Sew a man's shirt for folk dances. Russian folk shirt: description, tailoring features, pattern, photo
If you and your son were invited to a holiday in the Russian-folk style, then you will need a thematic outfit. In order not to bother looking for a whole suit, you can get by with one element. In this article, you will learn how to sew a shirt for a boy with your own hands.
In simple terms, this is a simple Russian shirt. Only her collar is oblique, and not straight, like ordinary shirts. Such clothing appeared in the fifteenth century. The slit with a fastener on the collar was usually located on the left side, but sometimes it could be located on the right. The cut of the kosovorotka was located exactly obliquely so that the pectoral cross did not fall out from under the clothes during labor work.
We select the scheme
For example, let's take a seven-year-old boy and we will sew a shirt on him. As a basis, you can take a blouse pattern for an adult man. We remove the sizes from the child, replace them with the sizes of an adult shirt and get the following scheme:
The Russian folk shirt is sewn quite quickly according to this pattern. Even if you rarely sit down at a sewing machine or have never tried sewing at all, you can still succeed. It will take you about five hours to complete the entire job.
Do not be intimidated by so much time at work - you can sew a blouse for two (maximum three) evenings.
We adjust the pattern to the desired size. To do this, you need to write down measurements from the resulting diagram in the second photo like this:
- shirt width - 38 cm + 2 cm at the seams;
- sleeve length - 34 cm + 8 cm for hem;
- shirt length - 50 cm + 8 cm for hem;
- the neck is 32 cm + 2 cm for the seams.
Materials for sewing a blouse:
- fabric: satin, linen or cotton - 1 x 1.2 m;
- decorative braid - 1.10 m wide and 1.10 m - narrow;
- Velcro fastener - 10 cm;
- threads matching the color;
- sewing supplies: scissors, a ripper, a ruler, pins and so on.
The pattern is so simple that it can be done immediately on the fabric. But for you, as a beginner, it is better to first draw it on special graph paper (see the third photo) or on a newspaper. The shirt is cut without shoulder seams, so even a child can handle the task. As a result, you will have a rectangle with a cutout in the center (fourth photo). By the way! In school, in labor lessons, you probably went through something like this:
After cutting, you will get: the main part with a cut in the middle, two sleeves, two gussets.
We start to stitch
The first step is to sew the sleeves. Attach a gusset to the edge of the sleeve. Now attach the gusset sleeve to the body of the shirt and machine stitch it on. To prevent the fabric from “running”, fix the sleeve with needles.
Now fold the jersey so that the sleeve and gusset are sewn together. Sew the side of the shirt next. Then sew on the second sleeve in the same way. Do not forget to process the seams: you can manually, or you can use an overlock.
And now you need to bend the edges of the sleeves and the bottom of the base of the future shirt. Iron over the folded sections and sew. For more detailed instructions, see this video:
Making the neckline and clasp
You have a finished blouse, but you still need to process the neckline and fastener. The work is troublesome, but small.
Make the clasp first. Its length is 15 cm.In order to process the fastener, cut out two rectangles:
- the first is 20 x 5.5 cm;
- the second (slightly wider) - 20 x 10 cm.
Sew a narrow strip to the left edge of the cutout and wrap it inside the shirt. A wide strip must be sewn on the right side of the cutout. When the shirt is worn on the child's body, the wide side will be on the left side - Velcro will be attached to it.
Friends, a new detailed article with a photo to help many people who take their first steps in sewing Russian folk traditional clothes with their own hands and, in particular, a Russian folk men's shirt
The article was written based on the materials of the group's master class = Revival of native traditions = Voronezh = on the "Vkontakte" network
Thanks to Natalia Kolesnikova and Anna Bereznyakova!
For sewing a shirt, you will need about two linear meters of linen fabric, it is highly desirable to be clean and free of impurities. The width of the canvas can be either 1.4 meters or 1.5 and 1.6 meters - whatever you find.
A sewing machine with a set of threads, good scissors, chalk or pencil, pins.
It is advisable to soak the fabric in hot water so that it shrinks. Then dry and iron. Spread the fabric lengthwise on a flat surface.
It is necessary to measure (after measuring the beloved man) and make parts.
For example, with an increase of 1.80, you can safely cut off all 2 meters (along the length of the fabric), and the width of the shirt can be measured - simply by attaching to the fabric that thing (sweater, shirt) that he wears and in which he is comfortable. Add 2 centimeters to the seams and you can cut.
Select the braid (inlay, bindweed), contrasting fabric in advance and attach it to the fabric.
In total, you get: one stanin (long rectangle), two sleeves (about 63-65 centimeters long (the excess will go into the hem), and the standard width is 42 + 2 centimeters at the seams (then the sleeve is folded in half and sewn, but that later). And two gussets 12x12 centimeters.
We fold the stanin lengthwise, and then along the width. Precisely converging corners and shoulder top. Our task is to determine the center at the top and cut the neck evenly.
In the photo, the fabric is folded in four (in length, then in width). We measure and cut. At first, you can roughly draw a rounded corner.
We cut off the neckline, immediately drag it inside through the resulting slot and put it aside - according to tradition, to save energy in the shirt.
Just like in the photo.
Next, we draw a neckline deeper (this is a cutout in the front) and carefully and evenly cut off one fabric (not two or four). We fold it over and cut it symmetrically. Those. in the front, the cutout is deeper and more comfortable than in the back. Even if it is not a large hole for now, the head should not go through it, since an incision will still be made for this.
The neckline is ready. If you are going to make a stand-up collar, then the neckline should be much smaller, almost along the neck.
We measure the neckline with a centimeter tape in order to cut the bias tape (you can buy it, but I don't like the purchased one because it is too narrow).
We cut out an oblique inlay. it is possible on a contrasting fabric, like mine. we place a meter or a ruler obliquely (approximately at an angle of 45 degrees) and outline the length of the neck. And it will be 5-6 centimeters wide.
Here's what we got. Bias binding. A pair of gussets and edging (approximately 15x13 centimeters)
We process the edges of all details, except for the neck and bias tape. It's good with an overlock, but you can also use a simple zigzag, as in the photo.
We find the center of her (edging) (it is important that it coincides with the center of the shirt). By the way, the cutout can also be on the side, for this you need to move the edging to the right. However, in this example, the cutout is centered.
On the sides we draw two lines at a distance of about 1 centimeter.
Stitch exactly along the drawn side lines. We remind you - all this is on the front side of the shirt! And together with the lower fabric of the stanin, we make a cut in the center of the facing, as deep as it is necessary to make the depth of the cut.
Before reaching the edge of the stitched line 1 centimeter, we stop and make side cuts right into the very corners. It is very important to cut through to the very, very corner (BUT! DO NOT CUT THREAD). Then we turn it inside out and stitch it on the front side.
Now, it's just about time to sew the braid, if there is one, so that the ends of it can be “hidden” under the inlay, which we will now attach.
Attach the bias tape to the edge of the neckline from the front (leaving 2 centimeters of the edge) and pin it with pins. When you pin it, pull it tight, this is done so that the collar has a shape.
Sew on. It will look something like this. Please note that on both sides the stitch width is the same (about 1 centimeter or "per foot width")
We fold the bias tape inward twice (to the wrong side) so that it covers the first seam and sew it very carefully from the face, trying to get into the channel (i.e., into the joint). With this seam, we must secure the completely bias tape already folded.
Thus we reach the end. We check if our two edges coincide in width.
We also check whether we have "captured" from the inside out - we have stitched the tucked-in inlay. If not everywhere, then we hem, if necessary, we unstitch and sew again.
We cut the edges to 1.5 centimeters and tuck inward, it is convenient to do this with scissors, as in the picture. later we sew a button and a loop there.
We sew the sleeves, at the same time stitching the gussets to them.
Folding the sleeve in half, we immediately put a gusset in it to the very edge. We connect the edges of the sleeves with a line, but when we reach the gusset placed inside, we slow down the speed of the machine and go to the edge of the fabric (not overstretching the gusset, but stopping at its very edge).
Raise the needle (if necessary, raise the foot), bend one edge of the sleeve and, by mechanical movement of the hand, direct the needle to the edge of the gusset. And from the edge, smoothly round the line straight up. Cut the thread.
We fasten the other, upper edge of the sleeve with the edge of the gusset. We turn the sleeve and already from above we sew it together with the gusset, also rounding to the bottom. The matter is delicate and requires skill. Special attention should be paid to this so that there is no hole under the arm later.
In the same way we "get rid of" and with the second sleeve and gusset!
Here's what you should get.
Now we find the center of the shoulder on the sleeve and on the back. To do this, fold it along its length and mark the upper extreme points-shoulders and pin it there on a pin. The sleeve should be turned out to the right side.
They are the constant inspiration of modern fashion. Only ethnicity can bring a unique flavor of harmonious individuality into one or another element of the wardrobe and endow it with a special character. Slavic culture always gives rise to special interest, since national costumes in the Russian style are invariably charismatic and distinctive. It is for this reason that the Russian shirt is increasingly appearing in the collections of famous designers, and not only domestic ones.
A bit of history
The basis of any Slavic national costume at all times was a shirt. The origins of the appearance of the Russian traditional shirt go back to ancient times of the Old Believers and pagans. Its first known name is kosovorotka. The peculiarity of such an attire was that its collar was cut in a slanting direction, and not in the middle in the usual way.
Traditional Slavic kosovorotka
It was this position of the collar that gave the name to this old Russian shirt.
According to historians who deeply study Slavic culture, it is believed that the cut of the blouse allowed the neck cross to not fall out during work.
As a rule, such an oblique shirt collar was shifted to the right side, and the first mentions of such clothes date back to the 15th century. The shirt was widely used by men in everyday life, was worn for release, girded with a sash or belt.
A belted man in a Russian blouse looked more stately
If we turn to more ancient Slavonic times, the origin of the word "shirt" came from the consonant "rub", which meant "rags, linen", as well as the word "rush" (to tear, tear down). And this is not a coincidence! Initially, the shirt was a modest and simple garment: a tunic-like cloth folded in half with a slit for the head.
The first shirts were by no means sewn or cut, but with their hands tore off a piece of fabric. As a result of a simple evolution, long and loose sleeves were added to this garment. The first shirts were made of hemp fiber, and only much later did the laity begin to use cotton and linen.
As for the women's shirt, its history is no less rich in events than the men's one. The first shirts were considered underwear and were worn under dresses and sundresses. Their cut was free, long, such clothes were called "camp".
This women's undershirt was popular in the 13th century.
There were all kinds of shirts for various occasions: for fortune-telling, for working in the field (mowing), for feeding babies, ceremonial or festive. A particularly interesting model of such a shirt in the folk style, from the point of view of history, is still considered a sleeveless shirt. Its peculiarity was in especially long sleeves, which often reached the floor. There were slots in them so that the free-hanging sleeves could be tied behind the back, or the sleeve was gathered into folds and secured with special handcuffs. Such a model was intended for divination and all kinds of magic Old Slavonic rituals, but it was extremely inconvenient to work in it. It was such a shirt that gave rise to the well-known expression: "Work carelessly!"
The shirt for divination was decorated with a special ornament
Like any element that makes up a national costume, the shirt has an interesting and colorful history, interest in which has not been lost to this day.
Ornaments and symbolism
Each nation has many secrets and secrets, over the solution of which scientists "fight", as well as those interested in ancient Russian traditions and national symbols. and today is one of the most magical, giving rise to many questions today. Traditionally, any clothing in ethnic style was decorated with embroidery, especially in this art representatives of hardworking Slavic peoples succeeded.
At the moment, a lot of primordial Slavic ornaments are known.
Such patterns were applied to clothes, household items, etc.
It has long been believed that national clothing not only has an aesthetic flavor, but also has protective properties. In Russia, special attention was paid to embroidery. The Slavs believed that the outer shell of a person reflects his inner essence, is a mirror of his soul. That is why the special attributes and decor of the shirt was a powerful defense against filth, evil eyes and envy. The Slavs strove to live in harmony not only with themselves and their world, but also with Mother Nature.The Slavs believed that being in harmony with nature meant preserving and increasing its wealth! Therefore, a hand-embroidered shirt is a reflection of spirituality and a symbol of morality.
Thanks to embroidery, ordinary clothes turned into a powerful amulet.
Each element of the shirt decor, be it male or female, had its own deep meaning:
- Periwinkle is the personification of everlasting life.
The periwinkle symbol embroidered on a men's shirt
- Grape. The image of bunches of grapes on a shirt is a traditional masculine decor, meaning wealth, fertility and abundance.
Grapes can be found on traditional Ukrainian towels
- Martin. A traditional Slavic symbol that personifies spring, success and happiness that a swallow brings on its wings.
- Poppies. In Russia, they believed that poppies embroidered on a shirt would help protect against any evil. Most often, the clothes of the bride and groom were embroidered with such ornaments.
Now poppies are used more for decorative purposes.
- Hop. The leaves and fruits of hops were depicted on the shirts of young girls and boys, which meant youth and love.
Embroidery hops - Rooster. A traditional Slavic symbol that adorned the shirts of a man - the head of the family. The rooster was not only the herald of the dawn, the rising sun, but also personified the masculine principle and the hearth of the house.
An example of using the image of a rooster in an embroidered composition
Now this symbol is used in such amulets.
- Doves. This ornament was used to decorate the shirts of the newlyweds as a symbol of the formation of a new family.
According to our ancestors, as a rule, only those parts of the shirt were decorated with embroidery through which evil forces had access to the body and soul. The shirt itself was also a protection for the dark forces, so the so-called protective pattern was applied where the fabric ended: on the cuffs, on the collar, hem and cuts.
Decorating rules
Few would argue that Russian shirts decorated with ethnic motives are always solemn, elegant and stylish. Putting on such elements of the national costume today, we are not only transformed outwardly, creating an image that is unique in its color. It is also a tribute to the richest Slavic history and traditions of our ancestors. Modern models of shirts using national symbols are incredibly popular among representatives of any generation. Handwork is especially appreciated in the manufacture of such a wardrobe item.
A red shirt with hand embroidery will become one of the most elegant wardrobe items.
Today, a folk-style shirt can even be worn for business negotiations. According to legends, embroidery with blue and gold threads will surely bring financial success in any endeavor!
Until now, some traditional rules for decorating clothes in the Russian folk style have been preserved:
- The main color of threads for embroidery was considered to be red or its shades (scarlet, lingonberry, cherry, brick, currant).
Black is also often used, but red remains the main color.
- The seams with which the shirt is sewn and embroidered must be countable: for each stitch, the threads are counted. Well-known counting stitches are such as "painting", "set" or "counting stitch".
- Cotton threads endow the shirt with protective properties from the evil eye, damage and envious glances.
- Silk threads help to achieve success in a career, maintain clarity of mind.
- The woolen embroidery of the shirt, according to the beliefs of our ancestors, helps to cure bodily and mental ailments. The sun embroidered on a shirt with wool will help warm both body and soul in cold weather.
- When embroidering a shirt, you need to choose an ornament in which each symbol is in the same theme, otherwise you can introduce some kind of energy confusion.
The colors used also play a role. - Embroidery on a shirt in ethnic style is done only in a good mood. It should not contain any knots, so as not to break the magical connection.
- When choosing a fabric for sewing a shirt, it is important to give preference to exclusively natural fabrics. So, linen and cotton are perfect for sewing casual shirts, wool - for cold weather, and silk can be used on especially special occasions, such as a wedding.
It was convenient to work in such a shirt.
Despite the simple cut of such a garment, hand embroidery using ancient Slavic symbols gives it a special semantic flavor. A shirt can easily complement not only an everyday, but also a business or festive look, imparting semantic elegance, protecting from evil and emphasizing high status.
It is called primordially Russian clothing, the Old Believers wear it, emphasizing the connection with Russian antiquity, and all export folk groups do not appear on the stage in anything else. But is the blouse so original Russian?
Oblique vs straight
Researchers did not agree, including in our editorial office, how and why this type of shirt came into use among our ancestors. There is a pretty strong version, but in order.
The oblique collar means "not equal to the direction in question", according to Dahl, that is, with the middle direction of the cut for a shirt, an older form of Russian shirt, which most likely can be called primordial.
Actually, the shirt was cut according to the "middle" principle: the homespun cloth was folded in half and an incision was made to put it on. Then, sleeves and gussets (axillary inserts) were added to the already obtained front and back.
What could make you abandon this simple and natural path, dictated by nature and physiology (the incision corresponded to the neck line), in favor of an oblique collar? There is no clear answer to this question. There are several versions of why, in fact, a kosovorotka, and not a "straight line". There is a famous version of Academician Likhachev, who explained such a choice of incision so that the pectoral cross did not fall out during work. The hypothesis is beautiful, but absolutely not supported by anything.
Other versions
Ethnographer Dmitry Zelenin, explaining why the blouse has become so popular, proceeded from the principle of practicality. The scientist believed that a shirt with a slit on the side better protects from the cold, because it does not open and allows you to move freely. Indeed, it was necessary to sew several additional elements into the shirt - wedges and sidewalls - to make the shirt fit for movement. Zelenin, like many other researchers, dates the appearance of the kosovorotka to the 15th century.
This is where we run into a contradiction. Clothing resembling a blouse was known among the Turkic peoples long before that time. Perhaps this explains the appearance of earlier evidence of its existence in Russia, for example, in the 12th century in Novgorod. Trade and other contacts with foreigners exerted a rather strong influence on the costume of the Russians, therefore, in the annals of the 12th and 13th centuries, there is even a mention of the fact that sometimes a German short-brimmed dress was already encountered among them.
Changing the approach to tailoring required good reason. And they appeared at the same time as the invasion of the Horde. It was then that the cut of the shirt began to be made on the left, like in the Tatars, whose scent was always on the left side.
This is where Zelenin's explanation becomes in its place, because it was the nomadic, steppe peoples who needed clothes that protect them from the wind when riding. The scientist, however, does not consider the presence of such collars for Tatars as sufficient reason to associate the appearance of the shirt with their culture.
Russification of the kosovorotka
There is no evidence of the unambiguous predominance of the oblique collar over the middle one until the 17th century; shirts were sewn with both a left-sided slit and a regular one. What can be said for sure is that the kosovorotka finally supplanted its ancient, East Slavic competitor-shirt only in the 19th century, becoming part of the traditional festive attire.
Most likely this is due to the Caucasian and Russian-Turkish wars of the 19th century - at that time the braids were in everyday use in those places. The trendsetter here, as often happens, is the uniform.
Probably, for reasons of convenience, during the reform of the military uniform of the 1880s, the blouse entered the uniform of the soldiers.
Accordingly, mass factory production of such shirts began. They began to be sewn from a wide variety of fabrics, and a variety of embroidery and ornaments ensured the people's love. The first guy in the village, or rather even in the posad, who was the trendsetter, always appeared in a blouse, cap and accordion. By the way, we will see where these two last supposedly primordial attributes came from.
To build a drawing of a male blouse (see also clause 12, after pressing the 10th), you need to take four measurements (in cm): neck circumference (ОШ) - 19.5
chest circumference (OG) - 48
Product length (DI) - 80
Sleeve length (DR) - 65
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| Fig. 1. Men's blouse | Rice. 2. Pattern of the basis of a man's blouse | Rice. 3. Pattern of a sleeve of a man's blouse | Rice. 4. Layout of patterns on the fabric for cutting blouse |
Name of lines and points |
Line designation |
calculation formula |
Size in cm |
Explanation of constructions |
| Length of the product |
We build a right angle with the apex at point A. From point A down we measure the length of the shirt 80 cm and put point D |
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| Frame width |
From point A to the right we measure 48 + 12 = 60 cm and put point B |
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| Middle front |
From point B we lower a straight line parallel to HELL |
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| Armhole depth |
From point A downwards we measure 1/3 OG (48: 3 + 8 = 24 cm) and set point G |
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| Chest line |
From point G to the right, draw a straight line parallel to AB, to the intersection with points VD1 and set point G1 |
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| L and n Iya bottom |
From point D to the right, draw a straight line parallel to the segment AB, to the intersection with VD1 |
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| Back construction Width rotska |
From point A to the right we measure 19.5: 3 + 1 = 7.5 cm and set point P |
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| Sprout height |
From point P, we rise 2.5 cm and set point P1, which we connect with a concave line to point A |
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| Back width |
From point A along line AB we measure 22.5 cm and set point P Lowered the perpendicular to the intersection with the line Г Г1 and set the point Г2ГГ2 = АП |
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| Armhole width |
From point P to the right we measure 60: 4 = 15 cm and set point P1. From point P1 we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the line ГГ1 and set the point Г3 ПП1 = Г2Гз |
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| Shoulder slope |
From point P we descend by 3 cm and set point P2 |
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| Auxiliary point |
From point P2 to the right we measure 1 cm and set point P3 We connect points P1 and P3 with a line |
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| Side line distance |
From point Г2 to the right we measure 7.5 cm (Г2 Г3: 2) and set point Г4 and from this point we lower the perpendicular to the intersection with line ДД1 and set point Д2 |
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| Auxiliary points of the armhole |
We measure 3 cm along the bisector of the angle Г2 and put a point G... Divide line G2 P2 in half and set point P4. We make out the armhole, as shown in fig. 2 | |||
| Side line backrests |
D2D3 |
From point D2 along the line DD1 to the right we measure 3 cm and set point D3. We connect points G4 and D3 with a line. The contour lines of the back pass along points A, G, D, D3, G4, G, P4, P3, P1 |
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| P e rin g e | ||||
| Neck depth |
From Point B down we measure 7.5 and put a point at (Bb = Ap) | |||
| Neck width |
From point B to the left we measure 7.5 cm and set point b1, which we connect to point b, divide it in half with a straight line, make a notch by 2 cm.Put point b2, which we connect with a sunken line to points b1 and b |
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| Shoulder slope |
From point P1 we go down by 4 cm and set point P5 |
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| front shoulder | We connect points b1, P5 with a straight line and measure on it back shoulder minus 1 cm and set point P6 |
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| Armhole ledge | From point G3 we rise 5 cm and set point G5, which we connect with point P6 |
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| Auxiliary point |
We measure 2 cm along the bisector of the angle from the point G3 and put a point G I. Points Г5, G 1, G4 we connect with a concave line |
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| Side line |
From point D2 to the left, measure 3 cm and set point D4, which we connect with point G4 |
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| Front lengthening |
From point D1 downwards we measure 3 cm and set point D5, which we connect to point D4, as shown in Fig. 2 |
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| Construction point for section line |
From point v to the left along the neckline we measure 3 cm and put a point v 3 |
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| Cut length |
v 3v 4 |
From point v 3 we go down 30 cm and put a point v 4. The contour lines pass along the points of the front: в, Г1, Д1, Д5, Д4, Г4, G 1, G5, P6, v 1, v 2 |
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| POSITIONING A CUTTING CIRCUIT (fig. 3) |
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| The length of the sleeve |
From point A down we measure 65 cm and put point D |
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| Sleeve width |
From point A to the left we measure 0Г = 48 + 2 = 50cm and set point A1 |
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| Highest point of the okata (middle of the sleeve) |
Divide the line AA1 in half by point B. From point B we lower the perpendicular and denote it by point D1 |
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| Sleeve round height |
From point A downwards we set aside a segment equal to 1/8 OG 48: 8 + 2 = 8 m, and denote it with point O, which we then connect with point B. From point A1 we set aside 8 cm, put point O1, which we connect with point B (A1 O1 = AO) |
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| Auxiliary points |
Divide the straight line OB in half by point П |
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| Also | Divide the OP segment in half by point n, from which we set aside 2 cm and set point n1 |
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| Also | ||||
| Also | The segment Pp2 is equal to 1/2 VP. From the point N2 we restore the perpendicular 1 cm and denote by the point n3 | |||
Auxiliary points for constructing a sleeve |
Divide straight line О1 В in half by point в |
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| Divide segment B in half by point b1 |
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| Auxiliary points for constructing the sleeve | From point b1 we restore the perpendicular 1 cm and put point b2 |
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| Divide the segment O1 in half by point b3 | ||||
| From point B3 we descend by 1 cm and denote it by point b4. We connect the dots of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 3 | ||||
| Sleeve width and low | From point D1 we put off to the right 48: 3 = 16 cm and put point D2. From point D1 to the left, set aside a segment equal to D1 D2, i.e. 16 cm, and set point D3 |
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| Bottom hem | From point D2 downwards we measure 2.5 cm for hemming the bottom of the sleeve and put a point d, from which we move to the right by 1 cm. We connect point D2 with point d1 We decorate the other side of the sleeve in the same way. |
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The layout of the jersey patterns on the fabric for cutting is shown in Fig. 4; fabric consumption 2 m 50 cm with a width of 80 cm.
Pattern details:
1. Backrest
2. Before
3. Sleeve
4. Upper bar
5. Bottom plank
6. Collar
Cutting and sewing
To cut the blouse, the pattern is placed on a double folded fabric (Fig. 4). Cut out exactly according to the pattern, without seam allowance. Add 0.75 cm to the neckline. The slit for the fastener is made on the left side of the front of the shirt, 3 cm from the front along the neckline. The length of the cut is 28-30 cm.
Sewing blouses begins with sealing the lower and upper chest straps. To seal the lower plank to the wrong side of the left edge of the cut in the front, the lower plank is applied with the front side with the edges flush, the bottom of the plank is folded by 0.5 cm, laying it at the level of the cut in the front. The plank folded together and the edge of the cut are marked and grinded on the machine from top to end along the plank with a seam 0.5 cm wide.The plank is unscrewed, bent over it, measure 2 cm from the stitch seam.The cut edge of the plank is folded by 0.75 cm and, closing stitch seam, attach with a seam 0.2 cm wide from the edge. The width of the finished bottom bar is 2.5-3 cm.
Sealing the top bar. To the wrong side of the right edge of the cut in front, the upper bar is applied with the front side. The plank for embedding the cape should be attached below the end of the cut by 5 cm and above the neck by 3 cm. The plank and the edge of the cut, folded together, are attached on the machine with a seam 0.5 cm wide. , 5 cm. The second cut edge of the plank is folded 1 cm and attached to the front side of the front with a line 0.5 cm wide from the edge, covering the first seam of the placket stitching. The free edge of the plank (lobe fold) is also sewn with a seam 0.5 cm wide. The width of the finished plank is 4 cm. The plank is closed at the bottom, in the middle with a toe (corner), the edges of which are swept out and the upper plank is applied to the lower one, covering the last gulnostgo. The toe is marked and attached on the machine with two transverse lines to secure the cut: the first is 4 cm from the corner of the cape, the second is 0.5 cm higher than the first. Below the transverse lines, the cape is also attached with two lines: the first is 0.2 cm from the edge, the second is 0.3 cm from the first.
Stitching and sewing of shoulder seams. The right shoulder seam of the back is folded with the right shoulder seam in front of the wrong side inward, and the back is released 1 cm and swept away. The released edge of the back is folded in front, closing the shoulder seam of the front by 0.5 cm, and grinded on the machine along the front from the armhole to the neck with a seam 0.5 cm wide.Then the seam is straightened, folded to the front and back from the edge of the fold by 0.2 cm, tune from the armhole to the neckline. The left shoulder seam is grinded and stitched in the same way, only the stitch from the neckline to the armhole. After stitching the shoulder seams, both strips in the neck are cut at the level of the neck recess.
Collar blank. The collar consists of three layers: top, bottom and a padding between them. The pad is inserted into the collar for greater stability. From coarser and denser fabrics, for example, linen, canvas, embroidered collars are made without lining.
When the collar is stitched, three layers are folded in the following order: the top layer of the collar is placed face up, the bottom layer is placed on it, face down, and a gasket is placed on top. All three layers should be folded evenly, grind them 0.5 cm away from the edge. The stitching starts from the lower corner of the left side and ends with the lower corner of the right side. The collar is turned onto the front side, the seams are straightened, aligning especially carefully at the corners so that the bottom layer does not pass over to the collar face, then it is washed from three sides along the front side of the collar.
A collar is applied to the neck of the blouse face to face together with the gasket and, applying it along the neck, it is planted along oblique cuts. Starting from the bottom placket, the collar together with the lining is stitched 0.75 cm away from the edge. Stitching is done to the right edge of the collar. To prevent the top layer of the collar from getting into the stitching, it must be turned off. The seam of the collar stitches is covered with the top layer of the collar, the edge of which is folded inward, swept and stitched on the front side with a seam 0.2 cm wide from the edge and 0.3 cm from the line.
Set-in and stitching of sleeves. The sleeve is sewn into the open armhole with a sewing seam. On the front side of the armholes, the sleeve is placed face down and marked so that the cut edge of the sleeve is released 1 cm from the edge of the armhole. The released edge is folded over the armhole by 0.75 cm and attached on the machine with a seam 0.5 cm wide. Distortions and wrinkles are not allowed. The seam of the sleeve set-in is straightened, put on the armhole and the sleeve is sewn 0.2 cm from the edge of the fold.
Stitching and sewing of side and sleeve seams... The side and sleeve seams are grinded with a seam seam.
Hem at the bottom of the sleeve. After the side and sleeve seams have been sewn, the bottom of the sleeve is folded by 2 cm. Then the cut edge is folded inward by 0.5 cm and attached on the machine with a seam 0.25 cm wide from the edge of the fold.
Hemming the bottom of the blouse. Bottom blouses folded in the same way as the bottom of the sleeve. You cannot pull the hem of the bottom, as the hem will turn out to be skewed and wrinkled. During sewing, the hem of the bottom is held and aligned in front of the needles.
ABOUT... Buttonholes are overcast by hand. To determine the location of the loops, the chest strap from the top to the crossed stitches of the bottom is folded into three equal parts. At the border of the first bend, make the first mark with chalk, at the border of the second - the second. Two loops are cut along the chalk marks along the plank and in the middle of its width. The size of the buttonholes must match the size of the buttons
MEN'S LOWER SHIRT WITH OPEN GATE
(size 48)
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| Rice. 5 Men's undershirt | Rice. 6. Pattern of men's undershirt | Rice. 7. Pattern of men's undershirt |
Men's undershirt with an open collar, or lower, has a yoke, consisting of two parts, two patch cuffs and two chest straps. The back of the lower shirt is widened; to the middle of the front, it is added to the fold.
To build a drawing, you need to REMOVE 5 measurements (in cm):
Neck circumference (0/71) - 19.5
Chest circumference (OG) - 48
sleeve length (DR) - b5
shoulder length (DP-16
Shirts length (Di) -8o
Drawing construction table Sewing bottom shirt with an open collar
Build a Right Angle with apex at point A
OPENING AND SEWING
The undershirt is made of white cotton fabric (chiffon, linen, etc.). The trim of the collar and cuffs (cuffs) can be made of colored percale, marshmallow or embellished with embroidery.
The layout of the patterns on the fabric is performed in the same order as for the shirt. The only difference is that here they add 6 cm to the back for the assembly
and to the shelf 3 cm per fold.
First of all, the wedges are sewn to the sleeves with a seam, then the cuffs are sewn.
Stitching cuffs (cuffs)... The cuff is applied facing the wrong side of the sleeve, stitching 0.5 cm from the edge. After stitching, the cuff is tipped onto the front side of the sleeve, its upper edge is folded by 0.5 cm and stitched 0.2 cm from the folded edge.
Stitching and stitching of chest straps. The cut out chest straps are swept and attached to the notch of the incision. First, they are attached with their face to the wrong side of the right side of the shirt, then they are turned to the front side, overturned with a strap so that the bottom layer is not visible, and they are swept along the bend. The cut edge of the right back is folded in by 0.5 cm, stitched and stitched 0.2 cm from the folded edge, keeping the same width throughout the plank. The left chest strap is processed in the same way. The bottom of the left plank is closed with a toe; moreover, bending the edge of the cape, it is necessary to ensure that the corners of the cape are exactly in the middle of the plank. At the end of the incision, an incision is made on the left side along the transverse thread so that the left bar can freely lie on the right. On the basis, the extra width of the material is obtained, which is laid in an even fold under the cape of the left plank. The left plank is placed over the right plank, covering it completely. The cape is sewn in a circle 0.2 cm wide from the edge of its hem. The cape of the left plank is sewn with two more transverse lines: the first is at a distance of 4 cm from the corner of the cape, the second is 0.5 cm higher than the first.
Stitching of the yoke to the back. The lower part of the yokes is swept and sewn to the upper cut of the shirt, facing the wrong side. Then the upper part of the yoke is folded with the front sides with the base and the lower yoke - the collar and shoulder seams of the shirt, they are swept, starting from the left shoulder to the right, and stitched along the shoulder cut, the throat notch and the other shoulder (from the right to the left). It is carefully drained around the slats and the yoke is twisted to the front side, the corners are straightened and again drained along the top of the shoulder and neckline. Then the bottom of the upper yoke is folded up by 0.5 cm, closing the seam of the lower yoke stitching, stitching along the top by 0.1 cm from the folded edge.
The sleeve is sewn in the same way as in the shirt, with a seam. The stitching and sewing of the side seams is also performed with a seam seam (as in the case of the blouse) up to the notch of the side slots, which are sealed with gussets. The bottom of the shirt is sewn with a hemming seam of 0.5 cm.