter bunny and delight those around you with cute signs of attention. However, is it so good to receive in return an unthinkable amount of the same eggs that you need to use in the near future, otherwise they will simply go bad? And some of these gifts look so beautiful: covered with bright paint and decorated with patterns or holiday stickers. How wonderful it would be to put such beauty on the shelf and admire the symbol of the past holiday for many months to come. Why not? In our master class on making an Easter egg from beads, just especially for beginners, you will learn how to make beautiful and durable gifts that will delight your loved ones with their appearance for many years.

Master class on braiding eggs from beads for beginners

Before you start making the original Easter egg, you need to prepare all the necessary materials for work. Most of these can be found at your local craft store.

Necessary materials:
  • 3 jars with multi-colored beads.
  • Skein of fishing line.
  • Wooden egg.
  • Fine needle.
  • Scissors.

1) The first step is to measure the number of beads per egg width. To do this, we collect beads on the fishing line until there are enough of them when grasping the egg at the widest point.

Be sure to remember the resulting number of beads!

2) Now we start to weave the pillow for the egg. We connect 5 beads in a flower with a needle, and then weave the first row, adding one bead each between the same elements of the “flower” of the previous row.

3) Before weaving the next row, change the color of the beads. Then insert two beads between the beads of the previous row. We do the third row in the same way, but insert again one bead at a time.

4) To weave the fourth row, insert one bead once, the second time - two, then one again, and so we repeat in a circle.

5) Change the color again for the new row. Now we begin to weave several rows in the same way as we did in the last step, until there are as many beads in the row as we got in the first step, measuring the width of the egg.

6) Now it's time to reduce the number of beads in a row. To do this, you need to use the same approach that we took when increasing them. In other words, in the rows where three beads were inserted in intervals, you need to subtract three. It's better to just skip them while weaving the next row.

At the end of weaving, we tie a knot of wire on top and that's it, our beaded Easter egg is ready!

We study the technique of mosaic weaving of an Easter egg

The mosaic method is quite simple in its execution and is perfect for novice needlewomen. You don't need to look for a pattern or count the number of beads per egg for him. It is enough to choose the beads you need in color and size, a thin line and a needle.

Mosaic egg weaving is performed in the following sequence:

1) We start with a small flower with a core of one bead and petals of six.

2) Weave the second row of beads between the “petals” of the first row.

3) We make the third row in a similar way to the previous step, but weave not one, but two between the beads of the second row.

4) Weaving the fourth row, we put one bead on the needle and also distribute them between the elements of the previous row.

5) The next, fifth row, goes for expansion, therefore we weave three between the beads of the fourth row.

6) Weave the sixth row, inserting 2 beads in the intervals of the fifth row.

7) Now the "top" of the egg is ready and you can start braiding it further.

8) The seventh row goes for expansion: pass the needle through 2 beads of the previous row and, stringing one bead on the line, draw the needle through every third bead of the 5th row.

9) In the eighth row, alternate weaving of two and three beads in the previous row.

10) Chains 9 and 10 are set in the same order, but for the ninth row of the pattern of the main part of the mosaic weaving, one bead is strung on the thread, and for the tenth - 2 at once.

11) After the end of the 10th row, the braid should be gradually narrowed. The process is similar to expansion: as much as we increase the number of beads in one row or another, so we decrease it.

12) Finish the Easter egg mosaic by creating a flower with one bead in the center. The thread is fixed by winding it into several beads of the upper chains.

In addition to the usual braiding of eggs with beads, you can also use more complex patterns with other patterns. For example, this photo shows a pattern of weaving with a diamond-shaped bead net.

The technique of double-sided weaving is also interesting. An Easter egg made according to this scheme looks quite simple, but at the same time it is original.

Related videos

For further training in braiding eggs from beads, we suggest that you study a selection of video materials on this topic. Good luck!

Easter is a holiday when people not only serve liturgy in churches, but also exchange gifts at home. Easter eggs are used as gifts, which are painted by hand, pasted over with patterns.

The Easter egg, which is braided with beads, will be original.

Easter eggs from beads, weaving patterns



This craft will look like a king. For work, you need to use fishing line, beads, as well as the egg itself. You can use an egg blank that is sold in the store. But if it was not possible to find it, but independently from a natural egg, we make a blank step by step.

Beaded Easter egg pattern

You just need to pour out the contents of the egg, then glue it over with toilet paper in several layers to get additional rigidity of the product. In the end, the egg is painted and after it dries, you can start working.

Weaving Easter eggs from beads for beginners

The easiest way to do this is to string beads on a fishing line or thread (it is better to use multi-colored beads), and then simply coat the egg with glue by winding a thread with beads on it.

DIY Easter souvenir workshop

Vyaltseva Yulia Konstantinovna, educator MDOBU Bureysky d / s No. 50 "Teremok", Bureysky district, Amur region.
The master class is intended for children of senior school age, teachers and parents who are passionate about creativity.

Purpose: interior decoration, option for a gift for Easter.
Target. DIY Easter souvenir making.
Tasks.
1. To teach how to make an egg using the papier-mâché technique and decorate it with a mosaic of beads and beads.
2. Develop imagination, individual creativity, independence, hard work.
3. Develop fine motor skills of hands, eye.
4. To cultivate an aesthetic taste, the desire to bring joy from creation to yourself and your loved ones.
5. To cultivate caution when working with glue, needles and beads, accuracy, patience, perseverance.

Among the significant Christian holidays, Easter can be called without exaggeration a triumph of celebrations.
On Easter, it is customary to congratulate all friends and relatives. And although you can give your neighbors anything you want, still preference is given to Easter eggs. But how they will look is up to you. The choice is so great that the eyes run up, and the hands reach for work. I propose to make an Easter souvenir by decorating it with a mosaic of beads and beads. This memorable gift will serve as a talisman, a talisman for those whom you love and for whom you wish well.

First, you need to make an egg shape using the papier-mâché technique, which we will decorate.

The birthplace of papier-mâché is China, where paper was invented. The Chinese used papier-mâché for helmets and other things, which were stiffened with many layers of varnish. Products were made by gluing small pieces of wet paper layer by layer onto a pre-prepared model. In the classical technique, from several to 100 layers of paper are applied.

For work we need the following materials:
- PVA glue, paste (but you can do without it);
- newspaper, toilet paper;
- a brush, water and a foam blank for decorating in the shape of an egg measuring 8-10 cm (if there is no shape, you can mold an egg of the required size from plasticine).


So, let's begin.
1. Let's take small pieces of newsprint and toilet paper.


2. Glue the first layer of toilet paper onto the mold, moistening only with water. We glue the next layer of newsprint with paste and PVA glue. We alternate layers several times.



3. Leave the egg to dry completely. After drying, carefully cut the resulting shape along the drawn line.



4. We take out the foam blank.


5. Connect the halves of the egg, cover it again with newsprint, dry it, sand it with fine sandpaper, paint it with white acrylic paint or gouache.


Next, let's start decorating the Easter egg.
For this we need:
pink and dark pink beads of different sizes, white, pink and dark pink beads;
scissors, white and red threads, bead needle;
a piece of dark velor fabric;
universal glue "Moment".


So, let's get down to creativity.
1. Glue a strip of velor fabric 2-3 centimeters wide along an ovoid curve.


2. On a double white thread, string white beads so that the thread covers a large pink bead around the circumference.


3. Glue a bead ring and a bead into the center of the egg.


4. Assemble medium-sized pink beads on a red thread, after securing the first bead with a knot.


5. Glue to the blank around the bead ring.


6. Symmetrically decorate the other part of the Easter egg.


7. Next, with dark pink beads, we will depict a cross - a symbol of Christianity.



8. String a sufficient amount of white beads onto the thread and glue it around the perimeter of the resulting cross.


9. We will repeat the same stage of work twice more. Using pink beads first.



10. Then use dark pink beads to emphasize the contour of the cross.


11. Do not forget to arrange the back of the egg symmetrically.



12. Now we need short threads with strung dark pink beads. We will paste over the fabric along the contour with them.



13. Now we prepare a lot of strings using pink and dark pink beads with a length equal to the unformed gaps.


14. Carefully glue them, carefully mask the knots of threads.


15. This is what the symmetrical sides of an Easter egg look like.



16. Let's design the craft along the ovoid curve. To do this, make a pink beaded ring equal to the circumference of the large pink bead.


17. Glue the bead and ring on top of the egg. Let's add one more ring made of dark pink beads.


18. Let's make similar jewelry with smaller dark pink beads.


19. We glue them on the sides.


20. Draw curls on the fabric with chalk or soap.


21. Carefully glue the beaded threads of the required length onto the drawn curls.



22. The Easter egg is ready.


Now let's start decorating the stand for this Easter egg. We will use the following materials:
cardboard, compasses, scissors;
white and red threads, pink and dark pink beads, medium-sized beads;
universal glue.


Let's get to work.
1. Using a compass, draw two circles on the cardboard with a radius of 2 and 4 cm.


2. Cut a ring along the contour, glue it into a cone.



3. Gather the dark pink beads and seed beads on a thread, alternating them. Glue the first bottom row to the stand.


4. Let's continue to decorate the stand with beaded threads, varying the color at our discretion.
Braiding eggs with MK beads.

Let me tell you a secret, I do not know how and do not like to work according to schemes, and I never create schemes. I just do what I want with what I have. So it is with Easter eggs. I weaved the first egg 20 years ago, I myself developed the weaving technique and I still use it.

If you also like to create things in a single copy - this master class is for you.

What is needed for this?

You can use any shape for an egg: a piece of wood, a plastic egg, etc. The main thing is that the form is strong enough and not too heavy (I prefer wooden blanks).

A thread you can also use any: monofilament, "Fireline" bead thread, regular waxed thread (I work with "Fireline").

Beads we also use the one that is in stock, moreover, it can be of different sizes and textures. Large beads... Although I mainly work with Czech beads preciosa # 10.

Where to begin?

For work, we select beads in several shades; for beginners, you can take two or three colors that go well with each other to your taste. I am in a "rosy" mood today. We will take as a basis mosaic weaving with the addition and decrease of beads, using a six-ray pattern. On the blank, you can make small notes with a pencil if you plan to create a more complex drawing, although this is not necessary. Sometimes I start work without any preliminary idea at all, not knowing what the end result will be.

Getting started with a regular flower made of beads: one bead inside, six around




Second row we pass between the beads, you can immediately take the beads of a different color to make it clearer

In the third row we need to immediately increase the number of beads, because expansion of the product is required, so we take two beads at once and go through the beads of the second row

Throughout the entire work, it is necessary to ensure that each row is completed, i.e. the needle should return to the bead from which it left at the beginning of the row and go through the first (or two or three) just completed. Fourth row again we go through one bead

In the fifth row we continue to expand the product, so we take three beads each.

We are already starting to form a pattern, and even in this small detail of the product there may already be several options for the location of the beads. In the sixth again take two beads in a row so that the expansion is uniform: take two, go through the three previous rows. Here are two color options :



Now - a very important point! Here I suggest taking your time, but using glue for beads or rhinestones, stick the resulting "patch" on the base of the egg. It is necessary to ensure that it is located strictly in the center of the base. In wooden blanks, there is usually a small cut at the bottom of the egg so that the egg can be delivered. I think you will appreciate how much more convenient it will be to work later. our work will be securely recorded.



I only give girdle diagrams and no whole egg diagrams with tops.

I will explain.

Very often you see on the internet, in a book or in a magazine, a photo of an awesomely beautiful egg with a ready-made scheme. In the explanations it is written - the height of the egg is 10 cm. You measure your workpiece - hurray, 10 cm !!! and start to weave. And you have a bummer. Either your beaded shirt does not climb on the egg and you get ugly gaps, the tops of your heads do not pull into place in any way, or vice versa - the shirt puffs up and fidgets over the workpiece, and the tops of the heads stick out with berets.
You are in a panic, do not understand what is wrong with you, you are trying to remake ... Why does it happen? Everything is very simple. A blank of a different shape, not the same as that of the author of the scheme. That is, you have the same height of the egg and the girth of the waist, but the egg does not work. And all because your workpiece has a waist slightly higher, or slightly lower than that of the author of the diagram. Your egg is more plump and rounder, or vice versa - more slender and elongated. It seems - a trifle. But because of such trifles, the egg does not work. After all, the author has calculated a scheme that ideally fits ITS size and configuration of the workpiece, and your workpiece is different from it. If you weave with a net or a cross, this is not important, since the fabric with a net is more plastic and adapts to the features of the workpiece. If you are braiding with a dense weave, and even with a pattern, then each bead is important here. It is she who may turn out to be superfluous in the row and stand on end, or it is she who will not be enough, and an ugly hole will turn out.

From my own experience, having stuffed cones, having thought of all the same to these subtleties, I will try to teach you how to choose and calculate an egg pattern so that there are no such troubles.
That is why I never draw diagrams of the tops, because, even repeating my egg according to my scheme for the umpteenth time, with the same blanks, I manage to make different tops. But the tops of our heads are in the second part.

Now on the belt.

For the first braiding experiments, I recommend taking schemes not with a solid pattern, but with individual motifs, between which there are rows of background beads. It is easier to fit such a pattern to your workpiece by changing the number of rows of background beads between the motifs and the number of motives. When you have already learned how to calculate the size of the belt both in height and in length, calculate the decrease at the tops and weave them evenly, you can take a complex pattern and create your own personal masterpiece. For example this)))

Well, I almost finished the introduction, now about the schemes))) I probably seemed a little boring to you, well, forgive me, I just really want you not to get disappointed when creating your first egg

I will specifically post not only my own, but also schemes found on the Internet (for example, for embroidery or crochet sirloin). It doesn't matter what these schemes were originally intended for, the main thing is that they have a drawing in the cells. I want you to make sure that you can use almost any scheme, as long as it fits the size of the workpiece. The fact is that, first of all, I don't want thirty absolutely identical "incubator" eggs to appear on the site, and I think you also want to create something of your own. Something that you will enjoy looking at and something that you will be proud of. And secondly - I want you to learn how to independently calculate the drawing of an egg for yourself, without waiting for someone somewhere to publish a diagram of the finished egg. For my part, I will help you with advice, if you do not succeed on your own, I will help you with the calculations. Believe me - it's absolutely not difficult, the main thing is to try. I once studied in master classes, I looked over a lot of literature, but I had to go to many simple things with my own mind. There was no one to ask. So if you do not understand something - ask, everything I know, I will definitely tell you.

Well, now the schemes.

Schemes for eggs 6.5 cm in height and below


In this scheme, you can use pink buds if you put them, the bottom blue flowers and a small pink flower.

I became terribly interested in myself and from the last drawing I selected and redrawn the birds. Wonderful birds turned out, here, look.

I must say right away that for eggs of this size, the maximum height of the pattern is no more than 24 -25 cells. The lower the workpiece, the lower the height of the main pattern. In this case, the height of the girdle can be 10-16 cells (in ascending order of the size of the workpiece) and the maximum length of the girdle is up to 82 cells. The smaller the egg, the shorter the belt, there are such babies that only about 60 rows fit on them. More precisely, we will calculate with you when you measure your workpiece in detail. How to do it - I'll tell you below.

For eggs 7-8 cm high (higher).

For eggs of this size, the maximum height of the main pattern is 30 -32 cells. Belt length 96-108 cells.


Yes, if this scheme is placed vertically, then it is suitable for an egg higher than 6.5 cm)))


Here you can use rosebuds vertically.


Also here you can use the schemes drawn for brooches (links in the previous topic)

Schemes for eggs from 8 to 10 cm (can be higher) in height.

Here the maximum height of the pattern can be up to 40 cells, the length of the belt is 108 - 120 cells.

You can dig more

In eggs of this size, the height of the main pattern can reach 50-60 cells, and the length of the girdle can be up to 160 cells.

Now for a more accurate calculation of the size of the belt.

We take our workpiece and mark a smoother, practically without narrowing, area approximately in the middle of the egg. It will be shifted slightly downward like this.

We measure the height of this section with a tailor's centimeter (you can also use a ruler, but a tailor's one is more convenient). On my sample of a belt 2 cm of weaving in height, 9 beads of a Czech 10 size are placed. That is, there are approximately 4.5 beads in 1 cm. The height of my flat area on the egg is 6 cm. Multiply 6 by 4.5 we get 27 rows. But for a Ndebele canvas, an even number of rows is needed, so we remove one and get a belt height of 26 rows. Why are we removing and not adding a row? Because it is this added row that can then stick out with a stake and bulge. Therefore, we always count in the direction of decreasing. In general, for an egg with a height of 8 - 8.5 cm in height, the maximum height of the belt is 24 rows.

Now we measure the waist of the egg with a tailor's meter. I have 6 beads in width on a sample of 1 cm. The waist of my egg is 19 cm. We subtract one centimeter ( necessarily!!), 18 times six we get 108 rows. Why subtract a centimeter? Yes, because the girdle still narrows to the edges, and if we weave it based on the thickest part of the egg, then the edges of the girdle will lag behind the workpiece. As when sewing, an allowance is given, so on the contrary it is taken away from us for a better fit of the belt to the workpiece. In the finished form, the Ndebele belt is quite plastic, in the center it will stretch, narrow towards the edges and our shirt will sit on the egg, like a glove.

Now about the drawing. You have chosen a drawing with a height of for example 32 cells. Belt height 24 cells. This means that we will add 8 rows of the pattern when we move from the belt to the weaving of the tops. This means that in the figure we must select 24 rows in height for weaving the belt. Since the egg narrows more at the top, we move these 24 rows downward relative to the middle of the picture. That is, when drawing in 32 cells and a belt of 24 cells, we separate 2 or three rows from the bottom, and 6 or five rows at the top, respectively. Now we distribute the pattern along the length of the belt, that is, in width. For example, the width of our motif is 32 cells. And the length of the belt is 108 cells. Four motives don't fit. So we multiply 32 by 3, we get 96. We subtract 96 from 108 - 12 remains. Divide by three (after all, that's how many motives we have) - we get 4. So between the motives we get four rows of background without a picture. Everything !! Absolutely nothing complicated.