Exfoliation is a deep cleansing and one of the ways to keep the skin well-groomed and youthful. Exfoliant, what is it

The desire of every woman is to preserve the beauty and youth of the skin. If you carefully look after her and know some of the structural features, then you can stay young and beautiful for a long time. The exfoliant is known for its anti-aging properties. What is it and how does it work?

Exfoliation is peeling, in other words, and exfoliants are substances that make up a cosmetic product that help exfoliate the top layer of the skin. Thanks to them, the skin of the face becomes renewed and radiant. Today the cosmetic market offers one or another product that contains an exfoliant. What could it be? Scrubs that can be used at home help mechanically exfoliate the dead cells of the upper layer of the skin. As a rule, they contain various abrasive substances. When the scrub is applied to the skin, small particles remove the stratum corneum, freeing up new young cells. After such a procedure, it is imperative to apply a moisturizer. do in beauty salons. As part of such a tool, an enzymatic exfoliant. What is it? The function of such a substance is to dissolve the upper layer of facial skin cells. Enzymes react with them and destroy the outer cell membranes of old skin cells. Such exfoliants act on the upper layers of the skin. After the renewal procedure, new cells become more receptive to the components of the caring agents.

Peeling with fruit acids is a rejuvenating exfoliant. What is this procedure and what is its effectiveness? The use of fruit acids is in great demand among visitors to beauty salons. The acids dissolve the layer that binds old and newly formed skin cells together. This exfoliant penetrates deep into the layers and stimulates the production of collagen and elastin. As a result, the skin looks youthful, the face contour is tightened. The most favorable period for using this type of procedure is considered to be the cold time of the day, since young cells are sensitive not only to the components of the caring agents, but also to the sun's rays.

The skin of the body also needs renewal and maintenance of elasticity. A slender silhouette guarantees attractiveness, but first of all, the condition of the skin speaks of youth and beauty. A body exfoliant is a product that will not only exfoliate the stratum corneum, but will also help improve the structure of the skin. How does it work? Its function is to improve blood flow and resorption of fatty deposits. The abrasive particle removes dead skin cells and allows the skin to breathe. It is applied, as a rule, with massage movements, which triggers blood flow and metabolic processes in cells. Exfoliants for home use cleanse, remove the dead layer of cells, and also saturate young cells with the active substances in its composition. As a result, the skin is renewed, its structure improves.

The Yves Rocher exfoliant with various fillers is popular with consumers. Reviews speak of excellent results after application. The skin becomes soft to the touch and elastic at the same time. Add home exfoliants to your regular one and your skin will look great.

Radiation. Make sure your sunscreen contains one of these elements: avobenzone(it may also be called Parsol 1789 or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) titanium dioxide or zinc oxide... Generally, Paula Begun recommends using sunscreen 360 days a year, regardless of the weather (cloudy-not cloudy)... This will help keep your skin youthful for as long as possible!

A small preface... Many people do not quite understand correctly what is behind the word "exfoliation" and think that the skin will really start to peel off, etc. In fact, this is not at all the case if the exfoliant is selected correctly. The essence of the exfoliant is to gradually remove the top dead skin cells. At the same time, the skin becomes clear, silky, and its appearance is significantly improved.

Every skin type can benefit from using exfoliants (exfoliators) with an AHA or BHA. Probably no other type of daily skin care can have such a direct effect as gently exfoliating the skin with exfoliants. While there are several ways to exfoliate the skin, the most effective and well-researched methods today are alpha hydroxy acid (abbreviated as AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (abbreviated BHA).

There is only one beta-hydroxy acid - this is salicylic acid, and there are several alpha-hydroxy acids.

The five main alpha hydroxy acids used in cosmetics are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid. The most widely and effectively used are glycolic and lactic acids. They are both skin-penetrating, and their effects and benefits for the skin are best studied.

The main difference between AHA and BHA is that AHAs are water soluble, while BHAs are fat soluble. This unique property of BHA allows it to penetrate the pores through the sebum layer and exfoliate cells that have accumulated inside the sebaceous glands and clogging the pores. BHA is best used to combat blackheads and blemishes, a AHAs are more suitable for treating photodamaged (age spots), thickened, dry skin without problems(source: Global Cosmetic Industry, November 2000, pages 56-57).

AHA and BHA "rip" off the top layer of dead skin cells, releasing healthier cells to the surface. Removing dead skin cells, photodamaged, dry and / or thickened skin improves its texture and color, removes clogged pores and increases the absorption of moisturizers. Several studies also show that AHAs Promote Collagen Production(sources: Experimental Dermatology, April 2003, (Supplemental), pages 57-63 and Dermatologic Surgery, May 2001, page 429.)

Since AHA and BHA are chemical processes, they can penetrate the skin and perform better than cosmetic scrubs that work only on the surface. In addition, when using AHA and BHA, there is no danger that a layer thicker than necessary will be removed. Technically, acids work at a rate of decline, meaning AHA and BHA will only exfoliate dead and damaged skin cells without affecting healthy ones. This is the main reason why there is a decrease in the effectiveness of the action when using an agent with ANA or VNA. At the beginning of the use of products with acids (when the thickened and pigmented layers of the skin go away), the results are more impressive than with their further use. This is to be expected, but it is important to note that continued use of an AHA or BHA product is essential to maintain smooth, even complexion and healthy looking skin.

The results of using a well-formulated AHA or BHA can be seen almost immediately, or at least after a few days of use.

What happens to the skin when using exfoliants? ( )

Most users of Paula Runner cosmetics are well aware of the importance of regular exfoliation with the help of (this means having the correct pH value). But what actually happens when we apply an exfoliator? It depends on which exfoliation method you are using! Generally speaking, the concept is that the top dead layer of normal skin (called the “corneum” layer) regularly dies off and “falls off” (thousands upon thousands of skin cells every few minutes). This process is related to the physiology of the skin (how skin cells function and grow). New skin cells form in the lower layers of the skin (in the basal layer) and then move to the surface, changing shape along the way, and eventually die, forming the outer protective layer of the skin. These dead skin cells on the surface eventually die off and "fall off", while other cells from the lower layers are sent to the surface and expelled, creating a new "dead" layer of skin each time.

When we are young this process happens very quickly, in children it happens about once a week. As we get older, the rate of skin cell renewal changes. In adolescents, and until about 20 years of age, the skin renewal cycle occurs approximately every three weeks, and then slows down, as with age, this rate depends on the condition of the skin (sun damage, lack of estrogen). Sun damage and menopause reduce the ability of skin cells to reproduce in a healthy, normal way. Sun protection, as well as a variety of hormone therapy options, skin care using products with antioxidants and communication ingredients, or products containing retinoid such as tretinoin or many others, all of which can help improve the reproduction of skin cells.

It is also important to know that sun damage, loss of estrogen, dry or oily skin, and conditions such as psoriasis or rosacea can negatively affect the natural exfoliation process. When normal exfoliation does not occur, the skin may become rough, thickened, discolored, and more wrinkled. Various forms of exfoliation (exfoliation) help remove the enlarged outer layers of the skin, and reveal a healthier and more youthful appearance. Well-formulated alpha hydroxy acid (AHA ingredients will be glycolic acid, lactic acid, or gluconoalactone on the label) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA salicylic acid is the only ingredient in BHA) most effectively help the skin to cope with this important function. Although salicylic acid is the only BHA option, there are a number of different AHAs. The five main types of AHAs that are used in leather products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric acids. Of these, glycolic and lactic acids are the most effective and commonly used. Both of them have the ability to penetrate the skin, and on top of that, they have carried out the most extensive scientific studies confirming their effectiveness for the skin.

AHA and BHA are available in several cosmetic brands, including the line " Paulas "s Choice"Using these products on a regular basis (which may mean once or twice a day for some, and every day or twice a week for others) will dramatically improve the appearance of your skin, not to mention its healthy functioning.

What happens when we help the outer layer of the skin to function properly? Your face will really look younger! The best analogy we can think of is comparing it to the heels of your feet. Before you did your pedicure and removed the built-up dead layers of skin on your heels, the skin there looked dry, rough, and also with pronounced lines. Once this layer is peeled off, and it can be removed quite aggressively without damaging anything, your heels look much better. Plus, the skin absorbs the moisturizer better after that because the surface is not clogged with dead cells, and voila! - you got "younger" looking heels. This does not mean that we need to be so aggressive, but exfoliating the skin of the face will bring the same effect, it just needs to be softer than for the heels.

Improving skin texture and smoothing its surface are not only the benefits we achieve with AHA or BHA. Not only do they make the skin softer and better looking, but quite a few studies have shown that they provide protection against UV damage (if you regularly use a well-formulated sunscreen), visibly improve the structure of the skin and its functions of its self-healing, and also stimulate collagen production (Sources: Molecular Carcinogenesis, July 2001, pages 152-160; Cancer Letters, December 2002, pages 125-135; Experimental Dermatology, January 2005, pages 34-40; Experimental Dermatology, April 2003, Supplemental, pages 57-63 and Dermatologic Surgery, May 2001, page 429.)

Those who are struggling with acne (pimples) need to know that exfoliating the skin can also "open up" closed pores, removing dead skin cells from blocking them. As a result, the sebum will be able to come to the surface normally, and this will help reduce the appearance of acne and blackheads, as well as allow antibacterial components to penetrate the pores where bacteria that cause acne lurk.

(Sources of this information: Archives of Dermatologic Research, April 2008, pages Supplemental S31-S38; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 59-65; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, May 2006, pages 283-289; Food and Chemical Toxicology. November 1999, pages 1105-1111; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, September 1996, pages 388-391; Journal of Cosmetic Science, March-April 2006, pages 203-204; and European Journal of Dermatology, March-April 2002. pages 154-156).

How about using AHA and BHA scrubs? ( )

Using a well-formulated AHA or BHA product is much preferable to using a scrub. Because AHAs and BHAs work through chemical processes, they can penetrate the skin for better results than cosmetic scrubs that work only on the skin's surface. It is also important that the AHA and BHA will not "peel" more skin than necessary. Technically speaking, AHAs and BHAs work in such a way that they only remove dead cells and leave healthy skin. This is why you will see faster and more impressive results at the beginning of use (as soon as the thickened layer of skin is removed) than with continued use. This is to be expected, but it is important to note that continued use of AHA or BHA is required in order to keep skin smooth, toned and healthy looking.

How to choose the right exfoliant? ( )

The main difference between AHA and BHA is that AHAs are water soluble and BHAs are fat soluble. This unique property of BHA allows it to penetrate the sebum in the pores and remove accumulated dead skin cells that can clog the pores. BHAs are best for acne and acne (pimples) problems, while AHAs are best for sun damaged skin i.e. when the skin is thickened, dry skin, and has age spots. (Source: Global Cosmetic Industry, November 2000, pages 56-57).

Almost immediate results can be expected from regular AHA or BHA use, which includes improved skin texture and color, "opening" of pores, and improved absorption of moisturizers. Both AHA and BHA work on the top layer of skin to help improve the appearance of sun damaged, dry and / or thickened skin. As a result of sun damage, the top layer of the skin becomes thicker, rough and dull. (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, May 17, 2008; International Journal Cosmetic Science, February 2005, pages 17-34; Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404-409; Dermatologic Surgery, May 1998, pages 573-577 ).

AHAs work best at a concentration of 5% to 10% at pH 3 to 4, and their effectiveness decreases when the pH is above 4.5. BHA works best at a concentration of 1% to 2%, the optimal pH is 3, and when it is above 4, the effectiveness of BHA decreases. Both AHA and BHA become ineffective as the pH of the product rises and the concentration decreases (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, October 2001, pages 15-18).

If the cosmetics industry (at least most manufacturers) does not provide the desired concentration and pH level for BHA or AHA products, how can you tell if a product will provide effective or any degree of exfoliation? This can only be done if you buy cosmetics with a pH determiner, and this is how Paula Begun evaluates exfoliants. In general, one should be guided by the following rule: AHA should be listed in the second or third position in the list of ingredients - most likely, the concentration of AHA in such a product is 5% or more. With regard to salicylic acid, since a concentration of 0.5% to 2% is required, it can be listed in the second half of the ingredient list.

Interestingly, despite the pH level, AHAs provide additional benefits to the skin by helping to retain water in the skin while providing exfoliation. This effect is caused by the way acids act on skin cells, providing them with additional protection. AHAs can also stimulate the production of ceramides in the skin, which helps to keep the skin hydrated and healthy (Source: Dry Skin and Moisturizers Chemistry and Function, edited by Marie Loden and Howard Maibach, 2000, page 237).

Although BHA penetrates deeper into pores than AHA, it is less irritating to the skin. This is due to the BHA's connection to aspirin. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) has anti-inflammatory properties, while BHA (salicylic acid), a derivative of aspirin, retains some of its anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin.

AHA and BHA products can definitely make skin smoother, reduce photodamage, even out skin tone, improve skin texture, fight clogged pores and give skin firmness and elasticity (by increasing the number of healthier cells on the surface). Unfortunately, acids have no residual effect: after stopping their use, the skin returns to its original state.

Don't confuse them with AHA! ()

Several ingredients have a name that resembles an AHA, including sugarcane extract, blended fruit acids, fruit, milk, and citrus extracts. Seeing less technical names, one might think that the product contains more natural AHAs, but this is a misconception. Although glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane and lactic acid is derived from milk, this does not mean that sugarcane or milk extract are glycolic and lactic acids, respectively, although they have the moisture-holding properties of these acids, just as salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties. their "relative" - ​​aspirin.

If glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, or citric acids are not listed on the ingredients list, it is impossible to determine what the product is as a result. I advise you to be very suspicious of products that, according to the annotation, include fruit acids, but instead contain a number of ingredients with a similar name.

Don't confuse them with VNA! ()

Manufacturers proudly claiming to have a natural source of salicylic acid (BHA) usually add willow bark. Willow bark contains salicin, a substance that, when ingested, turns into salicylic acid during digestion. This means that the process of obtaining salicylic acid from the salicin contained in willow bark requires the presence of enzymes. The likelihood that willow bark in those scanty amounts used in cosmetics can have an effect on the skin similar to salicylic acid is zero. However, willow bark can undoubtedly have some anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, since it retains the properties of aspirin in its present form.

Should you use products with a high AHA content? ()

Removing the top layer of the skin can go too far, and many dermatologists-cosmetologists and researchers are concerned that increased irritation and exfoliation with alpha hydroxy acids at elevated concentrations (over 10%) may be too much of a burden on the skin. Since there is no evidence that higher concentrations are beneficial for the skin, excellent results can be achieved without unwanted side effects. In addition, good results from higher concentrations of AHAs may in fact represent swelling and edema caused by them. They make wrinkles less visible and skin smoother, but this is not the best option for long-term skin health, given the increased persistent skin irritation.

Can you use exfoliants too often? ()

How about frequent use of exfoliants? Does this interfere with the reproduction of new cells? Some are interested and ask about the Hayflick limit » ... The Hayflick limit is a phenomenon that explains how many times skin cells will be reproduced. (Reference: Hayflick Limit or Limit) Hayflicklimit) - the border of division of somatic cells, named after its discoverer Leonard Hayflick. In 1965, Hayflick observed how human cells dividing in cell culture die after about 50 divisions and show signs of aging when approaching this border.)

But, this yield point only has to do with what happens. in the lower layer of the skin where skin cells are produced (basal layer). What happens on the surface as a result of exfoliation does not affect how many times new skin cells are created. Exfoliation works strictly on the surface, removing the layer of dead cells of the surface layer of the skin, and does not reach the lower layers of the skin, where new cells are reproduced. Removing the top layers of skin does not cause new skin cells to emerge; these two functions are not related in any way. Therefore, you do not need to worry about damaging new cells by using surface exfoliants. If you want to be careful, avoid exfoliants that are too strong or too abrasive, as irritation and inflammation can harm the skin more than it can help it, but even this does not affect cell regeneration or accelerate the Hayflick limit.

You may have heard or read that some cosmetics companies are calling for you to stop using skin exfoliants. The rationale is that by doing so, you are supposedly keeping the cells of your epidermis longer, which contributes to a younger-looking skin. The truth is, they don't know what they are talking about. There is no reason to preserve the cells of the outer layer of our epidermis, they die and flake off all the time! Regular exfoliation simply helps them do it in a healthier way. This statement is confusing, but what they really mean is that the basal layer of the skin is preserved, where new skin cells are reproduced. However, this is a genetic phenomenon and is not related in any way to the way the surface of the skin functions. There are many studies showing that exfoliation is incredibly beneficial for the skin. There is even research indicating that glycolic acid may reduce the incidence of skin cancer.

Exfoliation is one of the key components of your skin's health and appearance. Exfoliation is essential for most skin types and is basic along with a mild cleanser, sunscreen, and antioxidants and communication ingredients! (Resources: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2008, pages 175-182; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2006, pages 246-253; Phytotherapy Research, November 2006, pages 921-934; Aesthetic and Plastic Surgery, May-June 2006 , pages 356-362; Journal of Dermatology, January 2006, pages: 16-22; Cosmetic Science, September-October 2002, pages 269-282; Molecular Carcinogenesis, July 2001, pages: 152-160; and British Journal of Dermatology. February 2001, pages 267-273.)

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA) ()

Cosmetic scientists are constantly debating how to find an effective form of AHA or an additional ingredient that can enhance the effects of acids and reduce irritation caused by them. NeoStrata believes that a type of polyhydroxy acid such as gluconolactone meets both criteria: it is supposedly as effective as AHA, but less irritating to the skin.

Gluconolactone (PHA) works in a similar way to AHA. The significant difference between the two is the larger molecular structure of gluconolactone, which prevents its penetration into the skin, which reduces irritation on some types of skin. Is it preferable to your skin over AHA? Research data shows that AHA and PHA work in the same way, however, AHA improves the appearance of the skin significantly, while PHA is less irritating to the skin.

Retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A, Differin and Tazorac) ( )

Retinoids are not exfoliants because many think they have an exfoliating effect. Retinoids are a generic term for a wide range of ingredients derived from vitamin A. Prescription retinoids for topical use are important for the skin as they positively influence cell formation in the dermis.

If your skin is showing signs of photoaging, dry, wrinkled or problematic, you need to know the names of the following drugs: Retin-A, Renova, Differin, Avita and Tazorac. They all contain various retinoids. The active ingredient in Retin-A, Avita and Renova is tretinoin. Differin uses adapalene and Tazorac uses tazorotene. Renova and Tazorac are FDA-approved for the treatment of wrinkles. (Resources: Dermatologic Surgery, June 2004, pages 864-866; Archives of Dermatology, November 2002, pages 1486-1493; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, October 2001, pages 613-618; and www.fda.gov).

Exfoliants AHA and BHA primarily act on the surface of the skin (epidermis) and the inner surface of the pores, exfoliating and dissolving the layers of skin cells. Retinoids, on the other hand, affect the deeper layer of the skin (dermis), where new skin cells are formed. Retinoids “communicate” with skin cells during their formation, resulting in the development of normal cells, rather than photodamaged or genetically deformed cells.

Why is there confusion about the effect of retinoids on skin? It is mainly caused by the fact that products containing retinoids can cause irritation and inflammation, as a result of which the skin dries and begins to flake off. Peeling and dryness is not exfoliation, it is an unwanted and unhealthy result. If the skin constantly dries and flakes from the use of retinoids, you should stop using retinoids or reduce the frequency of their use.

Despite the significant benefits of retinoids, retinoids should not be expected to smooth wrinkles as they are not anti-wrinkle treatments. However, if the newly formed cells are healthier and more regular in shape, the skin surface will be smoother, the movement of cells in the skin will improve, the outer protective layer of the skin will gain integrity, the skin's self-healing ability will increase, etc. In essence, the skin will start to work and look like (to some extent) how it did and looked before sun damage.

Despite the positive results, the use of retinoids will be pointless and the skin will be more vulnerable to damage if sunscreen is not used. No anti-wrinkle cream in the world, including those approved by the FDA, will help unless you use an effective sunscreen; without it, existing skin damage will only worsen.

What retinoids, AHAs and BHAs have in common is that when they are removed, the skin will return to its original state. These products do not lead to permanent changes in the condition of the skin. Smoothing of the skin takes place only during the period of use of such funds. However, their combination has long been a powerful weapon in the fight against wrinkles and acne.

How about the harmful effects of the sun? ( )

Some studies have shown that there is hazard from UVB rays after using funds with AHA. This makes sense given that AHAs remove the top layer of sun-damaged skin, leaving skin more vulnerable to UVB rays. A thickened, damaged layer of dead skin cells built up over several years without the use of sunscreen protects slightly from the sun. When you remove the top damaged layer with exfoliants, your skin returns to the state it was in when you were younger and has not yet had photodamage. This is what makes the skin look better, but also creates the danger of new sensitivity to the sun. Of course, this sensitivity is easily preventable by using a product with a lower concentration of AHA (10% or less), and most importantly, using sunscreen. Research shows AHAs are safe at 4% to 8% concentration with a pH of 3 to 4 (Resource: Journal of Cosmetic Science, November / December 2000, pages 343-349). As mentioned above, there are studies showing that glycolic acid, salicylic acid, actually protects skin from sun damage. However, regardless of research on AHAs and BHAs, it is important that you use a sunscreen every day, with an SPF of at least 15, and that includes avobenzone (another name for this ingredient: Parsol 1789, the chemical name for butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), titanium dioxide ( titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or Mexoryl SX to protect skin from UVA rays. Sun protection is a must every day of the year, along with other aspects of daily skin care.

Video - Paula Runner, "Exfoliating Reveals Smoother Skin"

BIOSEA Perfection Face Exfoliating Cream. When I first heard the name, for a long time I could not understand what it is, and what it is "eaten" with. It turned out that this is the same scrub, or peeling (as you like). In its composition, it contains delicate small particles of silicic acid. I also bought this cream from the premium series for my mother as a gift. And then, of course, I tested it on myself.

Here is a 75 ml tube. The shelf life after opening is 6 months. The lid is usually unscrewed.

I walked in a box with a Russian translation.

With an international ecolabel badge.

Mode of application:

Massage the exfoliant in circular motions once or twice a week onto damp face and neck, then rinse off with plain water.
Avoid the eye area and redness.

Together with the box there was an insert, which contains a lot of useful information (description, application, useful properties, how to apply correctly on the face, etc.)

This is how it looks on the hand. Mineral particles of silicic acid are visible.

The composition is 100% approved by the Ecogolic.ru service. It contains a whole storehouse of only useful substances. The extract of plant stem cells from the sea krithmum activates the processes of cell renewal, evens out microrelief, stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, slowing down the aging process. It prevents the appearance of hyperpigmentation, helps to achieve a more even skin tone, has antioxidant and regenerating properties. Its main advantage is the enhancement of the lifting effect. For those who are interested, on my channel you can watch a video using this tool in combination with other tools called "French system of deep cleaning of the face".

In modern cosmetology, you can find many ways that will help rid the delicate skin of the face from dead cells. One of these methods is a remedy under an interesting word - exfoliant. What is this remedy, and how it cleans the skin of old cells, this article will tell.

Features of the tool

Exfoliant is a means, or directly a substance, that helps to carry out the procedure. Simply put, exophliant are substances that cleanse pores and renew the skin by removing dead cells from it.

Most often, the word exfoliant means a cosmetic product based on fruit acid. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that when applied, it acts on problem areas of the skin, minimally touching healthy tissues. The exfoliant does not leave traces, does not damage the integrity of the skin, because the active substances of such funds seem to dissolve the upper dead layer of the skin.

For these purposes, alpha-hydroxy acids can be used, you can often find its abbreviation - AHA, or beta-hydroxy acids - BHA can act as a chemical exfoliant. The first option includes water-soluble acids, and the second, fat-soluble acid.

If we regard the exfoliant as a substance, then it happens:

• Mechanical - contains abrasive substances, for example, salt, coffee, granules, sugar, shells of seeds of berries and fruits, and others. The mechanical exfoliant comes in the form of scrubs. Acts by mechanical abrasion of dead skin;
• Chemical - such exfoliants usually include fruit acids;
• An acid-free exfoliant. This variety is understood to mean various plant extracts and cereal components. Acts very gently and carefully, therefore it is suitable for mature skin;
• Enzyme is a group of enzymes or enzymes in another way.

The most popular are mechanical exfoliants in the form of scrubs and chemical exfoliants containing various acids.

But since most often there are products based on fruit acids as an exfoliant, we will consider this option in more detail.

Fruit acid exfoliants are available as:

• Cleansers - designed for daily cleansing of the skin. They do not bring a quick effect, because the concentration of active substances in them is very low. This is due to the fact that when washing your face, the product can get into your eyes.
• Creams are very well absorbed and act on the problem from the inside.
• Lotions - Often used for oily skin.
• As . Unlike a scrub, where the action occurs due to a mechanical exfolianate that strongly traumatizes delicate skin, the acid acts more gently, but at the same time and effectively.

The purpose of using exfoliants includes:

• Uneven skin structure;
• Loose and dull skin;
• Small age-related changes;
• Problem skin;

How does it affect the skin

When exposed to the skin with a chemical exfoliant, the process of destruction of lipid bonds between old and new cells occurs, due to which dead cells are removed. That is why this type of exphalant is more popular than the mechanical one, in which both dead and healthy tissues are damaged.

The exfoliant works deep in the tissues, due to which:

• Cell regeneration processes are stimulated and blood circulation is normalized;
• The production of collagen and elastin is enhanced;
• The work of the sebaceous glands returns to normal;
• The skin is moisturized, because the renewed cells retain moisture much better than the dead ones;
• Metabolic processes improve, because after the removal of dead tissue, the skin begins to breathe better;
• The aging process slows down, and the skin is smoothed.

It is forbidden to use exfoliants with fruit acids on the skin with inflamed and infectious rashes, wounds and injuries. It is also not recommended to use such a cosmetic product on tanned skin, with exacerbation of dermatological diseases (dermatitis, eczema, and others) and with hypersensitivity to the components of the drug.

What is included

Since the most popular exfoliants are fruit acids, most of these products include AHA and BHA acids.

ANA acid, in turn, is subdivided into several others:

• Glycolic acid - found in cane sugar and green grapes, it works well with pigmentation;
• Dairy - found in fermented milk products, apples, tomatoes. Provides hydration and exfoliation of the skin;
• Apple - found in most fruits, but especially in apples. Eliminates dead cells from the skin, enhances cell metabolism;
• Wine - extracted from old wine, grapes. Relieves the skin from dead cells, pigmentation, providing a pronounced moisturizing effect;
• - found in citrus fruits. Exfoliates, whitens the skin and also has antioxidant and antiseptic properties.

By BHA acid is meant salicylic acid. It has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic properties, and also normalizes the work of the sebaceous glands. That is why this exfoliant is added to various acne products.

The composition can contain either 1 acid or their combination.

It is important to be able to read the composition, so to achieve the desired effect, the content of AHA acids should be about 5-10% at a pH level of the skin from 3 to 5. Salicylic acid should be about 1-2% if the pH level is 3.

If you use a higher concentration, then it can lead to negative consequences. First, the skin tone increases, which is associated with allergic edema, and then drops sharply, giving the skin a tired and sluggish look. In the worst case, the high concentration of acids can cause burns.

As part of products with a chemical exfoliant, you may not find their exact concentration, so it is important to pay attention to where the substance stands among all the components. ANA acids should be 3 or 4 on the ingredient list, with salicylic acid somewhere in the middle.

For the product to have the desired effect, it is important to choose the right chemical exfoliant.

The salicylic acid product is suitable for the care of problem and oily skin. Choosing a salicylic acid exfoliant for rough skin may reduce its effectiveness. If you take such a product for the care of sensitive and irritated skin, then there is a risk of getting burns.

Exfoliants containing AHA acids are suitable for dry, sensitive skin with pigmentation.

Application in practice

Products with AHA acids in the composition, especially in the form of peels and masks, are limited to 1 to 2 applications per week. This is necessary in order not to overload the skin with fruit acids.

Although some exfoliants in the form of creams, gels and lotions and serums with a low concentration of acids can be applied daily. Usually, the manufacturer indicates information on the frequency of use on the packaging.

The product is used after cleansing the skin with micellar water, tonic or other similar cosmetic product. During use, you may experience discomfort, such as a burning sensation, tingling, which soon disappears.

If such symptoms recur, then it is necessary to consult with a specialist, who may give recommendations to choose a remedy with a lower percentage of acid.

The product is applied to the skin with movements. The exposure time on the skin is indicated by the manufacturer. If you endure less, then you may not get the desired effect, if more, you can cause burns. Some products do not require rinsing, but usually there is a small concentration of active substances in this composition.

If, after using the exfolianate in the form of a cream, it is planned to use decorative cosmetics, then you must wait until the product is completely absorbed.

As exfoliants exfoliate dead skin, it becomes more sensitive to the sun's rays. Therefore, it is recommended to use sunscreen before going outside. Thus, you can reduce the risk of pigmentation, and maintain the effect of the product.

Before using any product containing acids, an allergy test must be performed. To do this, a little product is applied to the inner bend of the elbow and the result is evaluated.

Exophalint, be it mechanical in the form of scrubs or chemical with the addition of fruit acids, when used correctly, can achieve incredible results. The skin becomes really smooth, free of unnecessary cells. The main thing is to follow the instructions for using the product and not use exfolinates if there are contraindications.

There are several types of cosmetic products for deep cleansing (exfoliation of the upper layer) of the skin. The process of exfoliating the top layer of the skin is called . Peeling can be chemical or mechanical. There are also laser and ultrasonic ones, but they are used in cosmetology.

We will consider cosmetic products such as: gommage, scrub and exfoliant(synonyms in English: exfoliating, scrub, face polish), let's figure out what is the difference between them and what means for deep cleansing of the skin you need.

Gommage

What is gommage? The name comes from the French word "gomme" - "eraser". Gommage is a special product for removing the top layer of the skin, it gently dissolves and removes dead particles. Often gommage contains a small percentage in its composition Now the term is more popular peeling roll, or just a roll.

What type of skin is gommage suitable for? Gommage is ideal for those with sensitive, aging or skin with inflamed acne.

How to use gommage? Use gommage instead of a scrub 1-2 times a week. Gommage is applied to the face and usually after 10-15 minutes, when it dries up, roll it in a circular motion together with the upper layer of the epidermis, holding the skin with the other hand so as not to stretch it. If there are pustules on the face, it is better to just wash off the cream with water. Do not forget that gommage is still a chemical peeling. Be sure to read the instructions! There are rolls that cannot be kept on the skin longer than two minutes. It should not be done on vacation when you spend many hours a day under the sun.

Scrub

What is a scrub? Scrub- a cosmetic product consisting of basics and small particles that mechanically exfoliate the top layer of the skin.

The basis of the scrub is a cream, gel or cosmetic clay, sea sand or salt, crushed shells of nuts or apricot kernels and other natural particles are added as exfoliating particles. The main function of the scrub- This is skin cleansing, small particles remove old, dead cells and impurities from the skin surface.

What type of skin is the scrub suitable for? The scrub is suitable for those with young, problem-free skin. Less scrubs: the particles, by definition, are not perfectly smooth, therefore they can cause micro-trauma to the skin and are not recommended for use with problematic, inflamed skin. If your skin is sensitive, then use a scrub that contains abrasive particles. not natural origin, for example, smooth plastic balls, they are more suitable for problem and irritated skin, because do not injure the skin of the face.

How to use the scrub? Apply the scrub to moisturized skin, massage and rinse with water. Use the scrub no more than 2 times a week.

Exfoliant

What is an exfoliant? Exfoliant- is a cosmetic or agent in the composition of the product, causing a rapid outer layer of the epidermis. Most often, the exfoliant contains fruit acids, which effectively dissolve the top layer of the skin while stimulating the production of new skin cells.

What type of skin is the exfoliant suitable for? Suitable for all skin types except hyper irritable skin.

How to use an exfoliant? The exfoliant can be either in the mask or in the cream, carefully follow the instructions. You can use the exfoliant in the form of a mask no more than 2 times a week (if it contains fruit acids). And cream and liquid soap with fruit acids in the composition can be used daily.

Since the exfoliant is most often a chemical peel, be careful when applying it, and after using it, be sure to use products with SPF!

The best scrubs and exfoliants

• Exfoliating Scrub by CLINIQUE. Scrub with fine scrubbing particles for oily skin.
• Flawless Skin Face Polish by LAURA MERCIER. Gommage with microspheres for deep cleansing of the skin.
• Sugar Face Polish by FRESH. Sugar scrub mask for face and body.
• Modern Friction ™ Nature's Gentle Dermabrasion from ORIGINS. Exfoliator with fruit acids and scrubbing particles.
• Gentle Buffing Cream by CAUDALIE. Hommage cream with fruit acids.
• Pomegranate Deep Cleansing Scrub by KORRES.

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