Medicine today 

Stylish men's shirt without a collar: who suits and when to wear? Collars of the most informal shirts

When it comes to classic menswear, theoretical knowledge is sometimes impossible to do without.

Even if you have never worn a tailcoat in your life, have never worn a tie or bow tie, the likelihood that one day you will not only have to, but also want to do it, is quite high. In order to make the right decision at the right time, you should remember a few simple rules regarding the indispensable attributes of a man's wardrobe. Indeed, accessories and details play almost the main role in creating a man's image.

The collar is in such a dangerous proximity to the face that it can easily tell about its owner not at all what he would like. The message, which is carried by collars of different shapes, practically does not depend on fashion. So, when choosing a shirt, be careful.

Classic collar

This is the most common type of collar designed to be worn with. Almost all "business" shirts for formal occasions have this.

With a classic collar, you can wear both a tie and a bow tie.


Steve Jobs. Founder of Apple. Photo: http://nordiskmba.blogspot.com/

Slant collar

The second most popular is the "oblique" collar. It completely or almost completely opens the tie knot and also has several subspecies that differ in the width of the cutout. It is suitable not only for traditional neckties but also for bow ties.

An oblique collar (sometimes called "shark" "or French") with a "middle" neckline looks like a classic one: the difference becomes noticeable when you pay attention to the outline of the collar around the tie. An oblique collar allows you to use a tie made of dense materials and tie rather bulky knots.

Examples of oblique collars with a "standard" neckline, wider, are easy to find if you enter the name of the first politician or actor that pops into your head in any search engine. You will see hundreds of these collars in your image search results. The reversal of its corners forms an almost horizontal line. In this regard, you need to find out once and for all whether such an angle does not worsen the proportions of your face and neck.

Wide slanting collar can be sharp or rounded. Shirts with such a collar are most often made to order, so that in the circle of people who understand clothes, such a collar can inform about the delicate taste of its owner.


Mikhail Gorbachev. Photo: http://www.nakanune.ru/

Button down collar

This type of collar is typical for casual shirts - for example, check flannel, as well as for "work" shirts. It is universal, suits everyone and does not commit to anything.

The button-down collar does not require a tie.


Bill Gates. Founder of Microsoft. Photo: http://ilmuit.maniaxpc.com/

Pin collar

Unimaginable rarity and rare smartness. If you want to master it, admire shirts with such collars on the heroes of movies and gossip in Tatler magazine.


Stand collar

This collar is a strip of fabric that wraps around the neck. Sometimes it can carry small decorative elements. This is the most laconic, but at the same time the most defiant and difficult to use collar. By the way, he looks better than others with scarves and headscarves.

Now shirts with such collars are often worn with, and used to be worn with a vest (in the manner of a loose Jewish boy).


Keith Richards. Rolling Stones.

The collar, which has a rather complex design, refers to the clothes of European clergymen and to the stand-up collar: its ends adhere to the ribbon due to their connection with a special cloth buckle under the tie. The ends of the collar are fastened with buttons or buttons. Today it is considered somewhat old-fashioned.


It is better to use small tie knots with this collar.


Rod Serling. Screenwriter, actor, writer, producer

Detachable collar

Another type of collar, which is very rare and is used as an addend necessary for a tuxedo.

By the beginning of this decade, fashion had managed to break all the existing rules, but it failed to abolish them. Therefore, the collar of a man's shirt still defines the style and mood of the entire suit.



Paul Smith autumn / winter 2010-11


Alexander McQueen spring / summer 2011


Day by Day Beauty & Youth United Arrows fall / winter 2010-2011


Roberto Cavalli fall / winter 2011-2012


Roberto Cavalli spring / summer 2011

There are people I know who practice the principle of least resistance when it comes to their wardrobe. And the choice between a T-shirt and a shirt is invariably decided not in favor of the latter. The reason is banal laziness and underestimation of the advantages of your own style. The T-shirt is easier and faster to iron and there is no need to button the buttons (: - this is a fact. And often it is appropriate. However, in many cases, I think such people lose glasses when they neglect the shirt. Sooner or later a man, especially when he ceases to be a teenager, begins to understand the full power of this piece of clothing.Unfortunately, not everyone has even minimal knowledge in this area, do not understand what types of men's shirts and collars exist, how to determine correct shirt size whether you always need to refuel and much more. Let's try to fill these gaps today.

A bit of history

Interestingly, initially, a men's shirt belonged to underwear, and it was unthinkable to appear in society in one shirt. The surrounding could only observe a small part of the collar and a piece of the cuff. This state of affairs took place for quite a long time until the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries. Even in our time, you can find men of a conservative upbringing who ask a woman's permission to take off her jacket in her presence. Also, it is difficult to imagine the president of a country or other dignitary at an official reception without a jacket.

In everyday life, the shirt is often in sight, and it will not be superfluous to know more about it.

Types of men's shirts

There are two main types: classic and sports. We need to know this in order not to accidentally put on a shirt with a business suit that is not intended for this. Conversely, avoid wearing a formal top with jeans, for example. So what's the difference?

Classic

  1. The fabric is softer, the weave is thinner. Examples of fabrics that are used in production: twill, pinpoint, royal oxford - all, of course, made of cotton, no synthetics.
  2. The collar should be stiffer. This is mainly due to the fact that the shirt and tie are almost always worn together when we are talking about formal style. In order for the collar to keep its shape, use special plates that are inserted inside.
  3. More conservative colors. First of all, white is for special occasions or a strict dress code. And the second most common is blue. If you want to know more about color combinations, read the article.
  4. If there is a drawing, it is small. You rarely find a classic shirt in a large thick cage or strip, while in a sports one - very often. You can find out how to mix patterns in clothes in the article about.
  5. The hem of the formal shirt has a more curved shape.
  6. The classic shirt has no pockets at all, or there is only one. And it should be empty. No pens or mobile phones.

Sports

  1. The materials used in the production of sports shirts are slightly rougher, stronger. It can be simple oxford, chambray, flannel, denim. By the way, the latter, denim, by no means remained in the eighties, and the fashion for them has been preserved in our time. Don't be afraid to wear a denim shirt with jeans, as long as the bottom is darker. Do not forget .
  2. A much wider range of colors, and the drawings are bolder and more varied.
  3. If you see epaulettes, decorative fasteners, more pockets - this is definitely a sports-style shirt.

Types of men's shirts by cut type - fitted and loose

If you have an imperfect figure and have a stomach, I will not insist here that you devote more time to sports and moderate nutrition, although you should. Just buy a shirt with a traditional cut.

Are you the owner of a toned torso and have no problems with being overweight? Then for you men's shirt fitted... In turn, fitted shirts are divided into narrow (slim) and very narrow (extra slim). It should be noted that this division is not absolute and depends on the company - fitting in the store is necessary.

In any case, you should choose a shirt without excess material on the sides. See below for the correct size.

How the shirt should fit

Shirt sleeve length

The main two things that you should know about yourself when purchasing a shirt are the circumference of the neck and the length of the sleeve. They just need to be measured and recorded. It is on these parameters that the dimensions are based. should be such that it reaches the beginning of the thumb joint while completely covering the wrist. And even in the bent position of the arm, the wrist should not open excessively.

Collar

The golden rule applies here. One or two fingers (whichever is comfortable) should fit between the neck and the inside of the collar. However, remember (this also applies to sleeves) that the actual size of the shirt is only set after a few washes.

As for the type of collar, there are innumerable numbers, and here I will not go deep. For wearing with a tie, I would recommend one of the most optimal - semi spread.

Unlike "shark", it is more versatile: not too conservative and not trendy; suitable for most face types.

Shoulder seams

Do I need to tuck in my shirt?

If this is a classic or, the answer is obvious - it is necessary. In other cases, it is a matter of taste, image and your mood. It is quite certain that tuck in a sports shirt not necessary.

correct length of men's shirt

Another question is what should be the correct length in this case. My advice is the middle of the back pocket of the jeans. The following photo shows the wrong length:

left - too short, right - too long shirt

It is also allowed to wear a shirt outside under a sweater. Personally, I don't like these bows. Some kind of sloppy look turns out.

controversial view, what do you think?

Again, this is a matter of personal preference, and modern street fashion looks at many of these kinds of things with condescension. However, there are many successful examples:

T-shirt under the shirt

If the two menswear are paired, the shirt does not need to be buttoned. This combination looks especially good if the shirt is flannel and has a pattern in a large cage.

And one last tip for today:

It is not worth saving too much - this is my conviction. Better to buy inexpensive jeans. In my experience, the quality of the shirt is directly related to the price. And this is really the element of your appearance that plays a key role in maintaining your reputation as a person of taste.

There are even more interesting materials in our groups.

Choosing a shirt, not every man will pay attention to such a miniature detail as a collar. Meanwhile, it is he who complements the image, makes it complete and bright. In addition, it is easy to determine by the collar whether it is worth making a purchase: to do this, you just need to button the shirt with the top button. If the neck does not tighten and you feel comfortable, take it.

How to choose the right collar?

  • The invariable rule is: be sure to consider your face type as well as the length of your neck. For example, if you have a face that is too long in the shape of an oval, then a short wide collar will visually correct it without any problems.
  • A high collar is taboo for a man with a short neck, but a low stand-up collar or a flat version will look perfect.
  • If you, on the other hand, have a long neck, then a high stand-up collar is the best fit.
  • For those whose parameters can be characterized by the word "average", experiments are prohibited: you need to choose a simple collar of medium length.
  • Men with a round face and thick neck should never wear a shirt with a collar that fastens with buttons. A small turn-down collar will not work either, but a model with sharp corners is fine.
  • Keep in mind that the collar and lapel of your jacket should be approximately the same width.

Collar types

There are several main types of collars, and each one has its own unique characteristics. If you are free to navigate in them, then you can easily choose the perfect shirt.

Classic collar

Best suited for those who prefer timeless classics, regardless of the choice of wardrobe detail. Over the years, this model has undergone some changes, and now the distance from the top button to the end of the collar is 7 cm, but otherwise it is still the same.

Looks best with a double-breasted blazer and pinstripe suits.

Italian collar

This collar is a salvation for short, thin men who are not satisfied with their appearance: it visually expands the cheekbones and shoulders. Now this type of collar is very popular.

Kent

This collar can be described as a cross between the two previous types. Its main difference is sharp corners, the ends of which are directed downward. This is a versatile option that fits into any wardrobe. It looks appropriate and stylish regardless of the setting.

To make the look brighter, you can buy a plain jacquard tie for a shirt with such a collar.

Butterfly

The name of this type speaks for itself: it looks best in combination with a bow tie. It is a small stand-up collar with pointed ends that curl to the side (at a 45 degree angle).

There is also another version of it - a double butterfly collar. It consists of two layers of fabric, while the upper one is slightly smaller and opens the lower one.

Mandarin

It is a low, tight-fitting stand-up collar. A shirt with such a collar is difficult to combine with something, but in its defense it should be said that most often the mandarin collar is preferred by designers who turn to bold, unusual options.

This collar is very stiff and strict, more popular in the West than here. Its distinctive feature is a strap on a special fastener, thanks to which the ends of the collar are attracted to each other, and its position is rigidly fixed. You should not wear it with the top buttons unbuttoned and ignore the tie.

Men's shirts can be different not only in design, color and size, they differ among themselves also due to the types of collars. A shirt for men without a collar or with a stand is a very important choice, especially if you need to create or emphasize a certain style.

In addition, shirts with different types of collars are suitable for men of a particular physique and age, and this should definitely be taken into account when choosing. To find exactly your version, you need to find out more information about the collars on men's shirts of each type, which should be done without delay.

The collars of shirts are completely different. Each of them has its own characteristics and remarkable features. That is why, in order to understand what type of shirt with a collar is better to buy in one case or another, it is worth considering the characteristics of each type.

No collar

Collarless shirts for men are quite popular. At first glance, such a men's shirt resembles a turtleneck, it fits to the body. This option looks very elegant and is well suited for young, business men. This option is not worn with ties, it is suitable for men with an excellent physique.

Rack

Men's shirts with a high collar look quite elegant. Shirts with a stand-up collar are well suited for stylish, confident men. The official name of such a collar is mandarin, because this type was invented in China. A shirt with such a collar looks like a model without it, now a collar of this type is in trend.

Do you like the stand collar?

YesNo

A shirt with just such a collar is suitable for the following categories of men:

  • which have a long, fairly well-defined neck;
  • slender and sophisticated representatives of the stronger sex;
  • stylish young people who want to look a little casual.

Expert opinion

Helen Goldman

Male stylist-image maker

If a man has problems with being overweight, you should not wear shirts with such a collar, as it will make him even more bulky. It is best to choose the classic version.

Double

Double collar shirts for men are quite popular. This model of men's collar fastens with a cufflink, it has a rather complex cut. The edges of the collar can be straight, rounded or triangular, a shirt with such a collar can be worn with a tie. There are lovely double bow tie collars that pair perfectly with a tuxedo for a flawless holiday style. In addition, the upper layer is slightly higher than the lower one, which looks very interesting and very relevant.

Triple

Men's triple collar shirts are something interesting. Such layering will definitely not become an everyday option, but it cannot be completely ruled out. This collar visually widens the cheekbones and shoulders, is suitable for short men, looks stylish in combination with business clothes.

Round

Round collar shirts look pretty neat. A shirt with such a collar will allow you to create a light, interesting image for both young guys and older men. The round collar is one of the classic options, but it is not used as often as the model with pointed ends. Under it, you can wear a tie or bow tie, classic-style trousers or jeans.

Apache

Apache collared shirts are an option for real hooligans who want to slightly emphasize their casualness. This collar style completely crosses out all business conventions and allows a person to look quite modern. The collar in this style was invented by the French so that you do not have to deliberately unbutton the top buttons on your shirt. At first, this design solution was perceived ambiguously, but then it became stylish and fashionable in all countries of the world.

Collar size

The size of the collar of a men's shirt is not only important. Whether a man chooses the right option will directly depend on how stylish and successful his image will be.

In order to correctly determine the size of the collar, a man should measure the girth of the neck and add a few more centimeters to this value so that he does not press anything anywhere. But the distance between the neck and the collar should not be thicker than one finger.

How to iron correctly?

It is not enough for a man to just choose a thing of the right style and size; he also needs to know how to iron the collar correctly. In fact, everything is quite simple and you can iron the collar of a men's shirt as follows:

  • lay out the shirt on the board with the front part to the bottom;
  • slightly moisten the collar;
  • gently move from one edge of the fabric to the other, trying to capture absolutely all the folds;
  • remove bends by moving the iron from the bottom up;
  • turn the shirt over and iron the other side of the collar.

All types of collars for men's shirts can be ironed on approximately the same principle. The main thing is to set the correct temperature and mode on the iron. If you use a steam iron, then you should not additionally moisten the collar with water, because hot steam removes even the largest folds.

What to combine with?

Shirts with a short or large collar have their own principle of combination with different things. Different types of men's collars are combined with clothing from different styles, which can be seen in the following diagram:

It is quite good to combine shirts with a large collar or a small one with suits, but at the same time you need to know which tie to choose and how to tie it best.

Fashionable men's images with a shirt

With the help of shirts with different types of collars, men can create quite bright and interesting images. For example, the following combinations can be noted:

  • shirt with a classic collar, business suit, classic shoes;
  • a shirt with a stand-up collar, boots;
  • a shirt with a shark collar, and trousers in a classic color;
  • shirt with a large collar, jersey sweater, classic pants or jeans.




You can come up with many more interesting and original images, which will be complemented by a men's shirt with a stand-up collar or a model in a classic style.

Small conclusion

To choose a shirt with a stand-up collar casual or a classic, versatile option, you have to try a little. It is worth remembering that the collar can be considered one of the main elements of a men's shirt, which can decorate or spoil the image. It is necessary to consider models with several types of collars in order to understand exactly which one will be the most suitable.